dont know if it works

http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-...ice-Manual.html

I've compiled a list of various sources for aftermarket parts for our cars.  If anyone comes across a site i did not mention, please post up. I will try to keep this list updated.

Tearstone Performance 3G Performance Parts

Sport Compact Customs Unique Specialty Items for Mitsubishi including Carbon Fiber Hoods, etc.

WeSellCarParts Quality Aftermarket Parts

http://www.deyemeracing.com soild/firm motor mounts

http://www.tialsport.com wastegates BOV's and more.

http://www.turboxs.com BOV's boost controllers.

http://www.summitracing.com again not much for our cars but they do have plug wires etc...

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ good info and some hard to find parts from the 2G that will work on our cars. Not to mention a ton of stuff for the 3g as well. 

http://www.titanmotorsports.com Gauges

A wheel is comprised of 3 parts: RIM, HUB, and SPOKES. By calling them a set of "rims", you're referring to the wrong thing. It's WHEELS. Several people try to argue this concept and claim it doesn't matter, when in fact it does. If and when you move into TRUE high quality custom parts and plan to refer to items as the wrong thing, you will end up buying the wrong item. Call Volk, Enkei, Weds Sport, etc. and order a set of rims and watch what you get in the mail, you will get replace RIMS, which is the biggest advantage to a 3-piece wheel.

Here's a fantastic example to read:
http://www.carbonfibergear.com/weds-sport-...on-fiber-wheel/

Notice at what point RIM is referred to in the article. This is a dry carbon fiber wheel or an option to have a dry carbon fiber hub with aluminum rims.

Consider yourself educated and please use the proper terminology and en grain this concept into your peers.

This is quoted from the very knowledgeable "RyanS."



******DISCLAIMER**********

This is for the retard emailing me accusing me of stealing this without giving credit to the website it was posted on. I am not going to give credit to the website because the website didn't write this. I have given credit to the actual guy who wrote it(RyanS). If you don't like it, get over it.

PDF Files

2000 Eclipse

2001 Eclipse

2002 Eclipse

2003 Eclipse

2004 Eclipse

2005 Eclipse

Click here for service manual

Chaptered Selection:

Preface - Volume 1

Preface - Volume 2

Preface - Volume 3

Preface - Volume 4

Group 00 - General Body and Chasis

Group 00E - General electrical

Group 11A - Engine Mechanical 2.4L

Group 11B - Engine Overhaul 2.4L

Group 11C - Engine Mechanical 3.0L

Group 11D - Engine Overhaul 3.0L

Group 12 - Engine Lubrication

Group 13A - Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) 2.4L

Group 13B - Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) 3.0L

Gropu 13C - Fuel Supply

Group 14 - Engine Cooling

Group 15 - Intake and Exhaust

Group 16 - Engine Electrical

Group 17 - Engine and Emission Control

Group 21A - Clutch

Group 21B - Clutch Overhaul

Group 22A - Manual Transaxle

Group 22B - Manual Transaxle Overhaul

Group 23A - Automatic Transaxle

Group 23B - Automatic Transaxle Overhaul

Group 26 - Front Axle

Group 27 - Rear Axle

Group 31 - Wheel and Tire

Group 32 - Power Plant Mount

Group 33A - Front Suspension

Group 34 - Rear Suspension

Group 35A - Basic Brake System

Group 35B - Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)

Group 35C - Traction Control Systel (TCL)

Group 37A - Power Steering

Group 42 - Body

Group 51 - Exterior

Group 52A - Interior

Group 52B - Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)

Group 55 - Heating and Air Conditioning

Group 70 - Component Locations

Group 80A - Configuration Diagrams

Group 80B - Splice Locations

Group 90 - Circuit Diagrams

Index - Volume 1

Index - Volume 2

Index - Volume 3

Index - Volume 4

For all you guys and girls out there who want to do modifications to their 3G, I have made a list of a number of parts that you can start with. These are parts that I would recommend. If there are other parts that you want, don't let me stop you from getting them. Remember, it is YOUR car.

You will notice that not all of these modifications will increase your HP. Some will increase handling and braking. You will also notice that I will not list any stereo systems, undercar neons, decals, body kits, or any other visual mods. These mods are strictly for the performance of the car.

------------------------------------------------------

First and foremost, I want to get this out of the way. THERE IS NOT CHIP MADE FOR THE 3G. THE PIECES OF CRAP THAT ARE SOLD ON EBAY ARE A JOKE. THE JET MODULES CANNOT DO ANYTHING FOR YOU. THROTTLE BODY SPACERS WILL DO NOTHING BUT LIGHTEN YOUR WALLET. SO WILL ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGERS AND THE "TURBONATOR". If you want to spend your money on these, you can feel free to send that money to me. You will get the same reward out of it.

