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Hey guys, so recently my turbo went, so the other day i was taking it out to replace it and noticed my turbo manifold looks like shit! i have been looking around for a new one to put in but i dont know what companies can be trusted, all i have been finding is OBX bs.. so what are some good companies that make manifolds? Please keep in mind this car is a DD and not being set to race or go on a track so i not need anything crazy. Heres a pic of the junk i have on now lol.
Hello I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder with the 2.0 non turbo, I bought it used in good shape but it has manual mirrors and the trim is broken on both sides. My question is, even though its manual mirrors does it have the electrical wiring for power windows in the car or does it need a special wiring harness? Would be satisfied if I could find replacement manual mirror interior trims, but they seem to be very rare. If it has the wiring already in the car I would purchase the mirrors and switch to upgrade mine, but need to know if the wiring is there first or not or if theres an aftermarket wiring kit that can be purchased to do such a project. Thanks.
Hello. My name is Sonja and I am a very unhappy 1998 Eclipse GS (manual) owner. Long story short it feels like I own Stephen Kings "Christine". You name it, it broke. I spent like 5k in the last 9 months (that's how long I have it!) to keep it alive/on the road. Since day one owning this vehicle nothing but trouble/drama/ chaos. I needed to call the tow truck 5 times in 9 months. Just to name a few, I had 4 fire hazards removed b/c the former owner didn't have any clue how to wire things right, new radiator, new brake pads, all new radiator hoses, throw out bearing done (transmission clutch kit), replaced both racing struts in the front with the original ones, a/c power steering pulley bearing replaced, ball joint front, serpentine belt new, brand new battery, timing belt and water pump new. Last horrible thing lately happened to me the timing belt snapped while driving. Although the shop said I was real lucky, I didn't killed the engine, as a result now the engine knocks. Besides that I replaced almost everything you can replace. Thank goodness I got warranty on the clutch kit because even tho it was repaired back in April I have the same issue again, it's grinding bad when it's cold so it goes back where it was fixed next week. Still have issues with the 2nd gear when it's cold. There is some coolant leak somewhere and a squeeky belt which I think is the serpentine belt which is new so yeah I get those two things fixed. On top of the $1.900 I paid for it like I said I spent around 5k and it's as good as dead now. Looks like this is the end of the road right here. Can't afford anymore to getting stuff fixed constantly. Can't junk it without losing all my money. Can't sell it without screwing someone over and still losing almost all the money I invested which I don't. Can't drive it either. My mechanic now said drive it til the engine dies which gives us some time to look for a used new one. The engine is the biggest problem now besides other small ones I would still have to take care of such as the hydraulic for the trunk (lift support struts) isn't working, rear windshield wiper just works when it wants to, rear window does not defrost only three out of I don't know how many wires defrost (guess b/c all windows are tinted?) oil leak somewhere, trans fluid leak somewhere else and so on. Very frustrated and unhappy because basically I like my car. At least it looks neat as long as it's parked.
Hey guys, I finally got a clutch after putting a new pedal assembly in..Now I need help trying to straighten my steering wheel.. I put my wheels straight and put the steering column on and put the wheel where it's supposed to be and drove it around the block to test everything and the bottom of my steering wheel is at 8 o'clock..How do I put it at 6 o'clock without tearing off the steering column again??
I have a 98 GS-T i picked up 2 months ago and i have been having an issue with it since i got it and not sure what it is. The issue is i can not floor the car.. after pressing the peddle about half way it bogs out or starts a kind of back firing where it will not gain power/go faster almost as if it is topping out.. my fule/air ratio will stay solid on rich.. How ever if i only hit the gas about a quarter of the way.. at most.. the car will accl. fine, the turbo kicks in nice and theres no issues.. but i can not floor it... the first link is a video of my just lightly stepping on the gas and shifting as i normally do... the second is me going heavy on the gas.. its hard to hear but it bogs/bucks as i was talking about and you can see on my fuel/air meter its staying on the rich side.. does anyone have any ideas?.. i have checked the plugs and wires and they seem clean... i have a BOV and i have removed it and put the oem setup back on and it still seems to be the same... the air filter seems a little dirty but not sure if that is really causing all of this... Oh and side note.. right after the second video was taking where it bogs.. my check eng. light went on and the car will ride rough in any gear till i stop at like a light then start acceling normally again
Hello Everyone,,I took my car to get the oil changed and when it was don, they tried to back it out; clutch went to the floor. they put a new slave cyl in and bled it. NO PEDAL. got it towed home and I put in a new master cly and also another slave and bled the heck and NO PEDAL. Then thought the clutch and pressure plate went out, so I put in a new clutch kit and still NO PEDAL. Then I shimmed up the pivot ball and still NO PEDAL. Is there something that I'm missing???I've tried looking for some posts and haven't found anything..Anyone have any idea what the problem could be???Thanks in advance
Hey whats going on guys/girls.. i just signed up to the forums and figured i would say hey..
