I will post pics of my installation in the near future. Hopefully this will clear up any misunderstandings with audio installation, or equipment.



Car Audio FAQ

Hello all, and welcome to my car audio FAQ. I will try to answer every question that I can in a semi-brief fashion. I have been doing car audio installations for about 5 years now, and know a great deal about the profession.

I. How to plan your audio system
II. What brands to go with
III. How do you want it to look
IV. Installation Techniques
V. Disclaimer

Section I, planning your audio system

To plan your audio system, you must first think about what you want out of it. Do you want to keep it simple with just an aftermarket head unit, maybe you want to add new speakers as well. Then there is the possibility of getting a little more advanced and adding amplifiers and subwoofers, tweeters and component speakers, and for those of you with amps over 500 watts, a capacitor.

The second thing that you have to do is set priorities on the items that you want to get. An aftermarket head unit is the best thing to start with. It will make your stock speakers sound clearer, as well as give them a bit more power. Next would be new speakers, followed by an amp and subs. After doing all of this, you may want to think about amping up all of your speakers.

Third and finally you need to find out how much you are willing to spend on this audio system. A mediocre system without subs will cost about 300-500 USD. A good quality system with subs will cost anywhere from 600-1000 USD. High quality will cost you about 1100-2000 USD. Finally an excellent sound system with component speakers, amps, subs, and a high quality head unit can cost up to about 5000 USD. I have never done a competition system for anyone, but I have heard they can get up to about 10000 USD.

To show you the expenses you might be getting into here is what I have done to mine:
Head Unit: Blaupunkt Key West MP36
Speakers: Blaupunkt Velocity Series, full range speakers all the way around
Soon To Be Added Speaker Amp: Eclipse EA4000
Subs: 2 Infinty Reference 1040w
Sub Amp: Audiobahn 8002v
Capacitor: Rockford Fosgate 1 farad capacitor

My entire system cost a bit over 2000 dollars with my box, wiring kits, materials, and the likes.

Section II, What brands to go with, or to stay away from

Here are the two best websites for car audio:
www.crutchfield.com
www.sonicelectronix.com

Some brands are good for certain aspects of audio, while being poor at others. An example of this is Eclipse. Their amps and head units are some of the best, but their speakers and subs aren’t that great. Hopefully this list will help you decide. Keep in mind, con doesn’t mean that the item sucks, it just means that it isn’t as good as some others.

There are certain brands that you should stay away from no matter what. These brands are: Sony, Emerson, Jensen, Boss, Bose, Visonik, Directed Audio, Soundstream, Bazooka, Fusion, Lightning Audio, Phoenix Digital(not to be confused with Phoenix Gold), Precision Audio, Treo, Profile, and Extreme Audio. All of these companies suck for car audio, trust me. The bolded items are those that are spoken highly of, but are of poor quality, both in sound and craftsmanship.

There are brands that have no flaws in my opinion: Clarion, Focal, Infinity, JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, Memphis, Phoenix Gold, Kenwood eXcelon, Pioneer Premier, Pyramid, Rockford Fosgate Power Series. The items in bold are brands that I push heavily.

My opinion on everyone’s favorite, Kicker. Kicker makes all of their products seem larger than life, and better than anything else on the market. Here is my “beef” with them. First and foremost, Kicker makes a square subwoofer, and they claim that it produces better sound. The problem with this claim is that sound waves are round, not square. Second, they claim everything to be “comp.”, which is another lie, because even their top of the line stuff cannot be seen at competitions actually winning any prizes. And lastly, they just flat out aren’t worth the cost. Infinity costs about the same and it is at least twice as good.


