2003 Eclipse GT 3.0 Timing belt - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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2003 Eclipse GT 3.0 Timing belt

I have myself backed into a corner. 2003 Eclipse GT 3.0

Was driving and engine stumbled, got off road into a parking lot and shifted into neutral and engine stayed running but was running rough.
Shifted back into gear to try and get home and engine died and has not restarted since,

I have verified timing belt did not break and engine did not jump time as I was able to align all timing marks up.

Engine spins freely just would not start.

Diagnosed the Crank Sensor is bad.

Over 200,000 on the car with only one timing belt replaced so I decided while replacing the CPS I would do the timing belt.

I replaced the Cam and crank seals and when I removed the rear cam pulley it slipped and I busted the pulley and the cam turned.

I reset all timing marks and replaced belt.

When I turned the crank by hand to ensure the marks still aligned they did not. The cams did but the crank was off two teeth but engine would turn as much as I wanted to. (I evidently had two much slack in the belt before I put tension on it.)

I pulled belt and reset everything again. Once the belt was reinstalled I attempted to turn the engine by hand again but after about 1/2 turn of the crank the cams are now bottoming out????

I removed the belt again and turning the cams by hand both will only turn half a turn and then bottom out.

I turned the crank only prior to reinstalling the belt.

Is it possible I got the Crank off top dead center when I reset the crank timing and this is why the cams are bottoming out now?

I was going to turn the crank another revolution and see if the cams freed up but I ran out of time today.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Last edited by chain rattle; 01-27-2017 at 10:19 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 10:23 PM
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if sure a valve has not bent ..just takes one
get the number one piston up to the top of its cylinder on compression stroke

re check crank and cam timing alignments
reset the belt
rotate twice clockwise manually

if still no start

compression test the cylinders
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Last edited by chain rattle; 01-27-2017 at 10:26 PM.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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So it sounds like my thinking is correct, I have got the crank off TDC and that is causing the cams to bottom out when i turn them, correct?

I am not trying to start yet just turning by hand to verify marks to make sure I do not do any damage.

Valves were not bent prior to changing belt and I have heard from several that I cannot damage one buy simply turning the crank over, the cam springs do not have enough power in them to damage a valve is my understanding.

Thanks
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 11:43 PM
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correct hand turning the motor is the way to get this sorted

hope you get it running soon
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the confirmation, ME TO

Been down since week after Thanksgiving!!!

Have not had much time to work on it due working out side, bad weather and work, getting tired of driving wife's truck.


Thanks again!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help Chain Rattle, got it all timed and back together spins good.

Now back to my original problem that got me here to begin with.

Week after Thanksgiving I was headed to work, got about 5 blocks from the house. Stopped at an intersection, light changed and as I cleared the intersection and was slowly accelerating the dash lights came on (I thought the car had died) lights went back off but I could feel the engine stumbling. I pulled into a parking lot to get off the road and pulled into a parking spot. Placed the car in park. (car was still running) but engine had mild miss in it.
Thought I would try and get it back to the house so I put it in reverse, engine died.


Engine spins normal.

Did all I could in the parking lot but no good.

I had towed back to the house.

I have checked everything I can think to check.


Changed cap and rotor
• Sprayed starting fluid into intake. (motor turns but did not even kick a little)
• Checked fuel pump (All good)
• Pulled spark plug have fire (Not sure if weak or not but is firing and consistent)
• Verified it has not jumped timing and all timing marks are aligned.
• Tested Crank Sensor.
1. Verified have power to red wire.
2. Verified ground is good
3. Did crank test for signal. (Key off No signal)
Key on Voltmeter hits 0.2
Crank Engine and volt meter fluctuates between 2.2 and 2.9 volts.

According to all the information I can find the CPS should start at 0.4 and crank to 4.

When it did not I thought it was bad so I replaced.

Got all back together today and same results as before I replaced the CPS/Timing belt. (at 216216. miles they needed replaced anyway so I don't feel bad about that)

Still will not start.

Back to square one!!!!


Suggestions??????
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 07:08 PM
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wont start or run ...........
you have the timing sorted
start ya mug into the throttle body wont splutter the motor to life

spark at plugs and start ya mug ... the motor should have spluttered

time for a compression test .. on the cylinders. you can reach ..

if weak spark
whats it got.......... dissy and coil or coil packs

is the engine light on ....... can you get diagnostic codes from the beast

...
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Spins, wont run.

