Opening this new topic in order to share with all outy turbo Owners some interesting info as of the outy turbo total improvement, ie engine tuning (including intercooler front mounted), remapping of the ecu, brakes upgrade, total exhaust system etc.
Starting with a photo whithout the front bumper to evaluate whether it is possible to fit an ix evo intercooler or not:

Hi, I am looking for the workshop/service manual for Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo 2003 (CU2W, 4G63T). Anyone have it or know where can I get a copy of it.

Thank you very much

My Mitsu dealer informed me that to keep the warranty I must have the tranny fluid flushed and refilled every 30,000 miles and this is not covered in my free maintenance coverage. Tranny fluid used must be factory made SP3 Diamond not available any where else except dealer. Is this correct?

What size socket or allen wrench will I need to remove the fill and drain plugs on each of these ? What aftermarket oil meets the Mitsu spec ? I only found a Rear Diff 80W90 GL5 from Amsoil so far. Nothing for the transfer case yet.

Ref 2003 Outlander - Canadian model

hi ,anyone looking for a service manual. try this link to ebay, where i got a service manual for airtrek turbo, they have for all different types of mitsubishi.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Diamond-Auto-Parts-Ltd.

LATEST OFFER!!!! ECU TUNING FOR MIT.AIRTREK ..... TO REMOVE SPEED CUT ONLY RM 288, SECOND STAGE TUNING REMOVE SPEED CUT, BOOST CUT, REV CUT ONLY RM388, AND FOR REMAPING INCLUDING OF REMOVE SPEED CUT,BOOST CUT,REV CUT, AIR/FUEL MAP TUNING ONLY RM 788 LIMITER TIME ONLY........PLS CONTACT MR.KENT 0162674621 . WE ALSO PROVIDE ECU TUNING FOR MIT. EVO, SUBARU WRX..

Just wondering what people were getting per liter or gallon?

So far my outie is performing a little under for what is rated for....im getting 6.6 litter per KM or 15.7 mpg?

What are some things to improve the MPG that have to do with the engine.....or car itself....?

thanks

Since this seems to be an Int'l Forum, just wondering if anyone has any information on availablity of any aftermarket (beefier) Sway Bars aka Stabilizer Bras aka Anti-Roll Bars?

The OEM items seem like token stuff... so wimpy... only about 10-12mm thick (guesstimation, I didn't actually measure it)

I reckon before I start to do suspension mods, controlling the (excessive) body roll would be my priority.

Cusco doesn't make them it seems...

Anyone know any manufacturer who does?? Or anyone already found and using one??

Please share your information.

Thanks!!

Ever wonder what the plastic air box does on top of the intake manifold on models over 2003? I was wondering the same so I removed it to see. No noticeable differences in driveability or sound, so it's not a muffler. Well I'm not positive but I think it acts as a capacitor for the airflow sensor. The only place where I saw a difference , while monitoring the airflow sensor. Pulses and fluctuations are all ironed-out with the air box installed. So I don't know if it si there to protect the sensor from excessive swing or just to get a better average voltage from the sensor (maybe both). Maybe it's just reserve for when you step on it. Does anybody know the real reason for this add-on in 2004?

If I hold the throttle at 1250 revs I get a vibrating noise from the engine when sitting in the drivers seat. When you look under the bonnet its hard to notice. My LPG installer says its the mixer , but the noise is still there when running petrol.
Its going into the dealers in 3 days anyway because of a squeek from behind the timing belt cover. Anyone else had these problems?

I just purchased a 2004 Outlander that was originally a lease vehicle from south Florida. Both headlights have what appear to be stress cracks and crazing. I have observed the same type of cracks and crazing on other 2003 and 2004 Outlanders (in fact, of the four used Outlanders I looked at before buying this one, all of them had cracks in the headlights). Fortunately the cracks do not appear to go through the entire headlight lens, and neither headlight is taking in water, but they are unsightly, to say the least. Anyone else have this problem? Anybody know of a source for new or used uncracked headlight assemblies?

Can someone tell me where the Oil Pressure sensor is located on the 03 Outlander and also the gas filter. I would like to replace them both. Thanks in advance.

Hi,
I have a 2003 outlander awd. It is coming due for a timing belt. Most dealerships by me want Aprox 475 for the belt alone to 800-900 including the water the pump and accessories belt. I am a good mechanic but not by trade. I am having trouble locating a manual for this truck. I would like to be able to view the procedure somwhere if at all possible.
My question is: is it worth doing this job myself, and if so what special tools (if any) would I need, or should I let the stealership do it and call it a day?
Thanks
AL

Recently got a 04 Outlander awd. Here are some more specific comments and questions about the Outlander so far.


