Recommendations for Triton L200 3.2 L Diesel Dual Cab A/T performance chip?

Where can I buy?

Thanks!

I just changed my brake fluid myself on a 2007 L200.

1. Bought 1liter of brake fluid

2. Used a clear tube and syphoned out the old brake fluid from the reservior and topped up with new brake fluid from a sealed bottle i used DOT3

3. Started with the Left rear wheel (RHD model). The bleeder screw is a 8mm

4. Used a silicone tube which is more flexible at the opening of the tube then other tubes, got one with the internal diameter smaller than the bleeder screw. Wiggled it into place so it was snug over the bleeder screw and put the other end in an empty clear plastic bottle and let it reach the bottom of the bottle.

5. Filled the bottle with the old brake fluid from the reservior till it covered the tube. This is to prevent any air being sucked in if anything has to be sucked back in it will be brake fluid and NOT air.

6. Placed the bottle higher than the bleeder valve (rear i placed on the leaf spring and slide the bottle till it wedged againt the chassis to prevent any toppling) (Front i wedged it between the rotor and the brake line)

7. Opened the bleeder valve 1/4 turn and left it for 10seconds, the brake fluid flowed upward and into the bottle and when all the air from the tube was out i began pumping the brake pedal 8 times then topped up the reservior with new brake fluid.

8. As the collection bottle was higher than the bleeder valve any air will want to rise upward naturally there was no chance of air being sucked back into the brake line. If the bottle was on the floor any air will want to rise upward and closer to the bleeder screw, opposite is true if the bottle is higher than the bleeder screw.

9. Closed off the bleeder scew when new fluid began to flow through the tube and did all the other wheels.

10. Front caliper was a 10mm rear was 8mm bleeder screws.

11. Started the van and pumped the brake pedal a few times and took it for a test drive and did some abrupt stops and let the ABS kick in everytime.

No problems since, no soft spongy pedal either. Immediate response from the brake pedal.

Just to let you know that there is also a L200 owners site that will be a useful resource in addition to this forum.

http://www.l200.org.uk/

Introduce truck accessories directory include l200

you can sell and find truck accessories such as l200 at this site
truck accessories directory

does any one know what code p 0191 is on a l200 diesel year mdl 2007 please

HI, I currently have a mitsubishi L200, year 2000. I was wondering if it is normal to shift the automatic transmission
from D to L, and then when you bring up the transmission to D, the transmission does not shift, it keeps up revving
and never changes gear to 2nd or 3rd, not matter how fast you go. What I notice also is that if you shift from
D to 2 while moving, the transmission responds and sets the gear at 2. When you shift back to D, it CHANGES the gear.
when you shift to L, even thou you bring back to D, it remains in L. YOu have to stop the truck, put it in reverse, and then
D, and it goes back to normal.

When you start the truck normal in D, and start to move the truck gradually, the transmission shifts smoothly and without
trouble. My question is, is it normal that when you need to shift from D to L, you have to stop to place it in Reverse for the transmission to start
shifting normal again?

Hi guys... my water pump had been leaking for about 2 weeks. I didn't have time to repair and had to use the ute a few times during that time.
I went to top up the water before using it the other day and I discovered that the radiator fan had just dropped off and was resting against the radiator, belt and all!

Could the leaking waterpump have caused this to happen? Like it seized up or something?

How would I re-attach the fan? Would what ever holds it in be busted or would it be just a matter of bolting it up again somehow?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everybody,

hope somebody can help me / point me in the right direction.

My steering wheel wobbles considerably at a speed of 50mph (80kmph).
Begins slightly at 60kmph and ends at over 100kmph - climax at 80.
Replaced the idler arm bushings - really worn out - helped but not gone.
Balanced the wheels - problem persists.
Replaced the shock absorbers - helped too (were worn out anyway).
Still - very anoying wobble. And it will wear out the idler arm bushings fast too.
Checked the steering ball joints - seem good to me.
Checked the ball joints of wishbones - think they are O.K.
I am no expert - but maybe I have to take out the springs to be sure.
One thought - maybe the previous owner bought cheap brake discs
which were not balanced - could that cause a serious wobble?

