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So I've been trying to install this transmission for about 4 days now and I'm at a loss. Replaced the rear main seal on my 2003 galant es automatic 2.4l 4cyl. Every time the transmission is finally in proper position and we start to close the gap between the bellhousing and the motor, the motor binds up and we can't turn the crankshaft from the other side to put back the torque converter even though the bolts are perfectly in position.
Really hoping I can find an explanation or some tips here. I've never had this much trouble getting a transmission back in. Apparently something is binding up on the flywheel, but I can't figure out what. I just need to put this car back together so I can sell it and have it out of my life.
Hi. My car is suffering from misfiring when I put my foot down under load and yesterday it could hardly get up the hill outside my house! I have checked the coils and spark plug leads and all seem OK but I can't seem to get any spark plug sockets down the bore to the plug, there seems to be lip about 20-30 mm down and the 3 sockets I have tried won't go past this. Is this normal? or is there a special tool for spark plug removal?
I do not claim to be a master mechanic by any means. I've done body work for years and dabbled in engine work (even that is being generous).
My fiancee's 2001 Galant has the fusible link connector but it is so badly corroded, I am unable to figure out what 5 cables go where as they've all come disconnected. There are 2 white cables, 2 white cables with a red stripe and the main positive terminal cable.
I have searched for days to try and figure this out (as I'm scared of messing up electric in cars) but cannot find anything anywhere to make a definitive call.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE PUT THIS IN THE SIMPLEST TERMS POSSIBLE? I understand that this is a "noob" question and should be very straight forward. But this car is on it's last leg and certainly doesn't need my lack of knowledge to make it worse.
Its been awhile since i've posted anything here.. but i've been having problems with my 2001 Mitsubishi Galant Driver Door Power Window and I was hoping someone could help me diagnose it..
Here's my problem:
All other windows are operating fine..
The window goes down about 2-3 inches then stops.. as it lowers it sounds like its binding a bit.. when its down, I can rock the window back and forth (side to side) a little bit, but can't force it down any lower. even if I apply pressure while its going down, it won't go any further down. it will go back up using the switch on the door, also. If i lower and raise it a couple of times it stops moving altogether. then after a few minutes I'll be able to get it to move again.. but never more than the 2 or 3 inches of travel.
I took the door panel off and there's really no way of seeing whats going on inside. I feel around inside the door and I think the motor heats up a little when activated. it still sounds like its binding..
I don't want to take the unit out until I have at the replacement part available..
Partsgeek.com has the left side motor only for $40.00, and the motor & regulator assembly for $56.00, so its probably worth it to buy the regulator & motor assembly.
I am replacing the rear lower control arm bar on my galant es 2002. One of the bolts is seized up in the bushing real bad. I have to cut it off to get the old part out so I can replace it. I looked everywhere and have searched for the specs on that particular bolt so I can try to find a match at the hardware store or wherever. Can anyone help point me in the right direction on where i can find this info. Thanks
hey guys, i have the problem of the heater valve motor clicking (again), and it's driving me crazy. i got the car used and it used to only click while the A/C control was set to the absolute coldest setting. then i got a new motor and it worked without clicking for less than a year, and now the new one is clicking as well....except worse....it does it in every single position, regardless of whether the fan is blowing or not.
so rather than spending another $75+ for another motor that will likely end up doing the same thing, i want to just wire in an on/off switch inline with the power cable going to the motor so i can just kill power when i'm not changing the position of the temp control. only problem is i'm having a hell of a time finding a wiring pinout to see which wire is the power wire going to the motor....any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2003 Galant with the 2.4 L4 motor. My issue is that sometimes, it just wants to die randomly. Idle drops low and it even stalls at times. Other times, it drives fine. No problems. And then there are the times where you give it gas to go, and it bogs down and the whole car jerks. I don't know what to do with it anymore. I have a code for an 02 sensor. I'll double check that though. Any suggestions?
