Hi all, I just change my 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander cabin air filter. And made a short video clip would like to share with you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY4MsDlepP8

OE Replacement Cabin Air Filter Part No: MR398288

^J^

I have a 2003 Outlander and was wondering what tool and part number so I can remove the crank GEAR and replace the counter balance shaft belt. Thanks for the help

Anyone need this?

^/^

2004 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS AWD (234186Kms) Just lately my daugther kneed my glove compartement and broke the latch. Do not panic. Here is how you can open the glove box without breaking anything. Picture #1 Broken latch: When you lift this latch you will see a slit approximately 1mm by 5mm picture #2. Insert jewellers screw driver pointing strait up even if picture shows at angle; picture #3 then pull screwdriver handle towards you; picture #4 and then open sesame;picture #5. (MR979806)Brown replacement latch but in my case (MR639803) charcoal gray replacement latch (12.46$). Two #0 Philips trust head screws hold the latch in place (last picture). Hope this helps for later problems.

Loud bang today. Looks like whatever keeps the rear spring compressed broke. Spring is now fully extended.

Anyone have experience with this?

My headlights have pitting and spider webs and some cracks. Can I buy new lenses? If so does anyone know where?

2004 AWD Outy with over 100,000 miles bought brand new in 2005.
Driving car normally and for no apparent reason car will not accelerate above 10mph. Get out of traffic, pull over shut down and restart and everything is normal.
This happened about 4 time in the last 2 years.
Everytime I bring it to my shop they see the P2138 code but are unable to find anything wrong after testing and clear the code.
Did some research and found TSB -06-03-011REV issued by Mitsubishi Autgust 2006 describing this as a computer error and needs to be reflashed.
I do not recall ever having this reflash done when it was under warranty and had regular dealer servicing.
Called my local dealer as I do not live close to the original dealer where purchased. They want to charge $60 to reflash but the tech said on the phone "doesn't sound like it's the computer, may be the throttle body". I have a deep distrust of most dealers from past experiences and know they will try to rake every $$$ they can out of customers with older cars so I need advice.

Anyone on this forum have this problem?
Was your computer reflashed?
Should I call Mitsubishi direct customer service and see what they say?

This is a serious issue and could cause accidents.

The transmission seal on the driver's side is leaking. It's the seal that the drive axle goes into. Does the tranny need pulled and the seal goes on the inside, or just pull the axle and replace the seal with the tranny intact? Thanks

Has anyone removed the TransferCase and trans before on their auto outlander? How long does it take and any diagrams or things I should know before hand? I've done trans swaps on my dsms before but not an auto . Please help!

Tried posting this in the audio section here and got zero response after a month!
Hopefully one you Outie owners can give me some advice.

I have a 2004 Outlander with stock Infinity system with amp under seat and CD player in dash. Sound has always been great but about 2 months ago the sound started to cut out now the sound cuts out after a minute when the radio is turned on. Turn off turn on, sound stays on for a few seconds. Turn off turn on no sound. Radio display works fine but no sound. I checked all the connections and everything looks fine. Pulled the radio out and all connections seem fine, poked around with it on but nothing. Pulled out the amp under the seat to check if anything looked weird but found nothing out of the norm. Guessing it is a capacitor gone bad (similar symptoms on a TV I had and was able to fix by replacing the bad capacitor) but I have no in depth knowledge of auto sound systems. I looked at all the capacitors in the amp and none were bulging or looked abnormal.

Does this problem sound like the amp has gone bad?
Is there a way to bypass the amp?
Can the amp be replaced with an aftermarket amp?
Do I have to replace with the same amp?


Looking for anyone with a similar problem and some low cost options.

Does the outlander turbo scoop remove from the hoods? If so does anyone have one or can get it and ship to USA?

So after having a snow storm a few days ago, weather today has been nice and decided to take some photos. Ive has the car for 2 months now and picked up a yakima rack, weather tech floor liners, 20% front tinted windows and some chrome handle covers.

What are you all running for racing seats ? What bolts in and what brackets? Anyone tried putting Evo seats in their car?

I was wondering if the Evo X has the same mounting as 03-06 outlanders. I have a set of Evo X MR bilsteins and shocks in my garage and would love to put them on if that's the case.
-shane

I have an 03 auto and want to convert to manual. Does anyone have a part number for clutch pedal assembly and brake pedal? Does anyone know if the Evo or lancer pedals bolt right in? Thanks
-Shane

I'm trying to set up my sound system by installing an amp but could not find a hole that I can run my positive wire through the fire wall. I notice on the passenger side that there's a bunch of wires that runs through the wall but its already a tight space which I cannot run my wire through.

