http://depositfiles.com/files/cen9su9k9

this is a link to the 4cyl and V6 australian models

get it while the link lasts

Well My 2002 vr-x has been stored all winter, I got it out a month ago and noticed the floor was all wet.. I though it had a leak and it was melted snow, so I pushed my hand on the floorboard, and nothing but green came up.. and ALOT of it. It was soaked.. Now I hear this car has issues with leaky cores, or the seal ( o ring ? ) which can leak onto a ECU or TCU? Not to sure exactly what those are , but have seen on here that it can cause OTHER issues

So my next question is this.. Sometimes my tranny seems like its slipping when going into the next gear. It still feels solid and strong, and always goes directly into gear when you shift , but Im wondering if the leaky core might have something to do with that as well..??

Lastly, how hard is it to change the heater core on these .. thanks everyone, this has been a problem for a while now , and would love to finally get everything working right again

Hi guys,

I recently bought a car off someone and the key battery was dead, so I replaced it. I also had to solder in a new switch, as the lovely ex-owners kept stabbing the button thinking the button wasn't working, not even checking the battery.

Now, I press the button, the key light flashes and nothing happens. Apparently I need to get it reprogrammed/paired, though Mitsubishi want $80 to do this, which is a tad steep. I've tried turning the ignition from ACC to ON 3 times within 5 seconds, I've tried going between ACC and ON with 2-3 second pauses with each time, I've tried turning it to ON so the dash lights come on and pressing the "lock" button on the key (as suggested by my local dealer), though nothing happens.

I can't think of anything to get my car into programming mode apart from jumping pins 1 and 4 on the data port, though I heard this is ONLY for models 1995/6 and later, so I don't want to ruin anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I do like the remote entry/locking feature.

Regards,


Daniel

This is a few intake and induction break downs


1992-1997 Mitsubishi Galant 6G73 2.5 V6
1992-1999 Mitsubishi Galant 6A12 2.0 V6
1996-1998 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13 SOCH
1996-2004 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13T (DOCH)
1996-2005 Mitsubishi Diamante 6G72/6G73/6G74 DOCH , SOCH and Variable Geometry Intake Plenum
1997-2005 Mitsubishi Magna/Verada 6G72 and 6G74

Can anybody help me out with instructions how to program remote on 2002 diamante
Thanks

OK, got to clear up some misinformation regarding the 6G72 Mivec. It is not like newer systems, it is like vtec, at least similar. the exhaust and intake cams have to 2 lobes ground per cylinder, a normal lift lobe, and next to it a higher lift lobe. there IS a physical change in lift. at 5500rpm,the ecu sends a signal to solenoids in the heads that allow oil pressure to locking pins that engage rockers on the high lift lobes and these take over from lower lift lobes. there is definitely a changeover point. it is not linear. at 4000rpm, the intake butterflys change position. heres a pic of the exhaust lobes on one cam, and pics of cams in heads

hi there,

i'm just wondering if anyone can provide advice - i currently have a 25v diamante but am considering upgrading and the options are:
- 30R-SE 4WD
- 30M SE
- Deporte 4wd (which is apparently the 30M, and does have a mivec engine).

Are the 4wd diamantes actually 4wd or more like AWD?
Which of those would you recommend over the others, all are roughly the same year and condition, i'm leaning towards the 30M for the mivec engine which sounds pretty flash, but then the 30R-SE has some very impressive features.

thanks!

Sorry for the rookie question but i did a search for a bit but could not find a thread. Could some lead me in the right direction. Just started yesterday, not even sure it the strut but when i hit some bumps it sould like something in fallen off. Any advise how to replace or even check if its the strut. Car as 101000 easy miles on it.
thanks

Hi

On a TP Magna (1990) and probably its predecessors (TN, TM) the front hubs need to be removed to renew the wheel bearings. They mention a hub removal tool in the manual, but has anyone found one or done it without it? The danger is damaging the hub when not using a puller/removal tool designed for the job. I doubt any puller would work because the manual talks about bolting the removal tool to the steering knuckle's boltholes (from the front struts, ball joint and tie rod end, when its out of the car) and the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped. I can't imagine any average puller being able to be affixed to it somehow, whether through leverage or a nut and bolt.

Curioso

An Information Post:

One of the best tools I've ever had is a portable jump starter with air compressor (see pic below).

As long as you keep it charged (and they have battery level indicator lights) it's the easiest way to jumpstart and inflate your tyres. And they are light and small enough to fit in any boot without being a space consumer or weight drag problem.

