post reported now updated march 2011


99-02 Pajero/Montero Sport
http://www.sendspace.com/file/t0ijqc


98 Pajero/Montero Sport
http://www.sendspace.com/file/mch6o1

89-Pajero(U.S model,no diesel,Thanks off-roader)
http://www.sendspace.com/file/v8umxr


00-02 Pinin/io
no longer availaible

Mitsubishi-Pajero-Montero-2000-Workshop-Manual PDF downloadable

http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Pajero-M...hop-Manual.html

Mitsubishi-Pajero-Sport-
http://pdftown.com/Mitsubishi-Pajero-Sport...hop-Manual.html

01-02 Pajero/Montero
no longer available

99 PajeroSport
no longer available

hi just found this link so could you make this a sticky please all download in pdf format this should help you all out all models coverd listed below

Visit manuals here


montero_fsm_1983 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)

montero_fsm_1984 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)

montero_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

montero_fsm_1987 (Electrical)

montero_fsm_1989 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

montero_fsm_1989 (Electrical)

montero_fsm_1992 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

montero_fsm_1992 (Electrical)

montero_fsm_1992-1995 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

montero_fsm_1992-1995 (Electrical)

montero_fsm_1996 (Engine, Chassis & Body) [Includes Engine and Transmission Overhaul]

montero_fsm_1996 (Electrical)

montero_fsm_1998 (Engine, Trans, Fuel, etc.)

montero_fsm_1998 (Body, Axles, Electrical, etc.)

montero_fsm_2003 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)

montero_fsm_2006 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)



montero_tsb_to 1996



monterosport_fsm_1999-2002 (Engine, Chassis & Body)



mitsubishi_fsm_engine_6g72 (Various versions from various vehicles)

mitsubishi_fsm_engines_1990-2002 (Seems to be all of them)

mitsubishi_fsm_servicebulletins-au_2003 (Australian TSBs)

mitsubishi_fsm_transmissions_1990-2001 (Seems to be all of them)



mitsubishi-au_tsb_to 2003 (From Australia)



raider_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

raider_fsm_1987 (Electrical)

raider_fsm_1987_Raider_fbcdriveability (FBC Driveability and Troubleshooting) [FBC=FeedBack Carb]

raider_fsm_1988 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

raider_fsm_1988 (Electrical)

raider_fsm_1989_powertraindiagnostics-30l (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures) [Includes: No-start and Driveability]



colt_arrow_racing (Performance tips for 2.6L NA motor)



pajero_fsm_printed-1998_all

pajero_fsm_nm_full_2001

pajero_fsm_np_full_2002

pajero_fsm_np_suppmanual_2003-2005

pajero_fsm_printed-1990_engine_4D56-25-diesel

pajero_fsm_printed-1995_engine_4M40-28-diesel

pajero_fsm_printed-2000_engine_4M41-32-diesel



pajero-sport_fsm_full_1999-2001



starion_fsm_1987 (Engine, Body & Chassis)

starion_fsm_1988 (Electrical)



starion_tsb


conquest_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

conquest_fsm_1988 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

conquest_fsm_1988 (Electrical)



3000gt_fsm_1991 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

3000gt_fsm_1991 (Electrical)

3000gt_fsm_1992-1996 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

3000gt_fsm_1992-1996 (Electrical)

3000gt_tim_1993 (Technical Information Manual)

3000gt_fsm_1995 spyder (Spyder Supplement)



stealth_fsm_1991 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

stealth_fsm_1994 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

stealth_fsm_1994 (Electrical)



eclipse_fsm_1990-1998 (Engine, Chassis & Body)

eclipse_fsm_1990-1998 (Electrical)



talon/laser_fsm_1990 (Engine, Chassis & Body)



ASA / CAPS Parts Programs

mmc-asa_usa.exe (Replaces CAPS) [Be sure to read the dialog boxes for install info]

wincaps-setup.exe (US v3.41)



caps_usa_341.zip

caps_jpn_350.zip

caps_eur_341.zip

caps_gen_341.zip



Other Manuals

haynes_montero_raider_mightymax_1983-1993

clymer_ranger_bronco_1983-1987 [Has 2.3 diesel info]

arb_installation_guide_rd110 [V6 large front diff]



