4G37 Specifications
Specifications For The Mitsubishi 4G37

General
1) Displacement – 1755cc
2) Number of valves – 8
3) Cam Layout – Single Overhead Cam (SOHC)
4) Factory Horsepower – 92
5) Volumetric Efficiency – 78%

Engine
1) Bore – 80.6mm (3.17in.)
2) Stroke – 86mm (3.39in.)
3) Compression Ratio – 9.5:1
4) Connecting Rod Journal Diameter – 44.983mm (1.771in.)
5) Connecting Rod Bearing Oil Clearance – 0.02032 to 0.0508mm (0.0008 to 0.0020in.)
6) Connecting Rod Endplay (Side Clearance) – 0.09906 to 0.24892mm (0.0039 to 0.0098in.)

Valvetrain
1) Intake Valve:
A) Opens(BTDC) – 20”
Closes (ATDC) – 52”
2) Exhaust Valve:
A) Opens (BTDC) – 55”
Closes (ATDC)—17⁰

Ignition
1) Firing Order—1342 (Clockwise from bottom)
2) Cylinder Order –4321 (Left to Right)

-All rights to this guide belong exclusively to Jon Bonazza. All unauthorized use or reproduction is punishable by law.

Ok, With the increase in questions reaguarding the 1.8L recently, I felt it was in the forum's best interest to have a 1.8L FAQ (We have one for ever other engine, why not this one?) I am going to try to go as detailed in this as possible.

I am going to start this off with what seems to be the most popular question regaurding the 4G37 (1.8L) engine.


To be blunt, there is really only one option to make this engine fast. Turbo. Now mind you, this option is NOT for the faint of heart. It requires A LOT of custom work, researching, time, and most of all, cursing. I will go into more detail with this in another section but for now, let me give you some links to basic bolt-ons that will help a little (And I stress the term "little".)

A.) Cat-back Exhaust System - The building block for all performance on any car. The very first performance mod you should do. We have all heard of this in one way or another. Weather it's driving down the street only to hear the cry of a "pissed off bumblebee", or learning about it in your college's Fluid Dynamics course. Whatever the reason, you NEED this no matter what your goals are. However, with this said, the type of exhaust you choose is rather strait-forward. The first thing you are going to need is a performance muffler. There is a WIDE variety of these out here, but how do you know which ones actually work? Well, to answer your question, There aren't many. The ones that are pretty popular in the DSM scene tend to be as follows: Magnaflow, Megan Racing, Apexi N1, HKS Ti, Tsudo and off the top of my head that about covers it. I am sure there are more, but the best advice I can give you is simply try to stay away from knock-offs, whether it be from Ebay or elsewhere. The next exhaust piece you are going to want is a high-flow cat (Catalytic Converter.) Again, there are many, many brands of these but the two that people tend to trust most are Magnaflow, and Megan Racing. Both are relatively cheap. The last piece of the cat-back system is the piping. This piece (or pieces if you will) is a VERY touchy subject. There is a lot of debate as to whether the back pressure of a naturally aspirated motor needs back-pressure or not. Some will tell you that it does need it for various reason, while some will say get as big of pipe as you can. I, personally, don't know what to believe on this subject, but I will say one thing: there is no reason why you would need bigger than 2.5" pipe on a N/A vehicle. With this said, if you are turbocharged, or are planning to in the future, then I would get 3" pipe. It will allow the engine to breath better while raising your volumetric efficiency even farther past 100%.

Exhaust Manifold (Header) - Ok, before I go into this I want to make something clear. It is NOT headers!! a 4 cylinder car only has ONE manifold, thus it is called a HEADER!! I get VERY upset when people say this wrong. Why? I have no idea. At any rate, it is far more politically correct to say Exhaust manifold or simply, manifold anyway, so please do us all a favor and try to expand your vocabulary pallet and use this term instead. Now that my rant is finished, on to the point at hand. After much searching and research I have come to a rather unfortunate conclusion. These are rare, very, VERY rare. Your best bet as to getting a manifold that actually does something besides make your engine bay look like 50Cent's teeth, is to have one custom made. The best design for our motors is, hands-down, a tubular design. RP Fabrications (http://www.rpfabrications.com/) makes a very nice affordable manifold. Check them out. Your only other option is to just find an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend pipe and have them make you a tubular manifold using 1.5" pipe for runners. Don't ask me for a price, since it will be different with each shop.

C) Intake OK. First a little lesson in the types of intakes. There are two major types, short ram intakes (SRI) and cold air intakes (CAI). Theoretically the latter of the two SHOULD make more power due to the fact that colder air yields to better combustion, however the reality of this subject is not too compliant with theory. In small engines it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter. THE BEST intake I have found for the 4G37 is made by a company called Cosmo Racing. It only costs 99.75 USD + shipping and fits nicely.
http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=131&pid=394

D) Spark Plugs - NGK. 'Nuff said. Go to your local parts store and pick up a set. Not too expensive. Also, the only ones that are available pre-gapped are the BRP6ES-11's, however, if you wish to go colder there are some BRP7ES-11's from other motors that will fit, but they will require you to gap them yourself, however, that is rather easy. Just keep in mind that you shouldn't really go colder unless you are running boost.

E) Spark plug wires - Honestly, there really aren't any "performance" plug wires out there. The best advice Ic an give you is to head over to http://www.sparkplugs.com/ and grab a set of NGK wires. They are pretty much OEM replacement, but NGK have been proven over and over on many different motors and are hands down the best brand out there. Besides,, they come with a nice warranty to boot.

