dont know if it works

http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-...ice-Manual.html

I've compiled a list of various sources for aftermarket parts for our cars.  If anyone comes across a site i did not mention, please post up. I will try to keep this list updated.

Tearstone Performance 3G Performance Parts

Sport Compact Customs Unique Specialty Items for Mitsubishi including Carbon Fiber Hoods, etc.

WeSellCarParts Quality Aftermarket Parts

http://www.deyemeracing.com soild/firm motor mounts

http://www.tialsport.com wastegates BOV's and more.

http://www.turboxs.com BOV's boost controllers.

http://www.summitracing.com again not much for our cars but they do have plug wires etc...

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ good info and some hard to find parts from the 2G that will work on our cars. Not to mention a ton of stuff for the 3g as well. 

http://www.titanmotorsports.com Gauges

A wheel is comprised of 3 parts: RIM, HUB, and SPOKES. By calling them a set of "rims", you're referring to the wrong thing. It's WHEELS. Several people try to argue this concept and claim it doesn't matter, when in fact it does. If and when you move into TRUE high quality custom parts and plan to refer to items as the wrong thing, you will end up buying the wrong item. Call Volk, Enkei, Weds Sport, etc. and order a set of rims and watch what you get in the mail, you will get replace RIMS, which is the biggest advantage to a 3-piece wheel.

Here's a fantastic example to read:
http://www.carbonfibergear.com/weds-sport-...on-fiber-wheel/

Notice at what point RIM is referred to in the article. This is a dry carbon fiber wheel or an option to have a dry carbon fiber hub with aluminum rims.

Consider yourself educated and please use the proper terminology and en grain this concept into your peers.

This is quoted from the very knowledgeable "RyanS."



******DISCLAIMER**********

This is for the retard emailing me accusing me of stealing this without giving credit to the website it was posted on. I am not going to give credit to the website because the website didn't write this. I have given credit to the actual guy who wrote it(RyanS). If you don't like it, get over it.

PDF Files

2000 Eclipse

2001 Eclipse

2002 Eclipse

2003 Eclipse

2004 Eclipse

2005 Eclipse

Click here for service manual

Chaptered Selection:

Preface - Volume 1

Preface - Volume 2

Preface - Volume 3

Preface - Volume 4

Group 00 - General Body and Chasis

Group 00E - General electrical

Group 11A - Engine Mechanical 2.4L

Group 11B - Engine Overhaul 2.4L

Group 11C - Engine Mechanical 3.0L

Group 11D - Engine Overhaul 3.0L

Group 12 - Engine Lubrication

Group 13A - Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) 2.4L

Group 13B - Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) 3.0L

Gropu 13C - Fuel Supply

Group 14 - Engine Cooling

Group 15 - Intake and Exhaust

Group 16 - Engine Electrical

Group 17 - Engine and Emission Control

Group 21A - Clutch

Group 21B - Clutch Overhaul

Group 22A - Manual Transaxle

Group 22B - Manual Transaxle Overhaul

Group 23A - Automatic Transaxle

Group 23B - Automatic Transaxle Overhaul

Group 26 - Front Axle

Group 27 - Rear Axle

Group 31 - Wheel and Tire

Group 32 - Power Plant Mount

Group 33A - Front Suspension

Group 34 - Rear Suspension

Group 35A - Basic Brake System

Group 35B - Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)

Group 35C - Traction Control Systel (TCL)

Group 37A - Power Steering

Group 42 - Body

Group 51 - Exterior

Group 52A - Interior

Group 52B - Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)

Group 55 - Heating and Air Conditioning

Group 70 - Component Locations

Group 80A - Configuration Diagrams

Group 80B - Splice Locations

Group 90 - Circuit Diagrams

Index - Volume 1

Index - Volume 2

Index - Volume 3

Index - Volume 4

For all you guys and girls out there who want to do modifications to their 3G, I have made a list of a number of parts that you can start with. These are parts that I would recommend. If there are other parts that you want, don't let me stop you from getting them. Remember, it is YOUR car.

You will notice that not all of these modifications will increase your HP. Some will increase handling and braking. You will also notice that I will not list any stereo systems, undercar neons, decals, body kits, or any other visual mods. These mods are strictly for the performance of the car.

