I know this is VERY old, but it's just for some info for the 420a guys that have questions about the capabilities of their engine. I will delete any post that tries to turn it into the 420a vs 4g63 argument.




Entire thread found here: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showpost.php...mp;postcount=39

Well, the 4G63 guys have all kinds of stuff they can do using OEM parts to improve their engine, so I figure, why not us? That may be harder than it sounds, but it is still worth a shot.

If you know of any parts that can be dropped in or used with minor modifications in our engines, post it up!

We seem to get a lot of questions about wheel and tire combinations for our cars, So I thought I would try and address some of these questions, and help some people, mainly those that have no knowledge what so ever about cars (this is mainly for the 2G Eclipse).

What wheels should I get? What tires should I get? How big can I go? What’s a good size?

All of these questions, we have seen. So, I will start out be addressing some of those questions, by starting with the most basic thing, the tire.

The first thing that many people look at, is the tire tread.
The tread can come in various tread shapes, and designs, but all of them have a few basic things in common, no matter what the brand, size, or tread design.

Tires have basic classifications such as: All Terrain (A/T), Mud Terrain (M/T), All Season (Generally referred to as: A/S), High Performance (HP), and Ultra High Performance (UHP).

All Terrain: These tires usually have a large/prominent lug, designed for maximum traction on regular roads, AS WELL as on dirt. This is a tire normally only used on trucks, SUV’s, and such vehicles.
Mud Terrain: This tire has a very large and prominent lug designed for maximum traction in an off-road environment.

All Season: This type of tire, is the most normally seen tire on vehicles, with small to medium sized lugs. It is designed to give a good amount of traction on many surfaces. One the side of these tires you will see: M+S. This means that the tire is approved by the DOT for use in Mud and Snow. This is the best all around, general use tire.

High Performance: These tires come a few different tread patterns, some for a more all season use, but mostly with a directional tread. These tires are always accompanied by a higher tread ware, and speed rating for the tire. These are generally recommended for use on sports cars, and sport sedans.

Ultra High Performance: These tires are ALWAYS a directional tire, and ARE NOT rated for M+S. These tires have a very high, to highest tread ware and speed ratings ranging from 150-250+ miles per hour. These tires can only be used on road.

Tire sizes, that is always another question.
Tire sizes can vary, from car to car. To help you understand how tire sizes work, let’s look at the numbers that are on a tire.
These are the numbers that we are looking at, when it comes to a tire size: 235/40ZR17.

Z = Rim Diameter (in this case: 17)
Y= Aspect Ratio/Profile (In this case: 40)
X= Width (In this case: 235)

The only number that has ANY relation to an actual measurement is the rim diameter, that being, inches.

The: ZR reference is usually used to denote that a tire is a high performance radial. The “R” in this case stands for “Radial”. It may also just say "R".

Next, there is a Directional tread, and NON-Directional tread. Directional tires mean that the tire has been designed to used, with the rotation being point towards the front (or towards the direction that the car will be traveling) of the car. The tread pattern is designed to function at its maximum potential, when used in this manner.
A NON-Directional tire, looks more or less like a regular, normal tire, and it doesn’t matter how they are mounted.

“Well, thanks dude. But that doesn’t tell me what kind of tire I should get”

Guess what……. Nobody can REALLY tell you, what kind of tire you SHOULD get. It really depends on your application for the tire.

As an example: I personally use a 215/50ZR17 HP tire. This is a directional tire, that has great traction in normal, and normal wet conditions. Snow and ice though? HELL NO. Traction would be minimal, at the best. Because of this, I have a set of all season tires (205/55R16), mounted on regular steel wheels, that are used during the winter months.

Not everybody seems to think about this kind of thing, or hey, maybe you have another car you use during the winter. Either way, this is something that should be considered, for safety sake.

So, let’s think about the application, what kind of things are you going to be using your car for? Racing? High Performance Street? Daily driving? Street use, with weekend racing? Do you just want looks? What are you going to be doing?
I ask these questions, because I am poor, and I don’t waste money. In our current economy, we should make every cent count.

