97 Eclipse Front End Noise And Motor Mount Problems..? - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Okay.. first , New here .. so Hello ! And Thanks in advance for help !

I bought a 97 Eclipse GS 2.0 / auto trans a week ago... my main problem is that I know the front transmission (rollout) mount is bad.. there is a lot of play in it. Now under heavy acceleration and switching of gears the steering wheel is a bare to hold onto to keep straight. I hear a lot of clunking etc from the front end of the car. Even under low acceleration when the gas pedal is pushed the car goes to the right , when i let off it goes to the left. Could this be just the rollout mounts or do i have most likely front end problems to...? Also when I turn left or right... it seems instead of the steering wheel turning back nice and smoothly after i straighten up the car , I have to basically make sure I turn it back to straighten up the car... (if that makes any sense) ...

Also how hard is it to fix the front and back mounts..? I'm pretty hands on with cars and can do most stuff myself... but new to Mitsubishi cars ... what are the KNOWN issues with the front end of these cars..?

thanks again in advance for any help !!!

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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i'm also thinking about welding the mounts .. ive seen people who have made solid mounts... but what about welding a bracket from the mount to the frame instead of pulling the mount(s) and making metal inserts...?

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 08:48 AM
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just put stock replacements in. The wheel not turning back indicates a bad ball joint. Call the dealer with your VIN to see if the lower lateral arms have been replaced. If not get them replaced ASAP. They can seperate and cause huge huge problems.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 11:55 AM
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Well, the motor mount is not that hard to do. As for the suspension, there is no way that we can tell you whats up unless we actually checked the front end. Put the car on jack stands, put a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly and shake the wheel side to side and up and down and check for play. If any play is felt look at where its coming from and there you go you found the problem. I got my eclipse at 135k and it needed a driver side tie rod and upper control arm ball joint. If its a control arm you have to replace the entire arm, beck/arnley makes it.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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i had it up on stands... not under the lower control arm though... i looked at everything and it seemed to look fine... no rips in the boots etc... I took the wheel and tried moving it with my hands on top and bottom.... no movement... then side to side.. no movement, but did notice when I took the wheel and turned it to the right pretty far then back to the left pretty far there was a clunking noise from the center of the car... couldn't tell where it was coming from....

also... a quick question... where is the MAF sensor located at ??? I can't find it.. unless it's under the filter box...? Or does the 97 use a MAF sensor... as my car will go into a rough idle and then die... starts right back up... idles but then goes into a rough idle... sometimes driving on the highway it just quits then starts up again... which is terrible on my engine and tranny ... this car is turning into a nightmare.... .... only thing i can come up with is checking the MAF and seeing if it's not clogged up... i sprayed out the throttle body and cleaned it up.. new wires etc... checked wiring harnesses etc... couldn't come up with anything that would cause the jolt of no power to the engine... but also want to see why it goes into a rough idle at times to and stalls ... could be cold or hot (engine) and it will still do it...

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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ok.. so i took the car in and had it looked at... (for the front end clunking noise) ... actually these guys were great, didn't charge me anything to look at it... and knew all about these cars... showed me a lot of different things and everything they looked at and quoted...

so it needs all 3 motor mounts... all are bad causing all the clunking noise... the engine can basically be raised up by your hands when under the car....
2nd needs RF outer tie rod and LF inner tie rod and front top strut mounts ... for a total of 945 (without the front strut mounts) ..

so next question.. how hard would it be for me to replace all 3 motor mounts.... ? I believe I can do the tie rods... but I don't know anything about the strut mounts (top)...?

any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... or i can pay around 1500 to have it all done at once... "sigh" ....