------------------------------------------------------

First and foremost, I want to get this out of the way. THERE IS NOT CHIP MADE FOR THE 3G. THE PIECES OF CRAP THAT ARE SOLD ON EBAY ARE A JOKE. THE JET MODULES CANNOT DO ANYTHING FOR YOU. THROTTLE BODY SPACERS WILL DO NOTHING BUT LIGHTEN YOUR WALLET. SO WILL ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGERS AND THE "TURBONATOR". If you want to spend your money on these, you can feel free to send that money to me. You will get the same reward out of it.

------------------------------------------------------


With that being said, we will start with the most basic mods then work up....


Intake

AEM/Injen/K&N - These three CAI are basically the same. You won't go wrong with either one of the three you decide to buy. You may hear people talk about CAI vs. WAI. Neither one is better than the other. They will both give you about the same HP gains. Some people say that a WAI is louder so they like that better. Either way you want to go will be good. The only advise I will give you is to STAY AWAY FROM EBAY INTAKES. These intakes usually are crap and will not fit.

You can usually get the name brand intakes from most online vendors. Check with www.wesellcarparts.com for RELIABLE and GOOD pricing on intakes.

Exhaust

There are a number of manufacturers that make exhausts for the 3G. GReddy, JIC, Apex'i, HKS, Borla, Magnaflow, Injen, Razzi(dual exhaust), and Invidia. All of these, with the exception of the HKS, are full cat-back exhausts. You can also get most of these from www.wesellcarparts.com. Exhausts are ok to get from Ebay, but research the seller before buying, just make sure you are NOT buying a knock off or "Greddy STYLE exhaust", STYLE meaning - knock off.

And to make things better, any exhaust that is made for the 2G GS-T(not GSX) will also fit the 3G with minor modifications. These modifications can be made by a muffler shop for very cheap.

These exhaust will give you next to nothing in the performance aspect, but they will make the car sound awesome. Not the raspy, **** off bubble bee sound that the local ricers sound like. These exhaust produce a low, mellow, deep tone.

You will need to know whether your 3G is a fed-spec or a cali-spec eclipse. If you have a 02+, then you have a cali-spec.

If you have a 2000 or 2001 eclipse, use the following methods to figure out which you have...



IF you have a fed-spec eclipse, then you will have to have modifications made to the exhaust for it to fit on your car. If you have a cali-spec, then the exhausts will be bolt-on.



Headers

Long-Tube

This is where things start getting a little more difficult. I will try to explain this the best way I can. There are two types of headers: Long-tube headers and Short-tube headers. Long-tube headers will give you more HP gain but will also be more expensive than their Short-tube counterparts.

We will start with the Long-tube headers. There are three manufacturers who make long-tube headers for the 3G: Hytech, RIPP Mods, and RPW.

Hytech are the most expensive, running you about $1900. However, they will give you the most HP gain. I have seen gains of 40whp from these headers. These headers are not currently being produced anymore. You can either buy them used or contact Hytech and have them make you a set. Hytech currently only has the headers for the V6. Sorry 4cyl guys. SC-Customs has a set of Ceramic coated HyTech Headers on their Supercharged Eclipse, so ask them for advice if you choose this system. www.sc-customs.com

RIPP Mods also sells long-tube headers for the 3G. They will run you about $1200(V6) and they are said to give you around 30whp. However, I have seen many people get 10whp from these headers. www.rippmods.com

RPW also sells long-tube headers for the V6. They can be purchased from RPW directly (which is in Australia) or through www.tearstone.com


Short-tube

Now for the short-tube headers, there are more manufacturers. Megan, DCSports, XIR, and CMF are all common and basically the same header produced from the same chinese manufacturer. EBay has the same header all over, so it's really nothing special. These headers are produced with limited research/developed, sound VERY raspy, and scavenge. RPW also makes a set of headers for the 4cyl. They are well designed headers and will probably give you the most HP from the short-tube headers. They can be found at www.tearstone.com

OBX makes a pretty crappy header for the 3G. But its cheap, so that is also an option.


Electronics

If you decide to get headers for your 3G, you will likely need some type of electronic fuel management unit to tune the engine. Headers normally tend to make the 3G run rich.

Piggybacks

DO NOT BUY A SAFC CONTROLLER FOR A 3G ECLIPSE. It will do NOTHING as the ECU will automoatically adjust to auto-correct over the settings being fed into it. Your option is either EManage, full stand-alone, or having your ECU Rom re-flashed with a new pre-programmed .bin file.



It can be found at www.tearstone.com

After that, the next step is the GReddy Emanage Ultimate.



