This ones in russian
tommy sport
The following are all in german
nippon tuning
Select mitsubishi and go to 3 and 4 page
importspeed
Standard Mitsubishi bodyparts
schubbis
For facelifted carisma(2000-)
giacuzzo

If you know of any other sites please add

Hello.Ok Iv had my Carisma 1.6 up for sale on the usuall web sites for a few weeks now with no interest.The obvious reason is that my two front CV joints need doing.So I think I might go ahead and try the repair myself.Im not sure wether to buy a set of just the NEW CV joints

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

or get a complete drive shaft

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...atchlink:top:en

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...atchlink:top:en

What do you think would be the best way for me to go.Bear in mind Iv never even attempted anything remotely as difficult as this?Any help on the actual repair is very welcome,pics would be even better.Thanks

2001.1.8GDI My first post on here!
Cars done 60,000m and label under bonnet says change iradium sparkplugs at 90,000km ,so off comes the plastic engine cover and ........ I'm already stuck! Where the hell are they?
Now I'm presuming the four strange contraptions down the center of the engine have something to do with the GDI system and have plugs under them but how do I go about removing them?
Cheers for any replies

Hi there...

Can any one tell me, how many fuel/o2 sensors my mitsubishi carisma 2002 1,9 Di-D hatcback has.
I can see there is one on the air intake, i havent seen any others, so plzz help if you know.

and can any one tell my if this car has a OBD II system, or what system it has.

Anyway i´m am new here this is my first post.

thanks far all the good info on this forum.

Hi

I own a 03 Carisma DID with F9Q1 Renault engine. I have the car about 12months and noticed the pipework surrounding flapbox and egr valve on the intake/exhaust manifold were wet with oil.
I removed plastic and rubber hosing working back towards the intercooler fan and these were also wet with oil residue. The inside of the manifold was also quite dirty with a layer of greasy oily build up. I cleaned this up a while ago but I noticed the oil weep again and I have covered about 5K miles. Car was serviced recently.
I have uploaded a scan of some pictures to help explain myself. sorry if its not that clear.
Is this normal and what are the possible causes?

Thanks for any help

Hi all!

I have a Carisma -99 Gdi 1.8 that has 170 000 km as now (i purchased it second hand not that long ago).
I was thinking to change oil, timing belt, spanner and idler since i dont know for sure the history of the car; but i was wondering if anybody knew what kind of "Service" mitsubishi dealers usually do at 180 000 km ...

Thanks in advance

Hello All,

My 2002 Carisma DID will not start. I tried searching but there is not much info. on Diesels.

This was in an intermittent problem that had happened before but the car would start when the electrical connection going to the
solonoid (fuel valve) on the diesel pump was shook (or so I thought). It now refuses to start.
The solonoid on the fuel pump was making a buzzing noise and I observed that the voltage going to it was low (it was not turning on fully).
I wired up the solonoid directly to the battery (via a resistor as 12 volts is too much) in order to hold it on (not buzzing). The pump still did not pump
fuel as observed by taking off the high pressure pipe going to the common rail pipe.
Taking out the solonoid I noticed (by blowing into it) that the valve (solonoid) passes fuel when the power is NOT connected to it? Seems strange.
I disconnected the supply and now the pump appears to be pumping OK (by observing fuel coming from the disconnected high pressure
pipe going to the common rail). I have taken out an injector to observe fuel being squirted from it. I have not actually got the injector connected
yet as I need to obtain a spare (will bend it) high pressure fuel pipe from the breakers yard to connected the injector where I can see it
(dangerous I believe but caution will be used).
Before disconnecting the injector I attempted to observe electical pulses going to the injector by putting a 6 amp ac clamp meter on one of
the injector leads but it did not show any pulses on the needle as I turned the engine. (The engine was making the meter vibrate alot so I could
not see it clearly and I have no one to turn the engine while I hold the meter above engine). I do not know if this meter is capable of showing these
pulses anyways.

Added later:
The engine light has now started to come back on (few seconds after going out) when I am just about to start turning the engine.
It does not blink when turning engine but stays on.

There is a sensor on the common rail pipe. Is this a pressure sensor and how might I test it. Has anyone got any data etc. Is it relevant?
Would it be an immobalizer problem and is it possible to disable the immobalizer as I do not require it. Would rather have a hidden
(more easy to diagnose if problem occures) switch under dash for to prevent theft.
I have tried two different keys to start the car.



