Please, if you are asking for help with diagnostics, do everyone a favor and list the make, model, year, trans type, engine type, modifications, etc of your car when asking questions about it. Most of us aren't mind readers (although some of us may play one on tv). It will help you get the help you need faster and keep me from asking so many questions and increasing my post count unnecessarily. I think we need a standard format for questions.

year:
make:
model:
mileage:
trans type:
recent maintenance:
recent modifications:
other modifications:

Something like that will help everyone out that is trying to help you. So, please take the time when writing your post to include this much needed information. All of your friends might know what you drive... but we're not your friends

Click on a subject below and you will be redirected to the answer.

How Much Horsepower Does My Car Have?

Click here to find out the history and the changes year by year.

Where can I get OEM parts at wholesale pricing?

What are some good sites to find parts?

My Radio Displays ERR or ofF

My Sport Tour light is flashing. Why?

How do I change my fuel pump?

My "Brake" light stays on, even after the E-Brake is disengaged. Why?

The main reason to go turbo is the added power. I am going to do a short write up of the process of the easiest way to Turbocharge a non turbo 3000GT or Stealth.

Parts List:

Stock TT Injectors

Stock TT Fuel Pump

Stock TT Oil filter Housing

Stock TT Water Neck

Stock TT Down pipe

Stock TT Oil Cooler and lines

Stock TT Plenum-- 78

5.6 OHM Resistors-- 7.73-- www.partsexpress.com

Stock TT Front Motor Mount Bracket

Stock TT Transmission Bracket

Stock TT Oil Pressure Switch

Stock TT Oil Pan

Stock TT Front Precat

Stock TT Exhaust

Stock TT Intercoolers

Stock TT Intercooler piping/intake

Stock TT BOV

Solid Motor Mounts

Fuel Controller

Boost Controller

Boost Gauge

Wide Band

Stock TT Oil feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Coolant feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Turbos

Stock TT Manifold

Stock TT Air filter

Stock TT Gaskets

I wouldn't even think about taking one piece off of your car unless you have all the parts, or you have a second reliable vehicle.

The first thing I did was put the car on four jack stands and take the two front wheels off. Once the car is up off the ground you will find it 100% easier to work on as you don't have to bend down into the engine bay, and getting underneath is pretty easy. Granted a lift would be 200% better I dealt with what I was given.

So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.

I would then swap the fuel pump. You have a couple options here.
1) Use the TT stock assembly and pump and its a direct drop in.
2) Use the TT stock assembly and an aftermarket pump.
3) Use the NA stock assembly with the Stock TT pump or aftermarket pump. (this will require some modification and the use of worm clamps or hose clamps)

Once the fuel pump is in you can close the trunk as that the last time you need to go in there.

I then sprayed down all the nuts and bolts on the exhaust with PB BLASTER, (don't waste your time with anything else just shut your mouth and use PB Blaster) Spray the headers, the down pipe and the cat bolts.

Now while thats doing its job, you get to get organized. I bought Number tags and used them to mark everything I disconnected. This is where I disconnect all the wires on the transmission side of the engine. Connections start at the throttle body and move towards the front bumper. Remove them all. If It is a wire and hooks up the engine disconnect it and mark it.

Drain the radiator, oil pan, oil filter and transmission.

Remove the cooling fans and radiator and store in a safe place. BE SURE TO GET ALL THE FLUID OUT.

Remove the Waterneck and thermostat assembly. Be sure to remove the corrosion if you are using used parts.

Move underneith the car and remove the Driver side axle. This will make your life easier with the rear header and rear motor mount.

Now remove the Downpipe, and as much of the exhaust as you are changing.

Swap oil pans.

Remove front manifolds.

Swap the front motor mount bracket.

Remove the AC compressor and bracket to gain access to the oil filter housing. Swap these. Reattach AC bracket and compressor. You are not actually removing the compressor, you are only unbolting it from its place and moving it away so you can work there.

Clean your hands.

Take the front bumper off.

Stuff the holes on the intercoolers with rags.

Install the passenger intercooler.

