Car Dies When Coming To A Stop - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2007, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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My wife's car keeps dying once I bring it to a stop light or any stop for that matter. It's a 1998 1.5 Mirage automatic. Once it stalls, I can start it up immediately without a problem, but the idle still seems unstable at that point.

Before yesterday, it would happen intermittently. Then, I changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, which were long overdue. Now it's stalling at EVERY stop.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2007, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, seems to be an idling issue. My mechanic tells me the computer controls the idle and he can't adjust it that way. Instead, he made a few turns on the throttle screw, knowing it is not recommended. Haven't tried it out yet as I'm at work, but will I be okay with this adjustment if the car runs better?
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:57 PM
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hi,

check for broken tubes closer to the air intake, and try to change the AIR FILTER, and sit it correctly, in most cases an inapropiate air input cause the engine goes OFF in idle position,

good look
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-24-2007, 01:06 PM
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OP,
Try cleaning the throttle body to include both sides of the butterfly. If you are unfamiliar with these terms and procedures, buy a Haynes or Chilton manual, either of which will be invaluable.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-25-2007, 08:01 PM
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Engine stall when slowing down on stop may caused by speed sensor which located in the speedometer itself. It happens due to poor contact of the harness pin. Most of the time, it is not caused by the sensor it self but the poor contact.

Have you replace the speedometer cable recently? Misalignment when installing the meter will be the caused.

Please visit my humble website http://dkauto.infinites.net/
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. My mechanic up'd the idle a little bit and although the car doesn't die anymore, the idle is still a bit rough.

Next, I'll check for the broken tubes and I'll clean out the throttle body.

Where does the speedo cable enter the cabin? I recently routed a power cable through a grommet from the engine into the cabin. The grommet was approximately a 1" x 2" rectangle and served a single cable. Is this the speedo cable? I didn't touch the cable, but could the power cable be causing any interference at all? Here's the link to where I routed the power cable. http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t20940-ro...mp-to-cabin.htm

Thanks in advance!
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 01:24 AM
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I don't know if upping the idle is a good idea. What type of fuel do you use? My car hates 93/premium when I start it and idle is a bit rough. I stick with 89 or 87.

About the power cable, I installed an amp in mine too. I just routed it through the door and through a small opening in the engine bay. Actually my bro did lol. From what my bro tells me all the time, it's prob. better to route power far away from other sources.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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I use nothing but 87.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 08:14 PM
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Only thing I can think of is the connections. A wire could be loose somewhere or it could be a tube as you mentioned. I don't think the computer would all of the sudden program itself to do that lol.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-27-2007, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got around to cleaning the TB. The inside was pretty nasty. I noticed that it was pretty dirty in the intake manifold. Is this normal? I'm assuming some oil is normal since the crankcase vents through the intake.

In any case, the car rarely shuts off when coming to a stop anymore. The idle continues to be really unstable though.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-27-2007, 11:36 PM
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Hi Blakwag. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. Sounds like Mirlo has it pretty close. Take off the large air hose just in front of the throttle bore. With the engine running ( in neutral,brake on. Safety first.) take a can of WD-40 and lightly spray into the throttle bore. If there is a vacuum leak or a lean run condition the RPM will jump up and the car will run smooth. If not the engine will run same or stumble. Or take the WD-40 with the straw at the end and aim it at areas that have gaskets or hose connections that look weak or deteriated. When you hit the bad spot the car will smooth out. Another way to find vac leaks is with a stethescope tube. Stick one end near your ear and use the other end to listen for the air rushing in to the leak. All these methods worked when I was a tune up mechanic many moons ago. Hope they work for you.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks stoolman! Come to think of it, the gasket between the TB and intake manifold was split. Could that be a cause?
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 11:45 AM
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Yes. Any place that air is allowed in other than the throttle bore and regulated fittings is whats called a vac leak. Sprits it with the WD - 40 see what happens. If it's really cracked you'll know.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Cool. I'll search for the leak this weekend. The engine light has since come on. Is this customary with a vacuum leak?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 06:34 AM
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I am not up on all the codes but there might be a code for a lean running condition. A lean running condition could cause the light to come on but that is for a skilled tech with a scanner to check.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by blakwag@Mar 28 2007, 12:25 PM
Cool. I'll search for the leak this weekend. The engine light has since come on. Is this customary with a vacuum leak?
[snapback]90558[/snapback]

If it's bad enough, yes. With the engine warm and running, try spraying a little carb cleaner where you think the vac leak is. If there is a change you are on the right track.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-12-2007, 10:22 PM
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Hi, you need to clean the Throttle Position Sensor which is located on the the other side of the cams. straite across next to the engine intake.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Problems continue.

Symptoms are a pretty bad surging idle and my mileage went down. Checked all vac lines and they seem to be good. Rotors, wires, plugs replaced. TB cleaned out. Pulled the code and it says the "throttle position sensor is closed." Does this mean it should be replaced? Here are a couple pics of the O2 and cracked header. Should I do the sensor, header, and TPS then? TIA!






TIA
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 05:33 PM
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Those cracks in the exhaust manifold shouldn't be related to the problem at hand. I'd change the TPS first and then see where you are at that point. If the O2 sensor was bad you would most likely be getting a code.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 08:50 AM
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I suggest you retrieve the diagnosis code first ...

i think the problem may caused by VSS (vehicle speed sensor) ..

If you are driving car model which the VSS located behind the meter panel,then it most likely be the caused due to poor contact. Try to jump or repair the connection ... then it'll be alright ...


Happy trying...

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