We seem to get a lot of questions about wheel and tire combinations for our cars, So I thought I would try and address some of these questions, and help some people, mainly those that have no knowledge what so ever about cars (this is mainly for the 2G Eclipse).

What wheels should I get? What tires should I get? How big can I go? What’s a good size?

All of these questions, we have seen. So, I will start out be addressing some of those questions, by starting with the most basic thing, the tire.

The first thing that many people look at, is the tire tread.
The tread can come in various tread shapes, and designs, but all of them have a few basic things in common, no matter what the brand, size, or tread design.

Tires have basic classifications such as: All Terrain (A/T), Mud Terrain (M/T), All Season (Generally referred to as: A/S), High Performance (HP), and Ultra High Performance (UHP).

All Terrain: These tires usually have a large/prominent lug, designed for maximum traction on regular roads, AS WELL as on dirt. This is a tire normally only used on trucks, SUV’s, and such vehicles.
Mud Terrain: This tire has a very large and prominent lug designed for maximum traction in an off-road environment.

All Season: This type of tire, is the most normally seen tire on vehicles, with small to medium sized lugs. It is designed to give a good amount of traction on many surfaces. One the side of these tires you will see: M+S. This means that the tire is approved by the DOT for use in Mud and Snow. This is the best all around, general use tire.

High Performance: These tires come a few different tread patterns, some for a more all season use, but mostly with a directional tread. These tires are always accompanied by a higher tread ware, and speed rating for the tire. These are generally recommended for use on sports cars, and sport sedans.

Ultra High Performance: These tires are ALWAYS a directional tire, and ARE NOT rated for M+S. These tires have a very high, to highest tread ware and speed ratings ranging from 150-250+ miles per hour. These tires can only be used on road.

Tire sizes, that is always another question.
Tire sizes can vary, from car to car. To help you understand how tire sizes work, let’s look at the numbers that are on a tire.
These are the numbers that we are looking at, when it comes to a tire size: 235/40ZR17.

Z = Rim Diameter (in this case: 17)
Y= Aspect Ratio/Profile (In this case: 40)
X= Width (In this case: 235)

The only number that has ANY relation to an actual measurement is the rim diameter, that being, inches.

The: ZR reference is usually used to denote that a tire is a high performance radial. The “R” in this case stands for “Radial”. It may also just say "R".

Next, there is a Directional tread, and NON-Directional tread. Directional tires mean that the tire has been designed to used, with the rotation being point towards the front (or towards the direction that the car will be traveling) of the car. The tread pattern is designed to function at its maximum potential, when used in this manner.
A NON-Directional tire, looks more or less like a regular, normal tire, and it doesn’t matter how they are mounted.

“Well, thanks dude. But that doesn’t tell me what kind of tire I should get”

Guess what……. Nobody can REALLY tell you, what kind of tire you SHOULD get. It really depends on your application for the tire.

As an example: I personally use a 215/50ZR17 HP tire. This is a directional tire, that has great traction in normal, and normal wet conditions. Snow and ice though? HELL NO. Traction would be minimal, at the best. Because of this, I have a set of all season tires (205/55R16), mounted on regular steel wheels, that are used during the winter months.

Not everybody seems to think about this kind of thing, or hey, maybe you have another car you use during the winter. Either way, this is something that should be considered, for safety sake.

So, let’s think about the application, what kind of things are you going to be using your car for? Racing? High Performance Street? Daily driving? Street use, with weekend racing? Do you just want looks? What are you going to be doing?
I ask these questions, because I am poor, and I don’t waste money. In our current economy, we should make every cent count.

Any racing application SHOULD require a UHP, or at the very least, an HP tire.
HP street and street, any tire from an all season up to a UHP tire.

The high performance tire I bought, was about $60 a piece. Not bad. I mean yeah, I could spend $250 a piece for some UHP tires from Michelin, BFG, Nitto, Toyo, or some other company, but I am not going to be going over 120mph. I don’t need something that expensive. So, think about your application, factor in your cost, and go from there. If price isn’t an issue, then I guess none of that matters, but, for most people, it matters.
Here is a link, for various speed ratings: http://www.dunloptires.com/care/speedRatings.html

My tires are a “W” speed rated tire. Obviously, with a non-modified 95 Eclipse GS, I am NOT going to be going above 168mph. But, I get great traction, a good tread ware rating, and my tires didn’t cost an-arm-and-a-leg.

