Please, if you are asking for help with diagnostics, do everyone a favor and list the make, model, year, trans type, engine type, modifications, etc of your car when asking questions about it. Most of us aren't mind readers (although some of us may play one on tv). It will help you get the help you need faster and keep me from asking so many questions and increasing my post count unnecessarily. I think we need a standard format for questions.

year:
make:
model:
mileage:
trans type:
recent maintenance:
recent modifications:
other modifications:

Something like that will help everyone out that is trying to help you. So, please take the time when writing your post to include this much needed information. All of your friends might know what you drive... but we're not your friends

Click on a subject below and you will be redirected to the answer.

How Much Horsepower Does My Car Have?

Click here to find out the history and the changes year by year.

Where can I get OEM parts at wholesale pricing?

What are some good sites to find parts?

My Radio Displays ERR or ofF

My Sport Tour light is flashing. Why?

How do I change my fuel pump?

My "Brake" light stays on, even after the E-Brake is disengaged. Why?

The main reason to go turbo is the added power. I am going to do a short write up of the process of the easiest way to Turbocharge a non turbo 3000GT or Stealth.

Parts List:

Stock TT Injectors

Stock TT Fuel Pump

Stock TT Oil filter Housing

Stock TT Water Neck

Stock TT Down pipe

Stock TT Oil Cooler and lines

Stock TT Plenum-- 78

5.6 OHM Resistors-- 7.73-- www.partsexpress.com

Stock TT Front Motor Mount Bracket

Stock TT Transmission Bracket

Stock TT Oil Pressure Switch

Stock TT Oil Pan

Stock TT Front Precat

Stock TT Exhaust

Stock TT Intercoolers

Stock TT Intercooler piping/intake

Stock TT BOV

Solid Motor Mounts

Fuel Controller

Boost Controller

Boost Gauge

Wide Band

Stock TT Oil feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Coolant feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Turbos

Stock TT Manifold

Stock TT Air filter

Stock TT Gaskets

I wouldn't even think about taking one piece off of your car unless you have all the parts, or you have a second reliable vehicle.

The first thing I did was put the car on four jack stands and take the two front wheels off. Once the car is up off the ground you will find it 100% easier to work on as you don't have to bend down into the engine bay, and getting underneath is pretty easy. Granted a lift would be 200% better I dealt with what I was given.

So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.

I would then swap the fuel pump. You have a couple options here.
1) Use the TT stock assembly and pump and its a direct drop in.
2) Use the TT stock assembly and an aftermarket pump.
3) Use the NA stock assembly with the Stock TT pump or aftermarket pump. (this will require some modification and the use of worm clamps or hose clamps)

Once the fuel pump is in you can close the trunk as that the last time you need to go in there.

I then sprayed down all the nuts and bolts on the exhaust with PB BLASTER, (don't waste your time with anything else just shut your mouth and use PB Blaster) Spray the headers, the down pipe and the cat bolts.

Now while thats doing its job, you get to get organized. I bought Number tags and used them to mark everything I disconnected. This is where I disconnect all the wires on the transmission side of the engine. Connections start at the throttle body and move towards the front bumper. Remove them all. If It is a wire and hooks up the engine disconnect it and mark it.

Drain the radiator, oil pan, oil filter and transmission.

Remove the cooling fans and radiator and store in a safe place. BE SURE TO GET ALL THE FLUID OUT.

Remove the Waterneck and thermostat assembly. Be sure to remove the corrosion if you are using used parts.

Move underneith the car and remove the Driver side axle. This will make your life easier with the rear header and rear motor mount.

Now remove the Downpipe, and as much of the exhaust as you are changing.

Swap oil pans.

Remove front manifolds.

Swap the front motor mount bracket.

Remove the AC compressor and bracket to gain access to the oil filter housing. Swap these. Reattach AC bracket and compressor. You are not actually removing the compressor, you are only unbolting it from its place and moving it away so you can work there.

Clean your hands.

Take the front bumper off.

Stuff the holes on the intercoolers with rags.

Install the passenger intercooler.

Now the fun par find a dremel and go to town on the driver side. first mock up the driver intercooler and see where the hole needs to be and then open it up. Attatch the driver intercooler. The holes are in place so just use the existing holes. The passenger side is easier because the intercooler is the only thing on that side. The driver side also has the oil cooler.Which you should also hook up at this time.

If your oil cooler is not new, you need to flush it. Go to a coin op with a can of PB blaster and flush the thing. Make sure the water is CLEAN when it comes out and make sure you get it all out. I used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I decided it was dry on the inside.

Now with both intercoolers hooked up and the oil cooler attatched the frame take the hoses and attatch the oil cooler to the Oil filter housing. Use NEW crush washers.

Assemble the front turbo. Oil lines and cooling lines. Attach to the front manifold. Then take the whole object (manifold & turbo & O2 Housing) to the front of the block. Attach cooling lines and oil lines.

Keep the rear turbo handy. Remove the upper intake manifold (Plenum) Stuff rags in holes left on engine IMMEDIATLY.


YOU ARE FUCKED IF A BOLT FALLS IN ONE OF THESE HOLES


Remove rear manifold. Swap with Turbo manifold. Attach rear turbo. To the manifold. Attach all lines. Attach rear O2 housing.

