[attachment=9817:dtc_1.JPG]
[attachment=9818:dtc_2.JPG]

To make things a little easier to find when scrolling through threads please try to include certain information if you start a new topic to do a write up.

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Hopefully this will help make it easier for people to quickly find what they need.

This section is for how to's, write up's, and threads with FAQ type information. All others should be posted in their appropriate location and will be moved or deleted if necessary.

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Thank you for your contributions!

hey there everyone i just recently acquired a full infinity sound system fro. a 03 eclipse spyder i acquired it from my sisters car  i got ahold of the amplifier the din wire the center dash clock and cd changer i the wire harness was cut so i got all the connectors for the stereo clock display and amp i managed to connect the stereo to my car and the din cable and the amp its turns on but no sound and the clock display doesnt turn on either i have the code but have no way of puttin it in with no display i dont knw if the clock has its on power source when u turn the key or not i have it connected to the back of the stereo i dont knw if any of those other cables are power illumination or ground if anyone can help here are some pics a wiring diagram or color code would be great 

I have a 2003 eclipse gs 2.4. I have the bellhousing and transmission sitting on my bench and cant seem to get them separated. I have all the bolts out of it that connect to two together but something seems to still be holding it up. I don't want to pry on it any harder than I have because it should just pop right off I would imagine. Help would greatly be appreciated, I don't want to make another problem while I'm trying to solve my first one. Thanks!

hello yes im new to the forum and couldnt find any useable information on turboing a 420a eclipse. my main question was my fuel setup on what i might need to turbo if anyone could help like fmu afc or a return line from the fuel if i need to install one any info could help thanks

wanting to put a rear wiper on 08 gs trying to see if all i need is a motor and a arm, blade and
driling a hole if is wired for it already?

Okay this is my problem. I have a 98 eclipse non -turbo. Car starts fine cold but after driven a few miles it is hard to restart. the car runs great once started. I changed the crank sensor but I still have the same problem. Fuel pump? Relay?. It inconsistent because sometimes it wont do it at all. Thanks in advance for any help!

keep in mind i just got this eclipse today and never drove one other then test driving this one a few weeks ago also never owned a automatic so im use to standard.

my automatic gsx eclipse doesnt launch. when flooring throttle it takes it a good 15-20 feet from stop to gain power and launch like id like it to off the starting line or is that normal?

i have seen eclipses on youtube launch and squil all fours. or do i need to rev engine and then throw into drive (automatic newb) or something wrong with my eclipse?

i bought a used 97 mitsu eclipse rs 420a with a blown motor from my brother so he could pay his child support now he wasted the money and is in jail so i can get any info from him. first off i need to find a engine for the car and i dont want a eclipse or talon motor because they get beat on badly so i was wondering what other cars i can get a 420a from? also i cant get the key out of the ignition it wont go past the acc it will turn to start the car but wont go back to get it out so what can i do to release it any information would be a big help. thank you for your time.

I've had the most trouble trying to find a safe place to drill in my 2009 eclipse, to run the + cable from the battery to the amp. I found one place under the carpet that was covered by a place sticker. I uncovered it and drilled through. It was too dark to see, but it looked like there was more flat metal surface behind it. Can anyone suggest something to try thats safe. People are trying to charge me 30.00 or 40.00 to do this. I have run everything else, so I don't want to give in at this point!!!

I just bought a 2001 Eclipse and found that the hold down cables are gone so the top wants to ride up. Having never owned a car with these cables I am at a loss as to how to replace them and where to attach the ends.

Any pictures would be appreciated.

Thank you,

I have a 99 eclipse RS with 121K miles. It has new radiator, thermostat, and radiator cap. However, this problem persists. If you consider the middle range on the temperature gauge 50% hot then once my car gets warmed up the gauge will read 60% hot then it creeps up to like 75% hot stays there for a few seconds then goes back down to 60% hot. Up and down it goes and it does not matter what the car is doing. I could be stopped at a light and up and down the temperature gauge goes. I can be driving at 60 mph on a flat stretch of highway and it does this same fluctuation. It does it with very regular pulse. What could be the problem?

What are the basic things that I need to know, and what tools should I need?

Hey all, I'm looking for a DIY/how to for replacing a crankshaft position sensor. I have the tearstone performance manual, but I can't really follow it. I do better when I see actual pictures... much easier to follow.

