My 96 is throwing the p0505 code and idling up and down once it reaches operating temp. I have replaced the tps, iac, and the mass air flow and its still doing the same thing. Any suggestions would be great thanks

When I get into the car and turn the ignition to "ON" I can hear a click from the engine compartment. As long as I have my foot on the brake when I turn the key to start it will usually crank up on the first try (when the car is cold). If I drive the car around and then turn it off the car won't start. I go through the same process as I would when the car is cold but when I turn the key nothing happens. When the key goes back to "ON" it will click in the engine compartment again. I normally turn the car off and start all over. Usually after several tries it will crank. I don't do anything different when it starts after the car is warm. I guess the car just finally decides to crank. Any ideas? Maybe the starter soleniod? Its done this since I bought the car but I normally don't worry about it because the car is driven from my home to work and then from work to home. I just figured I would ask to see if anyone has had a similar problem. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys,

So, It is time to replace my lower control arms, It seems that the bushings have ripped on the straight control arms. Should be an easy fix, but my question is what brand do I buy? Do I get Moog's or Dorman's or get the Duralast (autozone's brand). Anyone ever replace their's or maybe know which of the three are superior. Also, should I go in there and replace the bent arms, as far as I can tell for now they look fine.

Thanx,
ILukester

Before I even start, I wanted to ask how difficult it is to change the valve cover gasket on a '95 2.4L engine? It appears like part of the valve cover goes under the timing belt shroud- so I wanted to verify if this is true or not. Also- is it simple to replace the spark plug tube o-rings on the valve cover?

I'm hoping that all I have to do is unfasten the bolts and it slides out from under the shroud- but before I started buying parts and disassembling- I wanted to check first.

Any help or advice anyone can give is appreciated. I've replaced valve cover gaskets on other vehicles, but have never on the Galant.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Idle Air control For my 98 2.4L Galant seems ridiculous close to 300 dollars from advance auto parts BWD Part #21982 Advance Auto Parts Online Quote
The throttle body from junkyard is 100 with the IACV attached . I took apart the side plate and saw the culprit to be A gear busted off a chunk now my idle is all outta wack . I tried to see if i can get a rebuild kit but no luck perhaps theres an alternative i havent thought of

97 galant calls for sp2, now it's sp3
what type of fluid do you guys use?
what about castrol or valvoline universal?

Ok, I found out that my distributor is bad. I called up a auto parts store and they tell me there are 2 different distributors for this car but they come up on their computer as the same part number. the 2 models have different cam rotor diameters. One is .475 and the other is .526 of an inch. i measured mine and its .526 and the oem number is t2t-59671. I see some used ones on ebay that have the same t2t-59671. Ive tried to message the seller a few times but have had no response. With the same oem numbers, do you think this is the right matching distributor? Thx Kevin

i went out to start my car and it just cranks. i took a spark plug out and checked for spark, nothing! i recently put in a new battery and alternator. car has been idling really low and lights dim when i turn on the heatet blower/rear defroster or slow down to stop! any ideas for these problems? thx kevin

I have a 1995 Galant S. 187,000 Mi.

2 Weeks ago it sputtered and died on the highway.
It was the distributer and my local mechanic replaced it.
The next day in almost the same place it died and the distributer went again.

My mechanic replaced it free.

Now it just stalls out of nowhere. It will run fine sometimes for 5 minutes or as
many as 20.
I'll hear a click behind the radio and it will just shut off. But then it starts again.

It run perfectly fine otherwise.
I've been told it could be the ECU or Fuel Pump.

Thanks,
Rick

I need to diag my IAC tomorrow. What are the basic steps to diag it (specifically checking resistance with a OHM meter)?
I am looking for the steps and values I should see if my IAC is good or Bad.

Thanks in Advance.

'98 Galant, 141,000 miles. Idle speed unstable. RPM varies cyclically as if searching for equilibrium. OBD error code is 0505, "idle control system malfunction". After start idle varies between 1500 and 2000 every few seconds. When warmed up, cycling idle speed can reach 3000. Did not find any loose vacuum hoses. According to my son, problem appeared with no previous symptoms. Using stethescope, heard IAC stepping motor pulse when ignition key was engaged. Measured resistance of IAC inline connector terminals. Values same as working 1997 Galant. With air intake hose off, throttle plate appeared clean and unobstructed. Any help on likely problem/failed part next step. Thanks.

Does any have a diagram of where the egr hoses go, I know they are color coded. I have a check engine light on and my friend checked
the code and it says egr hoses are crossed.