That about covers bolt-ons. I know it isn't much, but do you see now why your only real choice is to boost?

The next part off this section is internal mods. These are probably the hardest mods to do if you do them yourself, however, they are crucial for a turbo build, and will give you some decent gains in a N/A build.

A) Bore - The factory bore of the 4G37 is 80.57mm (80.6mm), if you bore this out a bit, you can force some extra ponies out of your block. the MAX I would bore it out is .060 over but even that is pushing it. Any more than that and you will be seeing coolant jackets. If you plan to turbo it and shoot for higher HP numbers, I would just take off as little as you can to perfect the cylinder walls. This way you have less of a chance of cracking the block.

Forged Pistons - There really are no forged pistons for the 1.8L. However, there are a couple options. Ross and Weisco are both reputable names in the DSM world and both of them are so gracious as to offer a custom piston option. If you give them the specs you want they will fab them up and send them to your door for the small fee of 495 USD. Go ahead, send them a thank you e-mail. You know you want to. Before you go ordering though, I should probably inform you on what you are looking for. If you are going N/A you want some higher compression pistons. If I was truly building a Solid N/A motor and had absolutely NO plans to EVER go turbo, I would probably go with 10:1 or 11:1 pistons. This will allow for hbetter volumetric efficiency and net some decent hp and torque gains. Also note that if you decided to bore your cylinders then you will need to take that into account when ordering. If you plan on going turbo, best bet is anywhere form 8:1 to 9:1. The higher the compression ration, the more power will be output, however, the higher comp ratio, the harder it is to tune and the more stress is put on your internals. There is also another option. IPP (Import Performance Parts) offers a "performance rebuild kit". It includes wiseco piston made to order along with various other nice little pieces.
Here is the link: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...mitsubishi.html

C) Stroke - No, this is not what your grandfather suffers after being scared, this is the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The factory stroke of the 4G37 is 86mm. Aside from a custom made crankshaft (Since there are none available for the 4G37) there is really no way of changing this.

D) Connecting Rods - The 4G37 rods are actually pretty strong. from the factory, the rods are said to support 300whp, however, if you still want to upgrade, the only real options is to either have them custom made (Pauter does some very nice custom rods, but they are rather expensive [~850 USD]) or have your factory rods cryo-treated (This is MUCH cheaper). Unless you are goin' all out and not leaving a single component untouched, there is no reason that the factory rods won't suffice, however, even if you decide upon the latter option, I would still recommend getting some new Eagle OEM spec rods. You never know how much life is actually left on your stock rods.

E) Camshaft - http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...mitsu-cams.html Schneider is the ONLY company that makes camshafts for the 4G37, and event these are simply regrinds. Since, ideally, when it comes to cams you want some that will work all the way to the red line plus a little over the red line, the best option they have is the 3000-7000rpm option. However, this really depends on your personal preference.

F) Valves/Valve Springs/Retainers - Whenever you go with a different grind cam, it is standard practice to upgrade your valve springs as well. To my knowledge there are no aftermarket valvetrain components other than camshafts that are supplied for the 4g37, so your only option here is to go custom... again. There are four different materials used in these components:
I) Titanium - This is the best, hands down, however, it is also the most expensive. These are VERY lightweight, thus allowing you to safely rev much higher than you would be able to with other materials.
II) Stainless Steel (SS) - SS is VERY durable, and least prone to breaking, however, because they are SS, they are rather heavy compared to other materials, thus limiting your rev capabilities.
III) Steel - This is what most factory components are made from. it is not as lightweight as titanium, but at the same time it is not as heavy as SS, however, it is also the least durable of all materials.
IV) Chromeolly(sp?) - These are second to Titanium when it comes to performance. They are lighter than the SS, while not as light as titanium, but they are stronger than titanium, while not as strong as SS. These are your all around springs.
When it comes to valves, a lot of people like to run oversized valves. I do not recommend this, as the 4G motors have very low valve clearance to begin with and milling the head enough to run even 1mm oversized valves creates the possibility for piston tap.

G) Port/Polished Head - Since, from the factory, the VE of the 4G37 is only 78% (compared to the 4G63's ~89%), your main focus should be getting this as close to 100% as possible. Something that REALLY helps is porting and polishing the head. the factory size of the intake/exhaust passages of the 4G37's head is 1.25". Most enthusiasts choose to port them out to 1.5" for increased airflow.
Keep in mind that if you go turbo, your VE will be over 100%. Port and polishing the head just further escalates that value.

H) Knife-Edged Crankshaft - Since odds are your motor has many miles on it, when rebuilding the motor, you should MAKE SURE to have your crankshaft knife-edged. this will smooth out all of the nicks and scratches on it and make it flawless again, which will help performance a bit and keep your motor running nicely. More of a maintenance mod than a performance mod.

I) Head Studs - A common practice on ANY built motor is to replace the factory head bolts with aftermarket head studs. Most of you are probably asking, "WTF is the difference?", well the difference is this, when you torque down head bolts they expand, thus rendering them useless if you ever remove the head again, meaning you will have to buy new ones. Head studs are stronger and do not expand upon torquing, meaning they will last you forever. The best brand out there is ARP. However, no brands make them for the 4G37, let alone one as prestigious as ARP. There is, however, an alternative. If you drill/tap the holes on the head/block to accommodate for the size of the ARP head studs for the 4G63, you can use them. Just make sure you only drill 3/4" down as the studs are shorter for the 4G63 than the 4G37.


-All rights to this guide belong exclusively to Jon Bonazza. All unauthorized use or reproduction is punishable by law.

