Hey, is this the evap selenoid? [attachmentid=8657]

what would happen if i took the vacuum line off of it?

So far i've done everything i can think of to increase my mileage. It's gone down like crazy from 27 to 22. Other than a little bit wider tires i dont know what could cause it. Is it possible something like an oxygen sensor could be bad causing this problem without causing a CEL?

hey guys i was wondering i found some intake manifolds on line (slowboy) and i was wondering about how much hp would one of these creating guessing like 10-15? just another question i was wondering if any one could recomend a brand or intake manifold

I wasn't paying attention one day (yes like a retard) and I was following my friend and drove right over a median and scraped the bottom of the car on the concrete. I didn't notice anything wrong. About 2 days later, I hit a hard bump (railroad tracks) and then I noticed my exhaust was loud as hell and sounds deep (actually kind of cool). I stopped and looked and nothing was wrong, until I nudged the muffler with my foot and it wobbled back and forth like it was dismantled.

So anyway I've been dealing with it lately, but since 3 days ago it has been extremely noisy at 4,000 rpms, it sounds like two metal cans vibrating against each other. I assume it's the loose exhaust pipe rubbing against something else.

Anyone know if I busted a clamp or something, and where are all the clamps that hold the exhaust to the chassis?

From my understanding an in line 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. engine is subject to different kinds of stress than v6's, 8's 10's ect. In the case of an inline engine the crankshaft and flywheel must be balanced to itself, and the other components weight matched. In other words the spinning crankshaft or flywheel alone will cause no static or dynamic imbalance. But as for the rest of the rotating assembly (pistons, wrist pins, connecting rods) the only thing to take into consideration is that they are weight matched. Meaning that a cilinder is offset by the equal weight (180 degrees from it) on any other cilinder that is not its running mate. Does this sound right?
My question is that if someone were to buy a remanufactured balanced crankshaft, a weight matched set of Eagle (h-beam) connecting rods, and a weight matched set of .20 over JE 8:1 pistons wouldn't this assembly automaticly be balanced when bolted together?
This is the setup I have in my engine. I had mine balanced at 5 star crank for a a little over 100$, but since then people have told me, that considering the quality of parts I selected, a balance would be redundant, and I could have skipped this step saved my money. Is this true?

It sounds strange when it idles and ocassionally stops. Most of the time it stalls when I go to stop. Any suggetions?

Everybody have a good one!
Don't drink and drive, have fun, be safe!!

has anyone every had to do a 4 wheel alignment. I went to walmart to get my tires balanced and the drivers rear tire had bumps all over it and said i needed a 4 wheel alignment.

Ok guys i am trying to reuild my 420a to prepair it for a turbo kit and i wanna do it right. I want to do all internals but i have an old school mechanic father and he knows nothing about these new motors like i need to knoe specs ont eh pistons and everything and i wanna go about 20-30 over... i would like for someone who has totallty rebuild their 420A to tell me like what parts and what the specs are on the parts please helps me with thin

My girlfriend went to leave for work this morning, and retuned saying that her check engine light was flashing. Being an LS1 guy I don't know much about these cars, but I do know that a flashing light means misfires. So I changed the plugs hoping for a simple fix, but nothing changed. The car runs very rough, feels like it's on 3 cylinders. I read on here that the timing might have jumped, the motor has 135k on it, and I have no idea if the timing belt has ever been changed.
Are there any other things I could check before declaring it a timing belt issue?

is it possible to install a turbo with like 5 psi on a 420A engine without upgrading the internals like listed in the sticky.
I already have racing headers and a full exhaust.

ok i have a 97 eclipse gs non turbo... no mods and manual tramsmission

it was running fine and thes all the sudden it was idling at about 2500 rpms so i turned it off and tried to start it back up and it wouldnt start... the only way it will start is if i hold the pedal to the floor and then it still struggles to run and then dies on me..... i was thinking TPS or o2 sensor maybe? please help me

Okay. My engine is 99% done now and i'm starting to button up the final loose ends before I drop it back in. I took alot of pictures before I took the engine out to refrence for parts orientation, and methodicly labeled every wire and vaccum line. This is my current dilema. I accidently tore the single wire coming from this (sensor or something) and I have to get a new one. Problem is I have no clue what it is, or what it does. From my methodical breakdown I know where it goes, and what wire attatches to it, but I have no clue what to tell the parts guy. Attatched are some pictures of the part and where it is located on the engine. Please forgive me for my noobness.

