Hi, i'm lthiele, and my mum drives a 1992 Magna TR Executive Station Wagon, but recently the guage has been saying that the engine's only just above cold.Tonight when we stopped the engine warmed up a bit, so i opened the bonnet and the fans never came on as they only come on when it's hot. We're booking it in for a service soon.

Hi everybody,

Does anybody can help me to find specifications for my Mitsubishi magna tj advanced. I got Evoscan data logger and try to find out if my lovely car has any problems, but I need specification to know what parameters are in first place. I don't anythin that I can compare with.

If anyone know where can I get specifications, please, let me know.
Any help wlill be highly appreciated.

THanks a lot,
Felix.

I'm a little confused as to what type of Magna I have?

Although I assumed I had an Elante, Is it a GT?

I noticed a lot of Elantes had different wheels to mine, and I also didn't have a side skirt, alhough I though it may have been removed.

How can you tell, is the VIN number have any codes that can tell you?

I would like some way to be able to drive with the foglights on without having to turn on the low beams, what do you guys think would be the best way of going about doing this?
I would like to keep all the factory light switches, and I would prefer not to have to add another switch under the dash or something. Is there anyway to rewire something, or would I have to make a new switch with a relay, goin only to the foglights?

... anyone with ideas please let me know, Im lost on this one.

Well i have a 1995 Diamante, it has the DOHC 6g72 3.0L. Ive swapped out the stock 4spd at with a 5spd mt. And now im trying to make little mods here and there to try and improve my power output. On the intake side i've already placed the stock airbox with a open element K&N cone filter then i created a insulated housing for the filter, and connected that to a ram air intake. I tried removing the muffler, and running the car the improvement in the top end power was nice, but i wasn't too happy with the amount of low end loss, as I use this car as my daily driver.
Ive designed and am in the middle of creating a automated butterfly valve to control the exhaust. My plan is to have this butterfly valve connected to the exhaust on one side, and to nothing on the other, they say that a picture is worth a thousand words, so i've attached a simple line drawing to illustrate the setup [attachmentid=4188]. Im almost done creating the controller for this, its as simple as a rev counter which turns on (opens) the butterfly valve when the car is above 4000rpm. This way i can enjoy the benefits of the back pressure from the muffler below 4000rpm, and the benefits of reduced back pressure of having a straight through exhaust. Unfortunately im not yet sure how to control the extent of the opening of the valve, for this version it is now a all or nothing system. Im still trying to design one which will progressively open as the rpm climbs.


But i have 3 questions before I decide if i should finish and install this:

1) Will the ecu be able to cope with switching?
Im not sure if the sudden loss of back pressure would affect any of the inputs that the ecu uses, but since there is an increase in power, im guessing almost all the values would change. At first i thought if i reset the ecu after installation that the ecu will just learn that after 4000 there is a change in the engine's dynamics.

2) What do you think would be the optimum rpm to switch from the muffler to the straight through?

3) And finally where do you think the optimum placement would be?
Since the goal is to reduce the back pressure as much as possible, wouldn't be best to keep it as close to the catalytic converter as possible?

Hi,

I need a wiring schematic for a 4 cylinder 2.6 ignition system. I am attempting to modify the astron coil, transistor, resister and etc to use in a different vehicle. Can any one help me?

Hi

My sons Magna is having severe problems idling. I've found that it runs fine when the air hose is removed from the air filter. I bought a new air filter and fitted it however I have the same problem. No air hose/air filter - runs fine. Air hose/air filter attached - won't run.

I've noticed the air filter has some electrical connections attached and there's some kind of electrical unit attached to the lid of the air filter. What is this and what does it do? Also does anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong?

Thanks.

Hi forum,

My 1999 TH Magna 3.5 has a bad oil leak (It's done 220000km) in the cam belt area, I removed the top cover and there is heaps of oil on the belt and cover insides.

Obviously I need to do a belt and I assume the cam seals but what else should I be looking at. (I have the workshop manual and am reasonably good with mechanics - have to be when your second car is a Jaguar)

P.S. anyone know a cheap source for the parts (Repco have a kit at $330 which seems a tad steep)

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Magna 94 stationwagon automatic trans

when i turn on my O\D and hit the speed about 80 km\h and it trying to gear upp it feels like it hits neutral or misses a gear and it will not accelerate until it gear down again.
I dont have any problems when i turn off O\D.
How much will it cost to fix?
What is the problem?
My guess is that its som gear wheel broken or something like that. Please tell me that I'm wrong.


\\Alex

I have a 2003 Magna and want to replace original radio. How do I remove and install new one?

Thanks,
RJB

The car has some faults,the petrol cap won't open, the seat adjuster [ to manouvre seat front and back won't work,the Cd player won't play cds [prob. totally unrelated] could all these faults be an electrial fault? There is a loud clicking most prob behind the aircon unit, air con works but heating doesn't. Thank you

I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante and it was over heating the other day. Well, I pulled over at the gas station and opened the radiator and it was empty. I added water and antifreeze, and the car was working fine. The next morning when I got up to go to work the Neutral light was flashing while the car was in drive and the car pulls when trying to drive it. The Neutral light also flashes if the car is turned off and put in D, 3, 2, L. Does anyone know what is going on? Please help.. Thanks!!