Only thing is, when you jumpstart, do not put the earth clamp on the car's bodywork (fender etc). Try the water pump, or something chunkier/heavier and with better conductivity than light thin sheet metal.

The first thought I had about these is that they are perfect for single female drivers who want to be able to start their car without having to ask another car for help with jumper leads. Kind of a safety device and a way of avoiding strangers.

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

I've got a 2000 Diamante LS here in the Northeast USA. I'm in the process on purchasing another vehicle (another Mitsu - an Outlander) and was wondering what the best thing to do with the old Diamante would be. It's been a reliable car, but has 153k on it. It probably needs new shocks, the valve cover leaks some oil, and I've got a code for a bad O2 sensor that I figured I'd get to eventually, and the ABS light's been on for years. Beyond that, the engine and power train have been great. Question is, would this car be worth purchasing as a parts car for someone with another Mitsu? With the price of parts and keeping these older D's running, it would seem that it should be worth $1500 -$2000 that way vs trading it in, which would probably only bring $500-$100. I love the car, need something with more clearance in my new job.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Ron

Hi all last week i washed my 2003 magna as usual water went thru into cabin about an hour later car would not start i blew any water i could see from under dash and car starts but since then the green security lights stays on and beeps continually any ideas ? cheers

We just were given a 2004 Diamante. Great car but it has a few problems I would like to figure out. Can any one give me some advise.
The heater defroster a/c fan, does not work. I have been told that it was an a/c problem and the fuse b ox needed to be replaced and all the a/c equipment. I can't see how that is possible. Is there a common problem with the climate control system that I should look at. Also the fuel gauge does not work. Is it possible to get to and repair the fuel sending unit?

I've never had this much of a problem swapping filters.
I pulled off the front cover plate that I assumed was where the throttlebody(?) filter goes. I don't see a filter.
I pulled off the plate on the left side of the transmission (driver's side behind the wheel), and I can't even get the plate off. I'm assuming that's the cover for the torque converter.
The seals I bought don't match either pattern.

WHERE IS THE FILTER?

Secondly, I bought 8 quarts of Mercon V, as it matched "Diamond SP II," but confirmation that that is the correct fluid before I finish this out would be nice.

Please help. ;_;

I swapped the entire engine/trans/suspension from a 2002 Diamante VRX into a 2001 LS. There was only one component that I could see was different, a small round device with a connector that goes down inside the trans way down low close to the steering rack toward the firewall.
The '02 trans just had a cover plate there. I removed the component from the old '01 trans and installed it in the '02 and plugged in the connector.

Now the trans in "fault mode" (only have 3rd and reverse, nuetral light blinking and speedo doesnt work (probably related), I have an entire donor car which was driving fine for parts and am guessing I need the Transmission control computer out of the '02 VRX but I can't figure out which part it is, I have out the traction control unit (MR502450) and the ECU I think,its the part covered with plastic, part (MR578513). I thought that I had removed everything under there. I need some ideas of what might be the issue and the trans control part number or description or a picture of it or something.
Thanks for the assist, you folks seem the most knowledgable out of everything I've read on the net.

Hi, my verada seem to operate intermitant where upon starting it seems ok on all drive modes and after afew minutes it begin to show hesitancy and in the end it does not engage on all drive modes. When I switch off and start again it's back to normal and goes on like that.

I have changed the TCU and AT Relay but fault still exist and hopefully it's not the tranny gone again. Next step I might try to change the sensors first and last the valve body before replace the whole tranny. Helps and comments are greatly appreciated, thanks.

Please help.

Lesael

Hi,

Anyone have ideas how to make the radiator fan switch on before the temperature gauge reached half marks.
Any suggestion is appreciated.

Thanks

Hi,

I need to try replacing the Transmission Control Unit in a '92 KR Verada. Trans is stuck in 3rd gear and the diagnostic port doesn't give any pulses so I'm guessing the TCU is kaput.

Does anyone know whether there are any substitute TCU part numbers for this part? Or will I need to find an exact replacement?

Label markings are:

ELC3MEXP
MD751231
G1T11677E
2420

The EPROM label is marked:

M735

Given the strife I had pulling this one out I'm reluctant to go to a "U-Pull it" type wrecker. Does anyone happen to know of a good place to try for a replacement (in Aus)?

Thanks.