Any racing application SHOULD require a UHP, or at the very least, an HP tire.
HP street and street, any tire from an all season up to a UHP tire.

The high performance tire I bought, was about $60 a piece. Not bad. I mean yeah, I could spend $250 a piece for some UHP tires from Michelin, BFG, Nitto, Toyo, or some other company, but I am not going to be going over 120mph. I don’t need something that expensive. So, think about your application, factor in your cost, and go from there. If price isn’t an issue, then I guess none of that matters, but, for most people, it matters.
Here is a link, for various speed ratings: http://www.dunloptires.com/care/speedRatings.html

My tires are a “W” speed rated tire. Obviously, with a non-modified 95 Eclipse GS, I am NOT going to be going above 168mph. But, I get great traction, a good tread ware rating, and my tires didn’t cost an-arm-and-a-leg.

“Well, I guess that helps a bit, but, what size tire should I be looking at? Bigger the better, right”

That sort of thing is a very common misconception when it comes to tires.
Just because a tire is larger in every aspect, does not mean that it is a better tire for your car.
The actual amount of traction you have with an average tire, is no bigger than a regular sized 11X8 ½ piece of paper. Divided between all of your tires. THAT, is how much total tire aspect, actually touches the ground.
Now, take into account, your wheel size. With our cars, with can plus size our tires up to a 19” wheel. Would I actually do that? HELL NO. That is a LOT of metal, AND, a LOT of tire to move. If somebody takes one of our cars, and puts a set of 245/30ZR19 tires on it, and takes an IDENTICAL car, and puts 225/40ZR17 tires on it, which on is actually going to perform better?

To answer that question take this into account: Bigger tires and wheels = more weight to move.

That’s right. Tires and wheels that are stupidly big, are going to put more of a strain on your engine, your transmission, and your axels. Your acceleration will decrease, and your fuel economy will go straight down the toilet. Not to mention, the increase in cost for the tires and wheels, go up a lot, when purchasing tires and wheels that big. It really doesn’t look very good either. The absolute largest that I would put on our cars, is an 18” wheel, and that is pushing it. The ideal size, in my honest opinion is a 17” wheel.

The aspect ratio/profile of the wheel is really up to you. Something that needs to keep in mind is this: the lower the profile, the rougher the ride.
A low profile tire is going to give you a much rougher ride, than a higher profile tire. The profile/sidewall, is actually part of the suspension.
If you don’t care about the ride of your car that much, then the sidewall profile will not matter.
Something to keep in mind, if you are looking for performance, is that the higher the sidewall profile is, the larger chance there is for what I call “sidewall roll”.
In high speed turns, if the sidewall is too high, this can cause the sidewall to not be able to hold it’s form, resulting in the sidewall “rolling over”, and pulling the tire bead away from wheel lip, causing the tire to fail.

Lowering a car with springs, and adding in a low profile tire, will result in a rough ride. Period, no discussion. Sorry but, you can’t fight physics.
Once again, it all comes down to, you guessed it………… application. What are you going to do with your car?

I find that the majority of people with our cars, even turbo models, seem to like to go for ABOUT a 235/40ZR17 tire. This provides excellent traction, a low but not too low profile, is not overkill on the size/weight, and the cost is not crazy.

“Ok, I get it. But what about the wheels? What should I get?”

Wheels……………….. Where to start. How about this, lets NOT.
Wheels mainly are going to come down to aesthetic appeal. We are not talking about serious race application here. If we were, then you wouldn’t be reading this, because you would already know all of this, plus WAY more.

The one thing I have to say about wheels is this. No wider than 8.5 MAXIMUM, and that is pushing it BIG time. You might still rub, even with that. At 9, you WILL rub, 9.5, you will shave your tires. This is all ASSUMING, that you are not modifying your wheel wells on your car. If you are, then once again, why are you reading this? You probably already know all of this and more.

Wheels are all about what YOU like. Not about what others like. Be an individual, and use your head, for what YOU want to put on the car. The only question you should be asking about wheels really is, “Is this a good price for this wheel?”