Anyone knows where the holes are or better yet, where is the best place to drill a hole to run my positive wire through?

Thanks in advance.

Hey there!

I just found out that I have a leak in the front left CV axle. I'm told it costs $800 for the part. Has anyone else had this issue with an Outlander?

Thanks!!

Hi all,
I have a 2006 Outlander 4WD. Recently we got a lot of snow and I noticed that my car is fishtailing like crazy. Straight flat highway with smooth snow/ice covering and it is fishtailing even if I don't press on the gas. It is noticeable between 20-60 MPH ( of course I don't try to go any faster with this)
Any idea what can be the problem? Just to prepare myself for the cost of repair.
Thank you!

Is the 03 outlander the only outlander with drums? If so, can I convert to disk? And if so how and what parts do I need? Thanks
-Shane

2004 Outlander XLS AWD 186000Kms.....Lately when I would release the accelerator and reapply pressure on the pedal, I would hear a thumping noise. Turns out the front supports for the rear differential were beat all to hell. Here is a picture of a new one, the one on the passengers side (Right MR961408, Left MR961407). Bracket was 84$ each plus taxes. You should also replace top and bottom stops at the same time( All 4 stops about 15$). Items 9,10,11 in exploded view. I will post a picture of the destroyed ones when I replace it after snow storm ends. Both bushings are broken. Front wheel drive Outlanders will not have this problem. It took me 15 minutes to change both.

Hey, is there anyone else out there who likes the fun driving off road in the Outty?

I put new shoes on mine a while ago now, but for a far different reason - I use my 00UTY offroad a lot.

Hence the 215/60 16 Bridgestone Duellers - magic! Now rough rocky tracks, sand & mud is soooo easier to drive thru.

Went up the beach for a week just after Christmas, and not a problem at all on the really soft sand.

[attachment=15738:Parked.jpg]
[attachment=15739:oouty_Beach.jpg]
[attachment=15740:Camp.jpg]

We were following a brand new Pajero in very very soft sand on the way to the beach. The Jero started slowing down - eventually coming to a complete halt & was stuck on the belly. We of course got stuck too stopping behind them, but after we got out & drove past the Jero (with no problems at all in the soft stuff) we were told that they were tourists, and didn't engage 4WD! Gooses! The Ouuty doesn't even have low range, & we don't get stuck.....

[attachment=15741:Tourists_Stuck.jpg]

Once back at home, a very thorough clean was required. The sheer amount of sand built up on the suspension & in the engine bay is incredible - 30 minutes with a pressure hose and all that was left was a pile of sand in the driveway!

[attachment=15742:Engine_Bay_Sand.jpg]
[attachment=15743:Sand.jpg]

The Oouty has been up the beach more times than I can count since I bought it in 2003, but no rust at all anywhere - maintenance is the key, and keeping her clean!

Drop by my homepage for more fun off road images:
tinmansplace.multiply.com

Here's a bunch of other images from my family's off road fun:

[attachment=15733:Playing.jpg]
[attachment=15734:Muddy.JPG]
[attachment=15735:Steep.JPG]
[attachment=15736:New_rubber.jpg]
[attachment=15737:Steep_Rear.JPG]

Anyone tested or have the Rigid Industries (or similar) 20' LED Light Bars?

I am looking at getting a 20" for the 00UTY, but want to get some feedback first.
From what I can see, these give a better spread of even crisp white light - but cannot project as far as regular spotlights.

Lemme know if you have seen these in operation, or have them - good & bad feedback....

Also, does anyone know if the 2004 Outlander headlamp assemblies fit into the 2003 model? Looking at the pictures there really doesn't appear to be any overall outside differences, only the arrangement of the lamps inside seem different....

Hi there,

My 2004 Outlander front headlamps are covered so much from haze that visibility is significantly reduced. I've tried these off-the-counter voodoo magic dehazer junk, but to no avail.

The curveball is that the haze is on the inside of the headlamp so cleaning tools cannot reach the junk.

My question is, is the plastic headlamp replaceable or do I have to buy a whole new housing? It's not broken, just seems like it has cataracts haha.

Hope someone can help! =)

Hey all,

Thought I'd share my new wheels for my summer Outlander! I think they make it look a little bit meaner and aggressive. I love it!

Not sure of what's next for my modifications... Any suggestions?

