source :bigpaul
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/for...opic.php?t=3997

Mitsubishi 1999 Spacerunner & Spacewagon (RVR)
Note: Covers the 4G64 DOHC (2350cc) and 4G93 DOHC (1834cc) engines only so no turbo info here. Has General, Engine, Engine Lubrication, Fuel, Engine Cooling, Intake and Exhaust, Engine Electrical,
Engine and Emission Control, Clutch, Manual and Automatic Transmission, Propeller Shaft, Front and Rear Axle, Wheel and Tyre, Power Plant Mount, Front and Rear suspension, Service Brakes, Parking Brakes, and more.
http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Space-Ru...hop-Manual.html

Also found another one with 4G63 and 4G64 non turbo: http://indy.pp.ru/GDI/Docs/!Motor%20Re..._SERIES_E-W_WM/ (copy and paste link into your address bar)

Hello. I have a RVR yr.95 and last week the timing belt broke, damaging the engine.

I have changed the damaged parts and the car is running now.

However, i feel the engine rattling and with an odd sound and also the 3rd gear ( automatic) is not going in.

Someone told me to do the calibration of the Timing belt.

What does that mean and will that solve my problem?

Good Day, i just discovered this Forum and took the time to browse through the different posts. First off, i'm a Mitsubishi RVR owner for the past 4 or so years. Its a Mitsubishi RVR 1995 Model, Automatic Transmission 2.0L Non Turbo engine. In that time period, the Automatic Transmission broke down 3 times. Why did My parents choose the Mitsubishi rvr as their vehicle of choice while searching for a vehicle on the internet? My guess is as good as yours.

The Tell Tale signs of the Transmission problems are obvious. Occasional slipping of gears that becomes more frequent until driving is impossible. i noticed that the the transmission used to break down after long journeys across the country. Not just once but over a period of time. why? That i will explain in a bit.

I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but Common sense and research does alot.

The Problem? In my research, i've found out from a couple of webcites and RVR owners around the world, that the Automatic Gearbox made from 1993-1996 was defective. How? The Cooling Mechanism inside the Transmission didn't work/Right. Thus, the transmission fluid would not get sufficient cooling and would eventually loose value(Most fluids in Engines/Transmissions has to be changed regularly because of that). The RVR was a special case. because the Cooling was Minute, the oil would cook and cook,,,,and cook...until the value was so low that eventually the mechanisms inside the Gearbox would start going bad some faster than others..thus causing slippage of clutches etc.(i'm not familiar with all of the different parts inside the Tranny). In my case, the Transmission went bad faster. Why? I'm a motor sport entheusias. Thus, i love fast driving, coordinated driving, races etc. The RVR is Clearly NOT the suitable vehicle for all of that.

So what would happen, when i ran HARD for sometime without servicing the transmission(my fault), it would start giving problems, usually would overheat and start slipping but it would happen maybe after a long run that would get the transmission EXTRA hot. Thus i'd have to get the vehicle towed back home.

The Remedy? The first time the transmission went bad, my dad sent it overseas, got it rebuilt and it was sent back. it worked for about a year and a half then went bad again. This time after being off the road for 7 months,(source problems) i bought a used Transmission from a local used parts agent. worked like a dream for about a year den went bad AGAIN.(SIGH..)This time it stayed down for 8 Months and i used another vehicle to get around. Finally, after a long wait, a transmission repair kit i ordered came. Gave it to my Mechanic, he delayed a couple of months before fixing. I finally got the RVR a couple of Days ago. Works great. What caused the Transmission to give up this last time?

---->I had a small tear on my chassis so i took the vehicle in to a Nissan Suzuki Dealership(bad idea)..i worked there at the time. They had to take off the Engine and Transmission to weld the chassis properly(there's a bunch of novice young guys working as Techs there.). They did. after i was given delivery of the vehicle i had a whole bunch of problems. First, some wiring was done wrong so in driving when i was to DIP on the x, the vehicle would suddenly go into neutral or slip. That was fixed(mix up in wiring). Next, the engine was on a side and the heating mechanizm on the engine touched the radiator fan. i was told that i had a bad engine mount. so i payed no mind(couldn't get the mount at the time). 3 months after, on a long journey, i noticed that SUDDENLY the "A/T TEMP" warning light on the dashboard came on(my island is VERY mountainous). 10 minutes after, the transmission started slipping severly. i had to tow the vehicle back to my home(50 minutes away).

