L300 Express, Starwagon 1987 -1994 Manual Pages as pdf files

Fair use - Please specify the pages you NEED, I will do them ASAP for you, e-mail me direct at the following address please, miris@orcon.net.nz thanks, Mike.
DO NOT ASK FOR THE WHOLE MANUAL OR SUBSTANTIAL PARTS OF IT. I NO LONGER RESPOND TO REQUESTS FOR MORE THAN A CHAPTER OR TWO AS MANY REQUESTS ARE BY NO MEANS MODERATE.
FAIR USE LAWS LIMIT IN NZ IS 10%

miris@orcon.net.nz

Pages scanned are:- (black & white, 300dpi, page size: 1.0 to 1.2 Mb typical)

p0 Front Cover (colour image), p2 ISBN page (ISBN 0 855 667257 Autofix Manual No 604, Haynes Manuals Inc., First edition April 1994, First reprint July 2000, Second reprint November 2001.), p3 Contents, p5 Drawings SH Models, p189 CONVERSION TABLES - torque, pressure, length, area, fuel consumption, temperature, volume, mass, force, power, flow, decimal & millimetre equivalents. p191 Gregory's Manuals Listings (as at 2001).

Ch1 p7-17 GENERAL INFORMATION (p7 Vehicle identification, p7-9 Safety Information, p9 -11 General hints, p11-13 Tools and spares to carry, p13,14 Jacking and towing, p14 changing a flat tyre, p14,15 Jump starting, p16 Breakdown chart, p17 related photos.

Ch2 p18-24 TECHNICAL DATA (p18 Vehicle Dimensions, p18,19 Routine Maintenance, p19 Tune Up, p19 Engine, p19-21, p21 Engine Electrical, p21 Cooling System, p21,22 Fuel & Engine Management System, p22 Clutch, p22 Manual Transmission, p22 Automatic Transmission, p22,23 Front Axle & Suspension, p23 Rear Axle & Suspension, p23 Steering, P23,24 Brakes.)

Ch3 p25-48 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE (p25 Intervals and schedules(refers you to P46-48 schedules and to Ch2 technical data) , p25 Jacking procedures, p25,26 Engine oil, p26 Drive belts, p27-32 Engine Tune-up, p33,34 Emission Control, p34.25 Cooling system, p35 Air conditioning, p36 Clutch, p36,37 Manual transmission and transfer case, p37,38 Automatic transmission, p38 Front axle and suspension, p39 Rear axle and suspension, p39 Free wheeling hubs 4 x 4 models, p40 Front wheel bearings, p40 Rear wheel bearings, p40,41 Steering, p41,42 Brakes, p42,43 Electrical system, p43,44 Body, p44 Wheels and tyres, p44,45 Exhaust system, p46-48 Service schedule.)

Ch4 p49-60 ENGINE (p49 Description, p49,50 Engine compartment & covers, p50-53 Timing belts & sprockets, p53-56 Cylinder Head, p56-58 Engine removal, p58 Oil seals, p59,60 Engine Mechanical Troubleshooting chart.)

Ch5 p61-66 EMISSION CONTROL (p61 Introduction, p61,62 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, p62,63 Evaporative emission control system, p64-66 Exhaust control system.)

Ch6 p67-76 ENGINE ELECTRICAL (p67 Precautions, p67-69 Starter motor, p69-71 Alternator, p71-74 Ignition system(coil, ballast, distributor) p75,76 Engine electrical troubleshooting chart.)

Ch7 p77-82 COOLING SYSTEM (p77 Description, p77,78 Checking for leaks, p78 Radiator, p78,79 Thermostat, p79,80 Water Pump, p80 Fluid Coupling, p81,82 Trouble shooting chart.)

Ch8 p83-90 FUEL AND ENGINE MANAGEMENT PART 1 CARBURETTOR MODELS (p83 Description, p83-87 Carburettor, p87,88 Fuel Pump, p89,90 Fuel & Engine management troubleshooting chart.)

Ch8 p91-97 FUEL AND ENGINE MANAGEMENT PART 2 EFI MODELS (p91,92 Description, p92 Depressurising fuel system, p92,93 Fuel pressure check, p93 Fuel tank, p93 Fuel pump, p93,94 Pressure regulator solenoid valve, p94 Oxygen sensor, p94 Control Relay, p95-97 Fuel & Engine management troubleshooting chart.)

Ch9 p98-106 CLUTCH (p98 Description, p98-101 Clutch unit and release mechanism, p101 Master cylinder, p102,103 Slave cylinder, p103 Hydraulic system, p103 Clutch cable, p104 Clutch pedal, p104-106 Clutch troubleshooting chart.)