------------------------------------------------------


With that being said, we will start with the most basic mods then work up....


Intake

AEM/Injen/K&N - These three CAI are basically the same. You won't go wrong with either one of the three you decide to buy. You may hear people talk about CAI vs. WAI. Neither one is better than the other. They will both give you about the same HP gains. Some people say that a WAI is louder so they like that better. Either way you want to go will be good. The only advise I will give you is to STAY AWAY FROM EBAY INTAKES. These intakes usually are crap and will not fit.

You can usually get the name brand intakes from most online vendors. Check with www.wesellcarparts.com for RELIABLE and GOOD pricing on intakes.

Exhaust

There are a number of manufacturers that make exhausts for the 3G. GReddy, JIC, Apex'i, HKS, Borla, Magnaflow, Injen, Razzi(dual exhaust), and Invidia. All of these, with the exception of the HKS, are full cat-back exhausts. You can also get most of these from www.wesellcarparts.com. Exhausts are ok to get from Ebay, but research the seller before buying, just make sure you are NOT buying a knock off or "Greddy STYLE exhaust", STYLE meaning - knock off.

And to make things better, any exhaust that is made for the 2G GS-T(not GSX) will also fit the 3G with minor modifications. These modifications can be made by a muffler shop for very cheap.

These exhaust will give you next to nothing in the performance aspect, but they will make the car sound awesome. Not the raspy, **** off bubble bee sound that the local ricers sound like. These exhaust produce a low, mellow, deep tone.

You will need to know whether your 3G is a fed-spec or a cali-spec eclipse. If you have a 02+, then you have a cali-spec.

If you have a 2000 or 2001 eclipse, use the following methods to figure out which you have...



IF you have a fed-spec eclipse, then you will have to have modifications made to the exhaust for it to fit on your car. If you have a cali-spec, then the exhausts will be bolt-on.



Headers

Long-Tube

This is where things start getting a little more difficult. I will try to explain this the best way I can. There are two types of headers: Long-tube headers and Short-tube headers. Long-tube headers will give you more HP gain but will also be more expensive than their Short-tube counterparts.

We will start with the Long-tube headers. There are three manufacturers who make long-tube headers for the 3G: Hytech, RIPP Mods, and RPW.

Hytech are the most expensive, running you about $1900. However, they will give you the most HP gain. I have seen gains of 40whp from these headers. These headers are not currently being produced anymore. You can either buy them used or contact Hytech and have them make you a set. Hytech currently only has the headers for the V6. Sorry 4cyl guys. SC-Customs has a set of Ceramic coated HyTech Headers on their Supercharged Eclipse, so ask them for advice if you choose this system. www.sc-customs.com

RIPP Mods also sells long-tube headers for the 3G. They will run you about $1200(V6) and they are said to give you around 30whp. However, I have seen many people get 10whp from these headers. www.rippmods.com

RPW also sells long-tube headers for the V6. They can be purchased from RPW directly (which is in Australia) or through www.tearstone.com


Short-tube

Now for the short-tube headers, there are more manufacturers. Megan, DCSports, XIR, and CMF are all common and basically the same header produced from the same chinese manufacturer. EBay has the same header all over, so it's really nothing special. These headers are produced with limited research/developed, sound VERY raspy, and scavenge. RPW also makes a set of headers for the 4cyl. They are well designed headers and will probably give you the most HP from the short-tube headers. They can be found at www.tearstone.com

OBX makes a pretty crappy header for the 3G. But its cheap, so that is also an option.


Electronics

If you decide to get headers for your 3G, you will likely need some type of electronic fuel management unit to tune the engine. Headers normally tend to make the 3G run rich.

Piggybacks

DO NOT BUY A SAFC CONTROLLER FOR A 3G ECLIPSE. It will do NOTHING as the ECU will automoatically adjust to auto-correct over the settings being fed into it. Your option is either EManage, full stand-alone, or having your ECU Rom re-flashed with a new pre-programmed .bin file.



It can be found at www.tearstone.com

After that, the next step is the GReddy Emanage Ultimate.



Standalone

There are a number of standalones available for the 3G. However, none are specifically made for the V6 and only the AEM EMS is designed for the 4cyl auto. If you decide to go with one of these, you will need to do custom connections for the harnesses. It has been done before, so it's not impossible. Haltech also makes a FANTASTIC unit, however - it is pricey. If you plan on stand-alone, odds are the cost isn't an issue so I would highly recommend Haltech.