Standalone

There are a number of standalones available for the 3G. However, none are specifically made for the V6 and only the AEM EMS is designed for the 4cyl auto. If you decide to go with one of these, you will need to do custom connections for the harnesses. It has been done before, so it's not impossible. Haltech also makes a FANTASTIC unit, however - it is pricey. If you plan on stand-alone, odds are the cost isn't an issue so I would highly recommend Haltech.


Suspension

Shocks/Struts

There are many different combinations you can go with on suspension. The most common is the KYB AGX or KYB GR-2. These can be found at www.wesellcarparts.com

You could also look into Koni or Tokico for shocks.

Springs/Coilovers

You can also look into Eibach Sportsline, Tein S-tech, Tein H-tech, or Intrax. I personally liek Intrax and have used them on MULTIPLE vehicles for WELL over 10 years.

You will see the coilover sleeves all over eBay or through various vendors that you can use with lowering springs. DO NOT buy them as they are nothing more than a manual way to lower your car. This will put extra strain on your struts causing them to blow in time. Additionally, your car will ride like ****. If you think a coilover can be had for less than $50, then you deserve the damage that comes along with it.

True Coilovers

True Coilovers are JIC, Megan, Apex-I, or Tein. A full set will range from $800-$1500 depending on brand you select.

Suspension Bars

The factory strut brace on the front is the best available and does not need to be upgraded. If you still feel you want an upgrade, look for a DCSport front bar. They are now discountinued, but the best alternative. ANything else with "pivot points" will flex and provide NO upgrade and in fact, are a downgrade.

Rear Strut Brace is bst if you use the RRE (Road Race Engineering) or if you get lucky and find a DCSport Rear bar.

Motor Mounts

For motor mounts, Deyeme makes all four(front, rear, and both sides) in flex or firm. These are direct replacements of the stock mounts. No pressing or cutting required.

Tricky part is, Deyeme doesn't advertise the mounts as for the Eclipse. They advertise them as for the 2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe, which is almost the same car as the Eclipse. Go to the following page and choose "2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe" from the drop-down menu on the left hand side.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/

Brakes

There are also several combinations of brakes that you can go with. The most common rotors used are the Powerslot slotted rotors. You can also look into Baer, Stoptech, and Brembos, but they are very expensive. Another warning....STAY AWAY FROM EBAY CROSS-DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS. They are crap and the WILL crack which will cause major health risks. This is one part that you do not want to go cheap on. As I saw someone say on another forum, "Do you want to trust your life on the cheapest part you could find?"

As for brake pads, I've heard good things about Hawk, Porterfield, and AXxis. The Hawk HPS pads dust alot but have excellent performance. I have them along with the Powerslot rotors, and I love them.

Transmission

LSD - Limited Slip Differential

There are two major LSDs made for the 3G: Quaife and Kaaz. Quaife is the most expensive but provides a lifetime warranty on the LSD, even if its damaged from racing. You could find them almost anywhere on the internet.

Clutches

There are a number of clutch manufacturers that make clutches for the 3G. Most notably are ACT and SPEC. You won't go wrong with whichever one you get. Two notes though. First, Exedy makes STOCK replacement clutches. So going with an Exedy stage 1, you are basically putting another stock clutch in. Second, if you plan on going with a Stage 3 clutch, you might as well go ahead and buy a LSD to go with it. There have been a number of guys that put a Stage 3 clutch in and destroyed their stock differential. If you destroy your stock differential, most likely, you will also damage your transmission because of the broken pieces of metal flying around.

High Stall Torque Converter(Autos Only)

Ian(Rezlo) makes awesome torque converter for the automatic tranny guys. He has had many, many happy customers. Search around his page for more information.

http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Sell/HSTC/Jap.htm

Intake Manifold

Now if you have plans of going with a turbo or supercharger, one upgrade that would help out would be to upgrade from the stock intake manifold. For the GT V6, there are a couple of options. You can choose between the GTS intake manifold, the Diamante VRX intake manifold, or the RPW intake manifold.

You can probably find the GTS manifold and Diamante manifold at a junkyard or from a dealer. You can purchase the RPW manifold from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com)

GT to GTS intake manifold swap

Diamante Intake Manifold Swap Explained Briefly

For the 4cyl guys, RPW also makes an intake manifold for the 4cyl. It can also be purchased from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com).