Now the fun par find a dremel and go to town on the driver side. first mock up the driver intercooler and see where the hole needs to be and then open it up. Attatch the driver intercooler. The holes are in place so just use the existing holes. The passenger side is easier because the intercooler is the only thing on that side. The driver side also has the oil cooler.Which you should also hook up at this time.

If your oil cooler is not new, you need to flush it. Go to a coin op with a can of PB blaster and flush the thing. Make sure the water is CLEAN when it comes out and make sure you get it all out. I used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I decided it was dry on the inside.

Now with both intercoolers hooked up and the oil cooler attatched the frame take the hoses and attatch the oil cooler to the Oil filter housing. Use NEW crush washers.

Assemble the front turbo. Oil lines and cooling lines. Attach to the front manifold. Then take the whole object (manifold & turbo & O2 Housing) to the front of the block. Attach cooling lines and oil lines.

Keep the rear turbo handy. Remove the upper intake manifold (Plenum) Stuff rags in holes left on engine IMMEDIATLY.


YOU ARE FUCKED IF A BOLT FALLS IN ONE OF THESE HOLES


Remove rear manifold. Swap with Turbo manifold. Attach rear turbo. To the manifold. Attach all lines. Attach rear O2 housing.

Remove the Fuel rails. Swap the injectors. Solider the resistors into the front and rear harness. Reattach the fuel rails with the larger injectors.

Replace the fuel rails.

Put on the Turbo upper plenum. The reason I reccomend using the Turbo plenum instead of the NA is the NA has the VICS motor exactly where the rear turbos hard intercooler pipe wants to go.


Now both turbos are on the engine. Hooked to an oil source and water source which also means that the water neck is changed and that the oil filter housing is changed. You also should have the oil return lines hooked up the the oil pan. This was a pain in the ass and I reccomend getting longer bolts to do this. This actually took me close to two hours pretty much the hardest part of the whole thing.

Attatch the intercooler pipes and hoses to the turbos and intercoolers.

Reattach the exhaust. You should have an 02 sensor and a wide band sensor installed in the exhaust before you bolt it up.

Now its time for the gauges. Wire those in. I reccomend, a wideband, EGT (placed in the rear exhaust manifold before the turbo, and a boost gauge.

Also install the SAFC.

Pull your plugs crank the engine to prime those turbos. Put the plugs back on start and hope you are good.

Everything You Need to Know About the Car.

This is broken up into a couple sections. Modifying, History, Common issues, The Active Suspension, Search

Modifying:
The vast majority of people who buy a 3000GT non turbo are under the impression that one day they will do the twin turbo conversion. The sad reality is that 99% of them will not. Of those 99% about half will have their car blow up. The rest will sell and buy a turbo 3000GT. Another misconception is that BPU upgrades on the non turbo models actually do something. Nothing noticeable will happen. There are no chips or programmers available. Buy your self a set of cams and cam gears. Taking the rear seats out of this car will not make it any faster, sorry not going to happen. It is not a race car it is a Grand Touring Car.
If you bought an automatic… enough said.

If you have a turbo car the first upgrades should be intake, downpipe, cat back exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge. From there you will need to decide what you actually want to do and how much power you want to make. That is a topic in it self.
If you have a non-turbo, you can do intake, headers, cat-back, (not going to net much real world wheel gains)

History:
The Mitsubishi 3000GT
The Mitsubishi GTO
The Dodge Stealth
Guess what, with the exception of a couple body panels and the GTO being Right hand drive no difference. They did have different submodels but they are the same car.
GTO stands for Gran Turismo Omogolato which is translated from Italian as a grand touring race. The reason it was named the 3000GT for stateside use was because Mitsubishi did not want to confuse buyers with other cars such as the Pontiac GTO and the Ferrari GTO. 3000 GT stands for 3 Liter Grand Tourer. Dodge Stealth, Dodge has always had nifty names.

Common Issues, questions, concerns, things that people need to know and ask with out searching:
1. The gauges are just estimates they are not actual readings. EXPECALLY the boost gauge, do not use the stock boost gauge to judge boost.
2. Yes, you have to take the entire intake plenum off to change all six plugs, no changing the front three is not good enough, no its not hard to get to the last three.
3. Changing this car from any configuration to rear wheel drive is useless, go by a Z
4. The GENERAL consensus is that body kits do not look good on the 3000GT, Maybe a front lip and some new rims but dump your money into the motor.
5. Anyone who thinks a non turbo 3000GT is fast or quick, is sadly mistaken.
6. You only need one blow off valve.