Thanks for any pointers. I am not a professional mechanic (you would never have guessed!!!!). Please feel free to ask me any questons.

EDIT:

The above ravings are not accurate. The 'solenoid' or 'valve' mentioned above is in fact the pressure control on the pump and not an on/off valve as suggested by myself.

I will have to try and obtain a MUT II reader. I am trying to work blind without it. Cannot get evoscan to read or work with this car.
Found workshop manual for FQ9 Engine.



JC

Hi all,

Carisma -00 Gdi

I have a lame problem with my car: Upper beams + Headlight washers not working
The weird thing is that the lower beam and the position lamps are working
I've already changed the blinkers/light switch (the thing on the left of the steering wheel); checked the fuses, and the relays that i found in the box under the hood, and on the bottom-left of the drivers side (Car is EU version - left driving) and everything looks Ok.
Oh yes, the blue indicator on the dashboard doesnt turn on either.


Are there other relays i dont know about, does anybody have any hints?

I thank you a lot in advance for the help!

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone can help me with this - my Carisma came without a manual.

The right-sided side-light has stopped working - the headlight & main beam are still working fine, and changing the bulb hasn't helped. My guess is that it's a fuse, but I haven't been able to find the fusebox.

Anyone know where it is? Any more suggestions?

Thanks

Am I right in thinking that ABS is an optional feature on the 1.6GL?

And if so, apart from the lack of a dashboard warning light (which of course may not be working), how can you tell if a particular vehicle is fitted with ABS?

Thanks

Is theoil Mobil 1 New life 0w40 ok to use with Carisma 1.8 GDI? The manual from 99 says its ok to use from 15w to 5w40, but we must admit the manual aint that recent...

Anybody have idea if its ok?

Danke!

Hi all!

Way back I asked for help regarding idle problems/engine failure on my 4G93 engine ( http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t39802-pi...-body-issue.htm ).

I've since solved it - twice!

The second time I made this "how-to" video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EK1vtuNluA

The symptoms usually start with idle problems on a cold engine, the car is "kangarooing". If you have an automatic transmission the engine might stall at red lights and what not.

The problem then escalates and the erratic reving goes all over the RPM and finally the engine goes to safety mode.

In my case (and a most others I've found on the Internet) this is due to the throttle body not working correctly. The general advise is to replace it for a refurbished one. But why not fix it yourself? It takes about the same time and cost is but a dash of glue!

I've found that the problem is due to an permanent magnet coming loose from the internals of the electromagnet-motor, that drives the shaft inside the throttle body. This is really hard (or straight out impossible) to see if the electromagnet-motor is not taken apart, since the permanent magnet sticks to the shaft even if the glue has come loose.

The first time I fixed this I used 5 minute epoxy resin, alas that can't cope with the temperatures in the long run so the magnet came loose again after "only" 10.000 km (6.200 miles).

Hope this helps!

Oh, it's a far safer bet to contact me via the comments field on YouTube since I don't "hang" here (unless I find a new problem to solve). And there's no point asking me about other issues since this is my first car repair...

With best regards,
/Tobbe in Sweden (where it's time for studded tires - again).

Hi all!

Like so many others my European 2001 GDI (4G93 Engine) went bad in the idle, erratic/uneven when cold until engine was like that even when warm and then loosed all power. Yada, yada, yada.

So I went to Google and spent quite some time coming up with possible solutions, almost all says "clean throttle body".

Away it went (how to here, from this manual):




And sure thing, it was coated in carbon:




Also put the vacuum cleaner to good use in the "inlet manifold", before:




After:




Cleaned the throttle body up and put it back in the car, but still as bad as before.


So what to do next? Found these step-by-step instructions and started from the top. Removed and cleaned the "idle control valve" on top of the throttle body:

Had some problems removing the block connector, the springs need to be moved as per the arrows. Any body have an easy way of doing this?




Sensor removed and cleaned:







When setting the idle, by turning this sensor, which way is which? I've tried both extremes and dead center but there are other issues with the car at the moment.




When I turn the ignition on, the butterfly in the throttle body will move giving ticking sounds, that stops and the engine problem light starts flasing. When turning ignition off the electric engine on the throttle body will "whine" as if trying to move beyound it's limits until the relay cut's the power.

Video of this, picture is dashboard and sound is from the throttle body area.


Is my sensor shot?
Should I put it in 180° the other way and "pre-wind" the spring in the sensor? I'll try that today.
I guess the electric engine is OK since it moves the butterfly (but the faulty? sensor don't give the correct feedback).