2002 Mitz eclipse 3g 2.4l automatic trans.

i changed my headunit and now when i turn on my car the guage lights stay on even when i have them off. whats the deal please help. this is really annoying.

Hey all first off im new here and must say I love the site, secondly is my questions. I have a 2003 eclipse gs, auto

First I have called a couple different shops and can not find an output shaft sensor, does anyone know where I can get one or is this just a mitsubishi only part.
my second questions is where abouts is this located(output shaft sensor) on my vehicle I am assuming its under the battery tray but not sure that just what a local mechaninc told me.

The coede that popped up was 720

Thanks everybody your help is greatly appreciated

[font="Arial Black"][b]both engines are the same. I need so expert advice, including detail instructions if they are available. so far both engines look very conpatible. But i am doing the job at my house and i would like to do things right the first time. I wrecked my 1995 rear ending a semi truck going 5 mph. the front end is all screwed up. fortunally I found a 1996 rs for $500 the engine timing belt broke and replaced unfortunatlly when the belt broke the pistons went and smacked the valves and either bent them or cracked one of the pistons. So I was going to pull the motor out of the 96 and replace it with the motor from my 95. can someone please help?

P1494: Evap Solenoid Switch. Where is it on a 2G non Turbo? How to test?

I bought the manual(Haynes). Those Diagrams are unclear. I think its under the passenger side bumper near the box shaped Evap canister. Is it the part that is attached to th Evap Canister and has 2 medium hoses and on small hose going to it? It also has a small hose that loops back to itself. There is another part that is attached to the car body, it has 2 small hoses going to it and it is covered by a rubber case, its cylindrical with spherical top and bottom. Is this the Evap Solenoid Switch?

How do I find out if the switch is bad?

2001 Eclipse spyder.Bought used don't have a manual.Fan motor made a clicking sound ran for awhile after,car had been siting several weeks.First I need to know where the Blower fan fuse is located and go from there.
Thanks

i have a 92 eclipse gs 2.0 i started replaceing the oil pump but when i took the oil pan off i hade some silver flakes in the bottom of the pan there are shavens and a few lil chunks can anybody tell me what they are. what shouls i look for to fix

Hi,
How would I go about removing the interior boot/trunk panel on an Eclipse GS? i have water getting into the left side of the car when it rains heavily. I have cleaned out and checked the drainage holes on the car (next to where you fill up the rear window wash) and have confirmed the water is definitely dripping from the trunk lid.

I can see four small holes around the edge of the trunk lid, two either side and two on the bottom. The one on the left which is the same side the water is collecting, appears to be blocked by another piece of metal unlike the one on the right. Im thinking of drilling this but before I do im looking first how to remove the black plastic panel on the inside of the car because the water is dripping from this!

Thanks in advance guys

Hi,

I bought a 1997 Eclipse GS-T in the US.
I need to install a DRL module to pass the RIV inspection. Went to Canadian Tire but all they have in stock in Hamsar 45040 module which is not suited for Mitsubishi.
According to Hamsar website, I need a 45035 module.

Has anyone installed one yet?
Can you give me some pointers on installing it?
Do you place the module under the hood or under the steering wheel?


Thanks!

Marc

I have a tech problem that I have not been able to find an off the shelf solution for. First I have a 1987 Suzuki Samurai with a 99 Vitara 2.0L Coil Over Plug engine. The tach signal from that engine will not drive the stock tach. Sean DeVinney with After Market 4X4 told me that some of you Eclipse guys have been putting later model engines in early bodies and have found a tach adapter that works for the same type of application. Sounds like it might work for my application too. Can someone give me the brand name and part number? Thanks much in advance.

jmk1946

I have a problem with the machine shop of my son lost the keys and you can not find it because the camera and import amiricana Eclipse 2000 16v automatic transmission in 2000, you can help me I am from Sicily
thanks

The attached file (html format) contains instructions along with pics of how to cure shifter issues of the 1G models. I found this at dsm.org

