Mitsubishi-Forums.com - The UNOFFICIAL Mitsubishi Community This site is NOT affiliated in any way with Mitsubishi or any of it's subsidiaries. Our goal is to provide Mitsubishi owners an information outlet - a means to communicate with other Mitsubishi owners. It is simply a community where fans and owners can get the right information for tuning, customization and general discussions on anything about Mitsubishi. You'll find the answer to almost any question about your Mitsubishi in this site. If not, simply join and ask! We have many willing expert members just waiting to answer your questions.
This section is for how to's, write up's, and threads with FAQ type information. All others should be posted in their appropriate location and will be moved or deleted if necessary.
designate the model/generation in the topic starter
Good descriptive write ups are well received list tools socket sizes required Sealants Dont miss steps out
Use pictures sparingly
Once pictures are lost- the whole write up sometimes becomes useless
Thank you for your contributions!
if something is wrong about the write up notify a technical advisor moderator
if supporting net /web links are closed the thread will be deleted
All posts MUST be on topic. ANY AND ALL OFF TOPIC POSTS WILL BE DELETED. All other board rules also apply in this section. .
ALL information must be cited appropriately. If you copied/pasted or quoted another source you must have permission from the author and cite appropriately. . Mitsubishi-Forums.com is not responsible for any information that has been pirated.
I don't know if anyone remembers that far back but newby1gsx was having trouble with his Evo III after he ported the turbine housing. he ended up selling the car and I bought the turbo from him to rebuild it. And now, because i'm bored, you all have to suffer through me posting pics througout the entire process(thanks again Eric!)
This process assumes the turbo needs rebuilt. In this case the turbo was known to not have been primed properly (easy mistake), made a squealing noise under boost, had slight side to side play and slight in and out play.
I won't be showing you how to evaluate whether or not you should rebuild it but if you think it might be time,,,,,,do it. also, I only have 2 hands and the camera took up one of them so don't ask, "you say to use two hands but I only see one?" or, "why is that tool just laying in there?")
Step 1: taking it apart. Since the turbine housing was already off when it arrived I won't be showing you that part until later. basically I just forgot to take a pic
Step 2: you need a large set of snap ring pliers for this. remove the snap ring by squeezing the ring with the pliers and lift up lightly on the back side like so... [attachmentid=8048]
Step 3: gently (with both hands) seperate the compressor housing from the center cartridge. be careful because if it "pops" off you may bend one of the fins on the compressor wheel [attachmentid=8049] it will look like this when you get them apart [attachmentid=8050]
Step 4: (I only used marker for this step because i'm sending it away to be balanced) Mark the EXACT location of the compressor wheel, nut, and turbine shaft. usually you would use a small punch and soft hammer to scribe/punch location marks but like I said, I just used marker for an example. Put marks in 3 unevenly spaced locations. Making unevenly spaced marks will ensure that you line everything up the right way. if they are evenly spaced you don't know if the marks are back in their original location. [attachmentid=8051] [attachmentid=8052]
more to follow tomorrow, i'm goin golfin bitches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is pretty self explanatory, but I felt that it may be a good idea to do a quick write-up just in case. I did not take any pics, however, because this is a very easy and strait-forward procedure.
Required Tools: -Some kind of tape (I used scotch) -Sharpie (Any Color) -Small #2 Screwdriver (#1 will also work if that is all you have)
Optional Tools: -Flashlight (REALLY helps)
Pre-Removal Preparation: 1) Wrap a piece of tape around each plug wire
2) Using the sharpie, label each piece of tape with the order of which they connect tot he distributor. Top = 1 bottom = 2 and you determine 3 and 4 by traveling clockwise around the distributor (Firing Order: 1324)
Dis assembly: 1) After the wires are properly labeled, remove the wires from the distributor cap and set them aside (Do not remove them from the spark plugs unless you are also replacing the wires, in which case you should note which cylinder connects to which protrusion on the distributor cap.)
2) Using the #2 (Or #1) Screwdriver, remove the two retaining screws from the distributor cap. the bottom screw is hard to get to and even harder to see, but if you use a flashlight it makes things a lot easier.
3) Remove the distributor cap and inspect it for flaws. Make sure the terminals are not charred or erroded and make sure that the rotor button is not worn or damaged. Also, make sure there are no cracks or carbon tracks.
4) Remove the rotor from the distributor shaft (It just pulls off) and inspect if for flaws. Make sure the rotor tip is not corroded or damaged, and make sure there is sufficient spring tension. Also, inspect the rotor for any cracks.
6) If any of the mentioned damages/flaws are noted, replace the cap and/or rotor. If not, then proceed to reassemble everything. Replacement/Reassembly: 1) Place the rotor on the distributor shaft (It should only go on one way and also should go on rather easily. Do not force it.)
2) place the distributor cap onto the distributor and finger tighten the two retaining screws.
3) Using the #2 (Or #1) screwdriver, tighten the screws, but do NOT over tighten them. Doing so can cause cracks in the distributor cap.
