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I've been working on 6A12 24V heads on a non mivec motor in an E54A Hatchback Australian delivered. I couldn't find the exact manual at the time and used the 6A12 MIVEC version head tightening procedure of 20Nm + 120 deg +120 deg. Tonight I just accidentally stumbled on the correct procedure which involves tension to 74Nm, loosen then 20Nm + 90+90 deg. Well i did this except did the 120 +120 instead.
How critical would the extra 60 deg of turn be damage wise? The engine has been run but not driven. Can I just back off by 60deg or completely start again or is it too late as the engine has been hot? The heads were tightened 5 days ago so I am concerned that a gasket may not seal or blow if I do back it off. Can I get away with it and just leave it? The gasket kit was AJUSA and they were composite. The tension instructions on the gaskets were correct as it turns out but I did not trust them and went the extra. What a goose I am.
Anyone have service manual instructions or tips on how to get the alternator out. motor is on the right hand side looking into the engine bay from the front of the vehicle. Alternator is right hand back corner low, can't find a way to get it out.
My beloved june 1993(1994 Aust compliance) HJ galant V6 6A12, Alternator looks like it's packed it in but not entirely sure what the issue is.
just as i arrived at work, noticed an unusual whine, thinking transmission but appears to be alternator, smoke pour out around that area, alt case burning hot.
No alternator warning lamp displayed.
spent 4 hours trying to get it out, no way possible i can see unless the motor is moved?
Anyone had the displeasure of removing one with some good tips?
Also originally thought bearing trouble, but spun by hand felt normal, no noise or binding or roughness when electrically disconnected.
When everything is wire up and battery connected, resistance and very notchy as if a magnetic field is stopping it.
is this normal? I'm now thinking it's not and may be an electrical issue/shorted diode allowing battery to back feed current to the alternator, no whine with power disconnected and when connected has a burning/electronic/electric odour about it.
have no choice but to disconnect it and belts, charging each night as only short 7 k trip to work and back, hope to get buy until i can figure how to get it out and replacement or repair.
OEm alternator in the car MD188242 12v 90Amp Appears MD361625 is a direct replacement too and Bosch 0 986 JR0 151 is suppose to be for both of those as replacements.
Hi again, New problem here with Mitsu galant 96: The car shifts to the last gear (4th) at high speeds, like around 70-80 mph and it suddenly revs up to 5000 to do so. is this normal in this model or it could be a senor or mechanical problem..? Thanks!
Hi, I have a Mitsubishi galant s 96, so...there is this weird problem where there is no electrical connection to the transmission or the TCM, The car is just stuck in the 3rd gear and I'm getting high RPMs on high speed...kindda like a home limp mode, though it shifts fine from R/D. (D is only in the 3rd gear) I replaced the TCM and the car is still in the same situation. I even drove the car without the TCM plugged in..no difference! ...So I was wondering if there is a relay/fuse somewhere for the TCM or the transsmission itself? I can't locate the relay... it's neither in the fuse box next to engine or the fuse box inside under the steering wheel...
Hello all ....this is a post from down under (New Zealand)....my daughter has a 1996 1.8 VRG Gallant (97000km) and ever since it was purchased it hasn't run as good as it could ,whilst driving at a steady 100kph the car has a intermitant hesatation almost feels like a mis , mostly noticable on straight flat roads which we have plenty of in canterbury,also at times when accelerating it seems slugish and definately mises .After reading a lot of posts in this forum it looks like it is a common fault and to which no one has posted exactly what there remedy was. The problem was worse several weeks ago as the car was pinking pretty much everywhere it was driven (bad brew of fuel), that was when this forum was looked at and discovered that these cars should be run on high octain fuel,since purchased it has been run on 91 , straight away a big improvement was noticed and a can of injector cleaner put in the tank . Spark plugs have been checked and are the correct type NGK BKR5EKUD.Problem is still there .... Any help with this and where further to look would be great .....cheers Shane
looking for opinions on this camshaft cap. The marks are also now on the camshaft as well. Is the cap itself the bearing material or is it impregnated on the cap surface and now it's worn through?
I have no clue about this and I'm thinking I was not clean enough on the install. Just another note the heads were bathed with the cams out when I got the heads done 30 000k ago and I do remember all the cap surfaces looked rough maybe from the cleaning solution eating the surfaces?
