This is a few intake and induction break downs

Thanks to KiT TeUnG 2549 :

pictures included


firing order

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t39546-19...iring-order.htm


Suspension
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t39596-re...04-diamante.htm

rear brakes

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t39132-e-...04-diamante.htm

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

problem solving
use a led test light or a multi meter

long short gives you the codes

http://www.ecmtogo.com/removing_ecm.htm

location
on australian cars
ECI/ECU is on the passengerside kickpanel at glovebox height
TCU is under the carpet below the radio (TR/TS) 4 cyl
or (TR/TS) V6 on the fire wall middle behind the dash


SRS is under the gearshift console

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthre...839075#poststop




order an owners manual
http://www.giantuniverse.com/owners.htm

http://rapidshare.com/files/93856183/TR-TS...Manual_1995.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93851743/Mitsu...2-95_Manual.zip

http://rapidshare.com/files/93849679/6g72_Engine.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93865565/magnaworkshop.part1.rar

http://rapidshare.com/files/93868998/magnaworkshop.part2.rar

http://www.adobe.com/ap/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

http://winrar.download-express.org/

Some Mitsubishi paper car models you can download, print and fold, just for fun (seem to be US models only):

Mitsubishi Paper Cars

Hi, 01 Diamante w/134K miles. No problems at all until this week.

2 days ago, my transmission would not go into drive for 5-8 seconds after starting the car in the morning.

I checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, so I topped it off - no change.

If the car is "cold" (it is summer), if I pull up to a stop and the RPMs get below 1K, the transmission kicks into N. If I brake and rev it up, it will kick back it.

Once the car warms up (5 minutes) the transmission stays engaged.

I have read about the heater core issue and am wondering if this isn't the issue but I have no wet carpets and there isn't a smell. There is a bit of film on the inside of the window. (but I haven't washed it in a while)

The trans. fluid doesn't smell burnt and is still red.

Any ideas? Thanks.

i have a diamante (93 wagon) and one of the ball joint went bad. i got just the ball joint (because i am not paying $400 for a freakin' arm i don't need) and i have the ball joint tool to pop it out but... the ball joint is in pieces. it's been over a decade (actually 14 years when i was still a teen) since i replaced it and i can't remember what i did.

i have the actual ball joint. ok. i have a boot, yes. i have the lock nut, ok. i have the grease that goes in the joint.. fine. then i have this collar ring and 2 different notches on the ball joint. which notch does it go on? the first one? if so, then i don't think it'll sit right when pressed into the suspension. if it goes on the bottom... um, it doesn't look big enough and if so, then i guess i would have to get a tool to pry the collar open and snap it in the notch.

help me out here. if pics are needed, let me know, i'll snap some. thanks!!

Hi

I've got a deal on some Boge front struts for a 1990 TP Magna, but I have no idea of the brand. Like everyone else, I use Monroe GT Gas.

Has anyone used this brand of shocks before or know anything about them?

Curioso

I get an intermittent charge light on my 92 Magna - the radio/CD player goes off at the same time. It does not seem to last for more that a couple of seconds. Any thoughts?
Dunc.

Hello all,

Car: Verada Ei:Kf (1999)

The dip stick for the power steering fluid shows below the Min mark.
I guess i should top it up. Is there a particular brand that i should be using?
Apologies but i'm a bit of a goof with cars

Если переводчиком умеете пользоваться, то можем немного пообщаться. У меня тоже демон F31A 6G73 GDI, эксплуатирую уже 3 года, тачка супер. Попробуем пообщаться, если получится конечно.

Hi everyone I have a 93 KR verada and it has recently started playing up abit!

Ok first of all after driving for say 5 mins at normal 50-60kmp speeds the alarm light comes on,
And secondly I seem to have a power surge of some sort , now how I noticed this was, I was coming home one night and noticed my headlights dimming and then going brighter, as were the lights in the cluster, on further inspection I noticed the car making a short surging sound , this sounds seems to be the problem for the electrical powerloss, Now I followed the noise to what looks like the fuel pump ( a black hose line going into it with a few wire connections ) sitting on top of the GEARBOX (when looking down into engine from drivers side) these lines run to a regulator or something! Any help on what this mysterious object is would be great and what would cause it to make this sound , This car has been great to me it is immaculate and never givin me trouble !! Thanks in advance Trizmo

Hi

I found some Wikipedia info on the First Generation Astron II 2.6 litre 4G54 (or G54B) engine at http://magna.trynsave.net/index.php?title=1g_Astron_II

Does anyone know what the expected or optimum fuel usage (liters per 100km) when its new?