My air con works well for a minute then blows normal air but not warm. I can see that the air con motor stops turning at this time. I had it charged last year and was working fine. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Over the last month or so the old 00UTY has started making what sounds very much like the noise which some lightwieght metal sheet would make if placed close to something rotating slowly.

It only does this in reverse, which makes matters not so bad - just a bit embarassing in the carpark!

Finally a long weekend arrived, and whilst the rest of my family is doing craft (boring) stuff (wife & two lil girls!) I found some time to get into finding the fault.

Put the car up on 4x stands, then put it in reverse - and guess what, no hint of sound! Dropped it again, then as soon as the car was reversed - fracking noise again......

Up on the stands for a better look. Greased all moving parts of suspension, drivetrain & everything else, dropped - same noise (grrrrrrr!)

After lifting it again onto the stands, put it into reverse and started touching things. The exhaust pipe is not able to touch anywhere - ruled that out. Brake protective stone covers not touching anywhere - another one down.

Finally, I bumped my shoulder against the slowly rotating drive shaft, and the noise happened. The holding onto the drive shaft as it rotated, putting pressure onto it - well damn me there is the squeak.

The drive shaft at fault is the first long one after the transmission. (See Photo below) Any pressure at all on this makes it squeak internally - NOT at the universal joint ends. Makes sense then with the wheels off the ground that no tyre or vehicle wieght placing pressure on the driveline - no noise.
[attachment=15601:Drive_Shaft.JPG]
After applying a good slathering of grease on all uni joints, and all other rotating parts along the drive line - still have this noise.

I realise that the drive shafts are hollow for wieght considerations, but what one earth could be causing this squeak?

Any one have an idea - let me know.

For the time being, I will simply put up with the noise during reverse, but if there is a quick fix (apart from replacing the drive shaft!) PLEASE LET ME KNOW........

TIA,
00UTY

I have posted some of this material under other topics, but am looking to see how others have changed the standard lighting (both inside & out) of the Outlander to suit thier personal tastes or needs.

Thus far, the exterior lighting modifications I have completed are as follows:
1. Changed the original 55/60W low/high beam lamps to higher spec of 60/100W for improved night vision
2. Added four 130W spot lights across the front (the bullbar mounts help) bringing a total of 720W of high beam lighting. This is mainly due to me travelling in the Australian outback regularly, now I can see kangaroos and other wildlife in the distance for at least 700m at night.
3. Replaced standard parking light bulbs with high intensity White LEDs.
4. Added LED clearance light bars to each side of the lower front bumper bar. These look neat, but are also handy for driving in fog, or simply as daytime running lights.
5. Added LED lighting underneath each side of the roof rack bars. White facing front, red brake & amber indicators facing rearward.
6. Added 10mm Amber LED side indicator flashers to the front mud flaps for better visibility when changing lanes or turning from the side.
7. Incorporated Red high intensity LEDs intot he rear bumper bar reflectors (the ones underneath the main taillights). Used as daytime running lights & nighttime clearance lights.
8. Incorporated White high intensity LEDs into the sides of the tail light red lens area. These are on as clearance lights with my parking lights, but are wired to flash alternately with my turn signals.
9. Changed the rear licence plate bulb with a white CFFL for improved clarity at night.

The interior additions are as follows:
1. Changed the standard white lighting behind the speedometer for blue with LEDs.
2. Changed the standard white clock lighting for blue LEDs.
3. Changed the Airconditioner standard white control lighting for blue LEDs.
4. Added blue LED "mood" lighting underneath the dash area centre console section. Not visible fromt he driver or passenger seats, simply adds a blue glow around your feet at night.
5. Incorporated high intensity white LEDs into the rear courtesy lamp for improved back seat/cargo area lighting.
6. Added a halogen swivel light over the cargo area to improve available light for loading & unloading tools at night. This is also a great addition when camping.

I have included a few photos below showing these modifications & additions. If anyone wants specifications for any of these lighting mods, or "how to" instructions just ask.

I would love to see what other people have done with regard to the lighting systems on the Outlander. It might give me some more ideas.....