What caused the Transmission to suddenly go bad after just 3 months fresh out of the Nissan dealership?(they claimed they did not interfere with the transmission. they just took it off with the engine and placed it back) i found out TODAY after i did a journey. about 30 mins into the trip, the vehicle suddenly started smoking. i stopped, checked under the hood and saw some splatters of oil around the tranny/bottom pan area..so i just figured the oil got hot and steamed. A bit more driving and i looked in my rear view and saw a trail of smoke. I looked into my dash and there was that A/T TEMP warning light again!!!!!! What is going on!!!! Anyways i opened the hood, looked around it and guess what?? Neither of the 2 Radiator Cooling fans are spinning! BINGO! the Transmission had EVERY reason to overheat 8 months ago. I figure that was ANOTHER one of the problems from the dealership. the fans were not connected. Anyways at that point the gears were going hay-wire, so i think the ECU went into safe mode(happened to me once b4) i'm stuck in 3rd gear. I let it cool down and i finally made it home. (My mechanic should be coming a little lata to check on it)

There's my solition for now. Get the Fans fixed and flush the Transmission every couple months to keep it going. but i think i'm going to buy a Manual Transmission and end ALL of the worries. The RVR is a GREAT vehicle and i love it. Anyone who wants to buy one, they need to be aware of the Auto Transmission problem on the 1993-1996 models. Buying a Manual or even a Turbo is good. Stay away from the Auto Transmissions.

Oh...the solution to the engine being on a side? The NOVICE guys at the Dealership installed the engine mount UPSIDE DOWN 180 Degrees. so the two bolts for the engine was further forward, thus the reason the engine HAD to come forward to fit. They Rectified that problem yesterday.

I hope some of the info i gave will be meaningful to any of you guys who own RVR's and those contemplating buying.

Peace out

Shreddaz.

Here's the deal, I've got a 95 Expo that I'd like to upgrade the braking system on. Anyone know oft hand if there is any aftermarket manufacturers, or parts from other vehicles, that will work?

I noticed some black stuff and water or maybe oil coming out the back of my exhaust today when revved up.

Recently the RVR has been standing for about a month now and I have also noticed that the oil has been over filled on the last change by quite a lot .

Any ideas what the black stuff is and does anyone know where the sump drain is?

Cheers, Leon .

I managed to damage the front motor mount on my '92 expo (don't ask, please), and need to find a new one - cheap - would rather not go to the dealer. Google provides almost no solid leads on this item. I haven't started calling the local junkyards in Seattle, since the last time I tried that I found no expos in the local area. Any ideas? Anybody out there have one cheap they want to get rid of? Any PNW local know where the local pacific northwest expo junkyard is? Thanks for any help you might provide.

Hi, does anyone know the size of lug nuts I need for an rvr turbo?

Basically I've bought some original alloys for my rvr but the after-market alloys fitted have just nuts holding them on so now I need some lug nuts and a locking one for each wheel.

Any ideas?

i've changed the fuel cap and fuel filter,no help.when the pressure builds up it makes a humming noise,it goes away when the cap is removed.(it is hot here 105f )....thanks for the help...taz...

I have a 93 RVR Z which has a small light behind the glove box . This seems to flash constantly ( except today ! ) and at a regular interval .I took it into the garage today and they connected the diagnostic computer and as above the light didn't flash and the computer says there is no problem at all . Any body got any brilliant ideas ? Thanks , Malcolm NZ

Hi All,

This week my son's 1992 Summit Eagle developed a cracked bell housing this weekend. The car (engine, drive train, and all accessories) has 113K miles. We don't believe fixing the car is in our best interest; replacing just the bell housing without doing any other work probably isn't worthwhile; we don't have the energy right now to do a deep dive. But being from Colorado (Fort Collins) the body is straight and everything is rust free. There is only some body molding pieces missing and the interior is very useable. So we're in the a orthongonal position as the other EXPO parts car that is listed below (good body but crummy drivetrain). We too are trying to find a good home before taking the car to the junkyard. To bad we're not closer to the other car as someone could probably put the two together and wind up with reasonable transportation.