I bought a manual 4g63 NA SOHC 2002 Galant GLS earlier this month, dead cheap with gremlins in the works the PO couldn't be bothered dealing with and just bought another car instead. [attachment=21633:IMG_2015...9_181056.jpg]
First issue seems related to the transponder key. Rarely, once in a while it starts but once you turn the key from Start to On it just dies. Starts fine, just doesn't stay running, Exactly the same as using a cut spare bare metal key with no transponder chip. Pull the key out, go for a walk or have a cuppa and come back and it starts and runs perfectly.
I can live with a wonky transponder if that is all that goes with that issue.
The other issue is more of a problem.
Usually it starts and runs with no issues, run around town and it's fine. but every now and again the check engine light comes on and it drops into limp home mode, revving slowly and laggily like a slow old diesel tractor, wont go over 3K revs, total gutless lack of power. Then sometimes it just shuts down. Turn the key off and on again and the CEL goes out and it drives along again, until the CEL comes on and it starts limping again.
and sometimes it just won't start again after shutting down.
I have an OBD2 scanner en route, more details to come.
When I know what codes to ask about, I'm going to be chasing your brains and trying to pick them clean of any and all details I can get you fellas to cough up I've already searched the forums for a combination of 4G63 SOHC, Galant, 2002, Limp Home, Check Engine Light... etc. But without the codes, it's a scattershot search.
I pulled off my Intake manifold yesterday and was inspecting the IACV when this little spring loaded mechanism fell out. I found where it went back in but there was no screw that went with it. It is obvious that it is an adjustable piece but I don't know what it could adjust as the idle adjusting screw is at the top of the throttle body. Could this be the cause of my various idle problems (rough/low idle, engine dies due to low idle, rapid fluctuation of idle on coast down, rpm jump to 3000 and hold on cold start, etc...)?
Hi guys as above the abs light is always on where do i start to look to get this sorted are there sensors on all the wheels a common thing? also the front discs are pretty scored so will be changing those soon although unsure if there the 256 or 276mm whe i ran the auto parts up to order theres two types
aloha everyone, have a 2003 galant that needed to have heater hoses replaced after one sprung a leak. turns out after a lot of head scratching that the heater core is clogged up. no amount of flushing seems to break it up. living in hawaii there is not a lot of need for a heater so i want to just bypass the heater.
i am going to run a hose from inlet ( block ) to outlet ( thermostst housing ). this will bypass heater and still allow coolant to cycle. my question is do i leave the three warmer hoses attached? these are smaller dia hoses that run from thermostat housing to throttle body, block to throttlebody and throttle body to block.
i'm not sure which warmer hose from housing to body is inlet or outlet. is there a way to check? if i bypass the warmer hoses how will it affect starting, idle etc.
any help or links to resources would be really helpful. thanks in advance.
My Mitsubishi Galant 2.4 4G64 +LPG 99', 150K miles has cold start problem. It usually happens in mornings and when the air temperature is low. I have to crank the engine several times till the car starts running. When i crank longer time it seems to not be starting at all, so 3-6 shorter cranks usually is better. And when the car starts, until it hasnt warmed, pushing accelerator pedal makes the engine want to stop, the rpm drops and engine dies if i dont let the pedal off. And when car starts, smoke like blueish comes out of exhaust, smells like burned fuel and after that no smoke at all. Car doesnt consume any extra oil Here is what i have done: -Spark plugs replaced -Compression checked (Ok) -Temperature sensor changed -Fuel pump pressure checked (Ok) -Disconnected air flow mass sensor, no difference -Checked Throttle positioning sensor (Ok) -Before about 2 months i thought that i have low quality fuel in it, so i filled my tank with premium fuel, yes i thought the problem has gone, it started almost perfect, but it got worse and worse after some time and weather started to get colder too. Now its very bad. And i also replaced check engine light, someone before took it out, cleared it, but after about 100 miles it showed up. - Previous day i put a heater blower in my garage to keep the engine warm, yes this morning it started better. So i think it is something with temperature, not pressure or spark. Car runs great when its warm, no problems at all.