I'm thinking of getting a short engine (the block part) because I already have a new cylinder head (not recon, brand new). At 16.5l/100km at the moment, if I got 12.5l/100km after that, I'd be able to pay for the block within two years even at current fuel prices. But I don't know what it is supposed to be getting with a carbie model when the block and head are new.

Thanks in advance

Curioso

hi there i have a 1978 sigma and im putting a 4g63 sohc turbo in her and wonting to put ae lsd in to tighten up the back end
just wonder if any one knows what lsd fit into 1978 sigmas thanks

My 98 Diamante has a transmission oil leak on the passenger side drive axle. There's some movement from the shaft as if the bearing is worn. The driver's side does not have this movement. Would it be advisable to change just the seal or would changing the axle correct the sloppy fit and movement? Or does the transmission have to be disassembled?

Is anyone well enough versed in exhaust systems to answer this?

I've got a 1990 Carbie Magna with an EFI exhaust system (i.e. Extractors with an O2 sensor that isn't used) and the single cat directly under the body about halfway along, with a small muffler near it as well as the rear muffler at the very end).

I'd like to put in carbie-type extractors - i.e. the ones with the curly hot air pipe that feeds some exhaust gas back into the air filter through that one-way valve. But the carbie extractors have different joining points (and pipe lengths) than the EFI set.

Can I cut the pipe roughly at the same point where the EFI extractor head main pipe would connect to its next second stage, and weld a flange on at that correct position? Or do I need the full carbie exhaust system up to (but excluding) the rear muffler? I'm sure the rearmost muffler, as a fairly small unit, is compatible with both types of systems.

What I mean is, can these things operate on a mix-and-match basis, or should they be installed as full piping systems (bar the rear muffler)?

Hi

A mate of mine's TP 1990 Magna has kind of a noisy engine. He hasn't lifted the rocker cover yet but it seems to be coming out of there. Reckons he changed the tappets 15 months ago though.

Does anyone know what a rattling in the cylinder head might be? If so, how would you fix it? Seems like the tappets can't be adjusted all that much but I don't know. He claims that when he put on a new cylinder head 15 months ago, he torqued everything to its right Nm, and gave the valve stem oil seals the right clearance so where to from there?

Curioso

Hi Guys

I recently removed my battery tray to paint the area underneath it as there were some rust spots. I angle grinded it, sandpapered, rust converted, etch primed, primer surfacer (x3) and topcoated it. The tray had already had all this done to it a few months before, including some clearcoat which I don't recommend. I also spray everything that has had prior rust or corrosion with a very light smatter of anti-corrosive spray with lanolin (woolgrease) as it lasts years and stops water build-up. You can't get it off with anything but metho but dust does stick to it so aesthetically it is a downer for some. It's especially good for the battery's terminal posts and clamps. I also used gap filler between the tray holes and the chassis.

Anyway, that's what I did to the chassis area underneath the battery tray. It looked great. But when I reinstalled the battery hold down clamps, I overtightened them. I've recently being busting a gut at the gym, and don't know my own strength (I've been lifting weights in the last couple months that used to astonish me when I saw others doing them). So I nearly warped the battery case and did back off a bit on the clamp nuts.

The next time I drove, and until I changed the hold down clamp, the battery warning light would intermittently come on very often, and often stay on for up to about 3 minutes, though usually far less than that. This happened for almost a month. But after changing the hold down clamp yesterday to a plastic one, the light never comes on (so far).

Could it be that some sort of current was being generated within the all-metal clamping mechanism, due to the new paint or other chemicals used? I would be very interest to hear your well-considered interpretations.

Does anyone think it's important to centre a Power Steering rack by turning the pinion to the middle point?

I've got this TP Magna with a reconditioned Power Steering Rack that was put in a lot out of centre. The mechanic said he wasn't sure if it was a problem, so I don't know.

It doesn't seem to affect the turning circle - I guess that is determined by the tie rod ends. But would it affect anything?

I know you have to turn the Power Steering Rack all the way to the right to be able to extract the rack from the car when removing it, but should you recentre the pinion with some multigrips (i.e. calculate the number of turns and thus the centre point of the cycle)?