Engine Building

There are tons of combinations that you can do when deciding to build your engine(if you decide to go that way). The ONLY manufacturer that has stepped up to the plate for many of the engine internals is RPW.

Here is a list of items they sell:

RPW Billeted Camshaft
Vernier Camshaft Gears
Valve Springs
Stock conrod modifications
8mm ARP conrod bolt kits
Shot Peened conrods
Forged steel conrods
Hypereutectic Pistons Stock CR 9.0:1
Hastings Piston Rings
Forged Pistons
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 1
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 2
RPW Heavy Duty head gasket
ARP Main Stud kit
ARP Head Stud kit

RPW can also make custom camshafts to your specs.

For more information on these, you can either email them at rpwinfo@iinet.net.au or email Russ(tearstone) at sales@tearstone.com . Russ is a US retailer of RPW.

V6 Engine parts
V6 Short Block Race Engine
4cyl Engine parts

Russ also sells pre-built 4cyl race blocks but he doesn't have them added to his site yet.

Now for the good stuff.

Forced Induction(Turbo/Supercharger)

It is possible to turbo or supercharge the 3G eclipse. There are kits for both. It is your own decision as to which one you want to go with. Both have their advantages and both have their disadvantages. Please read this page.. Difference Between Turbo and Supercharger


Turbo

First, please read this article How Turbo's Work. Also, PLEASE pick up a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is available from Barnes and Noble. These two documents will give you a basic understanding of turboing a car. It will also give you an understanding of how a turbo works. I can't stress this enough...do your research before attempting putting a turbo on your car. You have heard many horror stories of engines blowing from turbos. The turbos DID NOT cause this. It was the operator not knowing what they were doing. You can easily destroy your engine if you don't understand what you are doing.

Don't be scared off by the previous paragraph. Turboing a car isn't rocket science. It can get complicated at times, but with research, it can be overcame.

4cyl Engine

The 4cyl engine is an excellent engine to turbo. If you find yourself feeling down because you could "only" get the 4cyl....hold that head up. I'm sure you have heard of the awesome, spectacular 4G63t engine that is in the 1G/2G GST/GSX. Well guess what, you pretty much have a stroked 4G63t. The two engines are very very similar. The 4cyl engine(commonly referred to as the 4G64) can handle up to about 17-18psi on the stock internals. This is excellent considering this engine was never meant to see boost.

V6 Engine

Well GT guys, I'm sorry but I can't say the same about the GT engine. It is a great engine, very similar to the VR4, twin turbo, 3000GT engine, but the pistons are crap. Pistons from Autozone are better than the crappy ones that Mitsu put into this engine. The engine can run safely at about 8psi on the stock engine. 10psi is pushing it, 12psi is walking a very thin line. The first thing that will go is the pistons. Now once the pistons are replaced, the rest of the engine is pretty strong.

But don't feel bad, because the GTS guys have it even worse. Since the GTS has 10:1 CR pistons, it cannot handle more than 5-6psi before the pistons go. IF YOU ARE WANTING TO TURBO A GTS, YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PISTONS BEFORE YOU EVEN START.

Oh, and forget about trying to piece together a custom kit. You will spend more money piecing it together than if you would have bought a kit.


Supercharger

RIPP Mods has a supercharger kit for both the 4cyl and V6 engines. Most of the information is on their site so there is no need in me repeating it here. However, there is one thing I would like to say. You will see HP numbers on their site regarding their SDS kits. These are CRANK HP NUMBERS NOT WHEEL HP NUMBERS. There is a big difference.

www.rippmods.com

All RIPP's SDS kits require an aftermarket headers.

This is my spill for all the n00bs to look at. If I forgot something, my bad. I seem to do that alot.

If you plan on doing these mods yourself, I suggest taking a look at the online service manual.

If you are looking for more websites....here is another List

RPW's Eclipse Webpage

All RPW parts are available through Tearstone or you can email Russ at sales@tearstone.com.

DISCLAIMER:

I am not responsible for you modding your car, parts breaking on your car, or any use of this information that results in something bad happening to you. This writeup is for information purposes only and I will not be held responsible for your own mistakes. Have fun modding your 3G eclipse.

Last edits made by SC-Customs on 5/31/08

Hey guys I have an 03 GS and was wondering if its reccomended that I use premium fuel with the 4 cyl engine like it is with 6 cyl?

My fuel filler neck assembly leaks when I fill the tank.