The Active Suspension:
That little annoying green flashing light on your dash that says tour/sport is for your active suspension. If it’s blinking the system has broke and defaulted to the Sport mode. If you want to attempt to fix it you can check the four connections which are on top of each strut, than I would check the computer and by check I mean replace, or if you don’t mind it always being in sport mode just disconnect the computer and that will turn off the tour sport light. Looking in the trunk to the right there is a plastic panel with one screw, remove it and unclip the two plugs.
As with any car if you lower your car you need to get matching struts. Some people will argue that you don’t need to if you only drop an inch, but I don’t see why you would not do the complete job correctly the first time.

Search:
When using the search feature only type key words such as, “PWR ECO” for what does the PWR ECO button do? Or, “Tour Sport” for what does the Tour Sport light mean?

Remember to do your timing belt and water pump every 60,000 miles.

Also, keep in mind as with any other car,

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.

Take a look at the list, now pick two because that’s all you are able to have. (Which ever two you pick are the ones your car will be, the other one is what the car will not be.)

TEAM3S.com has a complete walk through for just about anything concerning this car.

And as a friendly reminder, please use the search feature.

~Eric

hey every body been doing tons of research and been going throught the manual and was just wondering if any body could tell me where the cam and the crank sensor is on a 92 mitsubishi 3000 gt sl!!! im not sure if it is all one part or not but i think they are located together some where.. i want to play with the harness and check for corrosion but i dont know where to look.. bottom of vehicle? or top in bay? drivers side or passenger? any help would be appreciated thanks!

I'm wanting to know what to do and or if it is possible to retro fit both the active aero and ECS where this was not present, what parts would I need from a TT?
What would I need to do?
Is it possible?

Hi im looking for a complete set of ECS struts front and back for my vr4.

were any aftermarket ones made?

where can i get some?

what is the price from a dealer?

hey every one just a few questions about my mitsubishi 3000 gt

what is the blue filter valve for located next to the fuel sending unit under the hatch in the fuel pump wiring harness area?
what are the symptoms of a failing coil pack?
is it unsafe to clean platinum plugs with a wire brush?

Whats up guys, my name is Seth, I run a performance shop in Hagerstown, Maryland with deep roots in the 3000GT/Stealth platform. We are helping to sponsor an event in Ocean City, Maryland this year, May 14th- 16th. This is the 15th year I believe. Past years have yielded over 100 3/S cars in attendance. This year we have our own hotel with off street parking specifically for us, car show, and buffet style awards banquet as well as many other activities. I will get a link up to the site here soon. Its a great time and the number one vacation spot in the area with tons of stuff to do.

My wife and i both have a 98 mustang 3.8 liter v6 and a 99 mitsubishi 3000gt sl non turbo. Both cars have about 100k babied miles driven on them, we bought them about the same time, i got the 3000gt new and my wife bought the mustang used with only 12k miles..and let me tell you through experience the 3000gt has been a freeking nightmare..so far with the mustang all i had to do to that car is basic maintence like tires, air filter, and etc. The 3000gt is another story, so far i had to replace the VALVE SEALS which was a mega nightmare, timing belt, water pump, ac compressor, antenna motor, window motor, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION which was another nightmare, tie rods,auto tensioner, turn the warped rotors that wont stop rusting due to cheap metal if you live up north where they salt the roads your going to have fun with these cheap rotors, and a few other minor expensive things. I have done preventive maintenence on both cars, changed tranny fluid, filters, oil changes, and etc. The room to work on this car is another nightmare, especially if your water pump goes, basically it feels like your tearing down the engine because the water pump is powered by the timing belt so to get to this one part you have to buy some "special mitsubishi tools," just to remove and replace the complicated two piece pump and timing belt. On the mustang all i have to do is remove the ONE BELT and unbolt a few bolts and pull it out with all the room in the world i dont have to add attachments to the attachments to remove a bolt in a location where i cant even see it. I dont have to worry about a timing belt snapping on the mustang because it doesnt have one!!! This is just my experience with these two cars yours might be different but i had to let future 3000gt owners know about this car before they invest their hard earned time and money on this car. If you have unlimited time and money this car is perfect for you but to cash shrapped people...BEWARE or you will end up like me with a pretty nightmare.

