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EMC 3000gt |
16239 |
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Last post by: EMC 3000gt
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obd_dbkl |
5,001 |
16th March 2013 - 07:44 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
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read posts below
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mirrormirageman |
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11th March 2013 - 04:10 PM Last post by: mirrormirageman |
Long time no post, guys but I feel compelled to help others.
This is a long post, but I want you guys to follow my thinking and experience because I know I'm not alone with this issue, and I believe it will help. I have a 2000 mirage with the 1.5 liter 12 valve.
For any car suffering from valve lash noise, clicking, whatever and want to do this job themselves, I want to outline what I did to finally make it go away. For years I had the dreaded embarrassing click clack click clack click which came and went, cold or hot. The clicking would go away sometimes if I do a restart, which I attributed to an immediate burst of oil pressure. It would click less when I did a 10w30 oil change and worse when I used 5w30, dino or synthetic. Anyway, this started years ago. I first cleaned all the valve lashes as per factory service manual and bulletin, using diesel fuel a few years back and it helped nothing. I did motor flush several times, even driving with it in the crankcase for a few miles, tried marvel's mystery oil, tried seafoam in the crankcase as well. I tried that absolute nonsense revving to 3000rpms over 15 seconds thing that's all over the internet about air bleeding the lashes too. I would get some results for a few miles only and then the noise would return. Finally after 2000 miles since my last 5w30 synthetic oil change at 192k miles, when the clacking was at it's peak I decided enough is enough. I put the car on ramps and drained the oil and removed the oil filter. After it cooled down, I removed the valvecover and slowly took off the valve lashes individually, no special tools at all but kept a magnet handy, and this time removed the rocker arm tubes as well. I kept the rocker tubes and rocker arms intact and set them aside. Nothing seemed bad. I even checked each rocker arm while slowly turning over the engine manually before removal, trying to pinpoint which lashes were at fault but all were nice and firm, no play. I guess they were all full when I shut the car off and didn't have time to lose their pressure. This time I did a couple of modification to the factory service manual and bulletin procedure. I filled three steel bowls with KEROSENE instead of diesel. I threw all the lashes in the first bowl, not caring about keeping them in order. cleaned each lash by pumping the plunger while holding the steel wire in the hole maybe 30-40 pumps and threw it into bowl number 2. did that for each of the 12 lashes. did the same thing in bowl number 2 and finally again in bowl number 3 and left them soaking in the bowl overnight. Each and every lash was incompressible when full. I'm pretty strong and I tried as hard as I could but they wouldn't compress unless I depressed the internal ball with wire. I did notice that each and every lash had significant side to side play at the plunger. I could move the plunger sideways and also turn the little snap ring that held them in place and hear it click side to side, NOT down. I also measured each lash and got 26mm for each one. I went to the autoparts store and compared with a brand new one. Even the new one had side to side plunger play, though not nearly as much as mine but the new snap ring was immovable. I thought sheeet, I'll have to get all new lashes and they aren't cheap! I then figured it really isn't that hard to replace lashes, so I'll give it another go with the old ones and see. I went home and carefully slid off the rocker arms from the rocker shaft and made sure to organize them so they are in the right order. two at a time,I'd soak the rocker arms in kerosene, then used carb and choke cleaner with the little red tube and sprayed all holes of all rocker arms. there is a hole from the rocker tube that lines up with the rocker arm that supplies the lash. there is also a very small hole at the top of the rocker arm that allows excess oil to escape. all forced clean with the red tube carb spray both forwards and backwards. you can bend the red tube from the spray to get into the corners and feed holes and watch it come out the other end.. Then onto the rocker tubes, checked for scoring or other defects, and each and every hole was sprayed clean. I used a needle to make sure the tiny oil holes weren't blocked and sprayed everything twice and lubed it with new oil and reassembled them with the rocker arms in order and set it aside. I did not come across any obvious blockage, all channels appeared clean. I even sprayed down the holes in the engine block that supplied the rocker tubes. they didn't go far before hitting the camshaft, but I did it anyway. while the lashes were soaking overnight an idea popped into mind. I was going to go a different route than the factory at the last fill of the lashes. the bulletin says to depress the internal ball with wire and fill the lash by releasing the plunger. THIS TIME, I depressed and held the plunger down, THEN REMOVED THE WIRE and THEN released the plunger. The idea being this would force the lash to suck up kerosene using only the side fill hole of the