just kinda curious if we can get this to kick off in the mitsubishi forums. just post a comment of what you did and we can see if we can keep this going! it doesn't have to nessacarily be today. can be anytime that u just want to throw out there. u can post pics if u want to show what you did as well. its up to u. have fun with it!

like ill start it and hopefully we can keep this going.

Today i got the exhaust on and got the new rims mounted

and last week i put the CAI on, racing seats, new headunit, and projector headlights.

Too many people on the forum,say there car wont start but it cranks and tries to start.
And too many people check a few things,give up, and take it to the dealer when they could save a lot of money.CHECK THE CHEAP STUFF FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im gonna help out and all the moderators im sure will add things ive missed but here goes.

#1 If you turn the key and nothing happens,Check the battery.This is simple just use an ohmnmeter to test the voltage.Not the battery then check the alternator and all starting circuit wires.Also check to see if the battery wires are corroded.

If your car cranks over but just doesnt fire up....

First see if there is spark.Just pull a plug,And have someone try to start it. (Need help just ask)
Second check to see if there's fuel at the fuel rail.There will be a test port that you can push and fuel should shoot out.

If fuel does shoot out,then have someone stand by the gas tank while you turn the car on to acc.They should hear the pump prime.

(DONT HEAR THE PUMP PRIME) CHECK the Fuel pump relay.Its a cheap part to buy or you can probe it.You will need a manuel though to see how and what the specs should be.Use a multimeter for that.

If you bleed the fuel at the rail. turn the key to acc and also hear the fuel pump prime..
you could have a fuel pump on its way out(aka its not working all the time),
clogged fuel filter,or a hose leak see if there is a puddle or some leaking underneath.

BUT if fuel is at the fuel rail and you have spark,your injectors may be clogged.
You can also backprobe your injectors to see if they are getting a pulse.

If you work and work and nothing checks out....

THEN TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC AND SPEND THE BIG BUCKS TO SEE WHAT THE HELL IS UP.

REMEMBER ALWAYS DO EASY THINGS TO HARD THINGS,too many times has the problem been a $5 fix and you gave up,took it to a mechanic and spent $500.

I don't want this to turn into the auto vs stick argument. It is just for discussion on aftermarket items for the auto trans

I've been in contact with a very nice guy who has developed a manual shift box for the auto trans dsms(1g and 2g) that is very similar to the IPT manual shift box but much cheaper. I also like his design better.

The easiest way to understand what it does is to think of it like an auto stick you can install on your car. You install the box, put your car in drive, flip the on switch and when you push a button it shifts up and when you push another button it shifts down.

the only difference is that, so far, you can't control the lock up clutch or shift pressure with his like you can the IPT version. HOWEVER, his is $165 and the IPT version is $569 not to mention he is working on a way to incorporate those options into his box. This will also appeal to the guys who don't like autos for road course or rally racing.

I've invited him to join our forum to add some input on how these things work. I haven't bought it just yet (but i'm sure I will very soon) to let anyone know how it works. He has had some others use it on other forums like DSMTuners and DSMTrend, and those people have nothing but good things to say.

Any thoughts?

Normally I dont like to link to other forums but there has been alot of 'newer' dsm owners asking some very basic questions lately.
Here's a few links to help people new to dsm's get acclimated with your car.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t43579-ac...t-they-mean.htm

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently...-dsm-questions/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tech-article-archives/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=tech

http://www.dsmtuners.com/wiki/index.php?ti...pecial:Allpages

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/

After reading ALL of this if you still have questions or need help, this is a great place to get what you need with alot of great people willing to help.
At the very least after reading all that info up there you wont sound like a moron when posting here

i am not totally sure if this post could qualify for a sticky or not, but i figured we could list the occurances that have happened to us that only the person whom it happened to can know how to explain. these are personal and very accurate ventures that i went through until i found the solution. so therefore its facts, permitted in great detail. theorys are not good topic starters and dont do very well for the person who is trying to fix the issue at hand at the very moment they need it. so if you have an occurance that you absoutely without a doubt know the reasoning behind it, lets post the trial and errors for our members alike and maybe we may come across something that we learned from one another. thanks