From Brooklyn.NY and just picked up my first forced induction/import car so im new to all this modding crap lol
I have a 98 Eclipse GS-T .. very lightly modded if you could call it that.. BOV, Exhaust, Turbo timer.. everything i bought the car with so im not even sure what BOV or Exhaust is on it. So if anyone has any tips or advice on this car or what i should do please let me know.. im not looking to take it to a track or go all Tokyo drift on it but Dont wana keep it stock either.
I've put a new pressure plate,disc,tob,pivot ball and fork and 2 slave cylinders and 2 clutch master cylinders on my 91 eclipse. I've power bleed the system with 5 quarts of brake fluid and still have 3 inches of play.Can anybody tell me what else could be the problem???I can't get no more adjustment out of the pushrod on the mastercylinder..I'm wondering if the problem could be in the pedal itself???Has anybody had the same problem? If so, is there a site or instructions on how to replace the pedal linkage...
My Eclipse is currently not running, and I've exhausted the majority of my resources trying to figure out why, and how to fix it.
Here's the story:
I bought the car from someone in the States in 2007, and drove it up to Edmonton, Alberta where I was living at the time. At this point the car was running perfectly well - no problems whatsoever.
Then I got in a minor accident - I went partially under the rear bumper of a truck, and bent up my hood, rad support, and broke the headlights. The car was still running, but it had to be taken off the road. I had previously made plans to leave town and attend a school in Vancouver, BC, and ended up leaving the car behind when I did so. It sat in its crashed condition in a storage lot for about 8 months.
After that I went back to Edmonton to pick it up, and brought it down to an auto body shop to have the necessary repairs done. They replaced the rad support, radiator, head lights, front bumper, and one of the fenders. The stereo was also torn out (stolen) during this time. The car was then started for the first time in over a year, and still ran, but not so well. It stalled out regularly, and wouldn't rev up properly. I think it was only reaching 3000 rpm at this point.
Because I was busy (and broke) with school, it ended up sitting in my garage, only occasionally being started up for several years. There was one occasion when I tried to drive the thing around the block, but I could barely get it up past 1500 rpm, and almost ended up pushing it back to my house. Again, it sat. I asked friends for their opinions on the matter, but no one seemed to have any ideas as to what was and wasn't wrong with it.
Finally, I had the car towed to a mechanic in 2014. He ran compression checks, made sure all the fuses were good, replaced the old gas, tested the fuel injectors, etc, etc. The conclusion he came to was that the ECU was likely the issue, because the fuel injectors were firing when manually actuated, but not on their own. He said a new ECU would probably cost me more money than I want to spend given the risk that it may still not work, and recommended I sell the car off. Okay, fair enough, but nobody wants a partially imported, broken down tuner car...
When I got the car home it was still starting, but mostly just idling, and not even very well. I took the ECU out, spent some time trying to obtain a used one from a wrecker, and after being met with continuous failure, decided to put it back in. I tried to start the car, and now it didn't want to start at all. It turned over, but didn't start. The ECU was also making a rather loud humming noise that I'd never noticed before, and that pretty well had me convinced that the mechanic must have been right. I then ordered a new ECU online, which I just got it in last week.
Now, the refurbished ECU I got came with a bunch of warnings about making sure my electrical checks out before plugging it in - that if something made the old ECU go, it could just as easily blow the new one. A friend and I therefore decided to plug the old one back in again first, and see what we could see. He brought over his OBD2 reader, which gave us no codes on the old computer, and we also checked the IAC, which we heard could cause problems with the ECU. We plugged in a fresher car battery as well, just to see if the engine wasn't getting enough juice. None of this went anywhere, so we decided (after running a couple of electrical checks) to plug the new ECU in and see if that did it. It didn't. The only difference was that the ECU was now much quietler. Other than that the car still turns over, but doesn't start, which is odd because when I originally found out that the ECU was likely an issue the car was still at least starting, and the only thing that changed from that point until now is the fact that I took the ECU out for 4 or 5 months.