If you look in the online manual under group 13c, fuel supply it's #24, called the 'fuel filler neck assembly'.

I can't seem to find this part anywhere online (new).

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks.

My gs started going into limp mode yesterday.
I pulled pan, cleaned and installed new fluid.
Drove around block and was fine, pulled in driveway put it in neutral and it started all over again.
I get reverse and 3rd.
Doesnt stay in limp mode all the time, it goes in and out.
Web sights suggest speed sensor but my cheapy hand scanner is giving me a 1751 generic code.
Just finished valve job and was running great. PlEASE HELP..
THANK YOU

Looking for some help in coming up with a solution for running fog lights with high beams. I've searched the forum and can't find the answer that I'm looking for. on my jeep I was able to bend one of the tabs on the relay to make this happen. I can't seem to locate the relay if there is one and if there is does anyone know which tab to disengage to make this happen? Any and all help would be great. Thanks

For no reason the display on my stereo has vanished ALSO I have no Daytime Running lights. I physically checked all fuses with a multi meter FUSES UNDER THE HOOD AS WELL AS UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH(which is a royal pain in the u know what to get from ground level.

Am a NEWBIE to this site and I love my spyder has been a great car... just one of these hicups.

Any suggestions????
Cheers,

Ken

I just swapped radios into our 2005 gs, I see the car has a powered diversity antenna. I used both plugs at the radio, the larger one will plug into the aftermarket sony radio, I used an adapter to try the smaller plug. The radio feeds the "antenna" lead 12+ power.

Nothing.

Where is the antenna control unit located?

Any common problems anybody can chime in with?

Thanks!

Does anybody have fog lights for a 2000 eclipse? Im looking for a pair of stock fog lights, was wondering if anybody had old working ones lying around, or are parting out your eclipse.
Thanks

i about crapped my pants when i found a wrecked 03 gts at our local pull your own parts junkyard. i got a stripped intake for $30. hope to get the install done this weekend.

post by misobichy


1. Okay it seems I have partially the same probs. My battery and brake light are on continuously, ever since I washed my car (and engine). And now my speedometer and all my gauge lights double flash than stay on for a bit than turn off, this happens 3-5 times on my way to work(11miles).
2. Also I was having trouble with my car needing a boost if sat for over a day without starting, so I got a brand new battery from Can Tire. Shortly after I had more trouble and replaced my negative battery connection, still had troubles so I have since removed my sub and amp. My parts guy said my alternator cant keep up the drain from the sub. What are your thoughts?? And if it is the alt is there a higher amp alt that I can fit in my '03 eclipse GT??

Ok, so i have a 2000 Mirage, i was talking to a few friends who told me i could swap my current engine for an Eclipse or a Spyder engine. i wanted to know if it is possible and what are the procedures for swapping an engine being that this will be my first time.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

So i removed my whole dash to restore it with suede (Will post pictures later) to fix the cracks... It looks nice, except for this

When i was removing and putting back the steering assembly, i ruined the clock spring.. and I need a new one.. Anyone has a spare? or anyone know where I can find it cheaper? Can it be fixed? ... the thin wire inside it is pretty much very wrinkled and wont wind in or out properly......

hey i just got both fog lioghts for my mitsubishi eclipse 2002 gs and i have the bumper with out the fog light spots i gotta install it inside off the bumper when i took off the plastic grill that was on it there was nothing i have no clue how to install them please anybody help oooooo plus i need to get the foglight swith where can i get it

Well I installed a new slave cylinder the other day, and now my tranny's being odd. I'm not sure if my clutch is completely engaging but when I'm in 3rd-5th gear (Manual) if I give it to much gas it simply revs up the engine and doesn't accelerate. Any Idea what the problem could be?

I have a 2003 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs 2.4l. Yesterday was driving home from school and my car started to stall and when i got home i smelled something burning and found out it was the ignition coil. Got it replaced today but my car wont start now. It turns over and get fuel but wont start. What do u guys think could be the problem.

I've read a lot of posts about people having problems with the sound after they put in an aftermarket stereo. My mounting kit and wiring harness should be coming in the mail today and I wanna hook up my head unit. I have the infinity system. Is it really that difficult to just put in an aftermarket head unit without running into problems?

