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Dirt cheap, great on gas and nothing more by Aaron Gold
From the moment we first laid eyes on the Mitsubishi Mirage, we were pessimistic. Forgettable styling, a miniscule engine, a sub-$14k price tag and Mitsubishi's penchant for low-rent interiors -- none of it boded well for the baby Mitsubishi, nor did the fact that the Mirage was originally designed for developing markets like Thailand, where it is built.
And yet point-by-point, the Mirage makes a passable attempt to address all of our concerns.
The Mirage's body was designed for aerodynamics rather than style. The shape may be plain, but Mitsu has dressed it up with bright paint colors named by their Facebook fans: Plasma Purple, Kiwi Green, Sapphire Blue and Infra-Red. (The less-adventurous can get their Mirage in black, white, gray or silver.) Tall, skinny tires help mask the car's tiny size, which is underscored by a set of 14-inch wheels. For reference, it's four-inches longer than a Chevy Spark but a foot shorter than a Honda Fit.
Under the skin, the Mirage makes extensive use of high-strength steel to provide good crash protection with light weight. The front-end structure is bolted on, not welded, which makes for cheaper repairs after a minor collision and, subsequently, lower insurance rates.
INTERIOR: BLAND OR JUST BAD?
The interior is not nearly as dreadful as we feared; the dash is well organized and the plastics from which it is made are no worse than any of the Mirage's competitors. The door panels are pretty dire, however, with chintzy hard plastic in the places we would have liked to rest our elbows, but the doors themselves shut with a reassuring thunk, although you have to slam them pretty hard to get them to close.
The front seats could use with some improvement. We gave the Mirage a sporting chance by assigning our shortest writer to review it, but even at 5'6" he found the bottom cushion lacking thigh support and the backrest too stiff. The back seat is a shapeless bench that provides little meaningful support, though legroom is fairly decent.
SEE ALSO: Sub-Compact Car Buyerâ€™s Guide
The Mirage has three seat belts in the back, but anyone thin enough to occupy the middle position could probably fit just as easily into the glovebox. Cargo space is a grocery-bag-friendly 8.3 cubic feet; dropping the split-fold rear seat provides room for suitcases.
Long time no post, guys but I feel compelled to help others.
This is a long post, but I want you guys to follow my thinking and experience because I know I'm not alone with this issue, and I believe it will help. I have a 2000 mirage with the 1.5 liter 12 valve.
For any car suffering from valve lash noise, clicking, whatever and want to do this job themselves, I want to outline what I did to finally make it go away. For years I had the dreaded embarrassing click clack click clack click which came and went, cold or hot. The clicking would go away sometimes if I do a restart, which I attributed to an immediate burst of oil pressure. It would click less when I did a 10w30 oil change and worse when I used 5w30, dino or synthetic. Anyway, this started years ago. I first cleaned all the valve lashes as per factory service manual and bulletin, using diesel fuel a few years back and it helped nothing. I did motor flush several times, even driving with it in the crankcase for a few miles, tried marvel's mystery oil, tried seafoam in the crankcase as well. I tried that absolute nonsense revving to 3000rpms over 15 seconds thing that's all over the internet about air bleeding the lashes too. I would get some results for a few miles only and then the noise would return. Finally after 2000 miles since my last 5w30 synthetic oil change at 192k miles, when the clacking was at it's peak I decided enough is enough. I put the car on ramps and drained the oil and removed the oil filter. After it cooled down, I removed the valvecover and slowly took off the valve lashes individually, no special tools at all but kept a magnet handy, and this time removed the rocker arm tubes as well. I kept the rocker tubes and rocker arms intact and set them aside. Nothing seemed bad. I even checked each rocker arm while slowly turning over the engine manually before removal, trying to pinpoint which lashes were at fault but all were nice and firm, no play. I guess they were all full when I shut the car off and didn't have time to lose their pressure. This time I did a couple of modification to the factory service manual and bulletin procedure. I filled three steel bowls with KEROSENE instead of diesel. I threw all the lashes in the first bowl, not caring about keeping them in order. cleaned each lash by pumping the plunger while holding the steel wire in the hole maybe 30-40 pumps and threw it into bowl number 2. did that for each of the 12 lashes. did the same thing in bowl number 2 and finally again in bowl number 3 and left them soaking in the bowl overnight. Each and every lash was incompressible when full. I'm pretty strong and I tried