So I was thinking today, which is never a good thing for me, and my mind spawned this great idea! It said I should use my leftover Dynamat to line the inside of the plastic stock Rockford Fosgate system subwoofer enclosure. My mind convinced me that it would sound better, the sub sound waves hitting plastic does jack squat for sound quality. So...well I think you know what came next.

This is actually not much of a tutorial, it's more of a picture fest to show you what everything looks like when you pull it apart. I will explain how to use the Dynamat and maybe some suggestions but there is no certain way to cut Dynamat for this to make it easy, so your on your own. OK! Now that I have flapped my jaw long enough already, lets just get to the good stuff, here goes! Oh and the volume of the stock enclosure is about 0.7ft I believe.

Step 1: I removed the subwoofer trim ring and grille. Normally by doing this you can remove the entire subwoofer, but not in this case. The Engineers who made this damn thing made it so we have to remove the entire enclosure to get the damn sub out! Thats ok cause Dynamating this thing while in the trunk would suck. Get that 10mm socket out and get ready, we have 4 bolts to remove. No worries though, its not hard to get to them and they are not welded on there.
Get these two at the top, easy to see, easy to get if you have an extension for the socket.


Then get these two down here, pull up the trunk mat for a second and get to work! No getting lazy or I am going to get pissed.


Step 2: GOOD! Glad to see you made it this far, that was easy, this next part is also easy...for now. The enclosure and sub are not very heavy so wiggle it out just a bit until you see the strand of wire connected to a harness and the enclosure.
Look here, see that? Yeah...thats the harness alright!!


Now you can pull it towards you to remove it from the sub enclosure like so...


And then press the black tab down and pull, it should slide off leaving you with this. Kinda sad isn't it? Hanging all there by itself...no sub enclosure to keep it company...STFU


Step 3: So if you think your all that and a bag of chips because you removed this, think again! It is not hard it all. This next step isn't hard either so lets keep working, we might actually get somewhere.
Look at that! The thing is only 5 or 6 inches in depth. Remove the trim ring and the grill. It has 8 screws so just use a standard philips to unscrew the silver trim ring. Pull that out and then the black grille should be easy to remove with your hands. Now we are ready to sell it!! ha! JK!.


On a more serious note, the sub wont budge until you unscrew the last screw behind it. The screw attaches directly to the magnet of the subwoofer, those clever bastards!


Step 4: Alright so now that you got your hands a bit dirty, we can start doing the manly work. Remove that subwoofer from the enclosure, but keep in mind its connect to the harness and the enclosure still so hold on to both of them.
Now that you have it out, unplug the wires from the terminals, they are easy to pull right up. Write down on tape what color wire goes on what side of the woofer, i don't think it matters but for warranty sake just do it. The bigger terminals are positive and the smaller are negative so you can't mess this up. If you have no idea what your doing dont worry, you cant put the negative on the positive when your putting this thing back together.


I just about crapped my pants when I read the back of the woofer magnet. I figured it wasn't going to be 650 watts but I didn't realize it was going to be only 75 watts. Or maybe its 75 watts per voice coil? So maybe its 150 watts, I am not sure. Zoom in on the picture and see it for yourself. I estimate that with this sub, and the 4 speakers, our systems probably come out to be about 175 watts RMS. RMS means real power for those that don't know. And I count speakers as a whole, the front speaker and tweeter together i consider one speaker. But if you want to be all anal, then 8 speakers plus a sub, happy? OH and one more thing, i think it also says on the magnet "1 ohm/ 1.1 ohm". Because of the two wiring terminals, I think this is a dual voice coil subwoofer. If its 1 ohm, that means its a dual 2 ohm subwoofer wired down to 1 ohm in parallel. But...by looking at how its wired it makes no sense. Or maybe its 1 ohm plus 1 ohm to equal 2 ohms? Maybe they bring the positive and negatives back to the amp and do the wiring there? I don't know, I take no liability for this information!!!


But don't get all angry at Mitsubishi and Rockford Fogate for lying to you cause they haven't...entirely. They say our systems are 650 watts MAX, all car audio companies advertise like this. With fake numbers they usually pull out of their rears or in some cases actually test. The max power is how much the system can handle for 1 second before it explodes. Anyway enough of this, i measured the sub and its about 4-1/2 inches tall. I know this picture does not show it very well cause my angle sucked, but hopefully you can take my word for it.


Step 5: Now I know what your saying, "Duff STFU already and get to the Dynamat part, that's what your writing all this crap for anyway, chop chop!" OK FINE! Here it is my friends, time to Dynamat. This is the part that sucks total A$$ especially because this isn't a box, and it isn't smooth inside.
See? Its a logistical nightmare of cross bars and some other stuff you cant see. In all honesty though now that I think about it...there were some more screws in the back of the sub enclosure that I didn't bother touching. They might have opened the enclosure like an egg, letting me more easily Dynamat the inside...FML if thats true. I wont be showing that in here because I just now thought about it, crap! Well whatever, damage is done. If you do this, see if it unscrews and opens up, should make it much easier.