Hello my name is Tyler, i go by in_deep. I am new to this. Well I am new to forums anyways. Well this is what is going on, and I need all the help I can get, so any advice at all would be awsome. I live in a small town and I was driving by a place that I always drive by, and for 2 weeks straight there was this family that had a 1998 GS-T Eclipse just sitting there. The body looked really good and it caught my eye for sure. Well after about a month trying to track them down to ask them what they were doing with the car, I made a small investment. Let me explain. The lady that owned it decided to run it with hi oil pressure and it thre the pistons through the engine. Sadly that was good for me to hear. Why? Well because now there is this beautiful car that she has no idea what to do with. So I made a small offer and she took it. No I didn't rip her off, she did some research and came back to me saying she wanted to sale it. So here is what I need help with. First of all money is not an issue but lets not blow things out of porportion. Because the engine is blown I am going to replace it(I will take any suggestions on what engine to put in) since I will have the engine out I am going to convert it into a right-hand side drive. Also it is an automatic and I will be changing it into a manual, I was also thinking about turing it into AWD. Please let me know what you think, and if you have any suggestions. Thanks

were the _ _ck is it can anyone show me please!!?? thnx ed

I own a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse, and have never had any problems with it whatsoever. However, every time I start my car, and put it into drive, when I make my first turn I hear a slight click. It's only once, and only when I start the car, drive, and turn. It doesn't effect the driving of my car at all; just curious why or what would make it do that.

Hi

I have a 1999 Eclipse GS (420A) with a motorized antenna. I would like to manually replace it. I bought the mast and removed the motor from the car, but I am unable to pull the mast out. For reference, I used a Haynes repair manual.

I tried without removing the apparatus from the car first by powering on the radio, waiting for the motor to unwind and then trying to pull out the mast, but it does not budge.

Then I powered everything off and removed the entire thing from the car. I opened the motor casing shell and saw that the sawtooth plastic had separated from the old mast assembly. I removed it from the winding, but I cannot proceed to remove the mast. The person at AutoZone seemed uninterested in helping me. Any help from your experience is greatly appreciated.

In the attached image, I would like to separate part A (mast) from parts B, C and D (the rest of the assembly).


By scribbleink84 at 2009-06-28

Thank you!
NiK

Hi everyone,

Im new to the forum but have a question and thought someone in here could help; I am changing the Shifter Shaft Seal on my 06 Eclipse GT 6speed manual as it is leaking trans fluid.

I have removed the airbox, and removed the shifter linkage; I can see the seal but need to remove the shifter shaft to get at it,

my question is,

how do i remove the shifter shaft and if i do will it go back in?

if someone could give me a few tips that would be great. i am very mechanically inclined but have never worked so close to a transmission. hense the hesitation.

any and all help is much appriciated.

thanks,

MJ

What are some good sites to find parts?

Sites with a Have been proven and tested, and are not going to disappear next month.

Horse Power Freaks - They have parts for just about any car, and the staff there actually can help you with questions. They know more then just the parts they know

Slow Boy Racing - Well known and trusted throughout the entire automotive scene.

Tread Stone Performance - Tested proven turbo applications for various vehicles. Very knowledgeable.

Mach V -

Road Race Engineering - Need some info? Go here.

Buschur Racing - Some people may not like him in the DSM world anymore but he still has A++ products.

Stillen - If you know aftermarket parts, you KNOW stillen.

Extreme PSI Great stuff here

Extreme Motorsports - One of the first 8 second Talons. Enough Said.

Fuel Injector Clinic - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.


Howell Automotive - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Parts Train - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Pro Car Parts - Mostly show parts, but good shipping times and reliable. Need a couple more people to confirm this site, but so far so good

Exile Racing - More closly related to the 3 Gen cars.

Tops Online - All you spyder people who need a new top

Modern Performance

DSM Link Need one? Check them out!

<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>How do I change my fuel pump? What if I stripped the line bolt?</span>

If anyone has ever done this they know how much of a pain in the **** it is. These instructions are for a turbo AWD model but are very similar for the FWD and N/T models as well.

first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Next thing is remove the gas cap. this will depressurize the system do you don't get fuel everywhere when you remove the soft lines.

Remove the back seat using the two tabs in the front. Pull the tabs out while lifting on the seat. It should pop right up.

Next remove the screws on the fuel pump housing cover underneath where the passenger side seat bucket is. Slide the cover down the harness to give yourself enough room.