I really hope that everyone can help me with this issue. Will appreciate any help from you guys. Thanks!
Hi all hope this is ok to post the car is a 53 plate 2.5 manual the abs light is on but i want to get this loud clicking noise sorted first as soon as i start the car theres a clicking noise when i rev the engine it gets louder a mate advised me to spray some wd40 on the pullys and that did stop the noise for a short time
im not really mechanically minded so in as simple terms as possible please im in nottingham if anyone is local any help much appreciated
I am in need of a new Engine/oil sump plus gasket for my 2001 Uk model Galant. Its the 2.5 v6 24 valve engine. Can anyone provide this if not suggest who might have one lying around. Also can anyone give me the part number. I am aware that the engines were used in other models but I need the part number to assist.
I have an 03 Galant 2.4l engine and my AC Compressor is shot, 2 mechanics each want $1,000 to replace the part and labor. car had 96k miles and don't even think it is worth that. however i need to keep car running. i am looking to bypass the ac compressor and run a belt for just the power steering. does anyone know what size belt i should be getting ? how long it will take to replace? and what skill level does one need to change this belt?
any help would be great, i do not want the car to go down because of a blown belt.
(No i am not going to be trading in the car just yet, dont have the money for a new car)
I have a much loved, well serviced V6-24 automatic from 2000.
A couple of months ago we were on a long drive (150km). we had lights, windscreen wipers, phone charger & heater blasting. Suddenly the heater went cold & the idle speed when stopped dropped & the car kept trying to stall.
When I went to pull away again, the car shuddered, juddered & failed to pull properly. After a short while the car 'shook itself' & vroom, off we shot like usual.
When the traffic slowed so that the revs dropped to about 2000 rpm it started again while driving.
Stopping at traffic lights, I had to drop it into neutral and pump the throttle while the engine chugged & stuttered
Next day we drove home. No lights, heater or wipers. No problem.
The car was due a big service (cam belt) so in it went, new distributor & thermostat added as part of the service as they were knackered.
Hoped the problem was fixed but no.
If we run with the heater on high, the car started to chug, try to stall & fail to pull away from stops. Turn it off - fine
2002 Mitsubishi Galant heater/AC made clicking sounds when turned, but now does not make this sound (or switch from hot to cold) when turning. Does anyone know what this might be and what I need to do to fix this?
I am trying to get the driver side drive axle out of my Galant but have hit a barrier. The ball joint does not want to separate from the control arm. I took out the pinch bolt and nut and tried to pry it off without any luck. I even tried taking out the control arm the the forward mounting bolt and nut are not budging. I even bought a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight and it broke the tool! I've looked to online sources but can't find any. I have looked at MattsMotorz video on the 2002 Lancer but mine doesn't even come loose when I hit the control arm with a hammer like he does. I'm currently working out of the Hanes manual, which says to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle to get the drive axle out, but I also have a Chilten manual which says the ball joint is an integral part of the control arm. I'm partial to the Hanes, though, because It is more centered around my year and model. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, [attachment=20514:IMG_0883.JPG] [attachment=20506:IMG_0882.JPG] [attachment=20522:IMG_0884.JPG]
Hey I've been searching all of the internet and i simply can't find an Catback exhaust for my european Galant/Legnum. Does anyone on here know what other exhaust might fit. I've heard some say that the Eclipse 3,0 will fit it. Here's a picture to those who don't know what model it is.
My car stalls when accelerating at full gas ( engine temp normal ) and the CEL appears , i then park it somewhere and switch it off .
After 5/10 seconds i restart and it will go on like nothing happened .
I tried to look for the exact moment when this happens and it usually is around 3/4 th gear and 4000 rpm , first engine light on, and then engine stall... If i try to accelerate from start only at half throtle , it will go without any problem .