“Well, I guess that helps a bit, but, what size tire should I be looking at? Bigger the better, right”

That sort of thing is a very common misconception when it comes to tires.
Just because a tire is larger in every aspect, does not mean that it is a better tire for your car.
The actual amount of traction you have with an average tire, is no bigger than a regular sized 11X8 ½ piece of paper. Divided between all of your tires. THAT, is how much total tire aspect, actually touches the ground.
Now, take into account, your wheel size. With our cars, with can plus size our tires up to a 19” wheel. Would I actually do that? HELL NO. That is a LOT of metal, AND, a LOT of tire to move. If somebody takes one of our cars, and puts a set of 245/30ZR19 tires on it, and takes an IDENTICAL car, and puts 225/40ZR17 tires on it, which on is actually going to perform better?

To answer that question take this into account: Bigger tires and wheels = more weight to move.

That’s right. Tires and wheels that are stupidly big, are going to put more of a strain on your engine, your transmission, and your axels. Your acceleration will decrease, and your fuel economy will go straight down the toilet. Not to mention, the increase in cost for the tires and wheels, go up a lot, when purchasing tires and wheels that big. It really doesn’t look very good either. The absolute largest that I would put on our cars, is an 18” wheel, and that is pushing it. The ideal size, in my honest opinion is a 17” wheel.

The aspect ratio/profile of the wheel is really up to you. Something that needs to keep in mind is this: the lower the profile, the rougher the ride.
A low profile tire is going to give you a much rougher ride, than a higher profile tire. The profile/sidewall, is actually part of the suspension.
If you don’t care about the ride of your car that much, then the sidewall profile will not matter.
Something to keep in mind, if you are looking for performance, is that the higher the sidewall profile is, the larger chance there is for what I call “sidewall roll”.
In high speed turns, if the sidewall is too high, this can cause the sidewall to not be able to hold it’s form, resulting in the sidewall “rolling over”, and pulling the tire bead away from wheel lip, causing the tire to fail.

Lowering a car with springs, and adding in a low profile tire, will result in a rough ride. Period, no discussion. Sorry but, you can’t fight physics.
Once again, it all comes down to, you guessed it………… application. What are you going to do with your car?

I find that the majority of people with our cars, even turbo models, seem to like to go for ABOUT a 235/40ZR17 tire. This provides excellent traction, a low but not too low profile, is not overkill on the size/weight, and the cost is not crazy.

“Ok, I get it. But what about the wheels? What should I get?”

Wheels……………….. Where to start. How about this, lets NOT.
Wheels mainly are going to come down to aesthetic appeal. We are not talking about serious race application here. If we were, then you wouldn’t be reading this, because you would already know all of this, plus WAY more.

The one thing I have to say about wheels is this. No wider than 8.5 MAXIMUM, and that is pushing it BIG time. You might still rub, even with that. At 9, you WILL rub, 9.5, you will shave your tires. This is all ASSUMING, that you are not modifying your wheel wells on your car. If you are, then once again, why are you reading this? You probably already know all of this and more.

Wheels are all about what YOU like. Not about what others like. Be an individual, and use your head, for what YOU want to put on the car. The only question you should be asking about wheels really is, “Is this a good price for this wheel?”

When it comes to price, the general rule is: Shinny = Big price
Anything with chrome is going to run more than with gun-metal, or black (black being the cheapest).

Finishes vary from wheel to wheel. Chose what you like, and go from there.
If you want to know what a specific wheel is going to look like on your car, I find this site is a lot of fun, and a great help: http://www.wheelenvizio.com/
This little program is a lot of fun.

“Well, what about brands, for both tires AND wheels?”

I work for the nation’s largest tire distributor, American Tire Distributors (NO. I WILL NOT GET YOU TIRES,WHEELS, OR ANYTHING ELSE, SO PLEASE DON’T ASK!)
I know a FEW things about tires, wheels, and their brands.