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 09:31 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sweeper2 @ Jan 4 2011, 06:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
ok.. so i took the car in and had it looked at... (for the front end clunking noise) ... actually these guys were great, didn't charge me anything to look at it... and knew all about these cars... showed me a lot of different things and everything they looked at and quoted...

so it needs all 3 motor mounts... all are bad causing all the clunking noise... the engine can basically be raised up by your hands when under the car....
2nd needs RF outer tie rod and LF inner tie rod and front top strut mounts ... for a total of 945 (without the front strut mounts) ..

so next question.. how hard would it be for me to replace all 3 motor mounts.... ? I believe I can do the tie rods... but I don't know anything about the strut mounts (top)...?

any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... or i can pay around 1500 to have it all done at once... "sigh" ....[/b]

The motor mounts are pretty easy to get to on a non-turbo Eclipse. All you really need is a jack, and a big ratchet that you can get good leverage with. Tie rods shouldn't be too bad, just make sure to count the amount of times you spin them off, so you can get the new ones on pretty close so you can safely drive to the alignment shop. Never did them on an Eclipse before, so I am not 100% on the tie rods. Not sure about the struts though.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 10:00 PM
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There can be many things that cause a idle problem. If the check engine light is on, scan for codes and see what they say. 420As don't have MAF sensors, they use MAP sensors.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 08:59 AM
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if you don't have a coil spring compressor for suspensions let the shop do the strut mounts. Improperly compressing those springs can kill you or someone else....seriously.

The motor mounts are easy, just do one at a time and support the engine with a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. Don't try to lift the engine just support it's weight so you don't smash the oil pan.

Change your fuel pump relay if you haven't already.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (pwee05 @ Jan 5 2011, 08:59 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
if you don't have a coil spring compressor for suspensions let the shop do the strut mounts. Improperly compressing those springs can kill you or someone else....seriously.

The motor mounts are easy, just do one at a time and support the engine with a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. Don't try to lift the engine just support it's weight so you don't smash the oil pan.

Change your fuel pump relay if you haven't already.[/b]
well I did the front motor mount... pretty easy... but still no improvement.. actually no notice at all... but the old mount was completely destroyed.... so my next question... do the side mount next...? or the rear... kinda doing this one piece at a time (cost) and time wise, I don't have much time.. lol

still has that pull when you get on it and the engine kicks down it want to pull to the right (slightly) but enough to feel... but when it shifts is when you get that jerk to the left .. when your driving normal.. you don't notice it ...

and also..... HOW IN THE HECK DO YOU GET TO THE REAR MOUNT !!! LOL ****, it's half way up the back of the engine... also.... the side mount on the passenger side in front of the timing belt etc... is that a slip out mount, I was told you had to tilt the motor to get it out... ?

I just want the **** car to not jerk the wheel when it downshifts ...! I also noticed that it does appear to have 2 new cv shafts (left and right)...

thanks in advance for everyone's help !!!

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 08:21 PM
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Part Number: MR594674
Steering - Steering gear & linkage - Inner tie rod Inner tie rod, eclipse - power 1995 - 1999 $59.03
Part number MB949343 was superceded by part number MR594674.


Part Number: MB910859 List Price Core Price Your Price
Steering - Steering gear & linkage - Outer tie rod Outer tie rod, galant 1994 - 1998 $54.12
Part number MB912519 was superceded by part number MB910859.


Part Number: MB910657 List Price Core Price Your Price
Engine - Mounts - Mount Mount, eclipse, w/o turbo - 2.0l 1995 - 1999 $55.88

Part Number: MB910663 List Price Core Price Your Price
Engine - Mounts - Strut Strut, eclipse, auto trans, left, w/o turbo - 2.0l 1995 - 1999 $55.52

Part Number: MB910661 List Price Core Price Your Price
Engine - Mounts - Trans mount Trans mount, eclipse, auto trans, w/o turbo - 2.0l 1995 - 1999 $49.64

Part Number: MB844275 List Price Core Price Your Price
Engine - Mounts - Front mount Front mount, eclipse, auto trans - 2.4l 1996 - 1999 $43.77

Part Number: MR103156 List Price Core Price Your Price
Front suspension - Suspension components - Strut mount Strut mount, galant 1994 - 1998 $11.48


1x outer, 1 x inner, 3 mounts = approx $275 + $670 labour sounds expensive. You should be able to do the engine mounts yourself. Did they break down the parts prices.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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yeah... their prices on parts were higher then what I can get parts for... I get mine from O'Reillys ... here in Cinci.. I know the labor for putting on the engine mounts was pretty hefty... without the tie rods it was 610 I think ... with the tie rods as well, it was like 900+$ .. the strut mounts weren't even in the quote... who knows how much that will cost...