Ch10 p107-115 MANUAL TRANSMISSION (p107 Description, p107 Oil seals, p108-110 Transmission assembly, p111,112 Transfer Case, p112, 113 Propeller shaft(s), p113, 114 Universal joints, p114, 115 Manual transmission and propeller shaft troubleshooting chart.)

Ch11 p116-121 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (p116 Description, p116,117 Selector cable, p117 Kickdown cable, p117,118 Inhibitor switch, p118 Oil seals, p118,119 Transmission assembly, p120,121 Automatic transmission troubleshooting chart.)

Ch12 p122-136 FRONT AXLE AND SUSPENSION (p122,123 Description, p123 Shock absorbers, p123,124 Torsion Bars, p124,125 Steering knuckle, p125,126 Upper suspension arm, p126 Lower suspension arm, p126,127 Upper ball joint, p127 Lower ball joint (please note that some models are fitted with a ball joint secured by a tension ring circlip which can then be pressed out and in, then refit the ring.) p127,128 Stabiliser bar, p128 Radius rod, p128-130 front hub, p131-132 Free wheeling hubs, p132,133 Drive shafts, p133 Oil seals, p133,134 Front axle assembly, p134-136 Front axle & suspension troubleshooting chart.)

Ch13 p137-148 REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION (p137 Description, p137-140 Axle shaft & oil seal, p140,141 Drive pinion oil seal, p141,142 Final drive assembly (differential), p142,143 Shock absorber, p143-145 Leaf spring, p146-148 Rear axle troubleshooting chart.)

Ch14 p149-158 STEERING (p149 Description, p149,150 Steering wheel, p150-152 Steering gear assembly, p153 Power steering fluid, p153 Tie rod end (knuckle), p153,154 Intermediate shaft, p154 Bevel gear assembly, p154 Steering column, p155 Power steering pump, p156-158 Steering troubleshooting chart.)

Ch15 p159-170 BRAKES (p159 Description, p159,160 Brake master cylinder, p161,162 Brake booster, p162-164 Front disc brakes, p164-167 Rear drum brakes, p167 Brake adjustments, p67,168 Hydraulic system, p168-170 Brakes troubleshooting chart.)

Ch16 p171-181 BODY ELECTRICAL (p171-3 Headlamps, 173-5 Miscellaneous lamps- bulb renewal , p175 Fuses, Fusible links, p175,176 Relays, Flasher unit, p176 Instrument cluster, p176 177 Combination switch, Ignition switch, Lock cylinder, p177,178 Windscreen Wiper, p178,179 Trailer wiring, p180 Trailer Wiring for plugs & sockets, Wiring colour codes & key, p181 Wiring diagram.( <you need both pages 180 & 181>)

Ch17 p182-188 BODY (p182 Windscreen and rear glass, p182-184 Front doors, p182,183 Door glass and regulator removal, installation, p183,184 Remote control and door lock removal, installation, p184 exterior handle removal, installation, p184 Lock cylinder removal, installation, p184 Lock striker plate replacement, adjustment, p184-186 Sliding doors, P186,187 Tailgate, p187 Dashboard, p188 Front Heater unit and controls.)


IF YOU HAVE E-MAILED AND NOT RECEIVED A RESPONSE then:
1. You have asked for more pages than I have time to transmit, or
2. I may be travelling away from home and unable to respond for a few days.
3. I am just plain too tired to attend to it today, my apologies.
4. You have not e-mailed me direct to miris@orcon.net.nz

I also have Engine and Transmission manuals for most Mitsubishi models for period 1990 to 1998, in English, please ask for info using the pwee_____-__ reference number. (These are also available in Spanish and Swedish by request.)

ENGINES These are listed by engine series:
4D56 (Diesel) 1991-1993, pwee9067-11A;
4D56 (Diesel) 1994-1998, pwee9067-11B;
4D65 (Diesel), pwee9073-11A;
4D68 (Diesel), pwee9073-11B;

4G1 Series, pwee9001; 4G1 Series E-W, pwee9520;
4G3 Series, pwee9049;
4G5 Series, pwee9055;
4G6 Series 1991-1992, pwee9037: 4G6 Series E-W 1993 on, pwee9616;
4G9 Series, pwee9101, 4G9 Series E-W, pwee9502

4M40, pwee9409-11A;
4M41, pwee9409-11B;

6A12, pwee9202; 6A1 Series E-W, pwee9622;

6G7 Series, pwee9061; 6G7 Series E-W, pwee9615;

F8QT Series, pwee9602;
F9Q Series, PWEE0001

Transmission manuals are also by model number. There is a general listing in pwee9043 which gives the following information:
Engine and Transmission model
Engine model and Serial Number.


