This is a few intake and induction break downs

for 6G72 (3.0) 6G73 (2.5) 6G74 (3.5) SOCH and DOCH, and 6A12 (2.0) and 6A13 (2.5) SOCH equipped FWD

1992-1997 Mitsubishi Galant 6G73 2.5 V6
1992-1995 Mitsubishi Galant 6A12 2.0 V6
1996-1998 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13 SOCH
1996-2004 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13T (DOCH)
1996-2005 Mitsubishi Diamante 6G72/6G73/6G74 DOCH , SOCH and Variable Geometry Intake Plenum
1997-2005 Mitsubishi Magna/Verada 6G72 and 6G74

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

problem solving
use a led test light or a multi meter

long short gives you the codes

http://www.ecmtogo.com/removing_ecm.htm

location
on australian cars
ECI/ECU is on the passengerside kickpanel at glovebox height
TCU is under the carpet below the radio (TR/TS) 4 cyl
or (TR/TS) V6 on the fire wall middle behind the dash


SRS is under the gearshift console

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthre...839075#poststop




order an owners manual
http://www.giantuniverse.com/owners.htm

http://rapidshare.com/files/93856183/TR-TS...Manual_1995.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93851743/Mitsu...2-95_Manual.zip

http://rapidshare.com/files/93849679/6g72_Engine.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93865565/magnaworkshop.part1.rar

http://rapidshare.com/files/93868998/magnaworkshop.part2.rar

http://www.adobe.com/ap/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

http://winrar.download-express.org/

Hi

On a TP Magna (1990) and probably its predecessors (TN, TM) the front hubs need to be removed to renew the wheel bearings. They mention a hub removal tool in the manual, but has anyone found one or done it without it? The danger is damaging the hub when not using a puller/removal tool designed for the job. I doubt any puller would work because the manual talks about bolting the removal tool to the steering knuckle's boltholes (from the front struts, ball joint and tie rod end, when its out of the car) and the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped. I can't imagine any average puller being able to be affixed to it somehow, whether through leverage or a nut and bolt.

Curioso

Hi all,

I have a 1999 Diamante, and I want to know how to get some sort of notification when I lock/unlock the doors, Like the horn chirping or the lights flashing. I'm sure there's a way to program it to do that, and I'm sure it tells you in the owner's manual, but I don't have one. Can anybody help out?

Chad

Hey, just wondering if anyone is able to help us and and inform me on how to remove the speakers from my 1997 Verada Wagon;
The rear speakers, front door speakers and tweaters.
Would be great if someone could help out.
Cheers.

I found 02 LS with 33,000 miles, one owner ( she died and family is selling), very good shape small dent on front bumper and needs tires. $6000.00 or offer. What if any problems should i look for? I have owned other Mitsu's just don't nothing about Diamantes. Any help would be great...Thanks

I have a 2001 mitsubishi diamante and for some reason the directional button on the a/c controls isn't working. The air conditioning only blows slightly out of the far sided vents near the doors, when i push the directional button the screen shows the change in flow but it doesn't do anything. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and could give me a solution, thanks.

Hey guys,

Havent been here in a while but now some more q's

My car has 196,561 k's on it.
I would like to know how many k's are left till it dies.

I guess it would depend on whether im maintaining it or not.
I bought the car second hand so i hope from here on to maintain it regularly

Any advice would be helpful thanks

Ben

hey just wondering how 2 adjust my fan belts floored the car really hard this morning.
now one of the belts is slipping and making a squeking noise any tiips on how 2 fix this up?

Hello,

Is it true that the whole engine has to come out of the car in order to replace the engine mounts?

Just would like to know if i can do this myself or do i need some specialise chain pulley thing (take to mechanic)

Ben

I'm sure this has been covered off on another thread before, so if anyone can point me to that I would appreciate it.
I have TR Magna 2.6 with chain rattle (I believe). Approx 210 000 km on the clock.
I realise no-one can tell me what the problem is, but is there a typical wear behaviour on this engine that you could take a punt on the cause ie worn guides or stretched chain or fault tensioner and which chain (timing or balance or both)
What's the procedure for checking and adjusting chain tension?
Can this be done without removing timing cover on both chains?
Thanks.