Always cut all of your Dynamat pieces first before actually sticking them in place. Dynamat is a plastic compound with a tin foil like coating that deadens sound and insulates cars or sub enclosures or whatever you want. It cuts very easy actually, I laid it on a piece of wood that I don't use and cut it with a razor, push down hard and cut. I tried scissors but it took too long and it sticks to the scissors. Now what I did for the bottom piece is i put the Dynamat on the outside of the enclosure, pushed down on the edges and then cut those edges. Make sure if you do that, that you lay it down and cut it the right side up or when you go to put it in the enclosure it will be reversed and wont fit. Personal experience is speaking her ladies and gents, only one side is sticky. Your on your own for figuring out how to cut this, I just measure various insides parts and cut, see if it fits and move on. There is no easy way to do this, be patient, measure well and cut. For smaller peices, lay it down inside, press on the edges and cut the edges for a good fit.


See those black bars right there? They line the entire outer walls of the enclosure. I put Dynamat in-between them by measuring width and height and cut. But now that I think about it, you could probably take one wide piece and wrap it around those pillars, into the indentation, and back around the other pillar. I don't know, just an Idea. I kind of already finished so I cant go back and test any of this. Just get creative, take your time and try to cover up as much as possible. Missing a few small pieces is fine but get the bulk of it.


Step 6: I don't have any more pictures cause there is no point, but we ARE NOT DONE YET! Hopefully you have everything cut, but not stuck down. You need to get it hot if you want it to really stick well. Lay it out in the sun for about 10 minutes and that will do the trick. If not then take a hair dryer and heat up each piece before you peel the back and stick it. Stick it right because sometimes its hard to remove and try again. This stuff does an awesome job of folding and creasing and really getting into every corner and nook. So press firm and make it really hug the enclosure and its curves. That is pretty much it. Once you do all of that just button it all up and stick it back in. You survived!

I wonder if you consider this a cheap lancer mod? I bought a Dynamat Door Kit for my van, got one door, but well...I don't have it anymore so I used the rest of it on this enclosure. The Dynamat Extreme Wedge Pack ($20) should be enough for the enclosure but please don't quote me on that. Here is a link to a few different kinds, great prices too! http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m84_i14...-dampening.html

So I guess now is the part where you ask me if this is worth the 20 bucks (+S&H). It is hard for me to say, I think so. Its not going to make your sub suddenly sound like a super star, but it will make it a bit deeper, it will punch better, and it sounds cleaner. If you do this, please hear a song before, and after, I did not do that. I say do it, its cheap and a good experience. And if you place another sub in the enclosure, the new sub will sound better with the Dynamat insulating it.

Well kids it looks to me that our time is up! Next week I will be showing you how to get your co-workers fired, until next time, this is Duff, signing off!

alright guys. ilike many of you with the nav package have noticed, once the car starts moving it is impossible to watch a movie. u can only hear the sound. we all know tha is for safety reasons, however there is people who put lcd's all over the car. my question is this.. ever since i got the car I notced an input jack on the botton of the screen, that u can only see when the screen folds down to put a cd in.

when i asked the dealer during the test drive, the guy told my that was the input to connect ur ipod. ( which is not true).

then someone who knew what was talking about in the dealer told me to never touch or connect anything into it, cuz its for updates or modifications to the system.

so based on that..do u guys know if it is possible to overwrite that safety feature that prevents the screen of showing movies wile the cars is rolling? or does one have to get a whole new system to have that feature? any feedback?!?!?

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
Here are a few resources to help you better understand the English language, and how it works.

How to use punctuation correctly:
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-English-Punctuation-Correctly

How to Spell Commonly Misspelled Words:
http://www.wikihow.com/Spell-Commonly-Misspelled-Words

Grammar guide:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_grammar

And finally...
How to Avoid Acting Like an Idiot on the Internet: (Note:Rule #5)
http://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Acting-Like-a...on-the-Internet


If these helpful links simply aren't enough, there are numerous places on the internet to download a spell check program. That, or you could use Firefox as your internet browser while using our forums. Firefox will underline any word you may spell wrong, allowing you to simply right click your mouse to find the appropriate spelling.
Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

I just bought a '09 Lancer GTS with sun and sound and burned a couple discs with MP3's on them. I tried playing the discs and when inserted, it reads the disc and says no MP3 found. Is there a certain format I have to burn the disc in to get them to work? I did a search and couldn't find any format reccomendations. Thanks.

I found this on another forum and decided to post it here because i just purchased one and it seems like a really good deal for only ~$650

Anyone else have a retarded GPS? Mine wanted me to freakin make a circle and keep going the exact same way, then later down the road Naomi (my gps) she kept wanting me to get off the interstate only to get back on!!! The only thing I can think off was that naomi was pissed at me for driving in the snow! I got stuck that day and a cop ca
me behind me and bumpered up to me and pushed me up this hill because my tires blow! So maybe she was just too cold??