I am Admin/Founder of a 4G37 specific forum called 4G37Tuners. There are a number of people who are very knowledgeable of the 4G37 platform and, if you can't find you info here, I suggest you check it out. Please keep in mind, however, that Mitsubishi-Forums is also a very good place for info, so don't disband it entirely if you can't find one solution here. I am just throwing this link up as an alternative.

http://www.4g37Tuners.com/


Thanks,

Jon

Recently i test drove a '90 turbo eclipse gs. The car was in fairly good shape cosmetically, and ran smooth, but there was an issue with the clutch. When i set down in the car and shifted I instantly ground the gears a little. It felt like i was pretty much pushing the clutch through the floor boards in order to shift without grinding gears which lead me to believe that the car needed to have the clutch replaced. I was bummed 'cause the combination of my low budget and the replacement of the clutch just didn't agree.

so my question is; does anyone drive a '90 turbo rs? and if so, does your clutch act similarly?

I have a 92 eclipse 1.8, just swapped motors cause the one that was in it was bad, i cant figure out what is going on with her now. here is a rundown of my problem. I swapped the motor hooked everything up, got the timing right, and now i am only getting fuel to 2 cylinders, numbers one and two. i swapped computers, i swapped injectors, now i am at a loss as to what is wrong. please help me. i will try anything.

Ok, so I got my new AFPR in, and the car is running (after much finagling), but when I am driving, if I accelerate quickly, there is a "machine gun" sound/feeling in the car in the following rpm bands and gears:

1st gear : none

2nd gear: 3500 - 5000 rpm

3rd gear: 2500 - 4500 rpm

4th gear: not tested

5th gear: not tested

Any idea what this could be?

There is a slight kink in the metal tube that comes out of the fuel sending unit and connects to the lower fuel sending line (pump to filter), but it is very slight, and fuel should be able to easily flow past it, especially 255lph at 40psi.

Another question:

Now that I have the walbro 255, do I have to change my BFP from the factory 37-39psi? It is set at ~39-40 psi atm, but I can easily change that if need be. Keep in mind, I am still N/A, so there is no excess air (aka boost) entering the chambers...

Ok, so I have a small, yet VERY annoying vacuum leak in my engine. I can't seem to find it by sight/sound and since it's the weekend, I can't go out to get the shit to build a VLT. I am gonna go tomorrow to get the stuff t make one, but for now, I have narrowed it down by hearing to a general area. It's comeing from the area near the fuel rail on the driver's side.

For those of you who don't know the layout of the 4G37, the parts in this area are the following:
-fuel rail
-OEM Fuel Pressure Reglator location (I have an aftermarket one mounted to the firewall, so there is only a SS line connected to this, not the FPR itself)
-intake manifold gasket
-valve cover/gasket
-PCV valve
-vacuum line going from PCV valve to the intke manifold
-vacuum line going from intake manifold to FPR
-injectors


That about covers it.

Here is what I think to be a clue. The whistling sound only occurs when the engine is within operating temperature. if it falls below that point, it is no longer audible. Whether or not the vacuum leak is still occuring when the noise is not audible, however, is unknown to me.

Any ideas?

i thought the 1.8t engine was a 4g63t..... never herd of the 4g37

Hi ,I have a 1993 eclipse 1.8.I have replaced the ecm,and the car will run with a shot of starting fluid.I have no power to the fuel pump.I would like to know where to start and if you could direct me to where the parts are to be checked.This is a project for my 14 year old son and we are really scratching our heads on this please help us we are losing the battle and my sons interest.

Hi, I was thinking about rebuilding my engine when I can save up for it and was wondering how hard / long it would take.


Also if I rebuild the engine I was wondering about putting a turbo on it... What all would need to be replaced? Would the tranny be able to hold it? Its a 5 speed manual.


Thanks for all your help.

My Fucking 93 Laser was stolen and wrecked. There goes my new project...

Hey thanks for having me on the forum ! Ok car has been sitting and clutch seems to be frozen or inoperable . I have pedal but car will not dissengage when running in gear . The slave has throw but still no release . I would like to race this car at the grassroots challenge www.fastpitstops.com ,<,,,,,,,,>>>> Is it the clutch /throwout/pressure plate and what is approximate cost of parts ?? Or is the tranny shot
? Any Help would be apprciated challenge is in 20 days or so



Thanks again and hello to evryone on the board !!

I did a quick search, didn't see anything on this...

My question is very simple.

My dad is much more mechanically inclined then me, would we be able to replace my snapped timing belt on my eclipe ourselves, or would it be easier, and worth it to have a mechanic take care of it? I got a quote from a guy out here who said he could tow it and do the work for 300$...does this sound like a reasonable price? Just wanted some input.

Thanks.

recently i bought my first eclipse a 92 1.8 liter. i bought the car i knew the motor would have to be rebuilt for it didnt run at all. and after getting the whole motor torn apart i take the block to the machine shop and learn that its trash. so now im looking for EITHER a 1.8L or a 2L if u have one layin arould or no any one who does please let me know ive got cash on hand thanks for reading

Hi, I was just wondering how much it would cost for a rebuilt turbo engine with everything for it to run turbo fine to be installed on a 91 eclipse 1.8L non turbo. Everything included with installation? If anyone knows please let me know.

Would it be cheaper to just buy a used turbo eclipse?

ok, my left blinker blinks really fast wile the right blinks normal, I have changed the fuse and both the front and back bulbs. I have found no tears or anything weird along the wires. Any thoughts?

Im changing the oil tomorrow in the 93 laser I picked up. It has 170k on the odometer. So should I go up to 10w40?

