Click on a subject below and you will be redirected to the answer.

How Much Horsepower Does My Car Have?

Click here to find out the history and the changes year by year.

Where can I get OEM parts at wholesale pricing?

What are some good sites to find parts?

My Radio Displays ERR or ofF

My Sport Tour light is flashing. Why?

How do I change my fuel pump?

My "Brake" light stays on, even after the E-Brake is disengaged. Why?

The main reason to go turbo is the added power. I am going to do a short write up of the process of the easiest way to Turbocharge a non turbo 3000GT or Stealth.

Parts List:

Stock TT Injectors

Stock TT Fuel Pump

Stock TT Oil filter Housing

Stock TT Water Neck

Stock TT Down pipe

Stock TT Oil Cooler and lines

Stock TT Plenum-- 78

5.6 OHM Resistors-- 7.73-- www.partsexpress.com

Stock TT Front Motor Mount Bracket

Stock TT Transmission Bracket

Stock TT Oil Pressure Switch

Stock TT Oil Pan

Stock TT Front Precat

Stock TT Exhaust

Stock TT Intercoolers

Stock TT Intercooler piping/intake

Stock TT BOV

Solid Motor Mounts

Fuel Controller

Boost Controller

Boost Gauge

Wide Band

Stock TT Oil feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Coolant feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Turbos

Stock TT Manifold

Stock TT Air filter

Stock TT Gaskets

I wouldn't even think about taking one piece off of your car unless you have all the parts, or you have a second reliable vehicle.

The first thing I did was put the car on four jack stands and take the two front wheels off. Once the car is up off the ground you will find it 100% easier to work on as you don't have to bend down into the engine bay, and getting underneath is pretty easy. Granted a lift would be 200% better I dealt with what I was given.

So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.

I would then swap the fuel pump. You have a couple options here.
1) Use the TT stock assembly and pump and its a direct drop in.
2) Use the TT stock assembly and an aftermarket pump.
3) Use the NA stock assembly with the Stock TT pump or aftermarket pump. (this will require some modification and the use of worm clamps or hose clamps)

Once the fuel pump is in you can close the trunk as that the last time you need to go in there.

I then sprayed down all the nuts and bolts on the exhaust with PB BLASTER, (don't waste your time with anything else just shut your mouth and use PB Blaster) Spray the headers, the down pipe and the cat bolts.

Now while thats doing its job, you get to get organized. I bought Number tags and used them to mark everything I disconnected. This is where I disconnect all the wires on the transmission side of the engine. Connections start at the throttle body and move towards the front bumper. Remove them all. If It is a wire and hooks up the engine disconnect it and mark it.

Drain the radiator, oil pan, oil filter and transmission.

Remove the cooling fans and radiator and store in a safe place. BE SURE TO GET ALL THE FLUID OUT.

Remove the Waterneck and thermostat assembly. Be sure to remove the corrosion if you are using used parts.

Move underneith the car and remove the Driver side axle. This will make your life easier with the rear header and rear motor mount.

Now remove the Downpipe, and as much of the exhaust as you are changing.

Swap oil pans.

Remove front manifolds.

Swap the front motor mount bracket.

Remove the AC compressor and bracket to gain access to the oil filter housing. Swap these. Reattach AC bracket and compressor. You are not actually removing the compressor, you are only unbolting it from its place and moving it away so you can work there.

Clean your hands.

Take the front bumper off.

Stuff the holes on the intercoolers with rags.

Install the passenger intercooler.

Now the fun par find a dremel and go to town on the driver side. first mock up the driver intercooler and see where the hole needs to be and then open it up. Attatch the driver intercooler. The holes are in place so just use the existing holes. The passenger side is easier because the intercooler is the only thing on that side. The driver side also has the oil cooler.Which you should also hook up at this time.

If your oil cooler is not new, you need to flush it. Go to a coin op with a can of PB blaster and flush the thing. Make sure the water is CLEAN when it comes out and make sure you get it all out. I used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I decided it was dry on the inside.