The next item in the instructions is the oxygen sensor. Would that be what the manual refers to as the "air volume meter"?




Before I had time to Google this issue my dad (which used to know cars until they got all electrical) opened the electronics box for this sensor:




It's not just the tabs, there are also glue on the lid. Don't do this. All components look ok, nothing burnt or exploded (I've seen the inside of shot electronics quite a few times).


How-ever, inside the box there is a shield over the electronics (to help avoid static destroying the electronics) and that shield has some residue-build up on the inside. Also an issue? Did burning electronics give the residue?




Would appreciate all the help I can get here. If I solve this issue I promise to use my photos and create a guide to help others. I've done guides previously and this sort of thing is what the Internet is about, IMHO.

With best regards,
/Tobbe in Sweden

One of my belts is squealing on start up like crazy, apparently the belts OK so before i get a new one i want to try and tighten it, Its doing my nut in, so i want a quick fix, i know i need to tighten the tensioner but i don't what/where it s or how to do it, i can distinguish which pulley is what i.e air con, power steering. Any help would be verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry appreciated cheers!

Ive just bought a 1998 Carisma 1.8 gdi Uk model. It had sat on a drive for 18 months not moving. When i removed the rear drums, the shoes were heavily worn and had partially delaminated, so i ordered and fitted some new shoes. On the drivers side they work perfectly. On the passanger side they work fine with the drum pushed on by hand, but as soon as the drum is clamped onto the hub, either by the wheel or just the nuts on the studs, it jams solid. Ive tried to find where it binds but to no avail. Ive tried the drums on the opposite sides and get the same result. Ive paint marked the inside of the drum to see where it touches, but still cant find the fault. Anyone got any suggestions?

If you own a GDI engine, have you added any more bhp?
ive been looking and looking and looking, but it come to my conclusion that your stuffed if you own one of theese, i mean does an induction system or exhaust do anything? 4-1 headers straight through surely this just wrecks the compression. even on the german carisma sites no ones really gone further than adding an air filter, id rather not spend shed loads of money sticking in a volvo t5 allthough it would be lovely lol. so if anyone could let me know what peformance upgrades they have actully done tht would be great

well, if you want to know ever little detail you can check my intro to the site; My intro
but now This gdi has been sitting here since 07 and i want to get it running. and ideas on what i should do?

Hello everyone,

i'm thinking of buying my first car (used) and i was thinking of getting a mitsubishi carisma 1.9 TD 99. What can you tell me about the car? is it reliable? is it worth it?

thank you

Has anyone changed the Pads and/or Discs on a 2000 'X' Reg Mitsubishi Carisma?

I have conflicting info as to whether you have to have a spinning tool to push the piston back into the caliper or that the pistons can just be pushed back?

Also, if i'm just changing the Pads and Discs and hang the caliper up on something, i do not need to bleed the braking system?

Cheers

Darrel

Can anyone help?

My speedo has stopped working and at the same time my fuel light has come on and my petrol gauge is registering 3/4 full irrespective of how much fuel is in the tank.

All the above happened at the same time. I have checked all the fuses and they are all okay. Someone also recommended that I disconnect the battery for a few hours in the hope that it would reboot the computer but this has made no difference.

Has anyone any ideas?

Thanks

Have looked as per manual but not where it says it is anyone help, thanks

Hi my auto box oil on my 2001 GDI Carisma needs to be changed soon. Have searched all forums anyone know of a proper alternative to Diaqueen ?

Hello guys,

I've got a problem with my Carisma 1.6i 16V (76kW). Fuel efficiency is ok - combined 6.8l/100km. And I can't see any problem with the power of engine.
But always I reset the ECU engine light comes up after a few km...
I have noticed, that it always comes up when i'm driving on 4th gear - 2000rpm after 1-2km.
I have visited my mitsubishi dealer - they didn't find anything. - checked the engine
Do you have any idea?
Thanks

For the last 3 months my car has had problems picking up when attempting to accelerate. It's been to the main dealers and has been on the diagnostics machine. They couldn't find a thing. They suggested changing the fuel filter just in case. No difference. I've disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU. The power loss gets worse when the aircon is switched on. When the accelerator is pressed for a few seconds, the turbo kicks in and it really takes off, but I've never known it be like this before.