I'm doing the lash adjusters and replacing the rocker seal again with OEM parts this time because i can't seem to get the leaks sorted. Also I think I've used the wrong sealant under the caps so I'm revisiting them whic is how i exposed this new issue.
Can I get away with inserting the cam seals both ends with some sealant and fitting the caps or is it mandatory to tighten the caps and tap the seals in?
I have a 1995 Mitubishi Galant and I am trying to replace the fuel filter.
I need to depressurize the fuel line and I have read different ways to do this, including one which said there was a fuse under the hood for the fuel relay which could be pulled and then start the car for a few seconds to depressurize. However, I cannot find any fuel relay fuse.
Because I live in an apartment complex, I do not have a way of LIFTING the car up easily to try to find the fuel pump relay harness, although I've looked under the car and I do not even see any type of wiring near the gas tank.
So I am wondering what are the alternative ways to depressurizing the fuel system?
A few months ago I started experiencing an occasional problem with my car. Living in Florida, sometimes it will rain and blow for hours or days, and starting in May, a few times a month I would go out and start the car, and it would start fine, but when I went to drive away, it would spit and sputter whenever I tried to accelerate. If I let off the gas, and barely pushed on it, I could get it to go, but if I tried to accelerate quickly, it would sputter. However, after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving, the problem would go away. I noticed the problem ONLY happened after it rained for several hours at a time or days, while the car remained unstarted. If I would start the car daily, I didn't have the problem. One time while it was acting up, I disconnected the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and it didn't help the problem. Also, the CEL does NOT come on at all.
Also, the problem does not occur if I drive IN the rain, nor does it occur at highway speeds; only when it sits for several days AFTER a heavy rain and then only until the car is drive for 10-15 minutes. So far this month it has only occurred once, again, after a stretch of several days of rain without being driven.
I am trying to figure out if this is an oxygen sensor problem, fuel pump, or something else. I do not think it is the fuel pump because the car ALWAYS starts fine, idles fine, does not act up at highway speeds, and does not experience any problems after it is warmed up.
Due to the fact that it happens so infrequently and only under specific circumstances, I am hesitant about investing $300 for oxygen senors without knowing exactly if this is the problem. However, in a month I have a 1700 mile drive to make (moving), and I am leery about whatever the problem is suddenly getting worse during the long trip.
Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on this? My car has 190,000 miles and has never had anything replaced other than the timing belt, spark plugs, air filter, battery; the usual routine maintenance items. But nothing major like oxygen sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc.
I have a big problem and hope someone on this board can help me out. I have a 1998 Galant LS, with 125K miles on it. I am the only owner; car came fully loaded with all the options at the time including the Automatic Climate Control from the Diamante.
Here is the problem, little over three months in the middle of the summer in New York, driving down the highway, windows down… all of the sudden I felt heat coming out of the AC vents, look at the display on the controls and it showed 90 degrees, strange… lowered to 70 degrees, just had the fan blower on no AC, the control unit beeped three times and went back up to 90. Next morning, turned the fan back on at 70 degrees, soon after once again beeped three times and went back to 90 as I tried to lowered back down the unit will fight me back and with a mind of its own will raise right back up, it was actually funny but it became a pain afterwards. I consulted my mechanic; he said the main control unit is bad, called the dealer and they don’t have the “Dash Control Unit” available anymore. If they have it will cost around $900.00, started searching around but no luck, everyone selling used parts told me in their computer system this particular model did not have Auto Controls. While searching for the part I got another problem, now the unit will lower to 65 degrees, will engage the AC and it will not turn off, the off button will not respond (none of the buttons) and the only way to turn it off was to lower the fan speed to zero. So finally after two months I found a used control unit from a ’95 Galant LS, very happy swapped the part thinking “its fixed”, to my surprise, the control unit will not respond, as you press the fan speeds 0-5 nothing will work until you reach 5 then it blows at full fan speed. My mechanic said your blower resistor is “bad” so we called it in to the dealer gave them the VIN # of the car and we got the right part for the Galant but it did not work!!, this time we took the part out and took it to the dealer, it turned out this part is for the Diamante model (which my car borrowed the Auto Climate Control system). Finally we got the exact match blower resistor, very happily tried yesterday and the silly thing still doesn’t work.