If anyone is interested please drop me a line at glgarlow@msn.com

Thanks

Greg Garlow

P.S. The car isn't roadable (the bell housing just spreads at the crack instead of disengaging the clutch); but is rollable.

Hi anyone know where i can get a towbar to fit this model in the uk i have searched everywhere i know, the only place i can find one is in Newzealand but that company said they cant import one to me in the uk this is now proving to be a nightmare the chassis model is N74w does anyone know uf this chassis is used on any other mitsubishi model any help on this would be much appreciated thans Darren

Hi All long time since I have been here but back now

I have finaly finished my Open Gear





but I did have some chrome mirror covers but I have lost them dose any one have any to sell please email me sjm@ukf.net

any commets please I wll be pleased to hear


Cheers


Steve

Hi

I have got a 1995 RVR Sports Gear 4x4 petrol 2L turbo. As I have not got the owners manual can anybody tell me how much oil it takes. Am about to change oil + filter.

Thanks

I have a '94 Expo awd (2.4) that I need to have hauled off to a scrap yard in the next week or so, but would rather have it go to someone who can use the parts. Items of interest
are: head with valve job and new camshaft less than 20 k ago; new dist. with less than 10 k; rebuilt ps pump; new transfer case at 100k: rebuilt 5 speed also at 100 k ( car has
approx. 130 k ). Car is a non-runner but rolls so it can be easily loaded on a trailer.

I also have 3 volumes of the factory shop manual (all but trans) and a few new parts for sale (engine mounts). If this is of interest to you, please e-mail Mike at psks555@hotmail.
com

Hi, could anyone suggest a good set of tyres for a 1995 RVR supersports gear turbo?

In the UK we are quite limited with the 215 65 15r size so if you know of any exporters do let us know

I have seen that some of the RVR have ground effects kits and heard rumors there is a place in Japan that specializes in aftermarket parts for the RVR, but it is an Japanese only site. I had looked into a place out of Australia also that could export to the USA, but the cost of shipping was twice as much as the parts themselves.
I know the 95-99 eclipse is 172.2" long, 68.3" wide and my 3 door Wagon/Van is 168.5" long, 66.7" wide, how hard would it be to make and eclipse/talon ground effects kit bumper/side skirts fit on the van?

hi im new to this i have a 94 spacerunner 1.8 16v auto and i want to do the timing belt ive asked a few motor spares shops 4 a timing belt kit for it but they av only got the belts so do i need to change the tenshior and also is it a easy job as ive only worked mainly on transits thanks 4 any help gavin

Hi all,
my name is Kenny and i m new to this forum.Firstly i recently brought a 95" rvr sport gear /turbo and i got few question want to ask.

1.Will the temperature/compass/clock light up when u turn on the light ,because is very hardly can see during the night time.if it does which fuse does it connect to? or how to get it back working?


2.After a short drive from home to a supermarket (10mins), when i finish shopping i jump on the car and start it, there are two dash lights stays on after the engine started,
one is the battery and the other one is "A/T TEMP" and it will go after after 5 mins or so.


3. How can i turn on the light on the back bumper? i see bulbs inside but i just don't know how they can be switch it on!


4.Also there a button on the side on the turn signal switch, just wonder what does it do?when i press it it doesn't seem like doing anything.



i know some question is very stupid but if any one can give me a hint on what is happening/what is it that would be awesome:)
thanks
Kenny

Hi guys

I have a problem with my 92 expo.

1. dash lights dont always work. They work when they like to and when I turn my headlights on, it always goes off and never come on. From that point on it works when it feels like. Does that mean I have a short somewhere in the system or do I just change the dash light bulbs and I will be fine?

2. Problem with driver side automatic selt belt. It DOESNT WORK. The passenger side works.
On the driver side, I dont hear the motor working and the track where it buckles to is freely moveable which means that I can move it forward and backwards on the whole track.

