Hey guys, I have a VR4 legnum 96 running stock, now and then when im driving
my car will shudder not heavy but easly noticed , happens mostly around 2, 2.5k rev's, dosnt hapn all the time somtimes dosnt hapn at all but it shudders, eg..if shudder were to happen will only occur during acceleration, increase acceleration up above 2.5k and shudder stops or deaccelerate and shudder stops , not normal, machanic
told me i needed to flush and change tranz fluid, he wud do all for NZ$160, im not to sure what to do and if this machanic telling me correct info and not just trying to make some bucks off me eh,

help would be good.

thanks polarbeast

hey everyone,
Well I am new to this forum and a new owner of a 95 galant auto with 145k. Well so far I like the car but I am curious about the idle. When the car is warm and I am stopped I'm gear the idle ranges from 700 to 900. The majority of the time it is steady at 750 but there are times where it will be somewhere around 700 or as high as 850 900. Also after driving and I put the car in park the idle will rise up to about 1200 the majority of time but doesn't come back down to normal idle. There are times when the idle after parking will go up to 1500-1600 and doesn't come back down to normal idle. I am not sure but I have never experienced this in any of my other cars. Anyone have amy advice about this. Thanks.

AJ

Hi,
I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Galant S that has transmission problems. Originally, when it first started happening the O/D wouldn't shift - it went into neutral at about 40mph and then if you took your foot off the gas, it would hard shift into gear and then do it again. If I took it out of O/D, the transmission acts fine. We took it to Trak Auto and they ran the code, (since the Check Engine light came on) and they told us it was the solenoid for the transmission - which was a dealer only part.

We went to the dealer, ordered the part and took it apart and replaced the solenoids on the outside of the tranny. When my husband put the tranny back together, I couldn't get it out of park. It was locked - it wouldn't move. So he took it out again - did whatever he did and put it back together. The check engine light when out and I took it around the block. It was fine for about 5 minutes and the check engine light came back on and the O/D stopped working again. If I put it in O/D again, it goes fine until about 40mph and then shifts into neutral.

The transmission runs fine without O/D on, but for freeway driving, I understood you needed O/D. So, today I took it to Aamco. They told me that even though the check engine light is on, there are no codes at all. That I need to have the transmission pulled because something is internally wrong. They also told me it hard shifts. (I have never noticed that.)

Does anyone have any ideas on what I REALLY need to do? Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give me.

My 1994 galant exhibited overheating and it consumed oil.
I sent it to a garage where they top overhauled and at the same time the timing belt was replaced.

While the overheating and the oil consumption had been solved. New anomaly came up. The engine suddenly stops. After this the engine can still be started but cannot rev up.
I must then wait for quite few minutes and re-start. After than then it is ok.

Anyone out there who knows this? please help!

So I am having a problem with the defroster. The selector knob blows consistent air on all of the settings except for on full defrost. When on full defrost the air to the windshield is very faint not coming out too strong. But you can certainly hear that the fan is on high. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should check? Any help would be greatly appeciated.

I have some bad lower ball joints in my 1996 Galant. I have purchased 2 lower ball joints and 2 outer tie rod ends. Do the upper ball joints have as many problems as the lower ones? My manual shows 4 ball joints on the lower side. I purchased 2 and no one really seems to know about the other 2. Anyone have info on these?

Okay, I hope someone can answer this for me. My brake light switch went bad so I went to my local parts store and picked up a replacement for $40. Got home and removed the old one. Simple so far?! The old switch has 2 connectors mounted to it. The first has 4 posts and second has 3 posts in it. The replacement that they gave me only has a single connector for the 4 post connection. Went I questioned the dealership today they simply stated that I don't need the other connector, as did the parts store. I asked them what it went to and they said that they were not sure. What the **** kind of an answer is that?
Is it possible that the OEM version of the switch does not require the second connector? What does it go to?
Any information would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you,
Brian

1994 Mits. Galant with cruise control

Hey guys and girl's
I just bought a 97 STR Legnum and Ive noticed that on 3/4 of a tank of gas it so far has only got 200km and thats like 35litres of gas, which in almost all cases is to higher consumption? Is it normal for the 2.5 legnums? Can some one please help? Ive had experience with the 97 gdi Galant and that gets almost 500km off that much fuel, I understand mine is going to use more due to engine size but should there be that much of a difference??

