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Announcement: The Offical 2nd Hooters Meet. |
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EMC 3000gt |
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Last post by: EMC 3000gt
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gevo |
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8th June 2009 - 07:02 PM Last post by: johnscarff |
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Benckj |
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24th May 2009 - 03:42 PM Last post by: tabauknight |
One of the three most asked questions on this forums relates to the 4WD operation and what the flashing dash lights mean. I have pinned this topic and attached a link which describes the system quite well (including pics).
If you are having trouble with your system or just want to know what is the correct operation is vs incorrect have a look at this before searching or starting a new thread.
http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view.run?articleID=318776Jim
PS: The top questions are;
1/ I want to find a service manual for my vehicle?
2/ I need a radio code for my vehicle
3/ What do the flashing 4wd lights mean?
If you could help with the first two I will sicky them to the top. Our Russian link seems to have gone AWAL.
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Benckj |
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12th May 2009 - 09:09 AM Last post by: Snuffy |
Hi all,
Recently, we have had a thread going on replacement of O2 sensors. This is a hot topic during these times of increased fuel prices and understanding complicated engine management systems. The O2 sensor is an essential part of the engine control and can fail without having any fault codes come to our attention.
It will become increasinlly important that we know how to test & diagnois a faulty sensor and then replace with the correct part. This may sound easy but as this attached thread points out there are different types of sensors now available and the parts code listed can be wrong. It was also discovered that certain after market brands perform better than others so this is another trap for those uninformed. Going OEM is not always the best option as it can cost over $1200US to replace sensors which may still be functioning.,
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t38645-an...gen-sensors.htmI know that this attached thread link is long and difficult to follow. It is my intension in pinning this new thread to develop a good comphrensive place to document test methods, available replacements and problems we have encountered with the sensors. If you have some information which would be of use to all of us in this thread please post it up.
I will attach a link below that describes how sensors work and basic test procedures for a start. Do note that this article is a little out-dated and technology has advanced. Just one of the recent pitfalls I discovered.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?p...G/o2sensor.htmlJim
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gevo |
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3rd May 2009 - 01:04 AM Last post by: MattSpew |
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mr_mkii |
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12th November 2008 - 02:33 PM Last post by: Tejo883 |
Ok, 1-888-MITSU2005 ..that is the number to mits of north america...they are about ten mles away from me..I recently called to get my radio code because my battery had to be replaced...I just asked to speak to someone that could help me with my caode..The lady on the other line never transferred me just asked me for my vin and serial number from radio..two mins later radio code.....it's that simple...just be nice and say your battery died.....i hope this stops the same question I hear everyday.......
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knobstar |
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Today, 11:01 AM Last post by: Ahaggar |
Hi all.
I've offered to help a friend of mine whose camshaft has worn to the point that his engine's now running really bad. The car's a 1994 I think. Is this common? What's the best course of action? Replacement engine? I've had a little look and it seems that they're rather hard to get hold of. My snap reaction is just to tell him to buy another car, which he could do for maybe £600.
ANy advice appreciated - thanks in advance,
Matt
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grumbleweed |
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Today, 10:55 AM Last post by: Ahaggar |
Hi Guys, something cropped up with my 97 Montero 4d56 5 spped manual today. Drives great but sometimes and not everytime, it wont come out of 2nd. The clutch operates and disengages the gear but will not pop out of second. This is random, anyone any ideas as to why please.
Other small thing is that rev counter is not accurate. Sometimes rev counter is fine and next the needle swings anywhere. Obviously a lose or dirty connection somewhere, or sensor, can anyone tell me where to look in the first instance.
Thanks Guys
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jimmyb190 |
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Yesterday, 07:19 PM Last post by: jimmyb190 |
Hi everyone,
I did a search for my problem and read previous posts, but I did not find anything that fit completely with what I am experiencing.
I have a 02 Montero Limited with 55K miles on it. A few months back it started to make a Loud Knocking noise on cold starts that would go away within 5 minutes of driving or so. It was not there all the time either, it would be there for a few days in a row, and then go sometimes up to 3 weeks without a sound. It seemed the warmer it was outside, the less it did it. I tried taking it to the dealer a couple of times, but they always said they could not replicate the noise. Which is believeable since it was not always there.
Here is where the story turns, I just got the fluids changed in the car at a reputable place in my area. Oil, Transmission Fluid, Radiator Fluid were all changed, ever since then the noise has been much louder. The noise will go away, but it seems to take longer, around 10-15 minutes of driving. The noise also goes away is when I am accelerating and the engine is at higher RPM's of about 2500+, but when the engine shifts into a higher gear and the RPM's drop again, the noise comes back.
