im having to buy a new engine in my 94 eclipse gs, and i was looking at engines and i have found many turbo models of the engine. If i was to get a turbo model from a gst would i have to change up the drive train?

After reading a lot of Jonbons posts for working on a custom Turbo 1.8 and searching air intakes/short rams, the question that I came into is what is MAF in concerns to a Short Ram? Is it a fitting/size for the manifold or a type of connector?

This is the one that I bought that is being shipped to me now:
MimoUSA Short Ram

Thanks guys. Total noob ^

i just put a new timing belt on my car but now my timing belt keeps wanting to fall off!
i cant figure out why it is doing it, i put the top part of the cover on to see if that did anything but the timing belt still did it and it started to rub a giant line on the cover. ive checked everything i could think of but nothing has worked so far.

does anyone know why its doing this?!?!?!

askin another dumb question. I have been looking for a hole to feed the power cable for amp hook up to go from the battery to the trunk. I am puttin in a small system and right now is just sony 600 w amp and 12" xplod sub. I just want to get this up and working befor etesting out my JL 1600 watt amp and 10" sub. i have the cabe grounded and the hookup from the back of the headunit run. all it needs is some power and its golden. any tips much apprecitated. ive been looking for DIY on here but im still a little confused on how to use this site. TIA

Bumper

Have a 96 Eclipse RS with stock wheels and 195/70 R14 Tires.
Bought a set of 16" wheels from a 98 Eclipse Spyder. Want to put
225/55 R16 tires on them. Will they fit my 96?

Was wondering if anyone knows of a good oil cap i do not care about looks i just do not want mine to leak oil. I replaced the OEM one with another OEM one because i read that after market ones leak anyways. I tried my new OEM one also with a gasket and fixed the little metal prongs to be more snug....that lasted about a week now its leaking out like a mad man on top of the valve cover. Another questions i have would be if i found the correct rubber grommet would it be possible to put a breather in place of that cap? I know with my other vehicle i had a breather but im assuming the oil will just pour outs the breather as well and on top of that i think that has to be sealed shut/capped off.

How hard is it REALLY to replace a front right axle assembly on a 94 Eclipse? My friend that had replaced my clutch with me a while ago found a crack, nothing major, but suggested that I get that fixed in the future before it gets worse. I baby my vehicle so I havn't noticed too big of a problem yet. Now me not being the most mechanical savvy person in the world would most likely need help but is this something that would be much harder than an "easy fix?" After checking out the procedure it seems like it is fairly simple but not having a compressed gun for specific torque on the bolts might pose to be a challenge.

Opinions? Suggestions?

well my car has been sitting for over a month with no head or intake manifold on it, i finally got everything i need to put it together and its almost done but ive ran into a problem....i kind of forgot where the vacuum lines go from the top of the throttle body, and also the ones coming off of my waste gate to the sensor on my air filter box.

so basically im wondering if anyone here knows where these hoses go or if anyone knows where i can find a diagram....

Thanks.

Ok, here's the deal. I could never figure out why my car was having a lopey idle and would seem to hit fuel cut at approx 4K RPM. Well, when I performed the "hack the bov dump tube" mod, I had my answer. My MAF is HACKED! The two side honeycombs are completely gone!

I googled it, and the symptoms match perfectly with that condition. Hacking a 2g MAF can "mess up your idle and cause a lean condition around 4K RPM!

So here is my question: Does anyone have a 2g MAF they are willing to sell? I don't care if it works or not, as long as it has the honeycombs still in it! I will also consider purchasing a GM MAF with MAFT if I can get one for a good price.

PM or post what you got and how much you want for it, or if you know of any cheap places to get one. (Exclude junk yards! That's kind of a given!)

Does anyone know were i can find a oem cargo carpet for a 96 eclipse spyder. You would think they would be easy to find online.

I was driving my car all day without any issues and then after parking my car and turning it back on the SRS Light is ON!

What can I do? How can I reset it or see why it is on?

well i'm at a cross road again.....i did this post a while back when i was wanting to build a n/a 2.0 4g63 n/t motor......now it's coming back if this dude doesnt buy my car.

i checked slowboy racing and buschuracing and found everything i want except for pistons and cam's.

the highest compression i saw was weisco 9:1 pistons. anyone know if theres a higher compression liek a 10, 11, 0r 12?

cam's i heard you can use turbo cams cause there almost the same? is that true or not? cause i might consider evo cams then.....

this is just an idea that's been brought back up cause i was looking at my car and i think i might hold onto it and just build it once i get out of school.

my goal is to eventually build a sick 200+whp honda civic hatch or coupe with a b-18c1 gsr motor and have a lot of fun at beaverun raceway when im in my late 20's.

thanks for the help if anyone has some info to help me out.

DISCLAIMER: This write-up was NOT done by me, nor did I influence it in any way. The rights to this write-up belong exclusively to KFT of DSMTalk.com

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181058

I plan to do this soon. I will elt you all know how it goes and post any additional tips.

NOTE: This requries the use of the 1g Euro Crystal Clear headlights.

Just bought a '97 Eclipse Spyder and the aftermarket radio will stop producing sound, even though it has power and apears to be working. It finds stations when seeking, etc. Is there a self-resetting protector for the speakers? I have the sub under the passenger seat, but don't know if its being used. The "DIN" connector under in the console does not hook up to anything. The big plug on the back of the radio is "spliced" into the wiring harness. Do those wires go straight to the speakers, or through the amp? I bought a new radio - still does the same thing. I figure it can't be a fuse because it fixes itself every once in a while. HELP!!!

brought the 95 up for the weekend today. had some problems on the highway.