lash. If you think about it, when youare using the wire to depress the steel ball and holding it open, kerosene willfly in and out of that same hole while your filling it. I wanted to chase kerosene into that lash the same way that oil would go, which is from the SIDE hole. So, the wire would be used to depress the internal ball, compress the plunger and hold it, then remove the wire, and THEN release the plunger. this would flush the fill hole of the lash with good ol' kerosene. I did that several times and noticed a significant vibration in the lash while the lash was sucking up kerosene and knew I was onto something. Then I asked God to bless my work (I am FAR from an ideal Christian, but I like to ask for his blessings when I'm at my wit's end) and put it all together, then filled the crankcase with new synthetic 5w30 (the exact same oil that made the noise worse before) and a new oil filter. I rolled the car downhill in gear with engine off slowly to build oil pressure, I didn't want an immediate startup with bone dry rocker tubes and rocker arms. Guess what my friends? To my dismay the clacking was still there immediately after startup. I was about to throw a child-like fit, then decided to drive around and see if perhaps the kerosene was seeping out and perhaps the air trapped in the rocker tubes and rocker arms needed to get bled out. well, within a mile, I kid you not, the noise disappeared. No nonsense revving, no spirited driving at all, and now 20 miles later, the noise is gone. I know it's fixed. I couldn't travel any length of road without it clacking for months now. this will help anyone with valve lash noise. I believe the key is to REMOVE THE WIRE holding the internal ball and allowing the lash to fill with it's side fill hole like 10 times each instead of keeping the wire in there and pumping like the bulletin states. As far as the guys who replaced lashes and still had the noise, I'd recommend taking off the rocker arms and rocker tubes and cleaning them out as well, very important. If that doesn't work, then you must have low oil pressure or are aerating the oil somehow, like with low or high oil level and/or a broken pickup tube which is sucking in air in your crankcase. But before you go hunting for an oil port to hook up a oil pressure gauge or taking off your oil pan to hunt for a broken tube, try my method. I hope this helps.
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korgoth1 |
2,456 |
6th April 2010 - 10:18 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
Hi all, my transmission ground to a halt today. It was used, i put it in so i could rebuild my old one, but so much for that plan. The trans i want to rebuild is a F5M21. Does anyone know of a good rebuild kit for it?
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98_evo_copy |
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19th February 2010 - 01:12 AM Last post by: 98_evo_copy |
Hello Mitsubishi folks!
Im new to this Forum, recently switched my choice of cars from the (cursed) Subaru WRX to a Lancer.
I am 18 and in college, so affording a Lancer wasnt in my next few years.
I found a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage for 200
A little about it.
Sedan (4 door)
1.5L engine
195K
Maroon
etc.
Unfortunately
Ive been letting my sister use it until she can buy a car, and a guy side-swiped it in a parking lot and now I have a nice dent in the back...
Nearly 200k miles (time for a Lancer engine swap!) HELP!
Some body damage ^
Does anyone live in the Beaverton/Portland/Hillsboro/Aloha area that might come look at it, and help me out?
I want to be a diesel mechanic, engines have been my life since I was 6, but they were all muscle cars and had very simple engine layout.
If you have spare parts that would fit my car (body parts especially) I wouldnt mind taking them off your hands for you or maybe can pay..?
Let me know

Also would be interested in some modification ideas/pictures?
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redcentinela |
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14th May 2013 - 07:09 AM Last post by: redcentinela |
Hello. I wanted to do an engine swap in a 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage with a 4G15 SOHC engine , it is been very difficult to get a 4G92 MIVEV Gen 2 engine, I was wondering if the 2006 Colt Rallyart , 4G15MIVEC Turbo engine would fit.
If anyone has done this swap or think it might be possible, let me know.
This 4G15 MIVEC turbo engine would probably more readilly available than the Gen 2 4G92 engine.
Thanks. Please, let me know if this type of swap is possible.
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redcentinela |
1,142 |
14th May 2013 - 07:01 AM Last post by: redcentinela |
I have a 2001 Mirage with a 4G15 engine. I would like to swap it for a 4G92 DOHC engine. I know there are two versions , the MIVEC ( 173hp)and the non MIVEC (143hp). What other modifications will I have to perform? Is this swap possible?
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byates2 |
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11th December 2012 - 04:59 PM Last post by: byates2 |
I have a 93 Plymouth colt and it had a lock on the gas door. Some a**hole destroyed it trying to jimmy it open. I can't find a new one anywhere. Anybody know where to get one or maybe any extras laying around
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byates2 |
188 |
25th November 2012 - 11:03 PM Last post by: byates2 |
I'm trying to install gauges on the car cuz i only have a speedo temp and fuel gauge.