Hi, I recently did the distributor on sat. I wanted to know how you can tell if the timing is messed up? Because now my idle is a little weird but im thinking its because im still waiting for my IAC Valve. Started it today idle went normal first like 5 sec it was down to 500 and then jumped up to 1000 but then went back down to like 600.

Thanks

I was just wondering if the engine/ set up in my 93 Plymouth Laser (1.8L N/A Manual) is the same as the eclipse and talon? do they all use Mitsubishi's 4g37 and a SOHC setup? and is the Manual Trans the same? This will help me find parts because not allot is advertised for the Laser. Its the lesser known of the DSMs afterall.

Ok, my car has always had a popping noise form the exhaust, however, since I have reinstalled the manifold and had these idle problems it has become much worse. It is not like a continuous backfire. Could this be caused by a faulty head gasket or be related to the screwy idle in some way? I have searched and there are a few threads on this, but none have an answer.. they are all just a bunch of people guessing and no confirmation. If it is probably not related to these two things, what do you guys suggest it could be?

EDIT: My plugs and wires are less than 2 months old and I don't think they would be a problem since I didn't touch them during the manifold removal and installation. Normally a backfire is caused by running really rich and my fuel economy has been pretty bad lately. I am thinking maybe my fuel filter. It hasn't been changed in like 30000 miles. Not sure why it would happen right after the IM removal/installation, tho.

The idea of turbocharging the 1.8 started back in 2001 when I bought the car at the age of 14. The project didn't take of till about 2005 when I bought my SRT-4 which took over the daily driver position. That's when the challenge began, Since there's absolutely no aftermarket for the 1.8. After months a research I found a few companies willing to make custom parts for the 1.8. I ordered all the parts needed to build the motor. After getting all my parts the machine shop was a bit hesitant to bore my motor .060 over but I talked them into doing it. It turned out fine. The machine shop was very impressed with my port work on my head that he was asking me to work with him lol. After a few months of tinkering I got the car running. After tuning the car I had problems holding headgaskets under boost. I went through about 3 head gaskets in 2 weeks. I later took the car of the road do to financial issues. Now I'm tweaking the car hoping to get all the power potential out of it.


Motor:
1.8 liter 4G37
O-Ringed Block
Block bored .060 over
Wiseco 82mm 8.8 to 1 compression pistons
Cryo treated stock rods
Knife edged crankshaft
Toga high volume oil pump
Balance shafts removed
Ported cylinder head 1 1/2" intake and exhaust ports (stock is 1 1/4")
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
RP Fabrications Valve Springs
Polished Valves
280/280 reground cam
Unorthodox under drive pulley
Mustang 65mm throttle body
RP Fabrications Intake Manifold

Ignition:
Ford EDIS
Accel Ford EDIS Coil
NGK Plugs
NGK spark plug wire

Fuel:
Precision 550cc Injectors
Walbro HP 255lph Fuel Pump
-6an Fuel Feed Line
-6an Fuel Return Line
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Drive train:
Fidanza axles
Clutch masters Stage 4 4 puck unsprung clutch
SBR LSD insert

Engine Management:
Megasquirt II PCB3.0
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor


Turbo:
RP Fabrications Intercooler and Piping
RP Fabrications Top Mount Manifold
T3 50 Trim turbo (Rebuilt with Garret parts)
Tial 38mm v-band Wastegate
Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve


Looking For Sponsors


What I'm looking to pass. This guys 1.8 made 320whp with minimal mods. I'm hoping I can make more then that.





The Old Setup


The 2009 Setup.




Got the manifold fitted up.Things are starting to get tight.




The restoration portion of the project. Yes I have the 4G37 in a AWD chassis and No the car is not going to be AWD.

Removed the gas tank to clean up and paint.


All Painted just need a few more coats and I still need to fix the tank studs.


Next on the agenda is refurbishing the rear subframe and suspension components.



The underneath rear of the car is started to look empty. Still need to rip out all the fuel and brake lines and redo them with SS line and SS Braided Hose. I also started removing the surface rust from underneath so I can undercoat the whole thing.

Hi, I was wondering if you know where the Idle Air Control Valve is on a Eclipse 1.8L BASE.

I was thinking it is the one on the throttle body in the front it has a circle for the bottom and 2 screws and a connector on top but not sure. Thanks.

Hi, My 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L will randomly stall. Sometimes I can drive from point A to point B no problem but sometimes ill either be moving or at a stop light and it the car starts jerking a little and the RPMS are just jumping like crazy and drop down to 0. Sometimes i can start it right after and drive for like a minute and then it stalls again and ill have to wait 5 - 20 mins until I can start it up. I was wondering if anyone else is having this problem because its very annoying being scared to drive your car because u don't know if it'll make it through a photo enforced stoplight or blocking traffic during rush hour. I drive the car as little as possible. I've done fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, air filter, oil change. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump but not quite sure. Would love any info and if this has happened to you if you could tell me what you did to fix it. Its not throwing up any codes check engine light doesn't come on until stall.

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi Everyone,
My car is a 93 Eclipse 1.8L no Engine mods / Automatic. I have some odd problems going on and Im not sure if they are related. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. These all seem to have started about the same day.

First, sometimes when I hit a pump or press the brakes a little fast, or sometimes turning, my car dies. But I can restart it and sometimes it doesnt die enough to need a restart. I noticed that when this happen its a total loose of electrical power as my stereo resets its self. I first thought it was the ends on the battery cable so I replaced them but it sill happens. Im going to take it to Discount Auto and have them check the alternator. I tweaked the idle to keep it around 800rpm (label by it says 700rpm +/- 100. But it still happen which is pretty scary when your on a freeway and everyone is going 70 or more.