Parts Catalogs

raider_partscatalog_1989

conquest_partscatalog_1987-1988



Other Catalogs

3msealants_catalog.pdf

acl_pistonproducts_pp03.pdf

acl_pistonproducts_pp99.pdf

arp_catalog_bulkfasteners_.pdf

arp_catalog_cylinderheadstuds.pdf

arp_catalog_info.pdf

arp_catalog_rodbolts.pdf

au-ve-co_catalog.pdf (2005 Edition)

clevite_catalog.pdf

Ok, 1-888-MITSU2005 ..that is the number to mits of north america...they are about ten mles away from me..I recently called to get my radio code because my battery had to be replaced...I just asked to speak to someone that could help me with my caode..The lady on the other line never transferred me just asked me for my vin and serial number from radio..two mins later radio code.....it's that simple...just be nice and say your battery died.....i hope this stops the same question I hear everyday.......

One of the three most asked questions on this forums relates to the 4WD operation and what the flashing dash lights mean. I have pinned this topic and attached a link which describes the system quite well (including pics).

If you are having trouble with your system or just want to know what is the correct operation is vs incorrect have a look at this before searching or starting a new thread.

http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view.run?articleID=318776

Jim


PS: The top questions are;

1/ I want to find a service manual for my vehicle?
2/ I need a radio code for my vehicle
3/ What do the flashing 4wd lights mean?

If you could help with the first two I will sicky them to the top. Our Russian link seems to have gone AWAL.

Hi all,

Recently, we have had a thread going on replacement of O2 sensors. This is a hot topic during these times of increased fuel prices and understanding complicated engine management systems. The O2 sensor is an essential part of the engine control and can fail without having any fault codes come to our attention.

It will become increasinlly important that we know how to test & diagnois a faulty sensor and then replace with the correct part. This may sound easy but as this attached thread points out there are different types of sensors now available and the parts code listed can be wrong. It was also discovered that certain after market brands perform better than others so this is another trap for those uninformed. Going OEM is not always the best option as it can cost over $1200US to replace sensors which may still be functioning.,

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t38645-an...gen-sensors.htm

I know that this attached thread link is long and difficult to follow. It is my intension in pinning this new thread to develop a good comphrensive place to document test methods, available replacements and problems we have encountered with the sensors. If you have some information which would be of use to all of us in this thread please post it up.

I will attach a link below that describes how sensors work and basic test procedures for a start. Do note that this article is a little out-dated and technology has advanced. Just one of the recent pitfalls I discovered.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?p...G/o2sensor.html


Jim

Use the link to up date the hard drive on the cggb on the Fosgate Music System

I HAVE DONE IT TWICE NOW ITS VERY EASY TO DO!!

11th January 2010

The Gracenote Data base has been updated to May 2009 the link remains the same and its still very easy to down load and install into the MMCS system.

Try this Link http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/download/...wn_mmcs_01.html

where is the fuel filter in a 2002 montero XLS 3.5liter

Good people: sorry if I mess this up, this is my very first post. I tried to post a picture for one of the questions hope you can see it. I have a 1998 Montero 3.5 V6 with overdrive.

I have two questions:

1) Believe it or not I asked Mitsubishi dealer what this part was, the service adviser of 11 years had to ask the mechanic and the mechanic wasn't sure. Can you say pathetic? I have seen this part on few Monteros but mine doesn't have it. What is it and what is it supposed to do?

2) When I drive over some bumps, I both hear and feel a knocking (simultaneously) from the steering column. At least that is where I think it originates. I feel it on my steering wheel. Dealer couldn't find the source but suspected it is from the steering rod going into the gear box. They also said if that is what it is then there is nothing they can do about it but it is not unsafe to drive it like that. Maybe so but it is unbelievably annoying to hear it and feel it constantly.

Does anyone know what I am referring to? Has anyone experienced the same thing? And if so were you able to correct the situation?


Thank you
Robert

Hi,

I am looking to replace some parts on my 2001 Montero LTD. It has the 6G74 engine. However, I have access to another engine that looks like it is the 6G72 version. I'm not exactly sure what the differences are but it looks pretty much identical. Obviously it's not due to the different number identification. Does anyone know what the differences are and what parts may or may not be interchangeable? I'm looking for heads and air intake/fuel rail. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks

My montero's RPM seems to be too low at idle, around 500 RPM. The car vibrates at traffic light but if i put it in neutral the rpm goes up by a couple of hundred and the vibration goes away. i adjusted the throttle cable to raise the rpm, it worked for a day then i believe the on board computer adjusted back to where it was. this is very annoying.

does anyone know how do i increase the rpm just enough to get rid of the vibration?

thanks
R

Sparkplug Change Mitsubishi Montero Sport LS 3.0 V6 1997
Valve Cover Gasket Change
Rear Cam Oil Seal Change

Here also a video of it all: Video Sparkplug, valve cover, rear cam oil seal change.

