source :bigpaul
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/for...opic.php?t=3997

Mitsubishi 1999 Spacerunner & Spacewagon (RVR)
Note: Covers the 4G64 DOHC (2350cc) and 4G93 DOHC (1834cc) engines only so no turbo info here. Has General, Engine, Engine Lubrication, Fuel, Engine Cooling, Intake and Exhaust, Engine Electrical,
Engine and Emission Control, Clutch, Manual and Automatic Transmission, Propeller Shaft, Front and Rear Axle, Wheel and Tyre, Power Plant Mount, Front and Rear suspension, Service Brakes, Parking Brakes, and more.
http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mitsubishi-Space-Ru...hop-Manual.html

Also found another one with 4G63 and 4G64 non turbo: http://indy.pp.ru/GDI/Docs/!Motor%20Re..._SERIES_E-W_WM/ (copy and paste link into your address bar)

My mother-in-laws 95 RVR 1.8 litre auto has always shifted a bit hard when cold and loose when hot. I'm planning to change out fluid first as this has never been done to my knowledge (108kms). I added some friction modifiers last year and it helped for a short time but it soon went back to where it was before. Can anyone tell me what AT fluid is recommended and if it requires a special Mitsi type like my 97 Pajero? Is it essential to flush tranny when doing?

Any other recomendations would be useful from those owners who have experienced problems with their auto. I've never worked on this yet but all else is going well (eco/powr/hold & overdrive settings). Is there a filter to clean/change and any other maint required with the tranny?

Jim

My RVR 2.0 diesel gives what I think is very poor fuel economy. It returns only 22 mpg on a good daily country route.

I know its an auto and 4WD with air-con but I expect a 2.0 diesel to do better!

Anyone know what mpg to expect? or any ideas on how to improve it?

PS> Its a 4D68 engine.

what are the common indications of a bad or spent tranny fluid?

I need help here. I have a 1994 Expo Lrv with a 2.4L auto in it. 131,000 mi on it. It will sometimes stall when you roll to a stop or when you shift to drive or reverse from neutral or park regardless of temperature. It doesn't always do it. If I keep the throttle valve off the stop and bump it into neutral coming to a stop it will idle normally. It only does it in gear with the throttle closed. I have held the throttle slightly open thinking it might simply need an adjustment but it stalls off the stop as well. So I don't want to mess with the idle air or fixed idle adjustments. I have the factory manuals for these cars and have four of them. I need a tech here because I don't know what else to do. I've overhauled the transmission, replacing the torque converter and swapped out the entire valve body including the solenoids so the trans shouldn't be causing it. The coolant temp and vehicle speed sensors are okay. I've swapped out the map sensor with no change. I've swapped out the throttle body including the tps and iac with no change. I've blocked off the vacuum ports at the manifold so it's not a vacuum leak. I've swapped the fuel rail, injectors and regulator no change. I've swapped the fuel pump no change. Swapped engine and trans ecu's no change. Swapped the shifter position switch on the transmission no change. Swapped the distributor (cam and crank sensors, ignitor) and wires no change. I've swapped the egr and egr temp sensor and the car isn't showing any codes. Everything is stock and everything looks normal. The car runs fine until it stalls. Off idle it runs great going down the highway. No smoke or noises. My wife says it started doing it after she filled the gas tank. I've visually inspected the tank when I had the pump out and there's no contamination or water in it. I've run that tank out and have since filled it back but it's still doing it. I've followed the schematic and checked what I thought was everything it could be. I've even swapped out the iac motors by themselves just in case but it still stalled. Now I'm starting to repeat things I've already done. I may be missing something obvious but this thing is really kicking my butt. Thanks in advance for any help.

i have a rvr 96 auto x2. does this car have a light in the dashboard that would tell me that i need to change my cambelt? if there is, where can i find it

what does the 2 and L in the throttle mean and whats are its uses.

Hi I am new here and living here in Japan. I have a 1994 RVR and do not understand all the warning light on my dash. I have one that looks like a tank and has a liquid in it and it light up last night here, To hard to check under the hood it has been snowing here for 4 days now.Is there an english book out there for this car?

i have a problem w/ my RVR. when i switch on my OD then step on the brakes to stop it makes a loud thud. but when i turn off the OD it doesnt make that sound. what could be the problem. i suspect the gearbox but im not to sure? pleasssssssssse help. any ideas?

can anyone tell me where i can find the fuel filter for my RVR 96 x2. cheerssss

I have a question to any RVR turbo owners:

1. What style hub does your wagon have (4 or 5 studs)?
2. Did it ever come with rear limited slip differential (LSD)?
3. Do you know of any company that offers stiffer rear springs?