for 96 and 93+ motor years 4g63

ok well doing my own trans work and motor work, i have come across 2 very audibles ( sounds) that ive researched 1 on 1 with myself and my car and found out two ordeals. first, if your car sounds like it is ticking or rambling and getting louder and louder to where you think its crankwalk ( look up "crankwalk 4g63" and listen to the sound it makes from the cam sprocket area, it would sound similar) well its neither above, it is your crank pulley. yes your crank pulley, during the event of changing a clutch, i have to turn the motor into a certain position for my clutch spindles and my input shaft to line up, anyways in doing so, when i jumpstarted the car, i accidentally left the socket wrench connected to the crank bolt ( the one with a big square in it) and when i attempted to start it, it hit my inner fender and knocked it loose. i thought i had forgot oil or something ( i did an oil change while changing my clutch) but just turned out to be the bolt became loose and my pulley and/or crank was loose. best solution to fix this you may ask? get a buddy ( if you have one) and tell him to hold the brake ( doesnt matter if its on lift or what as long as you have power to your front brakes) and tell him to put it in first gear, while doing so, put the wrench in righty tighty mode and tighten the bolt. not too hard!!! just like 50 ft/lbs or so.


also, if you believe your number 4 cylinder has a rod knock, its not nessesairly a rod knock, listen. i have had to drain my trans fluid when changing the clutch and i told my buddy to put two quarts in the trans, with trans fluid. anyways, he doesnt tighten the drain plug all the way so it has a consistant yet slow leak, over 1 quart leaks out until my car sounds like something is going wacko on my rod to crank, anyways, started it today after letting it sit for 3 being that i was gonna sell it cuz the sound, and it didnt make that noise, talked to a friend of mine who doubted it was a rod knock, and gave me that solution to fill it up another quart. it worked. best way to add more is to take the vehicle speed sensor out with a 10 mm socket wrench with extention and fill it using that hole, also, the vss is located in the walls of the rear motor mount on the 2g, be careful not to drop the bolt in there!!! close call happened to me, anyways any question? pm me, ill be glad to help!

I know what water methanol injection is and how it works. I am just wondering if it can be used on a daily driver? I have looked at all of the kits and I want to know if there is a way to toggle the system on and off so that it is not wasted on trips to school or if it is best to just leave the system on at all times. Or is it just best not to have it on a daily driver at all? Are the kits hard on a motor (in my case a 4g63)? I have a 97 GSX that is all performance.

Here is a list of commonly used acronyms or "shortened" words and what they stand for. The list assumes that you already have a pretty good knowledge of your car already. Please refer to the FAQ thread in the "How To" section for more basic information. As always, please add on and I will keep updating this thread

DSM - Diamond Star Motors. Any 1g, 2g that has a 4g63 engine in it. The 420a does not fall under this category, it is Chrysler made.

OEM - original equipment manufacterer. Anything your car comes with from the factory is referred to as OEM

ECU - Engine computer. Controls pretty much everything that has to do with your engine.

BOV - blow off valve. Vents pressurized air from intake system. Used in conjunction with turbochargers.

Recirc - the pipe that goes from the BOV to the intake. It recirculates the air vented by the BOV.

UICP - upper intercooler pipe. Typically aftermarket and made from metal. BOV mounts to this piece

MAFT - MAF translator. Used in conjunction with a GM MAF

GM MAF - MAF sensor from a General Motors vehicle. Typically 3" diameter with a black sensor housing on top. Installed in UICP after BOV. Two functions include: 1. ability to remove the stock MAF thereby increasing intake flow; 2. allowing one to vent their BOV to atmosphere getting the "whoosh" sound without the ECU corrections that result in poor performance.

BFP - base fuel pressure. 43.5 psi on 2g 4g63 cars and 1g 5-speed cars. 39.5 on 1g automatic 4g63 cars? (please correct me I don't think that's right)

AFPR - adjustable fuel pressure regulator. allows one to adjust their base fuel pressure. To be affective an AFPR with a 1:1 rising rate ratio and pressure range of 30-70+ psi is necessary. This acronym refers to an aftermarket regulator.

FPR - fuel pressure regulator. This acronym typically refers to the stock regulator.

SMIM - sheet metal intake manifold. Aftermarket.

TB - throttle body. Mounts to the intake manifold and regulates throttle operation/air intake flow.