I want to put a voltmeter, more accurate temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge.
I was looking in the manual and it seems to me the oil pressure sender should be by the oil filter but there is no such sensor or any wires even near there. Is it possible it doesnt have an oil pressure sender at all? and if so how can i put one in with a guage attached to it.
I have a 93 colt with a 1.8 swapped in from a 95 mirage. It has all the wiring from the donor car and runs great. Just cant find any oil sensor!
Pics would be of great help if u have any. Thanx
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Andres Munoz |
122 |
14th November 2012 - 08:58 AM Last post by: thomcasey |
Alright, my clutch is slipping and i need a new one. but the thing is, i have a 4g15 tranmission , on my 4g63t motor. anyone here know what kind of clutch i can use? need help. thanks.
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bikeman |
443 |
24th October 2012 - 04:25 PM Last post by: bikeman |
Just putting this out here to possibly help others..My 1993 dodge colt awd 2.4l 5spd was suffering from an starting problem..After a short drive it would crank but usually noy start in less than 4-5 cranks..cranked normally just no starting..then it reached the point it wouldn`t start at all after a short drive,unless I waited 20-30 minutes then it was fine.then one day no start no matter what..tried first new battery,then removed and had ecu sent away and checked out ok,then bought on ebay a complete distributer with cap rotor and internal coil for $180 shipped..local napa wanted $140 for coil alone..Now she starts and runs great...

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jeffhove |
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19th October 2012 - 01:28 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
Can anyone give me advice on what parts to switch and what to replace them with to make my 2000 mirage a rally-ish car? Example: springs, motor parts, suspension parts?
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byates2 |
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17th October 2012 - 02:32 PM Last post by: byates2 |
I recently replace the alternator with a high out put. I moved the alternator to the back because the highoutput only fit in the back of the Engine. Previously the alternator was where the power steering usually is. So now it seems i cant fit a belt there cuz the tensioner would be to close to the actual belt.
Is it ok if the tensioner hits the serpentine part of the belt or does it have to be in contact with the smooth surface of the belt?
Does anyone know of a bypass pulley i can put where the power steering is supposed to go?
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Andres Munoz |
282 |
16th October 2012 - 11:53 PM Last post by: Andres Munoz |
Anyone know, or have a link where i can find a write up on doing a RWD conversion? been looking and looking and i can't find anything.
not really a sleeper. but once i pick up some stockies, it will be a sleeper for sure lol
this is my daily driver at the moment. fun little car. the lifters on motor are bad though, so will be swapping out my motor or head. which ever i find first lol also, clutch is slipping lol but i will have it fixed soon.
4g63t 6bolt swapped mirage (fwd)
Only photos i have at the moment




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byates2 |
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7th October 2012 - 04:56 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
looking to get a high output alternator for my 95 mirage 1.8L. are eclipse alternator interchangeable with mirage?
I know i need a 4 gauge wire set but how do i install the clip onto the new 4 gauge or what do i need to do
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byates2 |
486 |
21st May 2012 - 05:35 PM Last post by: byates2 |
I got a 93 plymouth colt, with a 1.8, gas mileage is good, but its a bit slow
what are some upgrades i can do to get more performance out of it. i already did the cold air intake but i think those are somewhat useless. any thing????
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byates2 |
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21st May 2012 - 01:41 PM Last post by: byates2 |
So for awhile now my car has a bucking/hestitaion problem. Kind of like dumping the clutch or hiting the gas on and off. It especially bucks or jerks when i hit a speed bump or a lane marker or something to cause a pretty good vibration in the car. I figured it was a loose wiring connection so i looked around and i noticed that the wiring clip that attaches to the mass air flow sensor isnt fully seated and will not clip on to it, so it is just loosley seated on the MAF, and im thinking that every time i hit a bump it knocks it slightly enough to cause a jerk in the car and make it buck like that. Could that MAF clip cause that kind of thing in the car while driving at 40+mph. Also after is jerks sometimes the check engine light will come on and it will not idle properly, it will just stall. Could that all be caused by the MAF
I have a 93 plymouth colt. swapped out 1.5 to 1.8 manual. only 25k or so on newly rebuilt engine. runs great other than this lil problem
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Jonello |
447 |
16th March 2012 - 11:29 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
my engines making alot of chattering / tapping noises, on acceleration and it's a real head scratcher...
It makes these noises if the accelerator is pressed abit more than is needed,( it goes if you let up so) acceleration has to be done very smooothly..It is very bad if under load, like starting to go uphill, in a high gear( before you would change down)
The noise seems to be coming from the front and I think it's the carb at fault !