Oh and its tiptronic

Another thing is every 2nd or 3rd time i start the car the engine will start but all dash features will turn off? would this be the battery beign to small for a v6? it seems relatively small to me? and when this happens an i move the stick to drive it makes a graunching sound and the abs wont activate properly.

HELP PLEASE

Hey guys, do you know where the Radiator Fan relay/fuse located in my 98 Galant. My driver side radiator fan is brand new and is not working. This is the second fan I have installed.

hi conflicting info for my 98 Galant, one book says 54000 for the cam belt one says 60000 and one know which is correct?

cheers

mike

Ok. so i had a problem with the ignition switch. the key wouldn't come out. i replaced the ignition switch. Right after i changed it ( while it it was still in park) it came out no problem. As soon as i put it into drive and took it for a short ride around the block and parked it the key wouldn't come out again. any help would be appreciated

oil in my 98 galant seems to finish very fast.i have checked for leaks but there's nothing.sometimes the dip stick is dry when i pull it out(if i take maybe about a month or so to check).i also noticed that its smoking(not too much but smoking still).any ideas what the problem could be?

Hi all, anyone got any clues on getting the damn sump off when all the bolts are removed, or do I just hit it with summit, lol ??

Hey guys, my 98 4cyl auto galant feels very sluggish under acceleration. I've cleaned the throttle body completely, bought but haven't installed the fuel filter yet. I know it's not the tranny. The car sounds alot deeper but feels like it's only producing 80hp not the 141hp. I give it full throttle off the line, after 2000rpm it feels like turbo lag (I have no turbo) throughout the entire rev band and feels like something is robbing it of fuel and timing between 2000rpm to 5000rpm. The poor engine feels like it's gonna fall apart if I give it any more power. I'm taking apart the intake manifold on Tuesday to see if there's a blockage. Can it be the injectors need cleaning or replacement. Also my distributor cap is leaking oil could that be the case? I have installed a new fuel filter and a new Walbro 255 lph fuel pump which now the car feels like it has gotten back 30hp. I'm still losing power after 3000rpm and I think it's my distributor cap which is leaking oit. She idles fine so I need your help... Thanks

Hello everyone, I have a 1994 galant S. The car recently through a code 43. I assumed it would be the EGR valve since the valve was really stiff to move back and forth. So I replaced it, reset the battery, did the drive cycle, and then the code came back. I see that the EGR system is made of the EVAP control solenoid, EGR solenoid, EGR temp sensor. I don't want to throw each of those parts at it, without knowing which one is truly bad. Could someone point me in the right direction with how to check the EVAP control solenoid, EGR solenoid etc?

HELLO I JUST PURCHASED THIS GALANT IT IS A 1996 ES 2.4. THE CAR HAS THE ORGINAL KEY BUT WHEN I PUT THE KEY IN THE CYLINDER TO START IT IT DOES NOTHING BUT LIGHT UP THE CLUSTER AND ALL ELECTRONICS IF I SHUT IT ON AND OFF A FEW TIMES THEN IT WILL START WHAT CAN IT BE. THANKS

I WAS WONDERING I AM GONNA DO MY OIL CHANGE ON THIS CAR I JUST GOT IT. ITS A 1996 GALANT ES 2.4 NOW IT KNOCKS WHEN I START IT AND THEN IT GOES AWAY AFTER IT WARMS UP.

