who makes split cv boot for a 92 diamante?

Hey all,

haven't been on here munch lately, been looking for a new car and was looking at a legnum and couldn't get insurance for it because i lost my license last year. so i spotted a 2000 TJ Sports for $12000 and went and had a squiz at it. I went to do an oil change on my TS and found a heap of water in it and oil was in the water so i traded it in. i got $4300 for it i took my rims, stereo system, leather seat covers (up for sale if anyone wants them). all told with a few things fixed on the car (including $2000 of the price) was $5700 he he

its only done 122,000
hers a few pics of it.









p.s i know its missing fog lights

I've been having ongoing transmission problems with my Verada V6 . It completely failed a short while ago and it cost $3000 to repair. Ouch!

Recently problem have been recurring it has been slipping when starting off, much more than it should and I imagine it will not last much longer. I intend to try a repair myself, having been keen on car repair in my past and presently short of cash and havbe lost faith in local mechanics.

I was looking for advice on what I should be looking for as the cause of the problem and what parts I should aim to replace. I understand the gearbox has no bands and is a clutch driven system. Would the slipping be likely to be in the torque converter or is it more likely to be another clutch?

I have noticed that when going down hill if you put the transmission in 3 or 2 or 1 there is no noticable engine braking so you can't use engine braking on steep hills. Is this normal?

Dear all,

i have a wierd problem with my car. roughly once in 20-30 days i get the check engine light on my dash board and the engine switches off by itself in the middle of the road. If I try to turn the engine on then i get this click noise contineously from the left side of the dash board along with the check engine light.. (also had some burning smell one of the times) Then i wait for about 3 minutes and try to turn on the engine ..everythings perfect.

Background:

I am driving a 1992 mitsubishi Magna Executive TR Auto. it has done 197,000 kms. I bought the car when it had done 190,000 kms.Towards 194,600 + i started having this problem intermittently like once in 4 days or so. So gave it for a service. the mechanic said no problems detected by the car computer. he just changed oil and stuff after the service the car had no problems whatsoever. last month when i reading was about 196,500 i started having the same problem the reading now is 196987. had the same issue twice since then
i checked with one of the auto electrician. he said its the problem with the computer itself.. can someone tell me why i am having this problem and what needs to be done to rectify it .

thanx in advance

Shree

Hi All,

This is my 1st post, so forgive me if I dont quite get it right.

I own a 1999 Verada, and tonight I was doing some "extra curicular" driving on the roads with traction control off (TCL OFF), and when I finished, the orange "TCL OFF" button just keeps flashing at me??

Can anyone shed some light on this?

NeLiTu

I have an 03 diamante fwd in america and i need to get spring i am very unhappy with the ride quality of the stock springs and i want it a tad lower not much no more than 2inches.

Thanks,
Stephanie

I'm trying to find an intake to fit a 1986 Starion 2.6 , I think it came from a 2nd gen. magna. Thanks in advance Mike.

I have a Mitsub Verada 1995 which has done 260,000k's. Recently I have had the injectors cleaned, new plugs, leads etc, new PC Value (smoked a lot whilst sitting in idle), Still does when sitting at lights for long periods, but no where near as much, also the TPS was replaced in the last 12 months

The motor, when sitting in idle for only a few seconds starts to "stutter", fluctuating from 700rpms to 500rpms, and causes the car to rock each time. not violently but enough to be annoying when sitting at the lights.

The automechanic suggested I use Platinum plugs on this car, however I have spent so much money trying to get this and other reoccuring problems fixed over the last 3 years, that I dont want to "try" things that are not going to fix my problems..

Could this simply be a spark plug issue..??? The car runs fine generally. I have tried regular plugs however this didnt seem to help, in the past I was using plugs for older cars that can handle the heat better?!! this did seem to help some.

any help would be appreciated

thanks

My 1995 V6 TS Magna has coolant leaking onto the top of the oil filter housing.
I was not able to determine the source of the leak but I am concerned it could be the waterpump? Can anybody advise if it is likely to be the waterpump and what the costs could be?

Hi there guys, new to the forum and have a quik question.

I am in desperate need of a cheap car and a co-worker is selling her 94 Diamonte for 1000.00. It has recently had the tranny redone, heads and from what she says its in superb condition. Power everything .. sunroof and it raises as well.. CD player.... I will get a look at it tomorrow. She says that they ( she and he husband ) have documented all repairs and scheduled maintenance.

Three things are making me take pause atm.