Prep Work:
Engine Wash
Sea Foam Engine Oil, gas and intake through brake booster line
Drop coolant level, drain aprox 1 gal of coolant

Nice to have:
-number and sow away in boxes bolts, parts, label with blue tape
-magnetic pick tool and grab-tool, saves time recovering bolts that fall down engine compartment
-doesn’t hurt to disconnect the battery or be very careful and cover battery connectors
-anti-seize lubricant for sparkplugs, connector grease for the sparkplug-wires

Material:
Spark Plug Wires Oreilly Kragen Wires #40152
Rear Cam Oil Seal, driver side, , Mitsu # MN176208 Qty.: 2, 2*12mm bolts
new valve cover gaskets Felpro, Oreilly VS50461R
Surge Tank (Intake gasket) Felpro, Oreilly MS95709
Spark plugs, non- gap, platinum, Bosch, OReilly Spark plugs Bosch #6724
O2 Sensor Bank2, Sensor1, Denso #234-4656
O2 Sensor Bank2, Sensor2 , Denso #234-4633
 
To do:
1. MAF Sensor connector
2. Air filter housing
3. Vacuum line rear of intake to bank1 (passenger side) valve cover
4. Disconnect wire harness under maf, near bank1 valve cover, hold out of way with cable ties
5. Idle air connector (con.)
6. Throttle sensor con
7. Clip cruise control vacuum line
8. Vacuum line cruise control
9. Cable ties O2 sensors, bracket 12mm O2 sensors
10. 3x ignition coils con of wire harness label ignition wires with cylinder numbers, engraved on top of intake, driver side: (bank2, left)#2,4 & 6 and passenger side (bank1, right)1, 3 & 5

11. Evap sensor con. rear of intake passenger
12. 3 bigger connectors on top, I guess, eg crank shaft posit sensor con
13. Small connector underneath: remove spring entirely with super small flat head screw driver, not to break plastic con.
14. 2x coolant temp sensor con.
15. 1x small blue cable in that area, con. With small/on small bracket
16. 2x throttle cable hang out (remove), 10mm bolt, 12mm bolt, mark bolts or label with blue tape, otherwise you’ll have a puzzle later!!! I numbered all items I detached with numbers from this list, so for reassembly I could go with this “Christmas Calendar” step by step

17. Loose one nut of lower throttle cable, to hang out of bracket, 12mm
18. “triangle” bracket (Water outlet fitting bracket, 3x 12mm)
19. EVAP lines, top, 2x10mm (I have California version w/o EGR valve and EGR pipe connection  )
20. Brake booster line (make sure, have hand brake on)
21. Gas line bracket, front driver side (2x 12mm I believe)
22. 2x ground wire on top, 10mm
23. Let off coolant, about 1gal
24. Disconnect 2x coolant hoses from Throttle body
25. Vacuum line front passenger of intake to fuel regulator (If you need more than 1 day to do repair, close all open hoses or openings with blue tape, you don’t want to fry a bee in your intake later)

26. L-bracket with 2 sensors con. , black (triangle, 3 pin) and grey (3 pin), 10mm
27. Ignition power transistor
28. Water pump stay (2x 12mm) I had shorter bolt in water pump, longer bolt in Intake
29. Surge Tank Stay, 14mm lower bolts 2x, 12mm upper bolts 2x
30. Solenoid valve and vacuum hose assembly, 2x 10mm on top, 2x 10mm rear
31. 4 screws intake upper half, 12mm, make a template, number all intake bolts and label w/ blue tape bolts
32. Dip stick 12mm
33. Timing cover 2x 10mm passenger
34. Timing cover driver side, 2x 12mm, these bolts hold a cable holder and a wire harness bracket

-Lift off intake, clean surfaces, clean inside, put safely aside, inspect for damage
- Change sparkplugs (check gaps!!!) and sparkplug-wires, label (number) the wires, match the length and label/number the new wires, then reinstall, apply anti-seize lubricant to sparkplugs, apply connector grease to the sparkplug-wires.
Take off oil filler, 2x12mm, I think