Any ideas, suggestions are greatly appreciated; I don’t know what else to do. Is the Control Unit that I just bought defective, does this car has a computer or a separate AC module? I am out of luck
Sorry for the very long email but I believe if I give you all the facts it might give you a better idea of the problem.
Hi, I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Galant S that has transmission problems. Originally, when it first started happening the O/D wouldn't shift - it went into neutral at about 40mph and then if you took your foot off the gas, it would hard shift into gear and then do it again. If I took it out of O/D, the transmission acts fine. We took it to Trak Auto and they ran the code, (since the Check Engine light came on) and they told us it was the solenoid for the transmission - which was a dealer only part.
We went to the dealer, ordered the part and took it apart and replaced the solenoids on the outside of the tranny. When my husband put the tranny back together, I couldn't get it out of park. It was locked - it wouldn't move. So he took it out again - did whatever he did and put it back together. The check engine light when out and I took it around the block. It was fine for about 5 minutes and the check engine light came back on and the O/D stopped working again. If I put it in O/D again, it goes fine until about 40mph and then shifts into neutral.
The transmission runs fine without O/D on, but for freeway driving, I understood you needed O/D. So, today I took it to Aamco. They told me that even though the check engine light is on, there are no codes at all. That I need to have the transmission pulled because something is internally wrong. They also told me it hard shifts. (I have never noticed that.)
Does anyone have any ideas on what I REALLY need to do? Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give me.
This problem started a few weeks ago, I thought it was the fact that my battery was six years old, but upon replacing the battery, the problem remains.
I have noticed that the problem is worse after it rains, and even more so after it sits for a few days. From park, if I hit the accelerator quickly, it will spit and sputter, and then finally rev up. If I depress the accelerator slowly, it will not spit or sputter. While driving, from a stop, if I depress the accelerator quickly, it will spit and sputter until I life up on the pedal and then slowly depress it again, then it will go. However, after driving the car for several miles, the problem seems to go away... it appears to happen (so far) only when it is cold and has sat overnight.
I tried disconnecting the Mass Air Flow Sensor, but the sputtering remained. I plan to replace the plugs and see if that resolves anything.
I am just wondering if anyone else has any ideas; btw, the CEL has not come on either. I did put some Techron in the gas tank the other day, but so far that hasn't seemed to help.
Can anyone tell me why the front sidelight on one side is wired for negative earth and the other side is wired the other way round making the outer casing of the bulb holder positive . I discovered this while trying to install led sidelight bulbs and could not figure out why the led's would work in one side and not the other ( led's work with current going one way only , unlike a normal bulb which will work whatever way the current is flowing) unfortunately the front sidelight bulbs have a bayonet fitting so I couldn't just fit the led the other way round. I am assuming that the light unit must be insulated for this to be wired like it is so can I just swop the wires over?
I just took my car on a trip to Moscow to see some friends. The motor is a 60k mile motor at this point. I have babied it. I have ran Valvoline full synthetic 5w/30 in the winter 10w/30 in the summers, always with energy release. I broke the motor in properly when I put it in with 30k miles. The car is a quart low now, it was a 700mile trip. It was full last oil change 2000 miles ago, and now it's just below the low mark. No oil in the water from what I can see, no oil on the ground, no smoke. Blown headgasket? I have never redlined it, the highest I have ever shifted is 5500. What to check/look for? I don't wanna keep dumping oil in it. please help. Thanks
Well I got 8gen seats at a fairly low price and since my old seats were pretty much junk yard material, I thought I'd give it a try. The front seats sit perfectly, no modding needed except I had to change the seat belt mounting holes. No biggie. But now i'm trying to install the rear seats. The bottom cushion fits perfectly into the mounting places, but I'm having problems with the back rest. The door side mounts fit nicely, but the inside ones are different. Has anyone ever installed those seats in 7g galant? If so, I would like to see some pictures of the installation since I'm not able to find any. The main problem there is, that on 8g, the seats are mounted with nuts to the chassis. But on the 7g there are special brackets on the chassis. I really wouldn't want to rush and cut these off, because maybe there is a more sensible solution.