I bought a '98 a few months ago and have been running it w/o any problems. The other night bought gas at the same place I always buy it, and yes I buy the cheapest, and within 5 minutes had rough idle, loss of power and have used 1/2 of the tank within 3 days having gone about 20 miles. I thought at first fuel injector cleaner, bought some, followed directions, put in tank. Not much of a change. My son bought some dry gas and put it in, still not much of a change. So now I am thinking fuel filter, but where is it ?? Owners manual doesn't seem to tell. The former owner had all paperwork, but never could see where the filter might have been changed. This vehicle has 133k on it. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello all...I'd like to know the type of oil that is best for my GDI 1998. Its clocked 100,000 k. I hear some say synthetic and others saying conventional for the same reason - age. I also know that a thicker oil is best for this age car, but I just put in 20-50 havoline conventional and its making a lot a noise as if its too thin???!!!

Thanks

Duane

I have a 94 Galant GS 4G64 DOHC, my battery died the other day, I got it jumped, and took the alternator in and tested it. If failed, I replaced the battery and the alternator, since the battery was kinda old. Now it runs fine, but when you shut it off, the battery drains. I have some sort of electrical problem and I have no idea where its coming from.

I have good voltage when the car is running both at the battery and from the alternator, but when you shut it off and put a voltmeter on the terminals, the voltage drops. It killed a new battery in about 5.5 hours.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm good with electronics, I just need a place to start looking since I'm new to these cars.

Thanks

Jeff

hello i just purchased a 1997 galant es and trying the do some maintence, i flushed the transmission fluid out and i went to the auto parts store and read a few atf oils and the castrol was compatible with the diamond sp. is that ok? and if i dont change the filter how may quarts should i put? and should i add conditioner?

Hi I live in New Zealand. I have recently bought 1997 Mitsubishi Galant VRG GDI 1.8 Litre. I bought this in a private sale. For few days it worked well. Every day when I start the vehicle drives fine for some time and then the vibration starts after 3 to 5 KM of driving. Especially when driving uphill and accelerating while driving 40 t0 50 Km speed entire vehicle gets shaking noise.

I have spent all of my savings on this car for buying and fixing repairs (tyres and servicing) I took it to mechanic to for a check he couldn’t figure out what this noise is and asked me bring vehicle later as he was busy. I am not really sure what this problem is please advise me what it could be. I have very little mechanical knowledge.

Hi Guys, I hope you have better car days than me. My faithful Challenger, 3.5L petrol now shows me the orange engine light. I can only rev up to 3000 revs then she starts coughing. The fuel pump sounds ok. I suspect, this has to do with one of the sensors, but have no idea where to start. If somebody has experienced this problem, please help. I know the engine is healthy, but no idea how to correct this fault. I am not driving the car right now. Fortunately it's summer and my new Suzuki Boulevard M-50 is my latest mode of transport.

Any help is much appreciated.


Roy

I have a 95 Mitsubishi Galant that I use for work.

It has been having issues with it stumbling while I accelerate for a little while now. But now it will barely accelerate at all.

The plugs, wires and air filter are 2 months old, the cap and rotor I replaced yesterday, along with the fuel filter.

I checked the wires for arcing, but saw no signs.

The check engine light comes on, but not when this issue is present. For the last 4 days the check engine light has been off, but the issue has gotten worse.

I can hear the fuel pump working before I turn the key to start the car.

Tried some commercial Injector cleaner on a whim, nothing.

Checked the Mass Airflow sensor, it looks clean to me.

The car idles fine, 90% of the time. Sometimes it drops about 400RPM and sputters but jumps right back to about a 1000Rpm idle.

It used to be that it would simply stumble at lower RPM's but when I got it above 2k it would smooth out and accelerate just fine. But now, I can barely drive the thing.

One important detail: When the engine is cool, the problem is not so pronounced. When it gets up to normal operating temperatures, the issue is severe. We thought this might be an issue with the Catalytic converter, but when we disconnect the exhaust it does the same thing.

I am going to check the TPS, Fuel Pressure regulator and the ignition coil.

Any suggestions on what I should check next?

could you help me?
i have mitsubishi galant 1997 VRG, 1.8 GDI japanies.
i am interesting where can i buy timing belt and part number?
as i know when changing the timing belt also have to be change other small one.

I'm a noob from USA with very little knowledge about cars. Please advise what to do to fix this problem.