The top choke butterfly thingy ,( sorry forgot it's name), when the engine is hot,is very weak in staying fully open. It flapps around easily, so I think it's what's making the noise, as the engine draws in air etc. The car has to be moving, so it's hard to pinpoint it's noisey sound.
But I Maybe wrong...
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
I have tried to sort it without asking and searched older posts but found nothing.
The engine just had it's cam belt replaced and it's a 1.3, 1984 model, 4 speed man.
Thanks for any help, and sorry for any delays in replying back as I'm on the move..
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jasong79 |
772 |
16th March 2012 - 11:26 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
Hi all, new to the forum.
I just recently acquired a 99 mirage de sedan. The car is a 1.5l with auto trans and only 77,000 miles. Since the car wasn't driven very much I gave it a full tune up. I'm happy with the gas mileage but not the power. I know the 1.5 is pretty small and isn't going to do much more but is there any fairly cheap mods that I can do to boost its power?
Thanks
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Jonello |
281 |
24th February 2012 - 04:23 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
QUOTE (Jonello @ Jan 31 2012, 08:50 PM)

my engines making alot of chattering / tapping noises, on acceleration and it's a real head scratcher...
It makes these noises if the accelerator is pressed abit more than is needed,( it goes if you let up so) acceleration has to be done very smooothly..It is very bad if under load, like starting to go uphill, in a high gear( before you would change down)
The noise seems to be coming from the front and I think it's the carb at fault !
The top choke butterfly thingy ,( sorry forgot it's name), when the engine is hot,is very weak in staying fully open. It flapps around easily, so I think it's what's making the noise, as the engine draws in air etc. The car has to be moving, so it's hard to pinpoint it's noisey sound.
But I Maybe wrong...
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
I have tried to sort it without asking and searched older posts but found nothing.
The engine just had it's cam belt replaced and it's a 1.3, 1984 model, 4 speed man.
Thanks for any help, and sorry for any delays in replying back as I'm on the move..
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Mranderson |
313 |
2nd February 2012 - 05:45 PM Last post by: Mranderson |
hi i was wondering if anyone could answer me if it is hard to convert a 1989-1991 colt from FWD to AWD i already got the 4g63 engine in it.. i have seen AWD colt from the same year on the internet but no one seems to be able to answer me what it is needed to be done to make this happen .. i also know that the 1996 colt came original AWD and FWD but that body has never grown to me that is why im ready to go thru the trouble converting the car

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mirage_2003 |
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20th January 2012 - 06:14 AM Last post by: mirage_2003 |
hey guys,
so i own a Mitsubishi Mirage 2003 CE 2-door hatch 1.5L,
i live in Australia,
im finding it hard to find an engine strut brace..
i found some on ebay, now their $220.00..
soo, i want to know if i can purchase a strut bar off a different model and place it in my model, ONLY because in America (USA) strut bar's including postage is under $100.00
any help appreciated,
cheers
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Filburt |
441 |
2nd December 2011 - 11:22 AM Last post by: Filburt |
Hey, new to the forums.
Yesterday the "Service Engine Soon" button on my car came on and my engine started making noise. The noise would increase when I would alter the heat. I got it checked out at auto zone today and they gave a me a code that said P0510. I looked it up and I got different responses. What does it mean exactly?
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pilgrim supporter |
153 |
2nd December 2011 - 05:42 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
My wifes 1995 COLT 1.6 GLX has a knocking noise when turning steering wheel from side to side. Narrowed it down to the universal joint from steering columb to steering rack has play in it allowing the knocking. Anyone know if easy to replace, any other models fit or where to get new in UK thanks
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jeremym001 |
403 |
19th November 2011 - 04:26 AM Last post by: jeremym001 |
Hi,
I have a 1993 Mirage Cyborg-R and while it started yesterday, it won't now. When I first turned the key on, the clock/radio were flashing on and off and there were red lines through the dash clock. I used a battery jump start pack and jumper leads to a working car and it barely tried to crank the starter engine. I think it may be the voltage regulator but need an experienced opinion. Thanks in advance.
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benitoc |
248 |
28th September 2011 - 04:12 PM Last post by: benitoc |
Hello to all
I've been trying to locate some custom gauges for my mirage 1997
but with no luck
by any chance does anyone can point me to any online store where I can get those custom gauges
My car is a 1997 Mirage LS 1.8 liter
with tachometer
thanks for you help in advance
thanks again
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dytha |
271 |
14th September 2011 - 11:44 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
anyone have any experience checking the valve clearance on a 1994 Colt 1.8 liter engine?