CLUTCH, pwee8902-21A pwee8914-21A ;
pwee9508-21A for: F5MR1 F5MR2;
pwee9508-21B F5M41 F5M42 W5M42;

MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS

pwee8902-22A, F4M21 F5M21 F5M22 F5M31 F5M33
W5M31 WW5M33;
pwee8902-22B, KM182;
pwee8902-22C, W5MG1 W6MG1;

pwee8914-22A, R4M21 R5M21 V5M21;
pwee8914-22B, V5MT1;
pwee8914-22C, R5M3 V5M3;
pwee8914-22D, R5M21-5-D R5M21-5-G R5M21-5-P
R5M21-5-T V5M21-9 V5M21-A;

pwee9508-22A, F5MR1 F5MR2 F5MR3;
pwee9508-22B, F5M41 F5M42 W5M42;
pwee9508-22C, F5M51;


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS

pwee8908-23A, F3A21 F3A22 F4A21 F4A22 F4A23;
pwee8908-23B, F4A33 W4A32 W4A33;

pwee8920-23A, R4AW2 R4AW2-1 R4AW2-3 R4AW2-7
V4AW2-1 V4AW2-3 V4AW2-7;
pwee8920-23B, R4AW3 V4AW3;
pwee8920-23C, V4AW4;
pwee8920-23D, R4A51 V4A51;
pwee8920-23E, V5A51;

pwee9514-23A, F4A41 F4A42 F4A51



CARBURETTORS AND FUEL SYSTEMS

Carburettors
Petrol pwee9007 (includes fuel system);

Injection
Diesel pwee9079-13A, Emission Control pwee9079-17A;
Petrol pwee9013-13A Emission Control pwee9013-17A
for the following models:
4G64 L300 Galant VX Hardtop Sapporo;

4G61 4G63 4G67 all DOHC;

4G13 4G15 4G37 4G91 4G92 4G93 4G63 for the following:
Galant SpaceWagon 4G64 SpaceWagon;

6G72 Pajero L200;

4G64 SOHC 8V Pajero/Montero L200;

4G6 SOHC 16V L400 L300;

6A12 6G72 for the following:
Diamante Sigma Magna 3000GT;

6G73 Galant;

6G72 SOHC 24V Pajero/Montero L400;

8G74.


ENGINE ELECTRICAL

Charging pwee9025-16A
Starting pwee9025-16B
Ignition pwee9025-16C
Glow System pwee9025-16D

thought i would start a new thread.



the van. 87 L300 long wheel base.



the reason for the conversion. i wanted something cheap, powerful, reliable but more so something i could get parts for anywhere i happened to break down across Australia.

i picked up a running VN v6 and T700 auto trans from a mate (for a carton of beer) after my original motor died.

i originally started this conversion about 2 years ago and still not quite finished, not because it was hard but just because of money constraints. only thing left to do now is the exhaust which im still saving for. all up the conversions probably cost me about $1000 original car cost me $300.

what i did... after pulling out all the 4g63 motor/manual box i cut the stock engine mounts off the middle "engine" crossmember and ground it nice and flat with an angle grinder. next drop the V6 in and start working what/where it was going to sit best. i wanted to mount it as far back as i could for best handling.

once you have the motor sitting roughly where you want it get your gearbox in the middle of the car and work out how your going to make your gearbox mount. mine is just an upside down U shape made to hang off the stock L300 rubber


once your happy with where your gearbox is sitting you then have to work out how your going to make engine mounts. i dont have any pics of mine at the moment but can take some if wanted but i wanted the motor mounted with very little movement so i used some nolathane suspension bushes from the trailing arms of an old celica i had laying around. the bigger the bush you use the more the motor will move but the less vibrations you will get through the van. using this setup i will never "break" an engine mount rubber.


once you have the g/box and 2 engine mounts made its time to wire it up. commodore motors are simple to wire, only needing a few wires to be connected into the original L300 loom. there are plenty of wiring diagrams online if you google it. another thing i wanted to do was be able to remove everything to do with the V6 and be able to either drop a 4 cyl back in or if the van gets smashed etc be able to unbolt/unplug everything and easily be able to swap everything into another van so i made all my connections between the stock L300 loom and the V6 loom plug in

some pics of most of the wiring mods, this is under the drivers seat where the L300 air cleaner used to be.

white arrows show the V6 loom

black arrows show the L300 loom

Green arrow is the commodore relay block from under the bonnet of the VN. instead of using normal fuses that you have to replace when they blow i have used self resetting circuit breakers (the little silver boxes under the relays)

red arrow shows the connectors i used between the L300 and V6 loom.





