 |
|
Topic Title |
Replies |
Topic Starter |
Views |
Last Action |
| Announcements |
 |
|
Announcement: The Offical 2nd Hooters Meet. |
- |
EMC 3000gt |
5304 |
--
Last post by: EMC 3000gt
|
| Important Topics |
 |
|
|
6
|
eclipsed4utoo |
6,710 |
31st August 2009 - 07:43 AM
Last post by: Az3g |
 |
|
|
0
|
SC-CUSTOMS |
339 |
30th April 2009 - 07:01 PM
Last post by: SC-CUSTOMS |
A wheel is comprised of 3 parts: RIM, HUB, and SPOKES. By calling them a set of "rims", you're referring to the wrong thing. It's WHEELS. Several people try to argue this concept and claim it doesn't matter, when in fact it does. If and when you move into TRUE high quality custom parts and plan to refer to items as the wrong thing, you will end up buying the wrong item. Call Volk, Enkei, Weds Sport, etc. and order a set of rims and watch what you get in the mail, you will get replace RIMS, which is the biggest advantage to a 3-piece wheel.
Here's a fantastic example to read:
http://www.carbonfibergear.com/weds-sport-...on-fiber-wheel/Notice at what point RIM is referred to in the article. This is a dry carbon fiber wheel or an option to have a dry carbon fiber hub with aluminum rims.
Consider yourself educated and please use the proper terminology and en grain this concept into your peers.
 |
|
|
60
|
eclipsed4utoo |
19,212 |
12th July 2008 - 08:22 PM
Last post by: bobthecow |
This is quoted from the very knowledgeable "RyanS."
QUOTE(RyanS)
I thought this would help clear up almost ALL engine swap questions like: "Can I put a GT engine in my RS/GS" or "Can I put a 2G turbo engine into my RS/GS." etc...
Just to get this cleared up ONE MORE TIME (I'm getting sick of typing this) - the 1G or 2G motor will NOT fit within the 3G. No No No. The EVO motor WILL because it's rotated 180 degrees from the 2G motor's orientation. But they're essentially the same motor..
Here's how it works for people who dont know:
1G Motor - 4G63 Engine Code (opposite orientation from our cars)
2G Motor - 4G63 Engine Code (opposite orientation from our cars)
NON-turbo DSM Motor - 420A Engine Code (SAME orientation as our cars but nothing else is similar - it's a Neon motor)
2G NT Spyder - 4G64 Engine Code (opposite orientation from our cars)
EVO 1-3 Motor - 4G63 Engine Code (opposite orientation from our cars)
EVO 4-7 Motor - 4G63 Engine Code (SAME orientation as our cars)
RS/GS Motor - 4G64 Engine Code
GT Motor - 6G72 Engine Code (will NOT fit any of the above engines)
Wait.. so whats this orientation thing? *WHY* were things switched? Well.. its more about the transmission than the motor actually. See, nearly every FWD car out there has their motor located on the right-side (like ours) - but during the 90s Honda and Mitsu had their's on the LEFT. Now, this causes a few issues - follow me here: if a motor spins clockwise it'll then spin the input shaft of the tranny clockwise, which then makes the output shaft spin counter-clockwise, which then makes the differential spin clockwise (spinning the wheels clockwise as well). Got it? read that again and connect the dots if you're confused.
Ok, so whats that mean? Well.. when the motor is on the right side (like ours), that gives you the regular 5-speeds forward and 1-reverse gear. Cool. But when the motor is on the LEFT side (like the 1G/2Gs & early-EVOs), this gives you 5-speeds reverse and 1-speed forward.... not very pratical.
So Honda solved this "slight" problem by spinning the motor counter-clockwise from the start. DONE, problem solved. But Mitsubishi instead added an extra shaft to flip the rotation one more time to keep things going the right way. Ahh... extra shaft... more friction, power robbing efficiency, takes up space - great idea.
So this all changed when Mitsu wanted to upgrade the EVO 4's tranny with big ol' gears there just wasnt enough room. So Mitsu moved the engine to the right-side, and decided to do the same for future cars like ours. Ta-da!
Great.. so now we know why the switched orientation - what about the swap? Well, since the 4G64 motor (RS/GS) and the 4G63 blocks are nearly identical, that means that the motor mounts are the same. Hence why an EVO 4-7 engine will drop-in a RS/GS. The RS/GS Starter gets in the way for the EVO Exhaust manifold tho. GT's are a no-go.. they're entirely different and will have more luck swapping in a rotated 6G7? motor.
Anyway, so Mike W said that I had "first dibs" on the EVO motor swap because I've been talking about this for so long (we're going onto well over 2 years that I've been repeating myself here). He gave the incredible price of $6,500 for the full-swap but he got to keep the RS/GS motor to play with. Some poeple were looking into doing an AWD conversion for a long time as well and Mike gave the quote of $10,000 for the EVO motor + EVO AWD tranny swap. Yikes.
Why didn't I do the swap if I've been talking about this for so long? Here's why: like I said before, the 4G63 and 4G64 are nearly indentical. The 4G64 is taller - with a 6mm higher deck height - and the cylinder bores are wider - with an 86.5mm bore. Other than that, THEY ARE THE SAME. What's missing? THE HEAD. But guess what? I'm almost 99% sure that the EVO 4-7 head will bolt directly to the 4G64 block - plug a few holes, add the camgears and timing belt, and BOOM you've not only got yourself essentially an EVO motor - you've got yourself a STROKED EVO MOTOR. Strap-on a turbo setup and you're packing essentially the same setup as you would with the EVO swap but for half the price (note: before any engineer-types kill me, the EVO motor would allow for higher revving but has less displacement - a loooong discussion for another thread).