as hard as I could but they wouldn't compress unless I depressed the internal ball with wire. I did notice that each and every lash had significant side to side play at the plunger. I could move the plunger sideways and also turn the little snap ring that held them in place and hear it click side to side, NOT down. I also measured each lash and got 26mm for each one. I went to the autoparts store and compared with a brand new one. Even the new one had side to side plunger play, though not nearly as much as mine but the new snap ring was immovable. I thought sheeet, I'll have to get all new lashes and they aren't cheap! I then figured it really isn't that hard to replace lashes, so I'll give it another go with the old ones and see. I went home and carefully slid off the rocker arms from the rocker shaft and made sure to organize them so they are in the right order. two at a time,I'd soak the rocker arms in kerosene, then used carb and choke cleaner with the little red tube and sprayed all holes of all rocker arms. there is a hole from the rocker tube that lines up with the rocker arm that supplies the lash. there is also a very small hole at the top of the rocker arm that allows excess oil to escape. all forced clean with the red tube carb spray both forwards and backwards. you can bend the red tube from the spray to get into the corners and feed holes and watch it come out the other end.. Then onto the rocker tubes, checked for scoring or other defects, and each and every hole was sprayed clean. I used a needle to make sure the tiny oil holes weren't blocked and sprayed everything twice and lubed it with new oil and reassembled them with the rocker arms in order and set it aside. I did not come across any obvious blockage, all channels appeared clean. I even sprayed down the holes in the engine block that supplied the rocker tubes. they didn't go far before hitting the camshaft, but I did it anyway. while the lashes were soaking overnight an idea popped into mind. I was going to go a different route than the factory at the last fill of the lashes. the bulletin says to depress the internal ball with wire and fill the lash by releasing the plunger. THIS TIME, I depressed and held the plunger down, THEN REMOVED THE WIRE and THEN released the plunger. The idea being this would force the lash to suck up kerosene using only the side fill hole of the lash. If you think about it, when youare using the wire to depress the steel ball and holding it open, kerosene willfly in and out of that same hole while your filling it. I wanted to chase kerosene into that lash the same way that oil would go, which is from the SIDE hole. So, the wire would be used to depress the internal ball, compress the plunger and hold it, then remove the wire, and THEN release the plunger. this would flush the fill hole of the lash with good ol' kerosene. I did that several times and noticed a significant vibration in the lash while the lash was sucking up kerosene and knew I was onto something. Then I asked God to bless my work (I am FAR from an ideal Christian, but I like to ask for his blessings when I'm at my wit's end) and put it all together, then filled the crankcase with new synthetic 5w30 (the exact same oil that made the noise worse before) and a new oil filter. I rolled the car downhill in gear with engine off slowly to build oil pressure, I didn't want an immediate startup with bone dry rocker tubes and rocker arms. Guess what my friends? To my dismay the clacking was still there immediately after startup. I was about to throw a child-like fit, then decided to drive around and see if perhaps the kerosene was seeping out and perhaps the air trapped in the rocker tubes and rocker arms needed to get bled out. well, within a mile, I kid you not, the noise disappeared. No nonsense revving, no spirited driving at all, and now 20 miles later, the noise is gone. I know it's fixed. I couldn't travel any length of road without it clacking for months now. this will help anyone with valve lash noise. I believe the key is to REMOVE THE WIRE holding the internal ball and allowing the lash to fill with it's side fill hole like 10 times each instead of keeping the wire in there and pumping like the bulletin states. As far as the guys who replaced lashes and still had the noise, I'd recommend taking off the rocker arms and rocker tubes and cleaning them out as well, very important. If that doesn't work, then you must have low oil pressure or are aerating the oil somehow, like with low or high oil level and/or a broken pickup tube which is sucking in air in your crankcase. But before you go hunting for an oil port to hook up a oil pressure gauge or taking off your oil pan to hunt for a broken tube, try my method. I hope this helps.
I bought a 2014 Mitsubishi Mirage and I thought I had all of the doors locked and noticed that my hatch door does not lock. It does not even have a key lock on the outside to lock/unlock it. Is it not standard to have a lock on the hatch door? Do I have to have one installed after market?