OK, I've searched the archives, gotten some input from other members,
but nothing matches up for me. I have a 3G GT, manufactured in 10/2000
(MY 2001), and need to replace the cigarette lighter. Everything I've read
says "6 screws on the rear console come out, R&R the lighter, and you're
set". Problem is that I find no screws on the rear console (it's smooth all
the way around), none on the inside of the cup holder or the compartment,
nothing. I hate to let the stealership do this. I have the downloaded service
manual, but section 52A-9 does nothing to help me identify the screw
locations. It does look like if I remove the console box that 2 of the screws
become accessible, but I don't want to tear into this (my wife's car) if I
can't complete the job.

Joel

I know it may be pointless to ask this in general. Basically when I pressed the set switch, nothing ever happens, the light is never on. I was wondering, what would be the most probable culprit? It never worked since I bought this car. Or, is it the only solution to take it to the dealer for diagnosis?

Has anyone turned their head lights so that low beams are low, but when you turn to high beams all of your head lights are on? is it as easy as splicing the high beam wires into the low beam or is there more to it?

Forgive me if this has been asked...

I have had my 2000 eclipse gs for almost 3 years. The mechanic told me at the day I bought it, that the clutch was "soft". I didn't quite get it... I knew there were some problem with the clutch, but I didn't figure it out, and it really didn't develop any worse, so I just let it go, and drive it...

Today, I went to the shop to have my brake checked, when the guy told me that my clutch was not shifting normal. I started to recognize and rethink the problem. And here's the details:

Basically, the pedal could not disengage very nicely, resulting the shifting not "soft" but "stiff" (said by the mechanic, he especially pointed out that 2->3 is not very smooth). On the other hand, what i found was that, if I depress the clutch pedal too much in very short period time, the pedal could become loose, and i didn't feel any pressure, and I couldn't shift into any gears. It'll recover, when I release the clutch for a while.

I'm just wondering if this has anything to do with the clutch, or it could be the pedal? BTW: the clutch never slipped.

Any clues? Thanks!!

Hello,
I need to replace the blower motor in my sons 2001 Eclipse GT. It rumbled for a while and now is useless. I need to know where the blower motor is and how to access it. I would appreciate some details if possible as I am not that familuar with his car. Both of us are fairly mechanically inclined once we get going in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for anyhelp you can give.
Tim

well to start off with when i start my car everything fine but when i start moving for a bit with the ac on the belts start to squee. if i turn the ac off the belts stop squeeking. before you tell me to replace them i have already done that. and i check the belts and no cracks in belt and theyre better not there brand new. i was wondering if maybe the just loose and i need to tighten them. thanks for the help

matt

Does anyone know of a reputable independent mechanic in the Tulsa area? We only have one
stealership (which is now on its 3rd franchise owner since I bought my Eclipse GT in 2001),
and I'd rather check my options with an indie like I use for my other 2 cars (German, so I
can't use that indie for obvious reasons). TIA.

Joel

I have a problem. I have a 2001 gt v6, with about a 144,??? miles on it. I was driving down the road a week or so ago and realized that the steering wheel suddenly felt stif or more stif then usual, as I merged on to the freeway the car starts slowing down and the rpm begins to decline, I shift it in to neutral and attempt to start it and when it cranks it sounds funny as if the gears on the starter arent making contact with the flywheel. I end up not messing with it and getting it towed back to the house. Fast forward to yesterday...I finally decided to see if I could figure out whats wrong with it so I realized that the power steering belt was trashed and lightly wrapped around the crank shaft pully and assumed my starter was bad so I replace the belt and starter and it still will not start. It just sounds funny when I try and crank it. The timing belt has never been replaced, I havent checked if theres fuel or spark. Just seemed odd to me...Any help will be appreciated.

My 2002 Eclipse Gs has 156,000 plus miles on it. It needs new brakes, otherwise no issues. I have been maintaining it with synthetic oil and I have never had any engine problems. I am planning on a 5000 mile driving vacation. Does anyone have any averages on how long the engines run?

I want to decide if I should get the brake work done and take the car on vacation.

I had a 95 Ford Probe and for the people I knew who had one, the engines all died at around 186,000.

Thanks for your help!

This is getting interesting. I got off from work today, power the driver's side window all the way down. Then try to get it up a bit, it won't! Drive it for a while, then try again, it moves a bit, then stopped... Got back home, wait half 10 mins or something, try again, this time moves quite a bit, yet stopped in the middle... now, I tried another time, it's almost closed, but still it won't last. Some memory effect, seemingly.