When it comes to price, the general rule is: Shinny = Big price
Anything with chrome is going to run more than with gun-metal, or black (black being the cheapest).

Finishes vary from wheel to wheel. Chose what you like, and go from there.
If you want to know what a specific wheel is going to look like on your car, I find this site is a lot of fun, and a great help: http://www.wheelenvizio.com/
This little program is a lot of fun.

“Well, what about brands, for both tires AND wheels?”

I work for the nation’s largest tire distributor, American Tire Distributors (NO. I WILL NOT GET YOU TIRES,WHEELS, OR ANYTHING ELSE, SO PLEASE DON’T ASK!)
I know a FEW things about tires, wheels, and their brands.

Brands of tires and wheels, are really a question of how much money you want to spend, and your personal preference. For instance, I would rather use a set of Nitto tires on my car, than a set of BFG or Michelins. This is MY preference. Yours may be different. Some people would take a set of Firestone’s over a set of Goodyear’s, or a set of BFG’s over a set of Toyo’s. It all has to do with your preference for that specific brand, and the price you can get for that particular tire.
Note: I use Riken Raptors. This is a BFG product. With that as an example, there are many other brands that are made by many other major companies. Cooper Tires, makes A LOT of different branded tires, they are the “tire whores” of the tire world, and will make anything. Goodyear, Bridgestone/Firestone, Michelin, and other companies make other brands of tires under contract from those companies, and those tires, are made to the same standards as the manufactures standards. Example: Fuzion tires are made by Firestone, and JUST AS GOOD as any Firestone for the same application, it just costs less. It’s like aftermarket parts, just as good, but without the name brand cost. Keep in mind that this is my honest opinion, and in no way applies to all generic/aftermarket products.

IN CLOSING
I hope this info has helped all of you prospective tire/wheel buyers.
Everybody here at Mitsubishi-Forums.com is happy to help in any way we that can, hell, it’s why we are here. We don’t get paid to answer questions here, to help people, so we can’t answer all questions as quickly as you, or we, would like. So by writing this, I am hoping that it will be able to help, or at least answer the majority of the wheel/tire questions that people might have. If there is something you would like to ask, that is not detailed here, PLEASE, ask us, and we will all be willing to help, to the best of our ability.
Remember, this is nothing but a basic guide.
You want advanced stuff, well, the internet is a GREAT thing. Lots of info there.
Have fun, and be safe.

Boost from now on means nothing unless you specify the turbo that is making said boost.

alright i figured out why my car was running so rich and stalling out. the filter in the ML was sucked down into the hole and was blocking the vac. as soon as i found that out and fixed it, runs great. and holy crap is driving it fun

how do i get the filter to stay in the missing link?

Since it seems that some people are unsure of how to use the "SEARCH" function on this topic, here is some info on how, and what you need for info, on how to turbo your 1995 - 1999 non-turbo Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t23057-ho...-conversion.htm

READ THIS FIRST!!!!

If your questions are not answered, then PLEASE, feel free to ask us anything you would like.
This does not mean, "How much is this going to cost me?"
You can figure out the costs, by reading this info, and buying the proper parts.
When it comes to specific brands, we are all willing to give you our opinions on those.

Now, if you have done a turbo conversion, and would like to share all of the mods that you have done for that, feel free, it will add to the specifics of the thread.

This is not a thread to post your questions concerning a turbo conversion!!! (What should I buy? How much will it cost? Do I need this? etc.) If you post a question here, it will be removed!!!

Therefore they aren't affected by boost leaks like other dsm's. yes, a boost leak will cause bad performance but only because the turbo will have to work harder to build the same amount of pressure. it has little to no affect on tuning, engine performance, idle, pushing in the clutch after boost, etc.

420a cars use a MAP, intake temp sensor and the front O2 sensor to determine the amount of air entering the engine and how to adjust the fuel curve accordingly. This process is called Speed Density. The unfortunate side of this is that the 420a MAP sensor is only a 1 BAR map sensor that reads vacuum only. This is why the missing link or other fuel cut defender are necessary so that the MAP sensor doesn't see any positive pressure and panic.