Thanks

Hey there everyone

I have a Mitsubishi Galant 1.8L VX 1996 (EA1A) and I need to replace the rear suspension beam as well as the arms that connect it to the bit that bolts onto the brake hub.

I have attached a picture, does any one know the names of any of these arms?

Also, does anyone know if the 2.4L Galant Viento (EA3A) will have the same suspension parts?


any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

after the trans gets hot from driving it starts to blow trans fluid from around the tourqe converter seal. the car has a new tq conv, and seal (these where just installed, ol tqconv had a bad groove in it).....this car ran fine 2yrs ago when it was parked because of the distributer going out. any on have any ideas.......mabiee a cloged trans cooler? it dosent do it until the car is driven......it can idle all day with no leak,but after about 2 miles of driving it.. it will start to blow out fluid. also my dad put dex/merc III fluid in it and it seems this is ill advised...........what fluid should be used as we cant find the ds spIII it calls for.

Hi,

I need a new boot lid for my 1997 Galant 2.0L Chassis E EC1A SR6C5, Engine 4G93 HJ1483

Could anyone plz tell me if a boot lid from a EA1A Chassis will fit on my galant?

Thanks.

Hi, everyone.

The screen the radio and the cd box, all are synchronized, so, I need to buy the original radio, where can I buy it?

Help me please.

Regards.

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Maciek

This is my first posting so please bear with me. I will try to be as thorough as possible in describing this issue.
I have a 1995 Galant with and automatic transmission. I recently had an oil change done. Afterwards I noticed that I had white smoke coming from the exhaust. It seemed to stop after 5 minutes or so. But then it started to seemingly drop into neutral whenever I made a sharp turn. My first thought was that maybe it was low on transmission fluid. So I parked and checked it. Sure enough it was about 3/4 of a quart low so I topped it of.
However, as soon as I "hit the gas" a little hard, the smoke was back... with a vengeance! It looked like I had a cloud coming from my exhaust pipe. Uh oh. Not good I though.
Unfortunately, I was still 10 miles from home. So I put in in reverse, backed up, and the car stalled out as soon as I hit the brakes. Now I was pretty sure I had a vacuum leak somewhere. After cranking up again, I began to make my way home. But I soon learned that I could only tap the brakes, or I would stall out again.
When I finally did get the car home, I found the transmission fluid was low by almost a quart! Now I had an idea about both the white smoke and the vacuum leak. I had the same thing happen to a 1991 Ford Explorer when the Vacuum Modulator Valve went out on the transmission.
Now the questions behind my long winded story are:

1) Were is the vacuum regulator located at on this transmission? (After searching the internet, and asking my local Advanced Auto Parts store, I'm pretty sure it has one)

2) If I'm wrong, and this transmission is totally electronic as I have been told by a few people, how else could i be "burning" transmission fluid? I'm almost 100% certain that the white smoke that I have is due to that because I have checked all of the other fluids and none have went down except the ATF. And, the smoke stops as soon as the transmission fluid gets low.


Again, I apologize if this is a bit drawn out and unorganized. Like I said, this is my first posting. Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/style_emo...lt/liebe011.gif

Alright... Me and a friend recently went half and half to buy a 94 Galant GS "Gold Edition"... So its the 2.4 L DOHC, 4 wheel discbrake model that was only sold in 94 in the US... reasonably rare here...

Anyway... before buying this car... it spent nearly 5 months in a shop, for a engine rebuild, and a transmission problem... so supposedly they have replaced the transmission... this car is the automatic version...

the problem when it went into the shop... it wouldnt go past 2nd gear... thats been fixed... this sunday we pushed that car to 135 in a little street race... but even before the race, we found that the gear shift doesnt exactly match the dashboard display of what gear we are in... the shifter says Neutral... and the dash says drive.. we found the dash is more accurate... i know thats not normal

other then that, on occasion, if we bring it into gear to quickly... you hit the gas.. and get a tiny jerk, then its as if your in neutral.. and yet the display says drive...

hopefully someone has some ideas... we'd take it to the shop.. but the damn guy barely speaks english

I am looking to buy a 97 Galant ES 2.4L auto with 83,000 miles on it, I know the timing belt was due at 60k and I will use this as a means of leverage to get a better deal if it has not been done. Is there any quick way to tell if the belt has been changed? Like is there a upper timing cover that can easily be removed so I can at least look at the belt? I have an 02 Lancer and my upper cover comes off easy.

Also are there any other issues to look out for on these, I've noticed a few posts about the auto transmission...