Curisoso

My power outlet quit working that is located on the consloe on my 2002 LS. Per the owners manual there is no mention of a fuse for that outlet so I had to test every fuse in the engine compartment and under the dash. All fuses tested OK. Now what...? The unit that I had plugged in when it quit working got very hot.. Is there a fusable link? What is the best way to pop that out?

Thanks..

Hi

I've sometimes wondered, what lights are supposed to come on the dash when you turn the key to Accessories on a TM-TP (1987-1991)? I know the BRAKE word, Oil Low (oil can), Battery Low (battery) and Globe Failure (globe with cross through it)lights should come on, but should any others? What about the Overheating/High Temperature (Thermometer) light?

When you don't know this, you could get a warning light and not see it because the globe failed but you didn't know as you weren't looking for it to come up on the "lights check" when you turn the ignition key just prior to cranking the starter motor.

I've scoured the internet and TN Series Manual but there's nothing about this anywhere.

Curioso

I dont know what it is.. ill try to find some pictures to post up , but heres the story


I always noticed whenever i would go around corners fast it felt like the tires were folding on it.. Weird sort of feeling, Almost thought my tire was flat but nope.. SO i ended up bringing it to a frame and axle specialist, They said nothing is bent or broken , but ( i cant remember the name ) some bolts on the control arm could not budge lose so they really couldnt align the rear end.. ( well , they could have, but they didnt have the parts, and would have to torch them off, and i need my car )


So basically all i can do is tell you what i see .. If you look from the rear end the bottom of the tire is kicked out like its squating, putting alot of wear on the inside of both wheels .. But you wouldnt notice anything by just going straight .. Well It turned out to be alot worse than i thought... So i just need to know what people might think it is.. Coil springs and shocks seem very good and there not broke or leaking, so I have no idea.. I love the car but this problem needs to get fixed and i dont know what to do




heres a few pics of the left side tire.. the right looks exactly the same

A question for all:

You know that manual fuel pump that sits at the back of the cylinder head on a TM-TP (1987-1991) carbie? I mean the thing that has an arm that goes under the rocker cover and rests on the camshaft somewhere, and whose outside unit is circular and gold-coloured. Not the one in the fuel tank, but at the cylinder head.

Well you might also know that there's two types of these fuel pumps. The TM has a large gold part, and the TN/TP is a much smaller unit. The arms of course are the same, being a functional component.

My question is, do these differences amount to any difference in fuel efficiency or performance? And would a newer fuel pump be better than an older one (say 20 years even)?

Just wondering because I've made a lot of repairs and upgrades to this 1990 TP sedan but didn't get the fuel economy benefits I was hoping for. Then it occurred to just now that changing the manual fuel pump to a larger TM model (though new) might have been my undoing. The original manual fuel pump has a much smaller body, but I thought that due to the age of it, I should change it out. Now I'm not so sure.

Just thinking I should put the original pump back on but have no idea if this could improve anything? Does anyone have any ideas?

Curioso

Hey

On a friend's TP, I repaired the Rear Demister/Defogger Tab with a Permatex repair kit for both the tab adhesive and gridlines. After steaming up the rear window almost totally though, the demister didn't work.

Any ideas why? The fuse was fine (20 amp).

Originally I took the job on because while the cable was being reconnected to one of the tabs recently, the tab broke off the grid.

Curioso

1993 Diamante Wagon

6G72 SOHC (per bank)

runs fine cold and warming up, when hot(operating temp) the spark goes away, comes back after it cools off.

Just got a 93 manga 2.6L, and it get hot and the fans dont come on, so I have been using the A/C to kick the fans on.
Just installed a a new thremo there was not one .
so here is the first Q in what direction do I install the new thermo stat? with the butt going into the Housing or the butt going into the manifold??

Next question, what else would be the prob with the fans bad sensor some were?


thanks Sean

Can someone please advice the reason behind this issue, i'm not entirely well versed with cars.

I have a verada Ei:Kf. Whenever i start the car (initial start in the morning or back from work), there's always this knocking sound that occurs for a good few mins.It then goes away when i've driven for a few mins. Is there something wrong with the engine?

Here is the scenario...

I dropped a penny in the console lighter socket and blew the accessory fuse. I replaced it and ever since I've been having a weird problem

The driver side door lock doesn't work when the ignition is off. I can only lock the doors from the passenger side. The funny thing is , it only works when the ignition is on but it wont work when the car is off?

What the hell is going on???