Remove the Fuel rails. Swap the injectors. Solider the resistors into the front and rear harness. Reattach the fuel rails with the larger injectors.

Replace the fuel rails.

Put on the Turbo upper plenum. The reason I reccomend using the Turbo plenum instead of the NA is the NA has the VICS motor exactly where the rear turbos hard intercooler pipe wants to go.


Now both turbos are on the engine. Hooked to an oil source and water source which also means that the water neck is changed and that the oil filter housing is changed. You also should have the oil return lines hooked up the the oil pan. This was a pain in the ass and I reccomend getting longer bolts to do this. This actually took me close to two hours pretty much the hardest part of the whole thing.

Attatch the intercooler pipes and hoses to the turbos and intercoolers.

Reattach the exhaust. You should have an 02 sensor and a wide band sensor installed in the exhaust before you bolt it up.

Now its time for the gauges. Wire those in. I reccomend, a wideband, EGT (placed in the rear exhaust manifold before the turbo, and a boost gauge.

Also install the SAFC.

Pull your plugs crank the engine to prime those turbos. Put the plugs back on start and hope you are good.

Everything You Need to Know About the Car.

This is broken up into a couple sections. Modifying, History, Common issues, The Active Suspension, Search

Modifying:
The vast majority of people who buy a 3000GT non turbo are under the impression that one day they will do the twin turbo conversion. The sad reality is that 99% of them will not. Of those 99% about half will have their car blow up. The rest will sell and buy a turbo 3000GT. Another misconception is that BPU upgrades on the non turbo models actually do something. Nothing noticeable will happen. There are no chips or programmers available. Buy your self a set of cams and cam gears. Taking the rear seats out of this car will not make it any faster, sorry not going to happen. It is not a race car it is a Grand Touring Car.
If you bought an automatic… enough said.

If you have a turbo car the first upgrades should be intake, downpipe, cat back exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge. From there you will need to decide what you actually want to do and how much power you want to make. That is a topic in it self.
If you have a non-turbo, you can do intake, headers, cat-back, (not going to net much real world wheel gains)

History:
The Mitsubishi 3000GT
The Mitsubishi GTO
The Dodge Stealth
Guess what, with the exception of a couple body panels and the GTO being Right hand drive no difference. They did have different submodels but they are the same car.
GTO stands for Gran Turismo Omogolato which is translated from Italian as a grand touring race. The reason it was named the 3000GT for stateside use was because Mitsubishi did not want to confuse buyers with other cars such as the Pontiac GTO and the Ferrari GTO. 3000 GT stands for 3 Liter Grand Tourer. Dodge Stealth, Dodge has always had nifty names.

Common Issues, questions, concerns, things that people need to know and ask with out searching:
1. The gauges are just estimates they are not actual readings. EXPECALLY the boost gauge, do not use the stock boost gauge to judge boost.
2. Yes, you have to take the entire intake plenum off to change all six plugs, no changing the front three is not good enough, no its not hard to get to the last three.
3. Changing this car from any configuration to rear wheel drive is useless, go by a Z
4. The GENERAL consensus is that body kits do not look good on the 3000GT, Maybe a front lip and some new rims but dump your money into the motor.
5. Anyone who thinks a non turbo 3000GT is fast or quick, is sadly mistaken.
6. You only need one blow off valve.

The Active Suspension:
That little annoying green flashing light on your dash that says tour/sport is for your active suspension. If it’s blinking the system has broke and defaulted to the Sport mode. If you want to attempt to fix it you can check the four connections which are on top of each strut, than I would check the computer and by check I mean replace, or if you don’t mind it always being in sport mode just disconnect the computer and that will turn off the tour sport light. Looking in the trunk to the right there is a plastic panel with one screw, remove it and unclip the two plugs.
As with any car if you lower your car you need to get matching struts. Some people will argue that you don’t need to if you only drop an inch, but I don’t see why you would not do the complete job correctly the first time.

Search:
When using the search feature only type key words such as, “PWR ECO” for what does the PWR ECO button do? Or, “Tour Sport” for what does the Tour Sport light mean?

Remember to do your timing belt and water pump every 60,000 miles.

Also, keep in mind as with any other car,

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.

Take a look at the list, now pick two because that’s all you are able to have. (Which ever two you pick are the ones your car will be, the other one is what the car will not be.)

TEAM3S.com has a complete walk through for just about anything concerning this car.

And as a friendly reminder, please use the search feature.

~Eric

Hi, i ordered 2 front wheel bearings off ebay for my 1991 twin turbo and gave them to the garage to fit them. Got a call today saying that the original hubs had studs on them and that the new ones dont and that they would need bolts for them. Has anyone came across this before and do you know what size of bolts i would need and would it be threaded holes in the new hub.

I have a 1995 3000gt with a 5 speed and am very happy with it. But I don't have a manual for it as of yet. My problem is a light with what looks like a ( radiator) at the bottom right hand corner bottom of the dash just came on and I have no idea what the symbol stands for. I check all my water/oil/power steering and while driving everything looks fine. Can anyone help with info. Thanks

Dear Forum members,

I need some help with a problem with my 1993 3000GT SL. Stopped for gas last night on way home. Started car to leave filling station and noticed vehicle is stuck in 2nd gear.