Hey I gotta change you my break pads on my VR-X and I was wondering what socket sizes I will need to get the caliper off. Also what size socket for the piece that holds the caliper so I can get the rotor off, one needs to be replaced. thanks

Hey just wondering how to get my volume buttons on my steering wheel to work again.
They were working then i hit the call button on the wheel when the radio was scanning then it stopped working after this.
hitting call again didnt fix the problem.
Anyone know how 2 fix this up? any help would be appreciated.

hi, i have a verada 97 and it sometimes doesnt start. the problem started around a month ago where by it started wen the weather was warm, but now, it doesnt even start first time in the cold. i thought it mite hav been the starter motor so i replaced it, but stil same problem,. the car cranks real nicely and battery is 1 yr old, but she jus doesnt turn on.
this problem wud often hapen wen its switched on gas, but now its doing it on petrol aswell.
any1 know or have any suggestions? cars been recently serviced aswell.

Hi

21 months ago I installed a new cylinder head on a TP 1990 Magna with a new set of 8 hydraulic lifters or tappets. I checked the tappets for hammer damage, seizing or wear today and found that six have totally seized (no spring action) and one came apart into four pieces. The surviving tappet looks a bit beaten up also, with a clunky action to it.

Does anyone know the correct procedure for installing these? I have a torque wrench that goes as low at 19Nm, the recommended setting for "camshaft bearing caps" in the manual. Other than that I think these have something to do with the valve clearance height which I have no idea how to adjust. And then I heard today that after a few hundred clicks or so you have to adjust the tappets again or void warranty.

Thanks

Curioso

Hi everyone, I recently did a manual conversion on my 3.0L TF Magna Altera.
During the conversion I changed over the intermediate driveshaft (driver side half shaft) which was slighly shorter than the auto one.
After doing the conversion and driving around for a bit I noticed a leak on the diff seal so I replaced the seal.
I'm still getting the leak.

I'm wondering if for some reason the intermediate shaft I put on is too short and I need to put the auto one back.
My reason for thinking this is that the metal dust seal (metal ring) on the drive shaft does not go over the lip of the seal once all bolted in and sits about 0.5-1mm out from the lip of the seal which is where the oil is leaking from.

I have two questions.

Do the diff seals need to be pushed all the way in?
Is the drive shaft dust cover meant to go over the lip of the seal? if not why is it even there?

At this point I'm going to pull the drive shaft off again (take 3) and see how the old driveshaft lines up, if the dust cover goes over the seal and it doesn't seem to be hitting anything in the box then I'll swap it over..

Has anyone else who did a manual conversion had this problem?

Thanks.

Guys, my a/c has died, the compressor had seized. Well i have replaced the compressor and the a/c guys tested the system, and they are trying to tell me that the TX valve is clogged. there was low pressure on both sides of the system, and not too much cold air was coming through. The thing is i can't find the tx valve in the service manual... Any ideas, i thought maybe it was inside the Evaporator, or cooling unit inside the car... If not TX valve maybe the hi/low sensor in the dryer..

Hi

My son wants a Magna. Viewed one on Saturday that had a pretty good body and a very good interior. What it may need are the valve stem oil seals replaced (puffs a bit of blue smoke after idling for a while). Is this a fairly simple job? Also I noticed the gear selector (auto) hasn't got a stopper between Drive and Neutral. Presumably there should be one and this can be fixed. Again, is this a simple procedure? Lastly there is an obvious oil leak from the passenger (nearside) of the engine. It's not been cleaned off so I can't see exactly where it's coming from but would anyone have an idea as to whether this is a common problem?

Car is a 93 or 94 TR SE.

Thanks.

Hello,

The gasket (rubber) on the valve cover i know that definitely needs gasket RTV sealant
but what about the thin metal ones between the Throttle Body and the other metal ones, im sure there are more
do they need RTV sealant on them too?

In a few weeks or months, i wanted to check whether oil is still going to get into the rear spark plug tubes
so i have at this stage not used sealant on the Throttle Body gasket cos once I seal it up i will have to break the seal
and need a new throttle body gasket.

Do all gaskets need RTV sealant?

Ben

Hello

what is the default idle setting on the tachometer
what should it read when idle
it seem to float around 1.1

2. My mate said that the gauge on the dashboard
is the tachometer
is he right and if yes can I use that one to test for idle speed
or do I need a tachometer to connect to the engine

3. Apparently there is a way to hear and adjust the idle
just by listening to it without any guages
if yes what should I be listening for
thanks heaps for ur guys help so far

Ben

Hello

i have previous tried to Jack up the car and accidentally
put a dent in it due to wrong jackstands location maybe

can some please post pics or instructions of where to
place all jackstands
thanks

any suggestions would be appreciated,I have a TF magna sports V6 auto and the SRS warning light has come on but at the same time the horn has stopped working and so has the cruise control. The SR%S light is on all the time,the horn does not work at all and the cruise control activating button on the dash lights but none of the paddles on the steering columb will activate anything. Ive checked the main SRS fuse in the engine bay,its ok,so was hoping for some other suggestions before I ship it off to a mechanic. Did think that possibly there could be some problem where the steering wheel connects to the columb as I ssume there must be some sort of sliding contact etc but not game to pull the wheel off. Thanks all!!