The other window works pretty fine, with the same driver's side switch. My car is 00 GS.

Any ideas what is bad? motor, relay? Just want to get a sense so that won't be ripped off unnecessarily by the mechanics.

Thanks!!!

The A/C Compressor in a 2000 Eclipse wont turn on. There are no leaks and the right amount of 134 is still in the system. When the a/c is turned on in the car, nothing happens. It worked a few days ago. There are no ses lights coming up and a/c light stays solid.

My problem is that after driving for awhile, when you shut it off, the radiator will bubble and fill the reservoir with so much coolant that it will spill on the ground. It really does it on very hot days, the car doesn't overheat and there are no other problems, could this be a water pump problem?

I recently bought a 2001 eclipse gt and it didn't come with a manual. The alarm hasn't been making noise, due to find out the alarm horn relay is missing. I've been searching the net for a part number for it but can't find it. Anyone know the number or where to find one???

I keep changing the bulb on my daughters 03 eclipse spyder. Every time I open it up, it is filled with water. I finally opened it up and started looking at it and comparing it to the other side. Both of them have 2 holes each on TOP of the blinker unit. I ran a garden hose over the hood and I could see the water dripping into one of the holes on the left side, but doesn't seem to leak on the right side blinker.

Why are there 2 holes on top of the blinker and why doesn't the right side take on water. I assume the holes are for the heat, but I don't understand why they are top and why one side takes on water.

The front bumper is in pretty bad shape and I'm putting a new one on next week. Could this be why water is getting in (do the holes somehow butt up against the bumper and since her bumper is in bad shape they are not)? it is just odd that the other side doesn't take on water because I could see the water running over the holes too.

thanks for any advice.

My daughters car has an Infinity MR587251 standard unit with single disc CD. She has a couple of the memory buttons that don't work sometimes.

I looked on ebay and I found an Infinity MR587252 that has the 6-disc CD radio. All the plugs look the same, do you think it will work?

THANKS for an help.

I have a dilema with my mitsubishi. Temperature gauge running hot. Have replaced radiator, thermostat, water pump, radiator cap. Still runs hot and I have noticed running the heat does not bring temperature down and top radiator hose very swollen. If I remove the thermostat, it runs great, but as soon as I replace thermostat, runs hot again. Not going into the red but hot compared to how it was running before this started. Anyone have any idea? no antifreeze in oil, no white smoke from exhaust...

This is not my car, this is a 2.4 with auto. The check engine light is on for codes P0300 and P0442. Any ideas what would cause these two codes? The car runs fine and doesn't seem down on power or anything. We can't feel any misfires but the code doesn't stay away so I'm stumped.

Any help is appreciated. (i did use the search function but didn't get anything useful)

I'm debating putting a full exhaust on my 03 Eclipse Gs. I've heard that deleting the Cat with a test pipe might make the car run richer or trip the O2 sensor. Has anyone experienced this before?

I changed the oil in my son's car and it appears to have water in it. It is an 04 GS. I have heard of radiator problems with these cars, is it possible the water is getting into the oil cooler? What other weaknesses should I check before biting the bullet and pulling the heads. It is throwing a code now, but I haven't had time to check it. He starts driving in a month so I need some help quickly. Thanks for your assistance.

This problem has gotten progressively worse, but is now unbearable. The A/C in my 2001 Eclipse GT is functioning perfectly, but the condensation drains onto the driver's side floor (only, not the passenger side). The drainage is pure clean water, so there's no "leak" in the A/C system itself, so to speak. On a 275-mile R/T trip last weekend with the A/C on the entire time, by the time we got to our destination, there was a puddle of standing water on the driver's side floor. Obviously, there is a blocked or damaged drainage tube(s), but I don't know where to start. I tried downloading the service manual on the main page of this forum, but it is password-protected.

Any ideas on where to look/start to get the drainage tube(s) unblocked or replaced? I really can't afford to take it to the stealership (I've been out of work for quite some time). BTW, I've owned the car since new, and it only has a little over 60K on the clock.