4) Connect the wires in the proper order (They should be labeled if you followed this guide.)
That's it. Easy as cake, right?
The cap and rotor should be replaced every time you change the spark plugs as regular maintenance.
-The rights to this guide belong exclusively to Jonathan Bonazza (Jonbonazza), and the improperly cited copy or unauthorized distribution of this document is punishable by law.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>How do I change my fuel pump? What if I stripped the line bolt?</span>
If anyone has ever done this they know how much of a pain in the **** it is. These instructions are for a turbo AWD model but are very similar for the FWD and N/T models as well.
first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Next thing is remove the gas cap. this will depressurize the system do you don't get fuel everywhere when you remove the soft lines.
Remove the back seat using the two tabs in the front. Pull the tabs out while lifting on the seat. It should pop right up.
Next remove the screws on the fuel pump housing cover underneath where the passenger side seat bucket is. Slide the cover down the harness to give yourself enough room.
Before you do anything else you want to try and break loose the hard (high pressure) line. A 14mm line wrench and an 19mm wrench are needed. Attach the 14mm line wrench and the 19mm wrench as shown(I used an adjustable wrench for the 19mm. It's not just any adjustable wrench so be aware you could strip the nut on the soft line) [attachment=6538:SANY0217.JPG]
Constant pressure will not do the trick. And for turbo models the hard line nut is welded to the line so it will not turn. Non turbo guys I think your nuts are free (haha yea I said it) so they will probably turn. You will have to smack the 18mm wrench counter clock wise to break it free. Again, don't just push, it will strip the hard line nut.
Now, to show you how to break the line free if you happen to strip the hard line nut I have "intentionally" stripped it to show you how to do this
If you have a small bench vise attach it to the hard line as shown. [attachment=6539:SANY0215.JPG] Make sure that you tighten it very tight or it will spin and you will bend the crap out of your hard line rendering the entire housing useless. Don't worry you won't crush the nut unless you are some kind of body builder.
Attach your 19mm wrench to the soft line nut and smack it with something like an extended 3/8 inch ratchet. It will take a bunch of hits and you have to hold the vise with your foot or other hand so it doesn't move. [attachment=6540:SANY0216.JPG]
It is still possible that you may bend the hard line slightly. Don't worry. With your 14mm line wrench still attached pull back on it very slowly until it returns to it's original position.
updates on installed the actual pump into the housing will follow
This is pretty easy to do, but I thought I would post it anyway, since I have seen some people talk about it, but nobody ever mention how to do it, or any details.
OIL PAN GASKET RESEAL
I had a leak on my oil pan, and decided to finally drop the pan and reseal it. My Chiltons had a good description on how to do it (it is pretty easy to do anyway), so if you are not sure, check your repair manual. Things you will need (In my opinion): Good set of hand tools Floor jack, and jack stands (I used a set of ramps that raised up the car, no jacks/jack stands needed) Ultra Black RTV Engine Support (The kind that goes across the top, and supports the engine via chains) 5 quarts of your preferred oil (I use Valvoline Max Life, cause my Eclipse has 157,000 miles on it) Oil filter of your choice (I like the Mobile 1 myself) Dead blow hammer
First, I removed the exhaust manifold heat shields, both top, and bottom, to be able to access the two exhaust bolts (I suppose you could do this without removing them, but, I wanted full access to the bolts, for ease of removal). Next, disconnect the exhaust from the exhaust manifold. If you want, you can remove that entire exhaust section, if you want this project to be REALLY easy. I just disconnected it enough to move it around as needed. There is a gasket there so, you may want to replace it, or if it is in good enough condition, you can reuse it (I reused mine, since I didn't want to go down to the parts store and get another one. I IZ LAZY) Support the engine with the engine support. You will need to do this because of the next step. Now you have to remove the cross member on the bottom of the car, that runs from bottom of the radiator support, to just in back of the engine. There is a motor mount on this cross member which you have to unbolt, hence the engine support bar on the top of the car that you are using. Next, there is a bracket that I am not sure as to its function (it seems to help secure the engine to the transmission) that you need to remove to have 100% access to the oil pan bolts. By the way, make sure you DRAIN THE OIL FIRST!!! Now, you can begin removing the oil pan bolts. After you remove them, the pan may still want to stick to the block. This is normal, so don't worry. My pan was leaking a bit, hence it was already a bit loose. If it sticks, use the dead blow hammer to smack on the oil pan to loosen it. Once it drops, try not to dump it. Even though you drained the oil, there is still going to be a bit of oil in it. After you get it down, you may have one of two types of seals to deal with: 1) Silicone metal gasket 2) RTV silicone
Mine had a silicone metal gasket. I was actually expecting there to be no gasket, so this was a bit of a surprise. The mechanics I had talked to, said that there was no gasket, and that RTV silicone was used to for the seal. I am not sure as to if this varies on some 420A motors or not. Anyway, I did not have a replacement gasket, and since the original gasket was in good shape, I decided to reuse it, along with RTV silicone as well. If your pan has only RTV silicone on it, use a gasket scraper or razor blade, to clean off all the old silicone. When I do this, I scrape off all the old silicone, and then scrub the remaining surface with red scotch brite and carb cleaner. No matter what type of gasket you have, I recommend cleaning the mating surface with carb cleaner, to get all the oil off, to make sure you have a GOOD new seal. I also cleaned the silicone metal gasket with carb clean. After letting the carb clean dry off, I ran a small bead of Ultra Black RTV silicone around the entire gasket (on the side that mates to the oil pan). Place that side on the oil pan, and make sure ALL THE HOLES are perfectly lined up. Next, run another small bead around the other side of the gasket, and let the whole thing cure for about 20 minutes. Once that is ready, take the pan, with the gasket on top of it, and bolt it back up to the block. I can't remember the torque specs for the oil pan bolts (check in a Chiltons/Haynes manual), but be VERY CAREFULL. The bolts can very easily strip! After that, simply put everything back together, making sure you put in the oil pan plug, and the oil filter (My dumb ass almost forgot to put that stuff back on). Once you have everything back together, remove the engine support brace, fill with oil, and start. I let mine idle for about ten minutes, checking to make sure there were no leaks. So, everything was fine, no leaks. Hope that helps.