How am I nearly 99% sure that the head-swap will work? Because DSMs are doing this right now as we speak, but since they're rotated 180degrees, they're using a pre-95 Galant 4G64 block and bolting their 4G63 DOHC on. They've already got the head and need the block+internals. We've already got the block+internals but need the head.. got it?
Great! So why havent I done this yet? One problem: MONEY. Right now importing in EVO parts (especially their DOHC setup) is f'ing expensive. We're talking ~$1500 for a bare head alone. That doesnt include all the DOHC doodads and I just dont have the cash for it yet. To give credit where credit is due, VAISAYUS was the first to start this project - but its still pretty pricey even for him.
******DISCLAIMER**********
This is for the retard emailing me accusing me of stealing this without giving credit to the website it was posted on. I am not going to give credit to the website because the website didn't write this. I have given credit to the actual guy who wrote it(RyanS). If you don't like it, get over it.
|
|
|
0
|
SC-CUSTOMS |
2,848 |
17th May 2008 - 12:02 AM
Last post by: SC-CUSTOMS |
|
|
|
0
|
SC-CUSTOMS |
5,740 |
16th May 2008 - 11:58 PM
Last post by: SC-CUSTOMS |
|
|
|
7
|
eclipsed4utoo |
24,675 |
26th March 2008 - 06:16 PM
Last post by: eclipsed4utoo |
For all you guys and girls out there who want to do modifications to their 3G, I have made a list of a number of parts that you can start with. These are parts that I would recommend. If there are other parts that you want, don't let me stop you from getting them. Remember, it is YOUR car.
You will notice that not all of these modifications will increase your HP. Some will increase handling and braking. You will also notice that I will not list any stereo systems, undercar neons, decals, body kits, or any other visual mods. These mods are strictly for the performance of the car.
------------------------------------------------------
First and foremost, I want to get this out of the way. THERE IS NOT CHIP MADE FOR THE 3G. THE PIECES OF CRAP THAT ARE SOLD ON EBAY ARE A JOKE. THE JET MODULES CANNOT DO ANYTHING FOR YOU. THROTTLE BODY SPACERS WILL DO NOTHING BUT LIGHTEN YOUR WALLET. SO WILL ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGERS AND THE "TURBONATOR". If you want to spend your money on these, you can feel free to send that money to me. You will get the same reward out of it.------------------------------------------------------
With that being said, we will start with the most basic mods then work up....
IntakeAEM/Injen/K&N - These three CAI are basically the same. You won't go wrong with either one of the three you decide to buy. You may hear people talk about CAI vs. WAI. Neither one is better than the other. They will both give you about the same HP gains. Some people say that a WAI is louder so they like that better. Either way you want to go will be good. The only advise I will give you is to STAY AWAY FROM EBAY INTAKES. These intakes usually are crap and will not fit.
You can usually get the name brand intakes from most online vendors. Check with www.wesellcarparts.com for RELIABLE and GOOD pricing on intakes.
ExhaustThere are a number of manufacturers that make exhausts for the 3G. GReddy, JIC, Apex'i, HKS, Borla, Magnaflow, Injen, Razzi(dual exhaust), and Invidia. All of these, with the exception of the HKS, are full cat-back exhausts. You can also get most of these from www.wesellcarparts.com. Exhausts are ok to get from Ebay, but research the seller before buying, just make sure you are NOT buying a knock off or "Greddy STYLE exhaust", STYLE meaning - knock off.
And to make things better, any exhaust that is made for the 2G
GS-T(not GSX) will also fit the 3G with minor modifications. These modifications can be made by a muffler shop for very cheap.
These exhaust will give you next to nothing in the performance aspect, but they will make the car sound awesome. Not the raspy, **** off bubble bee sound that the local ricers sound like. These exhaust produce a low, mellow, deep tone.
You will need to know whether your 3G is a fed-spec or a cali-spec eclipse. If you have a 02+, then you have a cali-spec.
If you have a 2000 or 2001 eclipse, use the following methods to figure out which you have...
QUOTE
On the GT, the easiest is to slide under the front of the car, near the passenger tire. Look up. If you see a big bulky rectangular thing with some pipes coming out of it, you've got Cali emissions. If don't, you've got fed emmissions.
The second way involves looking at some numbers and appears to be valid for 2000 model year Eclipses only. Pop the hood of the car. There is a sticker on the firewall behind the engine. It's behind the intake plenum, on the plenum's passenger side. On that sticker is a series of numbers and letters. If the 2nd to last number is a 9, you've got Cali emissions. If it's a 4, you've got a Fed spec car.
IF you have a fed-spec eclipse, then you will have to have modifications made to the exhaust for it to fit on your car. If you have a cali-spec, then the exhausts will be bolt-on.
HeadersLong-TubeThis is where things start getting a little more difficult. I will try to explain this the best way I can. There are two types of headers: Long-tube headers and Short-tube headers. Long-tube headers will give you more HP gain but will also be more expensive than their Short-tube counterparts.
We will start with the
Long-tube headers. There are three manufacturers who make long-tube headers for the 3G: Hytech, RIPP Mods, and RPW.