What was happening when it was colder was I would start the car in the morning and I would notice my clock light going from dim to normal brightness kind of with the rhythm of the engine. After a while it would stop the dimming and stay on bright as usual as the alternator was now supplying the amps. The other night I was driving home with the lights on and after about 10 minutes driving the belt squeaked and the headlights and the clock light all brightened up. So I thought maybe it's just a belt issue. I replaced the belt and the lights are still dim. I cleaned all the contacts on the battery terminals as well and still nothing. I have now also replaced the alternator, hot lead wire from the alternator to the battery and checked the battery ground connection. Still not charging.
Does anyone have any thoughts about what might be going on?
The alternator also has a connector with four wires. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this connector?
hi guys, I took my daughters 97 mirage 1.5ltr for a drive today. I got about 200mtrs down the road and stopped at an intersection. when I went to drive away the motor died on the hit of the throttle. it restarted ok and idled fine but would die when the throttle was opened.limped home and found I can rev the motor up if I don't open the throttle too fast, but step on the pedal and the motor sounds like it starving and dies. I'm not efi savvy and I've checked for split and loose hoses etc.. I'm going to change the fuel and air filter tomorrow. I've read through a fair few of the posts here and some are similar but not quite what . you know same same but different. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So my Colt's tranny had a stroke at 60mph. I always said i would drive it until the engine or tranny gave out...and the day has come. She was a good car. Owned it for over 8 years and put 94,000 miles on her for a total of 239,500 miles. Take out the cost of new tires and a couple of windshields and my repair costs averaged $30 per month.
But of the three cars I owned, '89 volvo 744 (250,000 miles), '92 volvo 944 (310,000 miles) and the Colt I never thought the baby would be the first to go.
I've had this problem for quite some time now. I'll drive it all day long, no problem, runs great and the next day the batt is dead.
I did some research and came across parasitic amp draw. So i bought a decent Multimeter and started checking the amperage drains. On the 10 amp setting, it reads 0.22 amps. So i didnt know if that was a lot, a little or just right. What i read was its kind of high. So i began my investigation and finally found a fuse that is causing the problem but has now led me to more confusion.
The picture is a little hard to see but the fuse that is causing the problem is number 14, which reads "dome light, clock, radio, luggage compartment light, combination meter, door lock control unit (1993), engine control module, and what looks like transaxle control module"
I have an amplifier and 2 subs but i unhooked those, i unhooked the radio and still the same. I installed an aftermarket voltmeter gauge connected directly to the battery through a fused wire. I unhooked that and dropped it to 0.16 amps. I thought it could also be the after market neon lights i linked to the door jam switch, i unhooked those and still 0.16
As i was in the middle of writing this inquiry, i wanted to double check the radio because i wasn't confident in my findings beforehand. (the car has been sitting for 30 mins with the battery unhooked) I unplugged the radio, the defroster connector and hazard light connector. I checked again the amps, and it went down to 0.13. I unhooked the voltmeter and then it went down to .06 which is were it is currently staying. I re-connected the radio, the amps stayed the same, i re-connected the hazards connector, stayed the same, i reconnected the defroster and it stayed the same at .06 amps.
I am still not confident that this .06 amps will remain the case because i really did not change anything or unhook anything except for the neon lights. I took the ground off the amplifier, but the hot wire wasn't connected in the first place so i do not think the amplifier made any difference. I do not think the neon lights made a difference because they were hooked to the door jam switch and turned off when the door was closed. Is .06 amps high? I also wonder, since this fuse is linked to the ECM, is the ECM drawing amps as well and is .06 normal for an ECM.
Could a capacitor in the radio have been causing the .22 reading, and after sitting for 30 minutes dissipated(for lack of a better word)?
By the way, the car is a 95 Plymouth Colt with a 1.8
Some additional information: I have an after market tachometer hooked up, when i remove the fuse in question, it doesnt work. I do not know where the power wire is because a friend of mine hooked it up. It does have different color back lights, but those only turn on with the ignition. I also have a trio of gauges hooked up (voltmeter, water temp(not electric) and oil pressure (not electric)) These all have back lights and i spliced them into the tail light power wires so when i turn the headlight switch on, they come on with it.
I don't think this has anything to do with it, but tomorrow i will make sure.
Any ideas, tips, suggestions? Thank you in advance.