There have been some changes I have made to it already since purchase.


Things I have had installed or done myself so far
-I had visions install a car starter and alarm system. Great price and install. The thing the made me happiest which is a plague with a lot of chipped key vehicles is the requirement of a sacrificial key in a key box. Visions was able to equip the Outlander with a system that didn't require that. Every other place I went to they wanted the sacrificial extra key to make the system work. I suggest looking to them for a security system. They got the starter and security system in for about a total cost that was 75% the price of every single other place I went to.
-Also had visions install a nice JVC-ABT22. I was after bluetooth capabilities due to my work and sometimes getting client calls while driving. The only other drawback to the stock stereo is the lack of AUX in which even if i didn't need to answer calls while driving I do at least want to be able to use an mp3 player for road trips, usually keep to radio though for the short commute to work. Had Sirius installed in the end though just for resale, that and they were already working on the dash to change the desk so why not get it done all at once.
-Picked up some window vent visors from Southside Mitsu was surprised that at $120 they were cheaper then similar generics I found. Haven't installed them yet but that's coming soon.
-Also grabbed some mudflaps from them. Was really happy with how easy the install was. The first one took me a bit of time but the first one always does. Had to figure out a good way to scrape away the undercoating I had done before I picked it up, from the screws that need to be taken out for the mounting. The rears required a drill but honestly it's empty plastic in the back and took 2 seconds of drilling on each side. Took longer to get in and out from underneath to actually do the drilling.
-The hood bug deflector what ever you want to call it was also quite happily simple and strait forward to install, and really is a nice touch.


Things I'm looking for. I have had a really hard time finding any kind of parts except strait form the dealership. Note it's has the standard Canadian Mivec + Blockheater for where it is relevant below. I'm also from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada where shipping/stores are relevant. I do apologize if these have been brought up before or mentioned I did scan through the forum posts but i was bound to miss posts.
-Fog light kit, ~$240 for a complete kit from Southside mitsu is a pretty reasonable price i guess.. since I don't have to mess around with custom mounting etc. Has anyone installed any others besides the ones from the dealership or know a better place to get them. Plus a rock knocked out part of the dummy inserts that fill the hole where the fog lights go. That also means I'd be looking for the steel masks or whatever they are called.
-Air intake, looking under the hood and looking at how they currently get air into the engine I definitely think an after market air intake could be quite beneficial. Has anyone found a kit for these. I thought of doing something a bit custom but I would really rather go with a kit that's already meant for the vehicle.
-I was also looking at swapping the stock muffler. I can't remember which model it was but a local shop did mention a Magnaflow model that would fit nicely where the stock one is. Has anyone swapped the mufflers on these and have any specific suggestions?
-I'll be keeping with the castrol GTX for the time being, however I found lots of references to Royal Purple in mitsu's but i didn't come across a post for it in Outlanders. Has anyone done so, good, bad, ugly results? Worth the extra cost of the oil etc?
-Are there any other simpler changes available for these I have missed. I'm not intending to do anything like putting i a 300hp evo engine or start installing turbo chargers etc. Just looking for some other suggested mods to just step it up with efficiency/power a touch. I have averaged 26mpg highway (no accurate calculation for in town yet). so I have a bit of room to move either direction.
-Does anyone happen to have a crashed Outlander or something in the Edmonton area with 3 head rests for the back seats. I'd prefer not to have to ship them if possible. Haven't talked to Southside about them but probably should check there too.


Concerns
-Besides things like the rear end dog bones etc that will need replacing since toyota did a patch job and the mitsu mechanic commented on tire wear. The alternator needed replacing. Typical for an Outlander under 60,000km?
-At about 58-61kph on flat ground with the accelerator pressed ever so slightly and I mean slightly or with cruise control on I find that there is a higher pitched noise from the engine compartment, higher at least compared to the rest of the engine noises. Kinda sounds like it's coming from the passenger side also. Any ideas? It's hard to snag sometimes but my commute to work is 60kph for part of the distance so I'll hit the spot quite often. But the moment I release or press the gas the noise immediately goes away, and doesn't happen at any other point that have tested right up to around 180.



EDIT: Forgot 1 item. I read a lot of posts about the wiring to the automatic's gear shifter. Making the sports shift mode not function etc. Is the lettering supposed to light up beside the gear shift. It does appear to be a transparent lettering that I could imagine a light behind. I know there is the light for the gear next to the tac making it not really necessary for the gear shifters letters to light up as well. I just wanted to check in case it is the sign of things to come.