Brands of tires and wheels, are really a question of how much money you want to spend, and your personal preference. For instance, I would rather use a set of Nitto tires on my car, than a set of BFG or Michelins. This is MY preference. Yours may be different. Some people would take a set of Firestone’s over a set of Goodyear’s, or a set of BFG’s over a set of Toyo’s. It all has to do with your preference for that specific brand, and the price you can get for that particular tire.
Note: I use Riken Raptors. This is a BFG product. With that as an example, there are many other brands that are made by many other major companies. Cooper Tires, makes A LOT of different branded tires, they are the “tire whores” of the tire world, and will make anything. Goodyear, Bridgestone/Firestone, Michelin, and other companies make other brands of tires under contract from those companies, and those tires, are made to the same standards as the manufactures standards. Example: Fuzion tires are made by Firestone, and JUST AS GOOD as any Firestone for the same application, it just costs less. It’s like aftermarket parts, just as good, but without the name brand cost. Keep in mind that this is my honest opinion, and in no way applies to all generic/aftermarket products.

IN CLOSING
I hope this info has helped all of you prospective tire/wheel buyers.
Everybody here at Mitsubishi-Forums.com is happy to help in any way we that can, hell, it’s why we are here. We don’t get paid to answer questions here, to help people, so we can’t answer all questions as quickly as you, or we, would like. So by writing this, I am hoping that it will be able to help, or at least answer the majority of the wheel/tire questions that people might have. If there is something you would like to ask, that is not detailed here, PLEASE, ask us, and we will all be willing to help, to the best of our ability.
Remember, this is nothing but a basic guide.
You want advanced stuff, well, the internet is a GREAT thing. Lots of info there.
Have fun, and be safe.

Boost from now on means nothing unless you specify the turbo that is making said boost.

alright i figured out why my car was running so rich and stalling out. the filter in the ML was sucked down into the hole and was blocking the vac. as soon as i found that out and fixed it, runs great. and holy crap is driving it fun

how do i get the filter to stay in the missing link?

Since it seems that some people are unsure of how to use the "SEARCH" function on this topic, here is some info on how, and what you need for info, on how to turbo your 1995 - 1999 non-turbo Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t23057-ho...-conversion.htm

READ THIS FIRST!!!!

If your questions are not answered, then PLEASE, feel free to ask us anything you would like.
This does not mean, "How much is this going to cost me?"
You can figure out the costs, by reading this info, and buying the proper parts.
When it comes to specific brands, we are all willing to give you our opinions on those.

Now, if you have done a turbo conversion, and would like to share all of the mods that you have done for that, feel free, it will add to the specifics of the thread.

This is not a thread to post your questions concerning a turbo conversion!!! (What should I buy? How much will it cost? Do I need this? etc.) If you post a question here, it will be removed!!!

Well, the 4G63 guys have all kinds of stuff they can do using OEM parts to improve their engine, so I figure, why not us? That may be harder than it sounds, but it is still worth a shot.

If you know of any parts that can be dropped in or used with minor modifications in our engines, post it up!

I know this is VERY old, but it's just for some info for the 420a guys that have questions about the capabilities of their engine. I will delete any post that tries to turn it into the 420a vs 4g63 argument.




Entire thread found here: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showpost.php...mp;postcount=39

Therefore they aren't affected by boost leaks like other dsm's. yes, a boost leak will cause bad performance but only because the turbo will have to work harder to build the same amount of pressure. it has little to no affect on tuning, engine performance, idle, pushing in the clutch after boost, etc.

420a cars use a MAP, intake temp sensor and the front O2 sensor to determine the amount of air entering the engine and how to adjust the fuel curve accordingly. This process is called Speed Density. The unfortunate side of this is that the 420a MAP sensor is only a 1 BAR map sensor that reads vacuum only. This is why the missing link or other fuel cut defender are necessary so that the MAP sensor doesn't see any positive pressure and panic.

More detailed discussion from dsmlink forums to follow. ECMLink V3 is going to offer speed density in the future and IMO is a better/easier way to tune

Hey do you have a somewhat simple or perhaps a dumb question? Check out the two links below and see if its already been answered.

Eclipse FAQ Page

The absolute must read guide for new owners.


If your question has not been answered after looking through those two links or with a quick search, please feel free to start a new thread.


Thank you,


-Eclipse Moderation Team

Guys!!!