I use my cruise all the time, lots of highway driving. Last week I noticed that it stopped working, or at least I thought it did. I would turn it on, hit the set button, and nothing would happen. It wouldn't engage. After a few days of that it all of a sudden started working again. So the last few days I did some trouble shooting, here's what I found.
The cruise control will not engage / activate in the morning, and only in the morning. This would be after the car has been sitting in my garage all night and at about 6am in the morning. Of course it's always colder in the morning as well. Once I go out to lunch later in the day it will start working just fine again and will work for the rest of the day, until the next morning.
I'll probably have have the dealer look at it, but just wondering if anyone has seen anything like this before and have any suggestions as to what the prob is? I guessing the cold or maybe condensation is shorting something out, then as it warms up and/or drys out it works again? Idk, looking for suggestions.
Thanks.

I've been lucky enough to lose my primary fastkey this weekend while at a concert. Left my name, number, and description of lost item (highly unlikely they'll find it). I even went and walked the perimeter of the areas I was when outside several times, with no luck.

I called up the Dealer this afternoon and was told a new key is $345 (unprogrammed) and a new key + programed about $400. Does anybody know of a place where I can buy someone's unprogrammed key or someone's key that has a totaled car (I'm assuming it needs to be same year/model)? Or should I bite the bullet and pay the full $400?

btw I have a 2009 Lancer GTS.

-d

So a few days ago the mitsubishi dealer got closed down where i live i have no idea why 2 days after my car went in to get a oil change all the cars were gone and nothing inside.
Today i get in my car turn the key to on, on the display it shows a big oil sign, i dont know if thats always been there but just noticed oil is full and shortly after that it
Shows a wrench with something to do with inspection didnt get a good look what the other word was,
Anyone else had this if so what dose it mean and how do i make it go away?
Thanks.

Hey all! My 09 Lancer hit the 6,000 klicks and with every week it rattles more and more. Even when i play certain types of music at volume 30 and bass set to 3

Did any one attempted to fix the problem?
from my observations rattle comes from that pocket in the door, where it's so flexible and just resonates with music. Also i believe the speaker grill rattles alot since it's not that rigid either.

Any suggestions on how to make it more rigid?

I won't be able to remove my Nav unit for a few months because of an agreement I had with my father. I want to add a backup camera and I know it was an add-on on the Mitsu website.I know with aftermarket nav units, its a simple video RCA and reverse sense wire and bam! backup camera. Does anyone know how they do it for this stock unit? Anyone have any pictures of the rear of the unit? Also, I saw another model where the AUX RCAs are in the rear of the car and in the Nav there was a button that said "Rear AUX" I want that as well. Any ideas!?

The solution to this problem is easy, I set this up in my ES months ago.

1. Buy "blackberry Music Gateway" its like $50 depends where u get it
2. Plug in the RCA cable to the AUX in your car, and plug in the Lighter adapter to power the Gateway
3. Pair the gateway to your phone and set radio to aux.
4. Press play on your music library and VIOLA, you are playing music wirelessly.


The way I personally set mine up was by adding more cigarrete adapters to the car by wiring more under the center console. I also wired the aux cable under the center console and now the gateway resides behind my glove compartment. Whenever someone comes in my car and they see me playing music from my iPhone or iPod Touch and they dont see wires attached to the device or even visible it always makes them ask and i cant tell but i just told you my lil secret. it works great and its simple to set up. it took me an hour to setup because i was going for the hidden look.

Hey Everyone,

I was wondering I would be able to wirelessy stream music from my Blackberry through the Bluetooth connection in my 2009 Lancer GT. I have tried to find some information but havent been able to find anything. Anyone have any luck with this or any info?

THanks alot

I'm thinking of picking up the 4" Perrin Shorty Antenna, as I enjoy the look of the stubby antenna more than the shark fin.
Only issue I have is I use the satellite radio quite a bit as well as GPS.

Does anyone have one of these, and does it work fine with Sirius and the GPS unit? If it is compatible, has your reception gotten significantly worse? (I live a bit in the boonies so reception is sometimes spotty at best, just worried a shorter antenna would put me in a black void of un-entertainment.)

I just totalled my 2009 Lancer a few weeks ago and just located my spare remote key that came with it. Is this something that I can sell to someone and they can have it reprogrammed to work in their own car?? I know they cost approx $150 for the remote key and the programming. Just curious. Let me know what you think.

OK, so I've been wanting to change my turn signals from bulbs to LEDs, but our cars cause a few problems when doing this. Mainly, LEDs have little to no resistance, so the car thinks the bulb is burned out and blinks rapidly to alert you that something is amiss. Now, I know that if you place a load resistor inline with the bulb, it adds the necessary resistance to make the car think that everything is just fine.