Here is a video link, this is pretty close to what my engine sounds like now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0CBQcccLDMI know it can be a bearing, but with a bearing would the noise go away at higher RPM's? And why since the fluids were changed did the noise get worse?
A little background, I bougt the vehicle with 35K miles on it, I have given regular oil changes with synthetic oil since I got it. I can't say how well the car was maintained before I purchased it, but physically the car was in great condition, so if that speaks to how they may have maintained the engine, then they may have done their part. But maybe they didn't.
Any opinions would be great.
It is going back to the dealer tomorrow morning, I am just looking for some opinions on what I may be getting into.
Another note, I bought the car as a Certified Used Mitsubishi with the 10 year / 100K mile drivetrain warranty from the original in service date, so it is still under warranty. Has anyone ever had any work done under a Certified Used Car warranty? Is Mitsubishi pretty easy when it comes to their warranty's? Or am I going to be in for a long road to get them to cover something?
Thanks in advance for any opinions.
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efc369 |
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Yesterday, 03:22 PM Last post by: Mystique64 |
Hi My name is Emanuel I'm from PR i has a mitsubishi montero sport (in PR the suv has the name Nativa XLS 200), and the radio cd, am fm is blocked when i try 3 times the security code and I has a 3ERROR, and now the radio say OFF. My question is how I unlock the radio? please help me

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ytpaj |
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2nd July 2009 - 10:37 PM Last post by: ytpaj |
O.k. so I bought a 91 paj 3.0l gas job. So far it seems allright but shy on power. Went on a mopar forum, found out a few things and after a wasted afternoon at the local salvage yards, I was left a little discouraged. Sooo... my q,s are what can I do for more ponies? my paj already has a cat back exhaust(my cat light is on inthe dash, does this mean its toast?)trying to figure out how to put in a CAI but am confused because the airflow sensor thingy is out by the air box. AND... anybody ever turbo one of these?
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tabauknight |
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2nd July 2009 - 06:54 PM Last post by: tabauknight |
I have a 1999 Montero limited white and I have noticed that when American car owners use their remote my alarm goes off. That is right, it goes off, but the doors will not unlock or lock the alarm just goes off.
I am thinking that the alarm goes off because it thinks its under attack but how do I stop it.
Another symptom is I dropped a dime in the lighter in the center console by the hold button. Which before I could get it out w/ gum and a straw it shorted out the outlet and power mirrors.
Also once when I came out to lock the car from the passenger door I hit the button on the door to lock the car and the alarm chirped. I hit the lock button three more time just to see what would happen and the alarm went off. It gets better, when I unlocked the door using the button on the door the alarm turned off.
Go figure. Anyway I need to find the fuse for the alarm so I can pull it to reset the alarm and I need to find the fuse for the power mirror to replace that. But I will take any more suggestions also.
Need help in finding fuses for those items. Looked under dash and don't see it listed (mirror).
Help Please
Cheers,
Tilly
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bamboo7782 |
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2nd July 2009 - 12:58 AM Last post by: bamboo7782 |
I need code for my 97 Montero RS infinity radio.
please help!
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speedevilus |
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30th June 2009 - 04:29 PM Last post by: Ahaggar |
Hi All,
I need your help as my car seems to make a bad noise when I brake. Checked the fronts and they are fine, pads nearly new.
Tried the rear ones and have no clue!
It is a 2002 1.8GDI Pinin. Unfortunately I don't know much about floating brakes.
When I took the rear wheel off, all I could see is cover where I could only imagine it contains the brake mechanism inside.
I am sure rears are disk as when I look for pads on the net for this car they look like normal pads to be used by disks but not sure why it looks very different and doesn't use the same system as any other normal disk and pad system. there is also a Brake Fluid Pipe going to the rear brakes so it is a disk brake for sure.
I came unstuck as to how to take this cover off so I can see the inside and figure it out.
Help.....
If this doesn't help you then I need to take the wheel off again and take pics.
Cheers guys
Andy
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tj90 |
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29th June 2009 - 11:17 AM Last post by: tj90 |
I recently had issue getting my smog certificate with my 03 montero in california. The emissions testing requires a dyno run. The montero traction control would kick in sensing there was a problem that front wheels were not rotating on the 2 wheel dyno. According to the CA booklet on smog, the smog tech should be able to deactivate traction control by manually shutting off skid contol by pressing the button on the center console. Even with skid control off, dyno run could not be completed.