I have a Colt 1,3 from 2006, with just shy of 200.000km. Lately the gearchange has been acting strangely. When i get in and start the car, the gearchange is nice and precise, and the stick stays in place - this is the case for the first 10-20 minutes of driving. Then it starts becoming unprecise, a bit stiff, and ultimately ends up jumping out of gear and into neutral when in idle and the clutch is down.
Any ideas as to what causes this?
There's no grinding or sounds that would indicate misalignment of anything, only the above mentioned symptoms.
Hope someone can help, as I haven't been able to find any posts covering this subject.
Hi All, I have a 1990 Eagle Vista with a 1.5l mitsubishi engine 4speed trans. I am looking for a G36C 1.8l Turbo engine. Do any of u know where i could purchase that specific engine? I am also looking for aftermarket tail lights. Any and all info will be greatly appreciated.
1994 Eagle Summit ESi 1.8l (4G93 engine) Auto (F4A22-2 transmission)
So, car has been sitting for about a year after an issue last spring where the car lost all forward/backward motion. Shifter will go through all the gears, but car will not drive. Engine started fine and such.
Current belief is that the issue is the transmission inhibitor switch/neutral safety switch. Looks like this (roughly, don't have the actual part unfortunately)
Any other thoughts on what it could be? Roommate that was driving it at the time said it suddenly started revving super high so he shut it off, then upon restarting it had nothing. This makes me believe its the transmission inhibitor switch from what I've read in the repair guide for the F4A22-2. Now my problem is finding one that is off of an actual summit/colt/mirage. Some searching suggests that the Eagle Talon also has the F4A22-2 transmission for the 90-94 years but would the inhibitor switch be the same in a different car?
Found one on ebay that looks like it has the same plug as the summit but not sure if it is right.
Hello, I recently got a, 89 colt wagon, not the vista. It's a 1.8 FI 4wd 5 speed. It starts easily, it runs very smoothly, has as much power as you'd expect for a 1.8. If you drive less than 30 mph there is no problem at all. However at any speed above that , usually between 35 and 40, it will shut down, no sputtering, it will just shut off as though you turned the key off. Not sure if it makes a difference, but the warning lights don't come on unless you wait about 5 seconds. If you wait about 2-3 seconds, turn the key off, then back on , it will restart. No matter how long you wait, it won't restart if you don't turn the key to the off position first. To make it more confusing, if you accelerate aggressively, it will go right past 30-35 and keep on going. If you try to maintain speed 50-60 for example, it will die randomly, maybe every couple seconds, maybe a couple miles down the road. But every time it does it, its the same thing, it just shuts down, and after 2-3 seconds and turning the key off, it will fire right up. The ECU is a rebuilt unit, rebuild in 2011. It shows signs where the original caps had leaked and the board had been repaired, the current caps are not showing any signs of leakage. Attaching a volt meter to the obd1 port gives a series of short pulses which the charts say is "normal state" The CEL light comes on with the rest of the indicator lights, but goes off after the car is started. No CEL while running. The service required light is on. Have any of you experienced, or even heard of this problem before? I really love this car and want to figure out how to fix it. Thanks everybody.
and an update. today was the first time I drove it when the engine was completely cold. It ran perfectly for almost 4 miles, gradual acceleration didn't cause any problems when you hit 35. But after I hit about 3.75 miles it was back to the deal like yesterday.
my radiator developed a hole the other day. its been replaced and nuthin' seems to be wrong with regard to the block and head gasket but i noticed that only one of the two cooling fans was kicking on.
there is only one fuse for both fans but one relay for both fans. i switched the position of the relays but the same fan came on and the same fan stayed off. the one that dont work will run when jumper wires are used to connect it to the battery.
any ideas on where i go from here.
its a '94 Colt, 1.8 liter...234,000 miles and 1 bullet hole.
Well, after a couple of valve bodies and no success in getting the car to shift any better, I'm scrapping this sum beech. If anyone needs any small parts, let me know. I'll pull them and sell them at a very reasonable price and of course, there will be shipping charges. The headlights are in excellent condition as well as mirrors and few other pieces. Most every body panel had a ding or dent, and I won't ship anything large anyway. Too hard to package and too expensive for anyone that buys it. I'm not draining the gas, oil, trans fluid or radiator either. I'm done, done, done. It will probably be gone in 48 to 72 hours and tomorrow, (Wednesday) will be the only day I can pull parts. So, hurry up if you need something. If nobody wants anything, that's okay. I'll be bidding you all a fond farewell as all I have left are Mopars and that's what I'll be driving from now on. Thanks for all of your kind words and information. You guys rock!