The story: Bought a 1997 Galant whose transmission "kind of" went out on the 3rd day after purchase. I say "kind of" because it works, but only up to the 3rd gear, reaching a top speed of 25 MPH. Once it hits 25, I have to slow down, wait for the (lower) gear to engage again, and then accelerate. However, if the car has been running a while, and it is going downhill, and the speed reaches 30 MPH or beyond, the transmission tries to slow the car down by downshifting. This results in a jerk, and the gear engages at this point, allowing me to accelerate again. If this downshift/jerk occurs 3-4 times, the 4th gear engages, and the car functions fine up to the 4th gear, till the engine's turned off.

Details about the car:
1997 Mitsubishi Galant ES/LS, Engine: 2.4L I4 MPI/SMPI, Transmission: Auto

Since I live in a city, and can get by with a top speed of 25 MPH, this is how I've been operating the vehicle for about 9 months now. Couple of mechanics listened to my story and told me I have to change the transmission. Can't afford that.

Is there some other solution to this problem? I have no idea where to look or what to do. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

P.S.: If replacing the transmission is the only solution, what other models' transmission are compatible with a 97 Galant Auto Trans?

Hello, I have noticed my car got a replacement tranny with the model number W5M33-2-MMZL and I need to know if its the correct final drive gear for my 1998 GSX Eclipse cause I belive that my cars center diff is going to blow.



Please help me!



Thanks

Kendel

Hey, how many quarts will I need to flush my 98 Galant tranny. I cant find the right atf here in Zambia so i ordered 10 quarts from USA. Will that be enuf. Advice needed here plz.

Hello, I have a 1998 Galant ES and I just noticed a few days ago that the air circulation vent stopped working. Usually, when I'd press the button, you could hear the vent open and close, but now it doesn't do a thing. My first thought was maybe a blown fuse, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is and how I can fix it?

I need help

Recap: 98 galant alternator went bad and I had it replaced. At the time it was replaced it was recommended that I get the belt changed also because it looked worn. I got the belt replaced 2 weeks later. AT start up I get this loud sqeeching sound that last like 15-20 secs. In cold it last about 30-45. I took it back and they said because the belt was new they needed to adjust it. They did that and sprayed it with something it the noise stopped for a day. I took it back and they put anothee belt it the noise stopped for about 2 days. It only does it at start up and now it does it when I turn on the air conditioner. I took it back to day and was told I needed a power steering pumb to correct the problem. Would me needing a PSP make that sqeeching noise at start up only. I have had no problems with steering or anything like that. After the car is driven for about 20 minutes no noise at all even if I turn on the air. what could it be?

Hello everyone,
I brought my car to pep boys for wheel alignment the other day and they broke my rear right canber bolt and they said it was too rusty and its not their fault. They said that they will replace it with new one. The next day they told me that they cannot pull the bolt out from the bushing and they have to cut the bolt with torch and I will need a new control arm.
Well I checked the auto parts web saits and I could not find a control arm with ball joint at the end like the one on my car. I think that the part with ball joint on one side and bushing and camber bolt on the other is not called control arm, cuz I can see one more part next to the other one that is the lower control arm and on top of the strut is the upper.
So after all this writing can anyone help me with the name of that part please???
Thanks...

hello, can you pls help me, ive been searching for Philippine made or asian or japanese made galant 97 V6 2.0 users manual and factory service manual download for free. thank you..

I have a metallic screech from my air conditioner area that is not the belt and the compressor is new. Only when AC is on.
Anyone ever have problems with the tensioner pulley, it is the only thing I can think that can be causing this. I took it off and it spins freely but I have no way of checking it with tension on it.
Help much appreciated

i recently bought a manual transmission for my 6a12 engine. the manual transmission number is f5m312zpvf but i did not get any slave cylinder with it now i am having trouble locating one. can any one help me or give me a part number for a clutch slave cylinder that can work on it

dear all

please help me!
i am interesting what kind of oil should be use in gear box for Mitsubishi galant VRG 1.8GDI 1997 year. in my country novebody knows sombody say Q8, others castrol and i could not trust.

thanks in advance