I consulted the Mitsu TSBs and found that 03 and 04 monteros actually have a skid control and traction control as 2 seperate systems. THe only way to shut off traction control is to pull the ABS fuse. See TSB 04-00-0017. Once the fuse is pulled the dyno run could be completed.
Apparently 03 and 04 monteros must be done this way for dyno runs.
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zadam123 |
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28th June 2009 - 07:56 PM Last post by: zadam123 |
I had my service engine soon light on so i took the 2001 montero limited to autozone and had the codes read i got
p0171 and p0174
171 reads .............
system to lean cylinders 1 - 4
causes are
ignition system faulty
fuel system faulty - injectors or pressure
vacum leak
engine mechanical conditon
174 reads.............
system too lean cylinders 2-3
causes are
ignition system faulty
fuel system faulty - injectors or pressure
vacum leak
engine mechanical conditon
does anyone konw what this actually means. or what the most common problem is?
also does anyone know where i can DL the 2001 montero limited manual?
thnks
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johvig |
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28th June 2009 - 11:27 AM Last post by: SRSONE |
Hello
Recently when applying brake, the hydraulic booster started making noise. This noise comes from the Power Brake Booster. My dealership has come with this part number MN116391.
I have hit this number in google but all replies are in russian or japanese. My dealer is charging me roughly 1,000.00 US in parts, and I feel this cost is expensive.
Has anyone have had to service and / or replace this booster? It seems to me that this p/n is for the whole booster. Is it possible to get parts and rebuild it istead?.
http://www.akadia.ru/_pages/mitsubis...x8YTI9PTAyMTAxIf I search MN116391 (p/n given by dealer) I get the above response, and it looks like the whole assembly. The vibration happens whenever I apply brakes, no matter how light I may brake. The noise and vibration comes from an accumulator like assembly, which is indicated as p/n 54243 54282B
Any help regarding this mater will be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Regards from Sunny Mexico
Joel
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Javier |
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28th June 2009 - 11:20 AM Last post by: SRSONE |
Can a 2002 engine fit on a 2001?
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tj90 |
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26th June 2009 - 12:05 PM Last post by: tj90 |
Hi all. I have an 03 monty and its time for smog inspection. The CA smog test requires a dyno run while the exhausts are monitored. I took it to 2 places and they both said that my montero traction control is activated and will not let the motor do the dyno run (the engine is automatically throttled back when accelerator is touched). The tech shut off the skid control button on the center console and the light illuminates indicating that its OFF. Traction control still engages however... Truck is verified to be in 2H so I know its not in AWD or 4WD mode.
Any ideas on why my traction control would be engaged even though its saying its OFF on the dash. The truck is performing correctly according to the manual - the skid control OFF button deactivates >50 mph and it can only be deactivated at a stop.
Id hate to have the traction control "fixed" just so I can pass smog. The manual says that button is for skid control and the manual never explicitely states that traction control can be turned off. Is it possible that the state is wrong assuming that traction control can be turned off? If it is genuinely stuck ON, I dont think that is a big deal. When I get home tonight Im going to try the following:
1) Jack the rear in 2wd mode and verify that traction control is really preventing rear wheels from turning.
2) Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. Try #1 again.
3) Pull ABS fuse which supposedly disengages traction control. Try #1 again.
Any other ideas or comments?
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kareem evo |
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25th June 2009 - 07:05 PM Last post by: kareem evo |
whenever im driving on a smooth surface at about 60kmp along my journey i encounter a shuddering noise coming from the left front wheel area as if you were driving over some cut line in the road whenever i drive on the ruff road its not notice any idea would appreciated mileage is about 180000km its is not a constant feeling only sometimes
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Javier |
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25th June 2009 - 02:32 PM Last post by: Ahaggar |
I tried searching for this but really did not find anything. I have a 3.0 v6 engine that is smoking and burning through all the oil in 2 days. I want to buy a used engine with good millage to replace this one. My question is what engine can i replaced it with. Will the 3.5 work with no issues or any other kind of engine. I want something that will just bolt up since this is my wifes car for her to go to work. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks
And i will end up rebuilding my current engine also.
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davall10 |
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25th June 2009 - 09:42 AM Last post by: davall10 |
Hello again,
I know my last question was about a filter related question, however, I was going to change the auto transmission fluid tomorrow and was researching it on here. I have found mention of a transmission filter.