I have a 99 Eclipse GS, and I am think about adding an after market intake manifold to it, need some opinion for whats a good brand, what to watch out for, also, for those who have install this unit themselves .....how was it ??? was it easy ? or you think you should have let the pros. do it ??
and a last question ........" DOES IT ACTUALLY GIVE YOU BETTER PERFORMANCE ??? IT IS NOTICABLE ??? "

i got a question for any of you that have done the jeep tb. i just got done doing it and i cant say i am not happy for $20. but at start up the rpms shoot up to 2k but then eventually drop back down to normal idle is this normal?

Okay heres the basics ive went and got the HKS headers, Apexi Exhaust, Injen cold air intake, and coil pack with wire and platinum plugs. the car is running pretty good for the basic upgrades... but i was wanting to be differnt and upgrade my car without going turbo... so i was wanting to know what internal upgrades could i do. like for example port and polish job, cam's, new pulleys.. i want ideas like that but i want to here every part or upgrade i could do to the car with out going turbo. anything from internals to little tricks that gain power

I have a 99 eclipse rs i wanna know what are the best things to do to tune it and get the most power of out the engine. I have an MSD racing coil pack, cold air intake. already any other ideas? (about the cold airintake i hear everyone talk about k&n filters whats so good about them? wat is the difference from other brands?)

i have a 1999 eclipse gs. i fixed all the the leaks that i can see and put a new head gasket on and valve cover gasket and still is burning a little antifreeze. not as much as it did before but still a little and im wonderin if anyone had any ideas of what it could be? i was thinkin intake manifold gasket.

i have no idea what to do to my car, i am only getting minimum wage at my job, and averaging 25-30 hours a week or around $200. so im kinda on a budget, but not completely poor... im willing to shell out a few hundred if needbe, but if its avoidable id take that route. everything on this car just about is literally stock, except for the stereo and muffler. I have no idea what to do. i need suggestions, i am wanting to tune it up and make it look nice and a little bit quicker than it is now. if anyone could point me in the right direction i would appreciate it!

my 1999 eclispse rs keeps on overheating. When I drive it, the temperature gauge keeps going on to hot and back to the middle and onto hot again. Can anyone tell me what to do to fix this.

Im doing a little research on this topic and not coming up with any conclusive answer. Yes I realize this is a lot of work and i should just buy a
GS-T but i didnt, and I wont, so.........has anyone had any luck turbocharging their RS/GS in california? or where I can find a decent CARB approved turbo kit? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

I have a oil leak and im not sure where it is leaking from. I have a 420a type engine inmy 1998 eclipse i am thinking it is the rear main seal but could it b leaking from some where else.

Looking for some help on my current Car situation. I turn on my Car and I got the service light on now. The Car is working fine so I figure I'll check it once I get back from school. On the way there when I'm stopped at a red light, my car starts to idle at a very low rpm(under 1k rpm) and the car starts to shake a bit. To me it sounds like it wants to turn off but it doesn't, after like 10secs or so it revs to about 2k rpm and then back to normal(@1k rpm). While driving I don't seem to get many problems more of a problem once the car is stationary. The Car has yet to turn off on me when it happens, though I do notice it occur more often when I turn the A/C on and am stationary. I left my car on at home and found some light white smoke coming out of the muffler when the idle problem occurs. Also, smells a bit like gas odor once the idle problem happens. Seen a heavy decrease in my mpg as a result.

So I ask my mechanic to take a look at it, He tells me he believes it has something to do with the spark plugs.
I noticed its the month for my yearly maintenance work and hope it has something to do with that. My spark plugs where worn out for one, I change them.
After I get them change, the problem didn't seem to happen for like the first 20mins while driving, I'm thinking sweet no problems.
Wrong, the idling happens again while I'm stationary.

I ask my mechanic to look at it again, he says the computer saying it has to much air in the engine. (I do have a CAI)
So he calls up another mechanic and they figure my Throttle body might be dirty cause of the extra debris from the CAI
He cleans out my throttle body which he says was "black as night."

Unfortunately I'm still having the same problem, been reading online and trying to figure some things it could be but would like to see if anyone could help me out on this.
From the reading I've been doing I'm thinking I should probably get a new head gasket, fuel filter, O2 sensor, and check the fuel injectors?
Please In Need of some Help!!! For the Help

Hi i ride in my 95 gs eclipse non turbo and my manual transmission broke two weeks ago i found a 98 manual transmission from another eclipse. Does this trasmission fits my car or i have to find a 95-96 transmission? Also my car is giving me like 12 miles per galon and i think that too much for a four cilinder is that normal or maybe its because my tranny?