35. Valve cover driver, 6x 10mm
-take off valve covers, clean inside and out, clean gasket grooves, degrease

36. When valve cover is off, take out rear cam oil plugs (2x 12mm) and replace O-ring (Mitsu # MN176208). Slightly hard to get to on driver side, best with ratcheting wrench 12mm from underneath and above. The plug needs to be turned or wiggled back and forth, slights out easily, tight tolerances. Replace with new O-ring and apply little sealant on flat mating surfaces (the ones that touch the rear of cylinder head).
-I also changed the O2 Sensor Bank2, Sensor1, Denso #234-4656 (rear of engine, driver) and O2 Sensor Bank2, Sensor2, Denso #234-4633 (passenger side, the lower of the two, just follow exhaust pipe of bank2)

37. To reinstall Intake, take 2x M6 Bolts, 10cm, saw off the bolt head, saw a groove in, so you have a flat head screw as “helper”, position at front and back of intake, put intake gasket in place, drop intake on top, secure with bolts, take helpers out, replace bolts instead – done!


Hope you guys like it
Have a good one!
Sebastian

Disclaimer: (keeps my butt out of trouble) Whilst we endeavor to keep the information up-to-date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.
In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of or in connection with the use of this website.

Can someone please recommend an aftermarket water temp guage that works for the 2001 Monetro LTD.
I tried an mechanical gauge which had it's own temp reader probe that only fitted in the second temp unit sender that has two wires. After disconnecting the original it affected the fan speed and rpm so that's no good, but it did read the temp just fine.

I have not tried the smaller one wire sending unit because the supplied probe was too big to fit. I'm assuming an electric gauge might connect directly to that sending unit.

I'm going to try next an electric water gauge but don't know which one. If anyone has one installed, can you please advise the model and some basic install information. Do you connect it directly to the original single wire sending unit or does it come with it's own sending unit? Please advise.
The reason I need the guage is becuase of the ECU cluster that has failed. I'm not looking to repair it because of the cost. An ext gauge will be fine.

Hello all. Histiry: I have a 1991 Montero, 3.0 V6, Auto, 165k, 4dr. I've owned it for 5 years and never any problems except for plugs getting gummed up last year. I replaced the plugs, cap and rotor then. Ran around town last night, made a few stops, came home and parked it. Ran great last night with no problems. It's been burning oil for some time, but is the worst when it's warmer out and while sitting at a light, drive-thru, etc. When it's warm it starts a bit hard - I think due to the oil leaking into the cylinders. On a morning or cold start it fires immediately - except for this morning. It fired up, ran for about 5 seconds, sputtered and quit. It rained last night so I figured maybe moisture. Tried it again and nothing, just cranking over. I was on the low side for fuel so dumped a couple gallons in the tank - nothing. Unplugged the MAF sensor and pulled breather hose to spray some starting fluid in the TB with no result. Put the breather hose back on and plugged in the MAF. It started for a couple seconds and quit. It hasn't fired since. I get no spark. I checked the cap & rotor, both looked good - no moisture there. Cleaned them up and tested the cap to verify contact bewteen the wire connectors and tabs and the button - all ok. From then on I tried different: ECU, 5 coils (I have a bunch of spare parts. ), 3 power transistors, condensor & other thingy next to it, looked in engine compartment and underside for bare/burnt/broken wires. A few times I got one single spark while cranking but not continuous and nothing after turning the key off and trying again. Checked the coil with a spark tester - nothing. Tested the coil power connector - got 12VDC but also got 12VDC continous from the signal wire with a meter BUT oddly it wouldn't light the test light (yes, it's a good light). Tested the power transistor - got 12VDC from the center wire, nothing from the signal out wire with the test light, nothing from the signal in wire with the test light but it reads 1.8VDC all the time and 2.8VDC when cranking. On the distributor/crank sensor wire I get no voltage at all from either either the POS or NEG sides. I see on the wiring diagram that it gets power from the engine control relay ( which I have no idea where it is or would test/replace it). And the other two wires run back to the ECU. So I'm thinking that either the engine control relay is bad because the crank sensor won't give a signal without power...or I have 2 bad ECUs. It is getting fuel too. I can smell it from the open plug ports when the plugs are out. And after cranking it many times I can smell it in the tailpipe. I didn't check pressure or compression.