More detailed discussion from dsmlink forums to follow. ECMLink V3 is going to offer speed density in the future and IMO is a better/easier way to tune

Hey do you have a somewhat simple or perhaps a dumb question? Check out the two links below and see if its already been answered.

Eclipse FAQ Page

The absolute must read guide for new owners.


If your question has not been answered after looking through those two links or with a quick search, please feel free to start a new thread.


Thank you,


-Eclipse Moderation Team

I need to know what size and thread a valve cover bolt on a 420a is. The head stripped out (again) and I have already helicoiled it one time, I'm just going to try to use the next biggest bolt this time. Any Ideas? Because there is a lip on the valve cover I have even considered using a bolt with a nut on the bottom. Help if you have any better suggestions. Thanks for your time.

I washed my car the other day and man did it look nice. I later went out to go to work and the battery was dead. "WTF" I thought. I got a jump and noticed the headlights wouldn't shut off. I drove it for a bit and did some things I needed to do and then they shut off. It rained the other day and again, the headlights turned on. To prevent my battery from dying I had to disconnect the battery but man, what a pain. Every time it rains I dont want to have to do that. I at least looked for a fuse to pull but was unable to locate one that worked.

I assume that water is getting in and making the connection that forces the headlights on. I looked for where the fuse is or what might be getting wet but couldn't find it. Can you tell me where the fuse is? I am thinking it is missing a cover and I need to get one...I just cant find where I may be missing something.

Thanks again.

ok guys i am turboing my 420a as of now i have a Turbonetics 60trim turbo, wastegate 38mm i belive, and a FMIC. i have found IC piping, BOV, exhaust mani, and 255lph fuel pump. what i am trying to find are injectors, FMU and what ever else i didnt post on here ill make a list at bottom. so what size should i get for 8psi. where can i get all these parts from thats a good price that is not ebay style and will break after 2 days. ill post pics of the turbo and stuff as soon as i get from my friends house. I would like to use my stocks but after.


List:
Turbonetics 60trim Turbo (have)
FMIC (have)
Wastegate (have)
BOV (dont have)
IC piping (dont have)
Exhaust mani (dont have)
Injectors (dont have)
FMU (dont have)
255 lph fuel pump (dont have)
oil feed lines (dont have)
oil return lines (dont have)

im sure im missing parts so just fill me in on what and where can i get for a good price.

I just got a 97 eclipse rs with 90000 miles what can i do to make it fast without having to buy a turbo it?

I recently bought a 95 GS and am having a few issues with it.

First, after a lot of trial and error, I had to replace the computer because the thing was shutting off while driving.

NOW, while driving (Seems to always happen at highway speeds) the automatic transmission downshifts suddenly then upshifts almost in the same second. It's almost the same thing that happened to my ladys jeep and she had to have a cylanoid (however you spell it) replaced. I'm wondering if it's the computer since it hadn't done it before the computer was replaced, but that would make too much sense and this stuff always has to be complicated and frustrating. When it happens the check engine light comes on but when I shut off the car and re-start it the light goes back off.

It happens most when I fill the tank and top it off. Figures...cars always break down just as you dump $40 in the gas tank and then cant use it.

Has anyone had similar issues?

Thanks.

i got a 97 eclipse rs and replaced the head gasket. torqued the bolts to spec and did a compression test.

cylinder 1 = 190 Psi
cylinder 2 = 195 Psi
cylinder 3 = 180 Psi
cylinder 4 = 180 Psi

The car wasn't running when i got it so i dont know what the issue was before.

what happens right now is after the car runs for maybe 2 mins and you kill the motor all the oil gushes out the bottom hose.(the radiator isn't installed)

we think it could be a cracked head or something to do with the water pump. any ideas? anyone else have this happen?

and im not talking alittle oil. i mean 5 quarts in 2 mins or less

Hi I just got a 1999 Eclipse GS. Everything is stock. I was wondering what I should change first if I want it tuned for performance. I was also wondering where I could get a good paint job around the 909.

i have a 420a engine, and i have heard alot about swapping a jeep tb off a 4.0l onto my engine, with very little modifying, i want to do this, what do i need to modify it, so it will fit and work properly?, tryed to find a sticky on this but couldn't? thanks

I have a 99 Eclipse and tan leather. My leather is coming off of the top of the door panel and peeling back. Mitsubishi told me it would be $98 an hour to get it fixed. Anyone know a much less expensive way i could get the leather tucked back under and glued on myself? If you want a picture of what I mean I can post one.