the first pic is of the mustang the second is the 3000gt

hello i have a 92 3000gt and it started to over heat going down the highway . i got out of the car and seen coolant coming out of overflow and both in and out lines from radiator were hot but my fans were running and i just took out he thermostat and replaced it.after trying to drive it a few more times (filling coolant everytime ) i gave up and replace the waterpump and timing belt. went to drive it , lasted about 15 minutes and started overheating again,on the way back the temp dropped real fast and seemed to be normal again, but then it continued.theres no bubbles in oil or coolant in the oil, but the coolant lines feel very pressurized.rite now i have all water hoses off and the complete housing on the left side of engine . tried 2 different radiators same result. no thermostat or with thermostat, fans are hot wired to come on when car comes on witch works everytime . hoses arent clogged and it wouldnt be the heater core , so is it a cracked head or headgasket ? no white smoke or coolant in oil.

I just traded a couple of dirt bikes I wasn't using for this '94 SL. Runs, but.... it will keep me busy.

The body isn't bad:

What kind of plugs are you guy useing for your turbos with a little work done to the car. I know must people use a colder plug. I used a plug called NGK v-power racing in my last turbo car and thinling about useing th same. What the spark gap that is used.

Hey guys im a noob to the forums and have a few questions. First off the 3000GT VR4 is my dream car and i found one for $2000 and all it need is valve stem seals. I drove it today also and both turbos spool great, tranny and transfer case is great, Clutch is AMAZING!!, and it starts right up. But the only thing is the valve stem seals ive never had to have any done to my 96'GST or 99' GS so was wondering what would it cost normally just for seats im not gonna mo it any til im comfortable goin back from a GS with maybe 150whp(modded) to a VR4 with mabey 260+ at the wheels. As far as i know its bone stock with the stock turbos (can someone also tell me what they are cause they make my T-25 on the GST look huge lol). and if i get it i will post pics. ill describe it now. Its White no dents or dings just common scratches, Chrome rims, Black leather int. with a quite large tear on the driver seat but im puttin new ones in soon anyways. So plz tell me if its worth the $2000 i have a race lined up against a friends 00 Z-28 (was suposed to be mine) and i know the VR4 will be more than enough because he cant drive lol (14.5 in the 1/4 with exhaust, programer, and SLP intake and lid. Auto tranny).


Thanks guys,
93VR4V8EATER (new name lol)

I have a 91 gto. Its a beautiful car, only one thing lets it down,its a clutch problem it has always had. Sometimes it works fine, other times its a real pain. You push the pedal down and you get half the way to the floor of free play and when you do get pressure its really stiff and hard to push down and you can only just change gear. I have tried to fix it over the years but to no avail. I have replaced the clutch and pressure plate, replaced the master and slave cly. Even put a new hyd line in. I am about to replace the booster as a last resort. But im not holding my breath. I have been to many mechanics and all have been left scratching their heads. If after I get the booster done and it still plays up, What is there left to fix.

HELLO GTO/300GT PEOPLE, THIS IS MY FIRST POST...... AND ITS A PROBLEM.

MY 1991 GTO TT TURNS OVER BUT WONT FIRE UP, OR SOMETIMES DOES BUT ONLY FOR 2 SECONDS. I DID GET IT RUNNING WITH A JUMP START AND A SQUIRT OF EASY START BUT I DONT WANT TO USE ON A REGULAR BASIS.

I READ THE FAULT CODE WHICH CAME BACK AS A COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. WOULD THIS STOP THE ENGINE FIRING UP. I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY FOR 10 SECONDS BUT IT STILL DIDNT FIRE UP.

Q1, ANY IDEAS?
Q2, WHERE IS THE COOLANT SENSOR AND IS IT A MAIN DEALER ITEM OR CAN I GET IT SOMEWHERE ELSE?
Q3, MY DUMP VALVE SPITS A TINY OIL RESIDEW ON ONE SIDE OF MY HKS DUAL AIR FILTER, I THOUGHT IT MIGHT HAVE MADE THE AIR MASS METER BLOCKED BUT NO FAULT CODE CAME FOR THIS.

