source :bigpaul
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/for...opic.php?t=3997

Mitsubishi 1999 Spacerunner & Spacewagon (RVR)
Note: Covers the 4G64 DOHC (2350cc) and 4G93 DOHC (1834cc) engines only so no turbo info here. Has General, Engine, Engine Lubrication, Fuel, Engine Cooling, Intake and Exhaust, Engine Electrical,
Engine and Emission Control, Clutch, Manual and Automatic Transmission, Propeller Shaft, Front and Rear Axle, Wheel and Tyre, Power Plant Mount, Front and Rear suspension, Service Brakes, Parking Brakes, and more.
http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Space-Ru...hop-Manual.html

Also found another one with 4G63 and 4G64 non turbo: http://indy.pp.ru/GDI/Docs/!Motor%20Re..._SERIES_E-W_WM/ (copy and paste link into your address bar)

Mitsubish Expo LRV manuals

http://67.42.80.195/lrv.htm

For Sale, Must pay for actual shipping charges. PM me

I've got a 2.0 4wd turbo sports gear. An english language manual I've got says the tyres should be 215/65 R15 96S; the vehicle is fitted with 215/65 R15 100H: is this overkill? I need new tyres and only do about 3000 miles a year. Any advice?

Hi

I have a 1995 RVR SportsGear 4x4 Turbo.

Would anybody have any idea what the part number for the rear brake calipers are?. Mine are so badly rusted unable to read anything off them?

Thanks.

Does anyone make larger sway bars for these wagons?

Do the 7 passenger wagons come with larger/stronger sway bars?

So I finally finished my Summit (aka Expo or Vista in US) and took it to the track:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hP-x76mXHNY

I ran a couple of 12.4 on stock Eclipse turbo. In a vew hundred miles I will swap in something bigger and then real fun will start.

Anyway, enjoy the video .

Now is there a performance oriented forum for these vans?

Hey all,

I am located in NYC (queens) and was wondering if anyone wanted a parts Expo. The car turns on just fine, but the transmission has gone to crap, so the car won't move. If anyone needs parts or wants to buy the whole parts car, let me know. A transmission shop that I refuse to deal with anymore wanted to buy the car for a ridiculously low amount, and I know I could get more for the whole car, or parting it out. Let me know what is needed and I can work something out.

Currently what is taken off/out of the car are all the light bulbs, stereo system, alarm, and battery.

If someone wants to buy the car for $500 firm, and have it towed, all you would need is to throw in a battery and a new transmission, and the car will be fine. Recently put on new shocks and struts, and brand new tires, and that alone was over $1000 installed. There is about 105k on the body and original motor, so let me know

Quickest response will happen if you contact me by email: kidcam@nyc.rr.com (subject line: 1994 MITSUBISHI PARTS CAR)

This car has to go soon, so hopefully if anyone needs this, they will see it in time.

Thanks,
Cameron

HI, can anyone tell me if the compass and clock should light up at night when the cars lights are on, and if so is there a switch that enables this, or which fuse is it on, (mine is a jap import, and so only jap writing on fuse cover) . How do you get into this assembly which is mounted on top and centre of the dash, Thanks in advance Gerry

Hi, I've got a 1992 RVR. For the past 2 weeks I've got a problem with the ABS, it runs all the time and I can't let my battery plugged because the ABS is emptying it ( I already had to change the battery because of it). The orange ABS light is on but the brakes and everything else in the car is working perfectly. So I guess it's because there is no feedback coming back to the ABS sensor.
Does anyone already have the same kind of problem? Some ideas to fix it?

Thanks a lot

I had an A/C belt fail. When it did my timing belt jumped a tooth. I don't run a cover. I decided that while I was in there resetting everything I'd change the front crank seal too. Well, everything looked fine and when I got it all back together it ran fine but now I have a whine. I have disconnected the accessories and water pump. All I'm running is the timing and balance shaft belts. So it can only be the three tensioner pulleys right? I loosened the balance shaft pulley to the point it wouldn't spin with the car running. That wasn't it. I replaced the Idler pulley and the tensioner pulley with one's from other engines. It still whines. I don't know what else it could be. Everything is assembled as it should be. What did I do?

I had the misfortune to have a distributor replaced. They replaced it with a re manufactured one. This distributor cap will not sit down on the distributor body. I noticed that around the screw holes there is a raised portion. Since the edge of the cap is flat, this material holds the cap from sealing or sitting down flush with the edge of the distributor and sealing the unit. It looks to me that when they re-poured the screw holes they did not grind off the waste from the pour. Is there suppose to be a standoff or is this a manufacturing error?