Does anyone have any ideas, history with this problem? Am I on the right track? Does anyone know where the engine control relay is on this year so I can at least test or replace it? This is my daily driver so any help is greatly appreciated! (My boss will appreciate it too since I missed work today.
Sorry for the length but I wanted to provide enough history/info.
TIA

Hey Mitsubishi Forum,

I searched the forum but couldn't find the topic, so here is my problem:

--> it seems my lower radiator hose is too cold.

- I replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap
- I have nice pressure on both hoses
- the upper is hot, the lower is cold, maybe hand-warm
- my gauge is and stays right in the middle
- the heater blows hot air, when I want it
- I used prediluted coolant/water mixture, so I guess, that is ok
- changing the thermostat, I flushed the engine and heater core, no dirt left, I guess...

Even after 12 miles driving the lower hose is [totally] cold.
Is that normal??? Any suggestions?

I wonder if I have to take the [just new] thermostat out again and put in boiling water or replace again...?

Any thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.
Thanks

The Ride:
98 Montero 3.5L full size @180k

Some Background:
I've had an oil leak for a few years that eventually killed 2 alternators. I recently learned how to change it myself and gave it a shot last weekend with the aid of a shop manual and YouTube. I also changed an o-ring on the rear cam plug that I thought was the cause of the oil leak. After this repair, I am still getting a smaller oil leak (see video), but this is not my BIG PROBLEM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=playe...p;v=bRJT0oUS-ac

The BIG problem:
After the alternator swap and cam plug o-ring change, I drove my Montero for a week with no obvious problems. No burning oil smell, smoke or leaking on my clean, rebuilt AutoZone alternator. This past Saturday, I went to start the car but couldn't. It looked and sounded like the engine was trying to turn over but it quit out almost immediately. It almost seems like something electrical blew out the way everything just shut off. I tried turning the key again and NOTHING... No dashboard lights, no radio power, no alarm LED flashing. What's crazy is that the power door locks work fine, and so do the headlights and interior lights...even a day later. I tried jumping the battery and that didn't help. It's obviously not a battery problem.

What did I do to my Montero? Did a fuse blow and if so, which fuse could it be. The under the hood fuse box cover had its markings rubbed off over the years and I cannot find a simple fuse diagram on line. Lost the owners manual a while back. How is it possible that I could I have caused a short a week after swapping out the alternator? Is it even an alternator issue or could it be my starter?

This Montero is my only vehicle . I know I may need to get this towed to a shop ASAP, but I would loved to be able to figure this out and make the repair on my own.

Any guidance is surely appreciated. I need to get back on the road, fast.

How do you know which cylinder is cylinder 3 on a 3.0 v6 shogun sport ?

Greetings fellow Mitsubishi owners! I have an issue I could use some help on. I have a 2001 Montero Limited and it has a blown speaker in the rear area. I need some guidance on how to remove it so I can replace it. I tried to simply remove the speaker cover to access it and that was a mistake. It broke off because it was screwed in from the opposite side. It appears I will have to remove the driver side rear interior panel to get to the speaker. Does anyone have any advise or tips before I start exploring and possibly break any other brackets?

Please advise....

Thanks.

I have a 2.5TD shogun animal 2002. It started loosing oil and I thought the worst (big ends) only to find the oil is making it's way into the water resivoir tank. I first thought this would be the head gasket but the oil in the water tank is pure oil non mulsified or creamy like it would be if it was the head gasket. Any ideas folks

Anybody having issues with a code saying the engine is not worming up properly.

Please help me find the OBDII connector for my 1994 montero. I have looked everywhere and no luck. I think it is around the hood release (i read elsewhere), but I cannot find it. Please take a picture in your reply. Thanks!!

Also just looked and MFG date is sept 1993. so does that mean no OBD2? I took a picture of the area where I think it should be. There is a 12 pin connector w/ one pin in it next to the fuse panel near the brake pedal. see pic.

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/236t7icoys63syw/montero.JPG
[/img]

hi, I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem and could give me some advice on how to fix it. my temp gauge in my 2001 Montero Limited is reading hot. When I first start it up it reads cool then within seconds it goes to the mid point temp range and then to above hot after only driving it for max of 4 minutes. I pulled over and let it sit for a minute and checked under the hood, the engine was cool there was no girgling sounds coming from the radiator the coolant levels were fine. I've checked for leaks and there doesn't appear to be a leak anywhere.

any advice anyone can give me would be appreciated.

thank you!
montero1

Hi,

my shogun has suddenly developed a set of lights on the dash, abs, skid, brake and asc, plus the cruise control doesn't work or the four wheel drive system and the auto dimming mirror.