the final few things i did:

i tried modifying the L300 3 speed auto shifter/cable to suit the 4 speed T700 trans but it just didnt work for many reasons. i could have kept playing/modifying it to get it working eventually probably, but in the end i bought a B&M mega shifter and a longer (12 ft) cable and used that. works far better than a modified L300 shifter ever could.

i also fitted pacemaker extractors. i did buy a set of advanced extractors but caus of there (somewhat crappy) design they didnt fit in the van. the pacies are not only far better quality and design, they fitted the space in the van better too.

the vans been running and driving for about 18 months now altho not on the road yet. the couple of last things i need to finish are the exhaust and decide how im going to cover the hole i had to cut in the back of the firewall (behind the front seats) i want to find a firewall out of a late model L300 which has a hump in it standard. if i get sick of looking for that ill just end up making my own out of sheet metal and either welding or pop riveting it on. ill probably go the riveting way for ease of removal in case i want to work on something back there.

end result. not very much traction even with an LSD


future plans are to rechip/tune the stock ECU (ive had a lot of experience remapping other cars/bikes and have base maps for HSV SV3800 ecus) have this running straight LPG. ported heads (already working on a spare set of heads i have) bumped up compression ratio and maybe even turbo/supercharge it. but a long way to go yet.

i think that covers most of what is needed and how to do it. sure you can spent a couple of grand on a full bolt in kit but that would have taken all the fun out of it for me not to mention cost me many times more than i spent. even with the kits you still have to spent 100's more on other stuff, shifters etc. so all up if i bought a bolt in kit it would have probably been a 3 or 4 thousand dollar conversion instead of only a $1000 conversion.

this will NOT work in an L300 4x4 because the 4x4's have a transfer case on the back of the stock gearbox and that wont bolt up to the auto trans. my current daily driver is an '84 4x4 tho and no doubt at some stage ill be doing a V6 conversion into that too unless i go diesel.

[attachment=12258:DSC03993.JPG][attachment=12260:DSC03991.JPG][attachment=12261:
DSC04007.JPG][attachment=12262:DSC04020.JPG][attachment=12263:DSC04024.JPG][atta
c
hment=12264:DSC04027.JPG][attachment=12264:DSC04027.JPG][attachment=12265:DSC039
9
6.JPG] this is my 1984 l300 van im doin up into a camper i started with 2 vans and one was very rusty but it was a starwagon so had the high roof so i used that chasey and the roof and used another body pritty big job to change the roof but i got it and came up good then i started on the wheel arches i lowered the front wheel arch 50mm with a slight fare and i dropped the back 100mm so the rim laps the guard will look good with 20s im paintin it black so alot of work to get the body straight as with black you see any little dint but the body work is on hold because im doin work on the engine bay as im putting a cordia gsr turbo in it so there is alot of work pipe work involved to do that i hope people do send replys to tell me what they thing or even any quiestions or ideas hope to have more pics soon

hey guys i have an 89' L300 express with an 1.8 4g62 engine im in desperste need of a workshop manual for it any leads would be welcomed cheers

adam

link

http://enviroimports.com/technical_downloads.html

Just wondering if anybody knows what the ohm range of the factory fuel gauge is? I've just recently had lpg installed, but at the moment I don't have a fuel gauge for it, due to me not wanting an led gauge. I'm wanting to wire it to the factory gauge with a switch to switch between pet and lpg, just need to know whether the sender in the tank is compatible. Otherwise I might just buy a 0-90 Ohm gauge of ebay.

I'm wanting to install dual batteries in my 94 Express, I've sorted out where I'm putting the second battery (right next to the original battery) I'm wanting everything to run off the second battery, and to use the original battery for starting only. I already have my second battery. What I'm looking for is an easy way to hook all this up. I'm not sure about how to connect for charging, but I think I have an idea on the rest (I think) would it work if I ground the second battery to the first, and connect all the wiring from the original battery's positive to the second battery's positive, with the exception of the starter motor and alternator? Still not sure how to connect for charging without drawing from the starting battery when the engine is off. Any ideas on the best way to set this up, without costing a fortune.

Thanks in advance.

I have a 1995 L300 Sportpac SWB Van with a 2.4 16V SOHC 4G64 5 speed manual that is starting to smoke a bit and use oil. Apparently there is a late model version of the 4G64 that came out about 2005 that has a black rocker cover and coil pack ignition. Can anybody tell me if these motors are a direct bolt-in to the earlier van? I am intrigued with the idea of picking one of these (low mileage) motors up and installing in my van. Has anybody done this conversion?