Hi

Just got my yearly road test on car and it has failed as the bushes on the rear anti roll bar need replacement. Does anybody know what size these bushes are as I hope to get Polyurethane ones. Car in question is a 1995 RVR SportsGear 2L automatic petrol turbo (Jap Import).

Thanks

I have a 1995 jap import RVR SuperSport petrol Turbo automatic. One of my front shocks is leaking and needs replacing. Are there any good after-market replacements available? If not does any other of the mitsubishi models fit the RVR? Car has just failed its NCT ( am based in Dublin so this is same as UK MOT) so need to get these asap. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, my car has been idling high and now cutting out randomly when driving.

The mechanic who came out plug it in and said the MAF sensor has died.

Does any know what the part number for it is? My car is a RVR 4g63t 1994 (or M reg 1995 UK )

I'm gonna try and get one of ebay. I've been told I can get one off a evo 2 engine.

Cheers, Leon.

I have a 94 expo, 2.4l, auto. Several months ago, the wife drove it to work. She stopped at a stop sign, looked right and left and stepped on the gas pedal, but the car didn't move. No noise, nothing. She had the car tow to a Coleman Taylor transmission shop. They told her that the planateory shaft or gear broke,the car gave no notice or made and noise When we got the car back, the problem was that the car would roll forwards when in park. They fixed that problem but the car then rolled backwards in park. It would not shift correctly. It would slide into gearing instead of shifting. long story short they finally rebuilt it again and replaced the valve body. During this process, they called me to tell me that car was ready but it would now not run. They road tested it and it would go for a couple of miles and then quit. If let to cool down, it would start up and drive a few miles but quit. They towed it back to the shop and explained that they thought that the problem was with the distributor because it seemed really hot. They replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one (90 day special). The car drove fine. the transmission shifted instead of slipping into gear etc. The wife drove it one rainy day, and the motor quit running. I looked under the hood and could see the distributor arching. I noticed that the cap and the body did not fit together properly. I changed out the plug wires, cap and rotor, but that cap did not fit the distributor. After researching the cap and body I noticed that the screw hole area of the distributor was raised and the cap was not recessed to accept the difference. The problem seems to be that when they rebuilt the dist they refilled the screw holes and the mold made a mound of material that should have been grounded off to make the top lip level before being issued. So finally to the present problem, driving down a hill a let off of the gas and let the car carry itself down the hill. Then, I stepped on the gas pedal and the car chocked, stumbled, and died. It restarted and died again. I thought fuel filter. and had it replaced. didn't fix the problem. New plugs didn't fix , gutting the cat, didn't do it. new 02 senors, cleaned the throttle body new fuel pump replaced the replaced the mass air control, the throttle control works properly. I have no way to check the fuel pressure yet. when the car warms up it idles fine, but stumbles when given gas until it catches up with itself. 800 through 1000 rpms. The check engine light has been on for years, and went out when I replaced the wires, rotor, and cap. Could the offset of the cap and distributor body have caused the initial problem. It was a cold and wet day when it quit. It would seem to be more electrical than gas help anyone.

I have a 94 expo 2.4l. I need to find and check the ECU on this model. I think it is mounted on the passenger side behind the glove box and mounted to the fender, or is it inside the console between the driver and passenger behind the seat belt or is it in front of the transmission selector?

In my never ending search to find out why my 2.4l expo will not run correctly , I have taken the throttle control sensor off. While unscrewing it from the the throttle body and worrying more about losing the screws I let the TCS body loose and it jumped/moved from spring tension. I didn't know about the spring tension upon it. How does it correctly go back into place.

I am running out of options. I need to find a left (DS) grill support, it is a plastic piece that goes under the headlight. Must be from 92-94 wagon.

Color does not matter.

Everyone seems to have the grill, but not the support for it .

Please let me know what you have!

Thanks,

After connecting my trailer, with lights, my indicators no longer operate, however the harzards still do work. Could it be the relay?

