have the rear shocks change to its original (from shocks with lowering springs) but after i changed the rear shocks, it looks like this




is this ok? its not balance. the rear part of the car is much elevated about 1 inch than the front which is because of the shocks or the rear. what will i do? can this be solve through alignment?

my check engine light turns on ..i got the obII and says PO443 EVAP purge valve C fail emission control..does anybody know how to fix this???i would really app it the help..

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Hey there people!


A friend of mine had problems with the speedo on her 2G Eclipse (it just suddenly fell to zero while driving down the road). I immediately thought of the speedo gear or cable. She got it checked out and as it happens I was right... but I have never seen the speedo gear / speedo cable / sensor on the Eclipse. Does anyone have one or more picture(s) and/or diagram(s) showing this(these) specific part(s). I would be really greateful for any assistance you could provide. She is 100 miles from here and I'm trying to help her out but it's a bit hard when you don't even see know what the parts look like.

She says the gear is all worn out (the cable must not have been seated over it properly when they changed the clutch on her car 6 months ago)... so it's of no use anymore and she can't remove it either. I'd like to help her remove it so she can order the right part and install it back on. I'm a bit worried that she might have to take the tranny out once again... but I have no idea how all this is even put together on the Eclipse.

So if any of you guys can help out it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Jef


[EDIT: Sh*t! Sorry I made a typo in the title... ]

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i know everybody always say, "get a gst or gsx". well here is one for sale. I DO NOT KNOW THE GUY. i just saw it was posted and thought i would pass it along to you guys. i don't know how good the price is.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47907

Do anyone know where and what the fuel pressure regulator is located and what it looks like? I am only getting 270 miles on a fuel tank of gas. Most of the driving is highway driving. I changed the oxygen sensors and the egr valve according to the check engine light. The check engine light is not on, but this car is guzzing gas. According to the math I am only getting an average of 24 miles per gallon. I know I should be getting more than that. I have a 1998 Eclispse gs with the 2.0 non-turbo. If anyone has the solution, please help me out.

Hey you guys.....i was browsing ebay for a turbo kit for my eclipse GST and I saw some crazy stuff!!!! For $700, you can get a complete T3/T4 setup with turbo, intercooler, manifold and wastegate....what do u think of these kits? Is it worth it or is it a piece of crap???? THANKS

i just want to know if it is worth it to save up more money and go with a full size nitrous system, or just go with something like this. i dont want to much. and how bad will this mess up my engine?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-VCN-500...itemZ8002065545

I hear a lot about crank walk and how you should really be carefull before buying a turbo eclipse...but what exactly is it? How can u tell if it has crank walk? Can anyone describe it for me please?

sorry for a stupid question but its been botherin me

thanks

A/F Ratios, Boost Pressure, Combustion

Ok, I’m bored so I’m going to try to give a very detailed answer to this plaguing question.
First we'll start with a glossary:

AFR - Air/Fuel Ratio, given in standard ratio format, i.e. 14.7:1 means 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel

Predetonation – Or “knock” is the condition when an out-of-proportion AFR, too much boost pressure, or incorrect timing result in combustion prior to the spark plug’s sparking.

Stoichiometric - Stoich for short. This is in reference to a "perfect AFR" An AFR of 14.7:1 is said to be "stoich"

Pump gas - Pump gas is just that, gasoline that you can buy at a regular pump. For this discussion, pump gas will refer to 92 octane fuel.

Boost pressure - Measured in psi (pounds per square inch) of force applied through a fluid in motion. [At least in terms of this discussion] Note: a fluid by definition is a gas or a liquid; air is a fluid

Ok, in order to fully understand this concept, we must first understand some of the basic physics behind the issue. First, we’ll discuss the basic principles of combustion. Then, we’ll discuss the principles of fluid pressure. Finally, we’ll discuss different fuel types and draw them all together.

Combustion requires four separate but equal parts to occur. In fire science, this is referred to as the Fire Tetrahedron (see image below). In the tetrahedron, there are four basic components of combustion: air, fuel, heat, and chain reaction. To create combustion, all four of these components are necessary, and if any one of the four is removed, combustion will not occur. This is a remarkable fragile principle because, not only do all four components need to exist, but they must also exist in correct ratios to one another. This is where your AFR comes into play. If you have too much air or too much fuel, combustion will not exist. However, we’re going to ignore this for this discussion because in an internal combustion engine, there are other factors at play that will cause combustion to occur, just not efficiently. This lack of effiency can rob you of horsepower or destroy your engine internals through predetonation.