Please add parts or correct my list. I want to make this the best possible.
this is also taking in to consideration the engine is NOT built and everything will remain in OEM form. Basically if we were to take a 1g or 2g and not buy anything aftermarket but just swap parts between them and other cars what would the parts be that we would need.
2g MAF (1g) 1g NT throttle body (upgrade for both) 2g throttle body elbow (1g) 1g turbo throttle body (2g) 1g td05 14b turbo with the 7cm2 housing (both if the 1g still has the 6cm2 housing) 6-bolt N/A block (1gb 2g) 6-bolt rods (2g with machining and oversized bearings) 7-bolt pistons (6-boltcars) 6-bolt 5-speed cams (7-bolt cars, 6-bolt auto cars, 1g n/t) 1g head (2g) 1g intake manifold (assuming the 2g has done a 1g head swap) 2g ported turbo manifold, or Evo III manifold (1g, 2g for evo mani) 2g ported o2 housing, or Evo III o2 housing (1g, 2g for evo o2 with custom downpipe) 2g FPR (1g) toyota supra fuel pump, year?(both?) RX7 FD3S 550cc primary injectors (both) Supra mark 4 sidemount intercooler (2g with flipped end tank) Evo injectors 550-570cc (both) Evo 8/9 BOV (2g) Evo 8/9 fuel pump(both) Evo 8 FMIC (2g) 1g external oil cooler. also rumored starion and conquest coolers (1g without, 2g)
Thanks to 46g3attack, jonbonazza and lilmoes4g63 for contributing
Everyone knows there are a ton of parts that can mix and match between cars, mostly 1g and 2g. I finally got around to installing the Evo VIII intercooler I had and i'm absolutely amazed by how well it fit and how easy it was to get on. I've heard they are good for 500hp but don't know for sure, i was just able to get it for $50 so I put it on
I wish I would have taken pics during the install but I have some from the finished product that I will post tomorrow with a write up on how I got it on.
BUT....the whole reason i'm writing this is because a while back there was a thread that half way through we started listing parts that could mix and match between DSM's and I would like to make it a complete list with install instructions. I just can't find it so if someone knows where its at please post a link
Ok, With the increase in questions reaguarding the 1.8L recently, I felt it was in the forum's best interest to have a 1.8L FAQ (We have one for ever other engine, why not this one?) I am going to try to go as detailed in this as possible.
I am going to start this off with what seems to be the most popular question regaurding the 4G37 (1.8L) engine.
1.) What can I do to increase my performance???
To be blunt, there is really only one option to make this engine fast. Turbo. Now mind you, this option is NOT for the faint of heart. It requires A LOT of custom work, researching, time, and most of all, cursing. I will go into more detail with this in another section but for now, let me give you some links to basic bolt-ons that will help a little (And I stress the term "little".)
A.) Cat-back Exhaust System - The building block for all performance on any car. The very first performance mod you should do. We have all heard of this in one way or another. Weather it's driving down the street only to hear the cry of a "pissed off bumblebee", or learning about it in your college's Thermodynamics course. Whatever the reason, you NEED this no matter what your goals are. However, with this said, the type of exhaust you choose will vary depending on your goals and setup choice. The first thing you are going to need is a performance muffler. There is a WIDE variety of these out here, but how do you know which ones actually work? Well, to answer your question, There aren't many. The ones that are pretty popular in the DSM scene tend to be as follows: Magnaflow, Megan Racing, Apexi N1, HKS Ti, Tsudo and off the top of my head that about covers it. I am sure there are more, but the best advice I can give you is simply try to stay away from knock-offs, whether it be from Ebay or elsewhere. The next exhaust piece you are going to want is a high-flow cat (Catalytic Converter.) Again, there are many, many brands of these but the two that people tend to trust most are Magnaflow, and Megan Racing. Both are relatively cheap (around 100 USD.) The last piece of the cat-back system is the piping. This piece (or pieces if you will) is a VERY touchy subject. The size of pipe you want/need is COMPLETELY dependent on your goals and setup. To simplify things for the sake of this write-up, I will give you two choices. If you plan on staying Naturally aspirated (Non-turbo for the acronym challenged), then I highly suggest going with 2.5" piping. Any more and you will be loosing a lot of back pressure. You need this. If you are going turbo, the I would suggest 3", but if you don't plan on much power, then 2.5" is fine.