Alpine Pros: Speakers, Subs, Head Units
Alpine Cons: Amps

Audiobahn Pros: Amplifiers, Head Units
Audiobahn Cons: Speakers, Subs

Blaupunkt Pros: Speakers, Subs, Head units
Blaupunkt Cons: Amps

Dual Pros: Amps
Dual Cons: Head units, speakers, subs

Eclipse Pros: Amps, head units
Eclipse Cons: speakers, subs

JBL Pros: Speakers, Subs
JBL Cons: Amps, Head units

Kenwood Pros: Amps, Subs, Speakers
Kenwood Cons: Head Units

MTX Pros: Subs, Amps
MTX Cons: speakers

Pioneer Pros: Head Units, speakers, subs
Pioneer Cons: Amplifiers

Rockford Fosgate Punch Series Pros: Amps
Rockford Fosgate Punch Series Cons: Speakers, Subs, Head Units

Section III, How do you want it to look

Do you want your audio system to function properly, or do you want it to function properly and look good, or do you want it do be like a professional job? Are you looking to make things permanent, or do you change your mind frequently? These kinds of questions are what I ask the people who come to me to install stuff for them. A decent job that is done right, but not very professionally takes me about an hour. A professional job can take me anywhere from eight to 12 hours for me to do. I charge by the job, not by the hour, so time is not a factor for me. However, it may be for you. If you don’t feel like spending all day, or all weekend doing this, then you can do it the quick and easy way.

The quick and easy way: wire crimp connectors, wire caps, duct tape, the sorts of everyday items. The wiring looks like a mess, you can visibly see it in some places, and all and all it just looks like crap.

The semi-professional job: Electricians tape. The wires are hidden, but the locations for them aren’t good , I.E behind the pedals of your car. The items are screwed into place, no dynamat is used, and the connections could still be better.

Professional Job: Heat Shrink, solder, caulk, the works. Dynamat is used in every single panel, everything is seated perfectly or fabricated to do so. You not only screw the speakers in, but also you caulk them. Wires are first soldered, and then heat shrink is applied to make them look perfect. No wires are showing anywhere except right near the component hook ups, aftermarket grills are used, and no shortcuts are taken… well kinda.

Section IV, installation techniques

Some people make the mistake of wiring things wrong because the don’t have a harness, others have problems keeping their speakers from rattling, and still others drill thousands of holes into their firewalls trying to get that amp wire through. Well this is the section for those people. With my experience in car audio, I will help you to make your installation look as professional as possible. I do not have the time or resources to do vehicle specific installations for you, but if you PM I will try my best to help. This is meant for a really basic, professional looking installation. It will cover a CD Player, non component Speakers, Subs, a single Amp, and a Capacitor.

For Head Unit installations: My Recommendation, Pioneer Premier

First thing is first, when you buy your head unit from wherever, make sure you get a wiring harness specific to your vehicle and a mounting kit specific to your vehicle. Now then, go to your local hardware store and pick up a heat gun(a blow dryer on steroids). I believe that Sears and Home Depot have relatively cheap heat guns. While you are there pick up a material called heat shrink, you will need 20-16 gauge. You also will need a soldering gun and some solder, it is easiest to solder with a silver exterior, acid core.

Take your new head unit out of the box, and inspect it for any shipping damages. If you have a removable faceplate, I suggest you utilize it until you have the installation complete. The wiring harness you purchased should have a sheet with it, or say on the packaging what wires do what function. Your new head unit will have a plug of it’s own that goes into the back of it. Your new head unit should have marked on it somewhere(if not look in the owners/installation manual), what the wires for it’s plug mean as well. Write down the connections on a piece of paper, as to not forget, solder is nearly permanent. KEEP THE CHART YOU MAKE UNTIL YOU ARE DONE WITH EVERYTHING

Go home and get used to soldering on some extra speaker wire that you may have laying around. Try to make it very neat, go very slowly, but then again you must work quickly, once it cools down, there is no turning back.

Now then, once you have done that, you can start the actual connection process. Get all of the wires ready by stripping about half an inch to an inch off of their covers Place of piece heat shrink over the open end of the wire(on either harness), and let it slide all the way down to the bottom of the harness. Twist the two wires together, try to keep them in a semi-straight line, or the heat shrink wont fit properly when it comes time to actually shrink it. After you have twisted the wires together, very neatly solder them. The connection is very strong with solder, so you shouldn’t ever have to worry about it breaking. After you have soldered your wire, slide the heat shrink tube over the solder connection and use your heat gun to shrink it up. If you did it correctly, it will look very professional. Stand back and admire your work, and then realize that you have about 10-15 more of these things to do.