Hello

does this provide a pressure gauge, vacuum gauge and tachometer
instead of buying the components separately I thought I would
use te computer and evoscan
how accurate is it compared to real gauges

I would like to know what Mitsubishi used for OEM plugs in 97 Diamante. I would think Nippon or NGK. Also are the OEM platinum or iridium. I pulled one from the car and its a Champion.

Thanks

Hello,

I need to clean my throttle body. I have noticed some gunk in there. Would like to clean it
and give it better idling.

Any recommendations for my model.
V6 3.0 TF model

Ben

Should I clean it out, and if yes, what should I clean it with?

Here are pics of the inside.

[attachment=11526:UIP.JPG]
[attachment=11527:UIP__1_.JPG]
[attachment=11528:UIP__2_.JPG]

Thanks
Ben

Hey guys

me again 98 rf magna v6 3.0
I don't know if the engine mounts
have ever been replaced on this car
so how will I know if they need replacing, any signs to look for
is it a hard job?

Ben

Hello all,
I am a newbie. I searched for what i want but no luck. Hence i am posting my pbm here. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I got 2003 Diamante. My audio set is not working. I was working fine but on one fine day it decided not to work. I did nothing unusual. It has got a CD inside and display never turns off (even if engine is turned off).

Any help will be greatly appreciated,
- Yogaa

Hi all.
Just like many of you, the transmission started acting funny for no reason. Took everything apart and there is significant evidence of coolant on the plastic that protects the ECM and the floorboard.

Everyone keeeps talking about a "transmission relay". Where is this?

I found a local junkyard that has the ECM I have (w/traction).
I have 3 boxes in the front center of the car:
1. Air bag module (very bottom of ECM) part MR538276
2. ECM part MR514497
3. Traction control box (just below the radio mounted vertically) part MR502450.

Where is the mystery "transmission relay"?

I have all of the metal "kickplates" off the side of the center hump and can't find this MD759545 relay anywhere.

Also, if I swap out the ECU - do I need new remotes for my keyless entry/security?

Thanks.

Hi

I went to a wreckers today and removed a decent looking gearbox for a TP Magna as a spare. Cost a bit but I'm not confident without one, because they often have problems.

As is my custom though, I removed the pan while the box was still connected to the engine, and drained the box with that as well as the plug beforehand. To my surprise however, the five(5) magnets on the pan's base had no metal filings on them at all. Usually this is a good litmus test of how worn the box's clutch plates etc are. The other thing was the oil was a healthy-looking reddish brown - I've seen much worse oil in these boxes. And there was recently applied blue sealant all over the join between the box's two hemispheres - indicating recent work. And overall the box was hardly scratched or greasy at all, which is also rare for a 21 year old box.

Could it be that these things, especially the total lack of metal filings on all five magnets, indicate a recently reconditioned box with new plates that haven't worn yet? Or, to play devil's advocate, could it be that the plates are so worn that there was no more metal filings left to be scraped from them onto the pan magnets? This last alternative would mean that someone changed the filter and pan gasket and removed the filings but didn't realise the plates were now unserviceable, hence why it ended up at the wrecker perhaps (there was no crash damaged on it, but that's not unusual).

Which do you think is the most likely scenario? A good box or bad box?

If I took a guess myself I'd say a good box that had its filter recently replaced, owing to its apparent good quality and good oil. Too many pointers to a new box for my liking here, but I'm not totally sure. It's a quandary, a riddle wrapped in an enigma .

Curioso

Hello,

I have a few questions about my magna 98 TF advance.
Main job im trying to do is replace my spark plugs front and rear.

1. How do I remove these bolts to remove the upper intake plenum? (shown in leftsidebolt1.jpg and rightsidebolt1.jpg)
Its weird but when i look at the bottom of the
[attachment=11459:leftsidebolt1.JPG]
[attachment=11460:rightsidebolt1.JPG]

2. How do I stop oil from getting onto the spark plugs? and spark plug tube? (shown in oilonsparkplugwire1.jpg)
[attachment=11461:oilonspa...lugwire1.JPG]

Hello,

I have a V6 3.0L TF Magna 98

Can the ECU Fuel/Air ratio table be modified so that when more air via a new airflow system (not sure which one) comes in
less fuel is injected by the ECU?

eg. for every 2x AIR, use 1x Fuel or 1.5x Fuel.
The way I see it is the ECU has been programmed for stock Air Filters and not
K&N Filters and that those filters are used for one thing in mind 'more power'

But now I dont want power like everyone else, I want increase fuel efficiency.
Im also gonna remove the spare wheel and use a fix-a-tyre thingee
and remove the backseats. (very basic weight reduction)

I know that with with more air, more fuel gets used due to the airflow sensor sensing more airflow
and communicating back to the ECU, retrieving fuel/air ratio and injecting the appropriate amount of fuel.