SMIC - side mount intercooler. Stock on 1g and 2g 4g63 cars and mounts right in front of the passenger wheel. Sometimes an OEM supra SMIC can be used as an upgrade but typically refers to the one that came with your car.

FMIC - front mount intercooler. Aftermarket intercooler that mounts in the middle behind the front bumper.

BAR - Metric measurement of pressure. 1 BAR = 14.5 psi.

PSI - pound per square inch of pressure. Standard measurement of pressure

VAC - vacuum. Measured in mm/hg = millimeters of mercury and is opposite of PSI/BAR.

RPM - revolutions per minute. How the speed of an engine is measured.

AFC - air fuel controller. Typically this refers to a device made by Apexi that allows one to make adjustments to fuel at user specified RPM and throttle position.

TPS - throttle position sensor. Mounts on the TB and tells the ECU how far you have the gas pedal pressed.

CPS - cam position sensor. Typically found on the exhaust cam of 420a cars. 4g63 cars use a trigger plate on the intake cam or CAS. This sensor tells the ECU at what position the cams are during engine operation. Cam position is measured in degrees from 0-360.

CAS - cam angle sensor. Found on 1g 4g63 cars. It tells the ECU what position the cams are in.

TDC - top dead center. When the piston in the first cyl is at it's highest point.

CYL - cylinder

TURBO - turbocharger. Uses engergy from the exhaust system to spin a compressor wheel thereby compressing the intake charge and forcing it into the engine.

Injector - fuel injector. Basically it's a valve that opens when an electric pulse is sent allowing pressurized fuel to flow through into the intake charge.

O2 housing - a cast housing that transfers exhaust from the turbine housing/wastegate to the downpipe. OEM on 4g63 turbo car turbo's

DP - downpipe. Exhaust pipe from the O2 housing to the catalytic converter

CAT - catalytic converter.

Mitsu - mitsubishi. If I needed to explain this one you probably wouldn't be on this board

External Gate - wastegate actuator that mounts in an 02 housing or turbo manifold

External Dump - a pipe that moutns to an external wastegate that vents its exhaust outside of the exhaust system.

AWD - all wheel drive. Eclipse GSX, Talon TSI AWD and subaru's are all wheel drive. I shouldn't have to explain this further

FWD - front wheel drive. All 1g/2g dsm's that aren't awd and all 420a cars are FWD

HP - Horsepower.

BHP - base horsepower or brake horsepower. The power your engine makes measured at the crankshaft.

TQ - torque

ftlbs or ft/lbs - torque

WHP - wheel horsepower. The power your engine makes at the wheels.

AWHP - all wheel horsepower. The power an AWD car makes at all 4 wheels.

AC or A/C - air conditioning. Keeps you cool in the summer time and steals about 35hp.

FIAV - fast idle air valve. A valve that has a wax pellet inside of it. The pellet is hard when the engine is cold thereby allowing more air into the engine during idle. This keeps the idle higher than normal and will help warm the engine up. Once the engine is warm the pellet melts and then restricts some of that additional air allowing the idle to come down to where it should be (700-800 RPM)

ISC - idle speed control motor. Found on 4g63 cars this sensor controls idle speed. It also is the reason your RPM's drop and then come back up whenever you are at idle and turn the A/C on.

IAC - idle air controller. A sensor with a plunger that controls the amount of air getting into the engine at idle(warm or cold) thereby controlling idle. Found on 420a cars

MPG - miles per gallon. If you need this explained please google

N/T - non turbo.

N/A - naturally aspirated. Meaning that vacuum is used to draw air and fuel into an engine. This engine does not have any kind of forced induction.

CAI - cold air intake. Usually a long pipe with an air filter on the end. Its meant to extend outside of the engine bay to draw in colder air

SRI - short ram intake. Usually a short pipe with an air filter on the end. It is meant to reduce restriction drawing in more air than the stock intake system will allow.

BRM - something that is ghey or stupid.

Crank - crankshaft

Rod - connecting rod

Stroker - typically a 4g63 engine that has been modified with a bigger crank and shorter pistons turning it into a 2.3L

Destroker - a 4g64 engine with a 4g63 crank, longer rods, and 4g64 pistons turning it into a 2.1L

Cam - camshaft.