Does mine have one? because if it does and its relatively easy to change I would rather do a proper job and change both.
1995 Pajero NJ 3.5 auto, the late model with the slightly different engine.
Any useful comments would be much appreciated. I have downloaded the transmission manuals but there are about six different ones and I have no idea which one is mine.
Thanks
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Guy968 |
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20th June 2009 - 06:17 AM Last post by: Guy968 |
I recently bought a Pajero IO 1999 (LWB, 1.8l, engine type 4G93 3A3S) in Australia.
Unfortunately it had a noisy cam which didn't respond to valve adjustment. To cut a long story short, it turned out that one of the Number 4 exhaust cam lobes was worn off, and beyond regrinding. (I gather this happens if the oil is not changed frequently enough.)
I thought my experience might be useful to anyone in the same boat:
In Australia, this is a relatively rare vehicle.
New camshaft (Mitsubishi) = AUD775, Roller rocker AUD88 inlet, 80 exhaust, head gasket AUD150, Timing belt approx AUD 90.
Camshaft and rockers shipped from Japan - 4 weeks!
Second hand cam - none found in Australia. Second hand cyl head - none found in Australia, second hand Engine - One in NSW (>AUD 1000).
I came accross a Lancer cam from a 1.8 with 4G93 engine (don't know which model, or year), which looked the same, and ULTIMATELY works.
The cam timing angles appear to be identical. Judging by the valve clearances after changing the cam, lobe heights are the same.
Differences: 1. Cam profile is very slightly different in terms of rise and fall rates of both inlet and outlet cams. 2. The lancer cam does not have an M8 female thread machined longitudinally into the back end (for electo-magnetic position sensor) 3. the cylindrical recess in the back end of the cam is of a smaller diameter on the lancer cam, and the pajero position sensor will not fit.
The good news is that 30mins of any machine shop's time can easily rectify 2 and 3, and the engine runs smoothly and quietly despite the different profiles.
For anyone who hasn't changed a cam in this engine type, here are a couple of things I found out the hard way!:
Replacemen parts you need: Camshaft, cam front oil seal, rocker arm(s) (if the roller is worn), cylinder head gasket, cylinder head coolant flange 'O'ring, +/- rocker cover gasket. Oil and filter. Some garages suggested I changed the water pump (- I didn't). Coolant (or additive)
Silicone gasket maker.
Some tips: (DISCLAIMER: DO ANY OR ALL OF THE FOLLOWING AT YOUR OWN RISK - I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR MISHAPS THAT OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT IS WRITTEN HERE, ERRONEOUS OR NOT)
Cam shaft is removed from the cylinder head back end, so (as far as I could see) can not be removed with the cylinder head in the car.
Cylinder head can be removed with both inlet and exhaust manifold attached (saves gaskets and almost certainly, time)
Remove:
Battery earth lead
Grille, radiator
all wiring loom connections to engine, air inlet pipe (both pieces between filter and throttle body, throttle cable
coolant connections from inlet manifold and baulkhead. spin washer bottle neck through 180 deg.
all vacuum connections from inlet manifold
Exhaust heat sheild.
3x exhaust manifold to downpipe nuts and 1x manifold bracket nut (just adjacent) (from under vehicle)
2x inlet manifold mounting nuts (under vehicle)
Rocker cover, both rocker shafts.
Check cam timing against crankshaft position, as per manual (link below), to ensure you are happy with all the refence marks/postitions. Remove cam belt sprocket (Right hand thread, block rotation of sprocket) and belt, cylinder head bolts (in correct order)
At the back of the cylinder head, there are 3 separate fittings you can feel: cam position sensor housing, coolant flange (with push-in pipe entering) and a small bracket securing the coolant pipe running to the inlet manifold). The first 2 do not need to be removed. The 3rd is undone with a 12mm spanner (1 bolt).
Remove any other obvious connections to the cylinder head/ manifolds I have forgotten about.
Cylinder head can then be lifted off (rear coolant pipe may stick in flange and required some ****ling).
The rear position sensor cover can then be removed from the head, and the cam slid out.
The Lancer cam needs machining (as above)
Clean up block and head with a flat scraper and degreaser. Check for flatness.
Fit position sensor to back end of new cam.
Fit cam with plenty of oil. Fit new front seal. Fit sensor cover with silicone gasket sensor.
Fit new 'O' ring to coolant pipe (back of engine) to engage with coolant flange at back of head.
