A Rolling How To Turbo A 3000gt - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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The main reason to go turbo is the added power. I am going to do a short write up of the process of the easiest way to Turbocharge a non turbo 3000GT or Stealth.

Parts List:

Stock TT Injectors

Stock TT Fuel Pump

Stock TT Oil filter Housing

Stock TT Water Neck

Stock TT Down pipe

Stock TT Oil Cooler and lines

Stock TT Plenum-- 78

5.6 OHM Resistors-- 7.73-- www.partsexpress.com

Stock TT Front Motor Mount Bracket

Stock TT Transmission Bracket

Stock TT Oil Pressure Switch

Stock TT Oil Pan

Stock TT Front Precat

Stock TT Exhaust

Stock TT Intercoolers

Stock TT Intercooler piping/intake

Stock TT BOV

Solid Motor Mounts

Fuel Controller

Boost Controller

Boost Gauge

Wide Band

Stock TT Oil feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Coolant feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Turbos

Stock TT Manifold

Stock TT Air filter

Stock TT Gaskets

I wouldn't even think about taking one piece off of your car unless you have all the parts, or you have a second reliable vehicle.

The first thing I did was put the car on four jack stands and take the two front wheels off. Once the car is up off the ground you will find it 100% easier to work on as you don't have to bend down into the engine bay, and getting underneath is pretty easy. Granted a lift would be 200% better I dealt with what I was given.

So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.

I would then swap the fuel pump. You have a couple options here.
1) Use the TT stock assembly and pump and its a direct drop in.
2) Use the TT stock assembly and an aftermarket pump.
3) Use the NA stock assembly with the Stock TT pump or aftermarket pump. (this will require some modification and the use of worm clamps or hose clamps)

Once the fuel pump is in you can close the trunk as that the last time you need to go in there.

I then sprayed down all the nuts and bolts on the exhaust with PB BLASTER, (don't waste your time with anything else just shut your mouth and use PB Blaster) Spray the headers, the down pipe and the cat bolts.

Now while thats doing its job, you get to get organized. I bought Number tags and used them to mark everything I disconnected. This is where I disconnect all the wires on the transmission side of the engine. Connections start at the throttle body and move towards the front bumper. Remove them all. If It is a wire and hooks up the engine disconnect it and mark it.

Drain the radiator, oil pan, oil filter and transmission.

Remove the cooling fans and radiator and store in a safe place. BE SURE TO GET ALL THE FLUID OUT.

Remove the Waterneck and thermostat assembly. Be sure to remove the corrosion if you are using used parts.

Move underneith the car and remove the Driver side axle. This will make your life easier with the rear header and rear motor mount.

Now remove the Downpipe, and as much of the exhaust as you are changing.

Swap oil pans.

Remove front manifolds.

Swap the front motor mount bracket.

Remove the AC compressor and bracket to gain access to the oil filter housing. Swap these. Reattach AC bracket and compressor. You are not actually removing the compressor, you are only unbolting it from its place and moving it away so you can work there.

Clean your hands.

Take the front bumper off.

Stuff the holes on the intercoolers with rags.

Install the passenger intercooler.

Now the fun par find a dremel and go to town on the driver side. first mock up the driver intercooler and see where the hole needs to be and then open it up. Attatch the driver intercooler. The holes are in place so just use the existing holes. The passenger side is easier because the intercooler is the only thing on that side. The driver side also has the oil cooler.Which you should also hook up at this time.

If your oil cooler is not new, you need to flush it. Go to a coin op with a can of PB blaster and flush the thing. Make sure the water is CLEAN when it comes out and make sure you get it all out. I used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I decided it was dry on the inside.

Now with both intercoolers hooked up and the oil cooler attatched the frame take the hoses and attatch the oil cooler to the Oil filter housing. Use NEW crush washers.

Assemble the front turbo. Oil lines and cooling lines. Attach to the front manifold. Then take the whole object (manifold & turbo & O2 Housing) to the front of the block. Attach cooling lines and oil lines.

Keep the rear turbo handy. Remove the upper intake manifold (Plenum) Stuff rags in holes left on engine IMMEDIATLY.


YOU ARE ****** IF A BOLT FALLS IN ONE OF THESE HOLES


Remove rear manifold. Swap with Turbo manifold. Attach rear turbo. To the manifold. Attach all lines. Attach rear O2 housing.

Remove the Fuel rails. Swap the injectors. Solider the resistors into the front and rear harness. Reattach the fuel rails with the larger injectors.

Replace the fuel rails.

Put on the Turbo upper plenum. The reason I reccomend using the Turbo plenum instead of the NA is the NA has the VICS motor exactly where the rear turbos hard intercooler pipe wants to go.


Now both turbos are on the engine. Hooked to an oil source and water source which also means that the water neck is changed and that the oil filter housing is changed. You also should have the oil return lines hooked up the the oil pan. This was a pain in the ass and I reccomend getting longer bolts to do this. This actually took me close to two hours pretty much the hardest part of the whole thing.

Attatch the intercooler pipes and hoses to the turbos and intercoolers.

Reattach the exhaust. You should have an 02 sensor and a wide band sensor installed in the exhaust before you bolt it up.

Now its time for the gauges. Wire those in. I reccomend, a wideband, EGT (placed in the rear exhaust manifold before the turbo, and a boost gauge.

Also install the SAFC.

Pull your plugs crank the engine to prime those turbos. Put the plugs back on start and hope you are good.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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if you would like to elaborate on a section please quote that section and then do your thing.

the write up is not complete.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 09:05 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EMC 3000gt @ Feb 13 2009, 08:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.[/b]
Well said, lol I hate that I forget to do it everytime then I have to put in gauges or wire an safc or something to the ecu under the dash and I have no room what so ever because of the **** power seat.
Nice write up I think you pretty much have it all covered well.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 05:12 PM
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I am looking to start this project this summer and have been reading up on a few things. In here you say using a stock TT oil pan will work. I have read else where that the pans don't bolt on right. I have a 95 SL. Would a 95 TT pan bolt on to my car?
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-26-2009, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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I don't know I've never tried but I would say yes.

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