I am getting sick of having an oil leak from my fuel pump on my 94 Starwagon 2L carby model. I have had 2 replacements after the original and still it comes back a drip from the pipe off the top. Is there a decent brand that can be bought, the replacments have been Repco

Hey guys,

it's been a while since I've posted as I've not had the van for 18 months. However now I do it appears the off-side upper and lower ball joints need replacing. Does anyone have an idea of a reasonalbe supplier and expected cost?

Also it looks like there is play in the prop shaft; front and rear and the diff is on it's way out. Look like I'm going to have to get shot of the van shortly.

Hi all i need to replace the rear leaf springs in my old mans 1983 SC starwagon. having abit of trouble trying to find some and was wondering if all the models had the same springs. i did hear that people mover vans had softer springs and the ones from a 4X4 are different. but im happy to put stronger springs in as we dont use it as a people mover anymore. would springs from a 90s model fit. how can i check part numbers. or could someone give me measurements of the springs in their van and ill check to see if they are the same . cheers guys

Hi All, My 96 WA 2.4 EFI, smoking real bad,few months ago replaced the head(broken valves),now the bottom gave away .What is the easiest way of replacing engines?Do they have to come out of under the engine bay? Or is there another easy way of swapping them?

Tx for any advice.

hi, can any one email me just the : electrical diagram for 1998 4g63 carby van.

krawczuk@exemail.com.au

thanks, mark k

my 1990 model L300 4x4 1997cc has an intermittent cut out problem. works fine mostly but occasionally loses all spark? momentarily for a split second. i had the coil and spark leads tested and its ok. changed spark plugs but still happening. i drive along and then its like a jerk in the motor as the ignition seems to cut out and feels like all 4 cylinders go out at once. it can happen a few times in a minute then be fine for 15 minutes then do it again. it doesn't seem like a fuel blockage/pump/filter as its fairly random and not spluttering, but i dont know if its related. its like the spark goes for a split second, sometimes it cuts out for longer, but about 2 seconds is the longest it has cut out for. it has an alarm and immobilizer installed and im wondering if this could be associated. i always run premium fuel, no ethanol, and it runs well apart from the intermittent cut out. it was only happening at higher revs but now it could happen at medium lower revs too. doesn't affect it at idle. anyone have any experience of this? thanks

I'm thinking about adding a remote unit to trigger the side and rear doors that are locked and unlocked using this switch.

I have pulled the switch out and there are 6 wires to it. One is 12v, two wires get the 12v connected to them depending on whether you press "lock" or "unlock" but that leaves 3 wires which are presumably necessary for something.

I've hunted around on the 'net to see if anyone has a wiring diagram for the switch but with no luck. I'm intending to keep the switch in place but would like to add the remote switch capability.

There is an ECU involved as well - it might have sonething to do with not triggering the door solenoid when the child-proof locks are activated, I'm not sure.

If anyone has done this or has any correct information on exacly what this switch does/how it operates please let me know - I don't want to experiment randomly by sending 12v down the wires in case I blow up the ECU and end up without any remote operation on the door locks!

Stephen

I've got an '88 US 2wd van with a 4g64 and 130k.

It's been smoking quite a bit...(not just when cold) and uses oil.

I did a compression test today, and got 131-138psi across all four. results jumped about 17psi when i added a little oil to the cylinders.

(i'm confused because the mitsubishi van service manual says the ratio is 8.5 and the compression pressure limit is 119psi...which is significantly lower than mine are reading).

can someone help me interpret the results and diagnose my issue?

Getting sick of the yuk green, so I pull out my gauge cluster, to see what bulbs it takes, notice that bulbs have a green sleeve, so I head down to Autobarn to pick up some Narva blue sleeves, install them and for all my effects what am I rewarded with, a dash that still lights up green. Is there anything I'm missing? would blue bulbs work out better (don't want to try them unless I have to as they are $5 each) what about leds or is there a green defuser in the gauge cluster (I didn't want to pull it apart because of fear I might break it)

I have a slow fluid leak from one of the front disc calipers. Should I bother getting a kit of rubbers and seals or am I likely to find pitting of the piston or bore to render the exercise a waste of time ?

My 94 l300, the last couple of day won't idle when the motor has warmed up, it's great when cold, but once it's warmed up it tries to sit on 500 RPM and ultimately stalls. for some reason if you choke the carby it will idle again, but goes straight back to stalling as soon as you lift your hand. Any Ideas? I'm getting desperate.