So on my way to buy a laser awd, right b4 I got on the ben franklin bridge, I noticed steam coming out of the engine bay. Shut the car off and popped the hood. The radiator cap was spewing and the overflow was filled and bubbling. What do u think people? Head gasket??

Approximately what is the largest exhaust piping size i can go to without hindering the flow of gases from the cat back.
I've heard of people going three inches with no problem.


I've done no mods to speak of, just a ram intake,

so i was driving today going about 70 and my car just decides to pop out of 5th and go to neutral..

ive looked at the posts on here and read that it might be the shifting fork or something like that.

a buddy of mine said that its probably my linkage.. which has been changed before.
im really hoping that if i change the trans fluid it will fix the problem but i need help there..

can you give me tips on changing this fluid or anything i should be looking for to see what might be up?

any help is appreciated

thanks,
tyler

Does anybody own one in there car? if so, how is it? im thinking about getting one

Heyi was wondering is it posssible to convert my mitsubishi gs into a gst. If so wat all will i neeed to do so

hey everybody thanks for checkin this one out got a 98 rs w/ the chrysler 41te auto trans. it is in limp mode, second gear only when warmed up (3 miles of drivin) shifts fine before then. it is setting ses lite with codes po760 po700 po700pd, with longer mileage will also set po134 po340 I have done alot of searches cant come up with any answers. any help with what codes these are or personal experience/knowlegde would be greatly appreciated,thanks again

Alright, Heres the deal! I need some feedback. Just completed the 420A 2.0 rebuild with forged pistons and rods.

Im running a t3/t4 .50 turbo at 7lbs boost. Intercooler, bov, 12-1 fmu, 255 fuel pump, missing link full 2.5 exhaust.

The problems Im having. Code P0171 fuel system too lean.
Also it bogs out when i give it gas too hard.

Im assuming it definitly starving for fuel. Its currently running stock injectors, manifold and rail. No SAFC.

Question is what fuel setup should i run with it, and how much boost should i give? Im looking for lots power within means of reliability.

I was thinking a SAFC NEO with RC 550cc injectors but i hear they are hard to idle. So, maybe 440cc.

Also Codename: Upgrade, Xbox 360 Talon: New 270cc SRT-4 Injectors ... says that these are the best size.....

Hi, I have a 1995 Eclipse. I have done some mods to it but nothing major. i have a K&N cold air intake and a cat back. Recently i have been having some problems with my Idle? Not really sure what to call it but here is whats going on. It will run great until it gets to operating temp....10-15 minutes. Then as i pull up to a stop light/sign my RPM will come down and start jumping around 500-800. this is annoying but nothing major i don't think. if you can help with his i would love the help. But my next issue is after it gets to operating temp when driving the RPMs will start jumping around all over the place (example: 2,000 - 5,000 - 3,000 - 4,000 and so on and so on) it will do this very quickly it will just between many RPMs with is a second. This scares the crap out of me and i need this fixed. I have been told to replace the TPS sensor and the IAC valve. Honestly i don't have that kind of money to just start replacing random parts, i really need to know whats going on and just fix the problem so please help me out.

I recently installed new lifters in my 420a (did not fix the problem) wondering if anyone has experienced piston slap and if so did the compression still check out ok? or was it lower due to wear? thanks

Yo guys, just wondering if anyone has ever used Seafoam. Apparently it can be really good for your car performance wise or terrible depending on a bunch of different things. I know that it basically burns away most of the carbon that has built up in an engine. Thanks in advance.