It is supposed to be done every 15000 miles but most repair shops around here wont do it.
But I do have a receipt for the dealership doing it for 1 hour labor and a v/c gasket 14 years ago.
since this should be done so often I would like to learn to do it myself.
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dytha |
458 |
14th September 2011 - 04:34 AM Last post by: dytha |
this 1994 colt has 206000 miles on the 4g93, 4 cylinder, 1.8 ltr engine
when the engine is cold it is hard to start. if you put it in drive within 2 minutes of starting the engine bogs down when trying to accelerate.
the plugs, wires, cap, button, pcv, air filter, both o2 sensors have been replaced. fuel filter was attempted but the bolt didn't want to come off...the line started to bend and we stopped.
the engine has a/c but its been bypassed with a smaller belt.
there are no check engine lights...there used to be but replacing the o2's took care of them.
once the engine is hot it is easy to start....but i still have to "play" with the gas pedal...a quick push on the gas pedal seems to lower the speed and then it builds up
i'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body and iacv if possible
any other ideas??
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hectorantonio |
763 |
8th September 2011 - 04:11 AM Last post by: cje83 |
Hi guys, I own for 10 years a Mitsubishi Mirage S 1994, automatic full electric equipment. Recently the car began to fail. My mechanic team is great but this time they have no clue on how to deal with this. I know this is like medical cases so I will post every data I have to make the problem as easy to delimit as I can. I researched here and found a thread with a very similar problem, I will post my description and the link of the other thread (at the end) in case any of you thinks is the same or is just something similar.
When:My shocks needed change so I sent the car for a replacement and normal service. After that I went to the gas station and filled the tank. Two days later the car began turning off with no reason. The battery is ok, alternator ok, the sparks are ok, cables ok.
The problem:- The car tuns off with no explanation.
- Some times it turns off right after I turned on early in the morning.
- Sometimes it works fine and turns off after a mile or so.
- It turns off when on D, L or 2.
- It has turned off on different speeds, from 10, 20, 40 and even at 60 kmph.
- Sometimes when is beginning to turn off while driving (like when the battery is dying) I just step on the gas and accelerate and that stops the problem, the car goes on, but as we tested, the electric system is just fine.
I tried turning on the car and while ok, turning all the lights on, fog lights, radio, air etc and even unplugging the battery to check the alternator, the car doesn't turns off, I'm convinced is not the electric system. We checked the fuses and they are all ok, no loose cables.
First try: air filter with oilA friend told me it could be missing air as sometimes the oil goes to the air intake, I checked and there was oil on the air system, I cleaned it and sent it to the mechanic, they cleaned the whole system and a valve where the air mixes. The car worked fine for two days and then the problem came back, I still had the same gasoline from the filled tank.
Second try: air and acceleration modificationI sent the car again and they told me it could be a problem of the acceleration and air intake calibration. They modified it and the problem ALMOST disappeared, the car was more responsive, powerful but accelerated, you could here the engine. Then after testing the car I found sometimes the car goes into an oscillation while on N: up and down again and again. They modified the car again and the problem disappeared.
Gas pump and gas filterWith the help of a friend we checked the gas pump, is working just fine. We checked the gas filter, pull it out and with air pressure we emptied it. The gas inside was not fully clean, it had some dirt but it was ok, been worse.
Third tryThe problem came back two days later, they modified the calibration again and the problem was almost gone, except I have to turn the engine on and then push the pedal at least two times, then the car works ok. BUT sometimes the car accelerates itself just as if you stepped the gas pedal arbitrarily.
Another problem this time is, the car is on a stage of acceleration in the city, then if I hit the road and drive at more than 80kmph for a while, then when I come back to the city the car stays very accelerated and won't come to the "relaxed state".
I remember in the past, when it worked fine, the engine would accelerate to my needs and stay there until I come to a full stop, then the car suddenly relaxed. I mean like "adaptive", but now the car just keeps the same noise on the engine (acceleration) and won't adapt.
Gasoline changeAlready used a lot of gasoline and filled the tank again, this time on a diff gas station. The problem is still there.
The similar problem described on another thread hereThis is the thread by blakwaq:
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...=21045&st=0And here is the last answer when he confirms the problem was solved:
QUOTE (blakwag @ Nov 3 2008, 10:00 AM)

Just an update in case anyone in the future experiences this.