So i picked up a 96 eclipse gs for $400 and it needs a full engine rebuild, i have everything it needs to start running except a gasket kit and a full exhaust. Im not an idiot with cars but im just trying to get some advice on this DSM build.

I'm working on my friends 99 Eclipse 2.0 Non-Turbo. The timing belt went bad on it and it bent all the valves. I took the timing cover off last night and what's left of the belt is shredded under the main crank sprocket. There seem to be 2 pulleys for the timing belt with bearings in them. both of these are so bad that the outer race just comes off and all of the ball bearings are missing. Does anyone know how this could happen? I've never had an idler pulley for timing belt be completely gone like this and that both of them are like this is surprising.

Hi all I am new on here but haved owned my 95 eclispe for about 7 years now. I havn't done much as far as upgrades or anything. Any way I am doing the head gasket on it and had a few questions. I am replacing the head gasket ALL the seals checking the cams w/ a micrometer. Was wondering if there is ANYTHING else I should be checking for and or should be thinking of replasceing? Any help would be great ty so much. Ray

A 1999 420A automatic to stutter while car is idling, the temp gauge is shoved so far up past "H" you can't see the needle tip, Service Needed Soon light is on, and car does not start on first key switch... Need to leave it a few seconds after first attempt and then it'll start on second attempt. Engine has been replaced with a rebuilt/new core about a year ago and I've already replaced the O2 sensors along with timing belt. I'm assuming its a gasket issue, and car is being driven in Phoenix Arizona so temp is well past 100 degrees daily. AC is leaking freon and the cams have been replaced 2 months ago (2k miles on cams). I left the car alone for almost a month now and when I went to check it and finally take it to a shop, it started and no longer sputtered while idling to its death. I have read a shit load of threads and posts with different responses and scenarios in regards to similar issues but have not seen any with the same curcimstance. (beleive me, I know how annoying it is to see someone post a question thread when an answered thread already exists).

IF, however there is such a thread with the same exact issue, and a resolution to it, please post a link within a reply post and my apologies for this post.

Much appreciated - Thank you

(Almost forgot: I drove the car home when realized it turned on after sitting for almost a month, which is a 15 mile drive but once I got home, same issue occured, sputtering during idle speeds, so every time I reached a stop sign/light, I had to put it in neutral and reve the engine at approx 2 rpm so it wont die at idle...) Turned on at C (cold temps) but by the time I got home (15 miles) it was WAYYY past H (HOT temp)...

'96 Base (Non-Turbo)

Right now what seems to be the problem is mostly that when the engine is idling it heats up quickly having nearly reached the "H" zone a couple of times. It was "running hot" about a week ago while I was driving it so I checked the coolant level. It looked mighty low, so I added. Now while running it USUALLY stays at a good temp, but sometimes I'll look down and it'll be up nearing 3/4 on the engine heat gauge.

I'm sure the new coolant I added (and I didn't add much) was not the same as the old, but it's all ethylene glycol, isn't it? I don't think it's the thermostat, because I have smelled my car getting hotter than it usually ever had been. I'm thinking maybe (probably) water pump? Especially since it's doing most of its massive heating while idling (isn't the water pump directly connected to the engine?).

If anyone could help me out that's be great. Thank you.

i for the life of me can not remember the dates that they switch the ecu's in the 1995 cars. if any one knows the date that the ecu was switch please reply asap.

What is the jeep throttle body that will fit the 420a that will help with power? I saw the thread the other day but I cant seem to find it now. Can someone awnser it for me me please.

ok so my car has been running great then my starter started acting up. it was like the gear was getting stuck and i had to take a wrench and hit the 2 prongs on the sylinoid on the starter to get it to break loose and it would start. this wasnt a eveytime thing though. well i drove my car once killed it came back out 30mins later and it was completely dead. so i got a jump and ther battery light was on. no big deal right bad battery. so i drive on towards my house and get 5mins down the road and the whole car dies. figure it the alt then. 225 to get towed home. lol change the alt and now the spark plugs are getting no fire. changed the coil pack and still no go. whats next any help????? thanx guys