Before you do anything else you want to try and break loose the hard (high pressure) line. A 14mm line wrench and an 19mm wrench are needed. Attach the 14mm line wrench and the 19mm wrench as shown(I used an adjustable wrench for the 19mm. It's not just any adjustable wrench so be aware you could strip the nut on the soft line)
[attachment=6538:SANY0217.JPG]

Constant pressure will not do the trick. And for turbo models the hard line nut is welded to the line so it will not turn. Non turbo guys I think your nuts are free (haha yea I said it) so they will probably turn. You will have to smack the 18mm wrench counter clock wise to break it free. Again, don't just push, it will strip the hard line nut.

Now, to show you how to break the line free if you happen to strip the hard line nut I have "intentionally" stripped it to show you how to do this

If you have a small bench vise attach it to the hard line as shown.
[attachment=6539:SANY0215.JPG]
Make sure that you tighten it very tight or it will spin and you will bend the crap out of your hard line rendering the entire housing useless. Don't worry you won't crush the nut unless you are some kind of body builder.

Attach your 19mm wrench to the soft line nut and smack it with something like an extended 3/8 inch ratchet. It will take a bunch of hits and you have to hold the vise with your foot or other hand so it doesn't move.
[attachment=6540:SANY0216.JPG]

It is still possible that you may bend the hard line slightly. Don't worry. With your 14mm line wrench still attached pull back on it very slowly until it returns to it's original position.


updates on installed the actual pump into the housing will follow

I will be writing a few guides to help new, and or up and coming Eclipse and Talon owners maintain, modify, and fix their cars.

Basics

Everybody knows buying a used vehicle can be a bit of a chance. Here's a guide to help you take care of and lightly modify your newly purchased Eclipse or Talon.

Maintenance is easily the most important part of owning a vehicle. As bad as you want that new exhaust or stereo, maintenance should always be priority.

As part of maintaining your vehicle, you should change, take care of and/or inspect the following items:

-Change the spark Plugs and wires
-Change the air filter
-Change the oil and filter
-Check the Thermostat
-Coolant flush/new radiator cap
-Flush transmission fluid
-Replace timing belt and others
-Change the fuel filter
-Check clutch and brake fluid
-Inspect brakes and components
-Clean throttle body

If you don't know how your car was treated before you got it, and you don't know what has been replaced in its lifetime I'd suggest completing the entire list. This list is not mandatory, but it will help your car live a long and healthy life, and could save you some money down the road.

Now that you have taken care of maintaining your vehicle, let the modifications begin. If you have decided and set in stone that you would like to modify your vehicle here are a few basic modifications to get you started.

RS/GS/ESI
-Intake
-Header
-Exhaust
-Underdrive pulley

GS-T/GSX
-Open intake filter (also remove waste gate solenoid restriction)
-Exhaust (turbo back for best results)
-Remove blow off valve dump tube (as seen here)
-Better blow off valve. (1g bov, greddy type-s)
-Boost gauge

This is a basic guide to help new members with their Eclipse/Talon.
In the next guide, I will take this guide and go into specifics.

Taken from: http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?...bar+map+numbers posted by SY0237

I cleaned 120k miles of engine waste off the throttle body today.

Here's my method.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED.
13mm socket wrench (prefer ratchet)
size 20 torx screwdriver
PB Blaster (for removing that torx screw, as well as cleaning the throttle body.
toothbrush
rag (lint free cloth for best results)

OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED FOR SAFETY

MOUTH/NOSE MASK. You WILL be very dizzy from the extreme dosage of PB blaster fumes that you will encounter. It is NOT good for your brain cells or lungs.

Latex surgeon's gloves. They sometimes rip and tear, but they offer optimal hand movement while protecting your hands from too much exposure to the PB blaster, and any contaminants in the throttle body.


Start by disconnecting your intake pipe! Disconnect it from the box too and lift it out the engine. Don't forget to pull that hose that goes to the valve cover too.




Before you go disconnecting any bolts, pull on the throttle (open the throttle) fully and disconnect the throttle cable from its groove. Take out the bolt I marked with my chrome socket, and the other bolt is very close to the vacuum line connection on the plenum. You see that open hose? That's the vacuum hose. You can conveniently just pull it off of the valve that sticks out of the throttle body.

BE SURE TO KEEP THE GASKET FROM BETWEEN THE PLENUM AND THROTTLE BODY. If you lose it, buy a new one at AutoZone for 1 dollar. You probably should regardless.


Eww!! What the fack!?