Fit new (or reuse) exhaust downpipe gasket. Position head gasket. Oil cylinder head bolt threads.
Carefully refit cylinder head (being sure not to damage mating surfaces OR coolant 'O' ring.)
The remainder is the reverse of above. All torque settings in manual:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/11525718/4g93-Lancer-EngineI recommend fitting a new cam belt: instructions as per the manual. Use a long lever with 1/2" drive) for crank bolt (RH thread, block engine rotation by removing starter motor and engaging a screw driver in slots in flywheel (Not the starter ring teeth!))
Time the cam as per the manual.
Once it is all together, set valve clearances cold (easiest with spark plugs out)
Reconnect battery terminal. Refill coolant!. Check oil level.
Fire up, and run until thoroughly hot. Then stop.
Drain oil.
Reset valve clearances (They get bigger, I believe, when the engine is hot, so you will have to close them down more, and the engine gets quieter as a result).
Change filter, and refill with oil.
I changed coolant again (in case oil had got into the waterways during head-off, which might give an "oil swirl" in the coolant.)
Thats it!
(Only prob I had was with coolant 'O' ring at back of head: I hadn't changed it, and I split it putting the head back on. I was able to change it by removing the flange fitting from the head, and repaired it with some super-glue. I refitted it with some silicone gasket. No probs since.)
Result:
Car runs quietly and smoothly. Its a pleasure to listen too.
I possibly doesn't pull quite as well below 1500rpm (eg pulling out of a rolling junction in 3rd, but I'm not even sure!.)
Fuel economy is the same as before.
Cost:
Lancer cam AUD130. Machine costs? (Born by dealer)
Pattern Gaskets: Head AUD85, Rocker AUD15
Front seal AUD 5
Timing belt AUD 90
The remainder was sundries, and a few tools.
Time: Well prepared, this would take me a day. However, you will need the old cam out to measure up, if you need to machine a second hand Lancer cam to fit. This means the work has to be split.
I hope this is helpful to someone.... one day!
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nuuch |
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19th June 2009 - 06:47 AM Last post by: nuuch |
The other day when using the wipers on my 94 Montero they just stopped. Both front and rear wipers and washers do not work.
I have no power to the wiper motor or wiper switch plug in the colum.
I checked all the fuses under the dash and hood and all seem to be good.
Does anyone have a fuse box diagram for this vehicle, both under hood and under dash?
Any other help would be appreciated.
Nuuch
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speedevilus |
29 |
18th June 2009 - 10:15 AM Last post by: speedevilus |
Hi All,
I am Andy, live in Milton Keynes and as you guessed am new here, just bought a shogun Pinin limited addition which I really like and enjoy.
I do have a question though but please be gentle as I am new to this car.
I hear a squaky sound which I thought might be the brakes, took the front wheels off and realised pads are almost new and not worn at all. Went to the rear and can't figure out how the rear brakes work on this car. I am relatively mechanical and can do most things but the set up on this car was rather unusual so hopefully you guys can help me.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Andy
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jamesharvey |
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17th June 2009 - 01:43 AM Last post by: jamesharvey |
i purchased a 2.8 manual gearbox thinking it would fit a 2.5 manual (yes i no im stupid) but is there anyone out there who has one to trade or id take sensible offers on the 2.8, it had done 77000 miles
contact jim on 07823774873
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realthumbz |
1,877 |
15th June 2009 - 10:28 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
Hi guys
I'm having some issues with my recently acquired 1994 NJ 3.0 (6G72) Paj's auto transmission. By way of background, i've given it the mother of all services, so mechanically it's in excellent shape except for the tranny.....
Ordinarily the car performs very well. From time to time however I'll be in 'drive' and driving along at suburban speeds (40-60 kph) and push the accellerator and find the engine RPM increases, but the car's road speed does not, ie, the transmission feels as though it's slipping.
Accellerating harder will provide a little bit of 'driving force', however 'slipping' is the best way of describing what's happening, as I look for somewhere safe to pull over.
From the side of the road I can select reverse (which engages immediately it's selected), however when I select 'drive' again, there is no feeling of drive 'engaging', however if I then push/feather the accellerator a little, the transmission does eventually start to provide some weak 'driving force', with some continued slip, then after a few more seconds it seems to engage and normal drive seems to return. At this point I can even accellerate away with full power and there is no longer any slip evident at all!???!
After the first time this happened, I resolved to service and safely flush the transmission by a very very reputable transmission shop (I've known these guys for 10 years). These symptoms did not return for these guys, and they didn't return for several days, however as I was returning home from work this evening, the symptoms as described above returned.