Hytech are the most expensive, running you about $1900. However, they will give you the most HP gain. I have seen gains of 40whp from these headers. These headers are not currently being produced anymore. You can either buy them used or contact Hytech and have them make you a set. Hytech currently only has the headers for the V6. Sorry 4cyl guys. SC-Customs has a set of Ceramic coated HyTech Headers on their Supercharged Eclipse, so ask them for advice if you choose this system. www.sc-customs.com
RIPP Mods also sells long-tube headers for the 3G. They will run you about $1200(V6) and they are said to give you around 30whp. However, I have seen many people get 10whp from these headers. www.rippmods.com
RPW also sells long-tube headers for the V6. They can be purchased from RPW directly (which is in Australia) or through www.tearstone.com
Short-tubeNow for the
short-tube headers, there are more manufacturers. Megan, DCSports, XIR, and CMF are all common and basically the same header produced from the same chinese manufacturer. EBay has the same header all over, so it's really nothing special. These headers are produced with limited research/developed, sound VERY raspy, and scavenge. RPW also makes a set of headers for the 4cyl. They are well designed headers and will probably give you the most HP from the short-tube headers. They can be found at www.tearstone.com
OBX makes a pretty crappy header for the 3G. But its cheap, so that is also an option.
ElectronicsIf you decide to get headers for your 3G, you will likely need some type of electronic fuel management unit to tune the engine. Headers normally tend to make the 3G run rich.
PiggybacksDO NOT BUY A SAFC CONTROLLER FOR A 3G ECLIPSE. It will do NOTHING as the ECU will automoatically adjust to auto-correct over the settings being fed into it. Your option is either EManage, full stand-alone, or having your ECU Rom re-flashed with a new pre-programmed .bin file.
QUOTE
e-Manage is an inexpensive programmable fuel management system that allows you to properly tune your factory fuel system without having to change the entire factory ECU system to an expensive "stand-alone" unit. The e-Manage system is a universal "piggy-back" type unit which taps into most Japanese factory ECU wiring, by utilizing the existing sensors. Basic functions will allow the user to slightly alter factory injector duty-cycle (± 20% at 5 preset RPM points) by intercepting and altering airflow or MAP sensor signals. For Honda VTEC cars you can adjust the VTEC shift point. Additional features are built into the system but are only accessible through the use of the e0-1 programmer or our PC-Windows based "e-Manage Support Tool" communication software (Please see our Authorized GReddy Support Dealers for more information). There is a 16x16 airflow adjustment map, larger main injector correction adjustment, upgrade air flow meter adjustment, boost limiter cut, anti-engine stall, VTEC-fuel adjustment, real-time map trace, real-time display, real-time communication and basic Data-logging. With the use of our "Optional Injector Harness" and the software, the unit has the ability to control an additional 16x16 injector duty cycle map and the controls for adding up to 2 additional sub-injectors. If the "Optional Ignition Harness" and the software are used the unit has the ability to control a 16x16 ignition timing map. All of the above maps can also be map-traced in real-time as well. If the factory range of map or airflow meter is surpassed, you can incorporate our "Optional GReddy Pressure Sensor and Pressure Harness" to set larger scales of adjustment.
It can be found at www.tearstone.com
After that, the next step is the GReddy Emanage Ultimate.
QUOTE
In addition to standard e-manage airflow-based adjustments, the Ultimate version includes new and upgraded features. Included is a PC-based Ultimate Support Tool software CD, with an easy-to-use Parameter Set-up, tab menu format and speedy USB communication. Ultimate has improved direct Map control for adding and subtracting Fuel and Ignition. The ability to switch between 2 preset tuning Maps (i.e. Street or Race program) via externally mounted toggle switches. There are Maps for Individual cylinder adjustment for both Fuel and Ignition. There are also options to convert injection and ignition systems (i.e. group or sequential injection and group or individual fire ignition.) An Airflow Output Map option even allows for airflow meter elimination. And when used with a wideband A/F Meter, the Air Fuel Target Map can self-tune an Injector base tuning Map, to speed up initial tuning. There are also built-in Boost, Rev and Speed Limiter-Cut features. To create super smooth operation, there are various fine tuning Correction Maps to adjust for Throttle Acceleration, Vehicle Speed, Water Temp, Intake Temp, Auto Trans Shift, Anti Engine Stall, and Idle. To further aid in tuning, e-manage Ultimate's improved integrated Monitoring, Map Tracing and Datalogging features far exceed any other piggyback controller on the market. Even when not connected to the software, 8 channels of datalogging (at 20msec intervals) can be recorded and stored to be reviewed later. With the Support Tool connected, over 30 channels can be covered. Other new features include: Improved RPM recognition, Warning Settings, Password Protection for individual tuning Maps, NVCS (Nissan), VTEC (Honda), O2 Feed-back, Clean Fouled Plugs, and numerous others in future updates.
StandaloneThere are a number of standalones available for the 3G. However, none are specifically made for the V6 and only the AEM EMS is designed for the 4cyl auto. If you decide to go with one of these, you will need to do custom connections for the harnesses. It has been done before, so it's not impossible. Haltech also makes a FANTASTIC unit, however - it is pricey. If you plan on stand-alone, odds are the cost isn't an issue so I would highly recommend Haltech.
SuspensionShocks/StrutsThere are many different combinations you can go with on suspension. The most common is the KYB AGX or KYB GR-2. These can be found at www.wesellcarparts.com
You could also look into Koni or Tokico for shocks.
Springs/CoiloversYou can also look into Eibach Sportsline, Tein S-tech, Tein H-tech, or Intrax. I personally liek Intrax and have used them on MULTIPLE vehicles for WELL over 10 years.
You will see the coilover sleeves all over eBay or through various vendors that you can use with lowering springs. DO NOT buy them as they are nothing more than a manual way to lower your car. This will put extra strain on your struts causing them to blow in time. Additionally, your car will ride like ****. If you think a coilover can be had for less than $50, then you deserve the damage that comes along with it.