I was going to do this later. But since I'm experiencing electrical problems anyway, I may as well do it now and start eliminating some things. when I first saw this car, I wanted to make it a "tribute" to 80's rally cars. Part of my vision for it involves a guage and switch panel in the center of the dash where the stereo and ash tray are. I would like to have switches for main power, ignition, fuel, auxiliary lighting, and starter. I've done it before on carbed vehicles, this will be my first experience with one that is fuel injected.
Can I bypass the fuel pump relay and run the pump hot whenever the car is running? I know the pump will only run for a few seconds when the key is on and the car isn't running. Is this necessary, or could this feature be eliminated as long as you don't have the key on for more than a few seconds before starting the car. Or just shut the fuel pump off if there's a need to have the key on for an extended period (diagnostics and such).
Is there anything particularly complicated or any unexpected considerations about bypassing the ignition switch? That one seems like it should be pretty straightforward,
Just want to make sure there aren't any surprises . Thanks guys
With a help of Remin dash kits we can easily customize the interior without spending much money and time on dash refinishing or leather wrap. Stick on Dash pieces are precisely cut to line up with every edge of your dash and made of synthetic or real materials. There's a custom template for Mitsubishi Mirage so you can select any material color. Select the year model and check price for your Mirage here: Mitsubishi Mirage wood dash kits at CARiD
Okay Guys, I'm in a bind for money, so thought I'd yank the valve body and give it a good cleaning and put it back together. Well, five hours later, I have it all cleaned up, back together and in the car. Put one gallon of fluid in and start it up. Wait a couple of minutes and put it in R and the sum beech starts to creep forward on the ramps? WTF? So, I yank in into N and the same thing, it creeps forward. So, I try it in D, 2, and L and I'll be damned. I now have 5 forward gears, with no reverse or neutral. Can anyone possibly tell me where I effed up? I'm so pissed off now that I'm about ready to put a match to it. My last recourse will be to borrow fifty bucks from my son next week when he gets paid and go yank another valve body from the junkyard, stick it in and see what happens. If that doesn't work, then I'm scrapping this car and won't ever purchase or mess with another Mitsubishi. My 101 year old mother's health is failing and I have to stay close to the phone for now, so can't risk a 170 mile round trip until she either gets better or passes on. I'm hoping she just passes on as that's what she really wants, and as much as I hate to say it, it would take a load of pressure off my shoulders. My 6 siblings are in for an all round ass chewing once Mom's gone, but that's another story for another time and place. Someone help me with this transmission before I go nuts!
Well, fellas, the good Lord willing and my Mom not dying in the next couple of days, I'm going to the junkyard this Sunday to try to find a valve body for the Mirage. I'm not going to try removing this one, trying to adjust something inside that I don't know where to position it and hoping I get it right. I'm just going to try replacing the entire valve body and see what happens. If I get it going, it's going up for sale. My son now has a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT that is a much nicer car and the a/c actually works in it! LOL I'm hoping with the gas prices going the way they are, that someone will want a car that gets over 30 mpg, just for commuting back and forth to work, if nothing else. They can worry about the a/c on this car. I'll give them the new belt I have for the compressor. Wish me luck.
AutoGuide.com seems to think so, here's a snippet from their article claiming the Mirage's CVT is pretty noteworthy:
If you’re looking for a fuel efficient car, the little Mitsubishi delivers. Starting at just $13,805 the base Mirage (with the five-speed manual) is cheap and can get a combined rating of 37 mpg according to the EPA. However, spend the extra $1,000 to get the CVT and you’re looking at a 40 mpg combined figure, making it the most fuel efficient gas-powered car on sale today. That’s a 7.5 percent mile per gallon improvement over the manual transmission.