Has anyone had any experience of the vacuum ports on a throttle body? I run a Space gear in the Philippines. It has a SOHC 2.4L petrol engine. The throttle body on this engine has three vacuum ports. One is connected to the purge control solenoid and the other two are connected to the EGR valve solenoid. The engine is running rough and amongst my troubleshooting I checked the vacuum hoses and blew through the ports on the throttle body. So my issue is this; when I apply pressurised air through two of the ports, the air just gushes out into the throttle body. However, when I apply air to the third port, I only feel a very small amount of air being exhausted into the throttle body. This particular port is connected to the purge control solenoid. I don't have any document that tells me if this is normal, although the workshop manual only states to check if a vacuum is being developed, but no numbers are mentioned. Since the port is essentially open, although not as much as on the other two ports, then I will assume that a vacuum can be generated. I don't have a vacuum pump to check.
So essentially I need to know if this is a calibrated port. I have tried to clean this port and blow through it with pressurised air but not change.

The local Mitsubishi dealer cannot help me as he doesn't know.

Appreciate your input.

I've just replaced the cylinder head on my L300 van (cracked, warped head thanks to a hole in a water pipe and subsequent overheating)

To get the head off, the distributor and cam belt have to be removed. In addition, for ease of access, the radiator needs to be removed.

With the radiator out, access to timing marks for both ignition and valves is greatly improved (one might say actually possible) and I'd like to be able to set up the ignition timing before re-installing the radiator so I can see timing marks. It would be nice to do this before reinstalling the battery - but recognise that this last bit might not be achievable.

Can anyone advise on how this might be done?

Not really a l300 mitsi problem, but..

When i change to petrol, it lasts a few minutes then just dies (other times, its just fine and works as it should).. i think i have eliminated the mech fuel pump because when i change back to gas, it wont start till all the fuel is gone, which takes quite a long time.. Must be electrical imo.

any thoughts?

Hey I have a 1997 mitsubishi express van and I want 1 more seat, what model vans came out with the 2 seater passenger seat in the front? cheers

Hello all this is my first post

I have recently purchased a 2008 L200 and wanted to know how to access the Front door speakers if any one can give me a bit of advice.

Best Wishes
Steve

Hey guys,

I bought a 89 Mitsu Starwagon - all seemed well until I took off on the highway ...

It has 260k and is Auto transmission, after 280km I needed to refuel it (45liters) .. a whopping 15.5L/100km.

I know that it is idling high and would like to attempt to adjust the timing but I #1 can't find where the RPM lead is, nor can I figure out how to adjust the timing.

Am I right to assume there is 1 bolt on the distributor that's perpendicular into the engine block?

Prompt help is GREATLY appreciated. I'm touring Australia from Canada and would like to take this thing up the coast... or resell it for something more economical.

Thanks.

HI all, am rebuilding said 4G63 2.L 8V. Engineer selling parts from US (Panstone) asked if I wanted an eliminator kit for the silence shafts. I read sometime ago that sported up motors have these removed and a kit installed. Purportedly to Henry, Panstone, the oil flow will improve, good, and that the increase in vibrations will be about 2%, not even noticeable. Anyone had any experience with this procedure please? Thanks

HI all, rebuilding a 4g63.
I'm stuck on removing the driveplate from the flywheel. Got 6 bolts out.. Do I need a puller? Should they seperate with a little knock? I dont see how the plate is connected to the fly. No spline in the book. Any ideas please?
Thanks


well, save your time...after 2 hours of forums and no videos etc...1 little wiggle and it just about fell off...Is it supposed to be pressed on? theres some dry red paste, dont know if its old lube or friction gunk from the clutch. Prob not...

Any replys welcome...

And any one know the dry weight of a 4G63 block? Can I lift it out by hand. Im reasonably strong..

Hi All,
How can i tell if there overdrive on my 1997 Mitsubishi delica space gear automatic.
cheers
kenny
Skye

Hi All my first post..
Just a few questions about removing gearbox..(Am removing engine) 4G63 2L..

Have it all disconnected except for clutch cable. Do I disconnect at the pedal or the clutch lever? How to remove the tension first? And how to retension on reinstallation?

Also theres a plug of sorts on the right hand side of geaqrbox, looks like a sensor with some wires and and a bakelite connection. Connection does not seem to want to come out to readily.
Do I unscrew the entire unit? Looks like approx. 18m spanner size...

Also, do I need to drain gearbox before unbolting? Will there be a spill otherwise?

Thanks in advance

Judson

didnt pass a warrent of fitness, rear brakes are uneven, put foot on brake start engine and no depression noticed, want to replace servo is it easy enough?
is it under the dash??

some help please.

Hello!

I want to install a tachometer in my L300 diesel, but I am not sure where to connect it. The manual for the tachometer say I need (+) (-) and (W), the last one from the alternator. However, I cannot find the so-called (W).

Does anyone have a detalied wiring diagram, or experience with this on a L300?

Thank you

-Per

I just bought a 1990 Mitsubishi L300 Panel Van with high miles and was thinking about replacing the engine with a 4g63T. I've seen people with this conversion and was wondering what would be needed transmission wise, what kind of mounts, and anything else anybody cared to share. Thanks.