Note: this section applies only to forced-induction

Fluid pressure is a surprisingly complex issue. There are two factors at play here. First is the literal pressure of the fluid (the “psi” reading). There is also the volume of the fluid, which is measured in cfm (cubic-feet per minute). Now, to simply say that a given amount of literal pressure is impossible to run in any certain application if completely false. For instance, in my job of fire fighting, holding a fire hose at 100 psi and 200 gpm (gallons per minute) of water is possible for just one person to do. However, at 50 psi, 350 gpm is impossible for even two people to hold. So what am I saying here? Well, the two factors must be viewed in aspect to each other. In a turbo-charged application, a very large turbo at a much lower pressure will cause damage sooner than a much smaller turbo at a much higher pressure. For instance (keep in mind that this in a “perfect world” where these figures actually possible) a T-25 stock 2G turbo on an eclipse GS-T at 30psi will cause less harm than a big 16G will at 20 psi.

Fuel types vary widely. Just on pump gas, for instance, you can purchase 87, 89, or 92 (93) octane gasoline. There are also fuel types like methanol, race gas (pro-gas), and other alternative fuels that can be used in different applications. In this discussion, I’m dealing with purely pump gas at various octane ratings from 92 up to 96. The higher the octane rating, the more difficult it is to ignite the fuel (see the fire tetrahedron section). So, at 110 octane, for instance, it takes either more heat or more air to create combustion since the fuel isn’t as readily ignitable.

To tie these three principles together, there is yet again a delicate balance that needs to be met. This ties in with the principles of combustion and the Fire Tetrahedron. Again, there are more than any one factor that must be viewed equally important when trying to create horsepower from internal combustion. Now, AFRs need to be calculated carefully, depending on the use. For instance, stoich is “perfect” but only in a perfect world. Realistically, a good AFR for forced induction is closer to 11.5:1 or 12:1. A naturally aspirated engine can go slightly leaner than that (say 13:1). The leaner you go, the more efficiently you can create combustion and horsepower until you go too lean and induce predetonation. Diesel engines actually intentionally induce predetonation because they use high compression levels to create the heat necessary for combustion to occur. However, the internals of a gasoline engine are not strong enough to hold predetonation under the control to keep your engine from ripping apart. The more rich your AFR, the less efficient your combustion will be, this results in un-burned fuel being wasted by being injected into the cylinder, and not ignited completely. It is not possible to make a completely efficient engine, though and engineers attempt to make more efficient engines, rather than completely efficient engines.

So, how much boost can you run? Well that depends on all of the factors I’ve just mentioned. I am more than willing to help any true enthusiasts achieve better performance, but only if the enthusiast is truly willing to learn.

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Nitrous

First, to see what it is exactly that nitrous oxide (N2O) does to your car's engine, you must know what N2O is. As its chemical name alludes to, nitrous oxide consists of two nitrogen molucules and one oxygen molecules bonded together. While it isnt flammable, it can support combustion. At around +570 degrees Farenheit, N2O breaks down into its component parts, nitrogen and oxygen. The oxygen then creates rapid flame expansion, and the nitrogen acts as a cooling agent (since N2 is a completely inert gas). Commonly stored in high-pressure containers, N2O is compressed, liquified, and refrigerated to store as much of the gas as posisble in as little space as possible.

Now, how is it exactly that N2O improves the performance of an internal combustion engine? Well, as previously stated, it breaks into oxygen and nitrogen inside the combustion chamber of your engine. Oxygen supports combustion, and nitrogen has no effect other than cooling. When you add oxygen to a fire, the fire will heat up and increase in intensity instantly. However, to counteract this potentially deadly reaction, the nitrogen is unaffected by the chemical reactions occuring around it, and actually acts as a cooling agent to keep the flame under control. N2O was specifically chosen as an oxidizing agent for internal combustion due to this duality. When heat=energy, more heat=more energy. When you harness this heat engery into something useful (spinning a crankshaft) more engery means quicker acceleration of the crankshaft. This of course means quicker acceleration of the flywheel, clutch, and ultimately, tires.