This happened after the heat blower control stopped working, I had the recovery people come and sort it out but, but after that fix the above faults appeared, I have checked all the fuses and all are ok, internally and in engine bay..

HELP?

Darren

I have a pajero io GDI(1998) and it start make me problems with the acceleration.when i m driving it start losing power and when i press the petal violent it start responding normally.the diagnostic dint show me any problems,the engine light and the others are switch off as normal,but the fuel pump pressure range between 4.0-5.0...any ideas?i clean the throttle,i check the sparks,and clean the mass flow.any ideas to help?

I would like to hear from anyone who has decatted there petrol shogun sport and if the results are worthwhile ie power and sound etc . Somebody must have already done this or will I be the first , Or is there any other easy way of getting more power out of my shogun

Hi to all,

I have a 1994 Mitsbishi Pajero witha 4m40 engine which I had quite a few problems (Overheating) and I want to change the engine to a 4d56 2.5 I found a good deal and bought a lwb pajero automatic as well with a 2.5 engine 4d56.

Is it possible to fit with the same gear box ?? both are the same year and automatic.

Thank you
Gordon Pace

driver side broken release button need to know how to assembly the unit or if it can be fixed or has to be replaced

hi all im a newbie , i got a problem with my 1997 shogun , my problem is that the wire that triggers the 3rd coil has no voltage from ecu , i have located the 3 wires that go from amplifier to ecu, 2 of the wires have around 0.30 volts but the third wire just stays at 0.02 i have disconnected the amplifier multiplugs and voltages at ecu are the same so not a fault in engine bay, i have replaced the ecu with a new one at a cost of 350.00 but still the same, does anyone know if the crank sensor goes directly to the ecu or if it goes to somewhere else first . also ive been told there is a metal spindle behind the crankshaft pulley that sends the signal at the correct time does the sensor send one or 3 signals to ecu ,just thinking if this maybe broke and no triggering the ecu , any help would be very appreciated thanks

have a 2.8 shogun which began to overcharge.
i replaced the alternator with a refurbished one. The new alternator will not charge as the light on dash will not illuminate when i turn on the ignition.

with the old alternator it DID illuminate when i turned the ignition on.

i replaced alternator with another refurbished alternator, ( cost now spirraling out of control) but second alternator has same fault, the light on dash will not illuminate.

two wires in plug that connect to alternator, yellow and white.
yellow is always live and the white is only live when i turn the ignition on. with this white wire and the ignition on, when i short this wire out to earth the bulb on dash illuminates.
connect plug to alternator and bulb will NOT illuminate.

took refurbished alternator to a different workshop to check and they gave it a clean bill of health.

HELLLPPPPPP

what on earth is going on as ive only changed the alternator
ps still doesnt charge

any help much appreciated
pleeeeeaaaseeeeeeee

Hi all ..

Plz i need help about this issue ... every time the car is starting good but twice i faced this problem i put the key and try to start the engine but no response no voices just lights are working gd every thing is ok all i have to to transfer the gear from p to r then back to p again and it will start normally and fast .. it happened twice during last 2 days so plz help me.

I have a 01 montero limited and wondering if any of you have experience removing the 3rd row seat?

for sale is my shogun 2.5td gls lwb 7 seats mot runs out this week as it needs some welding under the drivers side outrigger inside the front drivers side innerwing just needs some tender loving care as i dont want to scrap it engine is good 4d56 gearbox is good looking for offers around £500 but it needs to go by this weekend 15/7/12 as thats when the insurance stops as i have bought a shogun sport 3ltr
the car is in Lincoln uk

[attachment=15618:shogun_2.5.JPG]


sorry now been scraped

Hi,

I have a 1990 pajero 4D56 engine
The rocker arm bearing failed on my 4th cylinder inlet valve.
i was driving with the engine running at 2400 rpm when this happened.
After opening the tapped cover, i saw the bearing has disintegrated into pieces and the arm was contacting the cam and had worn out a bit.
the oil level and pressure is spot on, the engine has done 180000 KM
Any idea why this happened. and what i should be checking
cheers,

First of all I'm surprised to still be listed as forum Moderator after I resigned nearly a year ago. Was happy enough to visit forum now after disposing of my 97 Pajero.