Confident timing correct as this is what it did before I changed belt.

Agree, weak spark at plug and starter fluid should have kicked but dosen't


Distributor, coil in base of dist.

Engine light comes on but has not been triggered.

Goes out when cranking.

.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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I am thinking if Coil the plugs would be getting flooded with fuel but they are dry.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 02:20 AM
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no fault codes is good... ecu is not the problem
problem is something that does not throw a code

i know this motor it is in our Australian magnas

with all that cranking ,,,plugs should be wet as if flooded

if part of the spark system is weak
check the plug in to the dissy for corrosion or bent pin or loose in any way
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File Type: jpg 1132640.jpg (32.9 KB, 2 views)

Last edited by chain rattle; 01-30-2017 at 03:22 PM.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Checked coil following these instructions.

http://workshop-manuals.com/mitsubis...l_diagnostics/


I only did the Ohm test as I do not have a 1.5 volt battery.

The Primary coil test I got 0.00 on the Ohm meter. should be 0.56 to 0.68
The Secondary Coil tested within spec at 9.4, when I moved the probe on the high output coil post it would go from 9.4 to 10.3 Spec says 9.4 to 12.4 KOhm

Looks like I might have a bad coil.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 11:34 AM
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0 means it's shorted out internally.


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Engine: WR-SRI / RRM 25% UDP / 6G75 TB
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Izerous, I was worried at first I was doing something wrong but when I got reading on the Secondary I figured it was bad.

Car has 216216 miles on it so I think I will just see if I can find a good used one this week.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Update, I went to pick up a used distributor today and took my meter with me.

I tested two different ones they had and both tested exactly as mine does.

Between 1st and 2nd terminal I get 0.00

I went to O'Reillys and tested a brand new one and same thing.

Between 1st and 2nd terminal I still get 0.00

Evidently the coil is good, all four including one new one cannot be bad.

Suggestions on where to head next?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 12:59 AM
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Thats odd if the spec is supposed to be ~0.5ohm maybe just not sensitive enough of a meter in that case. I'm out of suggestions at this point.


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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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OK, My meter is out of calibration so I am confident the Distributor is good.

I have fuel, Plugs wet after cranking and can smell it.

I have consistent orange spark (in bright sunlight) Certainly enough to ignite the fuel

Check engine light come on and goes off while cranking so ECU should be good.

I am assuming if key was bad the security light would come on on dash.

Got fuel got spark why will it not run????

I have not checked compression but there is no indication of a blown head gasket.

Was driving and all dash lights came on as if engine died, lights went out and car engine idled rough then dash lights came on again, engine died and would not restart is what started this whole thing out.

What else on these cars will cause a no start condition?

MAF/IAC/or any other sensors??????
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/GR00002900-11C.pdf Page 11C-8

Standard value (at engine speed of 250 − 400 r/min): 824 kPa (119 psi)
Minimum limit (at engine speed of 250 − 400 r/min): 575 kPa (83 psi)
Limit: 98 kPa (14 psi)

First Compression check.
Understand the car has been not ran for the last two months.

1. 110
2. 75
3. 112
4. 70
5. 90
6. 105

Second Compression Test Results: Added a little oil to each cylinder due to car sitting for so long.

1. 110
2. 110
3. 150
4. 178
5. 130
6. 175


I may have variation between the cylinders but the engine has 216216 miles on it.

Is this acceptable compression range

Last edited by 2003 eclipse gt; 02-05-2017 at 03:10 PM.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 03:48 PM
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my answer is no .
dry test .....motor wont start up at on those compression's
wet test oil added.....says rings have lost tension on all 6

source a used motor and drop that in
or if the original motor allows it bearings / re ring and do up the heads

...

Last edited by chain rattle; 02-05-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of where I was headed, tired of putting money into this motor, lower mileage rering and stuff like that maybe.

not a 216216 miles, to much could go wrong after that.

Body is in good shape so I need to decide if I want to go to motor or time to get complete new car.

Thanks for all the help!!!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 10:49 PM
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If body is worth it try to get a good used engine.

Rough idle could be due to different compression - on it΄s last legs - just died.
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