Hi just purchased a 97 Verada KE Xi - runs sweet, has some quirky things going on, horn not working, drivers seat wants to turn sideways (think motor is no good on one side??). Prev owner took stacker with him so all we have is crackling - quiet - kinda nice though! Would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction for a manual so I can figure some of this out, thanks!!

Hey fellas, I am in need of doing a rear brake job on my 97 LS. I do not like to take my car to the shop to get ripped off. I was wondering if there was some write up of how to do the rears on the D. I must say that I'm a pretty good mechanic, so I should be able to tackle this job. I do all of my own work with the exception of water pumps and timing belts and trans jobs. I hope I can get some type of response on this one. Thanks in advance.

Replaced a starter motor on a Mitsubishi magna TR executive V6 93.
Turn the key and I can hear it engage but it is only touching the outer part of the flywheel.
Took it off and I can see the wear on the outer part of the flywheel (from the new starter motor)
I don't really want to give up on this one but I don't want to end up having to replace the flywheel by being stubborn.
Has anyone replaced the starter before and is there a knack to it that they would mind sharing with me?

Signed persistent

While i was looing into the actuator motor click I disconnected the passenger airbag and turned the car on with that connector disconnected. I read on another post that it can only be reset by a machine. Is this true? I have a 99 diamante and everything is hooked back up. Thanks.

Hi there, Is anyone know how to install the angel eyes on para headlight and where I can purchase them from (either from eBay)?
I found few products on eBay but I need the diameter of the para headlight but I cant measure without open it up ...so anyone know what the exact diameter is?


Thanks mate

im wondering about putting a pod filter on. any one already done this etc? tips etc?

Hi Guys

Just want to know if you can buy those plastic expansion plug type things that hold the plastic parts to the metal parts. Such as the underbody splash guards to the chassis, or the air filter induction nozzle to the front radiator support.

The plastic expansion things work with a plastic phillips headed countersunk screw that pushes into the plastic bushing, expanding it and retaining your plastic part. To remove you unscrew the phillips headed screw and pop the plastic part.

Done some work and had to destroy a few as I couldn't get the plastic screw out, lost a few, you know how it goes?

Do you have to scrounge a wreckers yard, go to a Mitsu Dealer, or there is aftermarket available? as I know my kids commodore has a number of these things too...

Thanks!

Hi, I was wondering if someone could tell me what type of bulb I need to replace the licence plate lamp on my 1990 TP Magna; part no., wattage, etc. The Operator's Manual doesn't say.

Also, when this bulb fails, the filament should be broken like an ordinary incandescent bulb, right? Because the light isn't working and I took the bulb out, but it doesn't look broken. There is some blackening around the bulb fitting which looks unusual, though.

Cheers

Hello

I'm looking the the torque specs for the bolt in the harmonic balancer.

1994 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.0 DOHC

Thanks

Battery is good; get nothing; i.e., no cranking of starter at all when key is turned. Car has been sitting out all winter and just put new battery in as old one needed replacing anyway. Probably the starter / solenoid but just wondering if there is a fuse or something I may be overlooking.

hello out there... can anyone give me some information on the black fuse box under the hood of my 1992 diamante LS. can the AC fuse be causing my unit to come on at different times..if this is true, how do I change that fuse. any information you can give about this box will be highly appreciated.

Hi all,

Today i had the shifter replaced in the missus 93 model 2.6l magna. The reason i had this done as i was advised by an auto elec that the overdrive button was rooted and that it was easier to replace the whole shifter. I took the car to the mitsubishi wreckers and got them to install a second hand shifter. All is good now overdrive works perfectly however the shifter is loose and has a sloppy feel to it as in i can wiggle it around a few millimeters side to side. The old shifter was as tight as a nun's cu#t and i'm wondering if it's worth taking it back to get them to adjust it up and tighten it a little. To be honest i have never driven an auto where the shifter has been this loose/sloppy before. It is not affecting gear changes however i do not believe that it should be as it is. Should the shifter fit tight and snug or do some have a sloppy/loose feel to them?

cheers - matthew

hello all. I would appreciate any help you can give concerning my problem. It all started when my ac/heater control stop working properly. The unit would come on sometimes and sometimes it would not. The fan will often come on in the off position. the air and heat works fine when it comes on. The problem is I had no idea when it would .

Now my radio, cd, and car alarm is doing the same thing...I took the car to Pep boys and they told me my problem was in the ac/heat control head...this they said would cost $545 plus $175 to install.
I was able to secure a used head from a slavage yard for much less but it still did not work. I hope someone out there can help because I know that I cannot afford the Dealer's cost for this. Please help if you can...It gets very hot in the summer here.