Would anyone know if it can be done and how much it might cost me?
im thinking of taking it into mitsubishi to find out if it can be done.

Ben

Hello,

My mate knows a bit about windscreen removal and I we are going to do it together on my one cos its cracked.
I would like to know whether its in the workshop manual or whether someone has something they could post online for me.

Cheers,,

Ben

Hi, I know this is my first post. I have been searching around on this site(which is pretty informative).

I have a 2002 Diamante VR-X with 170,xxx miles on it. I was driving the other day when all of the sudden my car wasnt in gear anymore. The neutral light was flashing when this happened. The only thing I heard was a little click when this happened. After searching on this site I have since pulled the TCU and have noticed that the heater core has had a slight leak. I pulled the ECU apart and I couldnt see any evidence of water or anything seeping into the TCU.

I would like to know if there is a way to check to make sure if it is the TCU or if it is something else. I am having a hard time even finding TCU's? I have called a couple of local salvage yards, they tell me that the Transmission control is built into the engine ECU? Everything I have read on this site and others says it is separate.

Thanks for any input or insight.

Justin

Just picked up a 2002 LS with 78k on it. It has a couple of issues, but what 7 year old car doesn't? Was hoping someone could help give me some ideas before I dig into it to fix them.

1. The fuel gauge doesn't work. When I was test driving it, I noticed it, just stayed on E, no movement at all. But, when I filled it up completely, the guage went to full, but after about 20 miles, it dropped back to E. I haven't filled it up again to see if it goes to full again.
2. Radio doesn't work. Not too big of a deal since I'll be putting in my own system later, but it would be nice to have some sound before then since it will be a couple of months. The radio turns on, but no sound. Can switch stations, put a cd in and it appears to be playing. I'm hoping it's just a loose connection, but any other ideas?

That's it. Overall the car is in excellent shape and a blast to drive. Any suggestions on these issues?

Hello All,
Currently struggling to keep a '93 Diamante wagon with a SOHC 6G72 alive. I did the analog meter diagnostic and I'm getting a number 22 code, which is "Crankshaft position sensor fault".
Can anyone tell me where to find the crankshaft position sensor on this engine?

Hi,

I have a bit of a problem. The driver's seat of my 1999 XI Verada doesn't move when I try and move it using its electronic controls.

Does anyone have any idea why and how to fix it please?

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I just got a 1991 Mitsubishi Verada. I was checking my engine oil levels and I have a question about the dipstick in use. It has labeled sides hot and cold which I assume is for whether your checking the engine when its hot or cold. The dipstick has a bottom line but it has no top line. So I am unsure of where the oil line should go to. Now the dip stick bends and it almost forms a triangle shape. Now would the top line be in the center of the bend? So it looks like this --v--------0 If someone could shine some light on this question that would be fantastic.

Cheers.

I just bought another Diamante. It's got all the bells and whistles... you know the ones that are all over the instument panel - some are orange, some are red... ?

It's not in terrible shape - needs a few commom components.

It has code PO443, which is evap / surge - - does anyone know the location of particular trouble spots on this car - where the evap system is prown to developing a crack, etc?

The charging system warning light is also on (you know, the little battery) - so I probably need a new alternator, right? (swapping in another battery already)

Any input is appreciated.

thanks!

Does anyone know if the pipe system they recommend in the manual actually works?

I measured the outside diameter of the trailing arm bushes and it was 55mm (37mm in width). I later realised that a 2.25" (2 & 1/4) outside diameter (OD) pipe with 1/8" (0.12 inch) walls would fit just over the bush and a 2.125" (2 & 1/8th) OD pipe would fit just inside the bush. If the walls were just under an 1/8th of an inch thick, one pipe would slide through the other. Then all I'd need were heavy duty washers to fit over them and a threaded-to-head bolt and nut (high tensile - 8). The pipe wall thickness should be enough if they are steel pipes.

Still it would be great to get any ideas on this because it seems problematic. I know you have to centralise them but its hard not to imagine something going haywire.