Switched out the throttle position sensor a couple months ago and all is fine now. Next challenge is to see if we pass the next smog

I'm not saying is the exact same problem, it just sounds very similar. I already sent a message to him to see if he can help and tell me where is the
Switched out the throttle position sensor . No clue on what or where it is, my first language is not english, would appreciate some help.
I don't want to get rid of my car, is amazing. I want to fix it, my car deserves it after years of loyalty on the road.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the long post, I just try to make clear all the symptoms.
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Badger21 |
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7th September 2011 - 03:04 PM Last post by: Badger21 |
Greetings to all. I apologize for my first post being a query for information, rather than anything else much helpful. I'm rubbish when it comes to cars, but I'm trying to learn the basics at least.
I've got a 2002 Mirage DE Coupe 1.5L auto. It's not glamorous, but it gets me from A to B, and while I'm still in college, it's perfect. About 2 weeks ago, I noticd a chirping/squealing noise under the hood after Hurricane Irene passed over us here in CT, and passed the noise off as moisture on the belts. I've had it before when it has rained significantly, and has always passed and gone. This time, it has stayed. I did replace the power steering belt after mine snapped into pieces while on the road. The car was driven for about 1/10th mile to a parking lot after the incident, and was not started and run again till the new belt was on. I referenced a manual from AutoZone for my car and from what me and a friend could tell, the belt was on right and properly tensioned (less than 1" vertical distention).
Naturally, I assumed the belt was loose, and proceeded to check. I tightened the belt a little and rechecked the tension. All seemed good. Started up, and the sound was back, louder than ever. Usually the first two minutes after starting the car for the day, it's fine, but after that, the noise is constant and gets louder/more urgent whenever I accelerate. Sticking my head under the hood, the sound seems louder closer to the front rather than the back where my alternator is. A check of the alternator belt on a whim shows the belt in good condition, no glazing or cracking, properly tensioned.
Before I go disassembling the PS pump belt assembly again, anyone have an idea where to point the finger for the culprit? Seeing as the belt has less than 4k miles on it, I doubt that's the issue. I'm inclined to think the power steering pump is going, but I haven't ruled out my AC compressor pump which is on the same belt. But, I have not run my a/c lately.
Ideas? Much appreciated for any good tips. I'd rather know what I'm getting into without paying what little savings I have for a mechanic to waste an hour poking around and charge me 200 bucks.
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gotzrage |
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5th September 2011 - 04:36 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
hey guys im new to this forum. I got a problem with the oil gasket...i always got oil leaks for every 6 months everytime i replace them with a new one, i just want to know what seems to be the problem.
more info: mirage 97 4dr 1.8l automatic
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dragrcr1962 |
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15th August 2011 - 12:59 PM Last post by: dragrcr1962 |
I'm thinking of swapping my 1.5 in my 91 colt for a 1.8 out of a 94 colt. Any problems with this? Can I use the manual flywheel off the 1.5 on the 1.8? Hood clear?
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dragrcr1962 |
318 |
9th August 2011 - 03:45 PM Last post by: dragrcr1962 |
I'm buying a 1989 Colt GT. It IS an original GT with the decals, and seats. It does NOT have the turbo engine. It has an automatic transmission and what appears to be a 1.5 engine. There's absolutely no doubt of the originality of the car. The original owner wrecked the passenger-side rear quarter sliding off the road on ice. I'm not after a collectors item as much as I just want this car.. Is it common for there to be non-turbo GTs?
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8
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Mirage03 |
345 |
1st August 2011 - 07:52 PM Last post by: Mirage03 |
My dome light is being annoying. If the door is open and its on the middle setting it's bright but if it is closed and it is on the 'on' setting it is really dull. Anyone know what the problem is?
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0
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Athlon51423 |
177 |
29th July 2011 - 12:51 PM Last post by: Athlon51423 |
I need to replace both rear backing plates on my 98 Mirage ls coupe W/O ABS...and I am having a very hard time finding them. So if anyone is parting out their Mirage I am willing to pay for shipping and everything. I live in Pittsburgh, PA but like I said, will pay to ship.
This is for my safety inspection so the sooner I get them the better.
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2
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Dubsound |
321 |
23rd July 2011 - 06:55 AM Last post by: Dubsound |
Mike
0415682256
Sunshine coast, 4557
I have for sale a custom made Fibreglass sub box for my 10" sub, fits in drivers side corner of my 2001 mirage. Will try and put a photo up when I get a chance. Finished in grey carpet same as the boot floor.
Any questions give me a ring.