I have a 99 gs with about 145k miles on it. When i got the car it had 68k and back then it got 26-27mpg every time i would fill up. Lately i've been driving almost all freeway and i'm lucky to get 25mpg. I've changed everything i can think of to help the mileage except for doing a tranny flush. other than plugs, wires, o2 sensor, fuel filter, and tire pressure, what else would affect my mileage?

Oh and by the way, the jump in mileage was pretty sudden, it wasn't all that gradual.

Hello, My name is Blake and i am having a sensor problem with my 1998 sypder gs,,, the check engine light will come on for a little while and it will go off for a little while, i recently took it up to the shop and had a check engine light diagnosed and it came back as a P01700 Fuel trim malfunction, and as i search for what that is (which im pretty confident it is the MAFS) is says it could be a number of things like the throttle possesion sensor etc... is there anyway to figure out which one it is without having to go fork up all the money to replace all them. I should prolly tell yall whatt it does when the check engine light is on as i drive, it runs real sluggish and starts to really drink gas seems like the motor gets really bogged down. My car has the 2.4l SOHC upgraded slightly, Thanks for any help!

went to take off my inner timming cover and it came out in two pieces. is there a aftermarket cover or oem only?

If anyone has done a lambo door swap and has the hinges they dont need, i desperately need them, it would also really help if you live near Toronto Ontario. thanks

Ive been doin some readin around, and from what I understand, the 2.4 engine from the so called "cloud cars" or a pt cruiser and other cars im not sure of.
Simply im asking, is this really a direct swap? If so, what other cars can this engine be taken from?
Or, am i just completely off my rocker?

Okay heres the basics ive went and got the HKS headers, Apexi Exhaust, Injen cold air intake, and coil pack with wire and platinum plugs. the car is running pretty good for the basic upgrades... but i was wanting to be differnt and upgrade my car without going turbo... so i was wanting to know what internal upgrades could i do. like for example port and polish job, cam's, new pulleys.. i want ideas like that but i want to here every part or upgrade i could do to the car with out going turbo. anything from internals to little tricks that gain power

my car will not go through a whole gear if i stomp on the gas. it gains till like 4k rpm then it kinda bogs down. before it was super bad so i put in a new coil, wires, plugs(regular ngk but i have platnums to if it helps), fuel filter and had the fuel system flushed at jiffylube. but now it still does it slightly. any ideas? also today i notice that it does that in any rpm i guess but you notice it more in higher. im pretty sure its a fuel thing, maybe regulater but i dont wanna spend money and it not work

alright i am absoultly stumped on this one. i just got this car from a good budy and he told me that he had a rough time getting the car(96 eclipse rs) to idle in cold weather. when i start the car it imedatly shuts off but if i give it some gas i can keep it running. when it warms up it seems to idle fine. then today i was driving it and came to a stop and the rpms reved up to about 2k and gave me a check engine lite. i took it to the local parts store, read the code and got p1294 air fuel mix bad. i have already checked the fuel pressure, iac, intake air temp sen., spark plug wires, coil, and spark plug gap and still havent got a clue whats going on. has any one run into this problem or have an idea whats going on thanks for any help

Idle Air control For my 98 2.4L Galant seems ridiculous close to 300 dollars from advance auto parts BWD Part #21982 throttle body from junkyard is 100 with the IACV attached . I took apart the side plate and saw the culprit to be A gear busted off a chunk now my idle is all outta wack . I tried to see if i can get a rebuild kit but no luck perhaps theres an alternative i havent thought of

My front and back bumper aren't too sturdy. It tends to wobble when I touch it. What can I or should I do to make it more sturdy?

hey guys, just took a holiday trip to ohio, about 900 miles...about 3/4 way into georgia the car started shaking like a tire had separated. pulled over and the tires are perfect. took it back on the highway and still doing it. but not constant, it does it then it doesn't. it starts at 55 and stops around 75...though it has come and gone over that speed also.

when u disengage the clutch it stops. i just rebuilt the clutch master before we left. no other problems other than that. this thing will shake u to death.