Trying to put a 1997 Galant ES back in service. As the title indicates... what does the OBD ll code P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank No. 1)really mean the trouble is? This Galant, which sat for about 4 years with little fuel in the tank, occasionally does a 'surging-chugging' sequence at high loads, but I'm guessing (since the fuel filter is new) it probably needs to have a new strainer at the fuel pump pickup. Would that cause the P0170 DTC?
Hey guys, I have a VR4 legnum 96 running stock, now and then when im driving my car will shudder not heavy but easly noticed , happens mostly around 2, 2.5k rev's, dosnt hapn all the time somtimes dosnt hapn at all but it shudders, eg..if shudder were to happen will only occur during acceleration, increase acceleration up above 2.5k and shudder stops or deaccelerate and shudder stops , not normal, machanic told me i needed to flush and change tranz fluid, he wud do all for NZ$160, im not to sure what to do and if this machanic telling me correct info and not just trying to make some bucks off me eh,
I am posting part two to wacky window. Long / short....my windows sunroof a/c radio dont work. I posted and was instructed to replace ETACS , well after buy 3 fuse boxes I finally scored an ETACS that fits my Galant. SO excited I flew home after work and poped her in and to my surprise.... shift didnt happend , so I am pissed .About to run the car off a bridge. I tested fuses looked at fuses all good , then i tested window switch and no power at switch also no power at fuse. Can anyone tell me any other location that i might have a bad fuses or bad connection. I am frustrated .PLEASE HELP !!!!!!
I scored a 96 galant and it has issues....but first i am gonna give big up 2 this forum. Thanx 4 giving me a chance 2 be apart of. Now to the real trouble , the motor surges in park very bad and idles very high . I am thinking the trouble is massflow sensor. But my other issue that i am stumped on is no clock no power windows no sunroof its as if all is dead . I have checkd fuse box changed out fuses and still no windows anyone have an idea of what the trouble might be and how can i fix . also does anyone or can anyone get me a pic of the fuse box cover.....so i may see what fuse goes where and what size to use
I breifly touched on this topic in one of my other posts. And got my answer on whats wrong and how I can fix it. Unfortunately I dont have the time to fix this issue so I am asking is it worth fixing or just swapping out tranny.
The problem is tranny works fine until around 40 mph then it will just not work motor runs but car is not under power(tranny and engine no longer connected)..... i turn off o/d and the car is back under power. My concern is the cost to rebuild compared to the cost of swapping....
HI,I SELL MITSIBISHI GALANT SOHC ADJUSTABLES ROCKER ARMS THEY CAME FROM JAPAN AND I SELL THEM ON E BAY YOU CAN LOOK FOR THEM ON E BAY THEY ARE THE ONLY ADJUSTABLE ONES, TOU JUST PUT MITSUBISHI ROCKER ARMS OR GALANT ROCKER ARMS,TANKS.
I own a 1997 Legnum VR4 - it recently leaked oil down to the spark plugs from the front rocker cover which intially caused it to miss quite bad. Since then I have replaced the gasket seals but I still have a slight miss at times. As the 1st spark plug hole was full it managed to go up the stalk to the coil - could not replacing the coil and stalk cause this slight mis-fire?
I have a 1997 Legnum VR4 which starts and runs fine, but at times the engine does not turn off. After turning the key off I lose the dash lights but the revs continue to show. After pulling out the engine fuse and disconnecting the battery it then re-sets itself making a click on the firewall or at 2 relays - could a faulty relay cause this or my ignition? As this is an inconsistant problem... Thanks
I have a 1998 galant, automatic transmission with cold start problems.when cold the engine ignites after two or more start kicks. if i shift to D drive the rpm goes below 200rpm until the engine stall forcing me to wait for thr engine to warm up. when the engine is warm this problem does not occur. what would be the solution?