I have a automatic trans with the overdrive pushbutton on the shift lever. Manually shifting tranny into 1st, 2nd or drive makes no difference....still stuck in second gear. Also, overdrive button does not work.

This happened without warning. Went home and checked fluid level in tranny. Topped off fluid level with ~1.5 quarts....damn hard to read level on dipstick!! Problem persists after adding fluid.

Any ideas regarding the nature of this problem?? Something electrical??

Car has 88K original miles and is driven with care.

Feedback appreciated

I have a 98 3000GT i just replaced the slave cylinder...the pedal gets hard and wont go all the way to the floor but is not engaging the clutch? any ideas?

I just moved to El Campo,TX about 2 months ago. I finally got a good job. Its just south of Houston. Well anyways, I met this guy that drives around a modified Honda Civic Si. I mentioned I was looking for a good import to buy. He told me his girl had a car she wanted to sell. Its a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt SL. Theres some minor bodywork that needs done, and the engine is the tough part.

Now I got alot of friends that are good with engines and will gladly help me for a few cases of beer. The guy told me it may need a new engine but he told me I could fix it if I felt like taking it to a shop. Something with the head gasket and something needs shaved. Idk, im not good with engines yet, but I will be when I go to UTI this fall. Anyways, they just put a new starter and radiator in, it has 100,000 miles on it, and it look alrite. I'll post pics up. He knows a company that deals in Japanese engines. I called them today and they said they could ship me out a 3.0L V6 24v DOHC for about $935 plus $150 shipping. Which isnt bad i dont think.

Now to the price, the guy wants $400 for it. I helped him pull his car home when his cv joint went out. $400 for the shell is a good deal in my eyes, not in my dads, but he also dont like tuners. or the automotive life lol. Thinks its a waste of money. The chassis looks good, no rust, the inside is a lil tore up, but it wont be that hard to fix. No radio, but those are not that expensive, the glass is all good, paints a lil chipped, small dent in drivers door, cranks over, but dont start due to a leak. He also said it may need to be drained. Um, idk if i missed anything. Tires are good, transmission is good, exhaust has no problems, everything seems good except for that engine problem.

Now I need your advice on this, is this a good buy? My previous car was a 1992 Honda Accord which gave out at 249,059 miles. This will be my second car, and I love imports and racing. I'm 19, almost 20 and I need a car to get to college and back in September, and I really want a project car. And honestly, I think this would be a good one. I love 3000gt ' s.

HI

can somebody please help

i am the new owner of a awesome 92 g.t.o twin turbo and absolutely love it but recently i have got a major problem

i moved my seat forward because my amp is behind the drivers seat, and now the seat is stuck as far forward as it can go, i think its a fuse because it happened as soon as i turned my amp off and it will not go at all.

please can someone tell me where the fuse is for the front drivers seat so i can change, and hopefully that is the problem..

THANKYOu oh so much if you can help as i cant drive the car as the seat has stopped t0o far forward....thank you again guys...

May 4-6, 2012

REGISTRATION IS OFFICIALLY OPEN!!! :Dancing:

| East Coast Gathering 2012 |

Be sure to browse around the site a bit, check out some of the pictures from ECG's past!

Sorry that this is a bit delayed this year!! But we have been working feverishly to make sure this ECG is the best!!!

We are offering a discounted pre-paid registration this year! Registration, t-shirts, and the banquet will be more expensive if paid on-site. Pre-paid registration helps us ensure we don't have an extreme over-order, or not enough registration packets, t-shirts, food, etc for everyone. It helps keep costs down, and and helps us keep things running smoothly.

I would like to give a HUGE thank you to Dr.Gonzo, Robyn, Alan and Dan for really stepping up to help us make this run smoothly!!! There would not be an ECG without their help!! Thank you

We have some AWESOME surprises lined up for this year, that I can promise you all will enjoy! I will update on SOME of these once the final details are sorted out

On to the nitty-gritty!


This year, we are BACK at the Sea Bay Hotel! Last year, everything seemed so separated, I think it kept people from hanging out with eachother more.

They had been great to us in the past, their pricing was on-point, they pretty much let us have the run of the place, the parking lot has ample space for all of our cars in close proximity to everyones rooms (for those wanting to keep a close eye on your cars), and it has always provided a great area to hang out, chat, and catch up with old friends.





Tentative Schedule, subject to change:


Friday:
All Day
Check in at Hotel, (I will try to arrange with the hotel to set up a registration table to pick up your packets, t-shirts, itinerary, etc)

Hang out, get to know everyone, relax.

Saturday:

10am-2pm Car Show

Hooters Parking Lot
12207 Coastal Highway
Ocean City, MD21842
410-250-7081


Have a chance to hang out with friends, check out their rides, and cast your vote! Head in to Hooters and grab a bite to eat, and just enjoy the cars!
--------------------------------------

2:15-3pm Boat Launch

Take a nice cruise over to the Boat Launch, an ECG tradition!! Get your pictures taken individually with your car, get some group shots, and get read to head out for the Poker Run!!
-------------------------------------

3pm-5pm Poker Run

Dan and Alan will be taking the reigns, and running the poker run this year!! Grab a card, hop in your car, and try your luck for a special jackpot give-away!!