Now, I've read on Super Bright LEDs that you can replace the flasher relay so that the car stops the fast blink rate when you replace the turn signal bulbs with LEDs. My question is... where is it located in the fuse box? None of them are labeled clearly, so I really can't determine which is which.

Any help where I can locate this relay? It's greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I am going to do the "big 3" upgrade on my 08 GTS but i'm not sure wether to use 0 or 4 guage wiring. would it make a BIG difference? any suggestions would be great

p.s. I am running a alpine 650 mono-block amp with two alpine e-type subs.

thanks in advance

Hey guys, I got stuck in the blizzard of 2010 here in pittsburgh a few days back, and my audio went out---head unit is fine, but it keeps blowing the 30A amplifier fuse under the hood... anyone have a diagram, or any idea where to look for the short?


thanks in advance.


and also, if the amp is fubar....

--any amp suggestions---that would be compatible with all my current speakers?

i don't wanna drop a ton of cash... i bought my lancer in feb 08, and it already has 83,000 mi, so thebumper to bumper is gone... and i doubt i'd be covered by any residual RF warranty--- right now it blows... i'm in my whip a ton, and have no sound system at all...

assuming it's fried... can the amp be bypassed short term? I know how to wire... just not a big car audio guy (i'm comfortable with doing the work, just not that knowledgeable when it comes to specific equipment...) ---any help would be greatly appreciated... i can offer free legal advice in return

So I just bought my GTS!!! YAYYY!

Anyways...I get halfway home and realize the dummies never pulled the fuse(s) out to allow the accessoires to work....I have no stereo, no stereo lights, no locking doors etc....

Can someone please help me of where and what fuse(s) to pull and remove the plastic from them?

If you're curious it because I bought the floor model. Only one in blue they had. Not to mention they threw me a sweet deal.

Any ideas woiuld greatly be appreciated. Haha!

Hey I am looking at getting a remote starter put into my 2009 GTS 5-speed.

I called a local shop and they quoted me $320 JUST for the install. So with a cheap $100 starter I am looking at $420.

Has anyone else got a starter on their new Lancers? He said its most costly because of the immobilizer and the fast key system...

Hey.

mitsugrl09 was asking how to charge and iPod in the Lancer and play the music at the same time if you only have the AUX input (I can't message you cause you got it blocked).

I figure some other peoples could use this info as well.

My theory:

Use a car charging kit, and have the iPod plugged into your AUX at the same time.

I have not tested this in the car, but I am right now testing it on my computer.
It would be pretty much the same thing with the car charger, because you're only supplying power to the iPod. There is no data transfer through the cable, and would/should not interfere with the AUX output.

The iPod is plugged in through the USB port (but not connected to the computer, just charging - the charge symbol is evident).
I have my headphones plugged into the 3.5mm output.

I am able to use the iPod's full functionality, and am able to hear my music through the headphones.

...someone was arguing with me that it wouldn't work. Well it looks like it does

Again note that this is a Nano 5G (Video)

Since I work in the computer / IT support field I frequently ask myself, what were the programmers thinking. Today I asked that same question after manually resetting my service reminder.

The manual says once the service reminder displays - - - if you just leave it alone after a certain amount of time and miles it will reset automatically to the next service interval. I did my service weeks ago and when mine started displaying - - - I figured I'd just leave it and let it reset on it's own. After 300+ miles and about a week it still had not reset. I reached my next interval 22,500 and it still didn't change so I decided to reset it myself so it would start counting the next 7500 miles which would get me to 30,000 miles.

The manual says with the key in the OFF position switch to the service reminder screen, then press and hold the info button until the wrench starts flashing. Once it does, release the button and press it again to display clear, then the manual says "after that, the time until the next periodic inspection is shown". It doesn't make it clear if your supposed to push the info button again after it shows clear, even though the pictures in the manual show another screen. So after clear displays, I press it again. When I do this, it shows 7500 miles or 6 months. I figure ok cool it must now be set correctly. But since I always want to see what features I might be missing, I figure let me push it again and see what happens. I do this and it switches to 15,000 miles or 12 months. I figure ok cool, I can choose 7500 or 15000 miles. So I say ok let me switch it back to 7500 so it correct. I press the button again and nothing happens. Ok so I figure I have to clear it again and set it to 7500. I try that, and nothing, it does not clear or change. No matter what I do it is stuck on 15000 miles until the next interval.

As far as I can tell there is no way to clear it again or set it back to 7500, I'm stuck with it counting down from 15000 miles. Once it gets there I can clear it again and set it back to 7500. I can't believe the programed it this way. You should be able to clear it when ever you want, or be able to choose 7500 or 15000 at your choosing, instead of setting it just once and then you can't again until it counts down to 0. If they wanted to avoid you resetting it by mistake, they could have just program in a "are you sure you want to do this?" message.