See what other cars made the list of Best CVTs at AutoGuide.com
Okay Guys, I got up early this morning and swapped the throttle body on the car with the junkyard purchased one and it runs great! I changed the leaky valve cover gasket and went for a ride. When I put the car in reverse, it shifted great. When I put it in drive, there was a slight hesitation (3 or 4 seconds) then it went into drive. I thought maybe it was low on fluid, so I added a pint. Drove the car and it shifted just fine. Got home, did some more stuff around the house and decided to take the car to the car wash. It won't go into drive. No matter what I've tried, it won't go forward. I went and got another filter kit and will change the filter and fluid once more. I did this about 3 weeks ago and every since then, it's hesitated to go into drive, but always did. Now it won't do diddly squat! Anyone have any suggestions? If the new filter and fluid don't work, I guess I'll be scrapping this sucker. because it's not worth the headache of trying to find another transmission, nor the expense of rebuilding this one. Dude at Advance Auto parts said his mother had one that did that and he changed the O2 sensor and it started shifting again. I think he's full of baloney. No way an O2 sensor should effect the transmission, IS THERE? I'm desperate for help here.
Hi there!I'm new to the forum.I'm driving a 1998 colt 1.3l engine.This is a car that can put a smile on ur face.But there is this little problem that really does bother my eyes.When I bought the car it had a dashboard without a tachometer.So I decided to get a new one with a tacho.But when I swapped the two dashboards (everything else works fine by the way..) this happened - http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=72u93b>...=8#.U4zWdd4ZnOg *The new dashboard (with the tacho) is from 1.6l engine (according to my opinion that's the only reason for it's problematic function) I appreciate every opinion!Thank you!
Hey Guys, do any of you know the torque speca for the valve cover gasket and throttle body to intake on a 96 1.5 liter engine? I can't find either the Haynes manual or the useless Chiltons manual for mine. The Haynes only went up to 93 and the Chiltons is a piece of crap. I can't find any torque specs in it for anything other than internal engine specs. I don't need to know that stuff yet!
Well Guys, I had to take my wife to a doctors appointment in Hunstsville, AL today (386 mile round trip) and while I was gone, the son and daughter took the Mirage to the grocery store. My son said as they were leaving the parking lot, the check engine light came on, and when he got home and pulled in the driveway and put the car in park, it started idling up and down several times. He turned the car off and came in the house as he knows absolutely nothing about them. I'm thinking an idle speed motor or throttle position sensor. Any suggestions? I have a code scanner, but no connector for a Mitsubishi, so the point is moot. I'm taking it to Advance Auto Parts tomorrow as I just called them and talked with an old associate from 15 years ago when I worked there, and he said they have the correct connector for the scanner. I'll get back to y'all and tell you what comes up. Looks like another trip to the junkyard is in my future.
Would someone please tell me how much fluid my car holds for a fluid and filter change? I drained just a touch over one gallon when I drained it, but for some reason after adding not quite that much back to it, it wants to hesitate a couple of seconds before engaging drive. It engages reverse immediately. When I check the dipstick, it looks like there's too much fluid. BUT, I drained over a gallon from it and am 20 ounces shy of even putting a gallon back in. Should I just go ahead and add the last 20 ounces and see what happens?
Well, I noticed a slight shimmy in the steering wheel between 55 and 60 mph, so thought it might be a tire out of balance. When I went to remove the wheels, the lug nuts were on so tight that I had to stand on the wrench and bounce on it to get them loose. WTH?? I'm not a small man at 5'11" and 205 pounds, but I swear those suckers had to be on there at 150 ft. lb. of torque. I'm not sure what the proper torque is supposed to be, but I put them back on at 80 ft.lb. Drove the car and the shimmy is still there. I did notice that the tie rod end grease boots are worn out as are the sway bar end links. My son will have to save up to replace them, but I HOPE that's the problem. Secondly, after having no luck with the a/c , I opted to leave the belt on the compressor, but noticed the damn idle speed is around 2200rpm now. WTH?? I removed the a/c belt and the engine idle is now around 750 rpm. Can anyone explain to me what happened there? I'm guessing it has something to do with the idle speed motor, but am not sure. Comments? Conjecture?
Hey Guys, my son and I went back to the Pull-A-Part and pulled a pair of nice buckets out of a 98 Mirage. They are a perfect fit. I had him vacuum all of the old cigarette ash and dog hair out of the car after we took the old ones out and I pulled the nasty frigging console out and gave it a good cleaning. Put the console back in and then the seats and man, do they look great! Then I tried fastening the seat belt and the dang clip on the 96 harness is too wide to fit the 98 belt lock. Sooooooo, had to take the seats back out and then swap the belt locks off the 96 seats onto the 98 seats. Works perfectly now and the looks of the car are improving. I put some spare floor mats I had lying around in the car and it's looking better all the time. I guess the next thing to tackle will be the frigging a/c compressor. I may get a new belt for it in the next day or two and see what happens when I put it on. I have a feeling it's going to make one hell of a racket!