Am now looking at a newer model being a 2005 3.8l V6 SOHC, 24 valve MIVEC, petrol LWB Exceed with full options. I am not familiar with this engine and wonder why they went away from the previous GDI motor. Have also noticed that Mitsi changed from this engine a couple of years later and went to a smaller displacement (believe noisey 3.2 diesel only) with a larger power output than the 150kw.

Can one of you knowledgable, friendy gentlemen give me the the low down on this vehicle including any problems I may encounter? I know about hydroulic lifter noise and assume that this continues with the new versions.

jim

Had my truck since new. Noticed yesterday that the radio no longer keeps radio stations in memory and when I turn over the key it sounds like it is trying to eject a CD. Radio also doesn't come back on if left on when truck was shut off.

I have Easy ID fuses which light up if bad and all indicated ok, but I still visually checked the fuses inside the truck and underneath the hood. I also checked ground cables to engine.

The manual indicates there is a fusible link to check (other than the fuses) which I was unable to find; however, I did check connector A-54X and everything appeared ok.

Since it kept trying to load a CD, I wondered what would happen if I fed it one. So the sound I was hearing upon start up is definitely the Cd player trying to load a CD.

If I shut the radio itself off all memory saved. If I turn the car off and back on quickly, memory saved. If I shut the car off for 30 seconds and back on memory lost and when I turn on the radio afterwards, it is on AM and tries to load CD?

Do these radios have an internal battery somewhere similar to a computer?

On another note which is possibly related, I have never had to put in a code to get the radio to work even when I disconnected the battery over night and I keep reading that I was supposed to have to.

Hi there,

I own a 2006 LWB Pajero with a 3.0 V6 .... this thing is very weak .... I'm looking to increase power but i have no idea where to start or if it's even possible , any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks

I hope someone can help. I have an 01 3.2 Auto Pajero. When I start to drive and the car is cold all is well. When I have driven about 3 to 4 miles and stop, the car will start chugging with the revs dropping to about 750 rpm and black smoke out the back. The car is straining to drive even when the brake is applied. The same happens in reverse. When I put it in Neutral or Park the chugging stops. I have changed the ATF and used Dia Queen SPIII and cleaned filter. I have also checked that the cooler line is clear of blockages. The magnets in pan where clean and there was nothing in the old ATF that was drained and filtered.

When the car is cold and the foot brake is applied I can put the car in Drive and accelerate (but not move because of brakes) should this be possible or should the brakes make power disengage?

I have seen threads about similar problems but nothing recent.

Local Mitsubishi dealer said they have never heard of this problem?? But they were willing to bring the car in to test etc!!!!!

The engine runs great and car has only done 85k and has never had a towbar fitted.

I am baffled, Any help gratefully received.

Has anyone had theres replaced or refurbished ? I have a 2001 model and the fuel pump is going , been told this because when you put the AC on it starts to effect the engine very dramatically and you get plums of smoke from the rear .
Where could I get a replacement part or have mine repaired

2004 swb shogun
we can not open the rear door
the car will unlock but lift the handle and nothing!!!!!
any help out there please ... we are taking our caravan out this weekend!!!!!
kids, dogs and bags and NO BOOT
thanks in advance

Hello guys,

It's been a while, Happy New Year to all.

Today when driving and stopping at the lights, the engine just stuttered and died. The idling had been a little jerky, but it was almost unnoticeable and I had thought of cleaning it soon.

I managed to drive it home and the beast was dying on me at every slow down, turns and stops. This evening I had the throttle body cleaned and checked. It started okay like normal with just a crank, idling smoothly...until...I shifted the tranny and then the engine began dying on me again. I knew it was something else.

Also, I usually have the 'whirrrrr' sound when I turn on the ignition, now it's just quiet but it still cranks and ignites, only the engine won't stay put and just died.

I have no idea where to start checking...could it be the fuel pump, or something else or the ECU?

I would appreciate any input from anyone who has had any similar issues.

Thank you.