I have just purchased a '99 Galant GDI 1.8ltr auto. The car has hpi check (never involved in an accident) and a full service history since it was imported from japan in 2002. The one and only owner of the car, after its import has changed the fuel pump before two years due to a fault and he told me that I have to keep it in mind that these cars appear to have problems with faulty fuel pumps. The car 3 days ago started having rough iddle when standing and especially when the engine was hot. The needle was moving from 500 to 900 rpm constantly but when engaged to D in the gearbox the iddle was getting better or when the air condition was on. Two days ago the engine started to shut off when the car was standing in traffic lights even in D mode. Yesterday the car drove like it lost at least 60% of its power and with three cylinders instead of 4. I transported the car (not driving it but with a recovery vechicle) to my authorized mitsubishi garage. The engineers told me that Galant GDIs have problems with fuelling in general but they claim that it could be anything from a faulty fuel pump(again ???), an airflow sensor - which by the way is extremely expensive - to a throttle intake. The car never had any mechanical or electrical problems in the past. Most people I discussed with about the car and the problem it has, have told me that 99% is a faulty fuel pump. Any help or recommendations will be highly appreciated. I am desparate !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was going 70 mph on the highway turned on my exit and started acting like it ran out of gas, it stalled and i started it back up and it wouldnt accelerate and the rpms wouldnt go up and if i put my foot on the gas too far and let go it would stall, rpms never went past 750, it idles at 500 rpm now, it wont go, never had problems before, its a 1995 S Galant Manual
Hi, I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Galant that I need programming instructions for it's keyless entry remotes. This is the 2 button dealer installed system and the remote looks like a Ford remote but it only has lock and unlock buttons. It is made by TRW and the part number is 3165189, the fcc id number is GQ43VT4T. These are the same numbers as the Ford remotes like these. The programming for the Ford models uses a connector that has to be jumped but I do not know if the Mitsubishi's use a program connector or where it is located if it does. If anyone could help me I would appreciate it. Thank you
My Galant hesitates or bogs anytime I press into gas 1/3 of the way down. If I accelerate very smoothly it wont bog. It will hesitate cold or warm, seems worse after car is warm and really bad if I am on an incline or needing to accelerate quickly, or just leaving a stop light and stepping on gas slightly too hard. Feathering the gas does not help. have added 4 cans of fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank. I drive 20 miles to work everyday at highway speeds and have no trouble when car is at those speeds, but accelerating is smooth then, even on hills in cruise control. the car starts great and idles fine.
A friend of mine has a 1997 Galant ES. It has been giving trouble intermittently statring. From reading posts with similar problems I think it may be the ignigion switch. Since I am mechanically challenged I need nice clear pictures and or instructions on how to replace the switch.
Here's hopefully a simple question someone can answer. Does anyone know how much if any free play is allowable or normal for these hubs?
I just replaced these with some aftermarket parts and one hub felt quite tight to turn and the other was relatively free. After i fitted them the tight hub has nil end play if you grab the tyre and rock it 12 & 6, 9&3 O'clock positions, the other has some movement maybe 0.5-1mm at the outermost point of the tyre which would equate to very little at the hub centre.
I'm just worried maybe I should not have beeen so cheap and got genuine hubs in the first place.
I don't know what amount would be considered allowable or normal. Rocking the car on the ground I can't detect anything significant but with the old worn hubs you could hear them knock.
HEY mitsubishi forum MY name is BRYAN from sanantonio texas, I have a 97 galant automatic 2.4 liter IT started acting funny two days before xmas ! sob just my luck to MAKE a long story short the car started jumping out of gear and the rpms kept shooting up I put the CAR to A HALT CHECK eNGINE Light CAME on IT READ BAD TCM . CAR WAS MOVING LESS THEN 20 MPH now it will not move at all i dropped the tran pan and no shavings at all JUST SOME DIRTY OIL THAT HAS BEEN CHANGED ALONG WITH A NEW GASKET AND FILTER I NEED SOMEONE OPION TOO WHERE TO START cuz im ready to scrap the car
I need help figuring out the correct wiring of my Trinary switch in the receiver drier. It's on a 1994 galant but I expect there's a good chance that the same principles and wiring colours may have been used on other Mitsubishis.
What's happened is that I did not realise this connection had been modified by cutting off the original connector and then reterminating the wires with crimps. Problem is when the wires come out you have no idea where they were instead of having a connector which normally only fit one way.
It has four connectors and the wire colours are green(white trace), green (yellow trace), green, black.
Can someone tell me where each goes?
I can't even work out the pinouts of the switch nor has any search found anything for me.
I have been reading here about the Galant AT transmissions - mine seems to be a sensor that needs replacing - my trans will work fine for days and then jump out of gear unexpectedly while driving - usually in 3rd gear to 4th - I think - maybe from 4th to O/D - not sure.