Hey

I came across a website but im not sure the model of the car. Anyone have any ideas ?

http://www.nswpolicecars.fotopic.net/p41442332.html

http://www.nswpolicecars.fotopic.net/p41442337.html

http://www.nswpolicecars.fotopic.net/p41442339.html

Thanks guys

I just bought new headlight bulbs to put in my 2004 Diamante but i cant figure out how to remove the headlight assembly to change them? can anyone help?

Hi. I have an intermittent power loss problem with my V6. Sometimes it goes like a shower of @$#%, but sometimes when i stop, and start it again, it runs like a dog... idles a bit rougher than normal too... REALLY gotta plant it to get it to do anything... Then, after 1 or 2 stops and starts, it comes good again. Any help on this would be really really appreciated. Thanks

My wife's car, a TM Magna, is misbehaving a little - again.

It's recently started, well, I guess the best way to describe it is almost like its missing. It starts and idles okay, and seems to cruise okay, and revving in neutral seems okay, but trying to accelerate results in it feeling and sounding almost like its missing (or at least not igniting properly) and has a noticeable loss of power. It's been geting a little worse too - this used to disappear after running for a few minutes, but now it doesn't.

I was thinking that some of the ignition components might be getting a little worn, but haven't checked that out yet... a worn carbon brush in the distributor cap, perhaps, or excessive erosion of the metal end on the rotor or the lugs protruding inside the cap. Maybe leads. Not sure, haven't had any ignition problems in years... I wouldn't have thought that this would be the ignition module - that kind of thing's usually go/no-go isn't it? I seem to recall having issues with another car where revving with no load was okay with iffy HV components but got "interesting" when actually trying to go anywhere, so I'll take a look at that this evening I guess.


Before it got worse, this manifested itself as the same kind of symptoms - but they disappeared after a little while. That at first had me thinking there was some kind of sticking/fouling in the carburettor that affected fuel delivery - to my untrained ear, I guess missing and starving might sound similar under some circumstances. I don't know, that still might be it.

I've also noticed that the tachometer needle jumps about a lot more than it used to - where's that get its signal, the ignition module? That's got me a little worried.

I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty - I replaced some O-rings and fixed a nasty transmission fluid leak from what I assume is part of the overdrive mechanism (juts out the drivers side end of things), have replaced the timing belt in my Camira at least twice, replaced the inlet manifold when the old one corroded out... but some of my diagnostic skills probably aren't up to snuff, so any thoughts on the kind of things that can cause these kind of symptoms would be gratefully accepted. Bear in mind that I have half a toolbox and the "Gregorys" for that model... with all the good AND bad they both imply :-)


Cheers,


Mark.

Hi everyone, the front passenger side electric window has jammed on my 2000 Magna solara. I've removed the inside door skin and can see that the cable is jammed around the plastic drive cog on the electric motor. If I cut the cable I don't know how to reroute a new one. The drive cog on the electric is "buggered" too. Does anyone know if I can just purchase a new cable and a new drive cog ? Does anyone have a diagram of how to reinstall the cable?
If I buy a new motor assembly do I get the new cable too?
Any advice and help would be most appreciated.
cheers
Peter

Does anyone know where I can order a blower motor resistor online for a 98 Diamante ES?

Thanks!

Hello All,

It is possible to install extra seats for wagon model - Magna Altera LS Wagon 3.5ltr?

Regards,
Mohamad

What milage does the cam belt need changing on a 2003 Diamante?.I have been given conflicting values.It has 75,00Km on the clock now.Thanks.

Hi everyone,

Today my car (1991 Mitsubishi Magna wagon TP Exec) started making this horrible noise whenever I turn the steering wheel. It's hard to describe, it's like a scratching or rasping noise like there is something rubbing behind the steering wheel when I turn it. I've checked the power steering fluid and it seems to have plenty in there (almost to the MAX line).

Anyone have any idea what might be causing this? Or how much it would cost to repair?

If i let it go (I don't have a lot of money right now) is it likely to destroy the car or cost a lot more in the long run?

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks very much in advance!