Hello all, just wanted to present a problem with a very hard to find and very expensive exhaust part. I have a 2000 mirage 1.5 liter California emissions with 2 doors. It seems nobody makes the exhaust pipe section between the catalytic converter and the muffler for this vehicle. All aftermarket brands only make this pipe for the 4 door version. After talking to the guy at Bosal, he says the 1.5 and 1.8 liter 4 door pipes are the same diameter, but 2 door is not available. only thing I can do is go through the dealer. Dealer wants $200+. Pictures for the 4 door model pipe looks identical to what I needed. Price at advanceautoparts was about $100 for the 4 door pipe. called their service number and they told me it gets shipped through bosal and will take 3-5 days and gave me 20% off. While paying advanced representative realizes it will take 6-8 days, apologizes, and decides to give me 40% off. I paid $70 total, shipped to my house in 5 days. Yesterday I took off my rotted pipe between the cat and muffler, laid it on the ground next to the new pipe. Turns out all the bends, connections and hangar locations are identical, only this 4 door pipe is about 4 inches longer. The length difference is on the straight pipe right after the resonator. I cut it with a pipe cutter in two pieces, hung the resonator portion and attached it to the cat. then I took the s-shaped portion, hung it and attached it to my muffler. I lined up the overlapping pipes and marked it with a marker. Removed the pipe, cut it and again put it back in place. Came together perfectly. I could have purchased a connection, not sure of the size, but I opted to spot weld in two places. I removed the entire pipe (now one piece again) and welded all around and reinstalled with new gaskets. No leaks, car so quiet now I am not ashamed anymore! So for those of you with a 2 door version who don't want to pay $200+, get bosal part number 285-179 and cut it on the straight portion after the cat and reconnect, then take the family out to dinner or whatever with the $150 you just saved. I wish I measured the difference, but it is easily determined as I did it..... Hope this helps someone someday.
Well, my son and I will be headed out to the junkyard in Nashville tomorrow morning. It's a 170 mile round trip and a crap shoot on whether or not we'll find everything, or anything, we need. My primary objective will be the window regulator and cable system. Will any other Mitsubishi interchange with it if the Mirage doesn't have one? Or do you guys know if any other year model will interchange? I need a tail light, window crank handle, hubcaps, a seat, door panel and radio antenna. I may grab some new rear speaker grilles if I can find some that aren't dry rotted by the sun like mine. I also need a brake pedal pad. I think I'll have a good look at an a/c compressor and see if I can figure out how to remove one in the car. Might as well practice on a junker instead of my own car, right? On a brighter note, I did get the stereo fixed today. Someone had mucked up all the wiring and after a couple of hours, I got power to it and have installed new speakers in the front doors and they sound pretty good. I have to put some new ones in the rear deck and then we'll be rocking in the Mirage.
Hello, The scenario, Tranny was working fine, no noise etc. came off the Highway on to my road, about a 1/8th of a mile it's like the Axle had broke, I coasted to a stop. In park I can't move the car, so I am sure it's not the axle, which I replaced a little while back, so I have no gear, no reverse, no drive gears, etc. It acts like it's in Neutral. Fluid was fine. etc.. Just like someone turned the switch off. ( Like the axle broke. ) I say maybe the TC unit? Never experienced anything like it. Suggestions?? Thanks T
Okay, so I got this ride yesterday and the passenger side front door didn't have a handle on it for the window. So, I figure, no big deal, I'll just take the one off the back door and use it until I can get to the junkyard, right? Well, I did that and the dang window still wouldn't move. So, I removed the door panel and discovered that there is a cable inside that is broken. My first question is whether or not I can just replace the cable and if so, how much of a pain in the arse is it? Second question is if that's not replaceable, what do I need to do? The a/c doesn't work and I'd really like to be able to roll that window down. Summer is rapidly approaching here. Thanks
Hey Guys, I had the chance to check the idler pulley and a/c clutch pulley on the Mirage today and although both do spin, the a/c pulley seems loose and made a racket. Kind of a ringing sound, so I'm pretty sure that's why the belt was removed. Do any of you know if I can remove the clutch pulley without losing the coolant in the system? I'd love to be able to change it out with a new one without having to discharge,vacuum and re-charge it. I don't have the gauges, tools or knowledge to do that. I can, however change a pulley if it can be done on the car. Thanks
Hey Guys, I just bought a 96 Mirage four door yesterday and can't locate the transmission dipstick. Can anyone point me in the right direction? The car runs great and shifts great too, but just in case I want to change the fluid and filter at some point in time, I'd like to know where the heck to fill it back up and check the level. Thanks
Hey Guys, I'm new to the 1.5 engine in this Mirage and was just wondering if it has a timing chain or belt. If it's a belt, what's the recommended change intervals? Also, if a belt, is this an interference engine? Thanks.
I'm trying to install gauges on the car cuz i only have a speedo temp and fuel gauge.
I want to put a voltmeter, more accurate temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge.
I was looking in the manual and it seems to me the oil pressure sender should be by the oil filter but there is no such sensor or any wires even near there. Is it possible it doesnt have an oil pressure sender at all? and if so how can i put one in with a guage attached to it.
I have a 93 colt with a 1.8 swapped in from a 95 mirage. It has all the wiring from the donor car and runs great. Just cant find any oil sensor!
What do you call the pipe that comes from the water pump, runs behind the engine to the thermostat. It is part of the engine cooling system. I found the phrase Engine Coolant Transfer Pipe, when I look for the part.
I cannot find it.
This part is leaking and I need to replace it. I am not sure but I think the pipe rusted. I have not taken it apart so I am not sure. Is this something an mechanically inclined person that is not a mechanic do? I had to replace the water pump two years back, I tried and gave up. I was afraid of removing the timing belt. Also there was not enough space for me to work. I had to lower the engine, even looked at a video on You Tube. I ended up taking the car to a mechanic.
Where can I find this part?
Additional information: This is a 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage. Engine 1.5 liter
I cant seem to find the low pressure valve to refill the Freon. I followed the larger diameter line from the compressor but I cant find the valve on the line. it just seems to go into the firewall. I did find one valve but I don't know if that's the high pressure valve or not.
I have a 2001 Mirage with a 4G15 engine. I would like to swap it for a 4G92 DOHC engine. I know there are two versions , the MIVEC ( 173hp)and the non MIVEC (143hp). What other modifications will I have to perform? Is this swap possible?
Just putting this out here to possibly help others..My 1993 dodge colt awd 2.4l 5spd was suffering from an starting problem..After a short drive it would crank but usually noy start in less than 4-5 cranks..cranked normally just no starting..then it reached the point it wouldn`t start at all after a short drive,unless I waited 20-30 minutes then it was fine.then one day no start no matter what..tried first new battery,then removed and had ecu sent away and checked out ok,then bought on ebay a complete distributer with cap rotor and internal coil for $180 shipped..local napa wanted $140 for coil alone..Now she starts and runs great...
my engines making alot of chattering / tapping noises, on acceleration and it's a real head scratcher... It makes these noises if the accelerator is pressed abit more than is needed,( it goes if you let up so) acceleration has to be done very smooothly..It is very bad if under load, like starting to go uphill, in a high gear( before you would change down) The noise seems to be coming from the front and I think it's the carb at fault ! The top choke butterfly thingy ,( sorry forgot it's name), when the engine is hot,is very weak in staying fully open. It flapps around easily, so I think it's what's making the noise, as the engine draws in air etc. The car has to be moving, so it's hard to pinpoint it's noisey sound. But I Maybe wrong... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated ! I have tried to sort it without asking and searched older posts but found nothing.
The engine just had it's cam belt replaced and it's a 1.3, 1984 model, 4 speed man.
Thanks for any help, and sorry for any delays in replying back as I'm on the move..
I just recently acquired a 99 mirage de sedan. The car is a 1.5l with auto trans and only 77,000 miles. Since the car wasn't driven very much I gave it a full tune up. I'm happy with the gas mileage but not the power. I know the 1.5 is pretty small and isn't going to do much more but is there any fairly cheap mods that I can do to boost its power?