Thanks in advance for any help / advice offered.

Michael

Hi everyone
last year my central locking would not work ,when i pressed my key fob it blew a fuse
i have found the problem after 3 hours
there is a small circuit board behind the fuse box on the drivers side
apparently a small amount of water must have leaked into it
does anyone know where to get one
i have tried to contact forum member KiT TeUnG 2549 who was really helpful last time but cannot seem to contact him lately
(hope he is ok) i am in thailand on business soon maybe an option from there
thanks

Hi,
I have a Triton MK MY05 GLS Dual Cab. Recently the cigarette lighter was acting up intermittently & then it stopped working. My good wife required music for a long trip meaning that I needed power for the iPod so a late night search for the fault ensured.

With time limited, I found that I couldn't reach around the back of the lighter without pulling the dash apart. Then I tried undoing the centre console section between the driver & passenger to see if I could get access from below. This entailed first removing the centre storage bin with hinged lid & handbrake cover. Then unscrewing the various screws & unscrewing the knob on 2H / 4H / 4L range level. Although a tight fit, this allowed me to lift the front console section to feel for the rear of the cigarette lighter. To my surprise I could feel that there is a short length of wiring from the lighter going to a 2 pin plug which plugs into the main harness. That plug was undone.

While looking at lighter faults, I found a number of articles of interest. Several stated that corrosion is a common problem. One YouTube video "How to Fix Car Cigarette Lighter" showed a fusible link at the rear of the cigarette lighter. The connection to the wiring goes through this fusible link & then to the cigarette lighter socket contact. Presumably the fusible link is either to prevent drawing too much current or, more likely, to prevent overheating if the cigarette lighter gets stuck in with power on. The video shows a makeshift repair bypassing the fusible link. This suggests that blowing this fusible link may be a possible common fault that may occur with any cigarette lighter socket if too much current is being drawn from the socket.

If anyone has some experience with the electrics of this vehicle or with getting in behind the dash, or has a circuit diagram or manual then I'd appreciate you contacting me.

Had this noise for a few months now on my L200 2.8TDI 2005 import, It does not seem in any way to affect the brakes but concerned now with MOT coming up in July. Had a mobile diagnositics the other day but nothing was confirmed...just suggested Misubishi garage for likley sender unit.Any ideas/suggestions I would appreciate.

How are you ppl........just joined the group to see if someone could help me with a workshop manul for the (Triton in Australia) L200. My problem is that my 4x4 indicator keeps blinking when I'm on 2H. I've replaced the 4x4 indicator switch still not working. I've since discovered that there's no power at the solonoids for the vaccum lines or the fron diff switch. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

G'day all, I have a 2001 MK Trition, 2.8 Diesel ( non turbo ) 4M40 Engine.

Recently the engine is hunting at idle and prior to that on a cold start, it would run very rough untill warmed up.

Any Ideas be appreciated

Doing a Diesel purge is fairly simple process to keep your diesel engine running smoothly and all you need are as follows:

1. Clean container to hold your diesel & cleaner solution or approved solution to use unmixed.
2. Pliers
3. Fuel line approx 2 feet.

For the L200 Sportero (Triton), the fuel lines go from the fuel tank to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter to the engine and
from the engine back to the fuel tank.

By following the fuel line from the fuel filter, the thicker hose goes from the fuel filter down to the chassis.
This is the supply hose from the fuel tank to the fuel filter.

You will notice there are 2 hoses at the chassis (side by side).
1. Goes to the fuel filter (Supply Line)
2. Goes to a metal line at the back of the engine (Return Line to the fuel tank)

Simply use a pliers and disconnect these hoses and place them in a container with the cleaning solution.
I ordered diesel purge (Diesel Spulung) from Liqui Moly because you can use this without mixing with diesel. (100% concentration)
Liqui Moly emailed me a document where the diesel purge was approved for use on Mitsubishi.