[attachment=15418:White_LED_s.jpg]
White LED bars & Parking lights from front

[attachment=15420:Reflector_LEDs.JPG]
Red LEDs fitted into the Reflectors in the rear bumper

[attachment=15421:Tail_LEDs.JPG]
Rear Tail Lamp/Turn Signal LEDs

[attachment=15422:Mudflap_..._Signals.jpg]
Amber Turn signal LEDs fitted into front Mudflaps (flaps swapped from the rear of the car to the front)

[attachment=15423:Mood_Lights.jpg]
Cabin Mood Lighting

[attachment=15424:Rear_Cab...sy_Light.jpg]
Rear Courtesy Lamp LEDs & Halogen Swivel Lamp

[attachment=15425:Rear_Cab...t_Fitted.jpg]
Cargo area Swivel Lamp (searchign for a cost effective LED bulb repalcement...)

Hi all,

During my 72000km service the dealer noticed that my drivers side rear wheel has some play (you can wiggle it very slightly). His recommended fix was to replace both drivers and passengers side upper control arms in the rear suspension. His quote was $700. The warranty on that part expired at 60000km. This ticked me off a bit. I'm sure the problem was diagnosable at 60000km when I went in for my service. They just waited until now so that they can bill me.

I jacked the car up and it looks to me like just the bushing is worn out. Thats clearly where the linkage is moving around. So my question is: How hard is it to replace the upper control arm bushing?

Hey guys I'm interested in getting some HIDs for my 05 outlander. I was wondering the 05s have the projector low beams if they can go right in with out a conversion kit or do I need the conversion kits?

just installed 6.5in polk db's, went in relatively painlessly aside from the adapters i had to rig for the massive factory speaker holes. considering i have non-paper speakers now can i adjust the factory amp somehow?

Hi there ,

I have mounted a remote car starter , and the chip "knows" the engine started by getting +12V signal from alternator , otherwise will continue to excite the starter forever. this is the last wire I have to discover and connect to remote car start
I want to know what each wires do on the alternator . There is a hard wire going straight to battery , i know what that is doing.

then I have a 4 spade connectors on the alternator marked as EFNA . E supposed to be earth , F field , N neutral , A active or battery sense .

I need to discover which wire gets +12V ( +11V / +14V ) when engine is running , alternator works . I need to connect this to car remote starter so will know engine started and no need to exicte the starter anymore.

Thanks for future answers

Car is intermittently not starting. Power is on, battery tests good.

Turn key and nothing happens. Tried again after several times and waited a few minutes and it starts.
Starter is suspected.
How difficult is it to change.
Where is it? Took a quick look to find it but it seems it is buried near drivers side of engine.
Where is the starter relay as I may replace that 1st?

Hello I have a 2000 GDI Pajero which I use to tow a dual axle caravan 20ft long
I understand that towing a large van will use plenty of fuel but just want to know how to tow efficiently fuel wise.
I have used the tiptronic to change the trans sooner rather than have the auto revving for a longer period.
The Pajero is ideal for towing and is a great vehicle to travel in.

Hey everybody,

I am the owner of a mitsubishi outlander turbo with a 2.0L petrol turbo engine , type 4G63T and 148kW (201 HP ) with a W5M51-2X4B transmission. Couple of month ago i decided to change the fluids in my car so i went to the local mitsubishi dealer , and he provided me mobil1 oils for gearbox, Tcase and rear diff. after a time I started to hear some whining ...then it becamed louder and louder .....so luod like a bad bearing ! was louder then the stereo i had !
one day , inevitable happened .... i hear clunk-buf-clank-bum-clank , i stopped the car .... i looked arround , couldn't saw anything suspicious .
I continued to drive the car home on slow speed , but i could feel some resistance from time to time ...like something braking the transmission and the noise was clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk like iron on iron / steel on steel sound.

Here is the tests i have made:

1. I lift the car , only the front wheels on stands , front wheels being in air , and rear wheels on the ground....I accelerate a little and slowly release the clutch ...... the car did not wanted to move .

2. I lift the car , only the rear wheels on stands , rear wheels being in air , and front wheels on the ground....I accelerate a little and slowly release the clutch ...... the car wanted to move

I said to myself , that's it ! i need a rear differential and problem is solved.
I have replaced the rear differential and then drove the car. At begining there was no clunk-clunk-clunk sound , so i said to myself.... cool, my car is fix ! ....then i accelerate ......and i saw smtg wierd .... i did not had the speed i supposed to have on that RPM ! WTF !??? i drove the car and i saw revs was going as fast as it should be , but speed not ! ...more wierd even in 3rd gear when i push hard the acc pedal .... i could hear the wheels spinning fast ....it seems i still have NO rear traction

I am waiting for opinions and ideas ..... my guess is my Tcase is broke ...is there any rebuild option for it ? maybe a stage 1 upgrade ? stock Tcase sucks !

what oils are recomanded to be used in gearbox , Tcase and rear diff ?