Now with both intercoolers hooked up and the oil cooler attatched the frame take the hoses and attatch the oil cooler to the Oil filter housing. Use NEW crush washers.

Assemble the front turbo. Oil lines and cooling lines. Attach to the front manifold. Then take the whole object (manifold & turbo & O2 Housing) to the front of the block. Attach cooling lines and oil lines.

Keep the rear turbo handy. Remove the upper intake manifold (Plenum) Stuff rags in holes left on engine IMMEDIATLY.


YOU ARE FUCKED IF A BOLT FALLS IN ONE OF THESE HOLES


Remove rear manifold. Swap with Turbo manifold. Attach rear turbo. To the manifold. Attach all lines. Attach rear O2 housing.

Remove the Fuel rails. Swap the injectors. Solider the resistors into the front and rear harness. Reattach the fuel rails with the larger injectors.

Replace the fuel rails.

Put on the Turbo upper plenum. The reason I reccomend using the Turbo plenum instead of the NA is the NA has the VICS motor exactly where the rear turbos hard intercooler pipe wants to go.


Now both turbos are on the engine. Hooked to an oil source and water source which also means that the water neck is changed and that the oil filter housing is changed. You also should have the oil return lines hooked up the the oil pan. This was a pain in the ass and I reccomend getting longer bolts to do this. This actually took me close to two hours pretty much the hardest part of the whole thing.

Attatch the intercooler pipes and hoses to the turbos and intercoolers.

Reattach the exhaust. You should have an 02 sensor and a wide band sensor installed in the exhaust before you bolt it up.

Now its time for the gauges. Wire those in. I reccomend, a wideband, EGT (placed in the rear exhaust manifold before the turbo, and a boost gauge.

Also install the SAFC.

Pull your plugs crank the engine to prime those turbos. Put the plugs back on start and hope you are good.

Please, if you are asking for help with diagnostics, do everyone a favor and list the make, model, year, trans type, engine type, modifications, etc of your car when asking questions about it. Most of us aren't mind readers (although some of us may play one on tv). It will help you get the help you need faster and keep me from asking so many questions and increasing my post count unnecessarily. I think we need a standard format for questions.

year:
make:
model:
mileage:
trans type:
recent maintenance:
recent modifications:
other modifications:

Something like that will help everyone out that is trying to help you. So, please take the time when writing your post to include this much needed information. All of your friends might know what you drive... but we're not your friends

Everything You Need to Know About the Car.

This is broken up into a couple sections. Modifying, History, Common issues, The Active Suspension, Search

Modifying:
The vast majority of people who buy a 3000GT non turbo are under the impression that one day they will do the twin turbo conversion. The sad reality is that 99% of them will not. Of those 99% about half will have their car blow up. The rest will sell and buy a turbo 3000GT. Another misconception is that BPU upgrades on the non turbo models actually do something. Nothing noticeable will happen. There are no chips or programmers available. Buy your self a set of cams and cam gears. Taking the rear seats out of this car will not make it any faster, sorry not going to happen. It is not a race car it is a Grand Touring Car.
If you bought an automatic… enough said.

If you have a turbo car the first upgrades should be intake, downpipe, cat back exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge. From there you will need to decide what you actually want to do and how much power you want to make. That is a topic in it self.
If you have a non-turbo, you can do intake, headers, cat-back, (not going to net much real world wheel gains)

History:
The Mitsubishi 3000GT
The Mitsubishi GTO
The Dodge Stealth
Guess what, with the exception of a couple body panels and the GTO being Right hand drive no difference. They did have different submodels but they are the same car.
GTO stands for Gran Turismo Omogolato which is translated from Italian as a grand touring race. The reason it was named the 3000GT for stateside use was because Mitsubishi did not want to confuse buyers with other cars such as the Pontiac GTO and the Ferrari GTO. 3000 GT stands for 3 Liter Grand Tourer. Dodge Stealth, Dodge has always had nifty names.