Thanks,

Hi, I have just done the Cam- belt balance shaft belt and the tensioners and idlers, and water/pump. I'm absolutley Knackered. What a lot of work to replace all these bits, half the time on your back and the other half stood over the wing.
This was all done over yesterday and this morning, on my 1994 RVR twin cam 4g63. I'm now 60, and found it very strenuous on my old body, I would think this will be my last major job on these more ( by my take on cars) modern cars, I'll stick with fixing up my 69 Fiat 850 coupe and my Lancia Gamma from now on.Theres a hell of a lot more room to work on these oldies than the RVR.
Anyway if your young in the body and have a good selection of tools and know your way around cars, hopefully like me you will get lots of satisfaction from doing the job well. After it was all back together, turned the key and she started up first turn. I just googled 4g63 cam belt replacement, to get a couple of helpfull sites.


Cheers Gerry

gday every1 im a new member that may be buying an rvr. i also own a jza70 supra and i was just wondering what sorta decent boost that you can put threw a bog stock rvr? any help would be great thanks.

I have MD311121 ecu and wondering what injectors the N23 has: 240cc or 275cc.
So, what are the cams duration for N23 4G63? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Hi all!

Somebody have new RVR at this forum??? N73W or N74W?
Or N23W only?
I have some question about this car.

Glad for help!

I have a rvr x with a 4G63 engine in it lately there is a noise like top end so all i do is not runing it cold over or close to3000 revs ones it is warm 2000 the oil pressure light is not coming on or flicking it is on when i start the engine im not so familiar with this motor so pls help

just bought a 94 expo lrv.it has 95,000 miles and i don't know the history. i really like it and i'm on the road alot.thanks for any help...taz...

It has been running great up until now. About a month ago we noticed a weird dash light. It kind of looks like a radiator and is orange. It doesn't stay on all the time. I've checked the coolant on several different occasions thinking that is what the light meant, but have not noticed any loss of coolant. Then earlier this week as I was turning into my driveway, it just stalled and I have not been able to restart it. A friend said to check the battery, its fine. Could it have something to do with the weird light? What should I try next? Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys,

I have a 1992 Mitsubishi Sports Wagon, Manual, Petrol version. I am planning on getting it fitted to run on LPG. Has anyone done the same and had any issues that I should be aware of ?

Also, what grade of engine oil you use. I have been told to use different grades and all of them have been burning.

Thanks,
Satish

Good Day, i just discovered this Forum and took the time to browse through the different posts. First off, i'm a Mitsubishi RVR owner for the past 4 or so years. Its a Mitsubishi RVR 1995 Model, Automatic Transmission 2.0L Non Turbo engine. In that time period, the Automatic Transmission broke down 3 times. Why did My parents choose the Mitsubishi rvr as their vehicle of choice while searching for a vehicle on the internet? My guess is as good as yours.

The Tell Tale signs of the Transmission problems are obvious. Occasional slipping of gears that becomes more frequent until driving is impossible. i noticed that the the transmission used to break down after long journeys across the country. Not just once but over a period of time. why? That i will explain in a bit.

I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but Common sense and research does alot.

The Problem? In my research, i've found out from a couple of webcites and RVR owners around the world, that the Automatic Gearbox made from 1993-1996 was defective. How? The Cooling Mechanism inside the Transmission didn't work/Right. Thus, the transmission fluid would not get sufficient cooling and would eventually loose value(Most fluids in Engines/Transmissions has to be changed regularly because of that). The RVR was a special case. because the Cooling was Minute, the oil would cook and cook,,,,and cook...until the value was so low that eventually the mechanisms inside the Gearbox would start going bad some faster than others..thus causing slippage of clutches etc.(i'm not familiar with all of the different parts inside the Tranny). In my case, the Transmission went bad faster. Why? I'm a motor sport entheusias. Thus, i love fast driving, coordinated driving, races etc. The RVR is Clearly NOT the suitable vehicle for all of that.

So what would happen, when i ran HARD for sometime without servicing the transmission(my fault), it would start giving problems, usually would overheat and start slipping but it would happen maybe after a long run that would get the transmission EXTRA hot. Thus i'd have to get the vehicle towed back home.