1. It has 180k miles

2. Cracked windshield ( but she has a friend with a car dealership that can replace this for 200.00 )

3 She says that it frequently stalls.

Any advice on this car and ideas on the stalling issue?
She recently had a airflow installed but this failed to fix the problem. I am hoping a throttle adjustment and or cleaning will do the trick. Figured I`d ask here in case there are known issues with this year/model stalling.

Thx in advance,
Rob

Hi there, i am new to the forum In fact i am new to the cars world too, i ride a motorbike but recently decided to buy a car as well.

I bought this car 3 days ago and today i noticed that "Check Engine" lights is on and stays red all the time when i drive. I havent noticed that before. Last owner said that hey had some problems with the car but after replacing the battery it was working fine, not sure if the battery has anything to do with it but it could be a clue to you car gurus He also mentioned that the car uses quite a lot of coolant.

its 1993 Magna with 130.000 km on the clock.

Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks

Pawel

1994 Verada - Stalling when idling in hot weather.
Hi All
I have a problem that has been plaguing my car for about a year now. I have taken it to two different mechanics and they both have fixed different things (which will explain below) but to no avail. I was hoping that somebody may know something, or have a similar experience and perhaps could offer some suggestions. Here are the details.

Car: Mitsubishi Verada V6ei 1994, Automatic.

Symptoms: Car only stalls in warm/hot (i.e. >25deg C) weather when idling and when the engine is warm. The car doesn’t start immediately upon a stall, but if you let it sit for about 10 min, it starts up again. (If the weather is cold, the car works perfectly)

Things that have been repaired to try to fix it: Computer chip scan/reset, fuel system pressure check (and is fine), distributer replaced.

Any ideas?? Any similar problems?
If you need any extra info just reply here and ill answer the best I can.
Thanks in advance, Jez.

[FONT=Times] I have a 2000 Diamante. Last night as I was driving home and I noticed the service engine light on. I thought that maybe the day before when I had gotten gas I didn't get the cap on tight enough.

So when I got home, I shut the car off and undid the cap and made sure it clicked. I thought surely starting my car multiple times today that the light would go off.

I went and got an oil change and the mechanic made no mention of the light or anything being wrong with the car. I hate to pay to take it to the dealer when it could be as simple as a leaky cap or something. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm open to them.

Thanks!

Hi everyone. I recently picked up a 96 Diamante 2.5 sohc that seems in good order apart from a couple of things - just wondering if anyone on here has come across these problems before;

1) When i first got the car i realised it had a bit of trouble when cold and would sometimes stall when putting it into gear. It also had a very high idle when warm (1500rpm). I adjusted the idle screw in the throttle to bring the warm idle back down to about 900rpm, and now the car will not idle at all when it's cold, i have to keep giving it gas for a minute or so. It seems the previous owner had adjusted the idle screw out to try and mask the cold idle problem. I spotted a thread somewhere that says to clean the throttle body out, i've done this but it made no difference. Anyone know where i should look next? The idle control valve is on the underside of the throttle body correct? Im thinking i might pull it off and see if i can clean its insides?

2) Now on to the other fault, electric windows. All windows will wind down fine from any switch, but more often than not, *most* windows will only wind up about 2 inches at a time, you just have to keep pulling on the switch again and again till its at the top. I say *most* because the drivers window has actually just stopped doing this and is now operating perfectly lol - Any ideas here?

Any help's much appreciated - Cheers

Gene

I have a friend with a 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante ES. I did new plugs and wires (two wires contacts were not in properly and corroded, and one of the plugs actually broke when I took it out...ish...) and started it up and discovered another problem.

Occasionally, while it was idling, it would suddenly cut out and sort of stall, but recover in a second. When it cuts out, there is a click from over near the glove box area, which I'm assuming is the computer doing something. While it's half stalled, for that one second or so, the check engine light is on, and it goes back off when the engine recovers.

I know this car has had a little issue with the check engine light. Once in a while (not often), when starting the car up, the check engine light would come on....but in those cases, the engine did not seem to have any adverse running conditions. Turning the car off and starting it again would seem to remove the light.

After sitting a minute, the cut-out problem seemed to go away, though I did not want to continue running the engine with it doing that, so I did not keep it going for more than a couple minutes (the temp gauge was just starting to rise). I also have not driven it anywhere since.

I'm more of a Caddy person when it comes to knowing the car well, so this thing is a little foreign to me, and I do not know how to read the codes on it. If someone could assist me in what might be causing this, I'd be grateful.

Update: For diagnostic's sake, I drove it down the road a bit. It did happen a couple times while driving as well. It manifested as an rpm drop (I'd say 200-300 rpm), and one of the times I felt it jolt while doing so. The jolt seemed less when I was cruising back (sort of down hill continuously) with the O/D off.