Thank you all for future answers !


I add photos of front transfer case . here they are :


different angle of Tcase:








oil smell bad , don't know the words to explain the smell, but for sure is not factory smell , as you can see , i found there grease + metal "span" ( small or thin parts of metal )





Again that wierd not-normal smell comming from inside the Tcase , but the worst part is just showing up :



using a contact cleaner spray , i tried to reveal what is that "thing" mixed with grease , and i did saw it , thin metal pieces





I lost my mood and curiosity to look inside the Tcase , but here are some photos :





looking deeper :



looking deeper and deeper

I've been PM with Outy here recently, he said he prefers keeping things on a forum level. After searching it appears there are a lot of people who have been having these issues.

In October 2010 (over a yer and a half ago) I had my rear upper control arms replaced on BOTH sides (I thought I had replaced just the one but its def both). At that time I also had my front inner one side outer other side tie rod ends done because of all sorts of tire wear.

Present day: Rear passenger side horrible creaking when I rock the vehicle back and forth in parked position, when I bounce on it up and down and obviously whenever I hit any type of a bump or accelerate/brake.

I've replaced the rear stabilizer bar saddle bushings as they were noticeably worn, but I'm having a very hard time isolating what the squeaking noise is coming from.

Would new upper control arm bushings squeak in this short of a time from being replaced?

Upper links?


I will be working on the suspension myself to find a resolve so anything anybody can offer to help me figure this out is greatly appreciated.


I've ordered from http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com and their prices are about half the list price at my local stealership.

Upper Links: (Dog Bone) $40.86 each.
Upper Control Arm: $45 each.

Hi,

How often should you flush tranny fluid on 2005 outy with 160K on it?



Thanks!

Joey

Looking to replace plugs and wires. Have 100,000 miles on originals. Looking for brand and type recommendations for plugs and wires. Anything else I should consider changing...PVC has 40,000 on it. Belts were changed at 80,000.

My 2004 outlander stalls occassionally when I am at a stop light and I take my foot off the brake and hit the gas. Before I start to even move it dies. It doesn't die while I'm sitting at the light, but only when i hit the gas pedal when the light turns green. No engine lights are on either so i can't run the diagnostic test. Does anyone know exactly what the problem is on this? thanks

Hey guys,

I'm going to be installing one of these in to my 05
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/7-dash-car-GPS-...2#ht_9172wt_982 (cheap and nasty I know )

I was wondering what the best way to run the tv and gps antener would be? I was thinking about installing the gps antener front center of the dash.

I will be getting a infrared reversing cam too.

Hello all, it's been a while since I posted last. did a search but couldn't find specific blow by info. 04 outlander awd 2.4liter 52000 miles, purchased new and impeccably maintained with regular oil changes and babied driving. I'm quite disturbed at how much blow by is present. vehicle running hot or cold, I remove the oil filler cap and there seems to be a LOT of air coming out. I pull the hose after the pcv valve and there's air coming out of there too, so pcv valve is at least functional. there is no way the pcv valve has anything to do with just how much air is coming out of this engine. I have not done a compression test, that is next. Mitsubishi service department doesn't know without me bringing it in (what else is new). the vehicle runs great, it does not burn oil, I don't have any discolored exhaust and engine runs smooth. I was wondering if there is some kind of pump specifically forcing air into the crankcase to create that kind of air pressure. any input appreciated, I will repost when I do the compression test but I do not expect anything amiss there as it runs great. thanks.

I changed the end-links on my front sway bar it helped but I was still getting that clunk-clunk noise whenever I would go over the slightess little bump so today I decided to change the front saddle bushings(OEM Part # MN100250) on the swaybar. Only one bolt (front driver side) was hard to get at because of a power streering hose that runs just above the head forcing me to use a box wrench instead of a ratchet. My Outlander now rides like a new one and it only cost me 20$ and one hour. Finally I can bring the radio volume control down a knotch......
Went for a long ride today it was so pleasant not hearing that klunk klunk. Believe me it is worth it.....

So, Sunday our 05 puts on the CEL and when I check it the report is misfire on cylinder 1.

I replace the plugs, checked the timing. Car is running ok.

I move the ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2 and take the car for a drive. Still running well. After about 40 minutes the CEL comes back on.

When I read it this time it says random misfire.

Is it safe to assume that I need to replace the ignition coil that is now on cylinder 2?