For those who want to skip the Poker Run, there is plenty else to do in OC! Go Karting, Mini Golf, head over to the amusement park and ride some rides, or just hang out at the boardwalk.... I will have some more details on this shortly, as well as some surprise perks.
-------------------------------------

Tentatively 5:30pm-8pm (location To Be Announced)

Sit tight, cheer on your favorite cars, grab a bite, and take come some killer give-aways from our awesome sponsors!!! And maybe an award or two!
-------------------------------------

8pm-???

PARTY HARDY!!
------------------------------------

Sunday: Check Out & Go Home

Original discussion thread: http://www.3sgto.org/f2/official-east-coas...hread-7856.html

I have a 91 gto. Its a beautiful car, only one thing lets it down,its a clutch problem it has always had. Sometimes it works fine, other times its a real pain. You push the pedal down and you get half the way to the floor of free play and when you do get pressure its really stiff and hard to push down and you can only just change gear. I have tried to fix it over the years but to no avail. I have replaced the clutch and pressure plate, replaced the master and slave cly. Even put a new hyd line in. I am about to replace the booster as a last resort. But im not holding my breath. I have been to many mechanics and all have been left scratching their heads. If after I get the booster done and it still plays up, What is there left to fix.

This unit will allow the conversion from the very restricive stock MAF sensor to the free flowing and accurate GM sensors.

do u think its worth it $200

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanc...MAF_Translators

So two weeks ago at 2:30am I stop at a stop sign and see some smoke rising up from under my hood. I pull into a hotel parking lot, open the hood and see that the smoke is coming from the approximate location of the water pump. So this last weekend me and a buddy put a new one in and a new timing belt as well. I followed Tema3S's walk through http://team3s.com/60k.htm . Everything seems to be running fine now, but I am a bit paranoid since this was the first time either of us has dealt with a timing belt. Is there anything I need to keep an eye out for? If we were off by one tooth would it be a very noticeable thing?

hey guys the car of the talk here is a 96 mitsubishi 3000 gt base...
as yu can read i am having some weird odd electrical issues

when you open the doors or the trunk there are no lights that are coming on or the light in the trunk dont illuminate either..

when yu put the key in the ignition there is no buzzing sound or beeping as all cars do wen yu put the key in the ignition and have the drivers door is open and or head lights are left on etc

radio displays code... i put in the right code and can enjoy the radio...if the car sits for over an hour yu have to put code in again otherwise anything less than an hour the radio is fine

i checked all the fuses and everything looks good...any ideas???

The 3s National Gathering is proud to announce that the 2012 3000GT/Stealth/GTO calendar is now available via our cafepress store. 3S National Gathering

The calendar is available in 3 formats:

The oversized wall calendar. Our high-quality calendar has oversized date boxes providing plenty of room to write in important events. $23.99 + shipping
2012 3000GT / Stealth / GTO 17x11 Wall Calendar > 3S National Gathering
* Each page measures 17" x 11"
* Measures 17" x 22" when hung on wall
* Full bleed dynamic color
* 100 lb cover weight high gloss paper, wire-o bound
* January 2012 - December 2012, 2013 preview, US holidays marked


The wall calendar. Our high-quality calendar is printed on thick 100lb cover weight paper and adds impact to any room. $19.99 + shipping
2012 3000GT / Stealth / GTO 11x9 Wall Calendar > 3S National Gathering
* Each page measures 11" x 8.5"
* Measures 11" x 17" when hung on wall
* Full bleed dynamic color
* 100 lb cover weight high gloss paper, wire-o bound
* January 2012 - December 2012, 2013 preview, US holidays marked

The Calendar Poster. Our high quality one page wall calendars are printed on glossy, 12 point paper and measure 11" x 17". $9.99 + shipping
2012 3000GT/Stealth Calendar poster > 3S National Gathering
* Full bleed dynamic color
* Glossy, 12 point paper

These calendars share the same images

The cover


January


February


March


April


May


June

Hi all, my brother owns a Mitsubishi GTO 3000, V6, 4 wheel drive/4 wheel steer. Japanese import. He needs the service manual ( I suppose like a Haynes or similar)so he can change the cam belt. he is living in The Isle of Man.He has no computer and I am trying to help, any assistance would be much appreciated.

Hello I am Kevin I have a 91 3000gt sl automatic 93,000 miles Replaced timing belt a second time after making the mistake of having Someone else Finish for me when I went through the top end(forgot to tighten the bracket between intake and waterpump). Long story short I replaced the heads after shredding a kevlar belt. I have a borla exhaust, k&n intake, computers have all been rebuilt prior to my purchase of tyhis car, new walboro fuel pump, fuel filter. The problem I am having is after warm up the car runs rough and dies out. If I start and drive it runs while in "cold startup" but cuts out badly once warm. I have checked timing, IAC, fuel, map, I am at a loss, this is my sons car as I have a tt. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I also have no cel's... Kevin

hello guys i have a 96 mitsubishi 3000 gt base and i am experiencing a spongy clutch pedal... at certain stop lights it feels good and at other times it feels real soft so i want to check the slave out... does anyone have any pics to just where its located?? what all do i have to take off to even see where its at to even check it out??