Disonnect the bolt I highlighted, which will take care of all the wires mounted on the bottom. You're almost halfway done now, so turn the thing over carefully and disconnect the two plugs from the throttle body. There is no need to disconnect your battery for this project.


Before cleaning. I used PB Blaster, a toothbrush, and a cloth rag to clean it. I sprayed PB blaster in until it slightly covered the whole throttle plate, let it sit for 2 min, scrubbed the hell out of it with the toothbrush, dumped it, and repeated. I used the rag to wipe away all the grime that was liquified in the process.


After the half hour cleaning.


I hope this helps! (Hope it gets stickied too lol)

I don't know if anyone remembers that far back but newby1gsx was having trouble with his Evo III after he ported the turbine housing. he ended up selling the car and I bought the turbo from him to rebuild it. And now, because i'm bored, you all have to suffer through me posting pics througout the entire process(thanks again Eric!)

This process assumes the turbo needs rebuilt. In this case the turbo was known to not have been primed properly (easy mistake), made a squealing noise under boost, had slight side to side play and slight in and out play.

I won't be showing you how to evaluate whether or not you should rebuild it but if you think it might be time,,,,,,do it. also, I only have 2 hands and the camera took up one of them so don't ask, "you say to use two hands but I only see one?" or, "why is that tool just laying in there?")

Step 1:
taking it apart. Since the turbine housing was already off when it arrived I won't be showing you that part until later. basically I just forgot to take a pic

Step 2:
you need a large set of snap ring pliers for this. remove the snap ring by squeezing the ring with the pliers and lift up lightly on the back side like so...
[attachmentid=8048]

Step 3:
gently (with both hands) seperate the compressor housing from the center cartridge. be careful because if it "pops" off you may bend one of the fins on the compressor wheel
[attachmentid=8049]
it will look like this when you get them apart
[attachmentid=8050]

Step 4: (I only used marker for this step because i'm sending it away to be balanced)
Mark the EXACT location of the compressor wheel, nut, and turbine shaft. usually you would use a small punch and soft hammer to scribe/punch location marks but like I said, I just used marker for an example. Put marks in 3 unevenly spaced locations. Making unevenly spaced marks will ensure that you line everything up the right way. if they are evenly spaced you don't know if the marks are back in their original location.
[attachmentid=8051]
[attachmentid=8052]



more to follow tomorrow, i'm goin golfin bitches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hoping we can start getting these Pinned, so people can start checking these out. I definitely plan to start doing more of these so people can have a video to go along with.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o34aZtSGN34 Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8cqPSVh3Qs...feature=related Part 2

Kudos to Mike for helping out so much...

and forgive my shitty video editing skills.

Jack up the front of the car and get down on the ground next to it. You don't even have to really get under it, look at the passenger/bottom side of the radiator for a white plastic twist plug. Twist it out and the valve below that plug should leak coolant.

If you're lucky like me, it should have a clear silicone tube on the valve it to direct the flow.

You don't have to remove it, just unscrew it, and DON'T do it within 30-45 minutes of running the engine, you WILL burn yourself.

If you can't budge it with your hands, get some pliers and GENTLY squeeze and get it started, then unscrew it by hand. It shouldn't be stuck by any means.

By the way if you're draining your coolant system, you should run some distilled water through it for a minute or two with the drain plug out, to rid your coolant system of any impurities or contamination.

Here's a picture of the drain plug, it should stick out like a sore thumb...especially if that clear hose is there hanging from the valve. The plug faces the back of the car.

I upgraded to a 150 amp output altenator and now need 2 know what gauge wire to use and what wires to upgrade?

Everyone knows there are a ton of parts that can mix and match between cars, mostly 1g and 2g. I finally got around to installing the Evo VIII intercooler I had and i'm absolutely amazed by how well it fit and how easy it was to get on. I've heard they are good for 500hp but don't know for sure, i was just able to get it for $50 so I put it on

I wish I would have taken pics during the install but I have some from the finished product that I will post tomorrow with a write up on how I got it on.

BUT....the whole reason i'm writing this is because a while back there was a thread that half way through we started listing parts that could mix and match between DSM's and I would like to make it a complete list with install instructions. I just can't find it so if someone knows where its at please post a link

thanks

Ok, With the increase in questions reaguarding the 1.8L recently, I felt it was in the forum's best interest to have a 1.8L FAQ (We have one for ever other engine, why not this one?) I am going to try to go as detailed in this as possible.