So anyway, if your resetting your own service reminder interval, just follow the instructions, but be careful not to go past the 7500 interval (unless you want 15000), because once you reset it your stuck with which ever interval you choose until it counts down to zero.

How do relays work?
Like how do you know which prong does what?
What are they mainly used for?
What could you use them for?

I know i used it for my HIDs and i did my HID's with a friend of mine but it was a show as we go, he never really explained anything.

Hi all, I have searched for any posts but can't find any so here it goes....as some of you know i installed the new kenwood dnx-9140 into my 08 lancer gts. everything works great but now i want to add the steering wheel controls to the new HU. my question is has anyone done it to their aftermarket Hu yet? maybe you can let me know wich adapter i need that will work for the 9140 (cause i cant get a straight answer from anyone that i asked yet). thanks

i havent seen this since ive bought the car and already went for my 1st oil change but my second one which is service B.. this symbol popped out! any idea?

Since my rockford stereo sounds like crap, I was going to by a different 10 inch sub and put it in place of the old rockford sub. And I am also going to buy a new amp. My question is what channel amp do i need to buy if I am going to keep all my speakers except my sub? do i need 2 different amps? one for my sub and one for my speakers, or will 1 amp do it all? if so, what channel amp?

also.. do you think my speakers in the stock rockford system will be loud enough?


hope this makes sense... im not good with stereos. I just know I have had a lot of big pounding systems but I have never installed one myself, I always have a shop do it for me, so I have no clue what they do.

So i just completed installing a switch to manually override my DRL's with the help of Trini's tutorial (real help, really, btw ) with my own modifications (didn't use plexiglass but drilled a hole in the actual cover; pics to come).

While i was back there, however, i noticed two wires plugged into the blank AUX panels. This is where the ACS and TCS buttons are located for the Ralliart and EVO trims, but this lead me to a question: Do our regular GTS and below Lancers have the ACS and TCS hardware already installed and just need a button to activate it? If so, is there an aftermarket company that has figured this out and developed the "$2000 button" that will enable this feature?

Just some food for thought. Not sure if this has been mentioned before but I just wanted to consult the expertise of this board

Regards.

For the guys with the Rockford Fosgate system, do your trunks rattle? When i set the sub level to 6, the music hits a sour note on the bass and trunk gives a bad rattle. Hopefully it's not just mine!

i bought my 08 gts used about a week ago. It has the 650 watt stereo in it but it doesnt sound good at all. it sounds like a normal stereo to me. The volume level seems like it goes up and down like theres something wrong with it. With 650 watts and a 10 inch sub i expected a lot more. It barely has any bass. Sounds like any other normal stock stereo. I have a custom stereo in my old eclipse with over 1500 watts and it pound like no other. This system in the Lancer is very disapointing.

Well I've read a forum on evom forums about a member making his own cable instead of buying it from the dealer. I've read from another member on these forums that he soldered onto the existing wires in order to have his own custom cable work as well. Now for those non-gts owners, I'm assuming we wouldn't have those cables to solder on to so I'm asking for a little assistance in creating my own cable to connect to the harness.

I need to know exactly what the end connectors of the aux cable look like which will plug into the harness of the car (can anyone show me a close up?).

I also need the name of it (all I know is that it is a female terminal) and upon searching I've seen that there are many different types of terminals. Does anyone know exactly the name or size or type of terminal that it is?

If I do get the info I need to do this I would be happy to share a how-to for everyone else to follow.


Thanks

This week, my brother and I found some killer deals on audio equipment and upgraded the stock (non RF) system ourselves. I will come back to post pictures when we take it all apart again for the sound deadening materials. I kept the steering wheel controls and stock Head-unit with my install.

Equipment:
1x Sony XM-ZR604r (refurbished 600watt 4ch amp) $42.00 new years deal
4x Infinity Kappa Series 62.9i speakers (open box at best buy for $60 a pair)
4x Metra 1" 6.5" speaker spacers SKU: 82-4300 Best Buy $30 (cheaper online)
Self tapping screws 3/4" length. Anything that will fit in the holes of the metra spacers will work
Screws to mount your speakers to the spacers
25' 8 Gauge wire (Power/Ground)
150' 16 Gauge JVC Speaker Wire $30 from Meijer
Cordless Drill
Various Screwdrivers
Socket Set
Wire Strippers
Electrical tape
Soldering Iron or twist splicers

We started by removing all four door panels.
-Remove 3 screws behind plastic moldings
-Pull at bottom of door panel near the front to start popping out plastic clips.
-Remove 2 screws holding interior handle and cables to the door
-Unplug lock/window controls.
-NOTE: the interior panel comes off in one piece but it is made of multiple pieces so be careful. The rubber window molding also separates from the panel rather than lifting out of the slot for the window.

We then removed all the plastic running along the bottom trim of the interior (including the tall piece where the front seat belt mechanism is)
-They have to be taken off in the correct order because of overlap so take your time figuring out which ones come out first.