$230
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Skorn2909 |
325 |
15th July 2011 - 11:16 AM Last post by: Skorn2909 |
I have a 91' Dodge Colt with the original 4G15 in it with 180,000 miles, but the engine has been through it's prime and its time for a new(er) one, and I'd like to replace it with a bit more power. So, I began reading up on the Eclipse/Talon 4G63 swap. I haven't really found any articles or posts with answers that match up, every answer seems to go against something I just read, etc. So I decided I'd post and ask here.
If I am wanting to swap out my 4G15 with a 4G63, can I use my original tranny? If not, then will the 4G63 tranny fit in place with the original axles, etc. or at least require very little modification?
I work on a 4 day, 10 hour work week leaving me with a 3 day weekend and this car is my DD so I need to try to figure out all the little details so I don't get hung up on something and have to use a 4th day working on it and lose a day of work.
Thanks for any info you can give me.
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pnico |
246 |
14th July 2011 - 08:29 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
hi everyone am new to the site .just a few quick questions if anyone can help me.i just bought a 55 plate colt 1.5 sport manual hatchback its beaut my first problem is the cold start when i turn engine on it very hard to go in 1st gear i have to put it into reverse but that makes a horrible crunching noise .after that the car runs very well.is this the norm or is it something deeper than that.any help would be great.thanks and nice meeting you all...
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1
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chovee |
599 |
29th June 2011 - 08:38 PM Last post by: chovee |
hello! I dont know much about cars yet, but im trying to get there haha.
anyway i have a mirage de coupe 1.5l 4g15 1997.
i was going to buy a new car for a couple thousands but all i can afford are older cars haha.
can i replace certain parts that my car has with aftermarket parts to make the performance better rather than a engine swap.
im willing to throw in money for this car because i love the way it looks
thanks =D
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2
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Mirage03 |
258 |
23rd June 2011 - 05:55 PM Last post by: Mirage03 |
Hey I am installing an amp in my 2003 Mirage Hatchback and I cant find any holes in the firewall to run the power cable. Does anyone else know where it is or have any pictures of where theirs is running?
Thanks for any help guys

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2
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byates2 |
555 |
11th June 2011 - 10:36 PM Last post by: byates2 |
I have a 93 plymouth colt. I uprgarded from a 1.5L engnine to a 1.8. I went to smog it and it failed. I took it to meineke and they said a lot of wiring was messed up and this and that! So they finally make it pass smog! Now a few weeks later ive notice a problem during acceleration, it sputters a lil bit. Its hard to describe, its like the car wants to go but then a lil dead spot while i give it gas. It revs and then dies, revs and the dies, kinda like your battery is about to die, Any ideas. It seems to do it mostly in 3rd an gear 4th
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0
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TwilightEmotion |
308 |
6th June 2011 - 11:13 AM Last post by: TwilightEmotion |
The ball joints on my 1.8L 2000 Mirage are in serious need of replacing. No sweat, right? Well, after searching RockAuto for the part and coming up empty, I decided to call my local NAPA... They didn't have any listed either. Is this a part that is only sold by the dealership?
While I was searching RockAuto, I became curious and searched under the 1.5L model and actually managed to find ball joints. Does the 1.5L share the same suspension as the 1.8L? Just wondering if I can use these or not.
I ended up calling the dealership looking for ball joints and the parts department informed me that there aren't any available... Only the entire control arm which includes the ball joint. Interestingly enough, I'm now having a hard time finding control arms for this year... Can I use the control arm from a '98? It looks like it's the same chassis and other suspension part numbers are the same between years, but I'm not sure. I refuse to accept that the dealership is the only answer at this point. This is really beginning to frustrate me.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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adnan |
421 |
21st May 2011 - 10:14 AM Last post by: rallysjd |
Hi guys,
i just did a conversion on my 1998 colt from a 4g15 to a 4g92 which is from the 2003 colt cj. i took the engine and the computers + the wiring harness. now i have done all the installations and and patch most of the wires, but there is a problem now that my injectors are not firing up. i will post pictures up soon. i checked the spark plugs and the coil they were both firing up but no power to the injectors.
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1
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kct |
259 |
21st May 2011 - 10:03 AM Last post by: rallysjd |
Can anyone tell me what color code black is used on the door's window frame. The one on mine is fading and showing a whiteish color. I'd like to repaint it but not sure of the shade of black and if it is satin or semi-gloss as it is definitely not gloss nor flat / matt black. If anyone knows please let me know so I can purchase a spray can from duplicolor.
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2
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Narn |
298 |
19th May 2011 - 11:02 AM Last post by: Narn |
I drive a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage DE 2Door.