Suspension

Shocks/Struts

There are many different combinations you can go with on suspension. The most common is the KYB AGX or KYB GR-2. These can be found at www.wesellcarparts.com

You could also look into Koni or Tokico for shocks.

Springs/Coilovers

You can also look into Eibach Sportsline, Tein S-tech, Tein H-tech, or Intrax. I personally liek Intrax and have used them on MULTIPLE vehicles for WELL over 10 years.

You will see the coilover sleeves all over eBay or through various vendors that you can use with lowering springs. DO NOT buy them as they are nothing more than a manual way to lower your car. This will put extra strain on your struts causing them to blow in time. Additionally, your car will ride like ****. If you think a coilover can be had for less than $50, then you deserve the damage that comes along with it.

True Coilovers

True Coilovers are JIC, Megan, Apex-I, or Tein. A full set will range from $800-$1500 depending on brand you select.

Suspension Bars

The factory strut brace on the front is the best available and does not need to be upgraded. If you still feel you want an upgrade, look for a DCSport front bar. They are now discountinued, but the best alternative. ANything else with "pivot points" will flex and provide NO upgrade and in fact, are a downgrade.

Rear Strut Brace is bst if you use the RRE (Road Race Engineering) or if you get lucky and find a DCSport Rear bar.

Motor Mounts

For motor mounts, Deyeme makes all four(front, rear, and both sides) in flex or firm. These are direct replacements of the stock mounts. No pressing or cutting required.

Tricky part is, Deyeme doesn't advertise the mounts as for the Eclipse. They advertise them as for the 2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe, which is almost the same car as the Eclipse. Go to the following page and choose "2001-2005 Stratus/Sebring Coupe" from the drop-down menu on the left hand side.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/

Brakes

There are also several combinations of brakes that you can go with. The most common rotors used are the Powerslot slotted rotors. You can also look into Baer, Stoptech, and Brembos, but they are very expensive. Another warning....STAY AWAY FROM EBAY CROSS-DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS. They are crap and the WILL crack which will cause major health risks. This is one part that you do not want to go cheap on. As I saw someone say on another forum, "Do you want to trust your life on the cheapest part you could find?"

As for brake pads, I've heard good things about Hawk, Porterfield, and AXxis. The Hawk HPS pads dust alot but have excellent performance. I have them along with the Powerslot rotors, and I love them.

Transmission

LSD - Limited Slip Differential

There are two major LSDs made for the 3G: Quaife and Kaaz. Quaife is the most expensive but provides a lifetime warranty on the LSD, even if its damaged from racing. You could find them almost anywhere on the internet.

Clutches

There are a number of clutch manufacturers that make clutches for the 3G. Most notably are ACT and SPEC. You won't go wrong with whichever one you get. Two notes though. First, Exedy makes STOCK replacement clutches. So going with an Exedy stage 1, you are basically putting another stock clutch in. Second, if you plan on going with a Stage 3 clutch, you might as well go ahead and buy a LSD to go with it. There have been a number of guys that put a Stage 3 clutch in and destroyed their stock differential. If you destroy your stock differential, most likely, you will also damage your transmission because of the broken pieces of metal flying around.

High Stall Torque Converter(Autos Only)

Ian(Rezlo) makes awesome torque converter for the automatic tranny guys. He has had many, many happy customers. Search around his page for more information.

http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Sell/HSTC/Jap.htm

Intake Manifold

Now if you have plans of going with a turbo or supercharger, one upgrade that would help out would be to upgrade from the stock intake manifold. For the GT V6, there are a couple of options. You can choose between the GTS intake manifold, the Diamante VRX intake manifold, or the RPW intake manifold.

You can probably find the GTS manifold and Diamante manifold at a junkyard or from a dealer. You can purchase the RPW manifold from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com)

GT to GTS intake manifold swap

Diamante Intake Manifold Swap Explained Briefly

For the 4cyl guys, RPW also makes an intake manifold for the 4cyl. It can also be purchased from RPW or Tearstone(sales@tearstone.com).


Engine Building

There are tons of combinations that you can do when deciding to build your engine(if you decide to go that way). The ONLY manufacturer that has stepped up to the plate for many of the engine internals is RPW.

Here is a list of items they sell:

RPW Billeted Camshaft
Vernier Camshaft Gears
Valve Springs
Stock conrod modifications
8mm ARP conrod bolt kits
Shot Peened conrods
Forged steel conrods
Hypereutectic Pistons Stock CR 9.0:1
Hastings Piston Rings
Forged Pistons
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 1
RPW Ported & Polished Heads Stage 2
RPW Heavy Duty head gasket
ARP Main Stud kit
ARP Head Stud kit

RPW can also make custom camshafts to your specs.