I felt also something like a "burst" of acceleration , i could go on the motorway at cruise speed with the rev counter at 3000 rpm and the car gives more speed then goes to normal ...( like a hiccup )
Could you all please have a look and tell me if this happened to someone else and how to fix it.
Hello all how are we all better then me I hope. I have looked on these forums and cant find the problem I am having. The car I have is a Mitsubishi gallant 2.4 dohc 4g64. I will go through the list of items I have done so far. I have replaced the head gasket , timing belt, cam sensor, maf meter, o2 sensors, in tank fuel pump, high pressure pump on the side of cylinder head/ fuel filter, spark plugs/ throttle body/ air filter. Think that's it all. I have checked and cleaned the egr valve and solenoid. Have done compression test all was good. Have checked for air leaks have none. Ok now on to the problem im having with this car. after doing the head job car started first click idled fine but when I went to put the throttle down the engine would bog out and nearly die I have tried and thought of everything and it still kept on doing it and after a while it was running and just cut out. now it wont start at all it just cranks over and tries to start but its only firing on I think 3 cylinders maybe 2. so ive pulled the plugs out heaps of times and always they are black with soot which tells me its running to rich but before all this it seemed fuel starved. IM at a total loss as to why it wont start and sooty plugs timing ive checked and double check has full compression over all cylinders no vac leaks. If anyone out there has any ideas or can help I would much greatfully appreciate it
2000 Galant ES I4 2.4L SOHC ~190,000mi So I've had my Galant for about two or three years now. It always had a slightly rough idle. For the past few months, however, its idle problem has become a lot worse. Upon cold starting the car, the idle jumps to ~3,000rpm and will stay there indefinitely. When I put it into gear and let off the pedal, the car starts going at a good pace. When coming to a stop the car starts surging and jumping forward in the 1,000 to 1,500rpm range and it takes a considerable amount of brake to prevent the car from rolling forward. The problem will calm down after around a half hour of driving or so. Within the past few weeks, I have heard this clicking or knocking from the engine. I would check the oil (when engine is cold) and the dip stick would be dead dry even though I changed the oil a month ago and it usually doesn't burn oil this quick. However when I check it with the engine hot there is oil up and down the dipstick. I went to the gas station and put a quart of 5w-30 in. I noticed that when I opened the oil cap, white smoke came out, but when I put the oil in the clicking stopped and the engine did perform noticeably better. Fast forward to last Saturday and the knocking came back. As I pulled up to my destination, the idle dropped to an unsustainable rpm and died. I managed to coast up to a parking spot. When I was leaving a couple of hours later, I would have to put the car in neutral and rev the engine just to keep it living. I noticed that this time in addition to the knocking, there was also a sound like a pulley was coming off and the engine didn't seem to want to go past 3,000rpm and wouldn't shift to the next gear. The car stalled frequently and whenever I would start it each time the car would turn over slower and slower. The car eventually died in the middle of a busy intersection and would not turn at all until I took off the battery cables for ten minutes then put them back on. The car started but almost immediately died. I had to tow it to a mechanic. He said something came loose within the engine but because they don't do engines he couldn't tell me what. The car is at my house now and I've started looking at it. It starts and sounds like it could drive without much problem but the knocking is still there.