Exhaust Manifold (Header) - Ok, before I go into this I want to make something clear. It is NOT headers!! a 4 cylinder car only has ONE manifold, thus it is called a HEADER!! I get VERY upset when people say this wrong. Why? I have no idea. At any rate, it is far more politically correct to say Exhaust manifold or, simply, manifold anyway, so please do us all a favor and try to expand your vocabulary pallet and use this term instead. Now that my rant is finished, on to the point at hand. After much searching and research I have come to a rather unfortunate conclusion. There are none worth buying. Your best bet as to getting a manifold that actually does something besides make your engine bay look like 50Cent's teeth, is to have one custom made. The best design for our motors is, hands-down, a tubular design. Just find an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend pipe and have them make you a tubular manifold using 1.5" pipe for runners. Don't ask me for a price, since it will be different with each shop.
C) Intake OK. First a little lesson in the types of intakes. There are two major types, short ram intakes (SRI) and cold air intakes (CAI). Theoretically the latter of the two SHOULD make more power due to the fact that colder air yields to better combustion, however the reality of this subject is not too compliant with theory. In small engines it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter. THE BEST intake I have found for the 4G37 is made by a company called Cosmo Racing. It only costs 99.75 USD + shipping and fits nicely. http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=131&pid=394
D) Spark Plugs - NGK. 'Nuff said. Go to your local parts store and pick up a set. Not too expensive. Also, the only ones that are available pre-gapped are the BRP6ES-11's, however, if you wish to go colder there are some BRP7ES-11's from other motors that will fit, but they will require you to gap them yourself, however, that is rather easy.
That about covers bolt-ons. I know it isn't much, but do you see now why your only real choice is to boost?
The next part off this section is internal mods. These are probably the hardest mods to do if you do them yourself, however, they are crucial for a turbo build, and will give you some decent gains in a N/A build.
A) Bore - The factory bore of the 4G37 is 80.5942mm (80.6mm), if you bore this out a bit, you can force some extra ponies out of your block. the MAX I would bore it out is .060 over but even that is pushing it. Any more than that and you will be seeing coolant jackets. With my setup I will be boring it .040 over. That seems to be a safe bore while still throwing some nice numbers.
Forged Pistons - There really are no forged pistons for the 1.8L. However, there are a couple options. Ross and Weisco are both reputable names in the DSM world and both of them are so gracious as to offer a custom piston option. If you give them the specs you want they will fab them up and send them to your door for the small fee of 495 USD. Go ahead, send them a thank you e-mail. You know you want to. Before you go ordering though, I should probably inform you on what you are looking for. If you are going N/A you want some higher compression pistons. If I was truly building a Solid N/A motor and had absolutely NO plans to EVER go turbo, I would probably go with 10:1 or 11:1 pistons. This will allow for lesser volumetric efficiency and net some decent hp and torque gains. Also note that if you decided to bore your cylinders then you will need to take that into account when ordering. If you plan on going turbo, best bet is anywhere form 8:1 to 9:1. The higher the compression ration, the more power will be output, however, the higher comp ratio, the harder it is to tune and the mores tress is put on your internals. I am personally going 9:1 on my build.
C) Stroke - No, this is not what your grandfather suffers after being scared, this is the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The factory stroke of the 4G37 is 86mm. Aside from a custom made crankshaft (Since there are none available for the 4G37) there is really no way of changing this.
D) Connecting Rods - The 4G37 rods are actually [pretty strong. from the factory, the rods are siad to support 300whp, however, if you still want to upgrade, the only real option is to have them custom made. Pauter does some very nice custom rods, but they are rather expensive (~850 USD). Unless you are goin all out and not leaving a single component untouched, there is no reason that the factory rods won't suffice, however, even if you decide upon this option, I would still reccomend getting some new Eagle OEM spec rods. You never know how much life is actually left on your stock rods.
E) Camshaft - http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...mitsu-cams.html Schneider is the ONLY company that makes camshafts for the 4G37, and event hese are simply regrinds. Since, ideally, when it comes to cams you want some that will work all the way to the red line plus a little over the red line, the best option they have is the 3000-7000rpm option. However, this really depends on your personal preference.