I have noticed that when it is warm outside I can hear a humming sound (sounds like a phone vibrating on a table) coming from the rear of my car. It does not do it when it is cold out however. It does it for a few seconds then stops and will do it again on and off. It will do it while the car is in park, in gear and even within a minute of the car being shut off.
I can't think of what this would/could be? Any ideas? All help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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2
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wallywalters |
324 |
17th May 2011 - 05:51 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Mirage LS with a 1.8L engine, which calls for a replacement tire size of 185-65R-14. Is it possible to safely substitute another tire size for this one? This size seems particularly expensive...
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1
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dragrcr1962 |
385 |
12th May 2011 - 08:26 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
Found a 1989 Colt GT that I think the owner is willing to sell to me. I do NOT believe it has the turbo, but it IS all original and only has 44k miles on it. Besides a turbo, what was different about a GT? I see the headrest on the seat is different. Anything else?
Thanks!
PS. It doesn't have the spoiler or body kit....
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8
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findog78 |
526 |
29th April 2011 - 01:46 PM Last post by: findog78 |
Hello, first timer on the forum. I have a 01 Mirage with 1.8 SOHC. Heres is where Im at...After 1.5hrs freeway speeds I exited the off ramp and as i took off from the stop the engine died. I had the radio blasting from the drive home and heard nor felt any engine noises, I thought it just died. Popped it in neutral and turned it over...nothing? Coasted to stop and towed it home. No compression. Checked timing belt to find teeth were sheared off the belt at the crank gear. Got it apart to find the damage was contact with valves and pistons. So here i am now. I have the cylinder off with bent valves. The pistons look ok...ie. no holes. The engine did burn oil, which was low at the time of incident. The car has 160K+ on it and I was hoping for some advise or options Im not aware of? Do I just get a rebuilt head? Where is a good source? I live in Palm Desert CA. Are there other items i should be looking at or do while the head is off? I found a rebuilt on Ebay from a place called Odessa cylinderhead for $325 shipped, anybody heard of them? The local machine shop here quoted me $450 just in labor for a 16V! This is the wifes daily driver so I'm not looking to make a speed demon with a fart tube, just a reliable runner I will be looking to sell afterwards.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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third gear |
546 |
23rd March 2011 - 12:35 AM Last post by: third gear |
Hello everyone. Well I helped my friend by resurrecting his 91 dodge colt, no AC no PS. It had no fuel, so I suspected the pump - I was right. The car has been sitting outside covered for a good 7 years. The tank was a rust bucket, the pump was frozen. I cleaned out the tank, got a new pump and that fixed the fuel issue. After many attempts it started with new plugs, cap and rotor. But I have more problems to sort out. It took me some time to get this car going, other people tried to get it running in the past and they obviously didn't know anything, so I had to second guess a lot of wiring. Injector connectors were on the wrong cylinders, spark plug wires didn't follow the right firing order, etc.
Here it is:
Car is a manual, originally with the key on the ON position and clutch depressed the fuel pump turns on. You take your foot off the clutch and the fuel pump dies (even when the engine is running). However I disconnected the connector to the switch for the clutch pedal and now the fuel pump will run as long as the the key is at the ON position. It works, but I know it shouldn't be like that.
The car will take a few tries to start cold 3-4 long cranks. sometimes it'll die out.
Engine runs okay when it's cold, but the warmer it gets, the worse it runs. My guess is something that has to do with closed loop operation, maybe O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, or mass air flow unit.
When the engine warms up, I get a steady trickle of coolant coming out of the nipple by the radiator cap that goes to the overflow tank (don't know where the hose went). I thought maybe the old cap wasn't sealing well, so I bought a new one. It does the same thing. Is it supposed to do that? I haven't had a car do that to me before.
Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
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GearHeadPeter |
358 |
20th March 2011 - 02:29 PM Last post by: GearHeadPeter |
HI All,
I have a 2000 Mirage, DE, 1.8L sedan that needs to have the A/C compressor clutch removed. Are there any instructions and can I do this with the compressor still in the car? The compressor works fine, but at times the clutch will make a clunking noise when the A/C is first turned on, and after that it is OK. The noise is only when first turned on. I have checked all fuses, relays, voltages and wiring and everything else is ok.

Any help would be appreciated as I would like to get this fixed before it hits 110 in Phoenix.
Thanks,
Peter
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baka262 |
312 |
16th March 2011 - 07:15 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
hi everybody,
i am very glad to open my first topic here,
i am interesting what kind of break pads need for my COLT 2003 right wheel.
this is my car

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