I keep hearing that the engine mounts can be done myself... but I can't see how to even get to the rear mount... it looks to be a total pain !! same with the side... I can get to that one.. but not sure HOW to take it out... I guess I might be going to buy a manual.... hope it tells me how to do all these things...

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:25 AM
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So I'm assuming it's the roll stopper on the crossmember and gearbox mounts you're worried about?

[attachment=14272:engine_mounting.bmp]
[attachment=14273:trans_mounting.bmp]
[attachment=14274:trans_mo..._stopper.bmp]
[attachment=14275:roll_stoppers.bmp]
Attached Images
File Type: bmp engine_mounting.bmp (2.55 MB, 9 views)
File Type: bmp trans_mounting.bmp (2.83 MB, 7 views)
File Type: bmp trans_mount_stopper.bmp (863.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: bmp roll_stoppers.bmp (2.28 MB, 7 views)
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TW2005 @ Jan 7 2011, 06:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
So I'm assuming it's the roll stopper on the crossmember and gearbox mounts you're worried about?

[attachment=14272:engine_mounting.bmp]
[attachment=14273:trans_mounting.bmp]
[attachment=14274:trans_mo..._stopper.bmp]
[attachment=14275:roll_stoppers.bmp][/b]
well, I got the front side mount fixed and the front roll stopper fixed as well.... seems to much for me to try the other mounts... I thought there was only 3 for a 97 non turbo... 2.0 automatic...?

anyways.. it seems better... but I think the pulling when I get on it is something else... it still does it... i'm wondering if the front top strut mounts that are bad are causing it.. i don't think the tie rods are THAT bad... they probably need replaced but aren't critical yet... leaving me with the strut mounts and the rear engine mount... ? or I am thinking it needs an alignment... the steering wheel is slightly off to the left ...

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:42 PM
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No sense doing an alignment if the tie rods are on their way out, and will be needing replacement soon.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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ok... i understand that... still working on the front end problem...

now the car is back to running and then dieing intermittently , sometimes I'm driving down the highway and the engine kicks out (electrical) , the dash lights come on for a sec then it starts running again... it'll keep stuttering on and off ... thing is the radio etc never shuts off... it's like there is some relay or contact kicking out electric to the engine..

it's so sporadic and NO check engine light comes on that i am not sure if i take it in if anyone would find the problem... and it still has the problem of sometimes the engine dying at a stop light it will sputter and then die, starts back up but seems like it's running real rich until it clears out.....

Then other days the car will run like a dream... perfectly fine for two or three days with NO problems... uuuuuuugh...

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 11:26 AM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sweeper2 @ Jan 15 2011, 10:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
ok... i understand that... still working on the front end problem...

now the car is back to running and then dieing intermittently , sometimes I'm driving down the highway and the engine kicks out (electrical) , the dash lights come on for a sec then it starts running again... it'll keep stuttering on and off ... thing is the radio etc never shuts off... it's like there is some relay or contact kicking out electric to the engine..

it's so sporadic and NO check engine light comes on that i am not sure if i take it in if anyone would find the problem... and it still has the problem of sometimes the engine dying at a stop light it will sputter and then die, starts back up but seems like it's running real rich until it clears out.....

Then other days the car will run like a dream... perfectly fine for two or three days with NO problems... uuuuuuugh...[/b]

Common problem with that symptom is the fuel pump relays go bad on them.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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where is the relay located at .. I was looking on the internet and I think it's located on the passanger side of the center console behind the panel where your left leg would be.. I did look up the part at local auto part stores... all i seem to find is a relay (KIT) with wiring etc ....?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...ip2HomeClicked=

is there a different name for the fuel pump relay...? "BWD/intermotor relay" ..........the above link shows relays but doesn't say what they are for.. ??

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 07:15 AM
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Fuel pump relay is under the hood by the brake reservoir.

You have to take the intake pipe off, then remove the battery and battery tray to get to the rear roll stop.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Is there another motor mount under the batter as well ..? I was looking at some drawings and it looked like there was a motor mount on the drivers side as well... looked to be under the battery ?? Not sure if there is one there.. maybe it was for a different year...?

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the mortgage, not the store, not my team and all their bullshit. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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