Hello all, I need help. I've got 3 Expo's a 94 and 2 95's all 4G64 powered. I've got one with idle surge to about 1500 rpm. I've seen a lot online about testing the round iac motors but little to none on testing the Expo and Galant sohc brick type iac. Does anyone know the testing procedure? I've got a service manual and it only talks about testing the harness not the actual iac itself. There are six terminals across the plug. I can get an ohm reading across the first two but the rest don't read anything. I have three of these iac's and have tested all of them. Their gears are intact and they are not carbon fouled. They all read the same. Are they all bad or am I doing something wrong? These things push 350.00 dollars new. That's my last choice. Suggestions? I'm considering block off plates and such. Thanks in advance.

hi people,is this the right place to post? im no good at this sort of stuff.
id appreciate alittle guidance if you could help please.
i recently changed the head gasket & water pump on my father in laws 1.8 rvr 1995 .car. on putting it back together, i think i have a timing problem.
i have scanned the net for a down loadable manual for the 4g93 engine, but as yet had no look at all.
could anyone send me a link to reliable working manual please.
many thanks daryl.

Hi, I'm looking for a replacement door handle (outer) for the sliding door of a 1996 Space Runner (UK)
I've searched the breakers yards local to my area and Fleabay with no luck as yet, anybody know where I could find one?
Many Thanks
Phil

Hi guys new here and after a bit of info on my car plz

Its a 1999 RVR 2.0 turbo X3 now im sure its a evo 5 engine with a td04hl-15t turbo, now im needing a new clutch and turbo rebuilt as im aiming for a bit more power

Is the ecu and injectors the same as the evo 5?
Wheres best to buy a new clutch in uk?

Im looking at doing the evo 5 turbo, manifold and front mount swop has anyone had any major probs with this?

cheers

ps also if anyone has any of the above parts just let me know

Hi. I am a new member and are desperatley looking for help. I drive a RVR Exceed GDI with N61W frame and 4G93 engine. When I got the car it was running fine engine wise although not very economical, about 9km/l. About three months ago I noticed that the car was starting to loose power especially on uphill driving. i changed the transmission fluid as best as I could and the engine oil and fitted a new oil filter. This seemd to help for a while. Last month however the car started acting funny. I do a lot of mountain pass driving and the car all of sudden started to jerk furiously when I drove uphill and it would not rev above 4000 rpm, the engine warning light on the dash came on.
When I lifted my foot to drop the revs the car stopped jerking and the warning light went off again. I eventually made it through the mountain pass at a much lower speed as the car started jerking everytime it changed down a gear and the revs went above 4000 rpm. I thought it might be transmission fluid and topped up the gearbox with atf at a service station. When I drove off the car was OK again and would rev up all the way to red line without a hassle.

About 200kms into my trip it started jerking again at high revs. I added another pint of atf ata service station and drove off whith out further problems. I made the return trip without much hassle. Two weeks ago the car started with its jerking again and also made a funny pop sound as if it was seriously mis firing or back firing through the inlet manifold, this time very badly and would not go over 2000rpm. while trying to figure out where the problem lay the car just died and would not start up again.

I checked the plugs and found a lot of oil in the plug ports. I cleaned out the oil and fitted new plugs. This didn't help.

I checked the airflow valve and saw it was very dirty and had a oily carbon like deposit on it. I took off the inlet manifold, airflow valve and EGR valve. everything had a fairly thick coating of carbon deposit on it. I cleaned everything as well as I could and re assembled everything.

The car started up ok and revved ok. On taking it for a test drive it started jerking again afetr about 1km and would not rev over 2000 rpm. It starts and Idles ok but that is as far as it goes.

I checked the fuel pump in the tank and it seems to work fine. The pressure also seems fine as I could not stop the flow with my fingers. I fitted a test light to the electric supply and it showed no break in current flow while the engine was running.

I stay/work in a very remote area and do not have the luxury of expert mechanics or equipment. As the car is an import from Japan the local Mitsubishi guys are unable or unwilling to help. the car has 223 000 km on the clock.

Does any one out there have any ideas as to what can be wrong or where I can look to find the problem???????? Please the car not running is making life quite difficult for me here.

Hello, I have a 1993 RVR Open Gear, fuel is not getting to the rail, I have changed the pump and it is working when I manually introduce power which leads me toward the pump relay being down. Does anyone know where the relay is positioned or what I need to be looking for please?

Hi,MITSUBISHI lovers !! Need info please.How much is fuel consumption per 100km in RVR Sport Gear,gasoline,96my,2000cc??? Please...I heard thet they are fuel drinkers,isn'tr?
Thanks in advance..
emin@nissan-me.ae

Hello Im from the Philippines I recently purchased a 1997 Rvr here in Manila. Its from Japan but converted over from RHD to LHD..first concern was the fuel consumption model 4G63 non turbo..I did a calculation and was getting about 11km per l on the highway havent yet calculated around the city..