The ABS and TCL lights have been on in my 2002 diamante VR-X for a while and I just got around to trying to fix it today. As I remember they came on at about the same time. I originally thought it was one of the speed sensors on the wheel hub assemblies, but the resistance on all four sensors was about 1.35 to 1.4 ohms. Next I tried replacing the ABS controller on the ABS unit.(I guess i should add that the was a used part not a new one) This made the ABS light turn off but the TCL light still blinks constantly. I tried replacing the vacuum switch on the intake plenum that only the diamantes with traction control have, but this changed nothing. As a last ditch effort I checked the vacuum solenoids bolted to the firewall, but they were functioning properly. Has anyone else figured out this problem before? Any ides of what exactly is wrong here?

Where is the keyless receiver located on a 1998 diamante located. And do all diamantes come with this feature? Thank you all.

Hey guys, has anyone ever tried to program a remote to a 1998 diamante? I recently gave my 98 diamante to my brother in law. He wanted keyless entry so we bought an aftermarket remote for it, but I can't figure out how to get the car in programming mode. I have programmed remotes on both of my other diamantes before, but they are 2002s and apparently the electronics are very different. I have found some instructions about finding the RKE reviver and pressing some "programming button" on it, but that doesn't seem right. I read that this RKE unit was near the passenger side A pillar, I looked but I didn't see it(in the front at least) maybe in the back?? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

I just bought my 1993 Diamante wagon. The hatch door opened fine when I was buying it and a few times since. I recently unhooked the battery to do some work and now the hatch won't open. I tried to research the hatch on here and online and didn't find anything.

First of all is the rear hatch lock the same as the other car locks? I think I used the ignition key before, but I may have forgotten that I used a different key.

Second, is there a rear hatch button ow lever inside the vehicle? How about an inside lever on the interior side of the hatch?

Thanks!

I found a part on the garage floor under my 1999 Diamante. It appears to be made from plastic or polyurethane. One side is ragged like it broke off from the rest of the part. Only problem is that I cannot identify where it came from. I don't think it is exhaust system related because it probably couldn't take the heat. It looks like the material the strut shock bumpers are made from. I have checked through the factory manual and looked under the car, but do not see where it came from.

I have attached pictures from the top and bottom, though I am not sure which side is really the top. The length is 3.25 inches.

Anybody recognize this part?

So I have been trying toget my heater fixed 00' ls diamante. So there is no fluid leakage in the cabin of the car and the blend door control arm is functioning perfectly. No smell of antifreeze.

When I feel hoses they are hot. But its hard to tell cause the engine is hot. Is there something in the engine bay that only diverts coolant into the core when the heater is turned on?

I am gonna do some more poking around under the hood tomorrow but any ideas would help. I have had a leaky core in another car before so I know its not that. I bought the car 6 months ago and the core isn't bypassed

I watched the arm as I turned the hot cold selector and it was moving perfectly.

Thanks in advance

I've had this problem for a while and I'm at my wits end with it. I have a 92 diamante. When I'm driving normally (putting around town) I don't have this issue, but when I have to make this car get up and go it starts sputtering. Not badly enough for the car to stall, but it shudders and slowly accelerates through it. I got curious one day and bought a bottle of fuel system cleaner and added it to my gas and found that in most cases it helped a lot and in some cases (depending on the brand of treatment) stopped the problem completely for a short period of time. Since I JUST NOW found out that my Mante is premium fuel only (my ex husband was a redneck mechanic and didn't think this was important) I want to get an opinion from someone here to see what they may think I can do to resolve the problem. I am sure someone is going to suggest changing the fuel filter, BUT I would like to explore the other possibilites as to what may be causing this issue. Any ideas?

I see that we have pinned thread on how to remove upper shocks mount.

However, where do you guys get replacement upper rear mounts? I am on second rusted through mount and now I want to find a new one!

Also, do does Diamante share its upper rear shock mount with FWD 3000GT?

Thanks!

I am posting this for a mate he has a 2002 Magna and every now and then the fuel guage drops to empty and stays there for days,then maybe the next time you start it up it is fine reading properly.Has anyone else came across this problem becomes annoying at times too.
Any info would be greatly received.
Thanks
PP

hi i need a little bit of help i have a v6 3.5L i have replaced the cam seals cause they were leaking bad but it is still leaking oil from some were near them but cant find it any ideas plus does any one no how far the cam seals acutually sit in side the tappet cover just a rough guess in case i have put them in to far or not far enough

When shifter is in park the car is not in park, when i shift to any position with the shifter it shifts to the wrong gear,
however it doesnt engage the same gear for the same shifter position everytime,

For instance if i shift to reverse it sometimes shifts to neutral sometimes drive,
if i shift to neutral it usually shifts to either drive or 3rd gear,


Specifically if the shifter is in the drive position the gear indicator in the instrument cluster shows what gear it is actually in and its not the gear that the shifter is in the position of.

when i get the transmission into drive the automatic shifts normally with no issues, nor any issues when i can get it into reverse.


is this a linkage issue or a sensor or cable?

when i put the shifter into park the key comes out fine but the car will not crank due to it mostly in reverse when it is in the drive position.
i have to crank it in neutral. i have to shift shifter up and down a few times to get the gear engaged into what i want.