Im just curious how much horsepower and torque does a JDM 6g74 dohc engine have? I swapped a 6g74 jdm dohc engine into my 3000gt sl last week and was just curious how much horsepower does it have.I googled it and found 205hp and 231 torque but dont know if thats correct.205hp sounds a little low for the 674 dohc jdm engine 3.5 litre monster haha

Friday May 6th, Saturday May 7th, and Sunday May 8th are the dates for this year's annual East Coast Gathering in Ocean City, Maryland.

This is the 17th year running, and previous years have yielded over 100 3000GT/Stealths in attendance.

Official itinerary and details of this year are still being hammered out, but will include a car show, awards dinner banquet, poker run, photo shoot, and possible cruise.

Official sponsors this year are Pampena Motorsports http://www.pampenamotorsports.com/ Ground Zero Performance http://www.groundzeroperformance.com/ and Auto Velocity

http://www.autovelocity.net/

Official site is at http://www.autovelocity.net/ecg11/

We are also in the process of designing t-shirts for the event.

Everyone visit the site and register

will a sohc 5speed transmission from a 97 3000gt will bolt on my dohc 6g72 engine? my 3000gt is a 96 with a dohc 5speed transmission

My 6g72 engine is blown so im gunna do a motor swap.I might just swap in the old 6g72 swap or Ive been thinking about the 6g74 engine from a montero.From what I heard is the 6g74 engine is a direct swap its almost identical to the 6g72 engine.Im somewhat new to Mitsubishi so does anyone have any input or ideas?Will the 6g74 engine really swap into the 3000gt without no problems or modifications?All help will be appreciated

I've gone totally synthetic with oil/ grease & favor MOBIL-1. My VR-4 is completely factory stock w/o any mods whatsoever. New rubber consists of YOKOHAMA Advan Neova AD-08s. They track like a LASER, grip like all get out & are fairly noiseless!

234,000K – 95 – NA
Only recent work – oil change

It’s me- I’m back.

On man, I jumped on the highway this morning and when I looked down my oil pressure was 0.

I slowed down and there was all sorts of noise. I killed the engine and glided down the next exit ramp. I started the car again so I could limp into the nearest gas station, which was luckily very close.

$120 for a tow home.

There was oil on the flat bed when he unloaded me at home.

We pushed it in the garage, and I pulled the timing belt covers and front valve covers. The timing marks line up and there is no visible damage on the top front.

I’m not sure if I had reduced power or not – just rattling that made me cringe. Any ideas?


I was planning to drive until around Nov 1st and then do all my maintenance, timing belt and replace the oil pan.

Hello there, fellow earth people!



This is my newly bought '92 Mitsubishi GTO VR-4. This was and is my dream car since I was 13-14 years and played Gran Turismo on Playstation back in the days, I decided then that one day should I buy myself a GTO/3000GT, and finally, here it is!

Currently, it's completely "stock". Future plans are new shocks/coilovers, 19" wheels, performance exhaust, cold air intake, boost pressure adjuster as well as some new paint!
Styling-wise it will be very modest, I love the original look so I'm going to keep close to it. And since this is a Japan imported RHD GTO and not an european/american 3000GT it is extremely rare on this side of the globe and it's actually the only one registred in Norway with license plates!






More pictures coming soon!

does anyone happen to know how many splines does a 1996 3000gt sl transmission,axles have??I have to replace my transmission so I just want to know for sure how many splines do 1996 3000gt sl transmission,axles have before I buy a new transmission.Thanks

Hi, new member here. just got my first gto, its the twin turbo H reg manual. only thing is it has a very bad water leak which i was told is coming from a hose at the back of the engine, my mate jacked it up and tried to find it from both top and bottom but couldnt really see much let alone reach anything. it als has a noisy tensioner so will be getting the timing done too. Does anyone have any information about the hose and maybe some tips or if anyone knows a good place to put it in to get the work done for a reasonable price close to glasgow. any information would be much appreciated as never worked on 1 of these before and choking to get it fixed and out on the road. Cheers

Hi long time no speak. I still have my 96 gto non turbo. I wanna keep the chassis and running gear from my own car but want a TT engine to obviously get more torque from the car. any hints or things i should be careful of? the reason i wanna keep chassis/body/interior and running gear is that i spent £3500 restoring body/interior and a further £2588 on the shaft and rear diff and drives. Any help would be app.
Good 2 see y'all still here!!
ron

will a 6g72 dohc engine from a 1993 3000gt sl work and fit perfectly in my 1996 3000gt sl?? I found a 6g72 dohc engine from a 1993 3000gt sl and just wanted to make sure if it will fit and work perfectly in my 1996 3000gt sl?Will my 1996 3000gt sl motor mounts,harness, axles and etc work and fit perfectly with a 6g72 dohc engine from a 93 3000gt sl?will I have to swap anything from my 1996 6g72 dohc engine onto the 1993 6g72 engine??all help will be appreciated.Thanks

I just bought a 1996 3000gt sl 5speed.The car needed a new radiator,thermostat and complete tune up. I just installed a brand new radiator,thermostat,seals,tubes,antifreeze and full tune up.When I start my 3000gt sl it sounds a bit rough like a rough feeling like its about to shut off,car is stock.Does anyone have a idea of what the problem can be??I cant even drive the car because when I give it gas it sounds like its dying.The day after I bought the 3000gt sl the car drove fine but then after 45 minutes of city driving the car jerk and then didnt wanna move no more.So I pulled over to the side and shut off the car.When I opened the hood a little bit off white smoke came up but then went away.I hope I didnt do damage to the engine.Does anyone have an idea what can be the problem??All help would be very much appreciated

if anyone can help me i need passenger side rear pads, caliper, disc and bearing and also a ball joint for the passenger front side (cheap as poss) thanks 07557769466

My 91 has some very weathered, dull looking stock wheels. A few scratches, but nothing major. The car is pearl white.