Any ideas?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to install a Parrot hands free kit to my Carisma 1.9 DiD (2002). Im looking for some guidance on removing the dash, or if anyone know any good places for me to read/look up.

The hands free kit contain a microphone which is intended to be installed above the rear view mirror. I was going to run the cable around the front windscreen then through the dash to a central control box that comes with the hands free kit. A bunch of wires comes out of the control box and into the back of the radio (using an ISO connector).

I'm in 2 minds as to removing the dash or not. I was considering running the mic cable down the pillar trim and round underneath the edge of the dash in the footwell, and then across to the centre console near the radio, and then hoping that I can squeeze the ISO cable from the side of the footwell to the back of the radio (if possible).

Anyone got any ideas, or suggestions?

Thanks for the help in advance...

Hi all,

My drivers side headlight has condensation build up inside of it. Anyone know how to remove the headlight or does anyone have a guide on how to do this?

I'm guessing that a seal has worn or split but I need to get it out to have a look.

Cheers

Hey guys, spent all morning on my car after a code read on car, now car idles fine, and giving it a slow rev, revs fine ( but only too 4000rpm) my first thought was spark plugs, but since realised they seem to be fine, took car for a code read, but no faults, garage owner suspects maybe a clogged cat, but today ive checked spark plugs, and one is very dirty compared to the other three, so cleaned them, swapped coils around, and checked after a run, and low and behold, a dirty plug again, so now im assuming its a coil pack, but surely engine management would pick that up?, ive done a compression test, and they all fine, could it be a coil pack, or am seeing things?? car just drives so spluttery, any kind of boot it just misses, or sounds like its missing. cheers guys.

Hi, Just wondering if anyone knows or had an issue with ticking, its seems to stop after pressing brakes, but sometimes just by itself? not sure, but thinking maybe abs sensor, just strange, cheers guys

I have a 2000 1.8 GDI Auto and cannot find the fuel fiter any ideas, thanks

Hello,

First of all my apoligies for my poor english.

I have bought a new central dash cabinet the one that goes under the radio,
but i cant seem to fit it without removing the compleet central dashboard and this seems a little hard.
It apears that the centrale dash is glued to the reamaing part of the dashboard.

Does anyone knows how to replace the centrale dash,

Picture:
[attachment=11197:3.jpg]

Greetz Sander

Hello all;
To replace the rear pads on my car (2003 DiD), I know that the pistons have to be rotated back into the caliper body.

Has anyone done this please, as I wanted to know whether both pistons are rotated the same way (like a previous Honda Civic I had) or whether the pistons rotate the opposite ways on each side of the car (like a previous Jaguar X-type I had, which has the same rear brakes as a Ford Mondeo)?

If the latter and someone has tried it, did they manage without a wind-back tool as the tool I have only works in the one direction!

Thanks!

hi there guys will OBD 2 diagnostic ISO scan tool CAN BUS OBD2 ELM327 USB work with a 99 plate 1.8 gdi carisma im in the uk? please help

Hi all,

Changed oil in the car, And i noticed that the level is above the "MAX" thing.
I was wondering if it's dangerous and/or what consequences it could have, And eventually some advice about "fixing" the level, should i just go under and open the thing and let some oil come out.

It's just a little bit above max, nothing dangerous i think.

Okay another thread of problems for me.

my carisma isnt doing very well as of late.


Problem 1)
i replaced the front discs and pads a few months back. but the last month or so im getting a noise from the back brakes when letting off the foot brake and hand brake sounds as if its started to seese up? anyone have this problem? or know what part(s) to oil / greese to stop it? as its very annoying.

Sounds like its sticking on release. this started after the last full service on the car.

Edit: Found its the back drive side brake. not sure on what to actually do other then oiling the spring type parts...

Problem 2)
Timing belt jumping? when changing up gears (from say 3rd to 4th) in low revs the engine seems to 'tink' as if the belt is slipping?. im not sure if it is the timing belt or what, but sounds as if someone is slipping when dropping from high to low revs.
Not really a problem, just wondering if anyone has this problem? i've replaced the P/S belt and got the car booked in for the timing belt to be replaced as its on 97k miles so due it soon.

Any idea's would be helpful. oh and does anyone know where you can get the replacement rubber grommet type things for the front brake caliper housing? (Hold the pad housing onto the caliper)

Hi guys, in my google search for body kits for the carisma i came across this site.

Basically i plan to buy a carisma in the next couple of months, and i'm totally new to cars (i'm 19).