Second there seems to be smoke from the tail pipe, I cant really say for sure if its blue or white. Im thinking bluish. The fumes smell more chemical then what fumes from a radiator smell like. It take about 5min from starting the car before the smoke starts. Its not a lot but its enough to notice.

Last its seems my oil pressure has dropped. Normally, when driving the needle is usually right before the droplet on the oil can picture. Now its just after the low mark. I checked the oil and its fine and the cap is sealed tight.
The only thing I havent checked that I just thought about is to check how tight the belts are. I'll have to do that in the morning.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

NOTE: I have decided to move this thread to Mitsu-Media. This is going to be a very picture-heavy thread as time progresses and I think Mitsu-Media would be better because it's centered around pictures and video. Hope this doesn't offend anybody or anything. I'll still keep the base thread here but most of the updates will go to the new thread. It can be found here:

http://www.mitsu-media.com/showthread.php?t=3313

-------------------------------------------------

-4.19.09- Added SAFC and AFRP to the list. Also added the ACT 2100 as a possible clutch. Another picture post, too.

Since I'm really getting into modding my 1.8 Eclipse I decided I'd crank out a little log of all the stuff that'll be going on with it. This will be kinda like the "Birth of a Monster" thread. I've already done some work and put in a little wrench time, nothing serious yet, but I'll add every new thing I do with the car. I'll have pics too, starting tomorrow (well... it's 4am, so, today.) My tax return is coming next week and then it'll be time to get serious.

As you read through the list, keep in mind that I'm always open to suggestions! Any help or ideas would be awesome because I'm learning about my DSM as I go. And if you think my list is missing something important, by all means, please let me know!

Well, let's get the party started.

***INFO***

Make/Model: Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
Year: 1991
Mileage: 211,000
Engine: 1.8L 4G37
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Drivetrain: FWD (Obviously )
Current Color: Navy Blue w/ Sky Blue Metallic Flake. Offset Metallic Silver Stripe. (I think. It looks like these colors to me.)
Options: No sunroof. A/C included. Crank windows.


***PERFORMANCE GOALS***

I think it's important to have goals in any project. Since this is my first Japanese tune, and she was pushing a measly 92-97hp stock, I'm going to try to reach a relatively small and attainable mark.

*This will be a fully N/A build. No forced induction; it's just too expensive and the HP gains are beyond the scope of what I want to do. Plus, all the stuff that goes into a 4G37 turbo setup is a major headache and I don't want to deal with it.
*I'm pushing for around 150hp at the flywheel. I'll be getting the car dyno'd every time I add a few performance mods. If I hit 150hp and I'm only halfway through my list of upgrades I'll think on it and go from there.
*As far as acceleration goes, I just want to build a fun ride that will throw me back in my seat when I want to go and have no trouble passing on the interstate in 5th gear. A bit of wheel spin in 1st is fine, and I'd like it to bark a little when I drop the clutch going into 2nd. I don't want an uncontrollable FWD rocket... yet


***VISUAL GOALS***

*A nice-looking ride, but not over the top; consistency and simplicity. No ridiculous wings, no fugly bodykits (and the extra weight...ugh.) Decently close to OEM without being bland... a sleeper, if you will.


Now that's out of the way. On to the meat of the project.

Here's a list of things already done:

***PERFORMANCE MODS ALREADY DONE***

*Hacked aircan/removed silencer.
*NGK BRP6ES-11 Race Plugs
*MAS chip. It was on the car when I bought it. It seems to be made by a company owned by GReddy, but I doubt it has any impact. I'll probably remove it.


***VISUAL MODS/IMPROVEMENTS/FIXES ALREADY DONE***

*Installed HID fog lights.
*Switched out stock console for a '92+ console, with the lid and cupholder tray.
*New gauge cluster to replace the old crappy one (OEM.)
*Replaced aftermarket shifter (was in the car when I got it) with an OEM pistol-grip shifter. It's so much more comfortable.


***AUDIO MODS/IMPROVEMENTS ALREADY DONE***

*Sony Drive-S MP3/WMA Headunit w/ Pre-amp out and Remote.
*Not shit else The speakers seem to be slightly better than stock, but who knows.


***GENERAL MAINTENANCE ALREADY DONE***

*Replaced valve cover gasket.
*Replaced upper and lower coolant hoses.
*Checked throttle plate to make sure throttle cable is tight and giving 100% when the pedal is floored.


So that's the stuff that's been done.

Now, a list of things I want to do:

***PERFORMANCE MODS TO BE DONE***

Cheap/Easy/Beginner stuff; so these mods will come first:

*Magnecor 8.5mm plug wires.
*Cosmo Racing Short Ram Intake.

Moderately Expensive/Midrange stuff; so these mods will come in the middle somewhere:

*Exhaust: Custom header with 1.5" runners; Megan Racing hi-flow cat and hi-flow muffler; 2.5" piping. Still not sure how to handle the flexpipe issue.
*New clutch; something better than stock. I'm open to ideas (ACT 2100?)
*Schneider 3000-7000 RPM camshaft.
*Bigger injectors and fuel pump, if necessary.
*Engine anti-roll bar, to keep the engine from moving/rotating on it's mounts under load.
*Shorter springs and a camber kit, to lower the car and give better handling.
*Wheels/Tires.
*SAFC and aftermarket AFRP.

