just kinda curious if we can get this to kick off in the mitsubishi forums. just post a comment of what you did and we can see if we can keep this going! it doesn't have to nessacarily be today. can be anytime that u just want to throw out there. u can post pics if u want to show what you did as well. its up to u. have fun with it!

like ill start it and hopefully we can keep this going.

Today i got the exhaust on and got the new rims mounted

and last week i put the CAI on, racing seats, new headunit, and projector headlights.

Too many people on the forum,say there car wont start but it cranks and tries to start.
And too many people check a few things,give up, and take it to the dealer when they could save a lot of money.CHECK THE CHEAP STUFF FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im gonna help out and all the moderators im sure will add things ive missed but here goes.

#1 If you turn the key and nothing happens,Check the battery.This is simple just use an ohmnmeter to test the voltage.Not the battery then check the alternator and all starting circuit wires.Also check to see if the battery wires are corroded.

If your car cranks over but just doesnt fire up....

First see if there is spark.Just pull a plug,And have someone try to start it. (Need help just ask)
Second check to see if there's fuel at the fuel rail.There will be a test port that you can push and fuel should shoot out.

If fuel does shoot out,then have someone stand by the gas tank while you turn the car on to acc.They should hear the pump prime.

(DONT HEAR THE PUMP PRIME) CHECK the Fuel pump relay.Its a cheap part to buy or you can probe it.You will need a manuel though to see how and what the specs should be.Use a multimeter for that.

If you bleed the fuel at the rail. turn the key to acc and also hear the fuel pump prime..
you could have a fuel pump on its way out(aka its not working all the time),
clogged fuel filter,or a hose leak see if there is a puddle or some leaking underneath.

BUT if fuel is at the fuel rail and you have spark,your injectors may be clogged.
You can also backprobe your injectors to see if they are getting a pulse.

If you work and work and nothing checks out....

THEN TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC AND SPEND THE BIG BUCKS TO SEE WHAT THE HELL IS UP.

REMEMBER ALWAYS DO EASY THINGS TO HARD THINGS,too many times has the problem been a $5 fix and you gave up,took it to a mechanic and spent $500.

I don't want this to turn into the auto vs stick argument. It is just for discussion on aftermarket items for the auto trans

I've been in contact with a very nice guy who has developed a manual shift box for the auto trans dsms(1g and 2g) that is very similar to the IPT manual shift box but much cheaper. I also like his design better.

The easiest way to understand what it does is to think of it like an auto stick you can install on your car. You install the box, put your car in drive, flip the on switch and when you push a button it shifts up and when you push another button it shifts down.

the only difference is that, so far, you can't control the lock up clutch or shift pressure with his like you can the IPT version. HOWEVER, his is $165 and the IPT version is $569 not to mention he is working on a way to incorporate those options into his box. This will also appeal to the guys who don't like autos for road course or rally racing.

I've invited him to join our forum to add some input on how these things work. I haven't bought it just yet (but i'm sure I will very soon) to let anyone know how it works. He has had some others use it on other forums like DSMTuners and DSMTrend, and those people have nothing but good things to say.

Any thoughts?

I know what water methanol injection is and how it works. I am just wondering if it can be used on a daily driver? I have looked at all of the kits and I want to know if there is a way to toggle the system on and off so that it is not wasted on trips to school or if it is best to just leave the system on at all times. Or is it just best not to have it on a daily driver at all? Are the kits hard on a motor (in my case a 4g63)? I have a 97 GSX that is all performance.

Here is a list of commonly used acronyms or "shortened" words and what they stand for. The list assumes that you already have a pretty good knowledge of your car already. Please refer to the FAQ thread in the "How To" section for more basic information. As always, please add on and I will keep updating this thread

DSM - Diamond Star Motors. Any 1g, 2g that has a 4g63 engine in it. The 420a does not fall under this category, it is Chrysler made.

OEM - original equipment manufacterer. Anything your car comes with from the factory is referred to as OEM

ECU - Engine computer. Controls pretty much everything that has to do with your engine.

BOV - blow off valve. Vents pressurized air from intake system. Used in conjunction with turbochargers.

Recirc - the pipe that goes from the BOV to the intake. It recirculates the air vented by the BOV.

UICP - upper intercooler pipe. Typically aftermarket and made from metal. BOV mounts to this piece

MAFT - MAF translator. Used in conjunction with a GM MAF

GM MAF - MAF sensor from a General Motors vehicle. Typically 3" diameter with a black sensor housing on top. Installed in UICP after BOV. Two functions include: 1. ability to remove the stock MAF thereby increasing intake flow; 2. allowing one to vent their BOV to atmosphere getting the "whoosh" sound without the ECU corrections that result in poor performance.