OK, I've been able to duplicate the problem enough now to know it's the A/C compressor that's clicking...and I guess sort of catching and putting more strain on the engine than it's supposed to....so if that means the compressor's shot...or going...or it's just low on refrigerant?

When the fuel cap cover lever is pulled in the cabin of the car, the cover won't spring open. It takes two to fill the car up with petrol now

I checked the action of the pin in the fuel cap well and it is moving in and out but when it moves and releases the cap cover, the cover won't spring open. Any suggestions to fix this problem, please. Thanks in advance.

I thought id make a thread re GNs.
Mines a 85 2.6 astron2 5 speed <130000 km, when I bought her i found the temp gauge stayed cold (~1/4).
Turned out someone 'jimmyed' the car to look like it was running cool, they fitted a short temp sender unit to the head (didnt hane the tip out in the coolant stream like the proper one has). So I changed it and found she ran just above the ends of the wavey lines at the center of the gauge....untill it got work, when it would heat up to 2/3 ~ 3/4.

I did some work to the carby and refilled the coolant (every filled with same amount I drained out + I purged the air out at the upper choke coolant connection), ran the eng up and started doing adjustments. I noticed the top rad hose was cold ! the bottom one was extreamly hot ! looked at the gauge !!!! hard over in the red.
Turned it off & removed the thermostat (it stuck shut) got hot water n refilled the cooling system before running the eng to cool, guess what? started getting milky oil :-( thought it might have just been the gasket, head was <0.002 thou out of flat.
So I did a valve job n put it back on, seemed ok but temp still behaved the same....then the milky started again (slight foaming in the coolant (air)).

Tryed using chemiweld, followed all recomendations. but after a month it got worce n started lossing coolant faster to the sump. removed the cam and rocker gear, wiped the head down and pressurized the cooling system (14 psi).
Beads of coolant apeared from the front of #3 cam bearing, it had a 3" crack traveling toward the rear of the head :-(.

Got a m6 casting to replace the m2 head, did the valves and installed the m2 cam n rocker gear etc (easy change over) :-) temp stays around 1/2 now what ever I do driving


>>>Key points I found: 1 > heats up when eng is working (cooling sys in good cond)
2 > head was not adheared to head gasket (but the gasket did stick to the block)
3 > carfully moniter the temp of the hoses n gauge after anything involving coolant removal and replacement.

Hi all, I have a problem with my Sigma ´93 12 valve.

Guess I forgot to close a door or something which dried out the battery, so I plugged it out to recharge it overnight to plug it back in the day after. But now everything is acting crazy, windows goes up and down when I work the throttle so does the central locking system as well as the sunroof is opening by itself and smoke came out from behind the stereo.

Any help will be highly appreciated !

Cheers
Mj

hey how ya'll doing,

First of all i drive a 1994 Mitsubishi Magna Station wagon, with auto
just wanted to know a few things, the first thing i have been looking for but couldnt find is, is it bad if you turn o/d or a/t on or off while driving? like say ur going 50 and u have it on and u turn it off will that damage ur car (like while ur moving and all)?

Also sometimes when i turn my car on i have a bit of black smoke coming out the back.. any suggestions on that?

Thanks a lot

Hi. I need a bit of help here, guys, if you can give it to me.

I know it might be impossible, but it'll be interesting to see if anyone can get some information on it for me as I couldn't find any myself. All of the information I'll be giving below if from my Dad and from a friend. It happened many years ago, so it may not be completely correct.

My Dad owned a tuned, one-of-a-kind Mitsubishi Sigma 2.6 from the late 1970s/ early 1980s, one of the first cars to get a turbo in Australia. They both said it went like absolute stink, killed anything at the traffic lights. It was red, and my Dad added orange stripes to it. The car was also in some magazine (can't remember the name), and had all of the car's specifications and performance figures in there. He did have the magazine, but he got rid of it.

Can anyone help here? Any information is appreciated.

Thanks!

My 92 2.6 Magna check engine light comes on after a couple of minutes and the transmission hangs on and only changes into third at 70 k and top at 90k It also cuts out on sharp bends. Any answers would be appreciated

Help please! I need an expert or great knowledge!
Here are a few facts you should know.
-2001 Diamante LS
-Heater Core O-Rings replaced at time of vehicle purchase
-The coolant temp is normal in all sorts of driving, indicating no thermostat problem (also hoses feel normal hot)


Heres the consistent problem.
I start my car, and while driving to work, I have the digital heat set to 80 degrees. Between 25-40 minutes later, the heater starts to blow cool air. I can then raise the heat to anywhere between 81-89 degrees (to which heat comes back on), and now within only 5 minutes, heat blows cool again. I will not get heat back until the car is shut off for a minimum 30 min. The longer the car is shut off, the longer the heat will last once I start the car before it blows cool again. However, (heres the catch) if I max out the heat to 90 degrees, it will always maintain 90, and never blow cool. If I lower it one degree to 89, it will then blow cool again. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON? Please help!