I had an issue with my 95 GS 5-speed that I tried to fix today, to no avail.
My left rear tire was rubbing on the outside wheel well. I figured it was a bad strut, since I kind of new it was going bad anyway.
So, I changed it out with a new one.
Well, still same problem.
I checked the distance between the top of the wheel well, and the top of the tire, and low and behold, that tire is closer to the wheel well, than any of the others.
I am kind of not what sure where to go from here.
Could there be a suspension component that is bent/bad?
A visual inspection of the rear suspension components showed nothing different.
Could something be damaged, so slightly, that I can't see it? Is there something else I can do to check the components, that might reveal an issue?
Anybody got a suggestion?

Ok i have a 1999 Eclipse GS. Non turbo..420a 5-speed....and it blew up a while ago...and i have rebuilt it... and there is a new head on it..and all the pistons everything is new.....but now i have a problem....everything is back together ready to drop in...and we have the timing belt on it and when we hand walk the crank the Timing belt wants to come off..and its tight....and the pulleys are fine we know that..and we can figure out why its wants to pull off...

ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT....THANKS!

So anyway, I have had this problem on my 95 GS 5-speed for a couple of months now, and finally got some more info, sort of.
Recently (the last few days) the check engine light has been coming on intermitently. So, I headed down to Autozone to have them read the code (I guess I am lucky, my 95 is a late model, and has the OBDII). Turns out, it was an "idle control system" code. Honestly, it's not like I really needed them to tell me that, but hey, nowI know for sure.
So, I changed out the IAC finally, as well as the throttle body just in case (a used one that I needed for the Jeep throttle body conversion).
Well, same problem. I have changed out every damn thing on this car (Fuel filter, vacumm hoses, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, TPS, IAC), and STILL, the same problem.
I am at a serious loss, as to what to do now.
I am to the point, where I am seriously going to just drive out to the desert, and use the damn car for target practice. I am so pissed.
Anybody, have any other suggestions?
I really need some help here, or I'm goin' postal.

im getting parts to do a tranny conversion i just need to know if i can use the cv joints on my automatic eclipse, or do i have to buy joints for a manual. I appreciate the help.

ok so i no i need a new radiator. but like i got oil on top of the vavle covers and when the car is running it sounds like someone is slerping and poping a bubble. it is a 1999 rs

I was wondering if anyone could link me to a page where i can see how to run the fuel lines or fuel return lines on my 98 420a.. i have a hahn fpr and a obx fuel rail with obx 12:1 fmu .....im confused on how to set all of this up lol...ive spent hours on the phone getting the right parts with ci motorsports and apex but i really didnt get directions on how to run stuff....thanks

Hi, new to the forum.

My daughter has a 96 Eclipse that needs a motor, it's got a 2.0 non turbo.

Having a hard time finding a 96, is there any other year that'll fit in it without much modification?

Thanks!

will removing the cover over the exhaust manifold cause the hood to catch too much heat? my dad seems to think so

and the only thing I have seen is aftermarket exhaust manifolds being left bare out and those might sit lower than the stock one

all I want to do is paint my exhaust manifold with some heat resistant black paint so it looks nice, I am broke, I wish I could buy an exhaust manifold for it, but it still looks nice without the cover and I would perfer to have it off

can any damage be done?

What do you guys/girls think the best way to get a high HP is besides a turbo. list as many parts as you like and add how much hp it added.

so i got a new header about two weeks ago an my check engine light comes on. so i plug my code reader in an it says i have a bad o2 sen. so i check out the before one, considering thats the only one i have messed with. and i find out it got bent because my radiator fan is in the way so when the engine move it hits the fan. and breaks the sensor. i went around to stores near me and went to see if i could get a shorter sensor but i couldnt find one. so before i go spend 80 bucks on one i wanna see if i cant pick up a cheap more slim fan or one that mounts on the front side of the radiator. (its only the ac fan so im gonna run with it off untill summer) and is that a good idea? . so if you guys know of somewhere i can get one. or how to solve the problem please let me know. thanks

i have a 98 eclipse rs with the 2.0/5 speed. And just the other day i couldnt get the thing to start again. I know it has a dead short somewhere but cant locate it exactly. I checked the resistance across the cables and im finding a short until i remove either the 30a ingition switch fusable link from under the hood, or remove the gauges fuse from under the dash. When i try and start the car i can put the car to run and the fuel puimp primes, and when i go to start the starter relay clicks behind the radio, but the starter solenoid does not click. Car runs great when you push it and pop the clutch or when you jump out the trigger wire on the starter solenoid. Car is completely stock. Any ideas?

I am trying to pull the IAC out of my trottle body, but the screws won't come out. I am worried about stripping the damn thing. And yes, I am turning it the right direction.
Is it normal for the screw to be that difficult to remove? I am thinking I am going to have to drill it out, and tap it.
Any advice?