Didn't know anything about computers a year ago but now i know a fair bit as i make them for relatives and friends etc. I'm sure i'll be like that when i get a car.

Body kits for this car are v.limited, i've seen one on that russian site and another on a uk site.

Does anyone know where i would be able to order any others?

Thanks
James

Hey.

Im wondering if anyones had this problem and how you fixed it?

I have a 97 Carisma and the back end of the sunroof's seal is really starting to leak water in. (drive side roof area is soaking when raining).

I tried to seal it up with glass sealant. but found the stuff i ordered didnt set like a rubber that i wanted.

Any advice on a product that will seal this without making the sunroof un-useable.

I was going to silocone the inside of the seal (put sunroof up to \ type setting and seal under the rubber)


But any better idea's will be good as i've never had to do this before.

Thanks.

has any one done or seen a fuel pressure regulator fitted to a carisma? the standar procedure is replace the stock pressure regulator with one which you can adjust to higher pressure, buttt having a quick peek at the 1.8 engine bay i think the fuel system is a little bit more complicated then that...and the the pressure is made and regulated all in the pump on the side of the head...

Hello. im wondering if anyone has any idea whats up with my A/C

I went to halfords and got the £40 topup can with the pressure hose.

My a/c was low so i topped it up to the right level. the next day i rechecked to see if there was any leaks in the system, only to find it at 65psi (very high).

I removed some gas to see if it was over filled, but the presure just went back up to what it was... (65psi)

Any idea's on what could do this?

Thanks.

Hi all

I just bought a Carisma GDI Sport -99 with 16000 miles. I love the car, greatest car i've ever had.

I just have some doubts:

- Sometimes on idle it revs up itself, and the same happens sometimes when running

- Sometimes i hear a light ticking from the engine, once i accellerate it stops ticking


Is this normal? Does anyone have suggestions of what it could be? I'm thinking about using an additive like STP Complete fuel system cleaner to clean the valves... (im suspecting they're the problem.. )


The car works very very very fine and the fuel consumption is very fine too; it has absolutely no problems but.. sometimes you just wonder if "is this normal?"

Thanks in advance for everybody

Hello,
I have R reg mitsubishi carisma GLXI,

Problems began while on motorway, steady about 80mph, car began acting, only slightly at first as if wrong petrol was in car but only on acceleration while in gear.

Pulled onto service station, could rev car while not in gear and showing absolutely no probs at all but when put into gear and car got above 3000 revs it began jerking, accelerating then not etc etc

managed to get it home, day after tried it, at the beginning all was same as day before then all of a sudden everything was fine, showing no problems at all for about 15 mins, I still wasnt convinced so took it on motorway.. accelerated upto bout 70-80, fine for about a min then went back to same probs that had been day before.

clutch and gears feel exactly as they did before, no tightness

another clue to a mitsubishi diagnostic out there is that when usin gears to slow down car at traffic lights etc,, this is obviosly normally a smooth movement as gears slow car down. at the moment what is happening is that it jerks to a halt, nothing smooth about it at all.

When not in gear, car rolls smoothly.

Please help narrow this down for me, wasnt sure what it was before it went ok all of a sudden but am now more baffled that it as gone back to as it was.

Thanks for reading
Paul

I'm looking for a cable that will be able to transfer some info from my car to a laptop(stuff like error codes, rpm...).
In VAG cars there is an OBD || connector that's pretty easy to find suitable cable for it.

I've read in some place that for Carisma it's not that easy, that only special equipment can read such info.

Is that true?
If not, what cable is suitable for me?

Thanks.

Hi folks.

Just bought this 99' Carisma 1.8 GDI Sport.

The display in the center panel in the dash dont work. The guy i bought the car from said its maybe a fuse or something.
But i looked at alle the fuses. In the engine bay and down in the panel at the feets at the drivers seat.
No fuses blown. I checked everyone of them to be sure.
But i cannot find and actually fuse for the display itself. I cant see any logo for it.

What do i do? Are there more fuses hiding somewhere?

I want it to work so i can see outdoor temperature, the clock and so on.

Thank you.

Hi all,

Was thinking about buying an USB OBD2 adapter for my Carisma -99 to check it out sometimes with the laptop.

Does anybody know where the diagnostic port is located at, if the obd2 protocol is fine and, had anybody had experience with these tools?