What about the harmful side effects of nitrous injection that everyone hears about? Well the only way I can answer this question is to compare it to forced induction. In a turbocharged application, if you provide too much air and too little fuel to an engine, you will "lean" out the engine, resulting in exhaust gas temperature that are far too high to be contained, and ultimately result in melting the combustion chamber. In the same way, adding too much N2O without enough fuel to compensate can also starve out the engine. The only other real danger of N2O is that, because it's such an efficient and rapid increase of power to your engine, providing too much N2O and fuel will result in more power than your engine can take and can literally rip the engine apart, just like providing too much power via forced induction. Forged rods/pistons, stronger cranks, sleeves, and stronger heads/block are ways to prevent this problem. (See my article about AFR's to understand this better)

Now, to clarify some common mistakes. First nitrous oxide is abbreviated N2O, not NOS. NOS is a name brand, it's a subsidiary of Holley.
In the fast and the furious, actor Paul Walker's car explodes because it catches fire with N2O in it. False, N2O is not combusitible or flammable of it's own and is not explosive in any capacity.
Adding nitrous to an engine will, over time, damage the internals of the engine. This is possible, but not necessarily a result of N2O injection.

Finally, I'll differentiate between the three major types of N2O injection
Wet shot - This is the most popular, and second easiest horsepower gain of the different systems. A wet shot simply uses two nozzles (also called foggers) that spray into your intake piping. One nozzle injects gaseous N2O, the other nozzle injects pure gasoline. These two chemicals combined, enter the intake manifold and couple with the present air/fuel mix to create combustion when sparked.

Dry shot - The same as a wet shot, but without the gasoline. This system is slightly cheaper the wet shot, slightly more efficient, but requires more expert tuning knowledge to compensate for.

Direct Port - The performance purists and highly experienced tuners use this for maximum efficiency, direct porting, just like direct fuel injection, results in ensuring that all cylindars receive the same amount of N2O. Direct port is the most expensive because it involves the most tubing, wiring and installation.

Dump tube - This is a mandatory (by law and for safety according to every race-sanctioning body in the US). It provides an emergency pressure release system in case the tank experiences over-pressure to prevent a grenade-like BLEVE explosion

Note: All this is assuming that you understand the basics of internal combustion. Please do not take this as my telling you to go ahead and install nitrous injection in your car and not worry about it. Just like any major performance upgrade, N2O must be carefully calculated so as not to blow up your engine from mis-use. Also, N2O injection is illegal for street use in every state that i know about. And, for safety concerns, every major race-sanctioning body in the USA requires the use of a dump tube for track use.

is it possible to make a custom turbo kit for a 1.8L 1g?if i bought the turbine and mnidold and **** and the ecu and everything else
could i get the piping custom made to fit? there is ALOT of room under the hood.. i figured it would be possible..

hey whats up guys, i just got a 95 gs-t (18G turbo) and the guy i bought the car off of says if i would replace the stock exhust it would loose performance. i doubt that is true but i was talking to my one friend and he said make sure you dont go to big because you dont want to loose back pressure. so i wasnt really sure what exhust i should go for. i was looking at the greddy and hks one but i dont know how big i should go. so i was wondering what would be the best and how many " i should go. thanks for the help.

Ok, I just purchased a 99 Spyder Gs. It's a really cute little car for me to run around in, but it's not -quite- as quick as I would like for it to be. Seeing as how all of my guy friends try to tell me what I can do and so forth and I'm completely stupid under the hood, I was curious to if anyone could explain to me in simple terms some modifications that might help. My roommate has already some something under the hood wasnt' stock... something about having headers... he was rather intrigued. If I knew what headers where, I might have been excited. *laugh* Anyway, any help that could be through this way would be great. I have some ideas as far as look goes (I do custom paint) but I have NO clue what to do under the hood. Thanks!

i know its possible but how hard is it an dhow to u go about doing it?

This probably isn't that big of a deal since we never drive in reverse except when we backup, but some piece's of Sh*t stole my reverse lights off my 99 eclipse including the covers and the socket where the lights go into, they just left the wire where the socket would connect and then connect to the light. i've looked everywhere, autozone, junkyards...dealerships and i can't seem to find any that are sold without the entire Wiring harness (which i don't need) IF ANYONE KNOWS OF A PLACE THAT THEY CAN FIND ANY OR WHERE I CAN FIND ANY THAT WOULD BE GREAT! Thanks,

Well, since so far i have never drivin my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Turbo at night, i wanted to see what color the rpm and mph and gas, oil etc dials lit up.

i started the engine and they did not light up at all...is there a certain nob that determines how bright or dark they are, OR, did this model not come with them "glowing in the dark".

see i cant be driving on the highway and not know how much gas i have, or not knowing how fast im going...

thx

I just wanted to know what would be better off to go with. just going with a set of lowering springs by themselves such as the Eibach, Tein, or Intrax ones; or do i just spend the extra couple hundred bucks and get the Tokico illumina shocks and struts?