F) Valves/Valve Springs/Retainers - Whenever you go with a different grind cam, it is standard practice to upgrade your valves, springs, and retainers, as well. To my knowledge there are no aftermarket valvetrain components other than camshafts that are supplied for the 4g37, so your only option here is to go custom... again. There are three different materials used in these components: I) Titanium - This is the best, hands down, however, it is also the most expensive. Thes eare VERY lightweight, thus allowing you to safely rev much higher than you would be able to with other materials. II) Stainless Steel (SS) - SS is VERY durable, and least prone to breaking, however, because they are SS, they are rather ehavy compared to other materials, thus limiting your rev capabilities. III) Steel - This is what most factory components are made from. it is not as lightweight as titanium, but at the same time it is not as heavy as SS, however, it is also the least durable of all materials.
G) Port/Polished Head - Since, from the factory, the VE of the 4G37 is only 78% (compared to the 4G63's ~89%), your main focus should be getting this as close to $100 as possible. Something that REALLY helps is porting and polishing hte head. the factory size of the intake/exhaust passages of the 4G37's head is 1.25". Most enthusiasts choose to port them out to 1.5" for increased airflow. I will be going this size with my build, as well.
H) Knife-Edged Crankshaft - Since odds are your motor has many miles on it, when rebuilding the motor, you should MAKE SURE to have your crankshaft knife-edged. this will smooth out all of the nicks and scratches on it and make it flawless again, which will help performance a bit and keep your motor running nicely. More of a maintenance mod than a performance mod.
I) Head Studs - A common practice on ANY built motor is to replace the factory head bolts with aftermarket head studs. Most of you are probabl;y asking, "WTF is the difference?", well the difference is this, when you torque down head bolts they expand, thus rendering them usless if you ever remove the head again, meaning you will have to buy new ones. Head studs are stronger and do not expand upon torquing, meaning they will last you forever. The best brand out there is ARP. However, no brands make them for the 4G37, let alone one as prestigious as ARP. There is, however, an alternative. If you drill/tap the holes on the head/block to accomodate for the size of the ARP head studs for the 4G63, you can use them.
I bid you farewell for now, since I have loads of homework to do and it's currently 9PM, however, in my next installment I will cover the turbo build!
EDIT: I fixed a few obvious grammatical errors and typos.
I found this at dsm.org I can provide detailed instructions on how to remove the door panels if needed...
Power window fix for 1G DSMs
So you've noticed that your power windows have slowed down a lot, or the window seems to be popping out of its' track and not sealing when it gets to the top of its' travel. This is usually caused by: · Loose fasteners on the window system · Dirty window tracks The fixes are, in increasing order of difficulty: 1. Clean and lube the rubber channels in the window frame everywhere you can get to them without tearing the door apart. Do this by getting any rubber/vinyl cleaner, putting it on a rag, and wiping the channels until the rag comes out clean. This may take a LOT of cleaning. Then lube with NuVinyl, anti-static ArmorAll, or even dielectric grease (YES, this grease works well and does not gum up if put on VERY lightly and then rubbed off). 2. Remove the door panel, and clean/lube the bottom section of the rubber channels you couldn't get to in #1. This will take raising and lowering the window to get all the areas. 3. Check the bolts that hold the window to the window bracket (this is the potmetal bracket that sandwiches the glass and rides on the guide bar) to make sure they are not loose. This rarely happens, but I have seen it happen. 4. Loosen the bolts that hold the guide bar (the mostly vertical tubular bar that the window bracket rides on) to the door, and move it forward or back to get the window to go up perfectly straight (not a lot of adjustment here, but it doesn't take much). 5. Loosen the window guides (the metal brackets covered in bristly material) a little so they don't push on the window so hard. Do these in order. If 1 doesn't work, try 2, etc. If you do all of these, you are pretty much guaranteed your windows will work properly (they have on the half-dozen DSMs I have done it to). I will try to add pics of the above steps the next time I have to work on the windows for a DSM.
For those of you having a problem with your power windows going off track, I recently had to fix this problem on my car that required a bit of work to resolve. If your problem is a slow moving window, a shot of silicone spray in the end guide tracks works great for me. The problem I'm refering to is related to the window not sealing properly at the top of its travel. I had a gap at the upper left corner of the drivers window (viewing it from inside the car). This applies to 1st gen. cars - don't know about newer cars.
There is a window "lift track" in the center of the door that allows for adjustment of the window attitude as it ascends and descends the length of the track. This adjustment entails loosening the top and bottom securing bolts and moving the track laterally to change the window attitude. The adjustment is made at the top bolts. Problem is, there's a *minimal* amount of adjustment (and I mean minimal). The top two holes are slotted to allow a small amount of left/right movement of the track which, in my case, wasn't enough to correct the problem. You may have enough adjustment to correct your problem and can stop here. In my case, I had to widen the slotted holes until the right window attitude was achieved. For this I used a Dremel tool with a grinding bit which took all of a few seconds. I suppose a rat tail file would be OK too but there's not alot of room to file.