Some info that might or might not be relevant but has also been going on with the car: 1. Always had a squeaky accessory belt. It has been replaced a few times and goes away for a little but always comes back. It is actually quite loud and is worse when I put the A/C on especially during winter time. 2. Pulled the spark plugs out a few weeks ago and other than obvious signs of wear (the electrodes are a little white) they were fine. I took them out yesterday and they were completely black. Looked more like carbon than oil but there were a few obvious drops of oil. I replaced them and the knocking is still there. 3. Replaced water pump after the bolts came loose and dislodged the belt. That was my fault I over torqued two of the bolts putting it back together after a crank position sensor repair last summer. 4. Only code I've ever pulled off the car (besides the crank sensor which I've fixed) is P0403 EGR system. It is an intermittent code that will pop up and go away every month or so. Although these last few months I haven't been getting any codes at all. 5. Right after the water pump fix the car wouldn't start due to the battery. I put water in the holes in the battery and the car started right up. I've had to do this three more times but after that the car would start with no problem (other than the idle). I looked at the battery though and the positive terminal is White with corrosion. I cleaned a little bit of it up, but there is still some. Also I've had to repair the negative terminal twice by putting one of those NAPA terminals on there. Lately I've noticed that the insulation to the cable near the terminal is a bit warped. Also the battery trey has has started to turn white as well. I've tried to get the cables replaced but the dealership has given me mixed answers on if they can be. Sorry this is a lot but it's a problem that has been going on for a while and I didn't want to leave anything out. Also I apologize for my ignorance if any of this info seams irrelevant. I've only been working on cars since I got this thing two or three years ago. Thanks in advance for all replies and suggestions. Andru
I have a 2003 Galant ES 4 cylinder. I have been having misfire codes on my car for a while. Every time I checked a part, the code would jump and it has finally been stuck on p0304 for the past couple of months. I have changed the spark plugs, wires, coils, the fuel injector on cylinder 4 and it is still giving the same code p0304. The engine runs fine, but does hesitate sometimes and wont pass emissions with the code on there.
I have a 2000 mitsubishi galant es and its coding 41 42 43 44 after previous owners replaced the trasmission. They said the previous transmission had a screw on filter and they put a trasmission without the filter in it and now im trying to figure out how to fix it so it will stop getting stuck in 3rd
I have a 2000 mitsubishi galant es 2.4L automatic. It has the transsmission with the screw on filter can i put a transmission without the filter from the same year and model in the car and if so do i have to program the tranny to the main computer
Hello, first time posting. I have a 2002 Mitsubishi galant with the 3.0 v-6 that will not start, but cranks. I believe its a ign problem because it wont start when using starting fluid. I checked to see if there was spark with the spark plug grounded, and there was. Next i used a adjustable spark tester to test for weak spark, and i found that it was a weak spark. However i do have the pdf workshop manual that im using to check ign circuit, but the 2001 is different from 2002 i think, does anybody a 2002 ign diagram?
Hello, my name is Max, I'm from Russia. I have a car mitsubsihi galant 8 USA (EA3A / 4G64). This car have embossed vin number on any panels? How do I find location it? Stickers have become worthless, and is likely to continue me refuse to register my car. Sorry for my english
I have an 2001 Galant that keeps over heating after only about 5 miles. I had it towed to my Mechanic who told me that one of the freeze plugs had rusted out and was leaking coolant.
Here are my questions: 1. He said that to replace the freeze plug, he would need to pull the entire engine to get to it. Q:Is that true?
2. I tested it a little myself, I filled up the radiator with coolant and "sort of" found the leak. When the radiator cap is off, there is a steady stream of coolant coming out from somewhere under the front of the engine. When I put the radiator cap back on, it slows to a slow trickle. It is a very steady stream with the cap off. Q:Would the radiator cap being on/off have that big of an affect on a rusted freeze plug?
Anyway, I went to the dealer to buy one but they dont even carry it. In fact, The parts guy couldnt even pull a part number up for it. I took apart the connector and tried just looking for the terminal inside at some stores so i could put it all back together and re-use it. No luck so far. I found some similar ones made for ford but too big to fit back into connector. http://imgur.com/wz8wB5M
I have a 2000 galant. The F4a42 automatic transmission won't shift into any gear. It acts as if it is going into limp mode and will only move forward . Or reverse when at really high revs. I have rebuilt all the cluth disc and plates. It also had a couple stuck valves in the valve body. Put new fluid in it and still nothing. How do i test the solenoid? Or what else sshould i be checking.