Thanks,
Joel

Ok, hopefully this hasn't been talked about, i did try the search but couldn't find anything...
So, i have a slipping clutch on my 2000 Eclipse GT and i have been asking around for prices for a while now and the first place i went to said $1,500 with a 3 months / 3000 miles warranty, which i thougt was alot but was willing to save up for it, until i found this other place that would do it for 800 more or less and allow aftermarket aswell. Now im wondering if that is a good price and also i would like a stage 1 clucth kit, been looking around found this:

http://www.allreplacement.com/index.php?ro...mp;path=1_2_3_4

which i think is good, but not sure what stage it is, and also this:

http://www.allreplacement.com/index.php?ro...mp;path=1_2_3_4

which comes with a flywheel aswell, but im not sure if its any good. i have a stock everything on the car, maybe someday might put a air intake on but dnt plan on making any serious upgrades so i think the second would be just fine for day to day driving. I just looking for something stronger and better than the stock clutch.

Would appreciate and help and experience

Thanx

My car is 2000 eclipse GS, I recently got an aftermarket window motor (Cardone).

Sorry to open a new thread. I tried to reset according to the manual, when I pulled the switch to operate the motor for about 1-2 mins, it does not stop as the manual said. I feared the motor may overheat and burnt out, so I stopped.

Could anyone let me know how I should reset my window limit switch?

I am not sure if anybody will be able to help me with are issue or not but nothing else has worked so we wanted to post it on here to see if anybody else had any ideas. We have a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. It has an automatic transmission and about 95K miles on it and is driven very easily. We only put about 3500 miles on it last year. Anyway, here is are problem:

About 2 months ago we started to notice that the vents were blowing out cold air when the heat was on and the car would stop. We also noticed that the car would overheat at the same time when this happened when it was cold outside. We live in Central, Pennsylvania. We took the car to the garage where we purchased it from and they replaced the thermostat in it and the radiator cap. We got the car back and the problem seemed to be fixed so we kept driving it but after 2 weeks it started doing the same thing again. We have taken the car back now about 3 or 4 times to be looked at for the same problem but since this happened we have since replaced the thermostat again because we thought we got a faulty thermostat from the company. We also replaced the water pump becaue we thought that the water pump wasnt circulating the coolant properly, when they went to replace the water pump they said that the crankshaft sensor was so bad so we had them replace that, since they had everything removed at this time we also had them replace the timing belt since it would probably need that done sooner or later anyway. The garage did all of this work for about 600 dollars and we got it back and it was still doing the same thing plus the car wasnt running properly, it was running alot harder and it wouldnt shift right so we took it back again and they checked the timing and put an import crankshaft sensor on the car. The import crankshaft sensor fixed the running problems but it is still overheating but it is now blowing out hot air when the heat it is. There was also an idling problem when we got it back and the garage found that that came from a crack in the manifold so they welded that.

So now after about 1000.00 a month of having the car in the garage, we got the car back again and it is till overheating, can somebody please give us some ideas on what to do to fix this issue. The coolant is full and there is coolant in the radiator which means it is circulating, as far as I know. My guess is that there is a leak somewhere that we cant find, they also checked the heatercore and it was fine.

PLEASE HELP, THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ANY ADVICE YOU CAN OFFER!!

Hey guys, after debating for the past week, I ended up picking up a spare car as a project. 2003 Eclipse GT

Body is clean, block is cracked, radiator is leaking, and it needs tires badly. Not bad for $900, right?

Pic:


What would you guys do with this? Just wanting to hear what you have to say.

i have a 2003 gs 2.4 liter 5 spped and i can't get my cruse control to work and don't know how to make it work i have tryed putting it in neutral and 5th gear but nothing happens, some help would be greatly appacieted ~thanks ahead of time~

Ok so a couple weeks ago, I was filling up and all of a sudden all the gas I was putting in was coming out the bottom of the car. So I stop the pump and look underneath and see that it's leaking right where the tube meets the gas tank. I notice that there is a shit hose clamp on there and it wasn't even tight. So I took the hose off, replaced the clamp, and tightened it down and thought that everything was alright but nope. I was filling up again and for the first couple of dollars there was no leaking or even dripping, but then the pumped stopped at like four dollars but I needed an entire tank so that wasn't right. So I put the nozzle back in and it stopped after a dollar or so and then started leaking out the bottom. So my question is, does anyone know what the hell is going on. It wont let me fill up full blast anymore. Is there an actual problem with my car right now or do you guys think someone shoved something down my gas tank and it's restricting the flow of gas to the tank?

I have discovered that when my air conditioner runs, in my 2002 Eclipse Spyder, water leaks into the driver side. I have read online that my evaporator pan is clogged and it needs to be cleaned. Does anyone know how to do that or have a link showing how it is done? Thanks!