WOT - wide open throttle. your gas pedal is on the floor

WBO2 - wide band O2 sensor. This is the ONLY sensor that will tell you your actual air fuel ratio. the A/F gauge is just for show

A/F - air fuel ratio

A/F Gauge - air fuel gauge. pretty light show that works off of your stock narrow band O2 sensor. not accurate, for show only

NBO2 - narrow band O2 sensor. OEM sensor that takes a guess at the A/F to let the ECU know how to make fuel trim changes.

FTW - For The Win. typically used to describe something good.

LOL well everyone should run a holset as a daily driver. It was hard for me to accept it, though I was witnessing it, but this turbo literally spools as fast as my small 16g with identical mods (I swapped between the two and maintained the same boost for the sake of comparison). It's a great street turbo with more top end / peak flow than many "race" turbos.

WRT boost I run, it settles at 28-30 psi depending on the nature of the weather now. Most of this summer I was experimenting with it a 25psi. Which at even 25psi, the heat from compressing the air is still too hot for pump gas and my 20" X 9" X2.5" intercooler. I run a 3gal/hr nozzle for a fine mist plus a 5 gal/hr nozzle for combustion chamber cooling; and run 80/20 water/isopropynol. This is the big h1c from the 1991-1993 INTERCOOLED cummins turbo diesel ram pickup. They have the 54mm inducer compressor wheel. It flows around 3 lb/min less than the hx35. This puts it right at the flow of a 50-trim and a hair more than a 20g.

I can run around town out of boost just fine without injection. The pump isn't activated until about 8psi. This is what almost ALL decent kits allow. So to answer the question: a decent WI kit won't be on all the time bogging the engine and running you out of fluid. Only there when you need it. At a certain boost. Now DSMlink lets these fuel injectors run just as if the factory installed them: perfectly stoich (14.7:1). 14.7:1 is ideal for fuel mileage and doesn't require knock supression when out of boost, as this is how the factory ecu runs you when unmodified and out of boost (closed loop). Beating around with it is just like any other dsm with 272-style cams. On boost is where things change. . . My dsmlink logs showed 2lb/min more airflow at 2psi LESS boost from the holset at the same rpm , around 5200rpms. The reason is because the wheels are much more efficient. More energy is converted to boost instead of wasted as heat. So less exhaust gases are needed to achieve a pressure threshold. Ball Bearing has nothing on simply more efficient turbine wheels and compressors.

Since it rises to 30 psi by 3400rpms, if I were to play with it at all, most certainly knock supression is neccessary for pumpgas.

Do it.

The Truth About Really Upgrading YOUR Car.

Read it, discuss it, input whatever.



E

hey i have a 95 tsi auto. i want to make it a 5 speed. i couldnt bet the price i paid for the auto and now that summer is coming fast i want 5 speed. now can i just swap the trans or to i need to swap the tcase and all too? i know what im doing when it comes to cars. i just looking for info b4 i jump into this. thanks for the help

Should i keep the black rims



or invest in some white ones

when i drive my 97 gst down the road it shoots oil out from the dipstick tube, replaced the pcv valve and it still does it. any suggestions? need an answer fairly soon



Thanks.

Hey I just rebuilt my 90 lasers 4g63t and I have no spark. The cam angle sensor is hooked up and has no cracks, the piece is also connected to the cam. Every connector is connected, now I'm stumped. Little help?

Hi all, this is my first of many posts here because of my new purchase!!

Anyways, a little bit about the car. It's a 1998 Eclipse GS-T with some modifications. Small 16g, Big intercooler, Catback exhaust system. The monitoring equipment I have at the moment is a boost gauge, Apexi turbo timer(which is my AF ratio gauge as well), and an SAFC which is currently zeroed out.

To my knowledge the fuel pump and injectors are stock. The turbo is running at 14psi which is the lowest it will go with the MBC installed.