BFP - base fuel pressure. 43.5 psi on 2g 4g63 cars and 1g 5-speed cars. 39.5 on 1g automatic 4g63 cars? (please correct me I don't think that's right)

AFPR - adjustable fuel pressure regulator. allows one to adjust their base fuel pressure. To be affective an AFPR with a 1:1 rising rate ratio and pressure range of 30-70+ psi is necessary. This acronym refers to an aftermarket regulator.

FPR - fuel pressure regulator. This acronym typically refers to the stock regulator.

SMIM - sheet metal intake manifold. Aftermarket.

TB - throttle body. Mounts to the intake manifold and regulates throttle operation/air intake flow.

SMIC - side mount intercooler. Stock on 1g and 2g 4g63 cars and mounts right in front of the passenger wheel. Sometimes an OEM supra SMIC can be used as an upgrade but typically refers to the one that came with your car.

FMIC - front mount intercooler. Aftermarket intercooler that mounts in the middle behind the front bumper.

BAR - Metric measurement of pressure. 1 BAR = 14.5 psi.

PSI - pound per square inch of pressure. Standard measurement of pressure

VAC - vacuum. Measured in mm/hg = millimeters of mercury and is opposite of PSI/BAR.

RPM - revolutions per minute. How the speed of an engine is measured.

AFC - air fuel controller. Typically this refers to a device made by Apexi that allows one to make adjustments to fuel at user specified RPM and throttle position.

TPS - throttle position sensor. Mounts on the TB and tells the ECU how far you have the gas pedal pressed.

CPS - cam position sensor. Typically found on the exhaust cam of 420a cars. 4g63 cars use a trigger plate on the intake cam or CAS. This sensor tells the ECU at what position the cams are during engine operation. Cam position is measured in degrees from 0-360.

CAS - cam angle sensor. Found on 1g 4g63 cars. It tells the ECU what position the cams are in.

TDC - top dead center. When the piston in the first cyl is at it's highest point.

CYL - cylinder

TURBO - turbocharger. Uses engergy from the exhaust system to spin a compressor wheel thereby compressing the intake charge and forcing it into the engine.

Injector - fuel injector. Basically it's a valve that opens when an electric pulse is sent allowing pressurized fuel to flow through into the intake charge.

O2 housing - a cast housing that transfers exhaust from the turbine housing/wastegate to the downpipe. OEM on 4g63 turbo car turbo's

DP - downpipe. Exhaust pipe from the O2 housing to the catalytic converter

CAT - catalytic converter.

Mitsu - mitsubishi. If I needed to explain this one you probably wouldn't be on this board

External Gate - wastegate actuator that mounts in an 02 housing or turbo manifold

External Dump - a pipe that moutns to an external wastegate that vents its exhaust outside of the exhaust system.

AWD - all wheel drive. Eclipse GSX, Talon TSI AWD and subaru's are all wheel drive. I shouldn't have to explain this further

FWD - front wheel drive. All 1g/2g dsm's that aren't awd and all 420a cars are FWD

HP - Horsepower.

BHP - base horsepower or brake horsepower. The power your engine makes measured at the crankshaft.

TQ - torque

ftlbs or ft/lbs - torque

WHP - wheel horsepower. The power your engine makes at the wheels.

AWHP - all wheel horsepower. The power an AWD car makes at all 4 wheels.

AC or A/C - air conditioning. Keeps you cool in the summer time and steals about 35hp.

FIAV - fast idle air valve. A valve that has a wax pellet inside of it. The pellet is hard when the engine is cold thereby allowing more air into the engine during idle. This keeps the idle higher than normal and will help warm the engine up. Once the engine is warm the pellet melts and then restricts some of that additional air allowing the idle to come down to where it should be (700-800 RPM)

ISC - idle speed control motor. Found on 4g63 cars this sensor controls idle speed. It also is the reason your RPM's drop and then come back up whenever you are at idle and turn the A/C on.

IAC - idle air controller. A sensor with a plunger that controls the amount of air getting into the engine at idle(warm or cold) thereby controlling idle. Found on 420a cars

MPG - miles per gallon. If you need this explained please google

N/T - non turbo.

N/A - naturally aspirated. Meaning that vacuum is used to draw air and fuel into an engine. This engine does not have any kind of forced induction.

CAI - cold air intake. Usually a long pipe with an air filter on the end. Its meant to extend outside of the engine bay to draw in colder air

SRI - short ram intake. Usually a short pipe with an air filter on the end. It is meant to reduce restriction drawing in more air than the stock intake system will allow.

BRM - something that is ghey or stupid.

Crank - crankshaft

Rod - connecting rod

Stroker - typically a 4g63 engine that has been modified with a bigger crank and shorter pistons turning it into a 2.3L

Destroker - a 4g64 engine with a 4g63 crank, longer rods, and 4g64 pistons turning it into a 2.1L

Cam - camshaft.

WOT - wide open throttle. your gas pedal is on the floor

WBO2 - wide band O2 sensor. This is the ONLY sensor that will tell you your actual air fuel ratio. the A/F gauge is just for show

A/F - air fuel ratio

A/F Gauge - air fuel gauge. pretty light show that works off of your stock narrow band O2 sensor. not accurate, for show only

NBO2 - narrow band O2 sensor. OEM sensor that takes a guess at the A/F to let the ECU know how to make fuel trim changes.

FTW - For The Win. typically used to describe something good.

LOL well everyone should run a holset as a daily driver. It was hard for me to accept it, though I was witnessing it, but this turbo literally spools as fast as my small 16g with identical mods (I swapped between the two and maintained the same boost for the sake of comparison). It's a great street turbo with more top end / peak flow than many "race" turbos.

WRT boost I run, it settles at 28-30 psi depending on the nature of the weather now. Most of this summer I was experimenting with it a 25psi. Which at even 25psi, the heat from compressing the air is still too hot for pump gas and my 20" X 9" X2.5" intercooler. I run a 3gal/hr nozzle for a fine mist plus a 5 gal/hr nozzle for combustion chamber cooling; and run 80/20 water/isopropynol. This is the big h1c from the 1991-1993 INTERCOOLED cummins turbo diesel ram pickup. They have the 54mm inducer compressor wheel. It flows around 3 lb/min less than the hx35. This puts it right at the flow of a 50-trim and a hair more than a 20g.

I can run around town out of boost just fine without injection. The pump isn't activated until about 8psi. This is what almost ALL decent kits allow. So to answer the question: a decent WI kit won't be on all the time bogging the engine and running you out of fluid. Only there when you need it. At a certain boost. Now DSMlink lets these fuel injectors run just as if the factory installed them: perfectly stoich (14.7:1). 14.7:1 is ideal for fuel mileage and doesn't require knock supression when out of boost, as this is how the factory ecu runs you when unmodified and out of boost (closed loop). Beating around with it is just like any other dsm with 272-style cams. On boost is where things change. . . My dsmlink logs showed 2lb/min more airflow at 2psi LESS boost from the holset at the same rpm , around 5200rpms. The reason is because the wheels are much more efficient. More energy is converted to boost instead of wasted as heat. So less exhaust gases are needed to achieve a pressure threshold. Ball Bearing has nothing on simply more efficient turbine wheels and compressors.

Since it rises to 30 psi by 3400rpms, if I were to play with it at all, most certainly knock supression is neccessary for pumpgas.

Do it.

The Truth About Really Upgrading YOUR Car.

Read it, discuss it, input whatever.



E

Dose anyone have a pic of the fuel pump relay for a 99 GST i been looking for it but i cant find nothing the only thing i found was 2 relay that are number E8T1018326 other than that i can find the fuel pump relay i called long beach mitsubishi and told me that the part number is MR224160 and i have been looking for it and i cant find it so can you guys help me plz i need to have my car running by monday thank you

Hi, my car started starting weird the other day where when I turned the key to start it I would have to hold the key for like 15 seconds because the engine would turn over 2 - 6 times very slowly and finally starts up the car. I noticed that my positive cables were really corroded and I put on a new battery terminal connection on there and connected all the cords and it wouldn't start so I cleaned the positive cord connectors that connect to the battery terminal connector if that makes since... Then it started up no problem...


Now its starting to start weird again and sometimes not at all so I have to go clean the connectors again... Is it hard to completely change out the whole positive cords?




Sorry this message is really confusing just don't know how to word everything.

I have a 99 GST and 2 days ago i was making a left turn and out of no where my car turn off it cranks but wont give no sparks so can you guys please help me??

Hi guys,
Im possibly going to buy an Eclipse soon but after spending many hours browsing through this forum im non the wiser on the car im looking to buy.

What are your opinions on the 16v version of the car? (I know its not as good at the GSX etc but I cant find anything better here in Sweden (Im english BTW, but living in Sweden))

What kind of engine Mods can you do to this model of car? Is it possible to squeeze a few more HP out of it?

Now this is where im REALLY confused. As i understand this is a 1g Eclipse, but I dont really understand the 420A chit-chat that goes on in these forums.

Im sorry if my post is just echoing other users. I honestly have taken time to read up on myself!

Cheers guys

NRD

Hey guys getting the 505 idle control error. I was seeing if there was away to tell if its the idle air controller or if its a bad throttle body.

I dont really wanna replace both as neither are just cheap ass parts.

The car hasnt gotten to the point where its kicking or stalling yet.

I have a tanabe exhaust and I put a silencer in it but I was wondering, does this cut from the performance because it restricts the ability for the exhaust gas's to escape the muffler?

99 eclipse rs. Has a dual tip muffler on it. Super loud, keep getting pulled over for it, finally got me a ticket. Thought it was my flex pipe hole, just blew an arm fixing it and i still dont think its quiet enough for the cop to drop the ticket. Basically the fluke that had the car before me put a muffler on it that dont get me wrong sounds amazing, but attracts cops and tickets that i dont want to pay for. I need a new muffler and the only one i found dual tip so far was matrix (POS fart cans) and i dont want to waste my money buying another muffler thats going to be just as loud. Sounds good but isnt ridiculously loud, any suggestions?


=)


Edit: I found one by megan racing? idk the reputation of them so idk if its any good

hey guys im new to this forum and i just got a 1999 eclipse spyder gs all though i wish it was a gsx hahah. Its not but i seem to love this car my last car being a kia sephia very slow, well i want to help make my car faster can anyone help me i have changed the oil and stuff myself im soon gonna do a tranny flush and stuff but yea what can help my car go faster...?

and if anyone has a short shifter i could buy let me know...?

i hope to meet everyone soon and get to meet people im from san diego thanks in advance!

I have w5m332wpge trany in my 2g eclipse does anyone know where i can get a rebuild kit for it?

hey sorry im a newb at this car stuff so if i have a 4g64 engine is it good if i replace it with a 4g63...? and also is it worth it to turbo my car...?

Hey guys,

It's been a while since i've posted on the forums. I've had a surgery since then on my hand and a whole ton of other stuff going on so it's good to be back.

I've been working on my car again and I think it's time to swap out the engine to a 4G63T. I'm swapping from a 1993 eclipse with a 4G37. I know i'll need the harness, complete engine, transmission, and ECU. I won't be using the cyclone manifold if the engine comes with one; I've read that it's a total hassle getting it to work. I have a mechanic that will do the work for me (a good friend of mine). Before I spend my hard earned money i'd like to find out which distributor out there is the most reliable and honest (lol honest) when it comes to providing a quality engine with no bs. Have any of you had experience ordering through a JDM distributor and who in your opinion would you recommend?

Thanks all

i need help on how to find out or wat to look for in my new dsm i got a 95 eclipse and my transmission dont work it got all gears but wont go in reverse and when i drove it ill pop out back in neutrall from every gear its on need help

Well i bought the car a month ago and havent driven i yet, im checking it to make sure it is safe and while checking it i noticed that the intak manifold gasket was sticking out. Now i dont know if its supposed to be like that or the person that installed it put it wrong.

anyone have one for sell that they want to sell me...?

and does it matter what brand i get.

I have a 95 GST. I think I might have a boost leak but Im not really sure, this is my first Turbo car and Ive not had it very long. When I go above 55 my car sometimes starts spuddering, like its flooding itself out. When it does it I can push in the clutch and wait for the RPMs to fall down to 1 grand, then give it a little rev and throw it back and gear and it goes fine for another min or two. When it starts spuddering I lose all power and I also noticed that my boost gauge usually reads a little above or exactly 0 kph when it happens.
I seriousy dont know what to do.. it runs exactly fine when driving around town or taking off from a dead stop. But when it comes to cruising above 55...it just doesnt want to do it. My car specs are. 1g 6bolt 4g63 engine... HKS 272 Cams...550 Injectors...Denso Iridium sparkplugs with racing wires...Small 16g Turbo with MBC set at 15psi. It has 1g rods machined so EVO pistons could fit. I just installed the plugs and wires because I thought that might be the problem...didnt help :-( So can anyone tell me my next step?

Hey all. I posted this in the 3g forum, but knew id have a much more knowledgeable group to work with here. So anyways, I have to keep raising my idle, but the next day it will be back down to putting at 500-600 rpm. I have run out of room to turn it up anymore! so what the hell is going on? is there a bad sensor or something?

my 96 gs-t has been having some trouble recently. when i reach about 2500-3000 rpm and my turbo starts to kick in, i lose power, the car jerks (more dramatically in gears 1-2) and small backfires occur in my exhaust. has anyone had this problem and found a solution? check engine light is not on, so i have no codes to offer. thanks in advance.

Long story short: girlfriend bought car. Previous owner removed 2 out of 3 brackets (not entire sure) that hold CV axle carrier bearing (?) to the engine block = not safe = trying to find those OEM brackets!!.

This is what he told me (from what I caught), a CV axle attaches to the motor through a carrier bearing of some sort. This is attached to the block by 3 bolts, each bolt having it's own separate bracket.

The bracket that is there is holding the carrier bearing thing to the block.

That's all that's there. The two other brackets that are missing are supposed to be holding it to other stuff.

Any info? I'm going to be looking online for some diagrams, so if anybody knows where some are please feel free to post the links!

I'm not entirely sure what this is and might have my wording wrong, so I'll update if I clarify anything.

Mitsubishi guys you're up!! I know I don't ever post on this forum, but it's my GF's car and I gotta help her. I appreciate any input!

(MetaEnder from NWTuner.com)

I was wondering what sensor is this that i have in front of the transmission, i thought it was the speed sensor but i think i was mistaken. Can someone please tell me what i is? (its the yellow piece)

I hope one of you experts can help me out here 'cause my wallet is getting mighty thin. I have a 99 GS-T Spyder 2.0 turbo. I replaced the stock Garrett turbo with a Mitsu Evo III 16G. Continued to get blue exhaust smoke. Plugs looked good, compression within factory specs. Pulled air intake line from airbox to turbo and saw oil so I replaced it with another 16G 3 days ago. Still blue exhaust, pulled air intake to find oil again. What the hell is going on? Both times I primed turbo VERY well. Am I missing something here?

I have a 95 gst and its the stock 7 bolt. I was wandering If the 7 bolt drops right in and you plug all the sensors in and go? I really want to put a 6 bolt in my car please tell me how! Thanks

Got a wierd issue and I am not sure where to start looking. When I "get on" the gas in my 92 TSi, I feel a vibration when the rear hunkers down. ONly when the boost hits over 10lbs and you acceellerate hard do you feel it. Now, I know the rear tires could use a balance, but the issue happens in every gear. I was thinking it could be a rear suspension or bearing issue. Wasn't sure if anyone else had experienced it.

Hey guys just to let you know I'm letting go of my 1G/2G piston rod combo for any 4g63 with 6 Bolt crank. The piston is stock standard diameter (NO OVERSIZED). I will even included the piston rings. The only bad thing is, there is some surface rust growing on the rods but that shouldn't be a problem.



all for 300 bucks.... It cost me about 500 or so for machining and other things.

hi guys, any of you guys block off the FIAV in the 1G eclipse ? i need to know how to do it
what's pros and cons ? some one block off the 2 fittings for the FIAV, i think suppose to be coolant going to it right ? if the fittings were blocked off, do i have to block off some of the ports inside of the FIAV with JBWeld or something ? i try searching but can't find it. thanx
if i want to go back as fatory, doed any one have a picture of how and where the coolant hose coming from ? thermostat right ?

Hey guys I have a 97 Eclipse RS and currently rebuilding the engine I had question for you guys. I want to know if its possible to put power windows and power locks on the RS model and if it is what's requiered to do so Well thanks for your time and knowlege guys

I have a stock 95 eclipse GS-T and i want to push a little more power out of it without breaking the bank. What parts could i get, like intercooler, upgraded turbo, etc and where are some good places to buy.

OK SO my boost meteer wont work or boost control like wats wrong with it ?

Does anyone have a website where I could get a 1g bov?

Hi, My problem is car has been running fine lately but the other day my battery drained itself and it wasn't completely dead so I could still start the car. Had battery recharged and car started like normal again.

Then today I drove over to my friends house to give her a ride to work then when we got back to start up the car it just kept turning over and not firing up then like 30 seconds later it fired up no problem drove it to her work then home about 10 miles... Then I went to leave to autozone for the other car and my car kept turning over and over and over and wouldn't fire up kept doing that for a couple mins then came in the house and went back out and it kept turning over again and fired up and I turned it off and it fired up again and did that one more time...

Its really irritating to have to wait when the car wants to work to drive it. I was wondering if anyone knows why this would happen?


New spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel fiters, fuel pump, distributor, air filter, oil change.....


Thanks for your help!! I really appreciate it

i have a 98 eclipse and the other day i had a flat on one of my rear tires. I have 17" rims and tires. So i add air and then take it off and there is an extreme amount of wear on the inside ontop of the tire, You can feel the wires coming out it towards the car. My dad says its not safe to drive with a tire like that, so the next day I put on the stock rims. Now i notice that all the tires are the same way, with really bad wear in the inside i have pics also. So i was just wondering if something is rubbing on them to make them wear on the inside. There is a bar that curves up and out that is infront of the shock that is pretty close to the tires, so i was wondering if when you hit a bump it would rub on it, or what?
i bought this car used recently so my dad suggested that it might be a bad alignment on another car that they got them off of, cuz the car i got has a pretty decent alignment if i let go of the wheel.
Someone has to know something about this, any suggestion on what this is???
thanks, sry for the essay

I replaced my front two indash tweeters and door speakers with two 6.5" JL Audio TR650-CSI Speakers

I want to soon replace my rear two speakers but I dont know what size they are 6x9 or 6.5" like the front?

I have looked online and I have read both that some have 6x9 and some have 6.5" i dont want to pull them apart to find out either.


also any suggestions on which rear speakers to go with?

what sup guys, my car idle high, it idle at 1500 rpm all the time, no vac leak thought, it was before, but i fixed it, i used the smoke machine and found a large vac leak at the lower left side of the intake manifold, so i took it out and found 1/2 of the gasket was gone at the left port, so i got a new gasket and installed it, no more leak now, the TV cable is loose.

Ok I knw a safc can tune up to 650cc injectors. I also have heard you can run bigger injectors and still tune it. How hard will it be ot tune with 680cc injectors?

Im try to do this with out removing the trans with it. That may be the problem. I have removed everything there is to remove from the block including all of the bolts that hook directy to the trans. I have also unscrewed the what I believe is the flex plate blots from the torque converter. But somewhere inside/ inbetween the block and trans it is still attached. Any suggestions befor I just say fuck it and pull it with the transmission also?

It stock gst except the evo III turbo and blitz bov and hardened ic piping 2 1/2 in. The fuel cuts when the car gets to full boost. In my opinion my injectors are too small and need upgraded. In my friends opinion the Evo III turbo is spooling up faster and hitting max boost sooner then the stock turbo. I dont think he is right but I dont really know. What mods do I need to do to make the fuel cut stop? I have a Greddy e-manage ultimate but I dont want to put it on yet I want to get the fuel cut taken care of first. Thanks

What is the proper engagement point for the clutch pedal in a 1g DSM?

Mine releases all the way at the top of the pedal throw and it's very annoying. Even after having the clutch, TOB, slave/master cylinders, and pressure plate replaced, the mechanic said he adjusted it, but it was still t the top of the throw. Somehow this doesn't seem feasible since every other manual I have ever driven released at either mid-throw or the bottom of the throw.

Also, if I need to adjust it, I know you used the slave cylinder rod under the dash, but which way do you rotate it to increase engagement and which way do you rotate it to decrease engagement?

Whats its hp rating? will it make big power? And how much hp would it add on 8 psi?

Why tke the balance shafts out of the 4g63?

They mount exactly as the OEM ones WOOT ... well spent $50.00
1 screw ... drilled out the old screw and tossed them in i. It took about 15 or 20 min
OEM wiring harness just clipped right in.

hi guys, my opinion is my 91 eclipse GST, the brake suck, so i'm looking sor upgrading it, i'm thinking of cross drilled& slotted rotors, but the single pistion caliper seems like it really small, i wonder if i can swap the set whole up (rotors and dual piston caliper from my 92 Stealth nonturbo), because the one from the turbo, the caliper so big, i can't put stock wheels on. any body ever done this before ? let me know what kind of upgrade you guys do, thanx

Ok guys and gals heres the deal.
My cuzo has a 1995 GSX AWD, the bearing associated with the ring and pinion has gone bad and we cant find replacements anywhere.
The car has sat a our mechanics for 5 months while he tried to locate parts with no luck..im hoping hes just a smuck that didnt really try.
Since the rear end is pretty much torn out of the car at present we wanted to replace the entire works minus diff. housing.
Can anyone point us to somewhere we can purchase these parts?

Thanks for the help...

Did you upgrade the injectors in your evo and if you did do you have them laying around?