Hi


I don't know much about the good and bad of suspension so I wanted to know if I could replace an old set of rear coil springs with new ones, even if they require no compression to fit?

I bought a set of King springs with a Fulcrum Suspensions sticker on them that I have confirmed as appropriate for a TP Magna, but when I went to install them, they were 2.5cm shorter and so required no compression to fit to the rear shocker unit. Not that the old ones required a lot of compression but without spring compressors I would never have got them onto the unit.


I rang Fulcrum and they said that these springs were just heavier, hence one less coil (10 instead of 11 for the original set) and that so long as the springs were trapped they could be install with no compression applied to them.

If anyone thinks this is dodgy, don't hesitate to voice your opinion, as I will be trying to install them soon and am seeking a "second opinion" or two beforehand in case this idea is off base.


Thanks


Curioso

Hi guys i have
A 1992 Mitsubishi Diamante ls with the DOHC motor. About a year ago I had the motor replaced and 6 months ago the granny rebuilt about 6 months ago. Recently the car kept shutting off and running poorly. The crank sensor was part of the problem. So after that the car would run for a about 15 minutes the shut off. Turns out the ecu was bad. So I found a 92 Diamante but that one had traction control...mine doesn't. The car runs but the check engine light is on due to my. Car not having traction control. So after the alternator and starter replacement also I've come.across another problem. The freaking rpms are stuck at 3000. The iac valve was dirty ...that didn't help. So now I don't know what to do, please someone help.

I own a 1999 Diamante and outside ebay it is really hard to find certain "obscure" replacement parts.

I have Chilton book with the title "Mitsubishi Mirage/Galant/Diamante 1990-2000".

With that title you can assume that some parts of these models are interchangeable.


Now the question is.... Is there an online database or paper-publication with cross-reference for these vehicles (with or without the part number)?

Example: I'm looking for the radiator fan relay and as I mention earlier, sometimes my only way to get parts is via ebay but the seller only list the parts with the specific year/model the part was taken from. And not surprisingly they do not know any compatibility with any other year or model.


Thanks for any help you can provide.

Hello,

I have been trying to unloosen tight nuts with a torque wrench.
Is it wise to use a torque wrench to unloosen tight nuts.

I find it useful instead of a proper breaker bar which i dont own
but wonder if I am doing more harm to it than good.

Ben

I thought id make a thread re GNs.
Mines a 85 2.6 astron2 5 speed <130000 km, when I bought her i found the temp gauge stayed cold (~1/4).
Turned out someone 'jimmyed' the car to look like it was running cool, they fitted a short temp sender unit to the head (didnt hane the tip out in the coolant stream like the proper one has). So I changed it and found she ran just above the ends of the wavey lines at the center of the gauge....untill it got work, when it would heat up to 2/3 ~ 3/4.

I did some work to the carby and refilled the coolant (every filled with same amount I drained out + I purged the air out at the upper choke coolant connection), ran the eng up and started doing adjustments. I noticed the top rad hose was cold ! the bottom one was extreamly hot ! looked at the gauge !!!! hard over in the red.
Turned it off & removed the thermostat (it stuck shut) got hot water n refilled the cooling system before running the eng to cool, guess what? started getting milky oil :-( thought it might have just been the gasket, head was <0.002 thou out of flat.
So I did a valve job n put it back on, seemed ok but temp still behaved the same....then the milky started again (slight foaming in the coolant (air)).

Tryed using chemiweld, followed all recomendations. but after a month it got worce n started lossing coolant faster to the sump. removed the cam and rocker gear, wiped the head down and pressurized the cooling system (14 psi).
Beads of coolant apeared from the front of #3 cam bearing, it had a 3" crack traveling toward the rear of the head :-(.