Common Issues, questions, concerns, things that people need to know and ask with out searching:
1. The gauges are just estimates they are not actual readings. EXPECALLY the boost gauge, do not use the stock boost gauge to judge boost.
2. Yes, you have to take the entire intake plenum off to change all six plugs, no changing the front three is not good enough, no its not hard to get to the last three.
3. Changing this car from any configuration to rear wheel drive is useless, go by a Z
4. The GENERAL consensus is that body kits do not look good on the 3000GT, Maybe a front lip and some new rims but dump your money into the motor.
5. Anyone who thinks a non turbo 3000GT is fast or quick, is sadly mistaken.
6. You only need one blow off valve.

The Active Suspension:
That little annoying green flashing light on your dash that says tour/sport is for your active suspension. If it’s blinking the system has broke and defaulted to the Sport mode. If you want to attempt to fix it you can check the four connections which are on top of each strut, than I would check the computer and by check I mean replace, or if you don’t mind it always being in sport mode just disconnect the computer and that will turn off the tour sport light. Looking in the trunk to the right there is a plastic panel with one screw, remove it and unclip the two plugs.
As with any car if you lower your car you need to get matching struts. Some people will argue that you don’t need to if you only drop an inch, but I don’t see why you would not do the complete job correctly the first time.

Search:
When using the search feature only type key words such as, “PWR ECO” for what does the PWR ECO button do? Or, “Tour Sport” for what does the Tour Sport light mean?

Remember to do your timing belt and water pump every 60,000 miles.

Also, keep in mind as with any other car,

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.

Take a look at the list, now pick two because that’s all you are able to have. (Which ever two you pick are the ones your car will be, the other one is what the car will not be.)

TEAM3S.com has a complete walk through for just about anything concerning this car.

And as a friendly reminder, please use the search feature.

~Eric

Does anyone know any shops which sell After-Market or Used Auto-Parts where I can find some cheap/used parts for 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT (Black) ?

I need a Front bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, Radiator, Engine Fan w/ blades, Radiator Shroud, A/C Condensor and A/C Fan assembly.

Your any help would be fairly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance ..

Jimmy.
(jkmd6c@mst.edu)

hi, im pretty sure i was searching on here and came across a link to a site that you could enter the vin of a GTO, and it would tell you all the info on the car, like how many where made of this color, and how many before and how many after... but i cant find it, if anyone knows what ime talking about, please help

Did some searching on here and really couldn't find the answer. I have a 94' 3kGT SL 5speed.

I currently have the stock silver alloy rims. 16 x 8JJ with 225/55 16's. I want to put some nice rims and tires on it.

1. Since it came with those sizes - would it be best to match new rim and tires to those sizes?

2. If not, what rim and tire size would you suggest? What is a common aftermarket size set-up that people are using?

3. Any good recommendations on where to get nice, reasonably priced rims?

4. Any suggestions on good looking rims for a black SL?

5. Would love to see pics of black vehicled set-ups (rims).



Thanks for taking the time to respond.

hi guys, how hard it is to replace the rear power steering lines on top of the rear end on the 4WS ? being a 92, i know a few VR4 and R/T has the same problem, the lines just rustted out and leaks, looks like i will have to lower the rear end down by take the 3 bolts of the big bracket that holds the rear end up, that will give me more room to get to the lines right ?

I got this 1998 3000GT VR4 6speed off this 68 year old man. original owner. bone stock, garaged, had all the maintenance work orders. 78K miles for $10,800.00

Hi im Rico i recently bought a 96 3000gt sl with 140000miles and about a month after i got it i stopped at a stop sign and when i tried to go it acted like it was in nuetral so i applied the brake put it in park then drive then i worked fine.... now 4 months later when i get on it to pass someone the tranny slips so i let off the gas and press it again then it shifts ive talked to some buddies about it they say it the 20's i have on it are heavy so it messin with the tranny.....do you guys have any ideas for me i love my car to much to have it broke down and have to sit on the side of the road id really appreciat the help

hi guys, how do you all doing ? i'm newbie to this, is it posible to do a headlight conversion from a 92 stealth, the flip up one to the later one, like 94 up ? if posible, what parts do i need ?, mine's a 92 Stealth TT

I recently purchased a 94' 3000GT SL 5-speed. Great little car and a blast to drive in the mtns.