This seems like a good deal anyway it has leather, sunroof, PW, Locks, CD player and he wants $2500.00

Thanks in advance...

Hello all ....this is a post from down under (New Zealand)....my daughter has a 1996 1.8 VRG Gallant (97000km) and ever since it was purchased it hasn't run as good as it could ,whilst driving at a steady 100kph the car has a intermitant hesatation almost feels like a mis , mostly noticable on straight flat roads which we have plenty of in canterbury,also at times when accelerating it seems slugish and definately mises .After reading a lot of posts in this forum it looks like it is a common fault and to which no one has posted exactly what there remedy was. The problem was worse several weeks ago as the car was pinking pretty much everywhere it was driven (bad brew of fuel), that was when this forum was looked at and discovered that these cars should be run on high octain fuel,since purchased it has been run on 91 , straight away a big improvement was noticed and a can of injector cleaner put in the tank . Spark plugs have been checked and are the correct type NGK BKR5EKUD.Problem is still there .... Any help with this and where further to look would be great .....cheers Shane

I'm about to do a power steering pump swap, my old one's bearings are bidding their farewell and I don't want them to retire on me while I'm driving. So, does anyone have experience changing them out, and do you have any tips to make the swap as fast and painless as possible? Thanks

First off I wanted to say hey, I'm new to working on cars so if I seem to have made any huge mistakes don't hesitate to point them out.

For the last week, I've been working on a 1994 Galant that broke down going down the highway and my dad didn't want to fix. He got a new car and I'm fixing this one. Turns out the timing belt broke, so I went and snagged up a new one, and a new valve cover gasket since the one that was on there was pretty old, probably original (104K miles). I got some of my mechanic friends together and we determined the valves were bent with a compression tester and a visual confirmation, so I went out to a salvage yard and got a new head, checked it, and bought it. Got new gaskets for everything I took off and new spark plugs (those had like 20k miles on em) and I've got it mostly put back together. I put the new silent shaft belt on, but the Chilton manual warns that the alignment could be 180 degress off with the timing marks aligned, so, I want to make sure it isn't. It mentions a plug somewhere but for the life of me I can't find it, I'm calling a dealer tomorrow but if anyone here can help I'd love it, especially if you have pics. I also wouldn't mind pics of the proper alignment for everything, I'm pretty sure i have it down but I don't want to get it off and need another new head... I've looked online at a few manuals and such but it's all very vague. I also wanted to make sure that all the maintenance I have planned for it once I get it running is good, or if I need anything else before my trip in November which will be about 2200 miles long, as well as any essential spare parts you think would be good for roadside repairs.

All new belts, spark plugs, thermostat gaskets, coolant gasket, head gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plug gaskets
New windshield, tires, wipers
Fluid change (Oil, coolant, transmission, brakes, steering, etc)
Air filter, oil filter, fuel filter

I have a 98 gdi vrg manual galant.....leaking gear oil..changed a washer but still leaking..what else could it be?

thanks

At last after a new set of spark plugs and a thorough engine clean, my car drives near perfect again. My mechanic (the new one, not the others from mitsubishi garage that did not even bother whats wrong with the car) told me that it is wise to change also the spark plug wires and their coils.
Unfortunately in Cyprus the car was only imported from private dealers straight from Japan, meaning that it is very difficult to source any parts (particularly electrical stuff). One possibility is to order them from the official Mitsubishi dealership, although it is going to take at least a month before I have them delivered from Japan. Does anybody know where can I find a source for parts for my car (except from ebay) e.g. spark plug wires and coils??????
The car is a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant GDI 1.8 automatic right hand drive.
Thank you very much

At last my Galant Gdi 1.8ltr. auto has found a new garage!! Mitsubishi official garage did not manage to identify the problems of misfires and rough iddle although the engine was working like new whenever they started the car in the garage's yard. A friend of mine took the car from the dealers garage to take it to another garage as I found their customer service very poor (and I was at work all day) and surprise surprise...When he reached the highway less than a mile far from mitsubishi's garage the engine started working with three cylinders again and lost almost all its power, before stoping and refusing to start again!!!!! Anyway after the usual recovery service phone call and rescue, the car is now in a new garage. The mechanic has already replaced all 4 spark plugs as he said that one of them was full of water and also all 4 were fairly old. He is going to keep the car for one or two days maximum more in the garage to give the engine an overall check and cleaning all air intakes and hoses. After changing the spark plugs with new iridium ones the car already drives like a dream.
What the fuck was mitsubishi's mechanics were doing keeping the car inside their garage for more than one week ???????
I insisted when I had the car delivered to them to check the spark plugs and the fuel filter and have them changed anyway.
But they did not even bother!!!!!!!
I hope the problem with my engine was only the old spark plugs and the water inside the spark plug cable.
Now that the car is in the garage should I replace anything else for precaution reasons only in order to make my engine rev happier???
I have already changed oil, air filter and the front brake pads.
Thank you very much in advance

It's been a while since I have been on a diamond star board, but it feels just like home.

