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have forged the engine, put an LSD into the auto, custom stainless exhaust, custom intercooler, Koni suspension, 8 piston KSP brakes, 19 inch wheels Yokahama tyres, custom intake,custom exhaust manifolds twin garrett 2560 dual ball bearing turbochargers.
255 kw at the wheels 300kw at the flywheel.
Me thinks it's the a very quick 380/9G galant.
-dual Garrett ball bearing turbos with inbuilt waste gate assy -Link Extreme G4 ecu fitted and running complete with knock sensor -660cc Siemens injectors and modified injector rail -Walbro fuel pump -dual full length exhaust custom stainless steel -custom fabricated exhaust manifolds and heatshields -custom catalyctic converter fabrication, placement same as stock -custom intercooler and piping..(in progress and a pain in the ass)
Here are some random pics will post more if anyone interested.
Hi guys, I'm not sure if I'm in the right section for this but I'm enquiring about lowering my 380. As far as I can tell the only springs available to suit are super lows.. I was wondering if there were any other springs for other cars that would be compatible to the 380? A bit like how BMW springs/rims suit Holden's etc. I'm looking to lower it a little more than 30mm but not too much more and wanted to avoid coil overs and airbags, they're a bit too costly for my liking!!
I have a 380 Series II with an Automatic Transmission problem that Mitsubishi seems unable or unwilling to resolve.
I am getting a severe shudder, accompanied by a momentary surge in RPM as the transmission transitions from 3rd to 4th, or 4th to 5th. Additionally, I get the same problem every time I back off and reaccelerate in those gears. In practice, this results in a totally jerky and uncomfortable ride, particularly when driving around town.
The problem has been isolated to the Damper Clutch (lockup clutch) engagement, which is controlled by the cars transmision ECU.
After several visits to dealers, the problem was finally escalated to Mitsubishi Motors, who have advised me that this it is a common problem with the 380 and is a result of a software bug in the Transmisison ECU. Unfortunatelty, because Mitsubishi's Factory and 380 development teams were closed down here in Adelaide a couple of years ago, there no longers exists any engineers to look into the software and resolve this problem.
After some futile attempts to camoflage the problem with a transmission oil pressure increase, I was advised that Mitsubishi Japan were looking into the problem. Many months later, I am now advised that this is not the case and nothing more can be done.
I have been advised that this effects 50% of 380's. My vehicle is still under manufacturer warranty and I am furious that if the problem is as widespread as Iam being told it is, that nothing is being done about it.
To give a bit more of a technical background......
- The problem only occurs when the Transmission has reached operating temperature. There is a Temperature sensor in the Transmission, which the ECU uses to determine when to start applying the Damper Clutch engagement algorithms.
- The shudder is consistently bad at speeds of around 50 & 60kmh, but becomes even more pronounced at lower speeds (40-50kmh) and RPM, turning into a faily violent jolt as a result of deaccelerating whilst still in 4th gear, then reapplying acceleration.
- Mitsubishi increased the transmission oil pressure and reset the trasmissions adaptive learning, in attempt to improve the problem. This made an improvement for a few weeks, only to have the problem come back worst then before.
Does anyone know if the Damper Clutch control can be disabled somehow. I have asked this question repeatedly of the dealer and MMAL, but am not getting a satisfactory answer.
I am interested in hearing from anyone who is experiencing this issue with their 380, or from anyone that has some suggestions on how to resolve the problem.
Hi my problem is my FTO just cuts out when I stop It will restart OK but the idle speed is about half what it normally is and although it will idle at 600 RPM and will increase speed if an alternator load such as headlights is added eventually it just stops
it will restart straight away and once it is away from the kerb it drives normally and no loss of performance or any other note able problems just that when I stop it cuts out Not a great problem on a normal gearbox but mine is an Auto so makes traffic a real nightmare
Any idea's I am not an electronics wiz but do have a fair understanding of the mechanical side of motor vehicles
My car won't start please help me. For some reason the anti theft code was triggered and now I cannot start my car. Is there anyway to reset it without taking it to the dealer. It's a long weekend and I need a car. It's a 380 2005 model Thanks Tim
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Time is now: 24th April 2014 - 07:40 PM
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