Whats your opinion on how to make the car look better without buying wheels?

1) try and polish up the silver color
2) sand / paint satin black
3) sand / paint white
4) ?????

thanks

2012 3000GT / Stealth / GTO calendar submissions

Its that time of year again(ok a bit earlier but I want time to get word out)

Deadline 9/30/2011 (ish)

Submissions need to be as close to 3500 pixels wide and 2300 pixels tall as you can get. Yes that will exclude some older cameras and cell phone pictures. But as always I plan to print them at 17x11 so we need hi-rez. 640x480 is not close.

The submission can not be highly compressed. If you picture is a jpg and its less that 500k don't even bother sending it.



Send submissions to calendar@3sgto.org

I will review all submissions for size and image quality and reply if they are accepted or rejected. I will review submissions in batches so do not worry if it takes a while to get a response. If you submit before 9/15 and do not hear back from be by that date PM me.

So, I just inherited a 1995 3000GT that's been sitting on a driveway for 5 years. My friend said he had absolutely no problems with the car when initially parking it before the 5 years it's been sitting.

I am no mechanic but like to think I'm some sort of a metropolitan man that can do some overall variety of basic things.

I am also trying to eliminate the useless part replacements and trying to find someone that has had a similar problem or experience in this scenario. Any advise would be eternally grateful.

Anyway, I've done the some of the basic things without success and thought someone can shed some light to what I should do without breaking the bank.

Here is the list of things I've done.

1) New battery
2) 2 bottles of water out gas treatment
3) 2 gallons of gas
4) spark plug change
5) added motor oil

Symptoms:

1) Car seems to want to start, but doesn't sound like gas is getting into the valves.
2) Press gas petal but doesn't seem like I feel or hear gas flooding.
3) All dashboard lights come on. Alarm and all electrical parts seems to be working.

I am thinking about changing the fuel filter and oil filter.
Would it be senseless to change the spark plug wires and distributor cap?
And what would be the next step I should do?

I'm at a standstill and am looking for any light at the end of the tunnel.
SO, please any suggestions are more than welcome.

Hi all, my name is Evan, I am 18, and am new to this forum. I currently own a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT and intend on selling it to fund part of my car project. I am interested in doing a car project, rebuild and performance tune for fun and to further my knowledge of autotechnology. After thinking about it I believe I have found the car that I want for my project, a 1995 3000gt. I was hoping this forum, with its expert opinions could help me decide if this a good choice for what I want to do and what it will cost.

This is a future project that I am trying to plan out, and decide what to do. Due to my desire to learn more about autotech, I was thinking it would be a good idea to find a vehicle that was in poor shape that I could buy for $1000-2000 and do all repairs and body work myself, a learning experience.
Here are my questions:

Which trim should I get? I would like the all wheel drive because in New Hampshire and can have some rough winters. I like the idea of a six speed, but it is not required and I am planning on putting a twin turbo in whatever I get.

What condition should I look for? miles, work required, ect.

Would it be an awful idea to find a car in need of a new engine, buy and install a new engine? I feel like a new engine would eliminate the issue of replacing parts in the engine to prepare a non turbo for a turbo.

I don’t have huge a amount to spend on this, but hope to save enough in the coming year to complete it.
I am not an expert in any way, so please bare with my current lack of knowledge on this subject.

Thanks, Evan.

Hi! I love my Mits3000GT, and I've had it for about 9 years now. I recently moved out of state, and it's suddenly falling to pieces! I can't find a good mechanic (yet), so I just have a couple of questions for anybody who really knows these cars and might have some insight for me. It's a beautiful car and is fun to drive, but I wonder what the life span is... it's 12 years old now, after all.

It had a bad trannie when I bought it, so I had that fixed. It needed another one right away. That one lasted a long time, but then last year it needed another relacement. And now, less than 12 months later, it's got a hard downshift and upshift. Got to be replaced (hopefully only fixed!) again. And then a few days ago, I was driving it along just fine and suddenly the power steering was just gone. That has never happened on that car! I went to the auto shop, bought some fluid, and poured it all in, and it made no difference at all. The car is otherwise driving fine, not overheating or anything like that.

It's an automatic. I'm trying to understand why it's gone through so many transmissions... I don't drive crazy or race it, or anything like that. And now the power steering. Are those common problems to the GT's?

I have a couple of basic questions too, if it's OK. I know I'm new here and am not a gearhead... so, if I'm out of line just say so.

1) Some people tell me I should have overdrive on all the time. Others say no, only on the freeway. But I forget to keep changing it back. Is it really that essential? I'm just a normal driver and I use both streets and freeway pretty much equally. Can I just leave overdrive off?