Okay,

So i have a 97 eclipse, 420a motor and a manual transaxle. I just had a new motor put in 3 weeks ago and noticed some increased difficulty in shifting after I got the car back. The car labored to get into 1st gear and the clutch seemed a bit hard. I bled the clutch hydraulics system thinking that there was possibly some air that may have gotten into the system and that seemed to help. There was still some difficulty in getting the car into first gear and I noticed that when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear the gears sometimes ground. I took it back to the shop and talked with the technician and he said that my clutch master and slave cylinder were going out and he noticed that same thing when the car was in the shop. I haven't replaced those yet because 1 I haven't had the time and 2 wasn't fully convinced that was the problem. Now I have what seems to be a fully manifested problem that i'm completely lost on. While driving the car seemed to not want to go into gear when shifting from first to second but instead of getting the grinding noise, that was less prominent but was now replaced with the motor revving like the car was in neutral. The same was to be said for 3rd and reverse. So only 1st 3rd and 5th worked. There were no burning smells and no fluids that i could see. So i started my troubleshooting. With the vehicle in neutral, I can move the shift lever and select shift lever on the top of the transaxle and place the car into gear. Also with someone in the car holding the car in 2nd 4th or reverse I can move the levers on the transaxle to have the car go into those gears. Initially after that I thought it was an issue with the shfit cable. So I ripped apart the center console and checked the cables using a diagram I found online. I couldn't make the suggested adjustments to the shifter cable because I couldn't get a wrench back far enough to loosen the cable nut so i just put everything back together. Now for some reason the car will go into any of the top gears 1st 3rd or 5th but will not come out of gear. I don't think its an issue with the transmission because i can still put the car into each gear using the levers on the transaxle. At this point I'm stopping to get my bearings so i don't cause any potential damage. I'm thinking that it's either an issue with the cables or the likange. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

So I bought a bone stock 98 RS recently. It is in decent shape but is missing the heat shield for the exhaust manifold. Anybody who has suggestions or could point me in the direction of a 420a car being parted out would be really helpful, because the engine bay gets really hot.

A friend of mine just picked up a mint 1999 Eclipse with the engine already removed and is asking me to put just a stock engine in for him. I've never worked on eclipse's but have replaced engines in Sentras, Civics, Corolla's and a few GM cars with 4cyl. Is there anything special about putting the engine into a 1999 eclipse? The average time it takes me to do a full swap with removing the old engine is ~15hrs. Is there anything that would make this swap much more difficult? I'm trying to get him to track down the old engine and don't know what has been saved as far as bolts & hoses go. I'll know more once I see it.

Hey guys,

I really need some help here because I am completely stumped now but hopefully someone has had the same problem. I have a 99 Eclipse GS and have a cooling issue. It started out as the car would heat to about 3/4 on the indicator then would stay around there moving up and down as I would drive the car. It progressed into almost overheating and cooling some when driving. I replaced the Thermostat and the old cap on it and it didn't help at all. I was however, losing coolant, and last night one of the major problems "spoke" to me. The radiator was cracked and started leaking. I ran out to Advance Auto and bought another radiator, dropped it in, and the SAME problem is happening. The fan doesn't kick on until late...probably 3/4 the way up on the indicator, and I am not sure if this is correct or not. Is there an adjustment for this somewhere? Does this car have a weak water pump? OMG help please...I don't have money to just keep dropping on parts

ok i have a 99 eclipse gs and someone backed into me last week. it knocked out my headlight, fuse box, crushed my hood, bent my fender back, and messed my bumper up. my car is automatic. i know where a 95 eclipse gs is. its been sitting for like 3 years though. my question is, would the bumper, hood, fusebox, and all fit it? the dude has a body kit he is going to give with it. and also would tthe transmission fit also? thanks

I noticed today that my timing belt wobbles on my cam gears ever so slightly. It moves to the left and right just a fraction of a mm., but doesn't come anywhere near the edges. It does it at idle as well as at higher rpm's.

My question is: Is this normal? Or is it just O.K.? Or is something about to go seriously wrong?

I use a CNS mechanical timing belt tensioner (not the hydrolic one) and it's set to exactly the right tension. My crank gear is pressed in so that it's almost touching the oil pump (isn't that the only thing that keeps the belt in line?)