SORRY TO PUT ALL THIS ON YOU AS MY FIRST POST. WILL UPLOAD SOME PICS OF MY CAR AS ITS A NICE EXAMPLE.
THANKS ALL.
ALAN.

I'm new to this forum. . . cut me a little slack, joke, so any way all help is appreciated.

I've been driving my 3000GT for some time without issues. I recently hit a curb (long story), anyway jarred the car so hard it popped out of gear. Didn't seem to be any immediate damage but after a couple of hours there was a hesitation, almost a stutter during acceleration between 3k and 4k rpm. The "stutter" has progressively become worse and now it's all but undrivable. Idle is perfect, rpm holds fine while in neutral but during any type of acceleration the throttle dies as if the engine is stalling and then recovers for a couple seconds and back to a stall. Also it seems a little harder to shift as well. If not for the "curb" incident, one would assume its a fuel delivery system issue.

Thanks, any advice please . . .

After checking out the ECU and the TCU and all the related sensors, and electronics I think my end Clutch pack has failed me.

Will the alto end clutch KT 059757 NA PowerPack® - Overdrive Anti-Warp Kit
include everything I need to replace the clutches?

Or are there any other recommendations?

I got this car in Dec Just strated to drive 2week ago car needed somethings. what kind of oil weight do you guys use?

hey every body just a quick question! does a 92 mitsubishi 3000gt sl have a map sensor and if it does where is it located at? what bout the exact location for the egr valve as i also want to test and make sure its functioning correctly

How and where do you go to put a picture in porfile ?

91 vr4 won't start The car is getting gas no spark. I change the power transistor the ecu was a rebuild when I pulled it out. I look in side and every thing look fine. i look on line a saw a cap rebuild so I took it to my old job that builds circuit boards and change 3 of them with new one but the car still did the same thing. i sent it out to have it tested and rebuild if it need it. i look at every thing but the timeing. I hope they tell me it something wrong with the ecu. Is there something else I sould look at. Is there anybody in Maryland that have one I can test my car with.

I have two stock turbo for sale if anybody looking $150.00 in great shape.

How much would it cost to get these repaired?

* Window Regulator

* Drive Shaft Bearing Support

* Clutch Push Bearing

Thanx

Hey guys

i was looking to polish my engine and really like the finish on electropolish.
Electropolish: removes a thin layer leaving mirror finish. (no plating what so ever, google for more info)

i know i can get the valve cover and the plenum and other bits electropolished.

I am not sure if i should get my short block and heads electropolished??? would that mean i will have to consider the size of the cylinders and intake and exhaust ports ????

I dont know, can someone please shed some info on this.... thanks

m3

1992 mitsubishi 3000 gt is the car to discuss here!
1...does this car have an egr valve?
2...if it does does any body know where its located or what it looks like? pics?
3...is there any way to clean it without taking it off with stuff like seafoam?
any help would be greatly appreciated at this point

I have a 95 GT and need to remove the drivers side door handle. Does anyone have any diagrams or adivice on the correct way or sequence to remove the handle. I have the handle unbolted but cannot access the activation rods to remove clips. Is there any special sequence or method that would make this easier.

Hey guys,

bit of a dilema here.......
I am in the middle of restoring my car at the moment. Took the fuel tank out the other day and found out that there is alot of rust on the inside surface.
Anyhow, common problem with old metal tanks, searched online found alot of different products.
de rusted the tank inside with "metal ready", it didnt work too well. left the thing for a week while the instructions said, to leave it overnight.
anyhow, still had rust inside. but decided to put a sealant anyway to cover the rust and to prevent it from spreading more.

now my problem is the sealant dried up and formed bubbles on the inside surface of the tank.
i cant take the thin film out.
rang a few dismantlers. one had a 1996 gto.
i was wondering if that 1996 would fit a 1992 vr4?

or

a way to get the sealant removed from inside the tank?

Any help appriciated.