2) How many pounds of air should I have in the tires?

3) How long to do I need to warm the car up before I drive it? (I live in a very warm area, no snow or ice, ever)

Thanks in advance.

MG

I would like to obtain a scale model of my car... a '98 MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR-4 (Glacier Pearl White Metallic). 1/18 & LARGER would be sweet. Actually, something a foot or two long would be awesome! I'm not interested in plastic kits, glue & spray paint unless it's already fully assembled. Having pets, other committments & a serious lack of spare time, prevent that.

So, does anyone have a source for this elusive item?

TIA,

-John

I installed YOKOHAMA ADVAN Neova AD-08s on my 1998 MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR-4 last Summer. You could not ask for better wet/dry traction, controllable/predictable drift capability & LASER like tracking. These are NOT Winter tires by any means & one has to bear that in mind. I'm kind of a fanatic when it comes to maintaining correct tire pressures & routine maintenance. Afterall, it's the rubber that hooks you up with the road & cutting corners is a false economy. These babies really deliver the goods & come highly recommended.

My VR-4 is my all time favorite ride & is only driven for the sheer pleasure of cruising. I'm sure that I'm not alone when I say that I'm disappointed that Mitsubishi no longer offers this sweet machine. The closest thing going is a NISSAN GT-R & those are running $92K MSRP for 2011. That's $92K more than I owe on the VR-4! Unless I win POWERBALL or liquidate a good number of coveted possessions, I doubt I'll be driving one any time soon. Priorities & all are a cruel mistress.

That brings me to my question: should I leave well enough alone, do a few subtle mods for a bit more zip OR go all out with a tuner crazed monster capable of snapping axles with 9 second/ 167mph trap speeds? The car has been utterly reliable & I usually don't fix something unless it's broken. The urge to customize it somewhat is getting to me. Maybe, a nice exhaust rumble from a well tuned system is in order. Just curious... what's the deal with test tubes/test pipes that I see advertised for off-road use? Let's say hypothetically that the car would not be run on the street; can you just splice in a pipe w/o making any other mods? recalibration? I've been told that it's a simple swap & w/o any negative aspects; plug & play.

I see that Dynamic Racing & Maximal Performance offer engine & suspension upgrades. I'm sure that there are others; does anyone have a favorite supplier of components or turn key engines & such?

It seems that low mileage, late model, mint VR-4s are about as rare as 3 legged ballerinas. Would anyone venture to guess what a '98 VR-4 in showroom condition & 7,400 original miles is worth in today's marketplace to an enthusiast?

Thanks in advance. I'll post a few photos of "my precious" in another thread. I recently put fresh rubber on my baby: YOKOHAMA Advan Neova AD-08s. OMG... I LOVE those tires even though they're strictly Performance/Spring-Summer-Fall use ONLY!

I had my '92 Stealth Twin Turbo for 6 years & this '98 VR-4 for 13. For me this is a bit unusual as I had traded off much more frequently in the past. I tend to stick with vehicles that I really like & I've had some real disappointments over the years. I LOVE Japanese engineering & build quality. I also suffer from OCD when it comes to maintenance!

I hear that manufacturers normally stock replacement parts for 10 years after closing out that year's model. As the GTO was produced for a short period later & hoarded in Japan, some parts should be readily accessible, but which ones? Should I have a major failure, is there a sufficient stockpile of odds & ends still available as new components or does one go searching salvage yards for what is statistically a rare car?

I had inquired about getting replacement factory carpeted floor mats with embroidery about 4 years ago & come to find they're history. That got me to thinking about other pieces... like timing belts, Getrag transmissions etc. I've been advised that timing belts & water pumps should be replaced every 5 years OR 60K miles. So, I have to wonder if "shelf-life" plays a roll with regard to belts. Who's to say whether the belt has been sitting for over 5 years on a shelf somewhere? Does that really matter? Apparently tires have a 5 year shelf life & are date coded by law. When we pulled the original YOKOHAMAs off the VR-4, they looked almost brand new inside & out; no drying out, separation, cracking, rot, crumbled rubber... even still had those little sidewall feelers intact. Must be one heck of a compound; I've had new cars delivered with GOODYEARS that were cracked & starting to separate. OK, I'm starting to ramble...

I'm just trying to get a general idea of what I should expect from Mitsubishi Dealership/Service if anything from simple components to an entire engine needed to be replaced on a '98 VR-4. HORROR stories? No PROBLEMO? Pray to the Patron Saint of Timing Belts?

Unless I were to get an offer that I could not refuse, I plan on being buried in my VR-4.

I am a ex Mitsu dealer mechanic from 14 or so years ago. I allways wanted a 3000gt and bought one with a rod knock. I want to build a engine but with twins on the way in a couple months I wont have time right now. I have access to a 1992 stealth with a low milreage engine, will it work? I thought the 92 stealth didnt have a crank sensor but not sure.

I just picked up my 91 3000 from Ground Zero Performance in Easton PA. Hans / Emilie did the 60K service, plus a few other odds and ends. The work was completed on time, and on budget! Emilie even tolerated my "expectant father" status calls!! Thanks for the great service! we'll see you again soon.

Wow, long time no see!

Well, over the years I ended up picking up a 1997 BMW M3, and while I like it, I just don't think its my thing. The car is in almost pristine condition with a decent list of mods, and only 97k miles.