Very Expensive/Difficult/Advanced stuff; so these mods will come last:

*Head, Intake, TB port/polish. I'd like to get the volumetric efficiency close to 95%. Anything over 90% would be great.
*Knife-edge crank.
*Bore out, and pistons to match. I'm thinking .020 over, I don't want to get close to the coolant jackets.

Possibilities... Stuff I don't even know if I'd want/need to do:

*Big Brake Kit?


***VISUAL MODS/IMPROVEMENTS/FIXES TO BE DONE***

*I need new front seats. Badly. The front seats I have now are in great shape externally but they are broken inside. They don't slide on the tracks anymore and they don't lean forward or back anymore.
*Aftermarket pedal covers; the stock pedals are worn down pretty bad, the clutch doesn't even have any rubber left. I'm going to go with a basic aluminum set.
*Add some wire-mesh inside the large opening in between the fog lights in the front bumper. It looks ugly just being open like it is.
*SilverStar/Xenon Headlights, to kinda match the HID fog lights. They look yellow in the pictures but they actually give off a white light.
*I'm missing some of the trim pieces for the popup headlight assemblies. So those. Junkyard item, if I luck out.
*New window tint, black. In NC, the lowest allowed light transference is like 32.5%. So I'll probably go with medium tint.
*Power windows. I can pull all the necessary parts out of a junkyard.
*Targa conversion (all cut and fabricated by myself and a friend) or an aftermarket sunroof kit. I'm leaning towards targa conversion but I'm not sure what kind of structural reinforcement would be needed. I'm open to ideas.
*New Paint Job. A good bit of bodywork.
*Wheels/Tires.
*Paint Brake Calipers. Haven't decided on color yet. Bodywork/paint and wheels/tires come first.
*Lowering the car.
*Paint valve cover to match Cosmo SRI. I'm going with blue for both parts.
*Stainless hose sheaths with metallic blue ends.


***AUDIO MODS/IMPROVEMENTS TO BE DONE***

*New tweeters for dash, new 6x9's (?) for rear, and a separate 240w amp to push them.
*One subwoofer. I'm thinking a decent 10" with a 400w amp, maybe JL or Rockford Fosgate. I'll probably get a better alternator too.


***GENERAL MAINTENANCE TO BE DONE***

*New battery and terminals.
*New wiper blades.
*Check clutch cables/linkage/cylinders. Sometimes the clutch slips if I drop it hard after shifting, especially if the engine has been warm for a while. This may be a sign of a dying clutch. Could also be a sign of a dying clutch master/slave cylinder. Or something could just be getting loose after it warms up. Or it might just be time to adjust the action on the clutch.
*New timing belt, just to be sure.
*New cheap tires on the front, just to get by for now. I'm thinking Kumho. It has Yokohama AVS ES100's on the front right now. Great tires, but they're worn out and inspection time has come.
*New head gasket and headbolts.
*New oil pan gasket.
*New CV transaxles, both sides.
*Wheel alignment/Camber adjustment.
*Drain transmission oil and refill with something better.
*Maybe the front and rear main seals. Not sure if I need to yet.
*Maybe a new motor mount. I THINK one of them is shot.
*Possible engine/transmission rebuilds. I'm sure she needs it by now, especially if she's gonna be handling all this extra power.


Well, that's it for now. I think that's everything I want to do. Price of everything except the advanced performance mods and the maintenance parts... I'm estimating $2500? I'll be doing the sanding/bodywork/primer myself, so that will drop the price by a ton, which is why I'm estimating only $2500. Pics will be in my next post.

I have a 94 Eclipse 5 speed 192k miles. it seems when I put it into gear it and press on gas it doesnt have any power or rev up. I was hoping someone here may have had or heard of same problem and knew how to fix it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Novacaine

I was on my way to work this morning and I was at a stop light and the lady in front of me lunged forward and hit the lady i front of her, put it in reverse and lunged backward and hit me! Furious, I got out of the car and waent up to her window only to find tat she was compulsing and nresponsive. After asking her 3 times if she was ok (obviously she wasn't) she said she had diabetes. Well I called 911 and called work to tell them I was gonna be late. So now, not only do I need a new fender, I also need a new front bumper... FML!

today a fucking BACK HOE backed into me! WTF!!


Yea... Here are some pics:





Oh yea, and apparently my corner light fell of while driving, so god knows what happened to it.. lol

FML!

Ok, so now for the build itself.

Here are my plans:
(Note: Items marked with a * are already obtained)

Ok, so I guess this is where I put this. Please feel free to move it if it is not in the right place.

Anyway here we go.
(Note: Items with a * in front of them are already obtained.)

Plans:
Turbo Setup:
Stage 1:
- T3 Flanged 45-Trim Turbo
- 1g Eclipse/Talon/Laser Blow Off Valve
- CXRacing Front Mount Intercooler
- CX Racing IC Piping Kit
- Custom Intake Piping
- RP Fabrications "Log-Style" Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- Ebay Wastegate Dump Tube
- Hallman Manual Boost Controller
- APEXi SAFC II
- Braided Stainless Steel Oil Feed Line and Fittings
- Braided Stainless Steel Oil Return Line and Fittings
- RP Fabrications SS 2.5" Downpipe
- SSAC 38mm External Wastegate w/ 5psi Spring

Stage 2:
- Megasquirt II w/ PCB v3.57
- Megatune Software
- STM Oil Cooler

Stage 3:
- T3 Flanged 50-Trim Turbo
- RP Fabrications "Ram-Horn" Style Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- TiAL 38mm External Wastegate w/ 5psi Spring