Thanks
m3

I've got a 92 Stealth RT/TT and my crank is not repairable. Anyone know where I can find a crankshaft? I'm located in Ontario Canada so they would have to offer shipping to Canada. Any suggestions? Should i put a diifferent engine in it? Tips on my rebuild? Thanks all.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f24/ng10-mega-thread-481846/

What: The 3000GT/Stealth National Gathering is the largest 3S specific event in the world. This is a full auto event not just a car show. We have 3 driving events (Drag Races, Autocross and Road Course), A Car show in a special location(we'll let you know soon). A T-Shirt created for the event. A Special discount rate on hotel . And an awards banquet to top it off. We've also got a huge raffle with prizes from all sponsors and several smaller events like a poker run.

When: June 22th - June 27st
Where: Indianapolis, IN - O'Reily Raceway Park
Registration: http://www.3sng.org/signup10/
Who's coming: http://www.3sng.org/signup10/summary.php

How much does it cost to get a spun bearing fixed? On a 1993 3000gt vr4.

So I got a 19 3000GT SL with a Automatic Transmission. Basically all stock Still has original radio and CD player.

The transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd unless overdrive is off. So it makes me think its electrical but I don't even know where to start looking. Also my speedometer does not register until I am going at least 20mph related issue?

Engine 6G72
Trans F4A33

Any Thoughts??

hello i am looking for an oem replacement steering wheel and glove box latch for my 1995 3000GT Base, and im having trouble locating some online, if anyone can help that would be awesome, trying to avoid dealership prices, ty

Is anyone selling a 60k 1992- 1999, 4-5 USD?

since 3SI sucks big time , here is the new 3S forums

www.3sforums.com

Hi - I'm new to the forum and joined hoping to get some advice from you 3000GT junkies. I'm thinking about purchasing a 3000GT and would love to hear what you guys think about:
- the car itself
- pitfalls it may have
- things to be aware of
- the best year to buy
- the most mileage it should have at the time of purchse (ie, is over 100K asking for trouble?)
- repair costs (ie, what if I need a new tranny)
- things to look out for/check for when checking out the car and test driving


any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

There is a common problem that I see in a lot of older 3000's. The vinyl material that covers the inside of each door is detaching from the door underneath. It occurs most often at the arm rest location.
I would like to find an easy fix if I can. Has any one had a similar problem on their 3000?
I would like to avoid completely removing the covering and re-glueing it.
My thought is to take a heat gun and slowly heat the outside of the vinyl and then try to stick it back down to the door. If there is any glue left behind the vinyl maybe it can be heated and made tacky again.

Anyone experience this type of problem?

Thanks,
Bruce

In Feb09 whilst driving my 1991 GTO Twin Turbo the engine suddenly died. Contacted the local garage who arranged to have it recovered. They traced the fault to a faulty fuel pump. The replacement fuel pump they fitted was a slightly upgraded one. On starting the car it ran fine for 2-3 minutes and then 2 of the injectors started to flood. They then replaced these injectors. Same problem - they again flooded.

One year on problem still not solved. Would be really grateful if anybody can answer the following questions as I really need to get car running and out of garage.

1. Before fitting a slightly upgraded fuel pump should other parts of the fuel system being upgraded?
2. If I replace the upgraded pump with a standard one should this cure the problem?.
3. Has fitting the upgraded pump damaged my fuel system in particular the injectors?

Any help really appreciated.

Hey guys, my step father and I are about to work on a 3000GT SL..... we plan to convert it over to a twin turbo though.


i was wondering what type of engine management systems are out there for these style of cars, im fimilar with Honda having chipped computers, but what about these style of cars?



our plans are to add 2 HX40's, from a cummins diesel, headers, and larger injectors ( if we can get a management for fuel...... )



thanks for your time for

Collin.
---------------

I say possibly as your info might prove me wrong. I fitted a leo vance/mongoose manufactured stainless steel straight through exhaust system with a baily induction kit. All UK aftermarket stuff but good quality gear. I was told that fitting high lift cams would help increase the torque. Would this help matters, and could anyone give me anymore ideas how to improve the torque on my little car?