Anyways, Ive come across a 92 VR4 with only 92k miles, and completely stock except for an exhaust. This being my first car forum I ever really used religiously, I know un-molested low mileage vr4's are somewhat of a rare find.

My question is, I want to trade him...but he wants to straight trade, and I feel like I should get money on top. Im just looking for your guys opinions on what you might do if you were in my position, and obviously try to be as unbiased as you can

And of course, pictures of the vr4 in question:







Any opinions are welcomed! Thanks!

Went to change my A/C Gen. belt and found my crank pully spinning free around the rubber piece that seperates it from the middle. I'm thinking this can't be right. The car was working fine just thought it was time for a new belt. Anyone see this before and I'm guessing I need a new pully.

Thanks, CJR

so what's the deal with rebuilding a 91 ECU? Mine is running rough (intermittent) and smooths right out with a replacement ECU.

Is it just usually the capacitors that leak causing the problem? If so, how hard a job is a capacitor swap?

Hello everyone I`m a newbe here so please bare with me.I`m looking to buy a 95 spyder.The owner tells me that the magnets for the rear windows need to be adjusted or reset,does this sound right?I just starting to learn about these cars.Any help wiould be great. Thanks

Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 '92 twin turbo - $3500 (Ringgold, Louisiana)


My loss is definately your gain. This 1992 VR4 is super clean and origional with the exception of an aftermarket c-d mp3 sound system. Last month I purchased this car in Monroe for $7000 cash. (I have all paper work and title from sale) Title clean and clear.
The reason Im getting rid of it is because on my way to work it dropped a rod bearing. I bought new bearings but Im not a mechanic although I read online its a simple fix .. drop the oil pan and the rod is right there. I want to sell this for a down payment on a new car. The car only has 90 thousand miles on it. Honerstly, the car is awesome.. four wheel drive. 180 mph on the dash and as anyone who knows..this year model 1992 VR4 will do it all. Im firm on this price and you will not be disappointed for anyone who knows anything about this car. Its does run.. but knocks so I dont recommend driving it to keep the piston rod in good shape. Bring cash and trailer to put it on and its yours.

cell phone.. text or call: 318-505-6310 or email me at Tonyr75xx@yahoo.com
Tony Reeves

Location: Ringgold, Louisiana

All of the information you need(that we've released) in one place.

What: The 3000GT/Stealth National Gathering is the largest 3S specific event in the world. This is a full auto event not just a car show. We have 3 driving events (Drag Races, Autocross and Road Course), A Car show in a special location(we'll let you know soon). A T-Shirt created for the event. A Special discount rate on hotel . And an awards banquet to top it off. We've also got a huge raffle with prizes from all sponsors and several smaller events like a poker run.

When: June 21 - June 26 2011
Where: Indianapolis, IN - at Lucas Oil Raceway
►
Registration: www.3sng.org/signup11/
Who's coming: http://www.3sng.org/signup11/summary.php

Event Sponsors:
Title - 3SX Performance
Road Course - Morgans Motorsports
AutoCross - (Your company name could go here. Send lori A PM)
Pace Lap at IMS - IPS Motorsports
Drag Race - Maximal Performance
Car Show - Xcellerated Performance Automotive
Banquet - Ground Zero Performance


Gold Sponsors:

Associate Sponsors:


* Race Event times subject to change due to weather conditions

Schedule:
June 21thTuesday

* Event registration and reception at Official Hotel
* Welcome Meeting for Participants

June 22rd Wednesday
* Road Course Event sponsored by Morgans Motorsports
* Event registration and reception at Official Hotel
* Swap Meet in hotel parking lot
* Welcome Meeting for all Participants

June 23th Thursday

* 11am-7pm: AutoCross Event, sponsored by Your name could go here email lori@3sng.org
* Weekender registration at main hotel

June 24th Friday
* Pace lap at Indianapolis Motor Speedway sponsored by Your name could go here email lori@3sng.org
* 6pm-10pm: Drag Race Event at ORP, sponsored by Maximal Performance

June 25th Saturday

* Car Show Event on Monument Circle, sponsored by Xccelerated Performance Automotive
* Banquet sponsored by Ground Zero Peformance


June 26th Sunday

* Have a Safe Trip Home.


Prices:

• Hotel - There are 2 hotels choices, 65$ and 75$ per night.
• Full Registration - $120 (includes T-Shirt, Access to all events, Banquet and Car Show entry). Use if attending Tuesday - Sunday.
• Weekender - $80 (includes T-Shirt, Drag Race Spectator pass, Banquet and Car Show entry). Use if attending Friday - Sunday.
• Guest - $50 (Includes appropriate spectator passes and Banquet)
• Drag Race - $45
• AutoCross - $40
• Road Course - $120
• Extra T-Shirts - $20
• T-Shirt for people not coming to the NG $25(Includes Shipping. Shipped After the NG)

Hotel Information:
Will be provided after you pay.

This will happen two ways.
Automatic: If you pay via paypal and follow the links back toe the NG site.
Manual: Any other payment method or if you paid via paypal and did not get back to the NG site once the payment has been confirmed a verification email will be sent and it will have the information. We will be reviewing paypal payments once each day.