98 GS, 5 sp....the whole car shakes, not just the steering wheel, the wife popped her head out the window to check the tires and nothing odd there.

please help, thanks

Hey I've noticed lately that at idle and small revs that I'm smelling unburnt fuel. Ill be turboing the first warmish day I get,so ill need this car in tip top shape I do have a new coil pack and wires, and the plugs are only 3k old. I don't have any light on the dash, but for some reason I'm thinking o2 sensor. Any input would help

i have a 1996 eagle talon esi had no problems with it then i left it out in a snow storm and i won't start but it will turn over i checked all the censors and i hooked it up to a little computer and it read no problems

could it be the computer or the ignition condenser in my car?

For such a simple procedure for replacing Spark Plug there is a lot to choose from. Platinum vs Iridium vs gap and no gap and etc. Blah, not feeling it for doing extensive research. So i bring the question to my fellow 2g owners. Which brand should i get and which ones exactly? I'll be stopping by Pep Boys or Autozone tomorrow and picking up whatever you all recommend. I don't care if it's a "performance" gain or not, i just need to replace 'em and check it off my maintenance list. A link to the exact part would be most appreciative Thanks!

Hello,
I've searched all over the forums but couldn't locate any info on my transmission problem. I purchased a 1993 Plymouth Laser RS non-turbo, with 103K miles on it, for $50 because it had transmission (automatic) problems. The vehicle has no problems in reverse, but appeared to severly slip in 1st gear when trying to go forward.

I was hoping the problem would be valve body or soleniod related, so I drained the transmission and only found the usual metal particles from typical use, no chips or larger pieces of metal. The forward soleniod (?, its been a awhile since I did this so I don't remember what it was called for sure) checked to specs (around 3 ohms ?). The valve body was very dirty so I completely diassembled and cleaned it. I reassembled everything and changed the filter, putting in the AFT +4 fluid required.

I then went to test drive the car, put in Drive, and off it went, but in 2nd gear only. It did not seem to slip at all in second. Realizing I must have done something wrong, I checked manuals which indicated it was in "limp" mode, usually associated with computer or electrical problems. I quickly figured out what I had done, or rather NOT done, and plugged in the soleniod harness. (DUH !) Once I did this and tried to drive it, 1st gear again severly slipped until the car was going fast enough to shift into 2nd, and then it seemed to be fine.

The car appears to have been owned by a female with kids (by the items that were left in it, I bought it from a tow yard) so I doubt it was driven hard, but if I were guessing the 1st gear clutch pack is probably toast. I did see some sort of schematic though that showed some type of OWC (One Way Clutch) clutch that may possibly only engage with 1st gear (?) and wondered if I might be missing something else. I don't know much about electronically controlled transmissions.

All the forums on transmissions seem to either deal with the Chysler trans or the overdrive gear problems of this trans. Does anyone have any ideas? If I have to rebuild it I will even though I realize it is no easy task. I have the ATSG KM-175 Manual and the "KM-175 Rebuild Procedures" book by Cliff McCormick, but was wondering if anyone has a rebuild video on this if I need it.

Any help on this would greatly be appreciated as I recently got divorced and I am paying $1,100 a month alimony to my ex-wife, so getting this car running would help my gas mileage as I am driving a 4x4 full size truck right now and the gas mileage isnt so great. Plus, I obviously won't have the money for someone else to rebuild the trans either.

THANKS !

will this turbo manifold from a 92 talon tsi fit a 97 eclipse rs with the 420a engine?

I have a 98 eclipse automatic.... when i step on the gas the speedometer works but as soon as i let it go it drops down and then the trans starts acting up cause it goes to limp mode... i know where the speed sensor is on a manual trans but i have no idea where it is in a automatic trans and how can i change it or just fix this problem please any help would be appreciated thanks...

hey i was just wondering if there was a way to lower my eclipse with stock suspension/springs and all of that. my friend told me you could but i just wanna know for sure. any help would be great, im trying to learn as much about my car and others as quick and good as i can.


preciate it

Ok, ive been reading about mivec for months, I understand that it is the variable valve control from Mittsubishi.
I was just wondering if it is possible to put on a 98 eclipse gs.
If it is is it worth the time and cash?

Need some help finding some stock replacement rods for a 99 eclipse. Any info would be great.