The glove box was removed, the bottom portion of the back seat (by pulling up on two clips at front), and the side cushions (one bolt on each side visible after bottom is taken out). Take the old speakers out by rotating them counterclockwise and setting them aside.

Power:
Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal to avoid shorting out any systems before you start (resets computers, clock, and radio presets too)
In the engine compartment, find a black grommet in the firewall on the passenger side that looks like it is in the same place as the glove box. You will have to reach through the pipes going to the Brake system to get to this so be very careful not to to apply too much pressure in this area. Remove the plug and drill a hole in it just big enough to fit the 8 gauge wire through. Slip this grommet over the 8gauge wire and and pull enough wire through (outside the car) to reach the trunk. I attached the trunk end of my power wire to a 3' long zip tie to fish it through the hole. You will need to pull away the fabric on the passenger side of the firewall to get to the hole the grommet once filled. Route your wire down through the hole and along the other wires in the tray on the floor that you uncovered earlier to where you amp will be mounted. In the engine compartment, Route the wire across the firewall to the drivers side and up to the positive terminal of the battery. There are a few places to zip-tie this wire to where it won't interfere with anything. Attach your 50A fuse to anything that is no further than 12" from the battery. I think we used a mounting bracket to the right of the Intake.
Ground (negative) - Unscrew any bolt that has good contact with bare metal and attach your ground/negative terminal near the amp.

SIGNAL:
Getting signal to your high level input or Line Output Converter/Running wires to your new speakers
We did this all at the same time by running two sets of speaker wire to each location. One set attaches the high level input to the green (positive) and yellow (negative) wires that ran to your old speakers.
This was the hardest part because we had to route 2 thick wires through the already cramped rubber grommets that connect wires from the car to the doors. We did this by pushing that 3' zip tie through the grommets and pulling the wires back through. If you can't get the zip tie through the tube, try using a small screwdriver to pop them out at both the car body location and the door location and straightening it out. (on the back door, the grommet comes out from the body and the side at the door, goes in to the door instead of coming out of it.) You will also have to pull out a white square plug with wires running through it to the back doors and disconnect the plug inside. On the rear doors, you will have to cut a slit in the rubber on the part that is inside the vehicle to fit the wires through. Route your cables where they are tucked away and leave PLENTY of slack at both ends (This is why I used so much speaker wire). Once you have the 2 sets of wire to each location in, the hard part is over.
NOTE: identify each cable on each end with type and location as each location has 2 identical cables (one to send signal to the amp and one to bring it back). The wires can also run under the back bottom cushion because it has a foam bottom that will mold around the cables.

Cut off the quick connect plugs and splice one of your new wires to them.
Route the wires so they are taught and out of the way inside the door. Leave one set of wires hanging out of the hole where the speakers were with plenty of slack. According to another Mitsubishi-Forums.com member, the green wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative. I guess that really doesn't matter as long as you do all four the same way.

SPEAKERS
On each door, there are three dimples where speakers would appear to mount. Drill a small hole in each of these areas (they fit the metra kit perfectly). There are only three of them, but four are not really needed. Place your metra spacers over the holes and use your self tapping screws to clamp them down. Attach your speakers to the free wires hanging out of the hole and spacers. Mine had an external crossover that we zip-tied to a loop inside the door panel. We also had to screw in an adapter that came with the speakers but other types of speakers will just screw in to the plastic spacers.

AMP Mounting
So now you have tapped in to the signal from your stock head unit and run all wires to the mounting location of your amp with MORE THAN ENOUGH slack in the wires. It's time to mount that beautiful powerhouse of your system. On the 60 side of the 60/40 split seat, there are vertical metal supports under the cover material. Place your amp so that all mounting holes are on top of one of these beams. Use self tapping screws to attach the amp. I cut a slit in the flap at the bottom to run my hidden wires though (clean install).

AMP Wiring
Attach your signal wires to the high level input or Line Output Converter (follow instructions provided for your model). My High level input eliminated the need for a remote turn on wire which could be run from the Accessory power on (power wire to the head unit or from the ignition system). Connect the outputs on the amp to the wires running to your speakers. Attach the positive and negative power wires to your amp, Put your 50A fuse in the holder, and re-connect the negative terminal to the battery.

Test your system and adjust the gain settings, re-install all interior panels and YOU'RE IN BUSINESS!

Getting this all done at Best Buy or a local shop (including materials at full cost) would have cost about $750 US but my whole system cost ended up being about $270 US.

I will try to get pictures up but I'm going back to school at the end of the week so there are no guarantees... I will check back on this post if you guys have any questions!

After some fine tuning of my gain settings, bass, mids, and treble on the head unit, I have a seriously powerful system for only 70watts RMS per speaker! All thos F**king rattles are inaudible with the volume set at 30 (can't hear anything but the tunes)!

Hope it helps some of you guys out! I know I could have used this post before I started...