It just started developing a little shimmy around 70 mph. Doesn't get any worse beyond that speed - it's consistant. It also is developing a shimmy at those higher speeds under light braking. Heavy braking though - and there's no shimmy. I noticed the inside portion of the front tires is wearing uneven from the rest of the tire. From the inside side wall in about an inch on both fronts. I am guessing all of those are related, and wondering if it is a tie rod issue, in need of dynamic balance, toe/camber issue or what. Anyone else experience these or have a suggestion on what it may be?

Also, can anyone recommend a knowledgeable mechanic/company with the 3000GT's on the Front Range (Denver/No. Colorado)?

Appreciate your thoughts - and love this forum.

I have a '90 GTO twin turbo. The shocks are starting to get bouncy so Im looking at replacing them. I am probably going to get coil overs all round. Has anyone else done this and can suggest a particular brand they do or dont recommend? I take it the suspension is the same for my car and the 3000GT?

When i got the car a week ago the problem wasn't there but one night i park and in the morn when i go to drive it i noticed its really hard to put it into gear. I push the clutch all the way in but going into 5th and 6th especially is very hard. Reverse is even harder u really have to push it in hard and to get out of reverse you have to really pull that thing out. It almost seems like theres something binding within the linkage im not sure though. The clutch fluid was really dirty so i bleed the fluid with fresh new fluid but still the problem was there.. I dont feel slipping or anything just all in the shifter its really rough. mainly going to the right direction. no signs of leaking from the master.

that was a week ago. Recently its a little smoother going into gear but reverse still really rough and getting out of all gears it feels like theres binding going back to neutral like its rubbin up on something... sometimes when i go to 2nd and 3rd its not smooth feels like its grindin or something is rubbin. then when i put it in gear ill hear a grind for a slipt second because the gear wont go in smooth.

I took it to a tech and he noticed my clutch pedal was really hard to push down and he thought maybe the clutch pressure plate was bad. but as for the shifting he think theres something up in the linkage..any ideas?

year: 98
make: mitsu
model: 3000gt vr4
mileage:78K
trans type:6spd
recent maintenance: vaccum hose replaced by prev owner. and i bleed the clutch fluid
recent modifications: k&n intake + hks sqv bov

I have a a '90 GTO Twin Turbo. Sometimes when I am braking the engine warning light comes on. This seems to have started around the same time that I occasional get an engine surge (reducing power) though these events dont occur at the same time. I was wondering how I engage the diagnostic mode as I believe that one of the sensors is playing up; maybe due to a broken wire (hence the light coming on when Im braking)?

I have a 1992 VR4, I know iv seen pics of 3kgts, back when i was looking to buy one, where the headlights are on, but the flip up lights are still in the down position, causing the beam of light to come through the little lens in front of the flip ups. I think it looks awesome like that and i cant figure out how to get that to happen. How do i do it, and is it really supposed to happen or was it just some stupid mod that i saw?

Something strange has been happing with my 1995 NA. I was blasting out of the toll booths last week and I glanced over at my oil pressure gauge and it was at zero…. OUCH! I figured I had an oil leak, and hard run out. I stopped at the rest area and there seemed to be plenty of oil, but the engine seemed particularly hot.

I crawled over to Autozone, but on the way there something strange happened… the pressure when back into the operating range. I checked the oil again and found it to be a little low- I added a quart.

The pressure has been all over the place from zero to normal the last few times I drove it.


I’m thinking that I have some sludge or something…. ? I’m thinking about dropping the oil-pan and seeing what sort of great stuff I can find in here. Any suggestions on what else to do while I have that dropped? Any other ideas for fixing my problem?


Thanks.


Oh – and I haven’t made any recent changes to the car – just an oil change. I’m almost at 200K miles now.