After you have finished linking the head unit to the wiring harness that you bought, you can plug it in to your car, attach the antenna, RCA cables and remote wires for amps, and last but not least, your ground wire. You have now finished your head unit… hooray. Now on to speakers.

Speaker Installation: My Recommendation, Blaupunkt Velocity for the speakers, Rockford for the wiring

Speakers are the easiest thing to do, but can be extremely frustrating at times. On my 1991 and 2002 Eclipses you have to pull of damn near every interior panel to get to the speakers. Every vehicle has a different way to get to the speakers, and as stated before, I won’t spend the time doing vehicle specific installations on this site. To make your speakers look like they have been professionally done, you must be very careful with your interior panels. Mitsubishi makes them thin, and they crack very, VERY, easily.

You will need to go to the hardware store and pick up some silicone caulk, then to the car audio store and pick up some speaker wire, preferably 16 or 18 gauge wire. You will also need your soldering gun/solder, and your heat gun/heat shrink.

The first thing you will need to do is look at your chart that you made for your head unit and figure out which wire is the plus and which wire is the minus on each speaker. Then, as I said earlier, very carefully undo all the panels needed to get to your speakers. Once your stock speaker is exposed, take it out, cut the old wires as close to the plug as possible, and strip the casings off of them.

To get your new speaker ready, you first will need cut about a six inch new section, then strip some of your new speaker wire, half an inch to and inch on both ends should be fine. Now, solder the connection to the wires running from your head unit, to the new speaker wires. Slide a piece of heat shrink over the open end and use your heat gun to tighten it up. Solder your wire to your speaker, and then caulk the edge of the speaker, making sure that you don’t cover up the screw holes. Push it down in it’s original opening, and finally, screw the speaker back into place. The caulk will make an airtight seal that will keep the speaker from popping, which will make it sound better. It also will provide a little more sound dampening, and will help to keep the speaker in place if a screw comes loose.

Subwoofer Installation: My Recommendation, JL Audio W7 subs, Rockford wiring

Subwoofers are easy as pie. Since they aren’t already in your car, you cant remove them, and you have one less thing to do. You need to decide what size subs to get. The size of the subs is based on what type of music you most often listen to. 8’s are good for rock, extremely poor for rap. 10’s excel with rock, and poor with rap. 12’s are decent for rock, and really good for rap. 15’s are horrible for rock, and excellent for rap.

You will need to go get some 12 or 14 gauge speaker wire for this job. You also will need the solder, heat shrink, and caulk again. You will need a box. Here is a list of box types and what they are good for:

(10’s and smaller) Sealed- best for tight, responsive bass. Good for punk rock, emotional, classical, classic rock, and old metal

(10’s and 12’s) Ported/vented- best for continuous bass, a little louder but poorer sound quality. Good for new metal, industrial, death metal, rock, techno, and the likes.

(10’s and larger) Band pass- best for continuous obnoxiously loud bass, extremely poor sound quality. Good for rap, that’s about it.

To install your new subs into their box you must do the same thing you did for speakers. You need to solder, heat shrink, and caulk them into place. Okay, you are done with that now.

Amplifier Installation: My Recommendation, Audiobahn Amp, Rockford wiring (like $150, ouch)

Your amplifier should supply no less than 50% of the max RMS of your subs. It should supply no more than 90% of the max RMS of your subs. Amps need to be placed in a Wiring kits need to be bought according to size of the amp:

<500 watts- 8 gauge
500 to 1000 watts- 4 gauge
1000 to 1500 watts- 2 gauge
1500 or more- 0 gauge

You will need wiring terminals for whichever size wire you have. Your local audio store should have them. The best materials are gold plated or platinum plated. You will need a pair of pliers to crimp the wire terminals to the wires, or if you are a weaker individual, you might need a hammer to do the same.

Okay, whichever side of your car the battery is on is the side that you will need to run your amp power wire and remote turn on wire. The opposite side is for your RCA cables. Do the RCA first, it is the easiest part. Just run it under your door-sill panels, next to the carpeting. It should tuck away quite nicely between the plastic and the carpet. Run it like this all the way back to the amplifier.