Hello
I have 2006 outlander turbo and we make some changes.
-cat remove
-76mm exhaust sistem
-hks bov
-walbro fuel pump
-front mount intercooler
-exedy Twin Plate Clutch kit
-hks evc 5

We need to remove boost cut and ecu map But we couldn't read ecu by ecuflash.
we plug thin black cable( at tactric) to green cable at the car but we could not read.

Anyone can help me how to connect it and read ecu by a dagram or picture


if it is imposible to read 2006 outlander turbo i need a standalone ecu. which one can i choose

thanks

Guys,

there is a late 2006 Outlander Turbo located in eastern Slovakia, city of Michalovce. In case you think you can use some of parts which did not got lost in the forrest where this car crashed, just PM me. Providing CAPS part product number will be most effective. I am able to ask people for pricing. The price will be puzzled from the cost for de-mounting, shipping if requested (Europe only) and the part price itself. Front of the car and tail are completelly gone. Front radiator's fans are available, but not checked for function. On the other hand, the interior is almost untouched, seats and door windows available etc. See pictures.

[attachmentid=7921] [attachmentid=7923]

This is a nice crash test view as well. Let me tell you that the driver was driving to the dealer for winter tyres. On those shitty Geolandar G035 (this season is the last one I tolerate them). It was late November 2007 and roads were slippy and wet. The driver underrated a long and fast 60-70 degrees curve and in about 130 kmh he left the road in slow spin. First impact in the ditch to the tail, then after "sailing over" to the other side of the road front of the car crashed in opposite ditch. The 55 years old driver had just small scratches on face and hands. Good protection, quite high safety level I think.

Guys,

I have a 2003 Outlander (~70k miles/112 km). The car looks great, everything is fine. The 'only thing' is that the transmission in SPORTS MODE doesn't work anymore. It is hardly used and I don't know why is not working...nothing is shown on the driver panel. The automatic transmission works perfectly. I wonder if the problem is electronic-related, otherwise, the whole transmission (automatic/semi-automatic-SPORTs MODE) would be dead...that's my guess...

So, I need to repair...and I need to find a mechanics for that (at the moment, here, I don't know anyone that I can trust). Well, have anyone experienced such problem before, would guess what would be the cause and what should be done (and estimate the costs). Just to have an idea when I see the technician...

thanks,
Alex

The owner's manual on my 06 SE Outie calls for adjusting the vlaves at around 30k miles or whenever is necessary. I have had the car for almost 2 years now, and have always changed the oil on a regular basis, 6k miles Mobil 1 Full syn 5w30, and OEM oil filter. (I know this is prob. too frequent) The car is not driven hard, and most of the miles are highway miles.

I pulled the rocker cover and went to check the valves. I found that all of them where within specs. My question is: When does this need to be done? The dealer told me it must be done every 2 years and they charge about 120 for the check. But when I checked them they didnt need it. I have not owned a car that needed this in over 10 years, as most modern cars have hydraulic valve lifters, but the 4G69 dosnt.

Does anyone have a 4G69 with high milege? How often do the valves even need to be checked? If at all?


Thanks in advance!

Because existing sources of auto reliability information left much to be desired, in late 2005 I started conducting my own reliability research at TrueDelta.com. TrueDelta reports absolute stats like "trips to the shop" that make the differences between cars much clearer. Results are updated four times a year, so any significant changes in a model's reliability become apparent quickly.

Participants simply report repairs the month after they occur on a one-page survey. When there are no repairs, they simply report an approximate odometer reading four times a year, at the end of each quarter.

To encourage participation, panel members will receive full access to the results for free.

For the details, and to sign up to help out:

Auto reliability research--need more Outlanders and Airtreks!

Don't get me wrong when my Outlander works well I love it, it's the best riding vehicle I've ever owned and I've had 17 GMs from Citation to S10's and full size chevrolet. But it seems to me that suspension parts keep going bad prematurely on my Outlander. It was wearing tires inside in the back had to replace dogbones now it's wearing tires inside in the front and both inner tie-rods are bad. Is this normal for Japanese imports.........? LOVE MY MITSUBISHI BUT HATE THOSE TRIPS TO THE GARAGE.

I changed the end-links on my front sway bar it helped but I was still getting that clunk-clunk noise whenever I would go over the slightess little bump so today I decided to change the front saddle bushings(OEM Part # MN100250) on the swaybar. Only one bolt (front driver side) was hard to get at because of a power streering hose that runs just above the head forcing me to use a box wrench instead of a ratchet. My Outlander now rides like a new one and it only cost me 20$ and one hour. Finally I can bring the radio volume control down a knotch......
Went for a long ride today it was so pleasant not earing that klunk klunk. Believe me it is worth it.....

hi folks

I've noticed my front end seems to be making clunking and thumping noises when going over speed bumps, pot holes or rough surfaces.