I'm sitting in my car, freezing, broke down again. Somebody please help. If I start it and warm it up, my electronics will start to fade and it will usually die before I leave. If I don't warm it up, but just get in it and go, my lights will start fading, if I have turned my stereo on, it will flicker. I will have an ES light come on on the dash. My gauges will start bouncing to zeros and back. Eventually they just stay on zero. And then my car either dies, Or at lurches back to life. It will literally jerk sometimes and all of the sudden my lights are bright and all of my electronics work fine. Otherwise my acceleration stops working and I start slowing down. I can kind of use the gas, but it will not shift and it doesn't really accelerate. And then it Will just die. If I jump start it after this, it will run for a few miles before doing the same thing. If I plug it in and let the battery charge for 12 hours or so, I won't have any issues for a few days. I am at a loss. Somebody please help
I have noticed that on oil stick my oil isn't showing up, I've added roughly a liter a day and still seems like it's burning the oil
About 3 months ago noticed oil light come on, I checked oil level and it was ok. About one month ago the oil light was almost always on even when I reved the engine, after started hearing a knocking sound. Checked oil level looked ok, the knocking sound continued for 2-3weeks when I rechecked oil level to see almost empty.
How can I be sure I'm burning oil and if so whats the damage?
Hi guys . . . I just bought a 99 galant and I need help. The wire loom for the downstream O2 sensor has another wire coming out of it which leads to a white plastic connector and trails off in a wire that just hangs there. Does anyone out there have any idea where this is supposed to go so I can hook it back up again? I can't post a picture right now due to way too much snow here on the east coast. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Ok have a new problem in my 1999 galant 2.4 4g64. I have new pump in the fuel tank I installed another high pressure pump on the side of the engine block but the car is still fuel starved do I need to bleed the system from air as when I undo the top injector line it seams to be under a lot of air pressure no fuel coming out just air. When I try to start the car it just stumbles it wants to go but it won't. Is there something else I'm missing that could be the problem. Please help before I just set light to it I'm at my wits end. I
I am having an issue with the heat in a 2002 Galant. It seems that the blend door sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. I don't drive the car very often and those that do aren't very good at paying close enough attention to describe the issue in great detail, so I'll give this my best shot.
Let me start by saying that the heat in this car, when working, is extremely warm. I can't imagine using it at its maximum setting even in the coldest weather. It was in the low 50's this morning and the heat dial was set at about midway (the white area of the dial). As the car warmed up, it was getting too warm, so I turned the dial towards the cool area (blue) and heard the blender door groan as it repositioned itself. I guess I went too far and it started to get cold in the car so I turned the dial back towards warm, but didn't hear any groans or feel any increase in temperature. For the next 15 minutes, I kept turning the dial back and forth between hot and cold but never heard the groan nor felt any increase in temperature.
I can say that from my limited past experience, I have sometimes heard the door groan and sometimes not, but even when I didn't hear it groan, the temperature was almost always adjustable. There are just these rare occurrences when the door doesn’t seem to move from the cold position. It seems as if it only gets stuck in the cold position because in my experience, the only time I seem to have a problem is when I turn the dial from very cold towards hot to heat the car, but never when trying to cool the car down. In the past I have heard the groan as I adjusted the dial from cold to hot, so that is what tells me it only gets stuck in the cold position, and right now it appears to be stuck. In other words, I can always turn the heat down, groan or no groan, but there are times (like now) when I can't adjust the temperature from very cold to warm. No groan, no temp increase = stuck door, right?
I am assuming that at some point it will free itself and allow heat into the vehicle, since this seems to be the pattern with this problem.
OK, so how do I troubleshoot this? Is the blend door buried deep within the dash or it is fairly accessible such that I can try to move it manually to free it up or lubricate it? Could it be an intermittent vacuum issue, and if so I would I determine that?