For more information on these, you can either email them at rpwinfo@iinet.net.au or email Russ(tearstone) at sales@tearstone.com . Russ is a US retailer of RPW.

V6 Engine parts
V6 Short Block Race Engine
4cyl Engine parts

Russ also sells pre-built 4cyl race blocks but he doesn't have them added to his site yet.

Now for the good stuff.

Forced Induction(Turbo/Supercharger)

It is possible to turbo or supercharge the 3G eclipse. There are kits for both. It is your own decision as to which one you want to go with. Both have their advantages and both have their disadvantages. Please read this page.. Difference Between Turbo and Supercharger


Turbo

First, please read this article How Turbo's Work. Also, PLEASE pick up a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is available from Barnes and Noble. These two documents will give you a basic understanding of turboing a car. It will also give you an understanding of how a turbo works. I can't stress this enough...do your research before attempting putting a turbo on your car. You have heard many horror stories of engines blowing from turbos. The turbos DID NOT cause this. It was the operator not knowing what they were doing. You can easily destroy your engine if you don't understand what you are doing.

Don't be scared off by the previous paragraph. Turboing a car isn't rocket science. It can get complicated at times, but with research, it can be overcame.

4cyl Engine

The 4cyl engine is an excellent engine to turbo. If you find yourself feeling down because you could "only" get the 4cyl....hold that head up. I'm sure you have heard of the awesome, spectacular 4G63t engine that is in the 1G/2G GST/GSX. Well guess what, you pretty much have a stroked 4G63t. The two engines are very very similar. The 4cyl engine(commonly referred to as the 4G64) can handle up to about 17-18psi on the stock internals. This is excellent considering this engine was never meant to see boost.

V6 Engine

Well GT guys, I'm sorry but I can't say the same about the GT engine. It is a great engine, very similar to the VR4, twin turbo, 3000GT engine, but the pistons are crap. Pistons from Autozone are better than the crappy ones that Mitsu put into this engine. The engine can run safely at about 8psi on the stock engine. 10psi is pushing it, 12psi is walking a very thin line. The first thing that will go is the pistons. Now once the pistons are replaced, the rest of the engine is pretty strong.

But don't feel bad, because the GTS guys have it even worse. Since the GTS has 10:1 CR pistons, it cannot handle more than 5-6psi before the pistons go. IF YOU ARE WANTING TO TURBO A GTS, YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PISTONS BEFORE YOU EVEN START.

Oh, and forget about trying to piece together a custom kit. You will spend more money piecing it together than if you would have bought a kit.


Supercharger

RIPP Mods has a supercharger kit for both the 4cyl and V6 engines. Most of the information is on their site so there is no need in me repeating it here. However, there is one thing I would like to say. You will see HP numbers on their site regarding their SDS kits. These are CRANK HP NUMBERS NOT WHEEL HP NUMBERS. There is a big difference.

www.rippmods.com

All RIPP's SDS kits require an aftermarket headers.

This is my spill for all the n00bs to look at. If I forgot something, my bad. I seem to do that alot.

If you plan on doing these mods yourself, I suggest taking a look at the online service manual.

If you are looking for more websites....here is another List

RPW's Eclipse Webpage

All RPW parts are available through Tearstone or you can email Russ at sales@tearstone.com.

DISCLAIMER:

I am not responsible for you modding your car, parts breaking on your car, or any use of this information that results in something bad happening to you. This writeup is for information purposes only and I will not be held responsible for your own mistakes. Have fun modding your 3G eclipse.

Last edits made by SC-Customs on 5/31/08

We bought a 2003 eclipse spyder and we plugged in the phone charger and it didn't work. I figured it was the fuse, so I replaced it and still didn't work. I finally plugged the actual lighter in and the lighter actually works, it was glowing red. I tried a couple different chargers and none of them work, but they work in my car.
There is also the accessory charger in the glove box and it works fine for the chargers.

Any ideas?

Hi, new to the forum. Had a couple questions to ask about my car's weird idling problems. My car started acting weird a couple months ago. It would start up fine and sound ok. Then while it sat the rpms would fluctuate between 1.5k to 500 and then go lower. Eventually it would cut off and stale the car. I took it to a mechanic for other reasons. When i got it back it was worst. If i took my foot off the gas then it would die quickly. I would have to rev up the car just to keep it running.