Hey there

I've got a 91 TR magna. When driving it has started to change gear all on it's own. It can drop back from top to 1st or second, it almost conks out.

I was told it could be the computer transmission controller thing (not sure of its real name)

I disconected the battery and left it for a minute and it drove OK for about 10 minutes. Then it started playing up again.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Hi, trying to install an amp into my 03 Diamante LE (righthand drive).
These new cars are so tight now, never had trouble running the power cable through a gromet to the inside before.
Just cant seem to find a way...
Please help.... I NEED SOME BASS!!!!
Thanks in advace to everyone

Hi all. Just wanting to know how i can retard the timing on a mates 2.6lt magna. there is no diagnostic port under bonnet as stated in manual so am a bit stumped. all advice appreciated

Hey people, I have a little question for you all. I have a 97 diamante LS. I think that my switch cluster on the driver side door is going out. When letting my driver side window down, I must kinda ****le with the switch to get it to go down and then, it usually goes all the way down and won't stop. Also the left mirror has a problem moving with the switch. Also, what would make the heated mirrors stop heating. I am at a loss right now. Please HELP....

hello again...I need someone to explain the usage of the black fuse box under the hood of my 92 diamante LS. I know about the fuse box inside on the driver's side. I believe my ac/heater is somehow having problems because I hear a clicking inside the box when I connect the battery. I know there are answers out there..please help

Ok a summary... My father has a 99 Diamante with California emissions (just the car, we are in New York), with a cat on either side of the engine, and another under the car. He once had one of the side cats replaced, and the part was over a grand. Mitsubishi parts are notorious I know, but that's over the top I feel :-P. Anyhoo, he has an intermittent service engine soon light, and has been told by the mechanic that it's a result of the cat being clogged (the one under the car), which I assume is an O2 sensor code. I have a few questions here...

I looked on Rockauto, and there are cats for around $200, but they all specify not for cars "licensed" in California. Does this mean it actually won't fit on the California emissions car, or that it simply won't pass California standards? Basically, I want to know if one of these can be put on my father's without any problems or codes tripping (for inspection and such). I wasn't sure if the computer or any other issues were different or problematic--like if the service light would trip because of the fact that it's a California car. I have a hunch it would fit, as the bit on Rockauto says not "legal" for sale out of CA, not that it won't work, but I don't want to advise him of this and then have the light trip and have to get the more expensive one anyway.

Also, is there a way to press anything on the dash/stereo area to pull up a list of tripped codes, and also clear them? I'm a Cadillac guy, and there is such a feature, but I'm unfamiliar with this setup. If not, how does one check and clear codes on this car?

97 Diamonte 3.5 L

Start it up, runs fine for a few seconds then idles up fast. Stabalizes again for a few seconds then fast again. Does this 4-5 times then dies.

The car was recently brought to me because of the inconsistent idle but I didn't have time to look into it. Then his timing belt (stationary) pully and water pump locked up. When he pulled it back I rotated the engine by hand to TDC, the cam sprockets weren't perfectly aligned (one was a couple of teeth). I replaced the pump, pulley and belt, lined all the marks up and got her fired back up. Has a light peck near the #1 cyl but otherwise sounds great until it idles up and down (then dies).

Couple of questions...

1. If it had incurred any serious damage when the pulley gave out (bearings literally separated from the wheel leaving slack in the belt) wouldn't it have some terrible noise now? Owner was not sure if the pecking noise was there before.

2. I know it had the inconsistent idle before but it didn't die. The owner said he stripped a bolt out in the intake (air) on a previous repair (why he brought it to me initially). Would an air leak cause this much of an idle issue?

By the way, their is no MIL light on and no soft codes stored in memory.

I'm a little reluctant to fire it back up until I have a better idea of the idle / die problem (until I'm confident he didn't bend / warp a valve) especially sine I have very little solid performance history on the car.

All thoughts greatly appreciated.

My 2002 Diamonte LS continues to have an interesting problem (has had this issue for years)... When driven for at least a half hour - freeway driving mostly - and then parked for more than 30 minutes if I restart the car the idle is very rough - almost stalls - if I give it some gas it returns to normal in a few seconds.. Any troubleshooting ideas? Less than 30 minutes no issue.... More than about an hour no issues..

I did clean the throttle body which made a difference in the idle during normal driving circumstamces when you stop in traffic but did not impact this issue.

Thanks