Hello from Estonia, hope you understand my bad english. Im having some problems with my 1999 Galant´s engine (2.5V6, 24V, 120KW, 6A13). Feels like some cylinder stops working at random times, any rpm, power drops. Engine light wont come on. I tryed to spray water on spark plug wires to see maybe it sparks over somewhere, but nothing was seen. Engine oil smells a bit like gasoline (~5000km driven with this oil).
Maybe here is someone who can see problem by looking at evoscan log files: [url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/liddosk0yfjkh9h/AACVqc6xMF_eg0gVDtdMkoLta?dl=0[/url]
Looks like "MAT" (manifold air temp) sensor is -40degree all the time, is that normal? Does this sensor even exist on this engine? Outside air temp was between -1 to +3 degree celsius when logs were taken.
I have a 99 Galant es 2.4 that about 3 weeks ago started spitting and spuddering. I had the engine code ran and it came back as a misfire. I've also noticed that at an idle it seems to not have much power. The headlights and dashlights dim and the heat blows alot less strong. Upon giving it gas the lights brighten and the heat comes back. If I drive like a granny it doesn't misfire too bad, it still does but its hardly noticable. If I speed up even moderately it misfires horribly. All four sparks plugs have been changed within the past few days and the coils were changed yesterday. I've checked for vaccum leaks and didn't see any. The battery is newer, not brand new but its less then 6 months old. Same with the spark plug wires. It also seems to be using more gas then usual. I'm not an expert but I have trouble believing it is fuel related because the car starts fine and runs fine for about ten miles and then starts acting up. I have a feeling that if it wasn't getting enough gas it would start having the problem instantly. Any help would be great. Thanks
My daughters check engine light came on the other day. So she had a local mechanic check it out. He told her that the code P0340 came up and said that its the Camshaft Position Sensor. So I told her I can take care of that for her. My question to all is that do you see a problem with ordering it on ebay for $20 when Autozone wants $60 and Advance wants about $65. Rockauto $37 I've seen them even as low as $13 on ebay. Whats funny is that the check engine light has gone away now.
Well it started last month. I had my check engine came one, so I thought to myself Okay. Got it looked at it was a random miss-fire So I replaced the spark plugs wires to the cylinders and both coils. Problem had not resolved itself. Though now my OBD2 scanner had said the camshaft position sensor had gone bad so we replaced that and voila no more check engine light but now the car still isn't running right. The car is loosing power underload and while I'm going up hills. The tachometer is jumping around instead of smoothly going and the car just doesn't accelerate right at all.
I'm almost thinking its either the mass airflow sensor or the throttle position sensor but I'm not too sure which it could be does anyone have any idea what could be the culprit besides these two sensors or do you believe that I am on the right track.
My issue does not seem to be going away. And its really starting to perplex me. I have an 2001 galant 4 cylinder. Has always run great minus the past 9 months. Ive been trying to diagnose things as they come and fix them but Im just not getting anywhere with it. Im getting a clunking while accelerating. It happens more often when it is warmer about 65-70 degrees and higher. It went away for the most part during the past winter So I thought I had fixed the issue.
It will be pretty quiet for days and then other days it will sound like a machine gun fire. It about 175-200 bpm approximate. Definitely sounds from the front or under front seat (but who knows). Occurs when turning or driving straight. Sound lets up when slightly taking foot off gas pedal to ease acceleration.
4 cylinder es model.
Recently done maintenance in past 8 months :
New struts, new pads and rotors front and back, replaced all 4 engine mounts, new starter, new alternator, new plugs and wires, Trans drain and fill about 4 quarts, new tires, new oil pan, new exhaust from first converter up to and including second catalytic converter, rear sway bar links and passenger front inner (i think) tie rod. I just changed the driver side front cv axle as well just to check it out and no difference. The old part looked really good still and boots on both axles are still in great shape. So its either going to be something I overlook and think still looks good but may not be or its something out of my league.