There is plenty of spotlessly clean, rose colored oil in the tranny (first thing I checked.... yes... with the motor running), and the service guys said that while the old oil was dark, there was no metalic residue in the pan.
Yes it seems worse when the car is hot, and these symptoms have never occurred when the engine is cold. The engine's thermostat is a brand new aftermarket unit, and the guage always sits exactly on the half way mark.
Also, there are no nasty noises coming from the tranny, however when the engine is at operating temperature and I select 'drive', there is always a very slight delay before it engages (I know this is not ideal).
So.... please guys, feel my pain, and those of your with experience / knowledge in this area I'd very much appreciate it if you can shed some light on this...
cheers guys
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Blackknight |
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14th June 2009 - 07:23 PM Last post by: Blackknight |
Hello members,
I have a problem with my digital compass and need your feedback on this situation. When I bought my pajero I noticed that the compass was not as clear in showing the readings. I then changed the bulbs ( used a set from a mitsubishi saparro) and after installing them the readings were clearer. Now, I cannot see the readings in the daytime, only at night. My compass uses the two bulbs. What do you think could be the cause of this situation?
Share with me, please.
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Efhesu |
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14th June 2009 - 02:23 PM Last post by: Ahaggar |
Ki Ora, could anyone help, I have a pajero IO 2000 model that I bought as a non-runner. Was told that the ECU had burned due to faulty Trans computer. I have since bought another ECU and a Trans Computer, but vehicle will still not start. The starter motor will not kick in as if it's imobilised. Do these have an emobiliser on them, and what can I do to have it started. Or does the ECU need to be reprogramme, can anyone help put it into perspective please.
The previous owner had put it through diagnostic computer, and reported that the ECU has had it. I since took the ECU apart to find out that it had burned a hole through the circut board. Also the auto trans computer had corroded badly, and I guessed that this is what had caused the ECU to fail.
Anyway, as I've said above, have put another ECU and trans computer and still nothing. Not even turning over. I can hear pump working with fuel, but no start.
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shogun4u |
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14th June 2009 - 01:36 PM Last post by: shogun4u |
Hi, i have bought a shogun elegance 2006, 3.2 lwb. I need to replace the senors, will i have a problem removing transfer box. Also while working under it i have found that the diff have jambed and car wont come out of 4wd. ty xx
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dazza1 |
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13th June 2009 - 10:28 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
Hi All
Just bought a 2005 Shogun elegance yesterday, really pleased with it.......my first automatic vehicle!
I live in northern ireland, when the sat nav comes on it only shows two roads, now i know i live in a small country, but we do have more than two roads
How can i update the map on this, when it starts up , the display says NUVI before it comes on, i have no instruction manual etc etc............i have also discovered that there is a unit to insert a disc just below the glove box at the passenger foot well.....is this connected??
It all seems to work, just needs updated
Last question, suppose it would be impossible to play dvd s on this thing??
Sorry for the barrage of questions!!
Thanks
Darryl

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zadam123 |
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13th June 2009 - 03:55 PM Last post by: manybrews |
Hello , Im new here and was wondering if anyone can help me. I have a 2001 montero limited and my passenger side front abs sensor broke off when the mechanic tried to check out my hub ( he said it was rusted really bad and just snaped) I went ot another mechanic and had the hub replaced but he wanted over 340 for the sensor that goes in that hub. I did searches at junkyards for a abs sensor and nobody has one. Does anyone know where i can get one even if its aftermarked?
also I have tried to search for the manual for the 2001 montero limited and havent found a working link, does anyone have it or know whrere i can DL it?
thanks
adam
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fal130963 |
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13th June 2009 - 10:18 AM Last post by: Blackknight |
Hi all Shogun fans.
Re-post due to to no replies.
Please if anybody could help?
I have a 1994 Shogun and had the digital temperature meter on the dash.
I have bought a used digital compass and have fitted it. Seems to work as far as the temperatures inside and out and illuminates. Problem is the compass. It displays as it should but does not set. I have tried the 360 degree set-up procedure but no luck. When going through the set-up after pressing the S button it just keeps on scanning. After I switch of and re-start it flashes the N and S spectrum.
Have these things got additional sensors somewhere? If so where and how does the wireing go?
Please someone help me. I love my Shogun and want that compass to work.