I was wondering what this could be? What all should i check? How to test it?

I read that it's located under the battery plate. If i take it out and clean it good would that probably work? Once i get everything done and fixed, will the car automatically sync up the amount of air that it needs from this? Or will i have to somehow manually calibrate this?

Ok so the guy that I bought my eclipse from seemed to never dry his car when it got wet. I have the WORST water spots all over the car. I've waxed the car and the spots are still not coming out. So I'm getting a paint job next month because I want a new color anyway. My question is how do I get the water spots off the glass. I can not for the life of me get them out and it's pretty annoying. I remember seeing somewhere that someone used a high speed buffer and something else but is there anything else I can do?

i have a 2003 eclipse, 4 cyl. does anyone know offhand, what the # 24 fuse
powers, ive looked at diagrams but get confused. this fuse is on the
inside cockpit of car, keeps blowing when ignition is turned on, has
pic of engine above fuse for ID.i have no spark, engine cranks fine.
any help appreciated.

Hi, My friends car is stalling and the check engine light came on so I took it into a shop to get coded and it said Camshaft position sensor. The guy was saying that theres a lot of things that could throw up this code and to get a full diagnostic. I was thinking he was bullshitting me because they want more money. It drove fine today but yesterday I would start it up and it would stay on for probably 1 - 3 seconds and stall out, did that about 10 times then just left the car overnight and picked it up this morning. Would the camshaft position sensor make it stall like this? Im thinking the code is right on and the guy just wanted more money but would like to know some of your opinions.

Thanks a lot in advance! Hope to get this sorted asap.

Hey guys. I recently put an aem cold air intake on my car and it came without the c.a.r.b. sticker. In california we have to have this sticker on our intake system so when we get pulled over we don't get fined and have to repass smog with the stock intake on. I was wondering if anyone in the other states still have their sticker lying around that they'd either give or sell me. I called aem to see if I could get a sticker. They told me that they needed to email me a form that I would have to fill out and attach my registration and a picture of the intake in my car. I have no problem doing that but they told me that their system was down and they couldn't email me the form. It's been a while now and I'm still not receiving any form and I really need to get this sticker before I get pulled over.

Hey I was just wondering if any of you guys could help me with my gas mileage. When I first bought my car, it had a weak intake. It was a cheap pipe that sat next to the engine with no support tabs so it just vibrated like crazy causing sporadic idling, it was riding rough, I was getting poor gas mileage and it acted as though it was about to die. I bought a new aem cold air intake and everything changed except the poor gas mileage. The car runs amazingly and the only problem I'm having is I'm getting 19 miles to the gallon. Can anyone help me diagnose the problem?

Okey it was swapped out with a $150 engine everything was okey 40,000 engine replaced my 143,000 engine. i finally picked it up 700 miles away. Driving to san deigo, it was same ol 3g I4 "BEAST" everything ran great except shocks which was hardware and was soon to be replaced. Past yuma the temp gauge went stupid it went down and up and slowly bounced with the screwd up shocks. I kept it at 3k the whole time 75 MPH 7 hours of driving. LIL bro who replaced everything told me the gauge was iffy.

so past yuma guage is acting weird. i pull over in the desert nite pop the hood and nothing !!! coolants ok and good to go i dont know whats going on. so i say its 3 more hours come on. i take my brothers advice and think the gauge is full of crap....

passing elcentro the smell becomes like oil and burnt anitfreeze im like f$#@@ i look in the mirrors im trailing smoke i gas it to pull over to the left so i dont cause a traffic jam and rev it to 4K and the car dies

the battery lite and engine lite going on.. the ENGINE IS SHUT OFF

i quickly get out pop the hood and steam is coming hissing out the clear plastic anti freeze holder..
i wait for about hour cool it down i pour in anitfreeze and check the gauge and it seems to level to normal!!!!!

i start it and it makes a wheeeeeeening sound no detonation...i open the oil cap and try it again smoke is puffing out ...makeing a wheening sound turning but no detonation..

i dont know what else
my question is: is it the timing belt or blown gasket or what? what do i do next? do i rebuild or kiss the whole engine bye and get another? oh whats that wheeening sound is it not turning? is the pistons shot ?? HELP need advice

I've been searching all of last night and all of this morning and I can't seem to find it so i'll ask. I'm wondering if the 450cc injectors from a 1990 eagle tsi would be right for the 14b i'm putting on my 2000 eclipse gs. I am using the turbo from that talon and the manifold bolts up. I'm just wondering if i can use those injectors. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be much help.