Since i have not received my diesel purge i made my own solution, i used Cyclo x6 XT & i mixed it with 600ml of diesel fuel.
I used a hook to keep the container from falling. (Used a mothers car wash container 946ml as my container.)

Primed the fuel filter pump until i saw diesel was returning to the container containing my solution through the return hose. (Essentially you are by-passing the fuel tank)

Started the engine and left it to idle for 5 mins and kept checking to see if the container was moving around.
Once i was confident the container was secure, i revved the engine to 2000 rpm for 10 seconds then to 3000 rpm for 10 seconds, then let it go back to idle.

I repeated this process till almost all the solution was used up.
Switched off the engine and hooked up the lines.

Your done!
Results are:
1. Less noise between 1300 & !800 rpm
2. More power between idle and 2000 rpm
3. No black smoke what so ever. Before i had very little black smoke under hard acceleration (very little no huge black clouds) but you could see
smoke particles at night when another vehicle was driving behind you with lights on. NOW THERE IS NO SMOKE WHAT SO EVER!!

My solution never turned black as in some videos on youtube, i guess that means my pump and lines were clean.
I have to assume the smoke was due to injector spray pattern not being perfect as it was partially clogged.

I am currently doing 113,000km with poor quality diesel in the caribbean (essentially its marine diesel) and never had the injectors removed hence my reason for trying the diesel purge.

As preventitive maintenance i will repeat every 6 months.

I was reading on the Ford ranger forum that the 2.5td often started losing power or struggled to start, whereby one reply came to clean the strainer/filter on the fuel pump as it can get clogged with the fuel filter paper causing the pump to choke and the injectors to 'piss' (sorry) in instead of full atomising spray in turn causing poor ignition/burning of the fuel.

Has anyone checked the L200 fuel pump strainer for the same diagnosis? I wanted to but it looks like a big job as it is difficult to access the inlet to the fuel pump. I have a dead feel on the truck until the turbo kicks in, it never used to be this bad.

hi, been trying to adjust the timing on me 1999 triton , 2.4. i have some info from the auto tech cd, and it says to fit jumper wire to ignition timing adjustment connector and ground ..... then adjust timing,....

where is the required connector , is it thru the obd connector or is it aome where else ?


mark k

Hi, im going to attempt rebuilding my 1995 2.5lt 4d56 turbo, it's a td04-09, i have sourced a rebuild kit just wondering if there are any tips or things to look out for.

cheers.

hi, does any body know how to set the throttle body plate ? for initial setup.
on a 4g64 efi.
there is a screw with a locking nut.

mark k

G'day,
I am looking for a copy of the workshop manual for the 1987 Mitsi L200 ute. Mine has the 2Lt petrol engine. 4WD and 5 speed manual transmission with auto front hubs. I have found a manual but unfortunately it is in Spanish and I cannot read it. TIA

i have a 88 mighty max 5 speed, and a part broke on it but i have no idea what its called so I could try to find a replacement, its a piece that connects to the clutch fork and the cable? its between the transmission and engine, anybody have any idea what this part is called and where i can get one to get my truck going again or maybe somebody on here has a fsm they could share with me? Im a newbie to this truck so any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Hi to all, I'm new to this forum and a proud owner of 2006 L200 Di-D (2007 model), double cab, instyle.

I have one problem that apeered 2 days ago. Outside temperature is app. -10degree C, and when i start the truck, it goes on with no problem, but it rev's up to arround 2-2,5k rpm for a couple seconds, than back to normal 750rpm. After that everything works normal.

This happened two times till now. I realy don't want a blown engine so, does anyone know what is wrong with the truck?