I had a drop link replaced a few months ago, what else is likely to be causing such a noise?

any help appreciated!

The lift supports for the rear hatch gave out last month on my 03 Outlander (115,000 miles on the odometer). Order a new set from ricartparts.com
The removal/installation process is fairly simple. Here’s how I did it with my neighbor’s help:

Removal…
Prop open hatch by using a 6 foot step ladder as the support
Before unbolting the upper brackets of the lift supports, use a long flat head screw driver to pop off the lower part of the support. This is a ball/socket set up. Use a cloth between the screw driver and the door frame to prevent damaging the car’s paint. (Upper = part of support attached to door frame, lower = part of support attached to door.)
Unbolt the upper brackets. Using a socket, a short extension, and socket wrench makes the process easier.

Installation…
Attach the upper end of the support to the frame. Remember the lift supports are side specific.
With the ladder still in place as the prop, lift the door such that you can align the socket of the support with the ball of the door. (The door still has several inches of vertical movement with the ladder in place.) Use your hand to pop the socket onto the ball.

Hi all,

During my 72000km service the dealer noticed that my drivers side rear wheel has some play (you can wiggle it very slightly). His recommended fix was to replace both drivers and passengers side upper control arms in the rear suspension. His quote was $700. The warranty on that part expired at 60000km. This ticked me off a bit. I'm sure the problem was diagnosable at 60000km when I went in for my service. They just waited until now so that they can bill me.

I jacked the car up and it looks to me like just the bushing is worn out. Thats clearly where the linkage is moving around. So my question is: How hard is it to replace the upper control arm bushing?

Does US outlander (05-06) has the same front brake discs as European Turbo?? I mean dimensions. Does anybody know? I want to order Rotora from USA, but there's no dimensions in catalogue...

Hi all

can anyone tell me how to adjust the footbrake (handbrake) on a 2.4 Mivec Auto (4wd) UK model.

My footbrake is useless even on a gentle slope the car will roll forwards. I hate using the gearbox park as i feel it must put a strain on the auto box?

any help appreciated!!!

cheers!

Ok, New here and rookie mech....I got Service Engine Soon light the other day
engine was still running OK...drove home from work parked it went to bed....went to start this morning and battery was flat dead...10.5 Volts.....charged battery all day still dead... exchanged battery.....restarted engine and stalled after 4 starts engine running fine and no Service engine....I understand the codes were reset during battery being disconnected and changed...my concern is I had no indication the battery was bad (no slow crank etc) is this possible the service engine light came on because of battery failure?...the battery light never did come on....going to drive for few days and see waht happens....this is a great site glad I found it....
------------
rookietech

Can somebody confirm what is the battery specs of the outlander turbo?
ie 12v 57Ah 460A ???

JRM-racing now offers tuning for Outlander. Pls check www.jrm-racing.se

They know offers tuning where they use the originl ECU and via service outlet actually overwrites original software.

Really shorter spool-up and better response, much more HP as well.

Approx 250 Hp with std exhaust and 400 Nm, step 2 is more upgraded software suitable for full flow exhaustsystem, power?? More at least.

Boost with race exhaustsystem approx 1,4 bar. Horsepower...well a bit more than 250 Hp

BRGDS TOJ

getting a loud noise from the blower fan, located under the glove box. when examining to remove the fan, i find 2 brass screws that are easily accessable, and when removed, allow the front of the fan to drop slightly.

what i can't see is what is holding the rear of the fan in place. there is a large wiring harness that obstructs much of the view of the rear (firewall side) of the fan, and it is incredibly awkard trying to get a good look back there.

does anyone have any experience removing this fan? it seems that i am missing something rather obvious, as the fan is otherwise completely accessable. is there another screw in the back i can't see?

i have enclosed a picture of the fan i found online. unfortunately, the 2 visible mounting holes in the pic are the ones i have access to. wish i could see what is on the hidden side.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[attachmentid=7928]

My a/c quit blowing cold one day. I switched the a/c on and off and got it to work again. This went on a week. Then my headlights and a/c started staying on without the keys in ignition and the compressor would run without keys in. The battery died because of these problems. Any help?

does anyone know if the speedometers can be recalibrated? mine is way out at indicated 70mph - GPS shows as 63mph.

any info appreciated!