Hey

Does anyone have any thoughts or experiences on RDA and/or DBA disc rotors for a TM-TP Magna?

I've been "advised" that the RDA is much better quality than its DBA equivalent (DBA/RDA222 model) for rear disc rotors, with one caveat: if the DBA was a two-piece, instead of a one-piece, it would have comparable quality to the RDA version.

Is this just mechanical mumbo jumbo, or does someone out there know something I don't?

Thanks

Curioso

A question for all:

You know that manual fuel pump that sits at the back of the cylinder head on a TM-TP (1987-1991) carbie? I mean the thing that has an arm that goes under the rocker cover and rests on the camshaft somewhere, and whose outside unit is circular and gold-coloured. Not the one in the fuel tank, but at the cylinder head.

Well you might also know that there's two types of these fuel pumps. The TM has a large gold part, and the TN/TP is a much smaller unit. The arms of course are the same, being a functional component.

My question is, do these differences amount to any difference in fuel efficiency or performance? And would a newer fuel pump be better than an older one (say 20 years even)?

Just wondering because I've made a lot of repairs and upgrades to this 1990 TP sedan but didn't get the fuel economy benefits I was hoping for. Then it occurred to just now that changing the manual fuel pump to a larger TM model (though new) might have been my undoing. The original manual fuel pump has a much smaller body, but I thought that due to the age of it, I should change it out. Now I'm not so sure.

Just thinking I should put the original pump back on but have no idea if this could improve anything? Does anyone have any ideas?

Curioso

I have an icon which has been lit up in orange on my dashboard for over a week now. It says 'Power' and is next to icons 'O/D Off' & 'Hold'. The car is still running as normal so I can't figure out what the problem is. I'd really like to find out what it is referring to so that I can get it fixed.

I am having problems with my transmission so I got a new transmission relay and a different ECU from a junk car.

I have tried 3 ECU units from junk cars, all with the correct part number, but none of them will even start my car.

When I am changing the units, I have the negative battery cable disconnected. When I unplug my ECU and plug the replacement unit it, I hook up the battery but none of them will do anything but crank the engine.

I then disconnect the negative cable and plug my ECU back in - fires up every time.

Do I need to "reset" something to use a replacement ECU?

Thanks.

Too noisy that you could hear it well when your driving.

Ben

Hey, i just bought my 97 diamante almost a week ago. It has a check engine with the code p1400. I found out that its a code for the manifold differential pressure sensor. Can any descriptively tell me where that exactly is or show my with a picture? It will be greatly appreciated. Also, are diamantes equipped with a remote start standard? Thank you
-Mike

Ok, this is how to get your cruise working on a TE/TF Magna after a manual conversion when still using the auto ECU and having bridged pins 9 and 10 on the inhibitor.


This should relate to later models but note that the cruise plugs are different and so too may be the wire colours.

First you need to have a switch on the clutch either a 2-pin clutch switch or 4 pin brake switch.

I won't go into how to get to the cruise ECU because it's all in the manual and if you converted your car yourself you should know where it is..

Pull the cruise plug out of the cruise ECU (any blood?).
On my TF this plug has 18 pins 8 at the top, 10 at the bottom, the manual I have says it's 16 pins so I was confused for quite a while.

From left to right looking at the inside of the plug (clip is at the top) find pin 13, It should be a 3mm Black/Yellow wire, on TH+ this wire is supposed to be black/red according to the manual, but don't quote me on that !

Cut this wire leaving 2 - 3 inches length on either side of the cut.
Strip the wires and attach a crimp to each
Now run a wire from each of these wires to the wires/pins on your clutch switch and crimp them on..
Plug the plug back in, wrap the wires and plugs back up with electrical tape/cable tie etc

Done!
Enjoy cruise control hehe!

Now, above assumes you have a clutch switch on your clutch which has only two pins/wires.

If you are using a brake switch you need to connect these two wires to pins 2 and 3 (top right and bottom left)
I have a spare brake switch if anyone wants it, just pay $5 or so for postage (within oz) and it's yours.

Special thanks to KiT TeUnG (It was pin 13 after all, not 14)

Hi, this is a little hard to explain but here goes.

Manual conversion is all done, cruise control is working and everything is honkie dorie.

Now, the RPM sits a lot higher with the manual which is fine, but.

When my car was automatic the RPM would be around 200-300 higher until the car warmed up (15 minutes or so) then would drop down.
This isn't happening anymore, has anyone found a way to get this to happen after converting? I'm assuming it's some how tied into the Auto ECU ?
Do factory manuals do this too ?