I am in need of a section from the GTO Service Manual (electrical), not the 3000GT manual. I am looking for the wiring diagram for the digital clock in the 3 gauge cluster. Thank you in advance.

for manual transmissions how do u now when u have enuf oil in the trany
i changed out my clutch a few weeks ago and i changed my trans oil to royal purple
there is a bolt on the side of the trany i took it out filled the trany with oil untail the oil started to come out
it took 2 1/4 quarts i was told thats the way you do it

how do you clean out slug out of the motor what works the best because i have a 94 with 150k on it and the last owner did no do shit to the car but drive it

the car seams kinda slugish

This unit will allow the conversion from the very restricive stock MAF sensor to the free flowing and accurate GM sensors.

do u think its worth it $200

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanc...MAF_Translators

I recently discovered that my car does not retain water or coolant. I put it in and it comes out of the bottom is a semi-rapid speed. Hosesup top and radiator arent leaking, but the leas seems to be coming from under the resevoir where I put the liquid in (Maybe under water pump?) Does anyone know of any common leaks, and does anyone know where I can find an image of that part of the car?

Just an ad I found on ebay today...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Mitsub...A1%7C240%3A1318

I wonder if people really are that stupid.

My AC hasn't worked since I got my 95 NA. I used one of those re-fill kits I used on my 2004 galant - not sure if that was a mistake or what - maybe the 95 has different refrigerant.

But when I tried charging it, the compressor does kick in and I get some cool air for about 30 seconds.

Definitely seems like I have a leak or somthing, but nothing turned up with the dye.

I have another compressor out of my junk car, but I have no idea if it's good.


Any advise on the AC problem in the car and/or testing the spare compressor?

-AA

just wondering where I can get a H4 conversion for 93 vr4. thanks

how do able is it to remove the AWS on these cars?
second, what is the weight loss with them being out.
and last do they drive pretty much the same.
i haven't really noticed a difference in driving between my 3000GT and my R/T TT. (except i can feel the 3000 being lighter)

Alright, im new here, but i have an issue. 91 GTO twin turbo, at idle if i pull out the dipstick theres air rushing out of the tube and when the turbos kick in drivin it will blow the dipstick out of the tube. so im assuming theres too much pressure in teh crank case, could it be an intake gasket... or maybe pcv vavle or what? also it smokes white. Im new to these cars im used to integras, so please help me out if you can or just shoot some ideas anything helps, thanks

Can someone help me in finding the actual date (day & month in 1990) + how many were produced per day?
My GTO has the VIN Z16A0000072. So,...I'm trying to work out the actual day that it was "BORN".(my baby)

The relay on the side of the console, gold box. Where does it get its power from? Nothing clicks when i turn the key, but if I go to start it, the fuel pump side of it clicks, and the other side doesnt, and the car wont start. No cel light at all, even when i turn the key 2 clicks and all lights are supposed to come on. There is no power going into the one side of the relay(ecu side), where does the power for that side come from? I checked all fuses and they are all good. If I jumper 3 wires on the ecu side of the relay, the relay works and the car will start.can anyone tell me where the power comes from for this side of the relay?

are the 3000gt dsm a lot of people keep telling me to not get a dsm
let me know

i bought my gt sl new in 92' and man what a head turner and today 17 year later it still gets alot of looks. I can't believe how cheap you can pick one up for now!!!!! man i would love to think my car would be worth more but i guess i'll just have to drive and enjoy it forever .......this is one of those cars i'm going to keep forever so i don't have to say "remember that car, i wish i still had that" like my 67' GTO

I LOVE MY MITSU


cheers to all

fryguy

ok i've had this car since new 92' 3000gt sl and some times i feel like i'm lugging it a little and wonder where in the rpm range do others shift???? thanks

fryguy

1990 GTO with a stealth bumper/cornerlights/foglights/headlightcovers(yes they are different)

Also, the swap was not intentional

...And I can for the life of me figure out who makes it or where I can buy it or if I even can. I'm thinking it must be a complete custom job. If you do know where I can buy this kit please post a link. It's the one on the right. Thanks.