True CoiloversTrue Coilovers are JIC, Megan, Apex-I, or Tein. A full set will range from $800-$1500 depending on brand you select.
Suspension BarsThe factory strut brace on the front is the best available and does not need to be upgraded. If you still feel you want an upgrade, look for a DCSport front bar. They are now discountinued, but the best alternative. ANything else with "pivot points" will flex and provide NO upgrade and in fact, are a downgrade.
Rear Strut Brace is bst if you use the RRE (Road Race Engineering) or if you get lucky and find a DCSport Rear bar.
Motor MountsFor motor mounts, Deyeme makes all four(front, rear, and both sides) in flex or firm. These are direct replacements of the stock mounts. No pressing or cutting required.
Tricky part is, Deyeme doesn't advertise the mounts as for the Eclipse. They advertise them as for the 2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe, which is almost the same car as the Eclipse. Go to the following page and choose "2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe" from the drop-down menu on the left hand side.
http://www.deyemeracing.com/BrakesThere are also several combinations of brakes that you can go with. The most common rotors used are the Powerslot slotted rotors. You can also look into Baer, Stoptech, and Brembos, but they are very expensive. Another warning....STAY AWAY FROM EBAY CROSS-DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS. They are crap and the WILL crack which will cause major health risks. This is one part that you do not want to go cheap on. As I saw someone say on another forum, "Do you want to trust your life on the cheapest part you could find?"
As for brake pads, I've heard good things about Hawk, Porterfield, and AXxis. The Hawk HPS pads dust alot but have excellent performance. I have them along with the Powerslot rotors, and I love them.
TransmissionLSD - Limited Slip DifferentialThere are two major LSDs made for the 3G: Quaife and Kaaz. Quaife is the most expensive but provides a lifetime warranty on the LSD, even if its damaged from racing. You could find them almost anywhere on the internet.
ClutchesThere are a number of clutch manufacturers that make clutches for the 3G. Most notably are ACT and SPEC. You won't go wrong with whichever one you get. Two notes though. First, Exedy makes STOCK replacement clutches. So going with an Exedy stage 1, you are basically putting another stock clutch in. Second, if you plan on going with a Stage 3 clutch, you might as well go ahead and buy a LSD to go with it. There have been a number of guys that put a Stage 3 clutch in and destroyed their stock differential. If you destroy your stock differential, most likely, you will also damage your transmission because of the broken pieces of metal flying around.
High Stall Torque Converter(Autos Only)Ian(Rezlo) makes awesome torque converter for the automatic tranny guys. He has had many, many happy customers. Search around his page for more information.
http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Sell/HSTC/Jap.htmIntake ManifoldNow if you have plans of going with a turbo or supercharger, one upgrade that would help out would be to upgrade from the stock intake manifold. For the GT V6, there are a couple of options. You can choose between the GTS intake manifold, the Diamante VRX intake manifold, or the RPW intake manifold.
You can probably find the GTS manifold and Diamante manifold at a junkyard or from a dealer. You can purchase the RPW manifold from RPW or Tearstone(
sales@tearstone.com)
GT to GTS intake manifold swapDiamante Intake Manifold Swap Explained BrieflyFor the 4cyl guys, RPW also makes an intake manifold for the 4cyl. It can also be purchased from RPW or Tearstone(
sales@tearstone.com).
Engine BuildingThere are tons of combinations that you can do when deciding to build your engine(if you decide to go that way). The ONLY manufacturer that has stepped up to the plate for many of the engine internals is RPW.
Here is a list of items they sell:
RPW Billeted Camshaft
Vernier Camshaft Gears
Valve Springs
Stock conrod modifications
8mm ARP conrod bolt kits
Shot Peened conrods
Forged steel conrods
Hypereutectic Pistons Stock CR 9.0:1
Hastings Piston Rings
Forged Pistons
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 1
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 2
RPW Heavy Duty head gasket
ARP Main Stud kit
ARP Head Stud kit
RPW can also make custom camshafts to your specs.
For more information on these, you can either email them at
rpwinfo@iinet.net.au or email Russ(tearstone) at
sales@tearstone.com . Russ is a US retailer of RPW.
V6 Engine partsV6 Short Block Race Engine4cyl Engine partsRuss also sells pre-built 4cyl race blocks but he doesn't have them added to his site yet.
Now for the good stuff.
Forced Induction(Turbo/Supercharger)It is possible to turbo or supercharge the 3G eclipse. There are kits for both. It is your own decision as to which one you want to go with. Both have their advantages and both have their disadvantages. Please read this page..
Difference Between Turbo and SuperchargerTurboFirst, please read this article
How Turbo's Work. Also,
PLEASE pick up a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is available from Barnes and Noble. These two documents will give you a basic understanding of turboing a car. It will also give you an understanding of how a turbo works. I can't stress this enough...do your research before attempting putting a turbo on your car. You have heard many horror stories of engines blowing from turbos. The turbos DID NOT cause this. It was the operator not knowing what they were doing. You can easily destroy your engine if you don't understand what you are doing.
Don't be scared off by the previous paragraph. Turboing a car isn't rocket science. It can get complicated at times, but with research, it can be overcame.
4cyl EngineThe 4cyl engine is an excellent engine to turbo. If you find yourself feeling down because you could "only" get the 4cyl....hold that head up. I'm sure you have heard of the awesome, spectacular 4G63t engine that is in the 1G/2G GST/GSX. Well guess what, you pretty much have a stroked 4G63t. The two engines are very very similar. The 4cyl engine(commonly referred to as the 4G64) can handle up to about 17-18psi on the stock internals. This is excellent considering this engine was never meant to see boost.