One of the things we noticed when trying to turn the car over is that afterwards the spark plugs were still pretty dry, so fuel injection and congealed fuel are both issues on my list of considerations. The problem is, the car's been sitting for so long it kind of feels like anything could be wrong with it, and I'm not sure where to look first. I was hoping, based on all this information, that someone here could give me a little direction. What do you guys think?
recently, i got a 1991 eclipse 1.8 for free as a gift. the car has been sitting for about 9 years without being moved. when the guy who gave the car to me parked it, it was still running. he stopped driving the car because the struts had gone out and it was hard for him to keep control of the car (he's and old guy and the car didn't come with power steering) anyone have any tips on what i could do to get this car started again? ive got a new battery and a fuel filter for it. what could go bad over time that might need replacement? ive got it to start once with starter fluid, but im looking to use it as a daily driver soon.
Hey guys I'm new to this forum, I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a 4g64 engine, I had bought this car recently and it's not very popular in my country, and where I live it's hard to transport the car to the company to check it, Im having an issue with the maf system, when I remove the maf the car at idle state is stable but doesn't have the power to move and the rpm doesn't go above 2000, when I plug in the maf the car rpm drops to 500-300 then goes dead, I already replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the injection system, checked all the electrical wires, checked for post air leakage.. I think the issue is the maf is not for the car but u can't b so sure since I don't know what's the serial number of the maf, thus please if any one could provide me any serial number of the maf or any tip to do I'd b thankful.
I have a 1998 GST Spyder Eclipse. About 2 months ago I started having starting problems. I got in it one day and all it would do is sing. I've never had a starting problem outside of a bad battery and that's not the case this time. After 2 or 3 tries it finally started,drove it for a month with no problems then it started the problem again,singing and won't start. Finally got it started and drove home went out to the garage the next day and it will not start up, just sings. I haven't checked anything but was told it might be the Crankcase sensor. I have 79,000 miles on it. How hard is it to change the sensor and is there a test i can perform to check it? Thanks!!
Sometimes while driving my car will just lose power and shut down. It doesnt shudder or shake and no check engine light comes on, it just turns off, I pull over and turn the key off and it starts right back up. And sometimes it has trouble starting. It runs great other than that. Any ideas?
So glad to be back!!! And this time I mean business like a hit man trying to get paid!
OK, some of you may remember me some not either way it's all good. I am looking for an ITB that will mate like a love bug to my 420A or a shop that can fabricate one from scratch.
Has anyone been successful since my hiatus to install one?
I forgot to check the clearance anyone know how much room I have to work with and should I just buy a stand alone for better tuning or stick with what I have?
Money shall only be a word in my book since I have moved away from my last employers that tried to stick me like a hog on a pit!
I would like to be the first if no one has tried it and then next year I may buy the 2015-16 eclipse if it should hit the showrooms that I have read about in the meantime I got: plans for my baby and I am so happy to: finally get the cash to get started on my project.
I need some help diagnosing an A/C problem in my son's car. Vehicle info: 1998 Eclipse Spyder Convertable 2.0 Liter Turbo Auto trans
A/C would work on start up, but soon quit and wouldn't come back on. Found low side going into a vacuum. Replaced expansion valve and dryer. A/C works fine at first, pressures normal and cools very well. However, after a short time (10-15 minutes) it cuts off (as if cycling) and will not come back on. I tried turning it off for a while and then turning back on. No good. tried swapping relays, again no good. If you shut the car off and let it sit for approx 20 minutes, on restart A/C comes on and works fine. But again, after a little while it cuts off and never comes back on. Has anybody ever run into anything like this before? Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello I have a 5 speed 1997 mitsubishi eclipse GS and when not in gear the RPM needle will not go below 2000RPM (while moving but not accelerating). Yesterday the temperature gauge also got near the hot level so I shut the car off for a few minutes and had difficulty starting it up again. The first time I tried to start it up again I believe some coolant smoke was coming from the hood. After a few more tries it started again (I had to keep my foot down on the clutch for a while). Can you please advise me what I might be experiencing here?
I posted this on a different section of the forum, might not be the best place for it. I copied and pasted my original post. Could really use some feedback.
First off Hello to everyone. New to this site. I apologize if this is in the wrong section, seems like it belongs here. If not please advise.
1996 eclipse GS non turbo, auto trans, no mods, all stock.
At 1300 to 1400 rpms car lunges. Wants to stall out. Its died once or twice. Once I get past that 1400 range it drives like a champ. No check engine light on.