I had it smog checked to see what the problem was.

All emissions are fine except for the check engine light is on indicating a ODB code 41. And the ignition timing is a little off.

The repairs are too expensive to maybe have the light come off.

I tried disconnecting the battery for over an hour and drove maybe 1.5 miles before it came back on.

How long does it have to be off for to get passed the smog checker?

I would like to just physically disconnect the light or remove the lightbulb.

If I do that does the smog checker still check for computer codes?

I don' care about taking out the light, I just need the light off so I can register it, drive it around for a few months an get rid of it.

Hi there,

Last week I bought a Magna 93 V6 Wagon Executive. Everyting was working just fine. After a few days the engine was boiling. The problem was a broken fan relais.
Than a few days later, the aircon was turned on and working, but there was almost no air coming in. One day later, the air WAS coming in, but only warm air. 2 days later, I tried to start the car in the moring, but the battery was dead, so yesterday I went to the shop and bought a new one.
Today my new battery is dead! Something is draining it and I can't figure out what it is.

Can anyone help me with this?

wen driving (cold engine) the engine (rpm) tends to jump up nd down bout 2 -3 times b4 going into 3rd gear.
wen engine is hot, the problem is mostly eliminated but still occurs from time to time..
is this a big problem?
transmission problem?|
shud i get it checked out?|
wat cud b causing this?

I had a flat battery and now need to enter my security code in order to get the radio working on my 2004 Magna. I know my code, but dont have my owner manual. Can somebody please tell me how to enter the security code.

many thanks, Andrea

Hi, I have a Mitsubishi Sigma, not used for 4 years, I drove it for a month or so, everythink was fine. I left it in my garage for 3 month, try to drive it today: in park or neutral the engine runs just fine, when I switch in drive and depress the gas pedal the hole engine start making a strong rattling noise, the car vibrate. After the car reaches a stady speed everythink si again nice and smooth. In other words the problem apears only when the engine is under load. Could be a vacum sensor or..... Any ideeas ?

Thanks,
Franz

I recently purchased a 1994 Diamante LS (Non Calif.) from a good friend of mine with 135000 miles on it. The vehicle has received regular maintenance, and recently underwent a valve job at 120000 miles. Folloiwng a fluid check of the engine recently, I undertaook a simple cleaning of the engine compartment, which involved a low pressue rinsing of the front exhaust manifold cover and forward end of the engine (near radiator). Upon completion of the cleaning operation, I moved the car from the driveway, and it ran just fine with normal idle. Returing to the car some two hours later, however, the vehicle idle was quite poor (rough), and the check engine light came on. Although driveable, the vehicle has suffred a significant loss of power, and continues to idle very roughly, with the check engine light continuing to be lit. Can you provide me with any idea as to what might be the problem? Did rinsing the engine contribute to it? (I have cleaned the ngine before, to no ill effect) Any idea or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You!

hey everyone new member here. i bought a runabout magna 89 and im just wondering how to remove the stereo i have in at the moment. i have a new one im trying to install.

Hi recently i have encounted a problem where the regulator/whatever is behind the glove box starts clicking and the car stalls. It can happen at idle or whilst driving down the road. Upon trying to restart it just makes a clicking sound behind the g/box. The enging is turning over but wont fire all the while clicking madly behind the g/box. I had it at an auto elec for over a week and he couldn't diagnose the problem but sandblasted something in the dizzy. The car wont start for between 1 - 20 minutes when this happens and this mostly happens when it's cold but not always. I replaced the regulator and now the coil and hopefully it should be fine although i have been told if it's keeps happening i will need to replace the computer. Does anyone know what may be causing this? Its a build date 11/92 magna 2.6l 4cyl auto.

Cheers - Matt

Thanks in advance for anyonw who has any ideas

Hey,

Does any one know how to significantly increase economy of a TS Magna GLX?

Am a student, and maybe forced to let go if I cant get more for my buck.

Thanks,
Som

Hey guys.
I am currently restoring my 80 model scorpion.
I am not quite sure on how to remove the dash. I cant reach some of the plugs on the back of the dash. is there an easier way to do it? or should i leave the dash in and paint the car with the dash still in the car??
also the dash is badly cracked what do you think i should do?
any help would be appreciated. thanks guys