Alright so im installing front speakers and need to run wire from my amp in the trunk to the speakers in the door. Ive got all the panels off, the wire is hidden but need to get through that wretched rubber hose in the door jam.

1998 Eclipse RS

Looking for best methods to do this.. I know of the clothes hanger wire trick and someone suggested fishing line. is it possible to compact the rubbeer accordion hose

is there a molex connector blocking any empty space that would be there??

random but how much does it cost to tint my car

Was surfing, saw this:

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=4276009&cat=&lpid=1

Thought some of you might like it.

Ok guys, I am FINALLY thinking of replacing the fuel pump on my 95 GS manual, and have a question.
I can get a stock fuel pump, but I am wondering about a Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump with install kit.
Since I am not upgrading anything else (no injectors), would using this fuel pump cause any problems with my stock setup? Besides, the Walbro is like $70 cheaper than the stock.

ok back again with my 96 rs junker...thanks for all the help with my last post....on to a new and bigger problem.

anyone ever replaced the heater core in a 96 rs with a/c??? how big of a job is it? does the dash have to come completly out of the car? trying to decide if i should attempt it my self or not....im a good mechanic when it comes to moters but this would be something new to me...thanks yall

Im looking for tested/Dyno'd HP set-ups please post Your HP. and then a list of mods that helped u reach that HP. i just looking for a good setup for my eclipse. please only 420a engine mods and HP's.

i have been noticing a rattle anytime i hit a bump and its comming from the left side more towards the rear what do u guys think?

just a couple of random questions that have been kinda buggin me about my car lately

My headliner is sagging I wanna remove it and try and put it back together with some 3m adhesive but I can't figure out how to take it off, I tried it but when I got to removing the flaps because of the little electrical cable that goes inside them. I couldn't get it to snap off and was afraid I might break it so i gave up.

2nd question
The lights on the passenger fold down mirror don't light up when I open it anymore, and I can't figure out why, I doubt its the bulbs because I doubt they'd both go out at the same time.

3rd
The little switches the doors press against. that light up the interior when the doors open are completely screwed up on my car (I guess from all the times the doors have been slammed), my driver side one always gets stuck and my passenger side doesn't work at all, I tried to see if I could fix it but I put the little spring in the hole and haven't been able to get it out, needless to say it still doesn't work at all, anyone know how I can fix this, it would be nice to be able to see inside my car when I get in at night

finally
Whats the correct way of putting on the rubber water proofing that goes around the window edges? I ask because I removed it so I could spray paint the trim on the top because the metal was beggining to show, and now no matter how I put it there is still a really small little hole on the corner of the window and every now and then water gets inside

I thank you for your answers and my apology's for making you read all this lol

Yay! I can almost 100% confirm the symptoms of a blown head gasket. All my symptoms match the researched symptoms I found.

These are my symptoms.
-Extreme coolant guzzling
-Extreme overheating after guzzling coolant
-Extreme billowing white smoke from under the hood and tail pipe
-Extreme sputtering, stalling, and failing to start because of extreme overheating.
-Extremely high oil dipstick level.
-Extreme chocolate-milk colored oil on the dipstick.
-Wreckers that sit on site waiting for you to break down and ask for their help. (haha, that was a joke. *nudge* ha ha.)

YAY! EXTREME! Good to know I blew a head gasket because my car can't keep up with my friend's manual Eclipse RS! Never bring these cars above 6000rpms EVER! lol... anyway, he got a ticket. I don't think he'll drive that fast no more, lol.

So anyway replacing the head gasket seems like a quite easy job since it's right on top and doesn't require to pull the engine. Just will take lots of time and a bit of money unfortunately. $45 for a new gasket lol.

I was reading another thread in this forum and it got me thinking, would my auto tranny be able to hold up to my engine after I turbo it? I've been researching, etc for a month or so now and am seriously considering the hrc stage 2 kit, with an estimated 250-275 hp. Yea it'd be nice to rebuild the engine and all for more hp but I don't exactly have the extra money for that, and I'd be perfectly happy with 250 hp, not looking for a quarter mile monster, just something fun.

If the auto tranny would need to be modified, any idea of where I should send it? I'm looking for something reliable since with all the money I'm dumping in the car, it better last me a while.

Some background info: Car is a 97 RS with 155k miles, tranny rebuilt at 136k (bought the car used way back in highschool at 135k miles and found out the hard way shortly thereafter that the previous owner f***ed the tranny up already). Alright that should sum it up.

so i had my timing belt/water pump replaced and ever since the car has been idling different. i brought it back twice. the first time they readjusted everything, no difference. second time they took it all apart again and said the teeth werent right (or something like that) and put it all back together. however, its still running shitty (car rumbles when i come to a stop, stalls/comes close to stalling when slow sharp turns/ or in