The final adjustment is really trial and error of adjusting the lift track, then observing the window along its travel as you raise and lower it until you've got things just right. Keep at it until there's no binding of the window along its travel and you get a nice tight seal at the top. While you're in there, give the end guide tracks a shot of silicone spray. Worked wonders for me. (Best attempt at ASCII representation follows):
^ \ \ Window travel (up/down along lift track) \ \ v ----------- (Widen the slots at these two bolts \ \ for increased adjustment travel) <-- \ o o \ --> Lateral adjustment changes window attitude \ \ \ \ \ lift \ \ track \ o = Bolts \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ o o \ (Loosen these bolts to adjust. This is \ \ just a pivot point for the track) -----------
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>What is the 60K tuneup?</span>
60k tune up is when your car reaches a mileage divisible by 60. IE 60, 120, 180, 240(if it lives this long ) At this point anything "perishable" should be inspected and/or replaced. Anything that could cause engine damage by not inspecting is a mandatory item and is in bold
1. Timing belt, pulleys, tensioner 2. Spark plugs and wires 3. Struts and coil springs 4. Brakes 5. Oil, drain plug, oil leaks 6. Coolant 7. Tires 8. Suspension 9. Exhaust system 10. turbo shaft play (if applicable) 11. Air filter 12. Transmission filter and oil (filter applicable to automatics only)
1. Maintenance records 2. DRIVE IT!!!! 3. Body damage 4. Metal shavings in oil 5. Severely rusted brakes 6. Fluid spots where the vehicle is sitting 7. Tire pressure 8. Owners manual 9. Mods: aftermarket products - turbo, injectors, gauges, air fuel controllers, ETC. Anything you think is out of the ordinary ask the seller 10. Severely worn tires (specifically grooves/cuts that circle the tread) 11. Rubber on lower body panels 12. Smoke out of the exhaust 13. Engine/suspension/transmission noises 14. Sloppy shifting 15. Coolant contaminants 16. Sellers eagerness/pushiness to sell 17. Seller seems nervous as you inspect the vehicle 18. Seller is under 25 years old (don't hate me for this guys, you know you beat your cars until you got older ) 19. Caked oil and dirt in unusual places under the hood 20. Some oil around valve cover, slight dirt. (usually means they didn't try to overclean the engine bay trying to hide something. dealers do clean, but not "white glove" clean
Why is my overdrive slipping in my automatic trans? How do i replace the end clutches?
I noticed a thread about this a while ago. If you notice your overdrive is slipping in your auto trans the usual cause is that the end clutches have gone bad. Click the link below to find parts and to learn how to replace them
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>420a turbo build / What do I need?</span> -- WRITTEN BY PWEE05
I want to start by saying building an engine is almost like ordering a hamburger. Everyone likes something different and your build should reflect that. If you do decide to build you have complete freedom to build EXACTLY what YOU want. (excluding California R.I.P.)
The 420a (A588) engine is a Chrysler made engine. Good news: Chrysler has been turbo charging cars for over 20 years. Unbelievably started from the K-car platform, don’t laugh, http://www.allpar.com/eek/k/k.html and there is a video floating around of a Dodge Caravan AWD destroying a Camaro SS at the track running a 12.96! Definitely one of the funniest, and most shocking things I’ve ever seen (Soccer Mom meets V8 racer AND WINS!!!). So don’t worry we can make your 420 scream. Bad news: besides oil leaks, you have to spend some money.
The eclipse 420a is very similar and is in some dodge models of the same years with only slight differences. The head is reversed (compared to neons), but building internally will be the same and you can even search for neon, avenger, or sebring parts if you can’t find any for an n/t eclipse. Never hurts to cheat, but make sure they are correct before purchasing.
There is a long list of what you will need for more power but don’t fear, you can turbo a stock 420 car, do so cautiously (I will get into that later). If you look at the below pictures you can clearly see a difference between the connecting rods. The picture to the left is a piston and rod assembly for a stock 420 engine. The other is an aftermarket Eagle made rod which can support over 300hp. The stock rods, obviously, can not take much of a beating and must be replaced if you want higher hp numbers. [attachment=3966:stock_pi..._and_rod.jpg] [attachment=3967:h_beam_rods.jpg] [attachment=3968:piston.jpg] [attachment=3969:high_comp_piston.jpg]
If you take a look at the first piston picture you can see that it has a “dish” in it. This is to reduce compression. The second is a high compression piston for a different engine that is only here to give a comparison. The stock 420 engine has a compression ratio of 9.6:1. A stock turbo car will be somewhere around 8.3/8.5:1 compression. Under boost periods cylinder pressures will increase because you are forcing air and fuel into the cylinder, thus the need for pistons providing a lower beginning compression ratio. Stronger metal composition doesn’t hurt either.