All of my pulleys and gears are brand new and torqued to exact specs.

I'm at a loss. I'm still driving it around without any problems, but I don't like the looks of this at all.

Any imput would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ive got a 98 eclipse, 2.0L n/a. Tranz shifts in to drive really hard, its stuck in one gear. MIL is on. Im assuming this is limp mode. I pulled the codes and got P0700 TCM malf and P0750 solenoid "A" malf. I asked the dealer, no known problems and no TSBs that they will tell me about. Just wondering, before i go replacing something unessesary and expencive, if anyone has run into this before. An any info on how hard it is to do an valve body, if and how hard it is to replace that one valve, where is the TCM is in this car, and how hard that is to replace. Any info would be great, thanks in advance!

ok i hear that a srt-4 runs a turbo 420a engine... the same as my car, i know they have some differences.. but my question is can the rods and pistons go into my motor? im new to this so my knowlege is limmited. i also here the fuel injectors will go into my engine perfectly... is this true as well?

ok, my old eclipse was totaled, a 1999 Eclipse GS, and i just got a 1998 Eclipse GS. I am looking around for some performance parts to put on the car, (While i will want to turbo it one day, that isnt going to be planned for atleast 2-3 years. So i had a couple questions for the pros out here on these forums.

The only "mod", if u can call it that, is that the car has been running on synthetic oil, just bought the car.

I am looking to

Exhaust system, what sounds the best?

I am looking for an exhaust for my n/t eclipse, nothing ricey, but kinda a low/mean growl. (i know it sounds crazy, but i have been looking and the magnaflow n/a setup doesnt sound to bad to me, but i dunno, magnaflow seems more for muscle cars.)

Also, noob question

Do headers have an effect on the sound of your exhaust, or is it just a HP gain because the exhaust can leave faster.

Last Question

Air intakes, i want one, mainly for the sound/mpg while daily driving.

Short Ram vs CAI?
- What do you guys think, while i am scared to death of hydrolocking my car, there is not as big of a MPG increase from short ram than the Cold Air, but also i hear Cold Air is focused more on higher rpms, which i am unsure will happen often as this is my Daily Driver.

------- Also, can anyone tell me if i am over paronoid about hydrolock, I live in Missouri, it rains, but its not like Washington.

Air intakes i have looked at

http://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=21-430B
The regular CAI, the benefit of this one is that i can equip it with an AEM bypass valve to "prevent" hydrolock.

http://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=22-430B
regular Short ram

http://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=24-6030C
Ok, from what i have read, this is one of the best CAI's out there, it utilizes dual chamber, i cant remember how it works, if someone knows, could they let me know, it bothers me i dont know anymore, i think it uses a bigger tube over a smaller tube for a better power curve, i cant remember.


Also, i only linked AEM intakes, i dont car about brand as long as its not an ebay brand, lol

I bought a 96 eclipse gs that i need to work on but the fuse box under the steering wheel is missing...if anyone can help me out with a diagram of wha fuses do what, id appreciate...thanks

Hey, so I bought a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS about 6 months ago and about 3 months ago it started to become a potential junkyard inhabitant. I'll start off from the beginning. It started to have problems with shifting (It's automatic :/). It would start normally, no engine check light on or anything, but after I put it in Reverse or Drive for about 10 seconds, the engine check light came on and the car drove in Limp-In Mode (2nd Gear). I replaced a bunch of stuff, including the fuel filter, which didn't manage to fix it. So, against my dad's opinion, I replaced the TCM/PCM which fixed it immediately. At the same time as my original problem started, it would not display the speed. However, once I replaced the TCM/PCM it fixed that too . However, the only problem left is when I drive for about 5 miles and the engine heats up to about half of the temp gauge, it starts to sputter, like it's misfiring a few times, then it starts to do it so badly that it feels like 3 of the cylinders are misfiring. The transmission had been rebuilt about 3,000 miles ago before I bought the car, along with the PCM being replaced, because it did the same thing it's doing now . I tried to get it coded at autozone, but they are special and can't figure out how to code it. So, now I have a car that's good to listen to and drive short distances :/ (Car shows anyone? ). Any ideas?