Thanks in advance

Hi
I have a problem with my '97 Carisma 1.8glx (not GDi)
I has a very hard time accelerating from standstill and at low revs. It feels like the engine is choking/stops firing. But as soon as it passes 2000rpm the problem diminishes. The weird thing is, that the problem only occurs when the engine is hot. The first few kilometres theres no trouble, but then it starts.

My theory is that it could be caused by a loose aternator belt. Thats also explains the lack of problems when the enginge is cold, since it will expand when heated. I tried pushing it down and it will move some 11 or 12 millimetres before coming to a stop. That seems a bit much to me, but I don't know this model so well. Anyone know where to find torque values and specifications for it on the net? Alas Haynes has not yet made a repair manual.

Any other bids on what my problem is? (except for my poor english off course:-)

Regards
Vonmag

My car is cranking but not starting, I do not think there is fuel reaching the engine. When I took the top bolt out from the fuel filter the fuel leaking seemed under high pressure so I think the main fuel pump in the tank is working but the fuel not reaching the carb from the fuel filter? I've tried pressurised air through the hose to the tank and the hose to the engine but nae luck. Could it be air in the system? A little stuck, I could really do with some advice from someone with mechanical experience.

Just a quick word of advice based on my out of pocket experience:

If you have a yellow light on and the car is using 20% more fuel AND is over 40k miles OR you haven't had a new oxygen sensor for 40k miles then the probable cause is the sensor as they only last 40k miles approx, once the sensor dies the cars brain runs of default settings - hence the 20% more fuel use.

DON'T pay you local Mitsubishi dealer to read the fault with his machine - he will charge you about £45 plus vat PER GO - a fault fix may need several go's

DO Buy a OBDC reader from ebay for about £35 - Mine is a CAR CARE u480 CAN OBD2 AUTOSCANNER car diagnostic tool - this box will also allow you to turn off the yellow light
(which will re illuminate again if the fault remains) it has a error code book that will take you to the faulty part

Also you can reset the yellow light by resetting the whole electronic ignition unit by simply removing the red + battery lead for 10 seconds. (again expect the light to illuminate again after a few minutes ... each time ... that is until the actual fault is resolved)

ALSO Mitsubishi wanted £130 for a new Lambda oxygen sensor - I found one available from the NGK replacement oxygen sensor catalogue HOWEVER the correct one for ENGINE 4G92 was incorrectly listed against the 1.8 engine anyway buy this part - its about £48 to £78 once you have found a supplier for NGK Oxygen sensors
don't fit a generic one as i did they DO NOT WORK , they all have specific amperages and heat tolerances - you cant just use anything THIS IS THE CORRECT PART

NGK Oxygen Sensor Part No NGK 0ZA448-E53 Stock No 0448 Book Ref 460000448010

well looks like that might save someone about £150 on their dealer bill.

Oh finally the sensor is on the outlet manifold, it looks like a spark plug, you can buy an open sided socket from ebay to fit these with to protect the wiring.
it takes 10 mins
> disconnect its connector block > wrench out the old one >
wrench in the new sensor > reconnect the connector block > DONE
fitting is the same as with plugs - wait until threads are just about biting then wap it in 1/4 of a turn - no more.

SHARE THE KNOWLEDGE !!! SAVE A FORTUNE

Can i fit a universal performance air filter to a 1.6 carisma ?

If so can i unplug the wires and fit it to the flexy rubber pipe?

Mitsubishi have a Turbocharged gdi engine, and im thinking about doing it to mine, the problems i see tho is the gdi injectors, the ecu and the gdi engines compression ratio. the gdi injectors i believe can only run up to 58psi without the car going into emergancy mode which obviously then brings me onto the ecu which would cause this....Does any one know if its possible to get larger injectors for the 1.8 GDI, i have a found a gdi turbo ecu by magnetti marreli which can drive the injectors and run the engine under quite large levels of boost, and lastley the compression ratio is somthing like 12.5 : 1 this would have to be lowered dramaticly, and restrict the car to run probly 7psi maximum boost.. the 4g93 turbo kit would do the trick up to obviously the injectors (aswell as fuel pump, pressure regualtor etc) so iwas wondering if anyone has attempted this or even looked into it.

hello
I have 1999 Mitsubishi Carisma facelift gdi.
When weather came warmer my carisma start to showing ETV cont error. My mechanic was cleaning throttle body, but about 200 km the errror came back and i can only remove the fault when i reset ecu.
The error will come when engine is warm and i drive in mid rpm and when i need to brake suddenly.

excuse me my boor english crammar.

alvar