Next is while long driving I had to stop over a couple of times because i would see the temp gauge past 50 and reached up to 3/4 before pulling over and letting it cool down. My observation is a small leak on the thermostat housing so i tightened up the hose to make sure no more leaks. Put more water and after another hour of driving gauge goes up again..havent had time to get the radiator flushed out but did notice some rust inside and no coolant just water. Could this be the case or should i expect something major.

PS ive looked through the forum and i love the info so far. Please someone help me

It started as I left off the gas and allowed the expo to decelerate down a hill. I stepped back on the gas, and sputter, sputter, and died. It started right up and sputtered and died. First thought was fuel filter. Had the local (shade tree) garage replace it. didn't fix the problem. New plugs and wires didn't fix it. Garage said it was the cat, so they cleaned it out, and handed it back to me. It ran all the way home, rich and back firing as I let off the gas. I changed out the o2 sensors, no change, the mass air, no change, cleaned out the throddle body, ran a little better, the fuel pump, no change, the distributor, the rotor and the cap, still no change. I tried to read the codes but mitsubishi decided to put a 16 pin port system so they can charge me $100.00 to read what I should have been able to read for free. If you know how to bypass the 16 pin port help is needed. I just 2 months ago had the transmission $1700.00 rebuilt.They replaced the distributor, saying it stopped working properly. The old and new cap do not look like they sit all the way down around the lip of the distributor. But , it starts, idles great, but when warm will stumbles under idle when more gas is being given it. It catches itself as the rpms go up. In gear it does the same except it runs so rich that it looks and sounds like NACAR. If you keep the rpms up it will run, but let off the gas and bang < the backfire and stuttering and stumbling until it slowly catches into self. I can't afford to keep throwing parts at it. Can I get some help. It acts like warming up the 02sensors has something to do with it . It runs better when cold. I think that it is adjusting back into rich mood, but I do not know why ? Thanks for caring and helping. I am presently driving a 1991 montero 4x4 and gas is at $4.00 how smart can I be.

Hi, I 've seen this car for sale but it says in the advert it's not firing on one cylinder.

Is this the sign of something expensive or could it be just simple fix?

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbi...linder/77738849

Hi,

I have a 1995 RVR Sports Gear 2.4L and a warning light which I can not find a description for.

It appears on the far right of the dash, looks like a circle with an exclamation mark in it. The same light you get when the handbrake is on. (And no, I'm not driving with the handbrake on ;-) )

Please, can some kind sole tell me what this means?

Many thanks,
Carl.

Hi all,

I got a RVR sportgear (N23) model and engine died on me. I had it overhauled n replaced the crankshaft with a new one,got it running but after 3 days the car stalled. So i got a "specialist" who recommended i change the engine oil to synthetic but am reluctant to do so since i don't wanna spend much only for the engine to fail on me again. Any advice on what to do? Do i need to look for a new engine? if not,what type of engine oil should i go for. Thanx

Have just had to replace the crankshaft pulley on my 1995 RVR SportsGear. As I do not have the special locking tool for preventing the crank from turning whilst I tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts is there anyway around this. The RVR is an automatic. Thanks.

Hi all,

Just after some help with a part im having trouble getting hold of in the UK.

I am after a Alternator/PAS belt for a 1993 RVR opengear
The engine is a 2.0l 4g63 non turbo, Auto trans
The chassis Model number is N13W

Ok so ive spoken to Mitsubishi about getting hold of a genuine one and they told me, i quote "we have never had to order that part before it will be 6-8 weeks" !!!!!

The company i've orderd other parts through are having trouble as its abit of an odd model here in the uk apparantly (thought it was the same as a space runner??).

My question is, i know the 4g63 engines are used quite extensively by Mitsubishi are there any other models alternater belt i can use?
Any info will be greatly received.

Thanks in advance for your helps forum people.

How many RVR owners are from OZ.


A new forum is growing and RVR's are a focus there.

EvoCrew.com

check it out.

Ive just purchased a 1995 RVR sports gear and am looking at doing a few mild upgrades to it. Ive been a massive fan of the 4G63 for years and have always wanted an evo3 but have neva come across 1 at a decent price. So the RVR was my next choice. The engine has done 249,000km's but doesnt blow any smoke, drop any oil and still makes plenty of power for it's high km's.
After having a look at a few things on ebay ive come to this shopping list for it:
- Front mount Intercooler
- Upgraded TD04 turbo with a 19G Compressor wheel or a TD05 with a 16G wheel
- Stainless turbo manifold
- 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust
- VL turbo fuel pump
- Pod filter.