Hi,
I bought a brand new 10 plate L200 Warrior in March 10 and have been having lots of problems with it. The main two are that it needed a new gearbox after 18 months old (it has never been off road) and now the drivers airbag warning light keeps coming on. It has been in 6 times to be repaired/reset and I have now told Mitsubishi if it goes again they are having it back. Anyone have a similar problem, or knows what it could be? The passengers pre tensioner has been swapped as has the complete wiring loom. They promised to swap the clock spring but never did. I could appreciate some help with this one.

Thanks in advance.

Have recently put a Sony Head Unit in my 2008 L200 but i am not getting any sound through front speakers? (rear only)

Any ideas would be great.

Best Wishes
Steve

Hello all this is my first post

I have recently purchased a 2008 L200 and wanted to know how to access the Front door speakers if any one can give me a bit of advice.

Best Wishes
Steve

Hi all. New to forum. New to Mitsubishi ownership ( which I know I'll discuss at a later date ).

Quick question first up.......my brother has given me a 1991 Mits Triton 2.6L 2wd with the 4G54 4cyl petrol engine.
Just wondering where the engine coolant temp sensor is. Have looked everywhere and cannot find it. Nothing near the water pump or thermostat ( except a grub screw in the housing underneath ) ????
Guage doesn't work and thought it would just be a dud sensor but cannot for the life of me find it anywhere. Any pointers appreciated.

Martin

Hi, First time on thi site so not sure if this is the right place to ask. Where can I find a second hand soft tonneau for 1999 single cab hookside l200? ebay etc. seem to only have relativlly expensive new ones. Thanks Duncan.

I've managed to put a lovely deep scratch on the plastic around the gear shift (not the part immediately around the gear shift, but the silver plastic piece around that that includes the ash tray). Can post a pic if needed.
I'm confident that i can repaint it 100%, but I simply can't see how to get the piece out, and I don't want to force anything for fear of breaking it.

It's a new shape L200 Barbarian.

Any advice on how to get this piece out would be greatly appreciated, cheers.

Hi, another newbie from Scotland, UK.

I have a 2006 L200 new shape warrior diesel. two days ago i had a sudden loss in power and the engine management light along with the anti skid light came on and the car goes into crawler mode. When i switch off the ignition the anti skid light goes off but the management light stays on. The car will drive ok at this point.

I took it to mitsabushi and they put it on the machine, it came up with a fault code of P1272 pressure limiter malfunction. It seems to happen about every ten miles or so. I have changed out the fuel filter and have just added some diesel cleaner to the fuel to see if this clears out any carbon build up.

The dealer cant fit me in for 3 weeks so im trying to have a go myself. I am a diesel mechanic but not up to speed with new tech .

Any ideas ?.

ATB
Adam

I just placed a 92 mighty max back on the road after a partial restoration. The truck has been sitting for four years. It fired right up and runs fine but I have a bunch of little things that need to be corrected. The first two I'd like to tackle are the Code 42 and the maint required indicator reset light.

The truck idles unevenly upon cold start (alternated between high and low idle). Once it warms up it runs fine but the idle is consistently high and does not return to normal RPMs.
The Check engine light is on and the code (checked with voltmeter) stored is code 42, fuel pump. How likely is it that a fuel pump problem is causing the high idle? Delivering too much fuel or delivering it too fast? I don't recall ever seeing this before. Does anybody have any thoughts on code 42 or 2.4 liter high idle issues in general?

My allData subscription says the Maint Required indicator reset light is on the rear of the instrument cluster just below and to the left or right of the speedo cable junction. I cannot find it, even with an inspection mirror. Anyone have any tips on locating the reset switch?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions offered. i appreciate your time.

Hi - can anyone tell me where the passenger compartment fuse box is located in a 2005 L200? The Diagram in the Owners Manual is useless! Thx, john

Hi there, new to the forum and new to the world of L200.
Got one (57 plate Diamond) at the weekend to use for domestic use.
Love it so far but have a question about the sat nav.

When using the screen (mp8000 I think it's called), I get the nav screen and it asks me to read and agree to a statement about road safety. However when I try to press the Agree button it just moves the screen a bit, in fact anywhere I press on the screen at this point (unless it's moving to the other functions (info etc.)) makes the screen just move a bit.