I'm in the process of boosting my 2000 eclipse gs. I have a TD05h 14b off a 1990 talon. My question is if i'm only going to be at 7-9psi could i get away with my stock injectors and fuel pump? I've searched and found a lot of useful info but i can't find anything to do with a similar question. My car has the 4g64 engine and it's got the 275cc injectors. Let me know what you guys know.

Thanks.

If the car is cold, like after sitting all night. When you start it, it makes a very noteicable ticking sounds from above the engine and slightly to the left(if facing the car from the front). wish I had a pic so I could circle it. Once the car warms up you cant hear it at all. Any ideas?

Also when I push the gas it kinda sounds like water wishing quickly around. dunno what that is.

thanks for any help.

I know it may be pointless to ask this in general. Basically when I pressed the set switch, nothing ever happens, the light is never on. I was wondering, what would be the most probable culprit? It never worked since I bought this car. Or, is it the only solution to take it to the dealer for diagnosis?

I have a 2003 GTS and when i use the inside trunk release it pops the trunk open but it does not open the whole way. A latch or something prevents it from opening the whole way. I can't even get a key to turn in the lock with the trunk lid shut. The only way I've been able to open it is if I have someone pulling on the inside release while someone else is turning the key while lifting up on the trunk. Any ides?

Hello all. I have a problem where my regular beam on my right headlight does not work, but my bright beam does. I recently restored both headlights and installed new bulbs (thinking this was the problem), and the regular beam is still out. I am thinking there is a loose wire or something. Has this happened to anybody else, and does anybody have any suggestions for repairing it? If so, I would greatly appreciate the help.

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi eclipse auto with a 2.4 engine. The car won't start and I can't hear the fuel pump priming. So far I have changed the timing belt, water pump, crank sensor, cam sensor and fuel pump. Someone mentioned to me that it might be the fuel pump relay or fuses. Unfortunately I can't locate the fuel pump relay or fuses to test or swap them. It is my only vehicle and I desperately need to fix it soon. Please help.

I found a small cylindrical shaped fluid container under the hood, very close to the windshield, on the driver's side, what is that?......

Also the window washer fluid reservoir is the one that's near the coolant tank right?.... I just don't want to fill into the wrong hole...

Just thought I would want to share my new story...

I was driving to NYC when my car broke down in Pittsburgh. The AC Power steer belt got burned broken. Fortunately it was near my booked hotel. The mechanic told me that the AC compressor was completely locked up... I tried to hand turn it, very tight indeed... and he has to replace both the belt and the AC compressor... cost a lot. Originally would be more, but later he told me that after removing the original compressor, he found a lot of metal bits in my AC line A recharge might get the system messed up again, or might just be ok. And finally, I chose to let the AC discharged temporarily. Before, it breaks, the car has a whining sound from the belt, and I could approximately tell that it was from the AC... and I could also tell from the broken belt, that it was burned out by friction, which suggests some component (AC) is locked up. Still I am just curious, could it be that the original AC is still "usable", and I just got tricked to replace?

Questions for you guys: Is there a way to flush the AC line to clean out the metals? He told me that the only way was to replace but I was not sure. He also said that I would lose my rear defogger, if I discharge AC, but actually the defogger still works, my guess is that it's driven by the battery, am i right?

I was very lucky to still rent a car on the same day, and got to NYC as planned.... and, I could already imagine me driving with all windows and sunroof open in summer........

i just bought a triple gauge pod pillar and i was just wondering if anyone knows how to install the gauges or if anybody has the schimatics to the wirings on the car so i dont cut the wrong wires...... the gauges are
!.boost
2.oil pressure
3.air fuel ratio
they all include sensores


thank you

I have a 2001 Eclipse Spyder GT that recently experienced flashing console lights and then eventually would not start. I replaced the alternator with an aftermarket unit (from Advanced auto) which seemed to have resolved the issue. However, the charging system does not appear to be functioning, in spite of several Autozone checks indicating the alternator is working properly --- both in and out of the vehicle. The symptom is that the battery and brake light come on after about 8 seconds after the car is started and then flash at the same rate. They will both go out if I increase the RPMs to over 2K. Additionally, the battery is getting drained and not maintaining a charge.

I have replaced the battery negative ground cable as it was severely eroded. I also verified the "BAT" connection from the alternator to the positive battery post is good (no open or shorts). So far, what I have concluded is there appears to be a short to ground in the charging system that is preventing the charging system to function. I discovered this only after I removed the alternator wires from the positive battery post (2 red & white "BAT" charging wires) and checked the continuity between the connection in the engine fuse/fusible link/relay box (that feed the alternator charging wires) with ground . This explains why the charging system is non-functional!