Hello everybody, I wanted ask one of you pros out there, I own a 1990 eclipse turbo gs. What transmission will fit on my car from the second generation and does it fit perfect. 1995 trans. 1998 I don't know and is the second generation
trans any stronger than the first generation trans. Any advice would greatly be appreciated thanks everybody

B&M Short Shifter vs Fidanza Short Shifter
I'm going to buy my shoft shifter next week but I duno whats the best either the B&M or the Fidanza or if someone have any other brand that is less expensive than those.

Thanks

what is a reasonable price for a 2g gsx/gst or a 2g tsi awd with rebuilt or non rebuilt turbo motors

since i went to the mechanic today he suggested and said he didnt want to touch a 420 and this is more than 1 mechanic and said that if i want to do anything look for a new car. he said he has seen some around here for like 3-4k but i have found some for like 6k so yea whats reasonable

My 96 gst is running about 16 psi...i have a stock exhaust which is what i think the problem is (bigger exhaust = more backpressure) i also heard that having a blow off valve can cause turbo lag because it doesnt dump back in to the intake...is this the problem, if not what do you think? thanks

Can you guys please tell me what needs replacing and how much it would cost used?

Few days ago we took it to the shop to have it checked out. Had to get every belt replaced on the car and that took away the noise. Now here is the big problem. The mechanic found that there were bolts missing on the bottom of engine i guess by the transmission. Somehow, someway my flywheel and the transmission are completly ruined. Since Chrysler did the rebuild of the engine, we have a warranty, if they dont fix it then my dad is gonna let it sit there at the dealer =/ Any ideas on what i should do =/

I just wanted to know where I can find a list of DSM vendors in California

I was wondering if you can swap a 4g63 non-turbo, and put a 4g63t in its place? If so is there any under the hood mods to be made? Where can I find some info on the swap?

So after much searching i found a 99 GSX in great shape. This is what i'm thinking about doing to it: Take off the turbo fin and replace it with a fin from a GS. Then debadge it (remove "GSX" sticker) and get mesh wiring put in to hide the front mount intercooler. Basically make it look like a GS or RS and go "hunt" civics and acuras to traumatize. What do you guys think of my idea? i know it sounds funny/stupid but seems fun to me.

hello all flame suit is on.

i joined this forum because im looking to buy a 1st gen eclipse or talon awd and am wonering if you guys can help me with some things to look out for. i owned a 91 fwd turbo eclipse back several years ago, but now im looking at buying one to turn into a project/sometimes daily driver.

thank you guys for your help

i just got my head redone but when i start the car and rev it wont boost it goes from -5 to 0 and wont boost anything so is there anyone out there that would know what the prob can be? any help would be great. thanks

[attachmentid=1241][attachmentid=1241][attachmentid=1242]I noticed that there are 2 different front bumpers between 95-99. If I buy a GST with a front bumper that I dont like will I be able to switch it with the other bumper between the years of 95-99?

hey everyone... my turn signals in the front stopped working. my rear lights work just fine... i checked the bulbs first... and they were good... then the little thing under the head unit and changed it out for a diferent one... and that didnt work... o this is on a 94 eclipse 1.8l... so yea.. anyone have any suggestions? thanks
swade

I am the proud new owner of a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse and I have a question. I was given the car and the body and interior is in excellent shape but the previous owner had a fire under the hood and everything is burnt(wires and all). I just wanna know if its even worth repairing the car and how much do you guys think it would cost to do so. The top of the engine is burnt but the rest is fine. How much am i looking at here?

this question is probaly in the wrong area of the forum, but im used to getting answers from u guys.. so wat the hay.. my cousin told me its possible for me to put on rotors on the back wheels of my fwd rs. the rortor thing is obvious.. but he also said i could install brakes that would function just like the front brakes.. basicly he said i could have all wheel brakes with only front wheel drive.. is this really possible? if so, im sure that there has to be some major work done just for that.. would it really be worth it?

i have a 1.8 sohc 3G73 1g motor i feel like it has some potential but is there anything i can do to give it a nice lil kick?