My Tension pulley on my 1991 3000GT SL is going out. The Dealer told me the part number is MB630163 but is discontinued. I am sure I am not the only one with this problem. Where can I find this pulley? Someone have a alternative part number?

Hi, I have a 1991 GTO Twin Turbo (Grey Import).
It has recently developed a random misfire during cruising, acceleration and decelerating, at the time the misfire starts, the speedo stops working.
I have taken the speedo sender unit off the final drive and connected it to an oscilloscope and turned it using an electric drill, never misses a beat, I assume the sender is o.k. I have wired the sender unit to the speedo direct (off the car) and its works perfectly. I have checked for continuity between the sender connector and the speedo connector behind the dash and all checks ok, the there is also power to the sender and the earth connection is o.k. I have run the sender using a drill while connected up in the car and again all is fine. There is no obvious damage to the wiring loom and the ECU was reconditioned last summer so I can assume the ECU is not at fault.
After re-assembling everything on the car the misfire is still there and speedo keeps cutting out!
The nylon sender driven gear appears undamaged but I don't have the initial diameter measurement to compare against and the sender assembly is fine. There is no obvious movement in the diff which may cause lack of mesh between the two gears, I am now at my wits end!!!
Any offers of help please?
Many thanks
Ivan

hi to all
i have such a thing i want to ask all you chaps

1. abs system seems to work fine
2. ABS dash light goes on and after ignition quickly flashes three time and then off as it suppose to be
3. car is VR-4 from 1992 it has only 55k miles and its kept in garage most of the time
BUT
i had a chance to check it on icy conditions and to me it does not work good - it locks the wheels and does NOT release any of them with any kickback in the pedal
after vehicle is fully stopped there is a buzzing noise from the engine compartment (presumably its the hydrolic unit)
according to the service manual ABS is ok

WHO thinks this is normal, cause i don't think is

any ideas you may have, are welcome

year:1991
make:Mitsubishi
model:GTO Twin Turbo
mileage:100,000km
trans type:5 speed manual
recent maintenance:changed Mass Air Flow box
recent modifications:None (that I know of)
other modifications:None (that I know of)

Hi All,

I've recently treated myself to a GTO, which had misfiring problems, the bloke I bought it from said that it was the MAF box which was disconnnected. I've installed a replacement but although the engine ran smoothly, it cut out at 3000rpm. It's like it's limited to 3k and no more, the revs then drop down whether my foot is on the pedal or not. I then put the original MAF box in and had the same problem. Disconnected, the engine spluttered and misfired but managed to get easily over 3000rpm.

Suspecting an ECU fault, I disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the ECU but when I reconnected the battery, the engine now cuts out at 3500rpm instead of 3000rpm.

I've spoken to my mechanic who said the ECU has been dicked around with to cope with another engine fault, but does anyone know what this might be? This is the first time I've owned one of these cars and have done some research about them, but am no means an expert.

I've read a lot about the ECU's failing in older GTO's, could anyone let me know if this sounds like a fault typical of this?

Thank you very much in advance!

ok on 3sx they say you actually do NOT need the H4 adapter harness you just plug directly into the stock bulb harness
dont you kneed a relay and fuse when you do the converson like in any videos on putting in HID lights
plz help i have the HIDS and whant them in i have a 94

"The kits just plug into your factory harnesses in almost no time" ?

all they gave me was 2ballasts and 2bulbs and the wires that come off of them



i just dont what to burn up my harness

Anyone got some pictures? I would love to see them, I'm going to smoke mine pretty soon.

I have gotten the go ahead from the wife to purchase a new toy. I am on the fence as to whether to get a 3000GT or Skyline. I am mainly interested in the 3000GT due to loving the way the car looks but never have heard to much about them as all the mechanics that I talk to have never worked on one. However im sure parts are easier to get than for a Skyline. I am looking at the Skyline mainly due to its rarity and I know I can drive it all day long and never see another one. Not to mention that its right side drive as well. Any info on the 3000GT would be greatly appreciated as I am looking to make a decision w/in the next 1-2months.

I have a 94 300gt sl and was wondering what i have to do to install my grant streering wheel. I've read that you have to disconnet the battery for one minute and not sure what to do from there. anybody have a clue? and how would i disable the SRS waring light???