Engine/Exhaust:
Stage 1:
- Magnaflow Street Series Performance Muffler
- Magnaflow Universal High-Flow Car
- Custom 2.5" Piping From the Cat Back
-IPP Performance Rebuild Kit
Complete gasket Set
Wiseco 9.0:1 Forged Pistons
Plasma Moly Rings
Performance Wrist Pins
Toga HP Main Bearings
Toga HP Rod Bearings
Freeze Plugs
Timing Belt

Stage 2:
- Schneider 270/270-grind Camshaft
- Custom Titanium Valve Springs
- Custom 1mm Oversized valves and Retainers
- Head Ported 1 1/2" Intake & Exhaust (Factory is 1 1/4"), Polished, Resurfaced, and Milled
- 4G63 ARP Head Studs

Stage 3:
- RP Fabrications SMIM
- 4G63 N/A Throttle Body
- Fluidyne 38mm Radiator



Ignition:
*-NGK BPR6ES-11 Spark Plugs - $10
*-Magnecore 8.5mm Wires - $61

Fuel:
Stage 1:
- DSM 450cc Injectors
- STM Fuel Return Kit

Stage 2:
- FIC 650cc Injectors
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
- STM Fuel Feed (Filter-To-Rail) Kit

Monitoring Equipment:
-Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge - $63
-Autometer Cobalt Oil Temp Gauge - $60
-AEM UEGO Wideband Kit - $255
-Pocket Logger Setup - $?

Suspension/Braking:
-Megan Racing Coilovers - $831
-Megan Racing Front Strut Bar - $49
-Power Slot Big Brake Kit (Front) - $480


Drivetrain:
-ShepTrans Stage 2 Transmission Rebuild - $2495
-Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel - $319
-ACT 2100 Clutch Kit W/ Street Disc - $211


Exterior/Lighting:
*-Custom White W/ Blue Pearl Paintjob and Repairs - $2200
*-Euro Crystal Headlights and Corners - $142
- Evo BBS wheels - $?
*-205/60Z/17 BFG G-Force Sport Tires (Will be going 225's next) - $400
-15% Tinted Windows - $140
-OEM-Style Carbon Fiber Hood - $460
-Sparco Hood Pins - $35
*-Wings West Supra Style Spoiler - $296 + $150 for Install/Paint
-EDM Tail Lights W/ Smoke - $?
-EDM Side-View Mirrors - $?
-CF Hatch W/ OEM Glass - $558
-Powder Coated Wiper Arms - $30
-New OEM Sideskirts W/ Paint - $543

Interior:
-Custom Interior - $?
-Blue LED Gauge Cluster and HVAC Bulbs - $?
-Sparco ERGON Shift Knob - $95

Audio/Video:
*-Sony CDX-GT630 Head Unit - $174
*-Polk Audio DB651 6.5" Rear Speakers - $160
-Polk Audio DB401 4" In-Dash Speakers - $80

What does everyone think of this setup? Any criticism is welcomed with open arms.

OK, so now that I have my car back, there are a couple things I have questions about:

1) Since they had to replace my exhaust manifold because mine was cracked, they obviously had to replace the o2 sensor. Well, they said that they couldn't get the old sensor out of the old manifold so they just plugged the whole in the new manifold (Why they didn't just buy a new sensor, I have no idea). Obviously, the CEL is on, but what gets me is that the car runs fine. I thought that if the o2 sensor went bad your car will idle all weird and act craszy. Why wouldn't this be the same when there is no sensor at all? lol Also, will running no sensor until I can get to the parts store to get one cause any unnoticed damage? Like, will it make my care run really rich?

2) My head was cracked, so I bought a newly machined head with new internals for $225. Well, when driving, there is a "flutter" coming from the head. Before anyone suggests it, I know its not DSM tick because of two reasons:

a) It doesnt sound like DSM tick at all. Hell it isn't even a ticking noise at all.

It is continuous. Meaning, it doesn't go away after the engine has warmed up. It "flutters" all the time.


Any ideas?

So yeah. I've removed the silencer and hacked a square opening in the aircan. Those helped, both with the sound of my car and the power. I notice it has a lot more pickup now. I also picked up a set of NGK plugs for free, we have an NGK Ceramics plant right here in Mooresville and I know people

After thinking for a while I've decided I don't want to go turbo. It's just too expensive and I don't want to build a race car. I plan on keeping this car for maybe another year or two, then selling it and popping a down payment on something new. So a turbo would definitely be overkill for what I want to accomplish.

On the flip side, while I have it I do want to make it better and personalize it. I'd like to be able to keep up with my friends' 6th-gen Si's. They have 105 more hp stock than my Eclipse, and they definitely aren't slow.

After reading the FAQs I'm a bit scared about how I'm going to do exhaust. I don't want to spend $700 on a custom exhaust system. I'd rather just buy pre-shaped 2.5" pipe and a hi-flow cat from the local Auto Zone and do it myself, but that still leaves the header. RP Fab headers aren't really what I'm looking for TBH (just overkill.)

So what's next? Is there anything else I can do on the cheap besides NGK plugs? I have plenty of tools so that's no problem. If possible I'd like to get up to 150hp w/o a turbo.

How many different heads came on a 93' 4G37 motor? and how would i tell which one i've got? i thought there was only one except for the cyclone head in 90" but the place i'm tring to get a remanufactured head from is saying theres four different heads on this motor and they can't figure out which one to send.