The Remedy? The first time the transmission went bad, my dad sent it overseas, got it rebuilt and it was sent back. it worked for about a year and a half then went bad again. This time after being off the road for 7 months,(source problems) i bought a used Transmission from a local used parts agent. worked like a dream for about a year den went bad AGAIN.(SIGH..)This time it stayed down for 8 Months and i used another vehicle to get around. Finally, after a long wait, a transmission repair kit i ordered came. Gave it to my Mechanic, he delayed a couple of months before fixing. I finally got the RVR a couple of Days ago. Works great. What caused the Transmission to give up this last time?

---->I had a small tear on my chassis so i took the vehicle in to a Nissan Suzuki Dealership(bad idea)..i worked there at the time. They had to take off the Engine and Transmission to weld the chassis properly(there's a bunch of novice young guys working as Techs there.). They did. after i was given delivery of the vehicle i had a whole bunch of problems. First, some wiring was done wrong so in driving when i was to DIP on the x, the vehicle would suddenly go into neutral or slip. That was fixed(mix up in wiring). Next, the engine was on a side and the heating mechanizm on the engine touched the radiator fan. i was told that i had a bad engine mount. so i payed no mind(couldn't get the mount at the time). 3 months after, on a long journey, i noticed that SUDDENLY the "A/T TEMP" warning light on the dashboard came on(my island is VERY mountainous). 10 minutes after, the transmission started slipping severly. i had to tow the vehicle back to my home(50 minutes away).

What caused the Transmission to suddenly go bad after just 3 months fresh out of the Nissan dealership?(they claimed they did not interfere with the transmission. they just took it off with the engine and placed it back) i found out TODAY after i did a journey. about 30 mins into the trip, the vehicle suddenly started smoking. i stopped, checked under the hood and saw some splatters of oil around the tranny/bottom pan area..so i just figured the oil got hot and steamed. A bit more driving and i looked in my rear view and saw a trail of smoke. I looked into my dash and there was that A/T TEMP warning light again!!!!!! What is going on!!!! Anyways i opened the hood, looked around it and guess what?? Neither of the 2 Radiator Cooling fans are spinning! BINGO! the Transmission had EVERY reason to overheat 8 months ago. I figure that was ANOTHER one of the problems from the dealership. the fans were not connected. Anyways at that point the gears were going hay-wire, so i think the ECU went into safe mode(happened to me once b4) i'm stuck in 3rd gear. I let it cool down and i finally made it home. (My mechanic should be coming a little lata to check on it)

There's my solition for now. Get the Fans fixed and flush the Transmission every couple months to keep it going. but i think i'm going to buy a Manual Transmission and end ALL of the worries. The RVR is a GREAT vehicle and i love it. Anyone who wants to buy one, they need to be aware of the Auto Transmission problem on the 1993-1996 models. Buying a Manual or even a Turbo is good. Stay away from the Auto Transmissions.

Oh...the solution to the engine being on a side? The NOVICE guys at the Dealership installed the engine mount UPSIDE DOWN 180 Degrees. so the two bolts for the engine was further forward, thus the reason the engine HAD to come forward to fit. They Rectified that problem yesterday.

I hope some of the info i gave will be meaningful to any of you guys who own RVR's and those contemplating buying.

Peace out

Shreddaz.

Hello everyone,

Recently I've bought an old mitsubishi Space runner 2001 2.0i - 136hp. Everything was OK with the car when I drive it at low rpm - about 1500-3000, but when It hits 3000 rpm and above the "check engine" light turns on and two of the cylinders stop working. When I turn off the engine and start It again everything is OK and "check engine" light is off. It happens at any speed or gear once It hits 3000 rpm (and keep rpm at about 15 seconds). The computer says that It is crankshaft sensor so I change the sensor, but the problem remains. I also change the coils, but situation is the same. I would appreciate any help and advise.

Thank you,
P. Ivanov

I need to replace the distributer cap and rotor on my mother-in laws RVR and I seem to have some problems sourcing. Trying to find in NZ they have listings for the cap but no rotor. It is also very expensive for what it is being approx $60US just for the cap. I've had a look on the US parts sites and there is a large range of prices and types of caps & rotors (link below). Can someone advise on what they would recommend for me and another model which would fit (ie Eclipse)?

95 RVR/auto with 106,000kms on clock
engine = 4G93- 1.8 litre NA

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/

Thanks in advance,

Jim

just followed your advice and took my cap off and cleaned rotor arm and inside of cap,mine still has sticker on distributer from mitsu..T6T57671 A,and underneath 204 UA,dont know if its of any use to anybody when trying to get bits,1995 1800cc,
small point under brake servo next to fuel filter there is a round plastic canister with a pipe from manifold going to it,what is it,as im going to replace my fuel filter and could do that at same time if it needs swopping,on a lighter note,its cold in new zealand then,i will swap you its 45 here.