Thanks Falco
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davall10 |
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12th June 2009 - 07:20 AM Last post by: davall10 |
Hello all,
I am going to pick up my first 4x4 on 11th June, a Pajero 1995 3.5 V6 with 215000kms on clock, most of its service history and just had timing belt done at 200000kms. I have downloaded the manuals from this forum and have decided to do all the following on it in the first couple of weeks myself as most of it doesn't look that difficult.
oil and oil filter change, radiator flush new coolant and thremostat, new spark plugs and ignition leads, transfer case oil, both front and rear diff oils, transmission oil, and I am going to fill up the various boots and joints with multi grease while there.
I am having a bit of difficulty finding instructions on how to change the fuel filter on this, and would appreciate some help. Bare in mind I am not that technically minded please. But the fuel filter only costs $16 and not to change it whilst doing the rest would be ashame.
Thanks for any help
The manuals I downloaded where for the Montero, but from what I have read in here I believe they are pretty much the same.
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csyyap |
258 |
11th June 2009 - 12:20 AM Last post by: Blackknight |
greetings again. my 1997 montero sport comes equipped with a 3 instrumentation cluster located on the top center of the dashboard. in between the battery and oil pressure gauges is a compass that usually illuminates when lights are engaged. unlike the two other gauges that use regular bulbs to illuminate them the compass appears to not have a traditional bulb. this is what was told to me by the car electrician. its not that i use this but it looks incomplete with two lit gauges on either side and the center blacked out. do i need to replace the whole compass? or did the electrician get it wrong and there exists a replaceable bulb somewhere inside? thanks
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13
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jcasaccio |
2,426 |
9th June 2009 - 04:09 PM Last post by: jrmdir |
Hello everyone-
I am having a hard time finding a forum that talks about newer Monteros. I wanted to know/find the procedure for replacing my spark plugs. I see that the plenum needs to be removed and just wanted to try and find a guide to the process. If anyone has insight, it's really appreciated!
Thanks!
Jack
Palatine, IL
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johnscarff |
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8th June 2009 - 07:11 PM Last post by: johnscarff |
Hey all,
I've just installed a nice new stereo in my 94 Montero LS. It went well and was surprisingly easy. Well I say easy but now my dash lights and running lights won't work. I'm thinking maybe I blew fuses or earthed the stereo to something I shouldn't have. Either way before I go pulling every fuse to find the right one.
Has anybody got any ideas?? or maybe a fusebox diagram. Mine are no help

the one in the engine bay is blank (print long gone) and the one under the dash has no cover (yay!! previous owner).
Any help would be much appreciated.
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1
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Mike2dr |
26 |
8th June 2009 - 06:37 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
My 1990 Montero V6 automatic 2dr speedometer reads okay up to about 60 mph. Above that speed the needle jumps up to over 125 mph. Anybody know what would cause this?
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wesley |
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8th June 2009 - 12:18 PM Last post by: wesley |
hi i have a 2003 shogun 3.2 auto which drives perfect until i try to overtake then it will rev right up and not want to change up or go through the gears, could anyone help or give me some advice to what the problem might be. thanks wesley
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2
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TUPPENNY |
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7th June 2009 - 08:10 PM Last post by: jrmdir |
As in the description above..this is just what they are doing when I use the remote key to unlock.
This doesn't stop until I'm able to get in shut the door and press one of the buttons down or activate the remote central locking..( which also sets the alarm with me in the car!!)
Can anyone help with a solution...PLEASE
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brandy |
48 |
7th June 2009 - 05:03 PM Last post by: Benckj |
Hi guys
I have a coolant leak in our 1996 Pajero recently had a reco engine fitted cost a arm & a leg but while engine was being done we replaced radiator with brand new replaced all hoses etc ( hose kit was about $600.00 on its own) any way need to do 800k for first service have done around 500 thought we might clock up remainder this weekend. Ever since we have had the Paj back from mechanic there has been a damp spot under the vehicle which disappears after vehicle has been sitting for a couple of hours thought it was just the air con drain, car has been sitting for about 12 hours when we checked it over there is green coolant on the ground not much but it is there had a look around engine seems to be a drip starting rather high up at the rear of engine not easy to see drips down on to starter is this the water pump at the rear of the engine? Wife said that when she was driving the other day it appeared to be hot air coming out vents but heater wasn't turned on don't know if this is related some how or not. Have holidays in a couple of weeks going to do a bit of travelling would like to get it all sorted. Will take back to mechanic on Tuesday (long weekend) but would like to use vehicle before then any suggestions?