Ok, so ever since I attempted the SMIM install and ended putting the old manifold back on, I havent been able to hold idle when the engine is cold. Somewhere along the install attempt, my head gasket started leaking (How I have no idea, but w/e). It is just a small leak, but could this cause a large enough vacuum leak to make my cold idle fucked up? I thouhgt maybe the throttle body gasket was leaking since advance auto didnt have a gasket and I just used RTV, so I just got done installing a felpro TB gasket (I used shellac too.) and this helped, but it's still not holding idle. If I keep my foot on the gas for a couple mins on a cold start nad give the car time to warm up a bit, it will idle (tho not great) enough to drive. Any ideas? My IAC motor is functioning, but I am not sure how to test my TPS and ISC, but since it idles at operating temp, wouldn't that mean they are fine?


Sorry for the sorta long post, but any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jon

my sunroof is leaking on the front passenger side.. how can i fix this or do i need to replace the whole thing?? also my motor works but wont slide the window back it just gets stuck and grinds.. how could i fix it? and last where could i go to get a custom back plastic where the eclipse is written but have it customized to say something else??? please help this nembie

Can it be done? I am looking at replacing the head gasket and want to slap a 1st gen 4g63 head on my 4g37 block, will it work? thanks in advance!

So my car is not starting since that test drive from hell and I found that it is not sparking.

I tested the ignition coil and didn't get the appropriate reading so I decided to swap the distributor with one I had lying around (parts car ftw ).

I was taking off the timing belt cover so I could find TDC and it turns out my baby had a little surprise for me...



WOOHOO!!!

I'm not sure what happened exactly and I began taking off the lower cover but realized that I need to take off some other pulleys first.

Anyone know some good 4g37 timing belt removal and installation guide that has pictures??
I have my trusty Chilton but I like me some pictures

I'm kind of insecure about taking things apart without knowing exactly what I'm doing so anything you guys have to share would be great.

Would a faulty ISC throw a CEL? See, I am having an issue with initial idle. When the engine is cold and I start the car, it will turn on but instantly die. I have to keep my foot on the gas until it warms up. Once within operating temperature, however, it idles fine? I don't understand it. I tried searching and similar issues have been found and they all yield to the ISC. I am thinking maybe when i took the TB apart I put the ISC back together wrong or something. Or it's busted, one of the two, but at any rate, there is no CEL. That is what is confusing me. Anyone know what could be wrong?

not on my car thank god

but anyways my sister and her husband own a 1993 eagle talon with the 1.8L engine. well they just called and their timing belt broke, now i am pretty sure the 1.8L does not bend valves when it breaks, correct? well my dad called up auto zone and they say it is an interference head but im positive its not.

anyone know if it is or isnt? and also how do u do the timing on the 1.8L as im probably gonna be stuck doing it

I went to install my new 6 1/2" speakers in the rear today and I came across a problem. I've always had the simple adapters that require no wire cutting or anything in the past but I don't have them now and I was wondering how to hook up the new speakers. The connector to the stock speaker was different than any I've ever seen. Any help appreciated. Oh its a 94 eclipse 1.8.

I just bought a 92 Eclipse and i don't know what motor it has the valve cover says Cyclone, It look to me like a 2.0 and that is what Carfax said but the guy i bought it from said it had a motor out of a newer Eclipse but he didn't know what year. Any help would be nice.

Thanks

Hey guys, I did do a search on this and found some good info but I still have a question.

I bought this Eclipse 1.8L about 4 days ago, I had time last night to work on it and I did a compression test. It showed 148 across the board. (I dont have a Haynes manual, so IDK if thats good.) Now, the car still blows blue smoke. Before I either have to replace the piston rings or Valve stem seals, is there anything that I can try to maybe make the blue smoke stop? For example, SeaFoam, Oil additives, etc. Any help or pointers would be appreciated. Just fyi, the car didnt smoke when I purchased it.

All I did was replace the spark plugs, clean the throttle body, and add Fuel Injector cleaner. I did notice that when I unplug the MAS the car runs alot better, and when its plugged in the car sputters @ idle and accelerating.

Please lmk if yall could help. Thanks

Luis.

my idle goes up and down when at idle whats the cause help please

BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE
THANKS

Ok well another problem arose with the 1.8. Wow these are just all comin' at me at once!

Whenever I release the clutch to take off, if I even slip the clutch AT ALL (which sometimes I have too, but I try not to. lol) the car shakes horribly. I dont really know how to exxplain it but it feels kinda like the wheels are skipping on the ground lol any ideas? I think it's time for a new clutch. :x
EDIT: Oh yea and it only does it after I have been driving for a while. like it won't do it at first but after driving 20 miles or so it will start doing it.

I have a 4g37 and am changing the timing belt and my Chilton says there is a plug on the rear side of the block that I need to locate (I wont go into details) and they give this image:



Is this the plug I am looking for?
It is the only one I could find...



This view gives a better idea as to where it is




The sooner I can get help the better!
Thanks

So I finally fixed my 1992 eclipse 4g37 a few months ago (as some of you may remember) after probably two years of problems.
She has been running great with no problems since (although I haven't driven her much because I don't have insurance...).

So I put up an add on craigslist because I have grown tired of our abusive relationship over the last two years and I am looking for....a honda *GASP*

I have had some people show interest but not much until today a kid came out to see it with cash in hand.
I knew he was going to buy it...I could see it in his eyes!

So we hop in the car so he can go for a test drive (I had warmed it up before he came over).
We pulled out of the driveway and he shifts into second gear and THE MOTOR DIES AND WILL NOT START!

I HAVE HAD ENOUGH!

Now I have to fix her car again in the freezing cold.
why does she treat me like this....