Got a m6 casting to replace the m2 head, did the valves and installed the m2 cam n rocker gear etc (easy change over) :-) temp stays around 1/2 now what ever I do driving


>>>Key points I found: 1 > heats up when eng is working (cooling sys in good cond)
2 > head was not adheared to head gasket (but the gasket did stick to the block)
3 > carfully moniter the temp of the hoses n gauge after anything involving coolant removal and replacement.

Hi All

Just wondering if anyone can tell me where the fuel pump relay for the 97 TE Magna wagon is located. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Darren

so, I have this 2001 diamante Ls, which goes into limp mode (from reading some of the post in this forum) it is a 3.5 with a tranny f4A51 in it. After disconecting the battery the car starts normally. Drives normal until it gets to about 15mph and then it jurks, the rpms revs. high and no longer shifts with the N light flashing, and check engine light comes on. drove it to autozone and it read codes: p0750, and p0755. shift selonoids bank A, B. here are some of the things I have done by finding informantion in this forum and some other ones. 1. checked and verified the relay control for the Ecu. voltage , 2. verified electrical conections for the input and output speed sensor to ecu connector, replaced the speed sensor with a used one from the junk yard, replaced the input and output sensors with new ones(from ebay) . swapt the ecu unit with a used one I bought online( after reprogramming the immo code with help of a software engr. in another forum) I have removed the tranny pan cover and ohmed out each selonoid to spec value of 3.7 ohms per service manual. also ohmed out the internal selonoid harness. any input on this topic is appreciated. Thanks

Hope someone can help, I am trying to source one of the above engines however I can find no particular engine matching this description. It should look exactly like the one on this website if anyone knows which model/year I should be looking for:

http://www.3litrev6.com/gallery.html

We recently purchased this car. initially, the speedometer had a small bounce to it, no biggie b/c it was barely noticeable. A couple days ago while on the freeway the speedo went from 70 +/- and began climbing up to 120, then 130+. Now it does this anytime the car is in motion. No matter the speed, the speedo climbs to nearly double actual speed. Yesterday while driving, I attempted to reset the trip meter to see if it was following the same speed as the speedo was showing and the trip meter locked up and does not move... I do hear a small click now when the car is in motion that seems to come from the trip meter.

I've never seen this happen on a car before and am stumped.

Any ideas are much appreciated!

Thanks!

Scott

I have to pick up a hood for my Diamante station wagon because mine rusted through. I want to know if the hood between the wagon and sedan are interchangeable. I've used front end parts from the sedan before fine but wasn't sure about the hood.

Thanks

Hell everyone....new guy here
Question. I have a 93 Diamante ES, I was wondering could a bad altarnator putting out low voltage cause the car to go in to limp mone?

I've got a 2001 Diamante LS with the 3.5L engine. I was told today that my front and rear motor mounts need to be replaced. I was also made aware that it also has side mounts on the engine. Going through several parts houses (Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly), I can't make heads or tails about which ones I need to buy. I also am having some sticker shop over the prices compared to a lot of other cars and no one has them in stock to boot. Any ideas about which ones I need? Thanks in advance!

I was wondering how to go about changing the rear spark plugs on a 2001 Diamante LS with 3.5L engine? I can't even see them due to the intake manifold and hope that it doesn't have to be removed to access the rear plugs. Thanks in advance!

New user here, I've searched but I have some questions that I really didn't see anywhere, and I wanted to ask them while I was going to ask some of the other ones too anyway.
Hey I have a 2001 Diamante LS and I just want to make it more... nicer.
I need a paint job and stuff, but I was wondering if there's a place online that'll send to the USA. Since I know this is an Australian car and all.
Like possible different headlights, grill (euro style possibly?).

And I was wondering if adding an intake would do anything? I read somewhere over at RPW that it would and it wouldnt.
I mean I just want to step on the gas sometimes and go, but I'm not a racer.
And also a less restrictive exhaust, but I also read that I shouldn't touch the cat because the exhaust system is touchy. (Read that somewhere on this site.)
And after 210k+ miles, probably needs new struts, only thing as far as I was told was that the radiator was replaced.
I put fuel injector and carb cleaner in, probably needs a tune-up too.
Any suggestions on what I can do with this car?

I'm not mechanically inclined so any suggestions I'd probably go get it done by someone. I already hate having my tweeter covers off because my old tweeters didn't work. So I replaced them.
Oh, is there any possible way at all to use the factory Infinity amp with my aftermarket radio? It's already been bypassed but I'm sure there's a way to go back.

OK I know this is an old question but I also sure some of you have an immediate answer because of your own experience.