I dont wanna push the engine too much cause of the high km's but i just want it to breathe a bit better and make the whole engine a bit more efficient. Im open to ne idea's or guidence on this cause ive only eva played with 4AGE 20v's and 4AGZE's.

Hi ive just purchased a 1995 RVR and lovin it. But the first thing that has to change is the top mount intercooler and b replace with a front mount. So if ne1 has a 1997 hypergear front bar that they dont need preferably in good condition it would b much appreciated to help me do this upgrade.

anybody Know if a W4a33 will replace my W4a32 please?

Hi I am new to Mitsubishi’s and the site. I tried and failed to post this once so trying again.

My 91 RVR Manual had thrown a cam belt and needs a new head. I have acquired a complete engine from a later Auto RVR that has a number of differences. Mainly engine mounts and the block casting will not support some of the older mounts.

Can I just use the later head, there are some cooling pipe issues but they look doable. Will the head fit OK and what gasket should I use. I can’t believe it will be the same gasket for both engines?

If I get around the engine mount problem, will the old manual gearbox and flywheel fit the new series auto crank and block?

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all

I have a N74WG RVR Sportsgear 2.4 Auto petrol GDI. It has slowly started developing a serious judder, only when driven steady at between 1700 and 2100 rpm. I suspected an engine misfire, but the engine has been given the all-clear (no fault codes) by Mitsubishi main dealers. The problem only appears when the car has been driven for more than 15 minutes, never when cold. The engine does seem fine if revved stationary, and there are no symptoms if driven at those RPM speeds in first or second gear. The Dealer mechanic reckons its the gearbox, possibly the torque converter, seeing as it is linked to engine speeds... The box shifts perfectly, the fluid is full.

I would appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks.

hi got a rvr 4x4 diesel auto can anybody tell me if the transaxle takes atf .u? and whats the capacity, also end clutch slipping won,t allow 3rd and 4th gear . there is only 3 friction plates in the end clutch. thanks. lee.

Hi there...my RVR's automatic transmission is kaput and it seems I will need a new gear box....so say the oys at the BP, they have been long time mechanics of mine and I trust them well....the car will not go into reverse, or 1, or 2....it will only drive if OD is off....

does anyone here in NZ know where i can get a used gear box....the car will be going over the hill to Nelson for this work and that's where i would ship one to...

cheers
em

I have a three way switch in my car that's labeled Hold, Eco< and Power,,,,what is this for and hwo do I use this?

Also, When do I use OD on and when do I use OD off?

thanks so much for the advice

em

The check engine light is on...I lifted the bonnet and checked the engine was still there...it was. I need to reset the check engine light and need a code reader. I am assuming that this car needs an OBD1 reader (14 point socket) and not an OBD2 (16 point socket). The car is a grey import registered 1996 but apparently it has "the old style socket" according to a mechanic.Can anyone confirm which reader I need...or tell me a cheap fix to reset the light. Thanks.

This is a 1992 Expo. I am in USA.


Can anyone tell me the interchange of these flex plates? Or a part number?

Also, why did this thing break? Yes it snapped at the three bolts...and it still
drives, but with a loud knocking. What should I expect to see as far as
collateral damage?

Is there a forum you can recommend where I can post the pictures and maybe get
some answers? I am wanting to pull the engine and transmission together, is that
possible?
Thanks

Am currently fitting new rear brake pads on a 1996 RVR SportsGear 4x4 Turbo. As the old brake pads are fairly worn the caliper piston is now fully extended and are proven difficult to push back into place. Appreciate help with the following.

1. I know on some cars the rear brake caliper pistons need to be screwed back into place. Is this the case with the RVR?

2. Any suggestions on how to un-stick them?

Many Thanks

hello just joined yday i have a space runner glxi was my dads for about 5 years now he doesnt drive so gave it to me just done discs and pads a few days ago andf am in the middle of sorting out rear fog lights.

does anybody know where or what coil-overs would fit on the car?

Guys,

I have made an introduction post in the main forum, but this is where I plant to spend most of my time on this forum.

I have ’93 Eagle Summit AWD (same as Mitsu Expo LRV) with a 5sp, which I plan to modify: improve the brakes, the suspension and install 300-400hp 4g63t engine.

So far, I have addressed the suspension: EVO9 struts/springs in the front and cut stock springs/EVO shocks in the rear. To add some much needed support, I am planning on adding strut tower bars. I know that 2G DSM bar fits in the rear, but does anyone know if the Lancer bar fits in the front?