First off, my father jacked my wires and threw his older ones on mine which i am hoping is the cause of my prob.

The car sputtered a lot over 3k rpms, just quick shots of no power if you will. Then it started getting worse, sputtering long enough for the rpms to drop to zero. If i popped the clutch and gassed it a little it would be fine, but sometimes when i couldn't catch it, it would legit die. As im on the express lane on the highway and i physically could not pull over (unless i wanted to run into a concret wall ). clutch started it in 5th and everytime i had to do this i got a really loud backfire and a pop.

Please tell me this is just the wires...

i should mention that all this seemed really sporatic. if it wasn't sputtering it drove perfect. Full boost and seemed perfect. took it out on the backroads to see if i could further diagnose it. Didn't even sputter... Really random timing

have a borescope (boroscope, endoscope, whatever you want to call it) that i could borrow?

i need a new data cable from my stereo to amp the one i have know is loose or something. where can i buy one?

[attachmentid=8675]

Im will be dropping these parts in with the stock Auto. Transmission.

Sure it would be great to upgrade the transmission but the one I have works fine. And if I did purchase a new transmission wouldnt it be cheaper and better to convert to standard? All labor done my self.

Who would want to meet at hooters in Reading, PA in roughyl 3 weeks for a mini "end of the summer" thing?

I know this is a stupid question, but Im not even near my car for about a week, and I want to order an HID kit so its there when I get back. What type of bulbs are stock for low-beams?

here a list of basic mods i plan on doin info and constructive criticism is appricated i am a noob at this.

http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/HED36074.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eclipse-89-...sspagenameZWDVW

http://www.modacar.com/products/Mitsubishi...UK/pulleys.html

the car looks a little ruff i will post pics sum time but go is before show.

if there are any other basic parts feel free to send me a link or if u have other suggestions!!

I know what water methanol injection is and how it works. I am just wondering if it can be used on a daily driver? I have looked at all of the kits and I want to know if there is a way to toggle the system on and off so that it is not wasted on trips to school or if it is best to just leave the system on at all times. Or is it just best not to have it on a daily driver at all? Are the kits hard on a motor (in my case a 4g63)? I have a 97 GSX that is all performance.

I drove three 2g cars and they all have problems getting into third gear.I thought this was normal on these cars and it shouldnt be. Now a buddy at the shop said its "crankwalk" and that all the cars would need this fixed. I dont want this crankwalk buisness.
I know what it is now and how do you check for it.?

I know I wrote a book here but please be patient and read it. I need some help.
Ok, so I bought a 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L 4G37 about two summers ago and have been having some problems with it (it’s a DSM after all). So when I bought it there was surging and dying problem that I was unable to fix so I took it to a mechanic who decided that the ECU was cutting out and so I replaced it with a refurbished ECU. It ran with no problems until just recently but I haven’t been driving it that much because I don’t have insurance. Just about a month or two ago its been having similar symptoms again and I am still unable to diagnose the problem.
It runs fine for several minutes and it seems that the longer it has been since I have driven it the longer it takes to have this problem. For example: If I don’t drive it for a week then it might take 20 minutes to lose power but if I just drove it yesterday then it might only take a quarter mile.
What happens is the RPM’s cut to 0 (it happens at all speeds) and sometimes surge back up and down to 0 again several times before death. When it dies there is a clicking coming from the ECU and you have to wait a minute or two before it will start up again.
I have had several ideas as to what might be causing the problem but have not had any luck so far and I was hoping for some suggestions. I have used the search tool and that’s how I’ve gotten several ideas but I was hoping for some new ones .
I was also wondering if the 4G37 has a coil pack and power transistor?
Yesterday I took a video on my camera of the tachometer when the car starts to surge and die and may post a link to it later if that would help. I would have to upload it first though and I’m to lazy at the moment. Let me know and I'll post it.

Thanks.

I'll be taking my car tomorrow to the "Beat The Heat" which is basically an event were we race against cops at a 1/8th mile.

I'm not expecting a great time, as my car is running rich and needs to be tuned but I want to see what time I can put out. Any advice from regular track runners? ( can be before going on track and or during ). This will be my first time at a track, so hopefully everything goes smooth.

He sells some DSM parts and thouht I would give you guys a heads up


http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=210323

i just bought a cold air intake was wondering if someone could explain how to put it on its in peices dunno if that is normal or not. anyways my first time no directions so i was wanting to make sure i do it right looks pretty easy though.

I have come to the conclusion that the ECU or distributor (or both) may be shot. I can not get any codes from the ECU at all. The needle on the meter does not even move. I have done this test 3 times and thoroughly and correct. The distributor failed the test as described in the Haynes manual. The car has power to fuel pump one minute, then none the next. It does not have any fire. When the problem first started on saturday, I drove the car and shut it off. It would not restart unless I shot starting fluid in it. It would run until the starting fluid was spent. Then today there is no fire at all. Any help on both advice and parts. It is a 1993 Eclipse, 1.8 with automatic. If found an ECU locally for $50 and a distributor for $75. Used parts of course. Does anyone have of these parts for sale? If this does not work, it will be for sale cheap.

Thanks,
Don