V6 EngineWell GT guys, I'm sorry but I can't say the same about the GT engine. It is a great engine, very similar to the VR4, twin turbo, 3000GT engine, but the pistons are crap. Pistons from Autozone are better than the crappy ones that Mitsu put into this engine. The engine can run safely at about 8psi on the stock engine. 10psi is pushing it, 12psi is walking a very thin line. The first thing that will go is the pistons. Now once the pistons are replaced, the rest of the engine is pretty strong.
But don't feel bad, because the GTS guys have it even worse. Since the GTS has 10:1 CR pistons, it cannot handle more than 5-6psi before the pistons go. IF YOU ARE WANTING TO TURBO A GTS, YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PISTONS BEFORE YOU EVEN START.
Oh, and forget about trying to piece together a custom kit. You will spend more money piecing it together than if you would have bought a kit.
SuperchargerRIPP Mods has a supercharger kit for both the 4cyl and V6 engines. Most of the information is on their site so there is no need in me repeating it here. However, there is one thing I would like to say. You will see HP numbers on their site regarding their SDS kits. These are CRANK HP NUMBERS
NOT WHEEL HP NUMBERS. There is a big difference.
www.rippmods.com
All RIPP's SDS kits
require an aftermarket headers.
This is my spill for all the n00bs to look at. If I forgot something, my bad. I seem to do that alot.
If you plan on doing these mods yourself, I suggest taking a look at the online service manual.
If you are looking for more websites....here is another
ListRPW's Eclipse WebpageAll RPW parts are available through
Tearstone or you can email Russ at
sales@tearstone.com.
DISCLAIMER:
I am not responsible for you modding your car, parts breaking on your car, or any use of this information that results in something bad happening to you. This writeup is for information purposes only and I will not be held responsible for your own mistakes. Have fun modding your 3G eclipse.
Last edits made by SC-Customs on 5/31/08
| Forum Topics |
|
|
|
1
|
MITS ALL THE WAY |
7 |
Today, 10:17 AM
Last post by: Az3g |
Hey everyone where is a good place to get a diagram for the fuze box in the engine of an 01 Eclipse?
|
|
|
0
|
MITS ALL THE WAY |
5 |
Yesterday, 11:44 AM
Last post by: MITS ALL THE WAY |
Where is the MFI relay in an 2001 Eclipse RS??
|
|
|
10
|
ResidentEvil1987 |
66 |
5th November 2009 - 11:08 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
My g/f was driving the car to work today and when she started the car up the rmps were up 2,000+ then when she put it in reverse and drive the rpms would drop down to 300 to 800 and fluctuate back and forth acting like its gonna just stall out... She was on her way to work at a stop sign and pressed the gas to go and it just cut out...
I was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem to this or have any idea what it could be, check engine light is not on.
Thanks a lot.
|
|
|
7
|
MITS ALL THE WAY |
63 |
5th November 2009 - 11:02 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
My car has over 167k on it. Is it worth fixing?
|
|
|
9
|
Az3g |
55 |
5th November 2009 - 09:15 PM
Last post by: mscates21 |
I just did a compleat rebuild of my engine. its been back together for a few days and its running great. Im just monitoring and adjusting this and that still. But the one thing I cant figure out is a whining noise coming from the alternator belt. yes I have tightend and loosend it, and the belt looks and feels in great shape... so Im not worried about anything, but its annoying as hell. any suggestions?
|
 |
|
4
|
Joepr |
71 |
4th November 2009 - 10:07 PM
Last post by: MITS ALL THE WAY |
This problem started two days ago. I have a 2002 Eclipse Spyder Convertible with 60,000 miles. Sometimes it will start and work fine but other times it will start but will not idle and cut off if I'm not on the gas pedal revving it. It I release the pedal it will cut off. I have looked for fault codes but none come up. Any suggestions out there?
|
|
|
2
|
Az3g |
39 |
4th November 2009 - 03:41 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
ok, I keep having to turn my idle up cuz its at like 500rpm, then the next day it is back down to that again. I have run out of room for anymore adjustment to raise the idle. What the fuck is going on? is this the TBS? or some other sensor or something?
|
|
|
9
|
SamPenner |
2,207 |
3rd November 2009 - 07:15 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
im just looking for some prefferably cheap upgrades for my car. anyone have any suggestions? i just need some extra horsepower
i own the 2.4 lt eclipse GS
|
|
|
1
|
ResidentEvil1987 |
34 |
2nd November 2009 - 10:29 AM
Last post by: EMC 3000gt |
Can someone please tell me how to raise the idle?
|
|
|
1
|
alexykysil230 |
15 |
31st October 2009 - 03:27 AM
Last post by: SRSONE |
|
|
|
1
|
xtremeeclipse |
26 |
30th October 2009 - 08:08 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
Hi I just bought an 03 eclipse GT, 5 speed, V6 motor, with 154K on it. What are the things that usually go bad or should be changed with this amount of mileage? I had seen a lot of posts about timing belts? is there an issue with the belts going with this amount of miles on the car? Seems to run and drive great! Looking to do normal maintenance on it. I don't have a ton of cash to drop into it right now so a priority list of items would be great.
Thanks
Jeff
|
|
|
3
|
ResidentEvil1987 |
48 |
29th October 2009 - 11:30 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
Hi, I see where 2 of the plugs are but don't know where the other 2 are didn't think I seen them in the back...