-Becker11

Since I've owned my Lancer I've had this high pitched noise come through the speakers while I listen to music ( only when stereo is on). It seems to change in pitch to either the throttle or Rpms of the engine. My dad said it might help to get better insulated spark plugs but when I was reading a topic about the aux box someone's making they mentioned that there's a ground wire for the input.
Anybody else have this?

Hi, just got back from the dealer to change my left rear speaker cause I thought it was busted. As they removed the speaker, they noticed that a little ice formation was glued to the back of the speaker. They still installed a new speaker but i'm wondering if this problem will happen again.

Any one else had this problem before?

Thanks for your help, and nice forum by the way!

Cheers!

Hey, A while back I got really frustrated with my 08 ES because there was no AUX input (Ipod, phone jack, RCA, etc...) I did a bunch of research and found kits on ebay going for $60-70. The design they have is a pain because it has to mount in the glove box or come out of the air vent... ugly and not stock looking...

I did some more research and built my own. It works great and IMO is a better design than the stock option on the 09+ lancers.

My "kit" is completely invisible. It mounts on the top of the compartment with the ash tray and you will only know it is there if there if something is plugged in to it. I use a 4' long 3.5mm(headphone jack) male to male cable to connect my Ipod/mp3/computer to the plug i designed which is connected to the stock non-R/F head unit. It works the same as the ones offered stock but instead of RCA (red/white input), it is a headphone jack.

Anyway, I'm thinking about making a bunch of these, taking pictures, and making a complete install guide next time I go home (college student).

I'm looking to see how many of you guys would be interested in this. It will probably be about $20US plus shipping. I would also be willing to install it if you live in the Chicago, IL (west suburbs) or Champaign, IL area.

Any takers?

Hi all. I am the proud new owner of a graphite gray 09 Lancer GTS with the sun, sound and leather package....loving it so far!

I am thinking about installing a double din touchscreen deck, I had a Kenwood DNX5120 in my old Acura EL and loved it. The one downside to the aftermarket deck was the bluetooth was horrible. This has me pondering as I love the bluetooth currently in the car, so far all the voice commands work perfect and everybody I have called on it has been impressed with the sound quality. I did some searching and it looks like syncing the factory bluetooth to an aftermarket deck was not an option in 08...does anybody know if it can be done with an 09?

I am on the fence right now as I love the touchscreen look and functionality but do not want to lose the bluetooth as it is the best I have come across. Any insights would be welcomed.

While I am fishing for insights I was surfing around and found what looks like a promising deal on a Clarion touchscreen with built in GPS (NX409)...has anybody installed one of these in a Lancer and if so how do you like it?
http://www.radioactive1.com/product_onsale...d=&pdid=120

Thanks in advance guys (and gals)

Hi guys....i've searched and found nothing yet so that why im asking. Has anyone upgraded their factory battery wiring (alternator..post..neg..etc) I know how to do it i just need to know to remove the engine bolt...look tough to get to and also the alternator power wire. any sugestion if you've done it...thanks in advadce.

alright, i've already hooked up everything for my system except for ONE thing. that's the line level converter, since i'm keeping my stock head unit. now I only to need to know one thing and i'll be all set up.

I just need to know the colors of the wires coming from the stock speakers to the stock amp. That way I can hook up the line level converter to them. I've looked at the speakers and the wires are a light green color but there is no light green color at the amp, I'm not sure if the wire changes color or something along the way.

I've searched the forum and all over the internet for this, I was hoping someone has done this and could help me out.

Hey,

If anyone is wondering where they could possibly mount an XM unit so it's out of the way, this is what I did.

Watch YouTube video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZppoDRztv8I

I used the backing of a PIAA bulb box, a utility knife, some zip-ties, 3M tape.

I won't go into too much detail, but with some simple cutting and hiding of the wires I managed to mount the XM Delphi unit right where the little compartment is in the center console is (just to the rear of the gear shifter).

It saves space, it's relatively out of the way, easy to swap in and out of the mount.

Watch the video, let me know what you think

Hi Guys

I am new in this forum and I am looking for changing my original car stereo for a naviation system that is available @ eBay.

Could you please explain to me how to remove the orginal radio step by step?

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, I've been following a thread over at mitubishiforum.com for quite some time. A while ago, Otaku from there managed to patch up the media system so that DVDs could be played while driving. The only problem was that he couldn't get it working for many of the 08s-09s because of a newer version that was in those systems. Well over the new year, he finally got something released that works for our cars!

All you need to do is download the file, unrar it (you can use winrar or alzip), burn the .iso file to a cd (nero, magiciso, etc), and put the disk into the car. It takes 1-2 minutes to update the system and then it restarts and you eject the disk. That's it! No removing the hard drive, no tricky unlocking procedures...