Quick question, where in the passenger cabin is the fuel pump relay located for a 1993 Galant? I thought it was somewhere near the radio, but I saw nothing that looked like a relay!

I've got not voltage to the pump so I am assuming a bad relay. Another thought was the MFI or MPI relay or fuse, but I think if this is out power to the cabin is zero.

Any assistance is appreciated.

My car is still in Mitsubishi official garage and the assholes did not even check whats wrong... They do not know nothing and I am still waiting.
I think I better call the recovery service and take it to another garage. One week waiting and no news yet.....The only news will be a hefty bill I thinkl, and my doubts that the car will still have problems. The only reason for keeping the car inside the authorized dealers garage, is beacuse they have the computerized diagnostic system and software.

I have just purchased a '99 Galant GDI 1.8ltr auto. The car has hpi check (never involved in an accident) and a full service history since it was imported from japan in 2002. The one and only owner of the car, after its import has changed the fuel pump before two years due to a fault and he told me that I have to keep it in mind that these cars appear to have problems with faulty fuel pumps. The car 3 days ago started having rough iddle when standing and especially when the engine was hot. The needle was moving from 500 to 900 rpm constantly but when engaged to D in the gearbox the iddle was getting better or when the air condition was on. Two days ago the engine started to shut off when the car was standing in traffic lights even in D mode. Yesterday the car drove like it lost at least 60% of its power and with three cylinders instead of 4. I transported the car (not driving it but with a recovery vechicle) to my authorized mitsubishi garage. The engineers told me that Galant GDIs have problems with fuelling in general but they claim that it could be anything from a faulty fuel pump(again ???), an airflow sensor - which by the way is extremely expensive - to a throttle intake. The car never had any mechanical or electrical problems in the past. Most people I discussed with about the car and the problem it has, have told me that 99% is a faulty fuel pump. Any help or recommendations will be highly appreciated. I am desparate !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi,

Can someone please help me with the removal of the clock on top of the dash which no longer seems to work (it flickers on and off), and also the removal of the stereo. Also, if someone can supply the colour codes for the stereo wires that would be great.

Cheers.

Can anyone tell me where I can purchase or find a transmission oil pump for a 97 Galant F4A23 trans? The gear is broken and that is what is causing the oil not to be pumped.

Ok i just recently bought a 95 Galant S for $300 with a blown motor with 119000 miles which is M/T, because my 96 galant LS was giving me too many suspension and A/T problems.

I have just recently took the good engine with 165k miles on it out of the 96. However, i am having a whole bunch of trouble trying to take the blown motor out of the 95.. is there something different that you have to do to take the engine out of a M/T car rather then an A/T?

On the plus side the previous owners have kept all the service receipts since it was bought on the 95. The 95 basically has all new stuff on it, it just needs a motor.

Hey guys and girl's
I just bought a 97 STR Legnum and Ive noticed that on 3/4 of a tank of gas it so far has only got 200km and thats like 35litres of gas, which in almost all cases is to higher consumption? Is it normal for the 2.5 legnums? Can some one please help? Ive had experience with the 97 gdi Galant and that gets almost 500km off that much fuel, I understand mine is going to use more due to engine size but should there be that much of a difference??

Oh and its tiptronic

Another thing is every 2nd or 3rd time i start the car the engine will start but all dash features will turn off? would this be the battery beign to small for a v6? it seems relatively small to me? and when this happens an i move the stick to drive it makes a graunching sound and the abs wont activate properly.

HELP PLEASE

Hi I need help to find out what is causing a bop bop sound to come from the engine intake whenever I turn the steering from left to right. If I take off the wire connected to the steering pump the noise goes away but the engine struggles if I turn the steering. any assistance is appreciated.