Hey

i am after a diagram of how the vac hoses and solenoids (ones by the fule filter) function, i know there is a solenoid tucked up under the engine bay on the passenger side that controls the Air con, but its broken and the hoses are missing.

ANy one got a manual for the air con and or one that covers tha vacuum circuit (4d56 engine)
cheers

Hi,

do 4d56 engines as a rule normally have a certain amount of metal fillings in the sump?

Engine has 150kms on it, The engine was running OK (aparently, brought it second hand for yet another project), one of the bits in the sump looked like a ringlet.. sort of like a half of a thread.

any input is appreciated.

cheers

Gary

Hey Guys,

I'm having major problems starting my van right now. Once running, it runs like a dream, but starting is proving to be next to impossible. Changed all the plugs the other day, and she started fine the first time (did pour a little bit of petrol directly into the carby) and started ok for the rest of the day. It's morning problems, when cold and damp.

Once started, it does sound like the choke is on, it's revving at a higher than Idle until warm. The engine is turning over, just not getting going.

I'm thinking it's electrical maybe?

Also, I've been having a problem with the alternator belt. Last year I took the van around NZ for a few months, and near the end of the trip it was needing constant adjustment. I'd tighten it, then she'd be loose again by the end of the day. (Yes, I was tightening the lock bolt back up too) and the alternator pulley is getting warm real quick. I was wondering if maybe a pulley may be out of alignment? Does that happen often? Or is there anything anyone can think of?

Finally, underneath, from half way up the back of the engine is a little bit of congealed oil, coming down to the top of the transmission. It's not leaking horrendously, but I assume there is a seal in there somewhere which may be going? I had the engine rebuilt only 40,000kms ago, but the van sits for a lot of the year because I am overseas.

Any help much appreciated!

Hi people, im new to this forum. THanks for looking.

So, I have a Hyundai H100 van, mechanically the same as the Mitsubishi L300 but with a 4D57 2.6 n/a motor. It died on the way back from a trip and it turned out the oil in the motor was so thick and gooey, im guessing it couldnt be pumped through the oil squirters, and subsequently the pin which holds the conrod to the piston shattered away from the piston. This caused the piston to get stuck at the top and get rammed into the valves on the 1 cylinder, bending it.

I removed the motor, and took it apart. I purchased a replacement block as the bore of the motor had been scoured too deep by the conrod. I bought 2 brand new valves for the one cylinder that had bent valves. I replaced the valves and put all the best pistons and conrods into the good block. I put the good block into the van and used a new head gasket and installed the head and pump etc. It started almost first pop, but behaved like it was running out of diesel, like I put the pedal flat and it wouldnt rev very high. and eventually the revs would drop till it died. If you left it for a lil bit and tryed again the same result.

I used some 'Start Ya son of a preacherman' to try get it to keep running, but it turns out that I left the glow plugs on and it has pushed the cover for the pre combustion chamber lower, as I could hear the pistons hitting them. Im currently taking the head off to inspect for damage.

Does anyone know what I may have done wrong here and what I should look for when taking the head off again??
Is there a way to check the presure is high enough from the pump ??

Thanks for reading

Hey all,

My van is pretty damn uneconomical.. and I'm trying to figure out if its meant to be as bad as it is. I doubt it a bit.. It seems im averaging around 230-260kms a tank around the city. Seems waaaayy worse than it should be.

2L 1990 L400 4wd.

What do you guys get on a tank, both city and open road?

Cheers,

Caleb

Hey, just bought another delica van it has corrosion in the bore, can someone take a look and tell me if its fixable? heres the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oJER6VHaRw

The engine blew a heater hose and cooked the head, motor done 157kms, always serviced and ran anti-freeze. So i know it needs a new head, but need to know if the block is usable.

Cheers

GD

Hi,

i just sold my 93 v6 Pajero and got a delica spacegear 2.8D turbo. its done 133 KMs. really looking forward to doing trips with the kids with either sh1t loads of stuff in the back or an uncle & aunty or two.

Great wagon, very low KMs, the ppl i got it off paid $15000.00 with 82Kms in 2004 and its only done 133 now. New tyres, new batteries, dual air works great, dual sun roofs, nice JVC Blue tooth/USB headunit all for $4000.00! It has a few dings that i will get tidied up plus a few wee auto electrical woes ( i used to be an auto sparky ).
So i am going to tint the windows limo black and kit it out with DVD/LCD screens for the kids, might do new carpet and mats too.