I am also doing some interior enhancements:

- I am getting rid of those annoying mechanical seat bents (this effects 92-94 US models, in 95 they went to the manual belts/air bag combination).

- Shortened the gear shifter (stock shifter is way too long!) and stiffened-up the shifter base.

- Converted to the 1G DSM, leather covered steering wheel.

- Plus, being an older car, it needs numerous little tweaks and fixes (flaky ignition switch, bad lock cylinders, non working power locks and missing weather stripping).

I was to going to raid the local junk yards, which have plenty of these van, but instead, I got an opportunity to pick-up a parts car (’95 Summit AWD). So I have been lucky enough to have a spare car at my disposal, which is a HUGE benefit when working on a car!!!

Anyway, I am planning on keeping as many spare parts from this car as reasonable (engine/tranny/ rear end), and one of my friends, who also owns one of these vans, will come by to take a bunch of parts, but the rest will go to the junk yard.

So if anyone needs anything in the next couple of weeks let me know and I will part with it for not much money. Naturally, I prefer to deal with locals, but I will ship things (at your expense) as long they can be packaged-up and fit with-in UPS Ground limits.

Ooops' Title should be From New Member first mistake

edit:( fixed for you mod)


Hi, my name is Mark and I’m in the UK.

I own a 1996 RVR Sport Gear 2ltr Turbo Diesel (4D68) auto.



I also own a 2.5 V6 Mazda MX-6 J-spec (Import again) 4WS and I’m a member of the UK Mazda MX6 Forum (MX6OC.com), I use the name MX6 Addict (I owned four at one time, two E-spec cars and two J-spec)



The RVR is obviously an import in the UK and finding out information is proving difficult.
The car has 63,000 miles on the clock, a bit hard to believe but in the UK most 4 x 4’s are used as the school run car and you find quite a few 10 – 15 year old cars with less than 100k miles.
The interior of the car supports this mileage with very little wear on the driver’s seat, carpets (has the RVR carpets with the leatherette badge) and pedals. I do have paper work from the time the car was imported but I’m not naive and what happened to it while it was in transit is anybody’s guess.

I would like to check a few thing out with people who know about these cars.

1: Auto Box
I read that these are a bit troublesome. When I got the car it was low on gear box oil so I topped it up. The gear box doesn’t seem to have any problems except that when it’s warm and you are sat at traffic lights in drive, it seems to be a bit lumpy or snatchy. Is this normal for the auto?
I always slip it into Neutral anyway. From experience with my first MX-6 (that was auto as well) I know that the gear box oil needs to be changed regularly.

Auto Box Cooler:
There is, what seems to be, the gearbox cooling radiator in front of the main radiators, but there is also another radiator in the off side (we drive on the right) front wheel arch? I can’t find any reference to this. I must admit I haven’t crawled under and followed the pipe work yet, just wondered if this was standard? The car didn’t have a tow bar fitted when I bought it and it doesn’t look like one ever has.

Turbo:
Where would I find a number or reference for the Turbo?
The pipe that goes from the Turbo to the Intercooler is made from a web type of material (same for the Intercooler back to the engine), is this standard?
The Turbo to intercooler pipe has a split in it and I’m getting a slight jet or mist of oil when the engine is revved, is this oil a sign of the Turbo going? The pipe also expands with the pressure when the engine is revved, is this normal?
The only experience I have with Turbo Diesel is an old Citroen Xantia Estate I owned pervious and the turbo pipes in that were rigid plastic.

What other car would have these pipes in the same shape so I can buy replacements?
I believe that the 4WD system is the same as the Evo 6, is this correct? And do things like drive and prop shafts overlap with the Evo for spares?

I’m getting about 33mpg on a run, is this something like right?

Thanks

Mark

As far as I know, you can remove a cat to a vehicle pre dating August 1992 (is this right?) My RVR is not specificly dated merely says manufactured 1992 on the log book. Now, A) Can I remove it and fit a stainless anti cat which only costs about £30?
B) Should I remove it and will it cause the whole thing to explode and die?
C) Leave it alone and pray that it keeps passing it's MOT tests?

Must add, I am in the UK

Hi, my rvr is not running smooth. It is a J reg (1992 ish) with a 16 valve 1.8 petrol engine. It has been running great but suddenly it has been really hesitant when you press the throttle (kangarooing and suchlike) Starts fine, but it's a real bugger when accelerating. I checked the plugs and all were fine with no tell-tale soot or suchlike. Any suggestions greatly appreciated, cheap solutions even more appreciated!