I bought a '98 a few months ago and have been running it w/o any problems. The other night bought gas at the same place I always buy it, and yes I buy the cheapest, and within 5 minutes had rough idle, loss of power and have used 1/2 of the tank within 3 days having gone about 20 miles. I thought at first fuel injector cleaner, bought some, followed directions, put in tank. Not much of a change. My son bought some dry gas and put it in, still not much of a change. So now I am thinking fuel filter, but where is it ?? Owners manual doesn't seem to tell. The former owner had all paperwork, but never could see where the filter might have been changed. This vehicle has 133k on it. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm getting ready to replace the Valve lash adjusters on my 1997 Galant. I wanted to know if there is any special tool needed?


Also the reason I'm doing this is because the engine started to make a loud knocking noise under the valve cover. I removed the valve cover and found two of the rocker arms on the intake side with losts of play in them. When you rocked the arm back you could see the lash adjuster slip out alittle and tap the top of the valve where they touch. I hope this makes sense.


Also does anyone have the torque specs, and pattern for the bolts that hold the rail that the rocker arms are on?

Any advice or recomendations before I start this would be greatly appreciated I am by no means a master mechanic but do have mechanical ability.

We have a 96 Galant S. Code 1750 shows up and the tranny sometimes acts weird. Where is the location of the TCU? thanks in advance for any help.

I just received a 1998 Galant with a f4a23 automatc trans, the people who owned it before replaced the trans because it was slipping (76,000 miles). Their mechanic had replace with another trans, I don't know if it was rebuilt, after 3 months of use that one is slipping. Here are the symptoms, no error codes, engine revs high with slipping in every position. I removed the pan and there was quite a bit of debris son I cleaned it, replaces teh filer and blew out the lines, still the same. After reading some of the posts here about removing one of teh lines to see if oil is circulating through which it's not. So my question is what do I look for and what can I do,rebuild or replace. I would try to do the work myself because I want to give the car to my daughter.

Thanks

Hi everyone -

I've kicked the tires so to speak on the search function and seen several others posts bout similar probs, but none like this exactly.

I have a 96 Galant S. Stock eng/trans. No changes. I purchased this car knowing it had a undiagnosed issue with the trans possibly. I drove it a 1/4 mi and saw for myself. The Galant would not shift out of 1st, it seemed almost stuck in 1st. The engine revved high, close to 4000rpms. Just wouldn't shift to second.

I've asked around and I've gotten everything from "It's an o2 sensor in the trans. needing replacement" to "Take the governor off and it should be fine" to the most recent and most likely from the sound and who its coming from(an import familiar mechanic) - "It's an electrical solenoid possibly gone out, which you'll have to remove the trans and replace the entire valve body AND solenoid which will run like 300-400 dollars". I've seen on here someone say it could be a TCC issue? whatever that is, im not exactly familiar to be honest.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I'm not really worried about the 300-400 cost, but, it seems kinda weird I could potentially replace the entire trans for close to the same cost for the cost of replacing a solenoid/valve body. I just want to figure out what the issue is because my only other option is my gas guzzling Chevy lowrider which has its own transmission issues(gears stripping/slipping from 1st to 3rd).

Any advice, suggestions or feedback on possible given diagnosis gladly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

- J

Hi,
I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Galant S that has transmission problems. Originally, when it first started happening the O/D wouldn't shift - it went into neutral at about 40mph and then if you took your foot off the gas, it would hard shift into gear and then do it again. If I took it out of O/D, the transmission acts fine. We took it to Trak Auto and they ran the code, (since the Check Engine light came on) and they told us it was the solenoid for the transmission - which was a dealer only part.

We went to the dealer, ordered the part and took it apart and replaced the solenoids on the outside of the tranny. When my husband put the tranny back together, I couldn't get it out of park. It was locked - it wouldn't move. So he took it out again - did whatever he did and put it back together. The check engine light when out and I took it around the block. It was fine for about 5 minutes and the check engine light came back on and the O/D stopped working again. If I put it in O/D again, it goes fine until about 40mph and then shifts into neutral.

The transmission runs fine without O/D on, but for freeway driving, I understood you needed O/D. So, today I took it to Aamco. They told me that even though the check engine light is on, there are no codes at all. That I need to have the transmission pulled because something is internally wrong. They also told me it hard shifts. (I have never noticed that.)

Does anyone have any ideas on what I REALLY need to do? Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give me.

Hey all,

Have a Mitsubishi 4 speed tiptronic. Thing is it shifts fine in manual tip mode but when I have it in full auto is shift like its a somewhat confused.

From first to second it changes then goes into a false neutral then changes to second.

So take off in first during the shift to second it goes into neutral but revs drop say 1000rpms (WTF would cause this) and then engage second gear.