I plan to remove the radiator and take it in to be professionally flushed, plus do a thermostat and new Anti freeze. Will get the tranny flushed too (normally $250)

Any thing else i should look for as part of preventive maintenance? where can you get snorkels for these?


I still have my two subarus.. 2001 legacy with a single turbo engine and a 1995 Legacy with an STI single T engine - silver one is mine, blue is the wifes, i may have to part with my one soon though (i built that sucker up myself including full STI ECU wireup, pulls like a school boi)

after some info on refurbishing the dizzy..

As far as i can see, its pissin oil out all over the shop, so i want to..... refurbish

the only thing i can see is an o'ring, possibly worn, will replace first. The workshop manual doesnt actually mention any install specs regarding o'rings and gaskets, im thinking ill bolt it back in with a gasket and sealant.

your thoughts?

400 km's from home & my cam belt dies. Lost about 15 teeth/ribs. Now, i replaced it, and found that the smaller belt is not even installed, any reason this may have been done.

Had a lot of phun installing the cam belt, no marks on the crank, but i got there in the end. and got home..

So, this 2nd belt, whats its purpose? looks like it goes from crank to balancer. I guess it balances out the oil balance thingo

I've blown the motor in my 1989 4x4 starwagon ... a 2WD replacement van is one of the options I'm looking at.
Ayone know whether the LSD from the 4WD will fit the 2WD?

cheers,
slapper

It's a long story, involving fishing, a blown radiator hose, a reback spider bite and an ambulance ...

I have a 1989 Starwagon 4x4 with a blown head ... well, water pump too but I can just buy that from a shop
The head had been recently (ish) reconditioned so the valves are in good nick, but the cam is buggered too - oil starvation will do that. Luckily the bottom-end is okay.
When I pulled the motor, I noticed the left hand mount was pretty torn up - so I need that as well.

The motor's the petrol 8 valve 2.4 (ie. the 8V 4G64)

I'm in Adelaide.

Any ideas?

cheers,
Slap

I have noticed coolant spitting from the aircon/heater unit in the front cabin between the driver and the passenger. Leaves a horrid mess on the carpet. :0

I assume its the heater core/heat exchanger.

Has anyone ever replaced one in the WA models? I would appreciate any advice that can be offered, as I know these can be a pain to replace in some cars.

Regards,

Starwagondad

I have a 1989 4x4 starwagon with the petrol 2.4 8 valve 4G64 in it.
I've done the head and have found a potential swap-over motor in a 1988 2WD starwagon - but it's got an auto.
I'm vaguely aware of narrow/wide block issues and have read so much conflicting info on the 'net that I'm not even sure it's possible to predict what's in a van even if you know auto/manual/year etc.
As I understand it, it's dowel to dowel at the top of the bellhousing that I'm interseted in; with narrow being 310mm and wide being 330mm - is this correct?
Does anybody know if the rumour that the 2.4 autos were all narrow and 2.4 manuals were all wide is true/false?

If this motor will mate up to my tranny, I'm in business

cheers,
Slap

Ok, my 94 Express, last month or so has been lacking on power, really bad when cold, also back fires occasionally, not all the time, but when it's cold, it's always 2 back fires right after another, when it's warm only 1 back fire at a time.

Any ideas

Hi all

I know this section is a bit quiet at times but is there a dedicated van forum for Australia at all, if not do you think there would be enough interest for one?

Would be nice to get a bit more activity, however I suppose most van owners treat them as a workhorse and thats it?

I have been suffering worse fuel economy in the last couple of weeks and the only thing I have done recently is replace the plugs that were well past their useby date after 100,000km. Economy could be suffering badly due to breathing 100% humid air with all our excessive rainfall and consequent flooding, this must have an effect on a carby engine.

My thoughts turned to the Air Filter element which has been in there for years so I pulled it out this AM to see how it goes, it is really obvious that the air intake path is woefull and should be improved.

Are there any suggestions, bearing in mind a few tubes that go from sensors on the intake pipes back to the carby.

Air cleaner direct on top of carby? or is this likely to breathe hot air.

A pod on the 70mm intake tube that currently goes to the air cleaner bucket? Remove the bucket and then it should draw air up from behind the front wheel, something must be an improvement

My old coil was starting to get a little weak, causing some misfiring etc, put in a new coil, I thought I got all the wiring correct, but now all it does is crank over and doesn't fire, so just in case I got the wires wrong, here is how I have it wired. BTW it's a 94 4G63 2.0L with electronic ignition (no points)

[attachment=14338:Mitsubis...l_wiring.JPG]

EDIT: If anyone has a proper wiring diagram it would help.

Does anyone have advice about replacing the thermostat on a '95 Express?

I've just had a quick go but cannot get my hands in anywhere to loosen the hose and undo the housing.