Have a 1999 Montero Sport 3.0 with 192K miles. The past year or so the engine has been using about a quart of oil every 1k miles. Seems like all of a sudden oil usage is down to a quart every 600 miles. When leaving from a stop there is a puff of blue smoke coming out the exhaust. The car has been very well maintained throughout along with oil changes every 3K from the beginning and has never given me one problem. I realize though the mileage is high and time for some major work. I assume the oil consumption is caused by the valve seals starting to go bad and/or the valve guides. Is there any other seals/areas in this motor that could cause this oil consumption? The car is still in immaculate condition and want to keep driving it. Any suggestions? Thx

I put a new timing belt and water pump on a 90 montero, v6 3.0L, drove it two or three times with no problems.
I stopped to add fuel and then it would not start. towed it home, recharged the battery, (low from cranking on it at
the gas station) then tried to start it, cranked it for a bit then checked a few things. the next time i tried to start it
the starter sounded like it locked up. checked the battery (charge) level and it was o.k. so far it has cranked over
o.k. or sounds like the starter locks up, back and forth about 6 times. I have not heard the fuel pump (at key on)
most times, but a couple times it has "whirred" continually, usually when it sounds like the starter locks up....??
anybody have anything similar happen?

Hi all, this is my first posting and it's a cry for help please!

I have a shogun sport 2.5 turbo diesel on a 56 plate, approx 52000 miles on the clock.

The other morning I started it up and usually there is a typical diesel knocking for about 2 or 3 seconds then it stops. But this time it seemed to get a little louder rather than stop!

I checked the oil and the level is good.

I recently changed the alternator belts because one snapped. I have noticed I have the common problem of a faulty bottom pully and this needs attending too on my next trip to the UK (I live in France).

But the car has run ok for about 6 weeks or so after the belt change.

Do you think the "diesel Knocking" is related to the faulty bottom pully?

The sound does come from the rocker cover though and not from the belts area.

When I first start the car it will not rev any higher than tick over. When it warms up it will rev and drive but it does lack power.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

hi guys n gals........ couple of quick questions re my shoggy sport,
mine has central locking, but no remote...... turn-key locking does all the doors and boot, just wondering if my model/year should have a remote [fob] and maybe a prev owner lost it?
also
i want to change all the fluids and give her a full monty service, so....... valve-clearances ? manual adjuster? or shim under bucket? and could you tell me the clearances inl+exh ?
what flavour lubes do i need too ?
rear diff?
transfer box?
engine oil?
gearbox? [or is the gearbox and transfer case all one unit]?
many thanks

The fault indicator light on the dash 4WD indicator (the orange flashing CD light) has often played up but is usually sorted by turning off the motor and allowing it to reset. Have also had to have the fault codes cleared to stop the light flashing. Now it is flashing all the time and does not allow 4wd to be engaged (engaged 4wd and tested by climbing a steep gassy back which gave rear wheel spin but nothing from the front wheels, similarly accelerating in loose gravel gave rear wheel spin but no front traction). Previously when the fault occurred during 4wd touring the 4wd could still be activated. Help please. Trevor

Just to make a liar out of me I called in at an Auto electrician on the way home, backed into a parking space and shut of motor. After about 15 mins restarted and all lights back to normal, Road tested around home in all 4wd modes and all worked fine. Left it in 4H. I have just been out to vehicle (4 hours since it was last running) and when turning on ignition only the cd fault light was flashing but on starting when it went through its checks again all lights ok. I am even more puzzled now

Am now wondering if the problem relates to the front vacuum solenoids that activate the front drive - by waiting for the vehicle to do its checks and not starting the motor immediately there may not be enough vacuum generated to activate them - hence the fault code - is this logical?

I have a bad oil leak from the back of the camshaft cover and onto the exhaust.
Have replaced the rubber gasket and also both "D" seals twice!
This may be caused by a problem with the engine breather system causing excessive back pressure forcing oil from under the camshaft cover.
It is a 1994 M reg. Shogun 2.8D GLS LWB.
Have you any suggestion or know of a website that might be able to help.
Apart from the above, it starts every time, is in regular use and is very reliable.

Regards,

Kirk.

can anyone help please , i have a problem with speedo not working , when it went it was jumping around alot even when in neutral. it is a manual 5 speed pajero/montero , from what i can see it has power going down to the sensor so guessing it is the sensor on transmission .if anyone has had same problem how did you fix and can you get aftermarket parts in australia. saw part on ebay but listing is gone and no one else is posting here.

Exhaust headers for 3L V6 Pajero 1994 12 valve.
Does they exist? I've been surfing a while with no success. All i can find are the stock cast iron manifolds.
Nothing available to tweak up the performance a bit?

Got this 97/98 Challenger 6G74 3.5L (Japanese specs) which came in on a hook, both the throttle and accelerator pedal position sensors have been shifted. The engine doesn't idle so I need to get these within specs to make an accurate diagnosis. Everything I am getting is for newer models.