I am going to start this off with what seems to be the most popular question regaurding the 4G37 (1.8L) engine.


To be blunt, there is really only one option to make this engine fast. Turbo. Now mind you, this option is NOT for the faint of heart. It requires A LOT of custom work, researching, time, and most of all, cursing. I will go into more detail with this in another section but for now, let me give you some links to basic bolt-ons that will help a little (And I stress the term "little".)

A.) Cat-back Exhaust System - The building block for all performance on any car. The very first performance mod you should do. We have all heard of this in one way or another. Weather it's driving down the street only to hear the cry of a "pissed off bumblebee", or learning about it in your college's Thermodynamics course. Whatever the reason, you NEED this no matter what your goals are. However, with this said, the type of exhaust you choose will vary depending on your goals and setup choice. The first thing you are going to need is a performance muffler. There is a WIDE variety of these out here, but how do you know which ones actually work? Well, to answer your question, There aren't many. The ones that are pretty popular in the DSM scene tend to be as follows: Magnaflow, Megan Racing, Apexi N1, HKS Ti, Tsudo and off the top of my head that about covers it. I am sure there are more, but the best advice I can give you is simply try to stay away from knock-offs, whether it be from Ebay or elsewhere. The next exhaust piece you are going to want is a high-flow cat (Catalytic Converter.) Again, there are many, many brands of these but the two that people tend to trust most are Magnaflow, and Megan Racing. Both are relatively cheap (around 100 USD.) The last piece of the cat-back system is the piping. This piece (or pieces if you will) is a VERY touchy subject. The size of pipe you want/need is COMPLETELY dependent on your goals and setup. To simplify things for the sake of this write-up, I will give you two choices. If you plan on staying Naturally aspirated (Non-turbo for the acronym challenged), then I highly suggest going with 2.5" piping. Any more and you will be loosing a lot of back pressure. You need this. If you are going turbo, the I would suggest 3", but if you don't plan on much power, then 2.5" is fine.

Exhaust Manifold (Header) - Ok, before I go into this I want to make something clear. It is NOT headers!! a 4 cylinder car only has ONE manifold, thus it is called a HEADER!! I get VERY upset when people say this wrong. Why? I have no idea. At any rate, it is far more politically correct to say Exhaust manifold or, simply, manifold anyway, so please do us all a favor and try to expand your vocabulary pallet and use this term instead. Now that my rant is finished, on to the point at hand. After much searching and research I have come to a rather unfortunate conclusion. There are none worth buying. Your best bet as to getting a manifold that actually does something besides make your engine bay look like 50Cent's teeth, is to have one custom made. The best design for our motors is, hands-down, a tubular design. Just find an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend pipe and have them make you a tubular manifold using 1.5" pipe for runners. Don't ask me for a price, since it will be different with each shop.

C) Intake OK. First a little lesson in the types of intakes. There are two major types, short ram intakes (SRI) and cold air intakes (CAI). Theoretically the latter of the two SHOULD make more power due to the fact that colder air yields to better combustion, however the reality of this subject is not too compliant with theory. In small engines it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter. THE BEST intake I have found for the 4G37 is made by a company called Cosmo Racing. It only costs 99.75 USD + shipping and fits nicely.
http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=131&pid=394

D) Spark Plugs - NGK. 'Nuff said. Go to your local parts store and pick up a set. Not too expensive. Also, the only ones that are available pre-gapped are the BRP6ES-11's, however, if you wish to go colder there are some BRP7ES-11's from other motors that will fit, but they will require you to gap them yourself, however, that is rather easy.

E) Spark plug wires - http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanc...park_Plug_Wires
Magnecore 8.5mm. best out there.

That about covers bolt-ons. I know it isn't much, but do you see now why your only real choice is to boost?

The next part off this section is internal mods. These are probably the hardest mods to do if you do them yourself, however, they are crucial for a turbo build, and will give you some decent gains in a N/A build.

A) Bore - The factory bore of the 4G37 is 80.5942mm (80.6mm), if you bore this out a bit, you can force some extra ponies out of your block. the MAX I would bore it out is .060 over but even that is pushing it. Any more than that and you will be seeing coolant jackets. With my setup I will be boring it .040 over. That seems to be a safe bore while still throwing some nice numbers.