In tip mode it does not do it, and gear shifts are fine. Oil is still red and does not have a burning smell.

Anyone help?

Thanks.

Hello,
Thanks for any help you may be able to give me....
Basically,,My 95 Galant with a 2.4 and manual trans stalled a few times over a couple days and eventually restarted....
This time it never has started back up....
Here is what i did to the car while going through the forums here....

I had the battery checked,,it is good....
Tested alternator,,it is good....
Replaced the starter....(it was old and smelling burnt when it was cranked on)
Replaced fuel pump,,it pumps and works when the key is turned to start,,because i have fuel coming out the pressure regulator when it is cranked....
Replaced fuel filter....
Replaced fuel pressure regulator....
Replaced distributor,,plugs,,etc,,for tune up....

Basically,,i have fuel at the rail,,but not making it through the injectors....
The car starts when i spray a small amount of starter fluid in the air intake....
What is left for me to try next??
How do i test the injectors with a voltmeter??
I have heard of the mfi stopping the fuel from making it through the injectors,,but i have no idea where that is at on a 95....
I have a Chilton manual on the car but it is not much on the technical info....
Thanks for any insight....
Tim....

Alright I walked out to my car after work one night it was magically louder and I mean a lot louder. Finally got around to checking things out and at the flex pipe that comes right after the manifold has rusted through at its connector to the back section of the exhaust........sorry its hard to describe. I found that whole section of pipe up to the cat for around $120. I didn't pay but $100 for the car so I'm not replacing the whole pipe section. Just wanted to see if anyone had any luck with one of those repair kits from a parts store? Any suggestions? When I say its rusted through I mean the flex part is not touching its connector that holds it to the actual exhaust pipe.

1994 Mitsu Galant LS

Hello guys and gals.New to the forum and new to Mitsubishi.Could someone tell me if I have an OBD1 or OBD2 car.It's a 1995 Galant S.I bought the car recently and it's CLEAN! From an older gentleman who's wife recently passed away,didn't need 2 vehicles anymore.The story you always hear about,but never happen to you.Well,it finally happened to me!! Sweet deal.Anyway,nedd to know what kind and where port is located.Bought Chilton's manual,but not much help there.I did something really stupid and sprayed engine and compartment with Super Green degreaser and hosed off with garden hose.Now it won't start!! I changed distributor cap and rotor.Spark plugs and wires thinking I had wet them.Still no luck.Could I have possibly shorted out alternator or something else?Car ran like a fine tuned watch before this.Something else I can look for?I'm sorry for asking so many questions,but I'm stumped.Thanks for any help or direction anyone can give,Nick.

1998 Mitz Galant, 2.4, AT
We have had an issue with this transnmission for about three months now. It seems that essentially all of it's shifting capability has disapeared. With the OD truned off, it does start out in first, then will hard shift (if you keep the rpms up) to third, there is no reverse at all. I believe this is limp mode on the car. With the OD turned on, it takes off most of the time, but then just seems to go into neutral after a short distance. We have been driving the car minimally. Trying to be easy on the car by taking off in first, reving to about 2800, then letting off the gas it will shift relatively smoothly to 3rd when it reaches about 900 rpm, then you can give it more gas and continue down the road. We try to keep it under 40.

I have read numerous posts about replacing the over run clutch, which I did this weekend, no difference. Still no revese, no continual shifting 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD. I also replaced the transmission filter and fluid.

At this point, I'm assuming that it's time to replace the transmission, but thought I would throw it out to you guys to see if you can come up with some alternatives. I'm not thinking that a new (rebuilt) transmission is in this car's future since it already has 225K miles. But if it is something that is easier to deal with, I'm game for that.

When my headlights are on and ignition off with my door open it doesnt make a sound or anything and thus me draining my battery like 10 times since i got the car. what could be the problem?

3000 rpm at 70mph is that normal.. if not what it?

I have 98 Galant. I have recently had trouble with what I think is my ignition. When I put the key in it will not turn at all to start. The steering wheel is not locked. If I play with the key ****ling it sometimes it will turn over and start right away other times I am sitting ****ling for days. Since this has happened I have managed to come u with a way to leave the key in and not completely turn it to the off position. My question do you think the whole ignition need to be replaced or its it something else. What would be the estimated cost of this job?

How do i properly reset and restart the tcm?

I have 97 Galant w/126k ran great but now I have a rough Idle . I changed the Idle control valve,changed plugs and wires cleaned throttle body and still rough any words of advice will be appreciated