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS

• Cold Air Intake
• Jensen 9412 Receiver
• Sony Xplod 1200W Amp
• Kicker 400W Amp
• Tsunami 1 Farad Cap
• Flowmaster Exhaust (Don't know the exact specs, but it's way too loud to be a V4, lol)
• Eclipse Door Speakers
• Pioneer 6x9" Speakers

Hello, I was recently givin a 98 rs for free. It sat for two years so i dropped a little bit on money into it and got it on the road. Yesterday was the first day i was really able to drive it. But i have one problem, the front right brake seems to be sticking maybe. The car doesnt seem to pull but Theres smoke comeing from it went i use the brake. I replaced the pads and cleaned the caliper with some brakeklean and it's still smoking. I live in New Jersey so rust is an issue. Please get back to me asap people!! THANKS!!

Whenever I drive and hit 2000-2500 rpm, my car makes a ticking noise (its hard to describe). Its only in this small range though, not when over 2500 or below 2000 rpm. I let my dad drive the car and his guess was that it was a vibration in the catalytic converter.

Any other ideas? Anybody else have this issue?

Hey guys, I got my 420a turbo back from the exhaust shop. It runs beautifully except that I keep blowing the wastegate gasket. The lower one to the downpipe is fine, but its the gasket just on the manifold. I read on another forum you could run without a gasket, will I have any problems doing that? I'm planning on trying just the fire ring.

I'm considering upgrading the exhaust system on my car. Since its a completely stock 420a, is it worth it? Would it sound good, or would it just sound like I'm trying to hard? Obviously these cars are pretty slow. I don't know much about cars, but ...
If I do get an exhaust system what do I need?
I saw this ... http://www2.partstrain.com/store/details/M...L/M6615691.html ... if I got this, could I just take it some place, have it installed, and be good to go or do I need something else?
Also, would I be better off getting something like this ... http://www2.partstrain.com/store/details/M...L/F1317231.html ... which is cheaper, but I don't think it comes with the piping and reasonator that the first one does. Do these things make a difference in performance and sound?

That is just two examples off the one site. Any help would be much appreciated, and if you know of a better system possibly even cheaper, let me know. I would like to save as much money as possible, but I would rather sacrifice some extra money than get a cheap ebay system.

Alrighty...i'm having even more problems with this car. It started by me driving to work one morning and on my way there i started smelling something strange cause i had the window down. I pull into work turn my car off and white smoke sprays from underneath the hood. I pop the hood and there is coolant leaking on my heat shield to my headers. I check my resevoir? and its empty. Later when i got off i went and got some more coolant from walmart which was next door to where i work .. which is sams but i put more into the resevoir? and i let it run for awhile. it went good for awhile till the car got up to temp and then a puddle appeared and smoke on the heat shield.

need some help bad

ok so i bought lowering springs and im wondering if the rubber stoppers have to come off of the old shocks and onto the new kyb gr2 shocks? or should i keep them off?

and i saw on here about a kid getting blue backup lights for his car i have looked everywhere for them does anyone know where i can get them?

Im looking to replace the drive gear that goes on the bottom of the vss. One problem. I cannot find one anywhere. Any suggestions? Would a dealer ship have one?

ok so something is def wrong with my car.. i start off driving fine but after a while the rpms start to jump by itself and then drop dramatically. when i go up a big hill the rpms drop to 1500( pedal to the floor) and the car is slow as shit and the car sounds like theres no power. i changed spark plugs and wires and even replaced the valve cover gasket and nothing. please help my car has never been this slow and its def more then just a loss of power... HELP

I bought this ride for 5k CAN. I know it's a 420A but still power seems lower than it should be. Only mods are some bright lights, K&N intake, Magnaflow dual pipe exhaust. on a cold start it whistles at me. i dont know why but the first 2 gears seem reaally stretched out, if i step on it 3rd gear doesnt engage until i hit 120k. this being said it changes gears at 6,500 rpm. is this nasty or normal?



Aside from mechanical mumbo jumbo my springs in the rear have been cut or broken and my camber is off so im getting a quick uneven wear in my tires. My idea is to change rear tires and maybe put 2 or 3 washers behind the higher arm that attaches to the trunk to push it out and not worry about springs for a couple months because im storing the car and possibly getting coilovers.

any oppinions are valued so please tell me what you think

what will happen if i take my egr valve off and block it?