With turbo applications you do not necessarily need an intercooler if you are scrounging for money. HOWEVER, without an intercooler you MUST keep the mixture rich and low boost to keep from predetonation. THIS WILL DESTROY YOUR ENGINE!!!!!! It's a hard thing to avoid without an intercooler so lets just say, you need one.
Another thing that some shops do with turbo builds is allow a little bit more space between the piston and the cylinder wall than is normal. This will let the piston safely expand under boost periods, caused by increased heat. I am mentioning this because sometimes you can hear the piston “slap” against the cylinder walls and it may be interpreted as something else.
On to a list of things you should do to build your 420 for pressure. This does not include machining of the block/head and/or labor: Stronger connecting rods------------------------Air fuel controller (AFC) or some other type of tuning device Stronger pistons and rings-----------------------Larger fuel injectors Metal head gasket---------------------------------Larger fuel pump ARP head studs can’t hurt------------------------High flow exhaust - (for a lower hp build you can use bolts)-------Fuel management unit (FMU) a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator is best(AFPR) Turbo charger--------------------------------------Turbo manifold to fit your turbo Oil lines---------------------------------------------Coolant lines depending on your turbo Down pipe or O2 housing-------------------------Wastegate if not internal Blow off valve (BOV)------------------------------Boost gauge Boost controller------------------------------------MAP sensor check valve (missing link) (if higher boost is desired) new rod and main bearings Suggestions Upgraded ignition system-------------------------Vacuum line Light weight crank pulley-------------------------Copper 110 exhaust gaskets new oil pump--------------------------------------new O2 sensors turbo timer ----------------------------------------new water pump timing belt, pulleys, tensioner--------------------new seals Intercooler-----------------------------------------Charge pipes
To give a comparison this is what I have in my engine. JE 8.6:1 pistons and rings-------------------Eagle Rods Clevitte main and rod bearings-------------ARP main studs ARP head bolts-------------------------------Felpro head gasket and seals Melling oil pump------------------------------Stage V port and polish crane stainless valve springs----------------Crane titanium retainers Accel 30lb/hour fuel injectors----------------Prothane engine and trans mount bushings Walbro 255lph fuel pump---------------------FMU Apexi AFCII-----------------------------------Screaming deamin coil pack Crane firewire spark plug wires------------Ac delco double platinum spark plugs ported stock intake manifold------------------------Treadstone cast turbo manifold Knock off BOV----------------------------------XO2 22x12x3 bar and plate intercooler Missing link MAP-----------------------------AEM UEGO wideband Crane camshafts - Intake Duration 250@006 Lift .374 inch, Exhaust Duration 250@006 Lift .374 inch Removed air conditioning & power steering (by choice, not necessary) Garrett t3 super 60 (35lb/min) turbo (fast spooler) My own welded and fabbed charge pipes using stainless exhaust pipe And of course I replaced all of the preventive things I mentioned earlier.
I built this way because I like the sound of a very rough, loping idle and using the very efficient eclipse suspension for tearing up turns. I wanted a turbo that would spool quickly out of turns and power to fly away down straight aways. I will, for now, not be going over 250whp.
Now, I promised you I would get into turbo charging a stock 420. This is treading thin ice but you can do it. Low pressures and low volume turbos are key. You still need to upgrade your fuel and exhaust system: Fuel pump-----------------------------Injectors AFC------------------------------------FMU Missing link----------------------------High flow exhaust BOV------------------------------------Wastegate if not internal Manifold--------------------------------Turbo O2 housing and/or downpipe---------Boost controller Charge pipe----------------------------Oil and possibly coolant lines
The turbo can be 14b, t25, SMALL 16g, gt 28 will work fine but please keep the boost under 8psi. You can’t get over 225whp (guesstimate) for very long on a stock engine without a big BOOM. This gets back to the weak rods and compression set up for an engine supposed to only see natural aspiration.
Always watch your exhaust gas temps (EGT’s) and if you have the luxury of a 4-lead O2 sensor keep an eye on that too. If it reads below .92 volts you are getting too lean. A dyno and an AEM UEGO Wideband O2 is the best way to tune, but you can do it with a long stretch of highway, a heavy foot and voltmeter. WATCH FOR COPS!!!
If you are wondering about costs, this could take all day because of the variety of places offering parts and services. Let’s just say that the total amount I have in the engine and turbo set up I could buy a small island. (around $5k but you can get away with around $2500.00 if you stay stock) If you ask me, “was worth it?” I would tell you definitely.
To touch briefly on bolt-ons, if you buy out the entire stock of all bolt-ons available for this engine you will only increase to “a noticeable difference.” It is a good place to start learning though.
The sky is the limit but make sure you know what you are doing, and if you don’t just ask for help like I did. Slowboy racing put my bottom end together, ported and polished my head and has taught me so much, but I still don’t know everything. Everyone has to start somewhere and if I missed something please don’t hesitate to correct.