I came to the conclusion that perhaps there wasn't a satnav DVD in there.

It took me about 2 hours to find the DVD player which is underneath the passenger seat!! When I flipped up the lip, I expected (as per the manual) for a DVD to be ejected. It wasn't. The DVD disc I have is for Europe, so I tried to insert it but nothing, it was as though the DVD slot was closed.

Have I got a faulty unit or am I being completely stupid??

What do you guys think?
Just having a General look around the engine bay and starting the service documentary on the new Ute.
Saw this and thought that it couldn't be normal?

[attachment=15233:IMAG0109.jpg]
[attachment=15234:IMAG0110.jpg]

hi all i hope you can help ive just bought a l200 warrior 52 plate and its got a rattle coming from the gearbox (ithink) when i press the clutch it stops please help it sounds really bad and i think its getting worse thanks in advance ,mark

Hi,
I'm having some problems that I can't seem to just identify? I've read the forum posts regarding similair issues but i'm either non the wiser or perhaps i can't accept some of the answers, any help or pointers would really be much appreciated!

I have a L200 - Single Cab 1998 2.5 TD

I have a full service history and carry out regular maintanence. (i.e oil change every 5000 miles or so)

When I bought the truck i was told that it had just had a new fuel pump fitted. This is why some of the posts have confused me?!?

The truck has a start up problem, this begun around July (this year). I decided to get some advice and as a result of this advice I changed the Glow Plugs. The problem seemed to cure but now the cold weather is setting in again it has started again.

I have decided to change the plugs yet again, but the problem has not cured this time and the starting is getting gradually worse and worse.

So much so the plume of black smoke is nearly killing my mother in her bed room!

Joking apart, this issue is has cost me over £500 so far, having new plugs and full service on top of my normal maintanence.

The symptoms are as follows:

start one - turns over - no start
start two - turns over - no start
etc, etc , etc

if frosty, then its straight to the jump leads even though new batt, starter and alternator are new!

Start six - fires and sounds like a tug boat with a big plume of black smoke.. then runs fine all day long!

from the info I have read it could be any of the following
fuel pump causing lack of compression?
pump seal?
cellanoid govner?

Any help would be much appreciated

Dave

Hi all,

I've got an L200 KB4T (4D56) pickup , which got front ended then repaired.The main Fuse from my alternator keeps popping ...i have checked all the wiring for shorts but to no avail.

I am desperately seeking a workshop manual for this vehicle to solve my charging system issue...this happens to be the only issue keeping this pickup off the road.

Someone please help ?

Ok, can anyone tell me if the Differentials are the same in Early Triton MJ 4X4 s and the L300 Starwagon 4x4?
Failing this where will I find a site that has the Specs for a 1994 Triton turbo diesel?

Hi guys, new to this forum. Bought a Raging Bull a month ago and am looking to upgrade the stereo to one which will deal with mp3/ipod as an auxilliary. Anyone enlighten me on what similar models they may be using or know to be compatible? Thanks in anticipation.

I have a '87 Mighty max - Nothing special.. 2.0, 3sp Auto, RWD, Zero gonads. It needs a bit of work but for the most part its a pretty neat truck.

My problem is that I'm getting around 19MPG out of the thing. Is this a normal thing for these Carb'd pickups? it seems pretty low for simple 4 banger..

I've also noticed that it is hard to start.. sometimes after 4 or 5 cranks over and over, while pumping - I've tossed it off to the mechanical fuel pump (yea.. its mechanical). I also noticed that while having to pump it, i can really smell the fuel dripping off the engine. Is that why its hard to start because its getting too much fuel? I suck when it comes to carb's.. any help would be awesome.



-Justin

There are many problems with my '94 Might Max. It's a 5 speed manual, and the engine burns oil. I also need a new belt, but I found that. There are some other minor problems(radio, A/C). Any advice?