Alright, with that out of the way I need to ask for a little bit of guidance. The car has one HUGE problem, and that problem is a fuel cut of some sort and a really lean state(according to the AF ratio gauge on the turbo timer). As long as I stay out of boost, the gauge will read 14.7 almost always with the exception of the occasionally jump +/- .1. The problem is when boost is introduced. The initial stomp on the gas causes the gauge to show it richening up to around 13.0 or 12.8 and then the minute boost hits slowly climbs to nearly 17.0-18.0. The fuel won't cut in first but will cut in second at WOT and any gear thereafter. I took the spring and ball out of my MBC to put it back to stock and it does the same thing at 8psi as 14psi except it just takes longer.

Am I not getting enough fuel to it? Is that apexi turbo timer AF gauge crap? What's the issue?

Money is no object, I just need to know what I need to do and what gear I need to make it happen. I am fairly mechanically inclined, just rather new to this as I have not worked on these cars since my youth.

Thanks in advance for any light that can be shed or direction that can be given!

ok, My sunroof seems to have no latch or anything holding it down, resulting in shaking almost to the point of off when i hit fifty w ith it closed.
but when i push it up and lock it open it has no problems, any suggestions?

Ive been working on getting my 98 Spyder GS running right(missing fire on 1 & 4) but the previous owner put a 2.0 head on the stock 2.4 block with plans of turboing so I was hoping someone could point me to a tutorial or something on how to do it so I can double check his work to be sure there isnt something he did to cause me to lose fire.

The main thing Im worried about it electrical wiring-specifically the camshaft sensor.Ild like to trace all the re-wiring that was needed to make double sure there isnt a loose connection or miswired anywhere.Thanks for any help guys(& gals?)

I have a question?
I want a upgrade for my 95 gst
but I don't know what to get!!

What the different bettwen the

Big 16g

18g and the 20g

Comment please!! Thanks

I have a '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS that has a starting problem. The switch (electrical component) is good and will crank the car if removed from the column and turned by hand. The problem is that I have too much slack in the assembly that turns it. I even notched out the screw holes on the switch itself and indexed it a little bit and it worked for a while. When you turn the key all the way to start, the slack in the assembly causes the switch to not turn far enough to engage the starter.

My question is this: Are there parts between the lock cylinder assembly and the switch that can be replaced, do I just need a lock cylinder, or do I need a whole new column?

Hey I am looking at getting my fiance a eclipse but there is a manifold leak the guy said there is two small holes on the top of the maifold I am going to look at it this Friday, but wanted to know if there is something more wrong with the maifold then the guy says if the repair cost is going to get pricey or if its an easy fix.

I have a 1997 GS-T and on the drivers sun visor there are 3 small buttons that I'm assuming are for programming to open your garage door. I've been trying to find an owner's manual online but haven't had any luck. Anyone know how to program them or know where to find an owner's manual that would help with this?

i have a 1990 gsx... ok i have rebuild the motor... when i first time is started it... i had to pump the gas peddel but it started... a big puff came from the back passenger side of the engine... i have replaced the ground cables thinkin thats what fried... well it still wont start!! i have replaced the sp wires, compression sits over 110-120psi, i have replaced the injector plugs!! Still nothing... tested the fuel pump (works)... new ngk's (checked gap too)... any ideas

Hey guys, so i am thinking about buying a 1998 Eclipse GS 5 speed with 125k miles on it. Asking price is only $3500, which is just in my price range. Also is bone stock which is nice. But my question is how reliable are these eclipse's with the DSM 420a engines? I talked to my one friend who is a mechanic and he suggested me not to buy the eclipse since it does have the DSM engine in it and with that many miles i'll just be putting more and more money in to the car on repairs. Is this true? I need a reliable car to get me to school and work and I really do not want to buy a car that is going to break down in a few thousand miles. Have any of you had any problems with a high mileage DSM engined eclipse? I know i will have to change the timing belt every 60-70k but anything else major that i should be worried about? Or am i better off just going with a, dare i say it, Honda? I found a del sol w/ 100k on it for $500 more and i know for a fact Honda's are built to last well in to the 200k with proper maintenance. Any comments or suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

Recently i test drove a '90 turbo eclipse gs. The car was in fairly good shape cosmetically, and ran smooth, but there was an issue with the clutch. When i set down in the car and shifted I instantly ground the gears a little. It felt like i was pretty much pushing the clutch through the floor boards in order to shift without grinding gears which lead me to believe that the car needed to have the clutch replaced. I was bummed 'cause the combination of my low budget and the replacement of the clutch just didn't agree.