Now for your remote wire, run it the same way, but on the opposite side of the car, if it is going to run on the drivers side, make sure that you tuck it beneath the carpeting behind your pedals, if not, you may break the wire, or cause an accident.

Now for the power wire, which is the one that everybody always does wrong. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, DRILL THROUGH YOUR FIREWALL. Okay, now then, to the correct way. The side of your car that the battery is on, the same side you ran your remote wire for, is the side you will run for your power cable. Take off the plastic inside of your wheel-well, and you should see a bunch of holes going into your engine bay. Those are the holes that you will run the wire through. Take the non-fuse side of your wire, and run it down from the engine to the wheel well, via the holes that are there. Once you have ran the wire through the hole, you can proceed to pull it through, make sure you leave enough slack for your fuse side to connect to the battery. Open the door on the appropriate side of the car, you should see a black rubber hose running from your doorframe, into the car. Get a screwdriver and poke a hole from the inside of the vehicle to the outside. Attach the power wire to the screwdriver with some electrical tape and pull it into the cabin. Now, hide the wire underneath the paneling in the same fashion that you did the remote wire.

Finally, you can connect it all up. Plug in all the RCA, remote, and speaker wires in the back first, then the ground, and finally the power wire. After the back wires are in, you can plug the power wire into the battery.

And you are finished.

Section V Disclaimer

I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle. Although I have been doing this for years, it is possible that I missed something. If you have any questions, or run into any problems with your car audio installation, feel free to pm me.
This guide is the sole property of me, C. Nicholas Ambs (aka,bobthecow). Any use or posting of this guide without my express written consent is prohibited. Good luck, and happy installing.

Anyone can get their radio code for free direct from Mitsubishi by telephone. You will need the following information:

Last 8 characters of your VIN #
Radio Serial Number

Call Mitsubishi:

1-888-mitsu20 (1-888-648-7820), option 1, option 4
Current hours: 6am to 5pm Pacific, M-F.

Tell representative that you replaced your battery and now need your radio code. If you are not currently a registered owner, they will ask for your info for registration.

How to find your Radio Serial Number

It is located on a label on the radio. You will need to remove the dashboard panel covering the radio. For my Mitsubish Eclipse, it was easy (might be same for other vehicles):

Remove the two screws located underneath the radio. Just go to the edges of the radio and follow it down going underneath the dash. You will need a small philips head as there isn't much clearance especially on the left side. You can then pull away the plastic exposing the radio itself. The plastic panel just tugs straight out from the dash. Pull out the bottom first. Then tug the top straight out, to pull it away from the snaps holding it on.

The Mistubishi representative asked me for the Radio Serial Number only, not the Radio Manufacturer's Number (MR...). The serial number was visible for me without removing the radio itself (unscrewing it from the dash). However, you might want to leave the panel off until you get your radio code in case they ask you for the MR # and you have to unscrew the radio from the dash to see that part of the label.

How to enter your Radio Code
(Courtesy of mittech)

Use the first four radio station preset buttons to enter the code.

1: Push radio preset#1 until first digit of your code appears.
2: Push radio preset#2 until second digit of your code appears.
3: Push radio preset#3 until third digit of your code appears.
4: Push radio preset#4 until fourth digit of your code appears.
5: Push either tape or cd button.

What to do if your radio says OFF instead of CODE
(Courtesy of mittech)

If your radio says OFF it means you entered the wrong radio code three times. To get it to say CODE again do the following.

1:Turn the key to on or accessory.
2:Push the power button so that the radio display says OFF.
3:Let the car sit for 1 hour.
4:The radio display will go blank.
5:Turn the radio on and it will say CODE again.

If your radio says "Off" it means you entered the wrong audio code three times. To get it to say code again do the following.

1:Turn the key to on or accessory.
2:Push the power button so that the radio display says off.
3:Let the car sit for 1 hour.
4:The radio display will go blank.
5:Turn the radio on and it will say code again.

Alright I am sure someone here can help me out. I am trying to install my aftermarket stereo into my 2001 Eclipse with the Infinity system. I got the wiring harness from crutchfield and the install kit. But when I connect all the wires, the cp player turns on and there is no sound from any of the speakers.