--The above article was written by pwee05
QUOTE (95-2fast4u-GS @ Jun 8 2006, 12:22 AM)
ok almighty god of 420a knowledge and wisdom... here i am worshiping your altar and paying homage wondering a few things of my own. SO i got this stock 420a with some megan headers and no name CAI and some iridium plugs. Other than that, WAAAAAAAAY to slow for a guy like me. I want to turbo the life out of it. However i was reading stuff on here and found out i can get 200hp from n/a? such as the tune of a stroker and piston heads? I wondering, seeing as the throttle respnse for n/a is much better, how much power COULD i squeeze out n/a? I know all about bigger TBs and Intake mani's but i really am curious how much i could get. cause im looking for like 350 hopefuly even 400 broad chested stallions out of this thing. my backup plan is to hand it to my shop and say have fun, this plan includes a turbo and lots of financing. SO to the point, i wanna know if its possible to pull 300 or so horses out of n/a and if i could do 400 with a big **** turbo and say less than ten g's or there-abouts. I do know that i would have to do pistons head cams crank clutches axles and the like, but i think if you could help by giving some insight, it would settle much easier in my tummy. gracias amigo.
QUOTE (pwee05 @ Jun 8 2006, 11:45 AM)
I'm sure there are people out there that have more knowledge than I do but I'll take the worship
anyway, to your question. 200bhp is probably the limit when staying N/A. unless you can figure out a way to get the compression above 12.5 : 1 inject with methanol and make that **** squeal. It is possible with a 2.4L to get above 200bhp n/a but there just isnt't enough displacement in a little 2.0L to do it. even after bore and stroke. I could be wrong though. I just haven't heard of anyone putting enough money into an n/a car to get the horse power that high.
turbo, on the other hand, is a much easier way to increase compression by ramming air and fuel down the cylinders throat. you could have a nasty turbo car for $10k. if you can do some of the work yourself you can get the cost under that because labor is expensive. I have about 8k in mine but did all the work except putting the bottom end in the block and machining. The only problem I have now is worrying about when I will have to pick up my trans with a bucket piece by piece.
Scroll the whole way down to the bottom. There is a dyno slip to prove that the 96 eagle talon shown with the 420a engine makes 460whp on c14 and 340whp on 93 pump gas. so it can be done, it's just a matter of how crazy are you willing to go.
QUOTE (95-2fast4u-GS @ Jun 9 2006, 12:04 AM)
BRAVO!! ...go on take the money and run... I mean the worship. Thanks a ton for the info. I was really just curious. I had totalled up a ROUGH estimate of all that I wanted and guestimated install costs based on the inverse ratio of work to guy by dividing the recpirical of the attendants height by the approximate weight of the turbo and multiplying the difference by the sum of four circles ...and previous work ive had done by this place. and it came out to around 8700 bucks. this excludes ANY work other than making this thing a flowing field of green for the which the stallions to graze upon. so as long as im near the mark i guess the apple is pretty much split, and there is a gash in littel tommys head on which the apple sat. But a couple staples and some super glue, he'll be fine they assured me. Again thank you for your help, im now about to call an artist i know to begin drwaings cause im not that good and because this place is showing an interest in sponsoring me. so i could get labor for free! thanks again pwee. ill look forward to showing off pictures of my steroidal stallion in the future! until next time....
"..rule number 1 no excuses play like a champion!.." -Vince Vaughn (Jeremy Ryan; wedding crashers)
there really is no such thing as a "stage one" turbo. what you mean is a low volume turbo. Think of it as a garden hose and a fire hose both set at 15psi of pressure. how much water do you get from a garden hose at 15 psi and how much you get from a firehose. both have the same pressure but the volume of water that comes out is much different. if you want to stay stock use a small 16g, t25, or 14b turbo. don't go nuts and put a t04 turbo on because it sounds cool and has been used in movies. this will destroy your engine in a blaze of glory if it ever spools
QUOTE (pwee05 @ Sep 9 2006, 06:16 PM)
don't oversize the valves just get stock replacements if you plan on replacing them. if you have the machine work done right to the head you won't need to replace the valves, only springs and retainers. I would go stainless springs and titanium retainers
the basic thing you should understand is that First Generation (1G) NonTurbo (NT) Eclipses have the Mitsu 4G63, 2G NT Eclipses have the Chrysler 420A, and all of the 1G and 2G Eclipses have the Mitsu 4G63T. All trim levels have FWD, except the GSX, which is AWD (or the TSi AWD for Talons).
I finished the job of putting the battery in the trunk. It was a pain. It does work though. It took me and my friend about 6 hours. Mainly because we'd never done it before. If anyone wants an explanation of how to do it just ask. I will elaborate.
4 User(s) are browsing this forum (4 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
New Replies No New Replies Hot Topic (New) Hot Topic (No New)
Poll (New) Poll (No New) Locked Topic Moved Topic
Time is now: 23rd November 2014 - 03:56 PM
(c) 2004 Mitsubishi-Forums. All rights reserved.
Mitsubishi-Forums.com is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mitsubishi Motors.