I have been looking forever for a wide body kit for a 3000gt vr4 and have only found...well nothing. I think this one is custom as well as the other one that I posted the other day. If it's not a custom body kit please inform me of where I can purchase it. Thanks.

after all these year i'm going to give my 3000gt sl 92' the love it deserves and am looking for some helpful hints and advice on this forum thanks

so today i crank up the car...
and damn it!!! the famous ticking sound...
not the first time its happened to me.. (replaced the heads last time)
im sick and tired of constantly fixing things wrong with this car.
my question is this.
how much time do i have before my engine gives out?
or will the car be ok even with the rocker rods/arms that are ticking??
yes i checked my oil and everything is ok. so lack of oil is no problem.

hi, I have a 91 gto vr4 5spd and when I am driving if i push the clutch in the rpms stay at around 2.5 to 3000, I can even pop it in neutral and let the clutch out and they will still hang, it will not drop at all. But when i start coming to a stop (with clutch in, or neutral) and hit around 20 kmh the rpms drop back down to idle. there is no fluctuation in the idle, it idles around 800 with no problems. Even if i take off really slow and let it coast in first gear, once it hits 20kmh you can feel the car speed up a bit on its own

Hi, How many 02 sensors are on the japan 1991 Mitsubishi Gto twin turbo. The only one I can see is in the back part of the cat, and I dont know if that is the egt sensor. Trying to get it to pass e-test, and i cant find the right 02 sensor for it.

i broke a shift fork inside of my transmission and it would cost 3200 t rebuild it so i need a used one with low miles, anyone have a parts car layin around with semi low miles, i can buy one for 550 plus shipping so i willing to buy one off someone here and pay for shipping as well

Hi, i am in need of a o2 sensor for a 91 gto vr4, I cant seem to find anywhere that sells the jdm parts. Does anyone know where to get parts for it? Thank you

Has anyone used the Street Performance Helix Power Tower Plus Throttle Body Space kit and Short Ram Air Intake before?

I haven't done anything to the car yet, and I know the first things are usually Air Intakes and Exhausts. I thought I would do the air intake, and I remember seeing on a show that the throttle body spacer looked easy to install, and added horsepower and torque.

I have the Non-Turbo 3.0 24 Valve engine. I wanted to start getting into modifications, and thought the simplest would be best to do first. I hope to rebuild the engine at some point, but I don't have the money to do that now, but I do have enough to put the air intake and throttle body spacer in.


In a couple of months, hopefully I can upgrade the exhaust system.

Any suggestions, thoughts, or concerns about the Throttle Body Spacer kit?

Thanks,
Eric Martindale

I think my alternator is going out.. last week i started the car and the batt. light, break light, and engine coolant light went on. I looked at the voltage and it was below 12. after about a minute it went back to normal. has anyone had this problem? how long do i have?.... I plan on installing ALOT of audio stuff this summer so I was thinking of putting a higher performance alternator in. I know the stock one is 110 Amps... will i hurt anything on the car if I increase that number? should I just leave it at 110 and get a yellow top batt.? Let me know what you think guys

Thanks, mike

what are some quick and cheep thing to do to a 94 3000gt NA to gain hp
i know intake and xast
but any other miner thing that u can do to up the hp

thanks

Another damn problem with my car.
on a cloudy, cool day car runs fine.
on a hot day when im driving, car tends to idle below 1000rpm and struggles to turn off.
as soon as im on a hill or even a slight inclination (freeway offramp for ex)
the car will turn off as soon as i step on the clutch or put it in neutral, car turns off.
this will only happen on an inclination and on a hot day.
and the voltometer will also idle wanting to turn off as the engine idles as well.
any ideas??
im going insane

I have a 92 car and am putting in a 96 transmission. The speed sensor is different.... How do I make this work?

ok well i kneed a clutch
how hard is it to put it in

ok on the throttle body there is 2 lines that the coolant goes threw. would it up the hp if i bypassed it
because when the coolant gets hot it gets the throttle body hotter. i dont know i am just asking
and also the hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake could u block that off to up the hp
i am looking at thing like that that i can do that can boost up my hp

thanks

Ihave a '92 car, and a '96 transmission. FWD. What axles do I need?