I noticed that there is a whole lot of connections on the stock cd player and only an fm antenna and the dinky little harness for the aftermarket one. So my question is, do I need to get more adapters, or what?

Hello,
I thought I might be able to help out here. If you are in need of a Radio Code please feel free to reply to me and I can help you out with the issue. All i need from you is the actual Serial Number from the radio itself and the part number, this way im able to help you get this code.

http://muskegon.craigslist.org/ele/1451646193.html

Please Email me with questions

Hi Guys,

I have the Factory Workshop Manuals for the 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer.

Volume 3 has full Audio Wiring Diagrams, Systems Operations, Fault Finding and Specific Testing Procedures.

Each speaker has it's own diagnostic test which can be run from the Head Unit Display.

If you own a 2008 Lancer, I'm happy to email the PDF File (20.6 Mb) which will cover all Chasiss Electrical.

Warren
Melbourne, Australia

Yesterday I was at BestBuy and found a Griffin Technology - iTrip Auto FM transmitter for iPod & iPhone. After going through some reviews and research, this FM Transmitter certainly seems like a great device to me. Before any purchase decision I want to know your advice from your personal experience.

Thanks..

Hello all,

I have a lame problem with my car, the upper beams are not working, but the lower beams + position lamps are working without problems.
Until now i thought "who cares" but the other day i almost crashed with a moose while driving at night so LOL, i thought it'd be the time to fix that damn thing.

Issues: Upper beams not working (blue indicator on dashboard doesnt turn on) + button to wash headlights not working either

Tried as far as now: Checked fuses, Relays, Changed the switch (the one on the steering wheel - damn mitsubishi got me to change it even if that was not the problem!) and of course, even checked the bulbs themselve.

I even went to the car dealer and after they got me to change the switch they have no idea where the problem is, and im not willing to pay them for wasting a lot of time on thinking about the solution for a problem they dont even know how to fix :'(

Please help!

Can someone help me get the radio code?
I called the local dealer and they wanted 46 bucks.

Can any one give me any instruction and what tools I need to remove strock stereo from 2006 lancer es

Hi all.
I got my eclipse spyder 2008 imported to israel, but the radio zone does not match here.
can someone tell me how can i change the radio tuner zone to the europian method?
thanks,
boaz

My radio model# MR252914, Serial# 66218043. My ole lady sure would appreciate it.

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G'day,

My pajero was stolen several years ago.

Nowdays, I use a GPS tracking device along with my car alram.

What would you suggest using, to further protect my car.

Obviously, I have car insurace. I was thinking about Ravelco(www.ravelco.com)? heard good things about them.

What about a leech device or a starter disabler?

Hi All

I Have just bought a 2008 pajero with the MMCS in it i was wondering if anyone knows how to bypass the speed sensor or has a wiring diagram for the fosgate mmcs in it .

Hi Guys,

My name is Dhaval Patel, I am brand new user of this forum

I drive Mitsubishi Lancer 2003

Actually I am stuck with my Audio system in my car

I took of old one, ordered new Kanwood system with AUX, and open all wires, cut the wires from old socket and everything. Now when i was trying to match the wire colors with wiring diagram which i got from internet, It is not matching a single wire.

Kanwood says they can't take my system back because it is limited timing of 15 days trial

I spend 89 bucks for new system and i don't know how to install this.

Not only that, since when i cut down all wires from old socket, My Headlights, Auto lock, inside light, Emergency parking light everything is not working when the ignition is OFF, If i make it on everything works.

Please Please Please......... help me regarding this matter if somebody knows about car audio installation.

I Have a 1991 Montero US 4 door and recently i started having problems with my radio, power locks, clock, dome lights and door ajar light not working, they work sometimes, but then they go off, it's very anoying and kind of scary because I've put about $2400 in this montero and It will suck if it catches fire!

so if anybody knows of anything that might cause this kind of problem i'd really apreciate it!

Thanks!!

Hi all
I am a total newbie, and totally ignorant please help!
My husband and I (it's his car really but he doesn't use the computer) purchased a Mitsubushi Space Wagon 7 seater Friday from a local dealer for £995 (reputable main road one not a back street one).
When we went to view it he mentioned it had an immobiliser (we have never had a car with an immobiliser before as our previous cars have all one very old ones) and had no idea how they worked. He said to get the car to start we needed to put the ignition key in turn it on (nothing happens) and then take it out and then lock and unlock the car doors..and re insert the ignition key..he did this on 3 separate occasions and and the car started ok so we had no reason to doubt that this was the way to deactivate the immobiliser (remember we have never had an immobiliser before!)
We paid for the car and took it home yesterday. when we parked up at the supermarket and returned to start the car we did as he had said and nothing happened. We had to play around locking and unlocking the doors a number of times to get the car to start.
This then happened a few times each time we stopped and needed to restart the car. Very frustrating...
I rang the dealer when I got home and he said that there was not a problems as "it had worked everytime he had done it"
I then researched on the internet and found that the car should start just with the key which sends a signal to the car and the locking and unlocking is not a part of the procedure..there is obviously a fault with the key or car!
I rang our local Mitsubushi dealer and the technician was not there and I was told to ring back Monday. However the person who answered said that it should be possible to obtain a new key although it would be quite expensive and we would have to book the car in.
We have used it again today and have managed to get it to start evenutally each time doing the unlocking and unlocking thing but there seems to be no consistancy how many times we have to do it!
Has anyone any thoughts or comments on this please?
Thanks Lindy xx

I recenty bought the metra harness to put an aftermarket deck with the stock infinity system. After a couple "Y" connectors and many screws later, i got it working. it sounded fine for a couple of days....then i think it all shorted out (bad ground probably) and now i hear nothing. i have been stumbling around on the net trying to find some info...but so far i have found NOTHING!!!

i need to know

1. What is the model # for the stock infinity amp mounted under the rear deck. i removed it and there are absolutely no markings of any kind

2. If it is worth buying a new one and installing it, since it did sound decent before the short.

3. If ANY one knows the speaker wire colors (minus the rear speakers since the wires are exposed)

any info on this would be a big help.

[attachment=11240:WIRING.jpg]

Hey,
I just ordered the DNX-5120, and was wondering how to bypass the video safety feature, so that videos can play while driving.
Yes, I do know this model is discontinued, but I got it for less than $400 so it is worth it.
I'm asking because I have a zune, so the only way for the song titles to appear on the screen is to use the zune a/v pack. Microsoft Zunes are not compatible with anything. Haha, and no, I'm not going to be trying to watch DVDs while driving.

I read that you have to ground the parking brake wire or splice it with the radio wire which is already grounded. What does this mean and how do I do it? I would like to install it myself to save the extra money, but if it is really difficult, then I will just have to pay to have it done.

And just wondering, does anybody have this headunit? Do you like it?
Thanks,
Joe

I have checked all fuse and they seem ok. All together the things that have stopped working, the door's no longer lock when you start driving but when you turn the ignition off it sound's like it's unlocking, when you have got the headlights on and open the driver's door the buzzer don't go off to tell you your lights are on, when you start the car the heaters come on the same setting every time, the light on the mirror stopped working, the clock on the dash don't work no more. I have now wired the stereo straight from the battery so at least that is working.....

Can anyone help me find the tv tuner for my Mitsubishi 8g vrg Galant my car has the navigation system but the tv tuner is not with it, the jacks are there, i tried one of my friends tuner from his 8g and it worked so i'm looking for the tuner for my 8g.

Hey!

i wanted to add an oil pressure gauge to my gauge pod, i know my car comes with a dummy light on the dash and was wondering if it was even possible to wire an oil pressue gauge instead of having my light come on at lower pressure. i have a 99 galant ES 4 CYL Thank you!

I have a 9138 (RX-1E94WT-WS no display) on a Mitsubishi Carisma (2001)

The picture is here:
http://codedradio.info/pics/MITSUBISHI/9181.jpg

It is CD Changer aware system and it has a CD Changer jack.
The picture is here :
http://www.erta.ru/base/mitsubishi/9181.shtml

I dont know Russian but it says this is a CD Changer thing according to babylon

So, how to check if an aftermarket CD Changer fits to my radio/casette player ? Is this a Pioneer system actually or an Alpine ?
The page says ALPINE Chm-S630 or Cha-S634 fits , is it true ? Can I order without checking ?

Thanks

I just bought white glow gauges for my 99 Eclipse and i was wondering what all i needed to know, and how i would go about installing them. Thanks.

Hey, my radio was working fine, but after i went and took my underglow off, i think i might have pulled a wire or something? I took the radio out to see if it was getting power and the "power" wire does, but the "ignition" does not. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a fuse but idk. I looked for a pulled wire in my harness but i didnt see anything.

Thanks.

Can you please help me as the battery terminal was removed too long for battery replacement.
PART #-1040:10
SERIAL# - 15154189F

Just installed two subs, an amp, and a new car stereo the other day everything seems to be hooked up correctly but i cant hear my subwoofer. i have two 10 inch subs. when the balance is set at 0 so all my speakers are playing and both subs are hitting the subs are very week and have no power behind them. but when i turn the balance all the way to the right or left so only one side of my speakers are playing and one sub is playing, my sub hits hard with amazing bass. But when i set it at 0 and try to power both subs. i cant hear it again.
What do you think the problem is?

Additional Details:
2 channel amp wired subs for 2 ohms each
2 quantum dvc 10in subs
pyle driver 1600watt 2 channel amp (yes i know its a shitty brand) but should still work)
alpine ida-x200 stereo
do you think its not getting enough juice? do i need a capacitor?

Hi I have 2008 Triton 4x4, had to replace the battery and after doing so pinched the code in wrongly three times and hey presto now it doesnt work at all.
I have checked the fuse box all looks ok, have tried leaving key on acc for hour and longer, no joy. Have disconnected battery and re connected in an effort to get it to reboot all to no avail.
It just wont light up, I have the code and now know how to input it correctly but why cant I get it to power up.
Need help desperate any suggestions

Hi guys,

I'm about to replace the stock head unit with a Kenwood Mp243 on my '95 Express. I just need a little help with the wiring in the van if anyone would care to assist.

I have in one terminal block:

r/h speaker:
white/blue and black/blue

l/h speaker: white/red and black/red

unsure which is + or -

In another terminal block which I have not got a clue:

white/blue
black/blue
white/red
yellow/red
yellow/blue
red/black
blue/white
green/white

Any advice would be greatly received.

Are these subwoofer wires in my 08 lancer ES?

Just wondering if anyone had used any of these in their cars... was thinking about getting them and wanted to know some feedback.
First: Alpine SPR-13C See here
Alpine SPS - 600 vs 600c See Here

Whats the sound quality? How good is the bass in these? I do not have a sub nor do I plan on getting one, but I do want enough kick. I listen to a lot of heavy metal and rock.
Thanks!

2001 Eclipse GS

Water leak, amp fried, seems pretty standard around here. I read the threads, including the pinned one about the Infinity stereo and I just wanted to get some clarification.

Before I realized that it was the amp, I bought another head unit. I'm planning on bypassing the amp, and I found the bypass harness from the pinned thread. I have a few questions about the best way to do this.

1. I'm assuming that I'm going to do nothing with the black, circular connector on either end, correct?

2. When I hook the bypass harness to the connector under the passenger seat, do I just hook it up and run it back along under the console and up into the dash, or should/can I pull the original wiring back into the dash (if that's where it's coming from) so I don't have that wiring going under my passenger seat? What's the best way to go about this?

3. In addition to the black circular connector, there were two connectors coming out of the stock head unit. One looks like it has 5 wires, one has 4. Do I just leave these unplugged? Do I do anything with these? Do they power anything?

4. Does it sound like I'm completely misunderstanding something?

Thank you very much for the help.

My air conditioning has a very annoying problem, when in fan speed 3 or 4 and when driving it constantly 'clunks' and kicks in and out every second or so!

My mate who is an a/c engineer put some gauges on it and confirmed that the gas charge is sweet but as he is not a car a/c man he couldn't really do much more!

Anyone who has had similair problems?