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Mark Reyes |
50 |
7th June 2009 - 04:01 PM Last post by: Mark Reyes |
Hi all,
I am a Montero Virgin, and have no idea what years are the best to look for, and also avoid. I am curious how to find out what the differences are between all of the Montero variants, and what is the code for the LSD.
Also, what aftermarket support is there for these in the US. I live in Pompano Beach area. Does ARB make snorkels for these cars in the US, and where can I locate an auxillary fuel tank?
How does a Montero compare to a Toyota 4Runner? For those members that live in S FL, who is a Montero Guru in the area for repairs and service?
Thanks,
Mark
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rhysrobert |
131 |
3rd June 2009 - 06:34 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
I own a 2004 Diesel Pajero and the Air Cond smells very dusty when its on, does anyone know if there's a filter and if so how to clean it?
Thank you
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4
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davieh |
306 |
3rd June 2009 - 03:35 PM Last post by: Ex-Pat |
Recently, I've had none of the 4x4 lights working. Then randomly, one of the rear wheel green lights has come on, but not the other. I didnt engage the 4x4 or do anything abnormal for this to happen. I'm confident that my car is not disobeying the laws of physics and suddenly driving through one wheel.
I have since cycled through the 4x4 positions, and all of the orange diff lights come on, but no sign of the green ones. The car is physically getting into 4WD and Low range mechanically though.
Is there any instance when I should have no 4x4 green lights on, or are the rears always lit? At ignition, I get a flash of the centre diff light, but only the single rear green.
Any thoughts on my theories?:
1) Loose connection somewhere that blocked out the 2 rear green lights that should be constantly on + a blown bulb for the rear green that is not on
2) Problem with the box under the radio
3) Problem with a sensor under the car
4) Dodgy 4x4 ECU
5) Aliens
Cheers
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PureC4 |
22 |
3rd June 2009 - 02:58 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
Have a 2000 Montero Sport that the 4WD indicator light is blinking. Have tried just going ont and giving the system a good workout and that helped the last several times that this happened but nothing is working this time after several attempts. Does anyone know the part number for the switch on the transfer case? Or if it is a dealer part only?
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated
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michael |
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31st May 2009 - 08:22 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
Hi I lost the LCD on my pajero (2002) If I replace the fuse it all comes back on and lasts between 20 sec and 1.5 mins everything else is working ok I could go to the dealership but Im in Cyprus. We are both non smokers but have used the socket for the phone charger Thanks Michael
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Snuffy |
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27th May 2009 - 04:51 PM Last post by: Benckj |
Hi, I'm trying to locate a front oxygen sensor for a 1.8GDI 2000/01 pajero IO, Chasis:H76W, Engine:4G93. My vehicle is rough idling: revs falling to almost zero and then rising up to about 800rpm causing the engine to tremble and the mechanic thinks the prob is a faulty O2 sensor. Other probs include hard starting and a violent surge when i put the vehicle in drive. U can email me at asap13@hotmail.com
Thanks for any help, i'm getting desperate lol
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carpslayer |
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27th May 2009 - 09:39 AM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
hi there .I have a prob with me showy ,I have oil in my intercooler pipes ,i have had a recon turbo ,top breather pipe on crank cover seems to be a lot of oil round it ,I have also reconned the top of the engine which was the main prob of a oil leak i had originally,I have had the pressure checked on pistons etc and seems to be ok,The part that concerns me is the top breather when revved hard oil does come from breather and into air filter flow pipe,Cant think what else it could be any help is appreciated
thanks
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No Fuel
Just did a tune-up on 2000 Montero sport
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PureC4 |
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26th May 2009 - 07:40 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |

What the *&^% may I have done. Just finished doing a tune up and the Monty won't start. Acts like no fuel. Was running before the tune up, checked and re-checked all the connections to make sure I didn't leave one unplugged. Cant seam to find anything. Took it back apart and rechecked, still nothing. Just turns over and over, have good spark at the coil packs, wires are on right (marked them). What gives, please help got to get to work in the morning.

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kjones09 |
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26th May 2009 - 08:15 AM Last post by: kjones09 |
I need some advice on the best way to change the water pump on a 2000 Montero Sport. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!!
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csam |
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25th May 2009 - 09:36 PM Last post by: csam |
Will a 6G72, 3.0 liter engine from a 2-wheel drive 1998 Montero Sport fit directly into a 1991 LWB Montero? Are there major differences in the engine?
Would it be a direct fit?
If not, what modifications would be needed?
Is this an easy swap?
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