I did a quick drive around the neighborhood and was super excited when Transformers kept on playing! Now I can entertain the passengers (as long as there isn't a glare on the screen...)

but anyway, the most important part.
LINKS:
File: http://www.takingthingsapart.org/files/nr2...03099.nodvd.rar
Thread: http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27471
Page where link first appeared: http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/showthrea...471&page=95


Have fun guys!

I'm going to be upgrading my sound system in the near future. Not the traditional way either. I'm probably going to keep the stock speaker/amp/sub/head combo that's in my VRX (GTS for the USA), but augment that with an in-car PC. I'm going to be building a Mini-ITX PC with a 500Gb HDD (and yes, I have that many mp3's) and I'll be plugging the audio straight into the amp, splicing where the RCA's go in (I'll have to work out where that is on the amp, but that will come later) and the AV I/O will be via a 7" touchscreen mounted to the dash.

In the time being before I get all this set up, I'm using my laptop plugged into the RCA ports in the dash. My question is, every time I turn on the car when I've been playing CD's, it's automatically in CD mode. But If it was on AUX mode, it just reverts to the radio when turned back on. Is there any way I can set the head unit to retain the AUX mode when powered off/on again? When I eventually get this setup it will be a real pain in the ass if I have to hold down the CD button for 5 seconds every time I get in the car.

Im a newbie here. Im driving GTS 08. i want to replace my front/rear door speakers by myself. i removed everything(door panel,electrical wirings). does anybody know where i can get speaker mount? im going to replace my stock speakers of kicker ds650.

thanks!

Hey, installing a amp off my stock HU, Im using a wire - rca converter, But i cant figure out the colors of my rear left and right speakers. Wire colors that is... I took the door panels off and still they are both lime green / yellow on both sides. And upfront on the stock HU, i find them on the right side plug. But theres only one set. Any1 have any idea what rear left and right speaker colors are coming from the deck??

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/download/...wn_mmcs_01.html

Use the above link to up date the hard drive on the cggb on the Fosgate Music System

I HAVE DONE IT TWICE NOW ITS VERY EASY TO DO!!

11th January 2010

The Gracenote Data base has been updated to May 2009 the link remains the same and its still very easy to down load and install into the MMCS system.

Hi everyone..



I keep getting the followin message when i get in my lancer and turn it on

"Call Active", my phone is working properly.. and no I am not on an active call i basically sit in the car turn the key and poof instead of sync/pair I get call active, any ideas "no there is no call active on my phone" bluetooth issue? my other car works fine.



It used to pair perfectly now I just get Call active.. no matter which phone I use?

Yesterday I got in my car and when I started it I got a warning on the lcd display saying: Low Key Battery. Also showed a battery meter with less than 1/4 of it left. I have two fast key remotes so I just pulled my other one out.

My questions are:

Can I just get a new battery (I assume from the dealer) or do I have get a whole new remote?

Any idea how much a battery or new remote costs?

Is it under warranty?

The remote only lasted 18 months, is that normal? (has anyone else had this?)

I got a digital multimeter but they have no instructions inside.

I just want to know what i turn the knob to to find out if there is a current going there my rocker/AUX switch?

first I'd like to point out I got aftermarket speakers hooked up into my doors and have 2 subs and have two different amps.

so when I was driving I would notice sometimes when I drove over something the same speaker would go out for some reason or sound staticy like on older tv's when you changed it to a channel that didn't exist. then it immediately would fix. I thought nothing of it for like a month. Then my speakers were fine perfect. now it started again. This month it was extremely bad it wouldn't only happen when i drove over something it started happening when my subs would hit really hard and base would vibrate my whole car. the speaker also stopped working for a bit. I took it in and the person told me it was my speaker that it was blown. I took out the speaker put it in the other door and it was fine. I then put it back in connecting it with a new wire (it was a short new wire because it didn't go all the way to my amp it was within my door about 6 inches long). it was still making the noise for the next week but not as bad. now its back to where it was in the beginning making it only sometimes where i could ignore it. I know the problem is still there and that its going to get really bad again like it used to be. I'm not sure what exactly it is and none of the places where i got my speakers and amp install claim it has to do with them. I'm 100% sure its not my speaker thats blown because I've had a speaker blow out on me before and it doesn't come back to life like this one is doing so if anyone could help I'd greatly appreciate it.

Hi everyone. I have a 2008 Mitsu Lancer GTS w/fastkey. I'm wondering if anyone has an autostarter and alarm on this type of vehicle? How does it work with the fast key? I've searched the net and there are bypass modules out there that do not require you to take the car to Mitsu for programming. Is it pointless to have a aftermarket alarm since you have to de-activate (pull out your keys) in order to get into the car? How does it work?

I was thinking of getting a Viper 5901 (start & alarm) or a 5501 (start only) I would like the added security, but I don't like to whip out my keys, I got too use to this lazy fastkey. If the fastkey makes disarming the car difficult I won't get it. Please provide experience / thoughts on adding these to the GTS.

Thanks.