Hi
can anyone tell me if i need to have my replacement fuel pump coded to my pickup, i have changed the little electronics box on top of the pump to the one that was on, fuel to the pump. but nothing at injectors.
be greatful of any advice
thanks
jason

2.5td 4d56 05 plate.
Has anybody had the problem of the engine jerks when at a constant throttle no matter what gear you are in but if you let off or accelerate it goes away & can be driven around.

Hi
i am new to the forum, i have a strange problem, i have had an L200 04 plate 2.5 TD for 6 months, its been great, my wife has a warrior L200 also, but mine started to stutter when cruising at 60mph or so, like a random misfire, slowly this problem has got worse, so that now, it is fine for 5 or so miles from cold, a little low on power but not bad, but after that it starts to produce unburnt fuel smoke (white/ grey, not steam) when every you hold any speed, sometimes it quiet bad and appears to get worse throught the day, it once knocked badly on starting but has never sone it again.
i have changed fuel filters, checked tank pickup, blown fuel line throw. check Pump timing and cam belt, all this is fine, oil and water are fine, head gasket is ok, it rocks on tickover when warm, i am sure its either over fuelling or the ignition timing is out, i dont really want to send it to the garage as i am a mechanic, or was, but its driving me mad, lol
can anyone shed some light on this, oh i have had the engine light on twice but went off quickly.
thanks in advance, and fingers crossed
jason

Hi,

I just collected my M/Triton and there is this sound comes each time I released the excelerator..some sort of loose part thing sound and as per Mitsubishi sales manager, this is normal with the Triton model. Please advise of yours have got the same norm.

What is the difference between the 4D56 head & the 4D56T head & would they be interchangeable? both with flush fitting valves.
The T version seems to be listed up to 2003 & the other one up to 2006 for some reason & my L200 seatbelt is showing mine as a 2004 model on an 05 plate.

I have a 2008 l200 2.5 turbo diesel, and want to change the oil filter myself, If someone can give me some directions to doi it, I be grateful.
Thanks

Hey All,

I am contemplating (procrastinating) about converting my 2004 Mitsubishi Triton 4x4 ute to an Electric Vehicle (EV). Changing the power plant in my Triton from an Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) to an electric motor will be seen as a challenge to some and maybe objectionable to others, so, anyone up for the challenge of answering some weird questions? Due to the reasons of my questions, I suspect many of them will have never been asked on the forum.

I know it's heavy for an EV, but the plan is to have an on-board range extender (power generator) for trips over about 90km so I can keep the battery pack down to a size I can afford. As time moves on, I can simply change the range extender to the next technology without having to change the vehicle itself.

It will be very interesting to find out how much off road performance will be enhanced by having full torque available from zero rpm. I expect it will be like having a very low 1st gear.

A major concern I have, is related to the CAN-BUS (MUT-3) system and what I will break when I remove the ICE, in particular such things like the affect on the airbags.

Does anyone have any experience and/or advise on issues such as:
* Will the airbags work (do I have to provide alternative voltage or signal for arming or activation
* will I have to provide a voltage or signal to replace the missing O2 sensor so that the engine fault light doesn't stay on.
* same as above for the oil light, etc

An auto electrician advised me that the MK Triton doesn't use drive by wire, as the can-bus isn't in use, but this doesn't say anything for other sensors as mentioned above.

Regards,
Brad

30-083
LED Extra Tail Light
-Precision design reveals the essence of sporty elegance
-Add greater visibility at night
-Super bright LED for brake and rear position lights
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hey guys, is there supposed to be a filter for the a/c unit on the 2007 triton? because the ones shipped here to the Philippines do not have any filters on them, well for the 2.5 variants that is.

if anyone has any pictures for the a/c filter and where it is located please let me know, because i want to install a filter on mine to minimize on the evaporator cleaning since it costs 2 arms and a leg to get it done here, plus it takes a ridiculous long time.

thanks everyone!!!


arvin