so my question is; does anyone drive a '90 turbo rs? and if so, does your clutch act similarly?

i have a 1997 eclipse gst spyder
mods are
forced performance 18g turbo
660cc injectors
255lph fp
adjustible fuel pressure regulator
3in turbo back exaust
dnp tubulicar header
afc neo
3in gm mas air flow sensor
maft
greddy 24v fmic
custom intercooler pipes
open 02 dump
stock 7 bolt 136,000 miles
i have no real problem but when i drive my car everything under my hood gets so hot you cant touch anything. i have my header exposed. i was going to wrap it but i heard that if you wrap it it would be more likely to crack. is this true. also i was going to wrap my upper intercooler pipe to so it wouldnt soak up so much heat. boost is currently set at 20psi. i have no detonation problems. in the spring iwas going to raise the boost to 25psi. but first i wanted to get the under the hood temps down so i wouldnt have any detonation problems. any thing else i can do to get under the hood temps down?

I am new to the car scene and just purchased a Mazda 3 but would like something a little faster and that I can work on, since the mazda is my daily driver this I have decieded to look into eclipses. I want nothing to do with a FWD car so I am strictly looking at buying a GSX. So my question is what should i be looking for and looking out for in a 2G GSX? I generally look for a more stock car with under 100k miles but I have never looked into buying a turbo AWD car.

I also am looking at late 90's 2.5 impreza RS, would that be a better option? I like how the eclipse looks but I want a performance car.

Please do not suggest I buy any sort of FWD car or a WRX, but I am open to other suggestions. Thanks

behind the engine there is a vaccum box. one line go's to the intake up top. were does the other one go?

chris

hello everyone!!!
did anyone have a problem with accelerating the car
like when you try to speed up! and it wont go fast
well my 95 gst is doing like that and i dont know whats wrong with it
any comments!! thanks

how often does a ecm go bad? the power wire for the cam and crankshaft sensor has only 2v coming out @ the ecm the spec is 8-9v. i bypassed the ecm and hooked up 12v staight to the wire. the car started right up. whats your take of just hooking up a powered key switch with a resistor to drop the voltage down? or by a $600 ecm from mistsubishi?

hey all hows it goin. just got my first dsm. 1990 eagle talon tsi. i am an auto body technition and got the car as a project so i will be doing the body all over again since it looks terrible. my question is where did most of you start. i have been reading for what seems like days about these engines and they seem great but have a short temper. im not looking to run 10 second quarters but was wondering what the first things i should get. the engine is a fresh rebuild with voodoo cams and a better clutch and flywheel. given my goals for the car are not huge hp what is a good fuel system to use. it will be a daily driver so reliability is esential. also i have been reading and getting a lot of different answers about the gm maf sensor. how much does this help and is it even worth it to vent my bov-yes i do love the sound but if its gonna hurt my performance i wont waist time. thanks for any help. hope to hear from yall pretty soon
damn i love this banana

I have a 95 GST and I just had the water pump and some belts changed. When i was leaving the shop my car started idling around 1500 RPMs when normally its around 1000. This has happened to me a little less than a year ago and it randomly starts again. If i rev up the car it will lower back down to about 1200 and when im driving it kinda lags when i shift.....got any ideas?

i am just wondering if some one can give
some advice i a 95 eclipse gst and i want to get a cat-back sistem
but i dont know what to get
any comment!! thanks..

i was planning on getting these cameshafts and cam gears
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/p...mp;veh=2G%20DSM

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/p...ge=1&veh=2G DSM

if i install these and advnce the timing(as long as tuning allows)
will this throw my check engine light or will i have any other problems


boost set at 20psi



mods are
forced performance 18g turbo
660cc injectors
255lph fp
adjustible fuel pressure regulator
3in turbo back exaust
dnp tubulicar header
afc neo
3in gm mas air flow sensor
maft
greddy 24v fmic
custom intercooler pipes
open 02 dump
stock 7 bolt 136,000 miles
aem water meth injetion

i have a 98 eclipse GST and its been sittin for about 8 months cant seem to figure out whats wrong with it. so im looking to replace it. if anyone has a 4g63t engine for sale or knows where i can find one let me know. thanks

hey all,

im a total newbie when it comes to this, and have looked around the forum and the internet for parts however have had some trouble. I bought a 96 gsx from a neighbor about 2 years ago with 46K miles on it. I was wondering where I could find some side paneling, new front skirt and hood online. The side paneling is coming off and i recently got in a fender bender and messed up the front end of the car along with the hood.

any suggestions? i will be adding pics of the car when i bought it to display what i need later on. thanks in advance!

i just tried to install the 99 front bumper on my car but it wont fit because the lights are too long are the lights from the 97-99 different from my car which is 95-96?????