The problem is that sometimes you can turn the key and car starts right up, sometimes there is a delay, and finally some times nothing. If I reset the key and try again start the car again, I have the same chances. It hasn't failed completely yet and I like to figure it out before it does.

94 expo 2.4L, auto. Just had the water pump replaced and I don't think that is the problem, but the timing belt was removed during the process and it was placed back where it was found, or so they say. Now, I have a pop noise when I let the motor decelerate around 45 mph. I thought that it was the accerator cable was stucking and releasing with a pop, but the car has to be in gear to have the noise happen. The car runs great except for the " small pop". The noise will be delayed when I am decelerated going faster than 45mph by a second or two. It sounds like a small valve or door closing . nothing loud just something you notice. It even sounds like a single pop while staring the motor, but not when it idles or is out of gear. could the timing be incorrect. While driving the noise sounds like it come from in front of the driver. The noise sounds like a small, small backfire in the injection system. Can anyone help me find the pop?

Hello, I have noticed my car got a replacement tranny with the model number W5M33-2-MMZL and I need to know if its the correct final drive gear for my 1998 GSX Eclipse cause I belive that my cars center diff is going to blow.



Please help me!



Thanks

Kendel

Hi All,

Me and my partner just bought a 1998 RVR X2 one month ago. It is in really great condition and all, but today we noticed a defect. The automatic transmission shift lock button does not work at all. Well, it is not doing what it is supposed to do. That is, I can shift from P to R to N to D and vice versa without having to press the shift lock button. It confuses me. Obviously, I did not notice until just recently when I accidentally went from D to P without pressing in the button. It does not matter if the car is started or not...

Any theories?

Much appreciated!!!

Just as I finished taking a test drive with the EVO9 syspension, I noticed that my upper radiator end-tank has a crack in it (got to love those plastic end-tank radiators ). So I now have to get a new one.

I do not want to get a regular radiator out of the autoparts store. So I am wondering what are some of the other options? Has anyone ran Koyo radiator? I only found it from just one vendor on Ebay and that conserns me because it might be an incorrected listed item.

Has anyone used other brands? What about adapting radiator from other cars? Perhaps from EVO? In case you haven't noticed, I like to "borrow" upgraded parts from other cars.

Wont start, fuel pump does not appear to stay on - we've tried several different fuel pumps, one new, tested power at pump showing 3 volts at run postision, 9 volts attempting to start....

Any ideas?

Does anyone out there know how to set the clock in a 1998 RVR? Its in japonese and has me utterly stumped.

Hi, the door mirrors on my 94 rvr wont fold in or out , and cant be adjusted for rear view.
I have had the sw that sits in the centre consol near the gear shift out for a look, and gave it a blast of air , and the plug has only one terminal that is live, should there be more than one terminal live. Any help, electrics are not my forte.
Cheers Gerry

Hi All,

I am able to get all belts required for any car.

All i need is the manufactures code or the belt code if you can get it.

will send the belts to you by registered post / or express if you require it.

please email me on marcpuss@optusnet.com

and please supply location you require to belts sent to so i can email you back with a

price on the belts and postage cost.


If you need help with getting the belts you require please just email me.


All the best

Thanks

Marc

96 RVR Turbo Diesel 2.0Lt Brisbane

I have a 93 Expo LRV, I know that it is 1.8L but after that there is not much I can say, other than I love this "mini-minivan." A week and a half ago, she just died. I was driving home and I turned a corner and she died, after letting her set for a bit she started back up and I was able to drive the few blocks home. The next morning I got up to go to the store and she wouldn't start. She would turn over but wouldn't catch, so I called my mechanic and he discovered that she had no spark and a part of the distributor was bad. Well unfortunately you can't just by parts for the distributor you have to buy the whole distributor. So we did that, and she was running fine. She was having some issues with dying when I would come to a stopsign/stoplight but after he adjusted the timing belt it didn't do that anymore.
Unfortunately, now she seems to be having the same problem. My mechanic checked the distributor and it is fine, but she still won't start. When she first died this week I would hear a clicking noise when I would go to start, but I bought the car used and have no Owner's Manual and my mechanic is not familiar with working on a car of this type. I need my car and don't know what else to check. Any help is greatly appreciated.

is there a way to bypass auto choke as mine still cuts in even though its 40 degree's here,there are four wires going into it,i dont really ever need it as it never drops below 16 here.,,,steve