Forged Pistons - There really are no forged pistons for the 1.8L. However, there are a couple options. Ross and Weisco are both reputable names in the DSM world and both of them are so gracious as to offer a custom piston option. If you give them the specs you want they will fab them up and send them to your door for the small fee of 495 USD. Go ahead, send them a thank you e-mail. You know you want to. Before you go ordering though, I should probably inform you on what you are looking for. If you are going N/A you want some higher compression pistons. If I was truly building a Solid N/A motor and had absolutely NO plans to EVER go turbo, I would probably go with 10:1 or 11:1 pistons. This will allow for lesser volumetric efficiency and net some decent hp and torque gains. Also note that if you decided to bore your cylinders then you will need to take that into account when ordering. If you plan on going turbo, best bet is anywhere form 8:1 to 9:1. The higher the compression ration, the more power will be output, however, the higher comp ratio, the harder it is to tune and the mores tress is put on your internals. I am personally going 9:1 on my build.

C) Stroke - No, this is not what your grandfather suffers after being scared, this is the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The factory stroke of the 4G37 is 86mm. Aside from a custom made crankshaft (Since there are none available for the 4G37) there is really no way of changing this.

D) Connecting Rods - The 4G37 rods are actually [pretty strong. from the factory, the rods are siad to support 300whp, however, if you still want to upgrade, the only real option is to have them custom made. Pauter does some very nice custom rods, but they are rather expensive (~850 USD). Unless you are goin all out and not leaving a single component untouched, there is no reason that the factory rods won't suffice, however, even if you decide upon this option, I would still reccomend getting some new Eagle OEM spec rods. You never know how much life is actually left on your stock rods.

E) Camshaft - http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...mitsu-cams.html Schneider is the ONLY company that makes camshafts for the 4G37, and event hese are simply regrinds. Since, ideally, when it comes to cams you want some that will work all the way to the red line plus a little over the red line, the best option they have is the 3000-7000rpm option. However, this really depends on your personal preference.

F) Valves/Valve Springs/Retainers - Whenever you go with a different grind cam, it is standard practice to upgrade your valves, springs, and retainers, as well. To my knowledge there are no aftermarket valvetrain components other than camshafts that are supplied for the 4g37, so your only option here is to go custom... again. There are three different materials used in these components:
I) Titanium - This is the best, hands down, however, it is also the most expensive. Thes eare VERY lightweight, thus allowing you to safely rev much higher than you would be able to with other materials.
II) Stainless Steel (SS) - SS is VERY durable, and least prone to breaking, however, because they are SS, they are rather ehavy compared to other materials, thus limiting your rev capabilities.
III) Steel - This is what most factory components are made from. it is not as lightweight as titanium, but at the same time it is not as heavy as SS, however, it is also the least durable of all materials.

G) Port/Polished Head - Since, from the factory, the VE of the 4G37 is only 78% (compared to the 4G63's ~89%), your main focus should be getting this as close to $100 as possible. Something that REALLY helps is porting and polishing hte head. the factory size of the intake/exhaust passages of the 4G37's head is 1.25". Most enthusiasts choose to port them out to 1.5" for increased airflow. I will be going this size with my build, as well.

H) Knife-Edged Crankshaft - Since odds are your motor has many miles on it, when rebuilding the motor, you should MAKE SURE to have your crankshaft knife-edged. this will smooth out all of the nicks and scratches on it and make it flawless again, which will help performance a bit and keep your motor running nicely. More of a maintenance mod than a performance mod.

I) Head Studs - A common practice on ANY built motor is to replace the factory head bolts with aftermarket head studs. Most of you are probabl;y asking, "WTF is the difference?", well the difference is this, when you torque down head bolts they expand, thus rendering them usless if you ever remove the head again, meaning you will have to buy new ones. Head studs are stronger and do not expand upon torquing, meaning they will last you forever. The best brand out there is ARP. However, no brands make them for the 4G37, let alone one as prestigious as ARP. There is, however, an alternative. If you drill/tap the holes on the head/block to accomodate for the size of the ARP head studs for the 4G63, you can use them.



I bid you farewell for now, since I have loads of homework to do and it's currently 9PM, however, in my next installment I will cover the turbo build!


EDIT: I fixed a few obvious grammatical errors and typos.