My car developed a new problem today


It rattle's when ever I use the throttle and when I turn, the feeling is coming from the front right area

I personally think ti's the steering rack/tiered but I'd like your guy's opinion....

97' Eagle Talon Tsi FWD
Hey fellas, I need to get a new down pipe because the one I have is beyond welding. I have the stock turbo but I might upgrade it at some point. Will the stock size down pipe fit on any other turbos or are the flange sizes all different on all turbos. I really dont want to buy two of them.
Thanks again

My head gasket is blown on my 99 eclipse rs. I wanted to get it in time first before pulling the head. Book said that there are arrows. all I see on the cam pulleys are a dents that lines up when the bottom says that it is tds. The question I have is: Is that the arrows that the book said?

chris

hey guys, been a long time since i've been on here, but im moving on from an rs to a gs-t. My mother in law has a 98 gst that she has had since new. it has about 98k on it but about 75k she started having clutch problems. This was a few years ago. i remember her telling me that her car was starting to get hard to go into gear and i swear she made some comment about coming of the freeway on a long curve and having no clutch at all and couldnt get it into gear. She took it to the dealer and they tried tellin her it was the clutch master cylinder and i do believe they replaced it. Its still hard to get into gear today and the dealer says all it needs is a clutch. Shes wanting to trade it off and i have told her if she ever thought of selling it i wanted first dibs but after reading a bunch on the forum im thinkin it sounds like crankwalk. Are there any other signs to look for or any easy ways i can tell myself? she lives a couple hundred miles away so i wanna be certain before i tell her i want it.

Okay I'm sure you you all have heard this before so sorry if so.I have a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse Rs(manufactured in June Of 94) and it won't start I get no fuel or spark.

I just recently bought it cheap.The person I bought it from swears its the ecm and I don't want to just replace it without trying other things first so any suggestions are welcome.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advanced

So my tach funtions normal until the engine warms up and will function normally above 4-45rpms. could it just be a bad cluster? Also OBD2 throws code for MAP malfuntion but i don't notice any performance issues. Anyone else had either of these issues?

I have searched around and forgive me if ive missed a previous post. I believe the lifters are bad in my 99 eclipse 420a. The tick (sometimes pretty loud) is sparatic and coming from the top of the motor. compression is good and even across all cyl. and oil is clean. i decided to take the lifters out to see what shape they are in. Problem is there is no hole in the top corrosponding to the hole in the rocker??. Im assuming that this is just a different style lifter. i want to make sure i can use the style with the hole in the top or better yet the updated style withe the large hole for the 2000+ engines. any help is appreciated

I recently bought a 1998 Eclipse GS-T and have been doing some work to it. Its had plenty of work done to it before me but it seems that the electrical is cursed. Heres some problems I'm having:
#1 - Turn signals don't work, but the hazards do (checked the turn signal switch in the column and cant find a blow fuse in the fuse block)
#2 - I rewired the boost controller which was hodgeboged into having power by running the wires to the fuse block on the inside, and now my entire gauge cluster (spedometer, tach, temp gauge, boost gauge) is non functional.

Any help would be great because its giving me a headache.

Hello here guys, there's been a buuuunch of time that I dont get online for personal purposes, but here I am again somehow, I was looking for a MHI 16G used, doesnt have to be a BIG 16G. It is for my spyder GST and I would like to know how much PSI could I run the stock turbo or a 16G with stock fuel system, I have a walbro 255HP but its uninstalled. Does installing the wally will let me put a few more PSI on it? I though on buying a FPR and to see if that would let me to run 12-15 PSI totally safely, just for fun, not for racing or hurting the engine. Also, is this worth the money?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT