Too many people on the forum,say there car wont start but it cranks and tries to start.
And too many people check a few things,give up, and take it to the dealer when they could save a lot of money.CHECK THE CHEAP STUFF FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im gonna help out and all the moderators im sure will add things ive missed but here goes.

#1 If you turn the key and nothing happens,Check the battery.This is simple just use an ohmnmeter to test the voltage.Not the battery then check the alternator and all starting circuit wires.Also check to see if the battery wires are corroded.

If your car cranks over but just doesnt fire up....

First see if there is spark.Just pull a plug,And have someone try to start it. (Need help just ask)
Second check to see if there's fuel at the fuel rail.There will be a test port that you can push and fuel should shoot out.

If fuel does shoot out,then have someone stand by the gas tank while you turn the car on to acc.They should hear the pump prime.

(DONT HEAR THE PUMP PRIME) CHECK the Fuel pump relay.Its a cheap part to buy or you can probe it.You will need a manuel though to see how and what the specs should be.Use a multimeter for that.

If you bleed the fuel at the rail. turn the key to acc and also hear the fuel pump prime..
you could have a fuel pump on its way out(aka its not working all the time),
clogged fuel filter,or a hose leak see if there is a puddle or some leaking underneath.

BUT if fuel is at the fuel rail and you have spark,your injectors may be clogged.
You can also backprobe your injectors to see if they are getting a pulse.

If you work and work and nothing checks out....

THEN TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC AND SPEND THE BIG BUCKS TO SEE WHAT THE HELL IS UP.

REMEMBER ALWAYS DO EASY THINGS TO HARD THINGS,too many times has the problem been a $5 fix and you gave up,took it to a mechanic and spent $500.

You may have already noticed the recent disappearance of pinned topics in the 1g/2g section. They have been moved to the additional "How to" section of the eclipse forum found here: http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php?showforum=104

It is starting to become a great section with TONS of great information, but we need your help identifying other threads with great write ups and "how to's." If you happen to find something you think contains great info please post a link in this thread and a mod will move it to the "How to" area.

Also please feel free to do your write ups in this thread and a mod can split it off to the "How to" area. Names will be cited to give credit for the information.

Thanks everyone for your help!

Do it.

The Truth About Really Upgrading YOUR Car.

Read it, discuss it, input whatever.



E

LOL well everyone should run a holset as a daily driver. It was hard for me to accept it, though I was witnessing it, but this turbo literally spools as fast as my small 16g with identical mods (I swapped between the two and maintained the same boost for the sake of comparison). It's a great street turbo with more top end / peak flow than many "race" turbos.

WRT boost I run, it settles at 28-30 psi depending on the nature of the weather now. Most of this summer I was experimenting with it a 25psi. Which at even 25psi, the heat from compressing the air is still too hot for pump gas and my 20" X 9" X2.5" intercooler. I run a 3gal/hr nozzle for a fine mist plus a 5 gal/hr nozzle for combustion chamber cooling; and run 80/20 water/isopropynol. This is the big h1c from the 1991-1993 INTERCOOLED cummins turbo diesel ram pickup. They have the 54mm inducer compressor wheel. It flows around 3 lb/min less than the hx35. This puts it right at the flow of a 50-trim and a hair more than a 20g.

I can run around town out of boost just fine without injection. The pump isn't activated until about 8psi. This is what almost ALL decent kits allow. So to answer the question: a decent WI kit won't be on all the time bogging the engine and running you out of fluid. Only there when you need it. At a certain boost. Now DSMlink lets these fuel injectors run just as if the factory installed them: perfectly stoich (14.7:1). 14.7:1 is ideal for fuel mileage and doesn't require knock supression when out of boost, as this is how the factory ecu runs you when unmodified and out of boost (closed loop). Beating around with it is just like any other dsm with 272-style cams. On boost is where things change. . . My dsmlink logs showed 2lb/min more airflow at 2psi LESS boost from the holset at the same rpm , around 5200rpms. The reason is because the wheels are much more efficient. More energy is converted to boost instead of wasted as heat. So less exhaust gases are needed to achieve a pressure threshold. Ball Bearing has nothing on simply more efficient turbine wheels and compressors.

Since it rises to 30 psi by 3400rpms, if I were to play with it at all, most certainly knock supression is neccessary for pumpgas.

Did Your Topic Disappear??


Does your car have a 420A engine?
Is your car a Non turbo Mitsubishi Eclipse or Eagle Talon?

If you answered yes or I don't know then click here because your topic and question will be able to be answered more efficiently in this section.


Thank you,

-Eclipse Moderation Team

just kinda curious if we can get this to kick off in the mitsubishi forums. just post a comment of what you did and we can see if we can keep this going! it doesn't have to nessacarily be today. can be anytime that u just want to throw out there. u can post pics if u want to show what you did as well. its up to u. have fun with it!

like ill start it and hopefully we can keep this going.

Today i got the exhaust on and got the new rims mounted

and last week i put the CAI on, racing seats, new headunit, and projector headlights.

Took my Eclipse for a run this evening, ostensibly to tweak the new headlights aim a bit more, but mostly to enjoy it ! I noticed when it rolls to a halt, it's started to get a little sticky as in excessive resistance present. When I got home I did a hand temperature check on the wheels, and the left rear is the obvious culprit, the caliper isn't fully releasing.

I had the same problem with the oem right a couple years ago and got a replacement through PepBoys (they had to do a little hunting.) The left is also oem and I should probably have replaced it as well, but I was especially cash tight at the time. In hunting online they seem a little hard to locate -- my GSX is a September '89 build according to the pillar label, VIN 'U'.

I'll call PepBoys tomorrow and see if they can track one down, but I was wondering if anybody knows of a reasonable supplier? Parts.com is $147.25 new shipped (no core) and Car-Stuff is $131.73 rebuilt shipped, including a refundable $51.28 core charge (plus I'll have to ship the core, of course).

ok when im driving every thing is fine but when i put it in neutral to coast my lights dim noticeably i can rev p and see the difference. i do need to fix my idle since it is only around 700 or so could that cause it?

Ok so This will be my NEW Build thread since my previous one became cluttered and pointless. So here it goes. I will post process here occasionally (And slowly.. lol) I will also be filming the build when I actually start the process.

Here is a list of mod to expect (Items already obtained are marked with a *):

Turbo Setup:
*-T3 57 trim (.63 A/R)
-1g BOV
-CXRacing FMIC
-Custom 2.5" IC Piping
-Custom 3" Intake Piping
-Custom Turbo Manifold Flanged for Tial Wastegate
-Tial 38mm Wastegate
-SBR MBC
-Megasquirt-II
-SS Oil feed line
-SS Oil Return Line
-Vacuum Line
-Silicone Couplers
-Various Gaskets
-Custom 2.5" Downpipe
-CXRacing Dump tube

Engine & Exhaust:
*-Magnaflow Street Series Muffler
*-Magnaflow unit Universal High-Flow Cat
*-2.5" piping from cat back
-Schneider Camshaft
-bore .040 over
-Custom Ross 9:1 pistons (+0.040")
-Eagle Connecting Rods
-Fel-Pro 12mm Head Bolts
-Port and Polished and Resurfaced head
-Custom Oversized Titanium Valves
-Custom Oversized Titanium Valve Springs
-Beck/Arnley Rod Bearings
-Beck/Arnley Main Bearings
-Knife-Edged Crankshaft
-Cardone Water Pump
-Melling Oil Pump
-Dayco Timing Belt

Ignition:
*-NGK BPR6ES-11 Spark Plugs
-MSD Super Conductor Wires

Fuel:
-Black Top 450cc Injectors (will eventually go bigger)
-Walboro 255 fuel pump
-Aeromotive FPR Return Kit

Monitoring Equipment
-AEM UEGO Wideband kit
*-GlowShift boost gauge
-Prosport EGR Temp Gauge
-Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge
-Prosport Oil Temp Gauge
-Pocket Logger


Suspension:
-Eibach Lowering Springs Pro-Kit
-Megan Racing F&R Strut tower Bars


Drivetrain:
-OEM Tranny Rebuild
-Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
-ACT 2600 clutch with street disk

Exterior & Lighting:
-OEM Carbon Fiber Hood
*-Euro Crystal Headlights & Corners
*-Repaint and repairs (White)
-Tinted tail lights (Black) (Maybe)
-5% tinted windows (Black)
-Sparco Hood pins
-Blue 17" Volk TE37 Wheels (Currently have 17" Motegi MR-7's)
*-BFG G-Force Tires
-Carbon Creations Carbon Fiber Wind Splitters - Front

Interior:
-Reupholstered interior
-New OEM Dash, panels and Trim
-Custom Sub Enclosure

Audio:
-Jensen 7" touchscreen Head unit
-2x Kicker dual CompVR 12" subs
-Kicker KS 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
-Kicker 4 channel ZX Amp
-Kicker KS 6"x9" Coaxial speakers
Lots of custom work will go into this, but I figure it will no doubt be something worthwhile. At the very least it will be different. I also hope to get a spot in a magazine. lmao! I hope to finish the premature turbo along with SOME of the engine mods by April of 2009. Wish me Luck!!

Also, any criticism will be welcomed with open arms!

Pics Will arrive once It is out of the body shop. =)
__________________

After installing Eibach Pro-Kit springs on my 1990 GSX, I had the car aligned and identified two problems. One was the right front camber was out -.5 degree (since corrected with a FastCam bolt), and the other was the left rear toe was slightly out at the camber limit. The rear measurements were left camber -2.1 (range = -2.1 to -1.1 degrees) and toe .32 (range = .02 to .26 degrees) and right camber -1.7 and toe .09. Cross Camber was -.4 (range = -.3 to .3 degree), Total Toe was .42 (range = .04 to .52 degree) and Thrust Angle .12 (no range specified).

Since the Pro-Kit only lowers by about 1", I was expecting the rear camber and toe adjusters to bring it in, and so I was looking it over a couple days ago and discovered the left rear toe adjuster was VERY loose, plus the nut was frozen to the bolt. The right rear toe adjuster was tight, but semi-frozen, the two camber adjusters were in better shape, but still excessively stiff. So, I pulled the toe adjusters apart and got them both working smoothly, as well as freed up the two camber adjusters.

Took it back to be aligned with properly functioning adjusters and the left rear simply won't come in, and it looks like the toe and camber results got worse instead of better. It ended up left rear camber -2.7 and toe .21, with right rear camber -2.0 and toe .16, with Cross Camber -.7, Total Toe .37, and Thrust Angle .02. It's clear that with the left toe adjuster set to max toe-out, it still needs help from the camber adjuster to reach the toe spec, and that help comes at the cost of excess negative camber. Seems really perverse that the numbers with the malfunctioning toe adjuster were actually better !

I've been trying to translate the Mitsubishi 1990 Eclipse shop manual's toe deflection calibration units (in/mm) into the angular units of the alignment report. Idea being to calibrate the toe adjuster scales in degrees instead of in/mm. Best I can come up with is given a full wheel diameter of 24", and one adjuster division is .08" (the manual), an aproximate hypotenous of 12" divided into a .08" deflection gives an arcsine of 23' (.38 degree). The camber adjuster also changes the toe -- .035" per division (the manual), which translates into 10' (.17 degree). To me, these numbers show a high sensitivity to the adjustment divisions and it makes me wonder if my geometric model is the same used by the alignment readout, though I would think it would have to be.

So, if I wanted to back off the left rear camber to bring the Cross Camber into spec, I'd have to bring it to -2.3, a difference of +.4, where the camber adjuster gives 15' (.25 degree) per division (the manual) -- that's 1.6 divisions on the adjuster. That would also have the effect of increasing the toe-in by 1.6x.17=.27 degree! The current toe-in is .21, so it would become .48 which is .22 degree out of spec.

Wish I could confirm the actual toe angle change resulting from the two adjusters actions, but don't see how. Any input regarding the above and how to best setup this rear?

Thanks !

Hi everyone.

I am losing my mind trying to work this trans problem out.

1999 eclipse spyder, 2.4L, automatic trans.

one day, just left the house and get a 1/2 mile down the road, notice the car won't shift. It is stuck in 2nd, typically but has no reverse. Getting an error code of P1750, which is for a bad solenoid.

I get hold of a guy with solenoids but he talks me out of buying them saying he has loads of experience with these cars and it is something internal.

So, I rebuild the tranny. It needed it having a burnt up clutch pack and broken low/reverse spring.

so, all is together and installed and I am hacing the exact same problem.

so I try a different TMU... same thing.

so I try solenoids from another car.... same thing.

so I try pulse generators from another car... guess what? same thing.

nothing thus far has corrected the problem. wtf?

maybe I should mention that the only thing I did before the problem first occured was change trans fluid and filter... I just read on here that this can cause problems... what kind of problems???

any ideas are more than welcome. this is just driving me freaking crazy!!!

In case my description of the problem isn't clear, I have no reverse and only 2nd gear typically. I can shift into Low and then into second but it will shift hard.

Well not sure on really what is up here. Its starting to get on the cold side out here mid 40's. Anyway, when I go to start my car, it has to turn over for a good MINUTE before starting. Also when it starts, its kinda loud and sounds like internals in block. Now yes it gets louder when gas is applied, but once warmed up, the sounds is very faint.

I was telling the gf this mourning cause she thought it was going to break, that it was time for a rebuild. I was wanting to have everythig stripped and rebuilt, but it is our only car YUCKY. So now what should I be worried about in my case?

Does the car still get up and go? YES
Whats MPG like? um like 16-21 TOPS
Motor? 4g63NA
Auto or 5spd? 5spd

Recently took care of a ton of stuff under the hood. Im inprocess of getting new coil pack and FPR and fuel filter

Maybe Im just trying to keep a dead horse alive?

We just got my car back together last week and we are planning on using a wideband and apexi safcII for tuning....will I need a dsmlink because of upgrading to 850's? I mean we were planning on starting it and figuring out some of the fuel stuff on wednesday...I'm running a 50 trim with 280 cams and two fuel lines with now as well. I can list the rest of the stuff if needed. Thanks,

cjsavage

Ok...so when I was checking things over for inspections I see that I have a headlight out...I was in kind of a rush so I did not take the bulb out to change it I'm doing that tomorrow when I have more time. My question is that the old owner had HIDs installed with ballasts and cleared out headlights and there is a box under the hood that goes to the headlights...do I need a special brighter bulb/ is this something I am going to have to order? Just wondering if I could just use one of those super bright bulbs you can get at the parts store?

Sometimes when i take a turn mostly to the right i will get this weird creaking noise for a few yards then it will go away. it will carry through when im driving straight for a bit also but goes away soon. i cant feel anything just the noise sounds awful. i dont know it could be. it seems to becoming more persistant. any ideas? i have a feeling this could be major

ok so i was putting on my new turbo and manifold, but ran into a problem my wastegate is too big to fit, it wont fit between the powersteering pump and manifold its just to long. now my question is could i use a bov for a wastegate? its just a 2 bolt flange so if i put a bov on there would it work for now til i get 300 dollars for a wastegate.

hey guys,

my car has been idling very rough lately. This happened a few months back after it rained real hard and went away after a day so i didnt think much of it. Now it has been idling really rough (idling i mean not moving, happens whatever gear its in, moreso in reverse). It spits out white smoke, it doesnt smell that bad so im sure its not gas or oil =or anything. But it idles at about 900, normall its about 1200-1500 in my car.

I have a 1998 eclipse gs with 103k miles on it. any ideas?

oh and i just did a tuneup on the car a few months back, replaced sparkplugs fuel and air filters. ANy help is appreciated

Thanks

okay this might sound like the wierdest thing to trouble shoot, but i fuigered id tell to see if anyone can help me. i think i know whats the problem is but i need a second opinion...

okay here it goes.

so im driving my 1g 5spd n/a to school and back home just fine, then my check engine light comes on while im driving. i always thought it was cause of my test pipe replacing the catalytic converter cause i heard that can throw the engine on and off.

this is how i managed to turn the light off whuile driving at a rate of speed with out taking the car out of gear.

as im driving the engine light comes on and while im doign let's say 70mph and i push the clutch in but i dont take the car out of gear into neutral. i keep the gear in and just push the clutch in and just tap the gas to 2grand and the light shuts off and i keep on driving.

i think its my spark plugs, but then again it could be that test pipe.

i know people who have engine lights come on, they turn the entire car off and turn it back on and the light goes away. mine goes away while the car is still in drive and in gear.

wierd huh?

ok well i was drivin the other day n car wouldnt start got a jump drove a lil died again buy a new battery and alt starts right up runs good. now if i leave my car off for lets say eight hours or longer my batt is dead. whats a good way to narrow down a short that could be doin this!!

Has anyone installed a keyless entry and security alarm system before?
if so how had of a project was it?
i was looking to put a DEI (viper or python) system in my 1st gen.

well got my 1g eclipse's timing belt, water pump replaced today, and also a motor mount was thrown in, and i must say, that there was a HELL of an improvement in acceleration, reduction in noise form engine and i must say WOW.

kinda of a dumb question but can you lose power form a worn timing belt and water pump? cause accelerating and reaching 5grand before causes a wierd knocking noise and i got past 5grand today and no noise?

these dsm's are a mystery beyond imagination.....ohwell, just thought id share

There's a tree adjacent my driveway that likes to drop hard round seed pods during October and November (any more, I try to avoid parking in the driveway during those months.) I've managed to collect about four dents in my hood as well as several in the roof. The local Honda shop recently did a superb PDR job on a door dent in my xB, so I'm thinking of asking them for an estimate for my hood. However, I figure it will probably be on the order of $400 or so, and so I'm wondering if there's something an owner could do to remove such dents. While browsing PepBoys I came across the "Dent King" repair kit "as seen on TV", but I've no idea if it's really even worth the $20. Anybody got any experience with this and have any opinions or recommendations?

Thanks !

unorthodx underdrive pulley
act 2600 with street disk
lightweight flywheel
wally 255 pump
somesort of aftermarket exhaust manifold with tial wastegate
buschur racing 3inch exhaust
ported o2
18g turbo
fmic all hard piping
3 inch air inlet pipe
al Blaha modified airflow sensor
apexi safc
rc 550's

are my currents ones

the car is not built for anything specific..just as an all around beast

I seen it wrk in a spyder but will it mount smoth in a RS and for those who really know wut they are talking about pm me bcuz i have more Q's....dont like false info, thanx

The turn signals and brake lights don't light up and the reverse lights dont work either. The previous owner told me it was the turn signal flasher relay. I was told it was part mb943259 at https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html. I just wanted to get some input from you guys to make sure this is the right part to replace before I go and spend the money. Any ideas/suggestions?

hello i am curantly switching out mt t25 for an forced performance 18g turbo. my question is on the t25 there are two hoses that connect to the waste gate. one comes from the boost pressure selonoid and the other one is comeing from the compressure housing. see pic http://www.plymouthlaser.com/evo16g/install/e16gcomp2.jpg my question is do i need another boost source line or can i just run one line from the boost pressure selonoid to the wastegate.