I removed egr valve, cleaned it up real good, replaced gaskets, it is working. I can see the plunger move in and out when the throttle is applied. Throttle body was removed and cleaned up as well, replaced gasket.
Car idles fine, not jumping around at all.
I cannot make vehicle hold at the 1300 to 1400 rpms using my foot. It will shoot up to 2000 or higher. (engine warmed up) If I unplug the Iac I can hold whatever rpm I want.
Of course if I unplug the TPS it goes nuts.
I am thinking to replace the iac, even though I had it out and cleaned up and it checked out good with my multimeter. Ohms checking at 47 at pins 1 and 4 and at 2 and 3. I was thinking maybe the spring has gotten weak or something....
The vehicle will drive crappy at low speeds with the iac connected AND with it connected. When I unplug the iac with the engine running I don't hear much of a difference if any at all. Does this sound rational to anyone else?
I don't have any vacuum leaks. I have checked and check and sprayed every vacuum line I can find.
I could really use some input before I go out and just throw $$ at it.
Ive posted about this in another eclipse forum but Im not getting any input.
Thank in advance gentlemen. I appreciate any help and I will also throw in my 2cents worth when I can.
hey everyone I'm building a 1999 eclipse gsx she's fully stock besides have a big 16g turbo it has the 4g63 motor....I need the upgrade my manifold n turbo gasket any brand I should go with and do they a kit for it? I'm upgrade this first because the stock manifold is cracked thanks for the help
2 days ago I noticed it wouldnt shift into 2nd. Then yesterday it worked fine, but when I was coming off the interstate, it wouldn't shift into second, then 4th. I noticed as I was trying to back out of the parking stall that reverse wont work either. 1st, 3rd and 5th work just fine, it feels like 2nd, 4th and reverse just arent there anymore. The stick goes back to the neutral position but it feels like the 2nd, 4th and reverse just arent there. Ive had this car since it was new and its been a great car, I want to get this fixed.
A friend told me its probably the linkage. Where do I look to inspect/fix the linkage?
So I am new the mitsubishi game . I'm in the process of gettinga 96 eclipse spyder, the car runs great,but the only ththinthat kinda has me sctched about it . Is that when pushing in the clutch it takes a lot of pressure to push it in past the mid way point. I want to know if that is normal of this kind of car or should I be worried about it? The clutch has just been replaced recently. If that info helps any.
My sons 99 GS has thrown a few codes: Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
P1767 & P0700 which are related codes: I am looking to start with the simple stuff so I want to change the EATX Relay. I can not find this relay anywhere online - the part # I got off the relay itself is this 04687146A 68832 2308. Is this a special relay? Is there any trick to changing it out? I removed the bracket with all three relays on it and it looks like it is clipped on somehow.
P0551 - Power steering pressure sensor switch. Not sure how to fix this? I pulled the hose off the unit and cleaned it up a bit as it looked dirty, the hose also has a bit of a kink in it so maybe that is what is causing the code to be thrown.
P0141 - Not really worried about this one yet as it is the rear O2 sensor.
Car seems to run fine but these codes keep popping up and I want to make them go away.
Hello All! I have resurrected a nice 94 eclipse 1.8 non turbo for my daughter's first car. The car sat for 10 years in my garage, ready for paint. It's super clean and now has a sweet paint job (factory paint rep here). I've changed the tank, pump, lines, timing belt, belts, hoses, filters, O2 sensor, Air Flow meter, PCV valve, installed a bi-pass test pipe in place of converter. I'm running NGK Plugs and the burn appears fine. The car smells like it's rich (very light trace of tailpipe smoke), but it's shutting down power, or stumbling on acceleration. When this happens, sometimes you can clear it up by flooring the accelerator for a bit, but sometimes, it simply bucks, looses power, stutters and shuts down. If I stop and turn off the key, then I can start it right back up and am able to take off like a bat-outta-hell again. I'm going nuckin-futts here and really need your advise and expertise. It's my daughter, guys... so I don't really want to, and know it's somewhat pointless to, do anything but drive this little 1.8 as it was designed. 27 MPG isn't bad, ya know!
ANY Help and advise is greatly appreciated.
(when I changed the air flow meter, the car ran fine for about a month, then it's back to being a problem again. )
So i just installed new spark plugs the other day and I am able to startup my car once or twice fine in the same day but wen I try a third time itll startup for about 3 seconds while having the engine hiccuping and stall. After this it will continually do the hiccuping and stall. What should I do?