NEED HELP PLEASE

The sound is like the compressed air rushing out from plastic can. It is from under hood. The brake works fine. the sound was heard once when car was slow down to the red light by releasing gas padel without brake, and was last until brake was applied. When the window is opened, the sound is loud enough so that it can not be ignored.

Hello, I've been reading through many old posts, and there is a lot of great information here, but unfortunately have not found a solution to my problem.

Summary:

1992 Mits. Expo
2.4 L automatic transmission.
174,000 miles.

I was driving about 50MPH when all of the sudden the vehicle acted as if it went into neutral. There was no clunks or other strange noises, and the transmission had not been having problems previous to this. I coasted to a stop, and tried cycling the shift lever through all of the gears including reverse, with the same outcome. The engine starts and runs fine, but I have no gears at all.

I towed the vehicle home and have tried the following with no success.

1. Checked the fluid level.
2. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter.
3. Checked the problem codes using a voltmeter. Am getting a 32 which is faulty MAP sensor. I thought it probably had nothing to do with the transmission, but decided to replace it anyway. When I went to the parts store, their computer says that there is no MAP sensor on a 1992 Expo?
4. I aslso found some information about reading the trouble codes for the transmission by placing the voltmeter across pins 12 and 6. I am getting a constant readout of quick pulses which indicates no code present.
5. Removed valve body and cleaned and verified operation of all the spring actuators.
6. Checked fuse for Transmission Control Unit.

I did read somewhere that the inhibitor switch can cause this, but don't know how reliable this is, and how to test it.

I am pretty much out of ideas, if you have any please respond.

Thanks,

Jason

Hi

Kwik-fit in the UK are doing a £45 aircon gas & lubricant recharge at present. Cooler air-conditioning or your money back guarantee.

Only hitch is your car has to be on the system in store, if not you need to be able to tell them the weight of gas for your car. SOOo...

Does anybody know what the weight of gas should be for a 93 2 litre diesel rvr??

I'm sure they will ask me something else next time I go as well, so if any other bits of info you think I need then please let me know.

Hopefully this info will help some folks get a cheap recharge before this imaginary heat wave hits us

Hello I'm new & need help. Know nothing about cars! Typical girl!

I have 1993 K reg RVR. 2 litre exceed auto. In UK.

I have read through the other posts & asked at a garage but get confused

1st: I have no coolant whatso ever, what type should I be using? Have been driving about for a while without any, am i going to have problems when i finally do it?

2nd: Oil 10/40??? I saw a post where someone said it was fine to use, but also saw 5/???? mentioned.
Is it ok to go from one type of oil to another as I have no idea what the previous owner put in & need to top up?

3rd: Tyre pressure I was told by a mitsibushi garage to go 32psi in all tyres, but he said that was just a guess.

4th. How do i get it through the MOT? The emmissions are supposedly high & it kicks out black smoke, put a fuel cleaner in the diesel which seems to have helped, but was wondering if something like that would be good enough to get it through the MOT?

Any help would be great. Thanks

the light is changing from dim to bright. the indicator is not ON when driving.

Where is the starter located? Underneath the engine?

The car can not start. Turn the key to "start", I can hear a short clicking sound from somewhere, parking indicator is off. However, no crank sound, the headlight does not dim either. Replace the ignition switch, no help. Doubt Starter Solenoid is broken.

Hi guys,
I'm new at the forum, so before anything is a pleasure make part of.
I'm having a problem with my RVR, the left break light is going off every time I use the break.
For exemple if the night lights are on, when i break the break light and the night light turn off, if the night light is not on the break light just don't goes off.
It's not fuses and i have no ideia what it can be, please if some one have ideia what it can be, please help me.
Thanks you all,
Icaro

I have MD311121 ecu and wondering what injectors the N23 has: 240cc or 275cc.
So, what are the cams duration for N23 4G63? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

hi,

what is the recommended spark plug for RVR 94 4G63 Non-turbo DOHC? According to the Space Runner manual it is NGK BKR5E-11. However, I tried this plug but it doesn't fit very well on my spark plug cable. The cable hole is bigger than the spark plug.