Now the question: Is there a "generator/alternator relay" that has failed? If so, which one is it? The underside of the engine fuse box indicates the fusible link that connects to the alternator charging wires has a battery symbol, but the fusible link appears good as it is not open.

What am I missing here?

Thanks, in advance, for helping me resolve this mystery.

how do u chang the rear motor mount on a 2000 eclipse what will need to be taken off

my first post =]

ok so I have had my GT for about 8 months now and about a week ago i started having problems with the passenger window. Sometimes it will work just fine but other times i hit the button to lower it and it wont work and im sure im not hitting the child safety button or whatever you wanna call it lol any ideas?

Hello All,

Recently I have been introduced to extreme driving with my 2000 V6. Whenever I go over any bumps, and the two front shocks work to absorb the hit the following lights come on:

-Service Engine Soon
-Traction Control
-Skid

and the car looses power for a second. After a few everything is back to normal. This is very annoying on a busy highway as you can all imagine.

Does anyone have an idea what this could be? I lifted the car up myself and have checked for any loose wires but haven't found any.

Not really sure if i want to screw around with this

The alarm keeps going off randomly. It doesn't make any noise just lights flashing. This is causing my battery to drain. I installed a new battery 2 weeks ago and it's drained already. Does anyone know how to fix this or even disconnect the alarm?

New to forum and eclipse...

I just bought an 01 eclipse spyder gs last week saturday and of course didnt notice till the next day that my door speakers werent working. My husband took out the speakers and tried known good pair and still no sound. This was when we had the factory infinity system in. The other day I replaced the head unit with a new after market one and I still dont have sound from door speakers.

I also noticed something else...I had read online that when you change out the head unit you will lose the function of the display on the top dash. I only lost the cd/fm stuff but the light is still working and displaying the clock. not sure if that is anything or not just thought id mention it.

The head unit was purchased through crutchfield and it came with that special rca jack type connection on the back for the factory harness.

I appreciate any thoughts on the matter!!

when ever i drive over an hour then turn the car off and start it back up it makes this rattling noise but when i start driving agian it stops. any one know what this could be?

I have a 03 eclipse GS

and the multi center display or the digital clock went out suddenly.

i dont know if its a battery problem or what

is there a way to find out whats wrong with it?

or how to fix problems like this?

thanks

I removed the honeycomb screen in the maf sensor of my 2000 GT. Since then when the car is warming up, with a high cold start idle around 1500rpm, it will stutter like the fuel is cut out then catch itself. This doesn't happen if I hold the throttle around 1800rmp until it's warmed up. Once it's warmed up the idle is fine. I understand if I put the screen back in it should go away but I did get noticeable low end gains when the car gets warmed up and is driving around. Plus, I damaged the screen while removing it and threw it out.

Has anyone ever heard any ways to deal with this problem? Wiring harness resistor mod to fool the ecu? maf mods? Coolant temp mods to lower the cold start idle? Can you get rid of the cold start idle? Does is sound like the maf or idle air valve could be damaged?

***Update***
Today I hooked up the smoke machine to the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum source and didn't see any vacuum leaks. I also took the maf out to look for visible signs of damage and didn't see anything. After I slapped everything back together the car would idle fine after warm up but then after putting it in drive the idle goes really low then dies if I don't give it any gas. The maf is connected. Idle air valve of maf damage?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks

My son is turning 16 and wants a eclipse. Which I know nothing about I am a muscle car person. So should I get a 4 or 6 cly? Whats the difference in horse power. Also whats the difference in the models ( which ones were the higher end cars with all the options) I know everyone likes to add all different mods and body kits to these cars which I am sure is what he has in mind. I dont want to purchase a car only to find out that I got the wrong car. Any help would be nice. thanks

Does anyone know about the electrical system on an 01 eclipse RS? I need wiring diagrams for the fuze/relay box in the motor. The diagrams in the Haynes book just isn't cutting it. Any information or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

I was wondering if anyone had a set of Tein S. Techs for sale

Alright.
People, list Car model, YEAR, Mileage and Transmission ONLY if your over 130,000 and 110,000 on Automatic.
Also, list extreme mechanical problems and mileage it occured.. Ex, Replace Transmission at 60,000 or whatever.
Hopefuly wel get some interesting numbers the 3G reached.
Im not in the list because my car is less than the mileage.