I've changed the plugs in other cars no problem this one is just a lot different.
|
 |
|
5
|
Beizzi |
69 |
29th October 2009 - 06:42 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
K names Brett and i own a 2003 eclipse rs. only mod to engine is AEM V2 CAI. I actually plan on a turbo later on but since i dont kno too much bout cars i was wondering if there were some things i could do to make her faster before i put one in. i was trying to look up some exhaust like an EVO2 or Greddy but i could only find them for a v6. so any suggestions. thnx
|
|
|
0
|
MITS ALL THE WAY |
31 |
28th October 2009 - 10:58 AM
Last post by: MITS ALL THE WAY |
Hey i just got an 01 eclipse RS and it doesnt start. the previous owner said that its the MFI relay. Where is it? I have seen pics and read stuff for older eclipses that said it was under the console on passenger side. Is it true? The owner said it was in the fuse box in the motor. I am willing to tinker but I am not exactly mechanically inclined. I am definitly willing to learn. My bad it I did something wrong, i am new to this.
|
|
|
2
|
MPatrickC |
22 |
27th October 2009 - 08:28 PM
Last post by: MPatrickC |
Anyone ever replace the firewall engine mount on the 4cyl eclipse?
|
|
|
9
|
altons4439 |
36 |
26th October 2009 - 03:35 PM
Last post by: bobthecow |
When its cold outside I sometimes start my 2001 Eclipse GT to warm it up before going to work. About half the time I do this, when I get in the car there is a strong exhaust/gas smell in the car. It's usually strong enough that I have to let the windows down as I drive to work to clear it out. Like I mentioned, sometimes it doesn't happen.
Does anyone know what might cause this such that I can get it fixed?
|
|
|
4
|
hzdjj |
93 |
23rd October 2009 - 07:55 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
Hi everyone, I'm really new here... Thanks in advance for reading my post!
I have been owning a 00 GS 5 speed for 2 years. Not in great shape, damaged the front bumper cover by myself, changed battery, etc...
I recently had a problem with engine overheating. It happens when you are running at idle speed. My cabin heating is also blowing out chilly (I turned it to hottest) wind. The radiator fan is working... This will all go away, rather quickly (in about 5-10 seconds..) just by pressing the gas to let the engine revolve faster, say 2000rpm... I had one of my friends who knew cars a lot, looked at it. He told me that it shouldn't be that serious a problem. Maybe it's just partial overheating, maybe I need to change my coolant temperature sensor, or I need to flush my radiator and change the coolant (I didn't change it for two years..
) Can anyone give any suggestions or comments on where the problem might be? My feeling is that the whole cooling system is a bit dirty, so maybe I need a flush?
Thank you all in advance!!
|
|
|
4
|
gl81290 |
36 |
23rd October 2009 - 04:35 AM
Last post by: bobthecow |
Hey, whats going on everyone..so right now on my 03 GT 5spd I have a k&n cold air intake and greddy evo2 catback (only mods done to the engine). I will not be going with a turbo or supercharger because of the cost. I know these cars are by no means fast but they do have a little kick to them.
I've been reading through forums and one of the topics was about how adding a catback will actually make you lose power.
So I got a little worried....did I lose power/torque because I added a catback and CAI WITHOUT have a turbo or supercharger? I am a little confused now and just by reading the forum I started to think more if I did?
But..my plan is to change my CAI over to a short ram before all the rain and snow starts down here. I am also about 95% sure I will be ordering megan short tube headers off of wesellcarparts.com.
So in the end my plan for the start of 2010 is to have an intake, catback, and the headers. Should I consider an engine tune?
Thanks..sorry everythings kind of all over the place....any info would help
|
|
|
6
|
buenf |
87 |
22nd October 2009 - 09:02 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
i have a 3g eclipse can i use 15W-40 oil in it it has a 3.0 v6 in it thanks
|
|
|
8
|
Mystique64 |
112 |
22nd October 2009 - 03:01 PM
Last post by: XTerranZT |
I am sick of these POS Cooper tires on my Spyder GS (205/55R16 size). It rained yesterday and if the person in front of me hadn't moved out of the lane hearing my skidding I'd have rear ended them big time and I was keeping a distance three car lengths back. Not to mention Mitsubishi did not seem to think GS owners needed antilock brakes in this day and age. The traction rating on them is A but I think it is really around F. I have to baby the pedal when it's even a little wet to keep from spinning them and it's a standard non-turbo engine.
Winter is coming up and I need good tires for rain and soon snow. Someone mentioned Michelin Primacy MXV4's as a good option.
Let me know what you all think would be a good tire. I don't care about going 100MPH on them or highway noise as I drive almost entirely in the city.
Thanks....
Misty
|
|
|
5
|
roughneckeyad |
304 |
22nd October 2009 - 02:55 PM
Last post by: XTerranZT |
Alright.
People, list Car model, YEAR, Mileage and Transmission ONLY if your over 130,000 and 110,000 on Automatic.
Also, list extreme mechanical problems and mileage it occured.. Ex, Replace Transmission at 60,000 or whatever.
Hopefuly wel get some interesting numbers the 3G reached.
Im not in the list because my car is less than the mileage.
|
|
|
29
|
BellaValerina |
633 |
22nd October 2009 - 02:47 PM
Last post by: XTerranZT |
Can anyone help me figure out what this noise is? It occurs during start up when it's really cold (today its -8F) and/or when I just start the engine. It lasts about 2 minutes or less. It's been going on for about 1.5 years and my car runs fine except for this embarassing noise at start up.