So I was checking fluids and never even noticed this little thing but what gos in it? Tryed looking up some engine bay diagrams for my specific car and cant figure out what it is. I have almost none left (Looking from the front of the car toward the right side from my perspective)
Hi guys, I'm new to these forums and I feel like this would be a great place to learn about my car from the community's feedback.
My question here today is: what trim (or model) is my car?
*The back end of the car does not display the model type (rs, gs, gs-t, gsx) and so I took a few minutes to inspect elements that were relevant to a trim.
1. My car DOES NOT have turbo or the spoiler (or wing) that is elevated like the gs-t and gsx models so therefore it must be either rs or gs.
2. I looked at the owner's manual and the first thing it says is: "thank you for purchasing the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse, or Eclipse Spyder"
3. As far as I know, the Spyder is only associated with the gs and gs-t, however I also know that the spyders have convertible tops on them and a 2.4L engine. Instead, I have a hardtop with a sunroof on it and a 2.0L DOHC engine.
So any idea of which model it is? thanks a lot guys!
My top is not consistent in coming back up. I can hear it clicking in the back, but it takes three or four time of bushing the button before it starts back up. Has anyone else experienced this problem and how did you fix it?
I have a 1997 Eclipse Spyder that I am lowering, I am installing KYB struts, with Tein S. lowering springs (Front: 1.3” Rear: 1.3”) and GODSPEED Sway Bars. I have 18” rims with 225/40/18’s on now. Does anyone know if I can put 225/45/18’swithout rubbing?
I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gs Non turbo 2.0 16V Problem: Not Getting recharge power from Alt. to Battery , Fuses good, no open ground, Alt is New, Brain Is new 12.04 Volts running , what can i do to jump power to battery
well im trying to buy a ECM for my 98 eclipse the one i bought of autozone doesnt fit. after researching it turns out 98 eclipse with a 2.0 L DOHC non turbo has a dodge motor they came like that ? and for some reason i cannot find a replacement for my computer. the P/N number is 9833AH. please any one help ive tried all scrap yards/junk yards used auto parts in inland empire area in CA. no luck been like this for 2 weeks now.... Any one have any suggestions ? much appreciated
I have a 97 spyder with the 2.4 and just had the head rebuilt and a new timing belt put on. Now, My power steering and alt belt keep popping off. I know my engine mount needs to be replaced soon but I don't see how that would affect the belts. My ac belt tore up bc I need a new pulley but I can't understand why the other 2 belts don't wanna stay on. Any suggestions would be great. I'm going nuts not being able to trust driving the car with the belts the way they are acting.
first of all i cant afford a new turbo so i would like to know if anyone knows where i could find a turbo rebuilt kit for my stock turbo..
also i want to upgrade to a better but cheap exhaust manifold..i have a low budge.. while were talking about this i want to use a wastegate but i have no idea how to install one to a stock turbo what parts do i need besides the wasegate...
i seen pics where people fabricate a exhaust pipe that exits on the front bumper. but still keeps the regular exaust i thinks its called a dump pipe
now how can improve my spark is there a way to replace my coilpacks for better ones.
and what are the best sparkplugs to use on a turbo engine (i want to use iridium plugs) but i'm opened to suggestions..i read somewhere that it si possible to use coilpacks from and intrepid the are called (pigtails) i believe anyways
I had all my motor mounts replaced a year and half ago and just found that they need to be replaced again (you can visually see cracks). I have 97GST that is lowered 1.5, cambir kit installed, eibach springs, 18" wheels on it - any idea of what could be causing this to happen again already?
Im looking for a blow-off valve for my 99 eclipse gst, but the dealer wants $140 for one. On ebay there are several for $30 to $50 but they all seem to be custom fit ones that would require cutting and welding. Id really like a standard bolt on one that is designed to fit. I bought my eclipse new back in 1999, I dont race it, its pretty much stock. Does anyone have any suggestions where i can find an affordable blow off valve that I can simply bolt on? Doesnt need to be fancy, just equivalent to the stock one. Thanks!
I have a 99 eclipse gs-t. The engine likes to idle very high, at like 2000rpm, sometimes up to 2700rpms when the engine is hot. This ONLY happens in the summer months, when its warm or hot outside. It doesn't do it when i start my car for the day, but only when ive driven it around, shut it off for a bit to go in a store, then started it up to go home. What could be the cause for this?