David

i drive a 1995 ts magna,, recently it started to rattle,, it sounded like the hy. lifters had given up,, i tried thinner oil,, etc,, al the rest of it,, (im a 2nd year diesel mech) but its still got me f***ed as to what it could be,, i was convinced it was the lifters so i went out and got a new set,,

replaced em,, turned the key... and no difference still rattling like hell (took it for a spin. started it in the morning,, whole time,, rattle rattle rattle),,

Pee me off much? yeah.

any ideas anyone???!,, cos im stuck for ideas.

help would be much appreiciated

As soon as I rev the engine it is gone. But there it is again next time I turn on the car.

hey guys,

i was putting in a new headdeck speakers etc in my car yesterday, and i dont really know much about it but i can still do it, but there were some extra wires in the original headdeck that i;d never seen before or know what they are for. and now my taillights dont work?? please help asap

F/S: Mitsubishi Diamante hood. Hood has some scratches and scuff. >>AS-IS<< Have pictures available. Asking $60.00 plus shipping. Any Questions feel free an E-mail me. I have more mitsubishi parts for sale.

dont have any lights on the instrument cluster . all the fuses are good but still no **** lights???

Hey what's up guys. I'm a new user and I have a question. Ever since I have had my eclipse, I have always given it synthetic oil changes. but recently, even after I change the oil, there is a "cliking" sound coming from the cap in front of my engine. One mechanic said it was my lifters. What do you think?

I have an oil leak from the driver side of the front of the engine, near area at the back of the front camshaft. I thought it may be a leaking oil filler cap, but I didn't see oil on the rocker cover and changing the oil filler gasket didn't help. I also changed the rocker cover gasket, but that didn't help.

It appears that the leak may be coming from the thrust case on the back end of the front camshaft (the opposite end from the timing belt pulley end). According to the manual, it appears that the thrust case comes out by removing two bolts and pulling the thrust case out of the head. The oil seal is an o-ring that goes between the thrust case and the camshaft.

I have never removed a thrust case and need to know if it can be removed, the o-ring replaced, and the thrust case replaced all while the rocker cover remains in place. What I don't know is if the camshaft is held in place by the thrust case and if the camshaft could move out of place if I remove the thrust case? Or, is the camshaft secured some other way and removing the thrust case poses no risk of the camshaft dislodging from its mounts?

Has anybody had experience with this?

hi friends, my battery shows that need to add water. how to add?

this is my battery, if you need have a look
[attachmentid=3737]


THANK YOU!

Hi
I think I have a fuel leak in my 2003 magna advance. The trip computer has a fuel consumption readout on it that used to be very accurate when I went to fill up. Ie it would usually be within about +/- 1L with whatever the bowser said. Recently that has blown out to upwards of 15 / 20 L. [ ie. I go to fill up and the consumption meter says 35 L used, whilst the guage is showing < 1/4 tank and the fuel light is on and the bowser puts 50+L in there]

The other readings eg. L/100Km are still what they used to be - roughly 15L/100K . ie so I think the meter is correctly measuring what's going into the engine. Unfortunately theres a bunch of other fuel going somewhere else - more like 24L/100K .

There's also a bit of a petrol stink around the car that some times has been pretty full on.

I had a couple of other repairs done to it last week and got the mechanic to take a look, he reset the computer in case that was the problem - however it still persists. I cant keep taking it to the same guy - its too far out from work - so looking for suggestions if theres some other way I can diagnose / even repair this myself or at least have a bit more of a clue when I go to the next mechanic.

Any advice welcome
Cheers

My girlfriend's car started to stall after we replaced the battery, which died today. It's an automatic transmission. We also have problems with the transmission when shifting into higher gear: rpms jump into the 4000s at around 60mph. We've never had the stalling problem, and now the transmission feels very jerky.

Thanks for your time

Should'nt be moaning on my inaugral outing as a mitsi forum member, but hey i have a problem.
Car is a Diamante Auto 98 and it has been to the garage, computer checks out ok, sensors have been replaced etc and car still stalls when revs drop ie when stationary. Any ideas welcome
Thanks Michael

I have a 93 V3000 that has done nearly 250,000kms and smokes so bad that 2x smoke treatment and 20w 50 does not work well.

Recondition will cost $1000 plus (don't know for sure but thats what I undersand) and V3000 are heard to come by pluse I like a challange and the fact she will be a little different and have growen attached to it. Here in NZ they will be handing out fines for smokey vehicles soon, and this is a prime example.

So what engines fit into the bay of a 93 V3000 with out too much trouble (I like challanges but not the impossable)?

Help!!
Ever since I had my battery replaced, I have had problems with the car. It cuts out on an adhoc basis. I hear a clicking sound left hand side near the glove box. The fuel pump relay (?) has been replaced, corrosion has been cleaned out ofrom one of the leads and just when I thought everything was ok - the car cut out again today.
What is the ECU and where is the best place to go - mechanic or auto electrician??

Hi guys...Im having an issue(the last in MANY)with my 1989 wagon (mitsubishi magna). It is idling wrong!!!When Im accelerating it shakes a little(sometimes a lot) then is fine, but any time I slow down, or stop at the lights, it shakes, and cuts out..Ive been told its the fuel pump, or the idling screw thing needs adjusting,and the motors on the way out...all by different mechanics..does this sound familiar to anyone??and any suggestions how to fix it(apart from setting it on fire, and pushing it over a cliff...Ive thought of it, but I love my car(named donkey for apparent reasons)..would really appreciate any help..cheers