Other suggestions of what to check (and how please )

Thanks,

Steve

OK, so changed the ATF in the outy today... everything worked well... but my problem is.. I can't read the damn dipstick to see where I am at with fluid! I thought the dipstick would be maybe white.. or even metal... but nooooo... it's like some tan color and I can't tell what the damn level is in the transmission! How did it go for everyone else?

My AC on my 2004 Outlander was not blowing as cold as it should so I recharged the system this morning. The gauge on my recharge hose read right in the middle of the marks for the current Ambient Temperature, 86 F. Now when I turn on the AC the RPM Drops as the compressor cycles, at idle almost to a stall, even when on throttle driving, and is blowing warm air instead of cold or even cool. I stopped at Advance Auto to ask about checking the AC and was told, with out looking at or listening, that it was an idle control problem. I am having trouble grasping this as it just started after recharging my system this morning. The compressor is cycling on and off rapidly as it does when it is being charged.

Any thoughts?

Outy

I can see one green and black wire on the back of the brake light bulb housing and two green and one black on the tail light bulb housing. Is the extra green wire on the tail light the unconnected wire you are talking about and if so is it unconnected back further in the harness connection?

[attachment=15584:P1100846.JPG]

Cheers

I disconnected the battery other day to work on the car and it set the alarm straight off. Once it had hushed itself I now find when locking and unlocking the car that it bleeps very loudly with the flashing of the indicators ie; once when unlocking and twice when locking or is it the other way around . Anyway it did'nt do this before, does anyone have any ideas to hush it.

HELP!!
Outlander wound up with an inspection reject, bad right front ball joint (had a 4 wheel alignment done 2 weeks before inspection, bad ball joint WTF?, another topic).
Major problem: the front ( horizontal ) bolt came loose, unscrewed about 2 turns (about 1/8 inch between bolt head flange and crossmember) and then broke loose and spins free, won't move in or out. The bolt threads into the k-member, and is comepletely blind, no access what so ever. Looking for suggestions that do not include changing out the k-member, and thoughts on the only solution I can see: cut a hole in the k-member to get at the (formerly) captive nut, and get the piece welded back in (ticketed welder, not a hacker) and carry on ?
Any and all, feel free to chime in.
Tried the search, only found one about a drivers side FWD control arm with the horizontal bolt seized, but that setup seemed like there was access to the bolt AND the nut.

Hi to all!
This is my 1’st post in Outlander / Airtrek topic.
My name's Robban and I live in Sweden.

I've just bought a Outlander Turbo 2005, I’ve had it for a week now.

I'm interested if anyone of you in here has heard about if some motor-tuning is to be available soon?
As I understand Mitsubishi has fitted a de-tuned version of the Lancer Evo VIII's 4G63 2.0-liter, DOHC, in-line four-cylinder turbo engine, so my thought was, it can’t be so hard to get the de-tuned HP’s back…?

Well, let me know if you have any tips on that one, I’ll let you know if I find something on my own.

So, I did the break in according to http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I did the first oil & filter change after 90 Km. (the oil was really black) and I used 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for the break in period and I’ll still use that oil for the first 2000 Km. After that I’ll use synthetic oil.

The car runs like a bullet and of course it have been drinking some gasoline, the first refuelling I did = 46 litres / 270 Km = 1,7 litres/10 Km.

This is a really fun car to drive and it is my first 4-wheel drive, I couldn’t believe what a grip it gave on the snow, outstanding!

Now I’m waiting for some tuning stuff to be released to it, it has 202 HP now but I don’t think it will be so expensive to gain at least 30-40 HP extra, I’ll let you know when this is done.

BTW, please read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
And give me your opinions, I found it to be VERY interesting and totally against my belief!! I’ve just used that model to break in my new car, so far so good, it has been runned for 410 KM by now and it runs better and better!

Best regards to you all, have a nice week. /Robban
(please excuse my bad English, it’s been 25 years since my schooldays ;-))

2006 Otlander AWD. About 80.000km only


Leak is NOT coming from the Power Steering Pump gasket or eye bolt. It is leaking slightly below the eye bolt, closer to metal/rubber joint on the Pressure Hose assembly.
I suppose it's not coverred by 10 year warranty :-). Is there a recall for this item? Did anyone have this issue?

Any idea where can i get it cheap?
*http://img1.cdn.tradejob.net/Y201011501M190P10924249Fa/201_850429008483/Mitsubishi+Outlander+Pressure+Hose+OEM.jpg

Thx.