My car is a Eclipse GTS 2004...
Here's the link to the noise...
http://img531.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mov05168lr8.flv
|
|
|
9
|
QDEEP |
148 |
21st October 2009 - 06:50 PM
Last post by: Lewiman06 |
I get a lot of junk from the tuner community for having chrome rims on my clipse. I love it especially with the dark color of the car. Whats your take on it? [attachment=11631:IMG_0348_1_.jpg]
|
|
|
4
|
gl81290 |
60 |
19th October 2009 - 12:00 AM
Last post by: eddnyster |
Hey anyone here have a v6 eclipse with headers on it? Basically i'm looking into megan short tube headers but I want to know if anyone here has done this to the car and if it does produce serious rasp.
p.s. I also have a k&n CAI installed and a greddy evo2 cat back in the mail
|
|
|
13
|
ddd1990 |
128 |
17th October 2009 - 04:05 PM
Last post by: bobthecow |
I have 03 eclipse Gts Spyder, so for a AEM cold air in my car, but had to spend the rest of the money on new breaks pads / rotors, spark plugs, and wires, and other things that wont effect my Horse power.
Was looking for other cheeper mods that would up my horsepower a decent amount. Already planning on a Greddy exhaust, and headers (unsure of what brand) wont be doing a turbo or supercharger until the car reaches 120k+ miles and i rebuild the engine.
|
|
|
7
|
QDEEP |
57 |
17th October 2009 - 11:31 AM
Last post by: Az3g |
I just bought a mean body kit for my clipse and its looking good with one exception, the doors. I never understood why mitsu designed the doors like that. Any suggestions for removing them or replacing the doors?[attachment=11630:IMG_0348_1_.jpg]
|
 |
|
7
|
scrmndmn |
61 |
16th October 2009 - 10:33 PM
Last post by: scrmndmn |
Hello all!
I just bought a 01 spyder and two of the factory 17 inch rims are busted. I found a set of 17 inch rims off a 08 gs and wanted to know if they will fit? The 08 rims are 17x7.5 with 46mm offset and they have 225/50/17 on them. I am concerned about the tires rubbing on the rear knuckles since the rims are a inch wider and the tires are 225s when stock is 215s and not much room to spare now. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have looked for other people that have done this and have found nothing.
|
|
|
46
|
mscates21 |
763 |
15th October 2009 - 11:38 PM
Last post by: mscates21 |
i dont know about you guys but i am tired of people saying my car looks like a girls car. me personally i like my car i dont see how a silver 3g eclipse coupe with different wheels looks like a girls car. i could understand it if it was pink or purple with flower then i could understand. do any of u guy have this problem.
|
|
|
2
|
MPatrickC |
31 |
15th October 2009 - 02:19 PM
Last post by: MPatrickC |
5 speed Manual Trans. 01 Eclipse GS 4cyl Non-Turbo.
A couple of weeks ago my car started making a Chirp noise when ever I took off. here are the constrants to try and pin point it down. This chirping noise doesn't affect performance, shifting, or clutch pedal pressure. Its just making this noise every time I take off. It's really annoying and sounds expensive.
1) It does it with the AC off
2) It will make the noise if I take off in 1st and 2nd gear.
3) It will sometiems do it If I shift from 1st to 2nd gear.
4) There is no grinding of the gears, loss in foot pedal resistance, or "slipping" clutch
5) There is no loss of fluids.
6) If I aggressively take off (Not peeling out) and get up to speed and shift at 5,500 rpm it will not make the noise.
7) The noise likes to happen in slow take off's like traffic, and stop lights/signs.
|
|
|
1
|
djvelvet15 |
34 |
14th October 2009 - 07:34 AM
Last post by: Az3g |
i have a 2000 gt and when its cold out engine will not start, just sputters, but after car does start engine will start fine as long as engine is warm just biught first winter coming... Help Please!!!
|
|
|
2
|
MPatrickC |
84 |
13th October 2009 - 10:38 PM
Last post by: Danman |
I have an 01 eclipse gs. The sunroof recently has been shuttering when it opens, when it close's its closes smoothly. The Sun roof doesn't leak at all. And when it close's its seals down so tight that i have to push the sun roof button, pop it up a 1/8", then hit the button again.
Also since ive had the car the rear trunk lid fills up with water when it rains. Theirs no leak stains in the trunk or the back seat, but the lid becomes a resivour for water and when I open it after a rain, water drains out the sides were the two plasitc panels meet. Someone told me it was the spoiler gaskets, another told me the rear window gasket. Is this something I can take a part, get into the lid with a caulking gun and seal off all the seems?
|
|
|
3
|
ResidentEvil1987 |
37 |
13th October 2009 - 08:26 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
Ever since me and my ex bought this car from the dealer the temp gauge has just been sitting in about the middle and never moves... Does anyone have any ideas how I would fix this? Not sure if its the gauge it self or not.
Anyway to check?
|
|
|
3
|
ResidentEvil1987 |
53 |
13th October 2009 - 07:05 AM
Last post by: Az3g |
I'll start up the car and let it warm up after it gets warm I start driving it and it starts making some weird noises. When I pull up to a stop sign/light it starts to like putter. Then give it some gas its fine. Same with the noises give it a little gas and they go away... sometimes its ridiculously annoying and loud. Sometimes the noises will sound different from drive, reverse, to neutral...
This is all without ac being on.