My old plug is bosch W78. It fits well but I think heat range is too cold causing my plugs black (coated with carbon).

Is there any effect of using a plug that does not fit well on the cable? I tried running the engine and it seems its ok.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Hi all,

May I know the part number of the the stock MAF sensor for a RVR 94 4G63 Non-turbo A/T? Im suspecting that I am not using the stock MAF that is why im running rich. Current MAF installed is 449 (E5T05371).

alright i hope to not waste ya'lls time by posting a silly question so here i go. I live on the island of grenada were all vehicles go to die. I had one fuel injector go out on my 96 RVR 16valve dohc and the only replacement i could find was 275cc injectors mine were 240cc. instead of just having one oddball injector i replaced them all with the 275's. is there any thing else i need to do like increase spark plug gap or find a high airflow filter. please let me know what yall think

I have an rvr 2.0TD sport gear, engine has siezed and could do with a replacement or may consider breaking if enough interest.

I've pulled the timing cover apart, read up and now understand how to set the oil pump balance shaft timing, read up on how to set the tension on both belts (and stand a chance of getting that right) - but I'm considering going one step further. I have a very small amount of oil coming out of the front seal (no drips on the floor, but oil around the general area under the timing cover and on the oil pan), and figure I should consider replacing that seal while I'm in there. Questions, please...

1. It looks like I need to gin up a special tool to bolt to the end of the crank timing belt gear to hold it in place while I remove the crank bolt. Is that what the pros do - use a special tool, holding it in place with 2 of the crank pulley bolts? Or...

2. Am I asking for trouble - should I instead leave the seal alone until it really starts leaking? The motor has 180K, runs like a top, burns a quart every 2500 miles, and I want to give it a good chance to make it the next 60K (even though I probably won't be the owner then).

Thanks for any help you experts can provide.

Dave

Hi

I have a 1995 Mitsubishi RVR Sports Gear automatic 4x4 petrol turbo. The battery appears to be overcharging (its starting to weep). Most likely problem is faulty alternator or voltage regulator. Can anybody tell me if the voltage regulator is positioned internally or externally of the alternator.

Thanks

Hello out there, I have a 93 EXPO Wagon(colt vista wagon) AWD that I've encountered a drive train vibration/noise issue.
It's 2.4 liter w/automatic transmission with only 145,00 kms. Everything is fine until I reach a speed of 90 klic's/hr a vibration/humming noise starts
and gets a little worse above 100 and stays even up to 120. I dropped the drive shalf to fine the rear universal joint just about ceased
and the front one very tight. I replaced both universal joints. At the same time I lubed the center joint just after the hanger bearing.
Put everything back together and went for test drive. It was a little better but still had the vibration (very subtle) and the humming noise was still
there. I replaced the hanger bearing (dealer part). It seemed to be much better for about a week. Now it's back. I suspect the center joint
(CV joint) is the cause. I removed the rear section of the drive shaft and left the front part in place. Now I'm running in FWD only and there's
no vibration/noise at all, even at 110 to 130 kms/hr. But, I'm still not certain if it's the cv joint or may something in the rear diff.

Any suggestions/help would be much apreciated. I checked the price for the center CV and it's over 500$ CAN. Both I go further, I wait to see if any of you
have a better suggestion.

I do all my own repairs on several vehicles.

Thanks, Bert.

Hi, I own a 96 Eagle Summit AWD 5 spd 3dr van (same as the 3 dr Mitsubishi RVR). I bought the van from a guy that use to post on here in NC, watchdoc, last fall. He used the van for off road rally racing, and did the current suspension. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding and Turbocharging the engine 4G64.

Forged Manley Rods
Forged Manley Pistons 8.5:1 comp ratio
TDO6-20g Mitsubishi Turbocharger (you aren't fitting anything bigger in with stock fans, trust me)
SS punishment racing O2 housing externally gated/recirculated
Tial 38mm external gate w/10 psi spring (break in/tune, eventually I want to get 18-20 psi)
Balance shafts eliminated
FIC 650 injectors
STM Fuel Lab afpr set up
255 lph fuel pump
DSM injector resistor pack
2G turbo manifold tapped for egt
Toyota Supra TT side mount intercooler
DSM 1g bov crushed
ARP head studs + cometic gasket
Having a 10an fitting welded to the stock 4G64 oil pan
Apexi Neo SAFC (went with this because it has more settings than safc2)
Wideband O2
OB2 pocketlogger for tuning
DSM MAF intake pipe
Battery relocation kit (had to move battery, air cleaner/maf fit in this location along with upper intercooler pipe)
Act 2100 pressure plate w/ South Bend Full Kevlar face disc
J&S ultrasafeguard (for knock control/timing retard)
SS oil feed line
Custom downpipe/exhaust will need to be made
Misc. bolts, gaskets, odds and ends
I'm sure there are things I forgot to put in here I have

I'm only wanting around 400 hp out of the build and from my research the sohc 16v head should support this, any higher I will have to switch to the dsm dohc setup along with bigger injectors.

The engine is ready to be assembled, currently waiting on my balancing job (which was suppose to be done yesterday), supposedly it will be done by tomorrow evening.

Current plan is to put the engine back in naturally aspirated for the break in period, bolt on the parts needed for turbocharging afterwards. I want to make sure the actual engine build is right before applying boost.

So,

I took my Expo on the first road trip after intalling the new engine. Everthing worked great, The milage was great too, close to 30 mpg when is impressive for a 2.4 L.

This mording I stated the car and drove for a block and the engine light came on. I immediatly pulled over and checked the engine oil.

I was ALL GONE !!! Not a drip on the dip stick.

So I refilled it agine, and it seems fine.

I've been driving in town this last month and didnt notice the engine loosing oil.

In my road trip we avarage 65 MPH and for abour 60-70 miles I was doing above 75 mph. Toatal trip was about 550 miles.

Is it possible I'm loosing engine oil in high raves?

If so why? What should I do next?

Hi

I am new to this site. Bought a RVR and seems to be one of a hand full in South Africa. I need to get the fan belt for the Aircon but have a nice Japanese written catalog. The old one was removed. Please help maybe with a site were I can download the basic manual for this car. I cannot pay dollars or pounds for this as the exchange rate is real bad. Thanks Fredsel

i have recently purchased a mitsubishi rvr and it was about 6 weeks ago when i looked under the bonnet for fuses, that i saw the rad cap was perished so i went and bought a new rad cap and then that opened up a whole can of worms it seems that the new cap is causing it to overheat, and it now seems i have a big problem, as soon as i turn the engine over the water is shooting up to the radiator cap, the whole system is pressurising as soon as the engine is turning over.

is the headgasket gone or could it be a water pump problem any advice would be great.

another problem ive come across is the engine is not turning over from the key but if i bypass the key and use a high guage wire to the starter and then to the battery it will turn over and pressure up the pipes, i have carried out a pressure test and it held pressure ok. does anyone know what relays control the starter

thanks

So I'm trying to change the thermostat, when I took the thermostat (upper radiator area) enclosing i didnt find a thermostat. Most past stro are selling thermostats that are too big to fit in. Anyone experience this before?

This is ther thermostat recomeded my the dealer and other auto parts. But it is too big and wont fit in.

When I traveled on the interstate in my 1994 Mitsubishi Expo, I noticed that my engine was spinning at 3000 RPM for 70 MPH. Is this normal? Cause its half way to red line If not what might be wrong with it?

Thanks

Max

Looking for a TPS ( Throttle Position Sensor) for my 1994 Mitsubishi Expo. I was told that only 93 and early 94 modles TPS will fit.

Thanks

Max

[attachment=9814:HPIM2913.jpg][attachment=9814:HPIM2913.jpg]Well

I just baught a 1994 Mitsubishi Expo with a ruined engine.

The first engine I bought was listed wrong and I got the 1992 Mitsubishi Expo Engine.

So now I'm stuck with a wrong engine and need to sell it to make up the price I bought it.

It is the 4G64 12 valve engine.

I'm selling it for the $500 OBO which is 150 cheaper than what I bought it for. So I'm loosing my shipping cost.

As you can see from the pics it still on the Pallet. The zip code the engine is at is Nampa, Idaho 83687

I prefer to do transaction through Paypal.

Please email me if you are interestedat: maxevo@gmail.com

Hi

I have a 1994 RVR Sports Gear automatic. Can anyone recommend where I can locate a catalytic converter for it in the UK.

Thanks

Hello everyone,

Recently I've bought an old mitsubishi Space runner 2001 2.0i - 136hp. Everything was OK with the car when I drive it at low rpm - about 1500-3000, but when It hits 3000 rpm and above the "check engine" light turns on and two of the cylinders stop working. When I turn off the engine and start It again everything is OK and "check engine" light is off. It happens at any speed or gear once It hits 3000 rpm (and keep rpm at about 15 seconds). The computer says that It is crankshaft sensor so I change the sensor, but the problem remains. I also change the coils, but situation is the same. I would appreciate any help and advise.

Thank you,
P. Ivanov

I have a 1996 2.0 DOHC Turbo Petrol RVR Automatic --- the manual says to use 10w-30 motor oil but I can't readily find it here in the UK except Halfords which says it's for a motorcycle. Can I use this or should I used something else, maybe 5w-30 or 10w-40?

I would like to just take this oportunity to wish everyone a Merrry Christmas and to thank everyone for being so pleasant and sharing thier ideas and knowledge with us over the past year(s). This has made my job very easy and rewarding to see the benifits from this coroperation. The other forum sections are envious as they have a fair share of problems that I never see. Thank you for your consideration and have a safe & enjoyable holiday.

Jim

PS: Please feel free to add some comments on what your holiday plans are.

I am going to Fiji to host a family re-union for my NZ family and relations from Chicago and Perth, Australia. I am also meeting up with a car club member there to distribute parts and help him tune his car while on the beach.

does anyone have any suggestions for expo mod's? i haven't been able to find(though i've not been going crazy about it) any info on parts specific to the expo,
i guess because it's old and no longer in mitsubishi's usa line-up. like most of us,
i'm interested in simple intake and exhaust mod's, and also some suspension tweaks, though i'm afraid i won't be able to find heftier sway-bars. i wouldn't mind some sportier, rallye-type struts and possibly raising the whole thing a couple of inches. granted, not what a rallye-wannabe needs for handling, but with all the pot holes and road construction going on around here, and in the absence of any kind of skid plate, two or so inches would help a great deal. y'all should see my oil pan w/ all its creases and dents and all the scratches on the engine cross-member....anyway, any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I tried checking the fuel pressure on a RVR 94 4G63 non-turbo engine. When I started the car it seems the pressure are normal around 40psi (~38 psi based on manual). I tried the procedures in the service manual, removing vacuum lines from Fuel pressure regulator gives around 47 psi. I cant determine if the fuel return hose has pressure in it.

The only thing I noticed is that when I turned off the engine, the pressure gradually drops. Although it does not drop that fast that it is still in ~38 psi after 2 mins. However, after leaving it for about an hour, the pressure drops to almost zero. Is this normal? Also, starting seems not a problem just need to crank it for at least 3 seconds. I still need to observe from cold start though since this is my first time to connect a fuel pressure guage.

HI
Ive just attempted a replacement of a cam belt , water pump and all idlers tensioners on a 20,lt DOHC 1996 4G63 rvr without any manual ?? ( errr) , i also replaced balancer shaft belt and tensioner.
I was a bit stumped with the cam belt tensioner ? ive guessed you pretension the belt with the concentric idler /tension wheel , tighten its bolt ,then remove the pin on the tensioner ??? i couldnt quite figure how or why the 2 tensions ?
My problem is after what i thought was a carefull job i have vibration i didnt have before ? im pretty sure i aligned all marks and wheels correctly ?
It may be when i removed the engine mount and let engine down a bit it may have messed up other engine mounts ??
apart from that it goes better than ever , just vibrates more ??
Has anyone correct details for doing cambelt job and how to tension belt correctly , also balancer shaft details .

worried i will have to do it all again , cheers
Richy