I have a 01 eclipse gs with 152000 on it.
When you rev the engine and t hits high rpms the engine is fine and smooth but when the rpms start to drop into the 1000 area its rough!!!!!!!! when you drive it too in low rpm its loud and vibrates.

also its slipping from 2nd to third gear>
n e clues?

K I have a 2003 eclipse rs I have replaced the spark plugs twice but still it misfires. I used to have an oil leak inside the cylinders but got that fixed so I don't think it's the spark plugs. Any ideas?

Can anyone help me figure out what this noise is? It occurs during start up when it's really cold (today its -8F) and/or when I just start the engine. It lasts about 2 minutes or less. It's been going on for about 1.5 years and my car runs fine except for this embarassing noise at start up.

My car is a Eclipse GTS 2004...

mod edit the link no longer works message sent

Here's the link to the noise...
http://img531.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mov05168lr8.flv

Just letting everyone know I just got a GReddy Ti-C Cat-back for my 03 GT and it took a little work to get the silencer off but the sound is amazing! It's a loud deep rumble that just sends a chill up your back! If your looking to get an exhaust definitely look into this one!

Hello I was wpondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to get my horn goin or things to look at before I have to replace the horn. I have looked at all the fuses I can think of and everything was fine but still no horn.

I just put my car on the lift and noticed I am missing either a plastic or a bracer for plastics in the front drivers corner. Where can I find out what I'm missing? The corner piece behind the bumper is hanging and theres a long piece off my inner fender thats hanging. I see holes but nothing to bolt anything back togeather. I attached the best picture I could of where I am missing plastic or bracer.
Thanks

Ok, I'm an intelligent person, with no background working with cars. So if there are instructions to be read, I can typically figure it out...I just basically need it spelled out for me. I read the maintenance manual that is on these forums very thoroughly, they are my #1 guide for figuring things out I have no clue about.
And I'm pretty decent at figuring out 'whats wrong'.
I was able to replace the plugs and wires on my eclipse GT, and was pretty happy with that.

I finally opened the hood to try and figure out why my steering had become so difficult, turns out the drive belt was shredded. Whoo hoo, pretty easy to see whats wrong there.

Now because this belt is placed on the inner side of the crankshaft pulley, It appears I need to first remove the other belt on the crankshaft pulley. That's where I'm unsure of what to do. I read through the manual, but can't seem to find exactly what to do (it is a lot of info though)? I'm hoping it's not as involved as removing the whole engine.

The best I could figure out, was that it's as simple as taking the crankshaft pulley off?

If anyone is familiar with this particular activity, please let me know.


Thank you.

Ok my girlfriend bought a 2001 spyder gt the other day and the heat kind of work. She was told it would probably need some work, but the Previous owner didn't know what was wrong. She is driving around with no heat at all. The a/c doesn't work anymore. It doesn't make any sounds. I have limited knowledge on this kind of car, so i checked out the fuses and found the heater fuse blown. I replaced the fuse and started the car and the blower(i guess) started to make some kind of noise and then about 5 second it sounded like it was about to work and then cut off and blew the fuse. I'm really in need of ya'll help. I don't want her to take it to someone and they tell her something is wrong, she forks out a $100 to fix it and then come to find out it just wasn't the problem. I have already learned from all the heater/idle post that that has happen to a few people. Right now its in the 30's and not going to get above 45 any time soon here in TN and to add to it anemic and her car without a heater much longer isn't going to be doable. Anybody ever experienced this?

i bought a 650 dollar carbon fiber VIS evo hood. i cruised around for 30 minutes and it was all good then karma. i didnt make sure it was latched all the way. so now my corners r fu@#ed. so can anyone tell me of something i can do to fix it? oh and for the first timers like me. MAKE SURE THE HOOD IS CLOSED ALL THE WAY!

New to forum and eclipse...

I just bought an 01 eclipse spyder gs last week saturday and when I bought it the keyless entry was working 6 out of 10 times. It seemed to work every now and then so I thought maybe the battery was just week.

Not sure if this has anything to do with it not working now or what but it was somewhat working when I had the factory infinity system in. The other day I replaced the head unit with a new after market one and realized that I had completely lost the keyless entry function. So, I replaced the battery on the remote with a brand new one and it still didnt work.

The head unit was purchased through crutchfield and it came with that special rca jack type connection on the back for the factory harness.

I appreciate any thoughts on the matter!!

Anyone ever figure out why these (steering wheel mounted audio controls) would stop working, and how to get them working again. Car has sun and sound package with stock radio.

I have a 2003 eclipse spyder gs a/t, can I just swap out the ecu from a 2003 eclipse gs a/t and plug and play or do I need to like flash it or what not.