I have a 2002 US model Diamante and I am trying to locate the TCM "before" I have heater core problem. I am giving the car to my out of state daughter and I want to try to "waterproof" the TCM and connections in the likelihood she will have problems with the core at some point.

I have located the ECM (I believe) under the radio area in the center consoled.

I have located a module of some sort under the side kick panel on the passenger side (behind the plastic trim and carpet on the door hinge post) - is this the TCM.

I understand there is a TCM connector under the floor carpet on the passenger side - is this correct.

Thanks for the help.
wg

Two weeks ago my car started stuttering during idle, cruising and heavy acceleration. The only time it calms down is with a moderate acceleration.

I put in a new cap and rotor a few months back. What kind of issues would I be looking at? Plugs and wires maybe? Haven't checked my plugs yet. With it changing during acceleration, I'm thinking it may also be a fuel delivery problem. Any direction anyone?

I have a couple of problems with the HVAC in my 97 Diamante. The one I'm focusing on right now is the A/C. The A/C doesn't work at all. I've had one shop tell me I'm not getting electrical to the compressor. I have another shop tell me that it's my climate control not sending the start signal to the compressor.

I've had the freon charged and I picked up another climate control panel and put it in. It's the same problem. I verrrry seriously doubt two units are having the same problem. The symptom I see is I plug in either unit, start the car, the unit powers up and I the snowflake is on for about 2 seconds then the snowflake turns off. It won't come back on unless I unplug it and plug it back in.

At no point is the compressor coming on. Any thoughts on this?

Ok, I have a pretty technical question and I'm hoping some Mitsubishi savvy person on this forum can help me. My story is a long one. I have a 2002 VR-X and last summer I let a friend move my car down the driveway at her family's old plantation home. Though this sounds like a fairly simple task, she managed to run it into the bushes and hit a tree. The entire front clip needed replaced, the bumper had gone through the ac condenser and radiator, and the core support was screwed. I should have called the insurance and let the car be totaled, but after looking around, I found a 02 LS in a Copart auction that had been rear ended. I bought this car as a donor vehicle, and when I got it home I found it still ran and had 100,000 miles on it. I drove it around a little, tested it out, and found that the engine and transmission worked perfectly. I managed to get everything I needed off this car and Completely restored my VR-X to its pre-accident condition.
After my car was finished, I tried putting in engine, transmission, and other parts from the donor car on Craigslist to try to make some money back, but there isn't a very big demand for diamante parts in my area and I didn't get any hits. So I looked around on Craigslist some more, and found a 98 diamante a couple hours away form me that needed engine work. I called the guy and he said his son had taken it to get an oil change and they didn't put the filter back tight enough, so he wound up running it without oil on the interstate. I knew the engine from my parts car would work in it, so I bought the 98 off the guy for $900. The 98 had 220,000 on it so I wanted to change out both the engine and transmission. The transmissions looked identical with all the same electrical connections. The only difference in the transmissions I could see was the the 98 transmission had a speed sensor on the back side right above the output shaft. The 2002 transmission had the same hole in the same spot, but simply had a plastic plug stuck in it. I pulled the plug out of the 2002 transmission and saw it had the same gear in it that drove the speed sensor on the other transmission, so I just put the sensor on the new transmission and went ahead with the engine/transmission swap. Once I had the 98 put back together, I started it up and the engine ran just fine. When I went to see how it drove, I found that reverse worked just fine and went into drive just fine. I got it out onto the road and everything was going great until I had gone about 50 or 60 yards and it tried to shift into 2nd. It shifted hard and went into limp home mode( in 2nd or 3rd gear) and the neutral light on the dash started blinking. I checked all the connections and everything looked correct. I put the car on the trailer and took it down to a transmission shop and had the codes read. The Codes were: 41(1st gear not synchronized), P0755(Shift solenoid valve b(2) problem), and P0550(shfit solenoid valve A(1) problem). I told the guy what I had done with the car and asked him if this was an electronics incompatibility problem and he said the the solenoids were the same from 98 up.
I know the transmission worked fine before I put it in the car. And despite the guy at the transmission shop telling me its a solenoid problem, my suspicion is that it has to do with the speed sensors, because I found another posting on this forum about a magna that said if the computer isn't getting correct speed readings, it won't send power to the solenoids. I think this also might explain the 1st gear not synchronized code. Does anyone know much about these transmissions and what might have changed between 98 and 02? I would really appreciate any opinions.