If anyone else had this problem or any knows what this is would you please let me know. Thanks
|
|
|
6
|
Az3g |
57 |
11th October 2009 - 05:43 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
Ok, once again I blew my head gasket, Im not to worried about it, shit happens. But why does my head warp every time too? Ive had it machined twice now, and its out of spec .003 or 4. Im worried Im going to run out of lives machining this thing... what can I do?
|
|
|
1
|
trapkid |
42 |
10th October 2009 - 08:40 PM
Last post by: piggylover1985 |
You are looking at a set 4 Dunlop Grspic DS-1 studless snow tires and Sport Edition 16”x7”rims. I will sell the tires and rims together as a package for $250 or separate the 4 tires for $140 and the rims for $140
The Tires are 205/55/16 and have good tread left on them. They are incredible in the snow and ice.
The Rims also are in good condition: They are 16”x7” with a 5 bolt pattern. The offset and bolt pattern is listed below.
Offset: 50mm Backspacing: 5.98" Bolt Pattern: 5-114
Rec. Tire Size: 205/55-16
I have stock Calipers, and rotors.
|
|
|
8
|
Mike88 |
203 |
6th October 2009 - 01:22 AM
Last post by: Mr Nyce GTS V6 |
so i am looking at buying a 2003 eclipse GT with the v6/manual, I was wondering if those came with a hydraulc clutch or one of those fly by wire clutches? Another question is do they have govoners? I would be disappointed if it topped out at 105 bc the govt says i shouldnt go faster...lol
Thanks
|
|
|
16
|
Az3g |
143 |
6th October 2009 - 01:11 AM
Last post by: Mr Nyce GTS V6 |
Are there any 3rd gen people alive out there? Looks like we need a new topic... ok, who has done or is planning suspension upgrades, and what are they? lowering springs, shocks, coilovers, swaybars, strutbars, etc. and the brands.
|
|
|
11
|
Kickybo |
237 |
5th October 2009 - 04:41 PM
Last post by: Prakash Jain |
I have a 2001 Spyder Eclipse and the paint is fading on the hood and trunk. The guy at MAACO said this is typical for the 3rd generation Spyders (2000 - 2006). Has anyone been able to get Mitsubishi to do anything? Sounds like a defect to me.
|
|
|
5
|
Shata |
88 |
5th October 2009 - 03:26 PM
Last post by: Shata |
Hey there,
I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on whats wrong with mine when the engine is cold like 60f and i start it in morning it clicks real bad for about 15-20 sec till the temp gauge is over 1/4 way up. I took it to mechanic and had all 24 valve lifters replaced and its still doing it anyone have ideas where to look next?
Thanks
mike
|
|
|
8
|
joninator |
156 |
3rd October 2009 - 07:36 PM
Last post by: X4ND32 |
OK I'm in the middle of takeing out my engine and I cant get it apart from the transmission. I have all the bolts undone (there was 10 in total) I can get the engine to come about an inch from the transmission but it won't let go like something is holding it on. I've pulled and pryed and still nothing it won't detach!!!. It's a 5speed and it's in neutral with the E-brake on.
Any ideas on what the problem could be?
|
|
|
2
|
straight8 |
32 |
3rd October 2009 - 06:38 PM
Last post by: Az3g |
My brother's car is due for timing belt change. Not looking forward to it. big hands, little car, they don't mix. Any of you could tell me whether this is a clearance engine or not, would be great.. I searched the forum and didn't see the question posed yet. Need to know>> If the timing belt let's go, and the valvetrain stops but the pistons do not (meaning the timing belt breaks!) will an open valve get bent or not. Thanks in advance. Jim
|
|
|
7
|
roughneckeyad |
117 |
2nd October 2009 - 07:40 PM
Last post by: Shata |
Hey, 2 days ago, 2 year old battery died out after playing music for 15 minutes... was very weird cause it usually cranks up fast.. charged it up, drove it, woke up next morning..car crancked up nicely, drove it, parked it for 5 hours.. came back, car would crank slower, then drove it home, i drove the car to the place i got the battery from.. they checked the battery was flat.. he replaced it and checked the new battery and alternator said everything is fine. Now as soon as i cranked it up the first time after new battery, my engine was idling low after revving up.. and when i make stops it revs low.. 400 rpms then goes back up to 600-700 rpms.. what the heck happened? is it because of ECU reset? if not, where is the idle control exactly, i need to move that..
P.S when i got to the shop, the car would not crank at all.. the battery was completely gone and would not charge up.
|
|
|
4
|
SCSU |
56 |
1st October 2009 - 05:05 PM
Last post by: SCSU |
I am wondering if I should replace the deck in my car, the paint is chipping off and it's not exactly eye candy. However, I know that if I do this, the little sound adjuster thing, with the track number next to the clock won't work. I believe the clock will still work, and that I can adjust that through the buttons up on the dash, but I was wondering if you guys decided it was worth it to replace the deck or not..
I just want something I can plug my ipod into
|
|
|
0
|
Chevyfan504 |
37 |
30th September 2009 - 09:37 PM
Last post by: Chevyfan504 |
Hey im new to this forum but ive been working on cars for a while now, but i just recently got this 2001 mitsubishi eclipse gt v-6 and the car runs fine and its in great condition 110855 miles but the car wont move. The car shifts fine i can put it into every gear and the clutch has good pressure on it. i can see the clutch release fork moving but when i put the car into any gear and release the clutch it wont go anywhere, and unlike my freinds other eclipse which when the clutch failed there was a significant rattling sound when it was in gear but this has no sound at all when its in gear all i can hear is the purring motor. i was gonna take out the cluch and inspect it but before i did that i wanted some suggestions on what it could be. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
|
|
|