Cheers

Darrel

hi

i have a five door pinin. and when i put the key in the drivers door to unlock the car it some times works and some times does not.

does anyone have any idea what it might be

thanks for any help i might be able to get

hi guys i was just wondering if any one knows where the fuel pump relay is on a 1996 2ltr petrol space wagon? my wagon has been off the road for a while and im desperately trying to get it back on the road but i cant afford a garage!! if anyone can help i will be most grateful - thanks guys x

I just recently had an aftermarket alarm/remote starter. Everything functions fine, but that's not my problem. I opened up the hood just to check hoses and fluids and then noticed that the siren was attached to the strut bar. I personally have never seen anyone do that. I was pissed at first, but then i looked for other location they could have put it in and I couldn't find an area. The car is a 2005 Galant GTS V6. I can get pics if that will help, but I'm basically trying to see where other people have theirs installed.

hey, ok so im am getting projector headlights for my car, and the halos, can hook into your parking lights so they turn on, but i want mine on pretty much all the time, so what i was wondering was how i would wire the halos up, so that whenever my radio is on, they are on, or if i remote start my car they are on. but i do not want the power to back feed to each other, so im sure i will have to use relays, but not for sure how to wire them. if you could help that would be great. thanks.

Hey, i was looking in the boot of my 2008 lancer gls and i saw this red and yellow connector wire at the top which wasnt connected to anything.. could this possibly be the subwoofer wires u get in the GTS version of the lancer??

I have bought a brand new Colt 1.3 - ClearTech with handsfree Blue-Talk II (MME31821 - MME31821D).

My problem is that the sound is very low. My phone is a HP 614c.

Is there any way to increase the sound?

Thanks in advance.

I have a 1997 eclipse and I am looking for a drawing for the stereo with stock amp as I am looking to put in a different amp and speakers. Any help would be great. Thanks

Ok I may seem off my kilter on this but I own the 09 Lancer with the RF System in it, but it isnt enough for me. Im going to be filling the trunk with 2 RF 15" P3's with 6 6" Earthquake Closed backs with 4 8"s and two super tweeters. I Plan on running them on a cut off switch so that when im having a day away from the car show I can run the stock system. Instead of paying my stereo guy the $200 to throw my amps in for me. I wanted to know if there is a quiker or simpler way to use the power cable and RCA feed from my Pre-existing RF amp. Anyone with any suggestions?

hey all

any advise or projects you know regarding stereos and sch on the montero ltd please
be great

thanks

Hello everyone, I am new to these forums but am looking for some help. I hope this is in the right section. I bought a 09 Eclipse GT back in October. This came with the Sun and Sound package so I have a 6 disc changer Rockford Fosgate audio system. The dealership has a "IPOD" cable for this system and was wondering if anyone knows if this cable would work with a IPHONE. I do not want to pay for a cable that then is just a charger for my IPHONE. Also I know many will say don't get it from the dealership, but im too lazy to go looking for a compatible one and then install it. I would just rather go through the dealership. Any information is appreciated. Worst case, I can just get the Auxiliary cable.

Thank you in advanced.

Hi
I am trying to find out if anyone can give me the pin outs on the dvd sat nav system for a 2000W mitsubishi Shogun 3.5 V6.
I am trying to find an alternative unit to replace the existing failed one
Thanks
Robertw

i am a owner of a 97 Mitsubishi Montero, and i am having difficulties with my audio system since i changed the car battery. i have changed my battery several times and used the code to unlock the audio and it worked, but recently after changing the battery and entering the same unlock code that i use all the time, the audio system is giving me code error and i am unable to access my audio system. Please help with any suggestions or ideas. thank you

Alharrisi

I pulled my stereo out to get code and I accidentlally pulled out that third wire. Not the antenna not the harness but the other one not sure what it is, ground maybe, anyways its disconnected from the other end and I dont know where it goes. Can anyone tell me where I connect that too, cant get power without it connected. Thank you

Hello Everyone,

I've just got a 99 Verada Ei:Kf.

I'm looking to have the car stereo replaced (factory default is installed at the moment) but i'm not sure if
the CD tuners they have on the market will fit in the slot. Does anyone have any ideas please?

I want to know how to use my iphone/blackberry's address book via the hands-free bluetooth system without manually adding each contact.