If I slip the gear shift back to neutral for a few seconds - then back to D - it will usually works fine again. Now the check engine light has come on and stays on. I can often drive 100 miles or more between a slip.
How do I determine which sensor is bad? How do I replace?
If this answer is here somewhere and I have missed it? - I apologize.
Hi guys, let me get to the point. im having problems with my 95 galant l4 sohc 2.4L. its worsting every step of the way. first there was the sudden shift shocks! next im stuck in either second or third gear, if i turned the key off then on again it resumes fine then the cycle begins all over. now the tranny does nt shift properly at all. any help would be gladly appreciated.
I need help again with this 1994 Galant. the car is surging slightly in the low to mid throttle area. Seems ok at full throttle and engine power seems ok too.
The head has recently been off /on the vehicle so new gaskets and seals everywhere. I have no knowledge of how it ran prior to the head repairs as i bought in damaged.
The car starts perfectly and has a nice strong and steady idle. It has no problem revving out to the redline.
Parked if I raise the throttle above idle say 1500 - 2000RPM I get this constant deviation up and down in RPM of about 100-200RPM. When driven you can feel it surging.
Dead cold it does not do it but after a couple of minutes running you can hear it gradually coming in. It also seems less of a problem when it's hot but is still there slightly.
So far I've had a look at these things.
1. O2 sensor, original denso item was still there and had about 0.2 - 0.25V outputted. This was pretty constant, very little change and full throttle blips did not show any reaction either. I assumed it was time for a new one but could only find a NTK (NGK) one to fit.
With new sensor Noticeable difference in readings which were constantly changing and varied from 0.1 -0.86V. The other thing I noticed between the denso and NTK was that the new item had a lower heater circuit resistance but I would not expect that to be too critical.
The new sensor seemed to reduce the engine speed deviation slightly but that might purely be psychological.
2. I've had a look at plenum and manifold bolts but they seem tight enough.
3. TPS sensor- total resistance falls within specs and it appears to gradually change from high resistance to low resistance at full throttle.
4. Coolant sensor- has correct resistance at cold and operating temperatures so i am assuming here that the resistance is changing correctly as the engine warms up.
5. I've tried spraying aerosol penetrate around injectors, joints etc to detect leaks but no changes.
6. There are no check engine lights showing.
7. When I was working on the old O2 sensor I experimented with it disconnected, and with the car stationary the surging appeared to stop but came back when it was reconnected. New O2 sensor no change.
8. The thermostat appears like it may be stuck open slightly. When driven the temp gauge dives to cold but it will reach or display op temp when it is parked. I'm not sure if this would contribute to the problem.
9. The ISC motor is working fine
10. The PCV valve is free and operating correctly.
11. I've removed and blocked off the purge and brake booster vacuum lines from the inlet just in case these had internal leaks. No result here either.
12 Fuel filter, pump and air filter replaced in May 08, 30 000Ks ago.
I figure this leaves me the MAF, ECU or undetected vacuum leaks.
Oh' and the fuel is probably 4 months old so not sure if this is also an issue.
The MAF sensor is a 5 wire but I have been unable to find an exact service manual for this car so I don't know what it should read or the pin-outs.
The ECU I'm too scared to touch at this point unless it's really necessary as parts are hard to find here and ridiculous in price.
These parts are too dear to go out and purchase on a hunch so is there anything more i can do or have I done something wrong?
Would love to hear any tips on this one . Thanks in Advance
heres the situation, i bought a 95 galant a few mouths ago an the tranny was defaulted in third gear. thinking to myself no problem just get another tranny, like the previous galant i ve owned, only difference was that tranny was burned up by the previous owner. hoping to get lucky again i swaped out the tranny for a used one. The tranny seemed sluggish when compared to the first galants tranny i swapped out, which was a 98. Further down the line out of no where the tranny starts to suddenly down shift into third gear, it shifts smoothly throughout all gears then just down shifts. any help out there would be appreciated
It's strange to me that thru all my googling and visiting websites, its as if they perhaps believe it wouldnt be profitable to CARRY/SELL premolded replacement carpet for those particular years. It doesn't make much sense at all, personally.
Does anyone know of a place locally/internationally/ONLINE that makes/carries/sells premolded carpet for the 96?
I've got stock gray which is totally trashed from the previous owner and would like to replace it with a darker color.