Hi! First of All, I would like to thanks this forum for a very informative and helpful people. I have a 08 Mitshubishi Lancer base model, Loved the car!, Anyways, I decided to tint my tail lights and i would like to share my knowledge to all of you who are needing a step by step guide on how to do this.

Materials Needed:
1. 600 grit sand paper and 1000 grit (fine) sand paper
2. Glass Cleaner
3. Nite Shade Paint
4. Duplicolor Clear Coat
5. Old news paper
6. Masking tape
7. Lots of Patience

First of all, Clean the Tail light with glass cleaner to remove all dust and stuff on your tail light. Then use the 600 grit sand paper first and folow up with the 1000 grit sand paper. Use water while sanding the tail light. Here's the Pic.



and here's the before and after sanding the Tail light.

*Make sure you take your time wet sanding the tail light because you want to have the paint stick to the tail light*

After wet sanding the tail light, apply more glass cleaner to the surface and wipe it with a lint free cloth. after doing this, Use the masking tape and tape the parts that you don't want to get sprayed.

Now you are ready to use the VHT Nite Shade Paint and your Duplicolor Clear coat


Make sure you are in a well ventilated area and a clean environment (free from dust, dog hairs etc) because you do not want those stuff to be on you freshly painted tail lights or you will risk of re-painting the tail lights which is a PITA to be honest. I decided to do this on my 3rd room which is my mini gym/studio but i made sure to clean the surroundings first. Anyway, to prepare you tail Light for painting, Make sure to check sprayer tip of your VHT Nite shade spray, then lay your old news paper on the floor with your tail light slightly facing upward so you wont miss the bottom part (45* angle)
Test the Nite shade spray by spraying the news paper, Practice first before attempting to spray our tail lights. Then, slowly and steadily spray the top part of the tail light by doing a horizontal Left to Right motion, you have to be smooth doing this or else you will risk over spraying and it can turn out ugly. I did 5 to 6 coatings of the paint with 5 minute intervals.

After Painting it with the Nite shade, let it dry for 30 to 45 minutes then apply 3-4 coatings of the Duplicolor Clear Coat and let it sit over night.

Result??


Finished Product


Im sorry i will post more pictures of the tail lights installed on my car in the morning!. I hope this helps! and Good luck!!

Can someone provide me with detailed instructions on how to remove the headlamp housing?

Also, how to adjust the beam pattern?

thx

**UPDATED: Please note that Option 2 is obsolete and superseded by Option 3**

This How-To is for those who would like to install an HID kit in a 2008 Lancer that comes equipped with factory Daytime Running Lights (DRL's).

The advantages of these solutions are:

1) They do NOT require splicing into the factory wiring at all, thus saving any warranty headaches
2) They eliminate the HID Flicker associated with the DRL's

Some background info:

The factory DRL's come on whenever the car is on, the parking brake is down and the headlight switch is in the off position (Position 1) or the middle position (Position 2).

The DRL signal is NOT a constant DC (6V, 9V, etc.) but rather a square waveform peaking at 12VDC and a frequency of about 60Hz (this is better for the bulb longevity than running them at 6V).

It will be assumed that your HID kit has a remote turn-on lead and a relay (30 or 40A).

____________________________________________________________________

Option 1: HID's are ON with switch in Position 1, 2 or 3 (no flicker)

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)



5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out



8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!

**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:




____________________________________________________________________

Option 2 (**SUPERSEDED BY OPTION 3 BELOW): HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

Before starting this option, note that it varies depending on your relay and you may need to use series resistors, etc. to compensate...Option #1 above is recommended.

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay, and extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and **100 or 200uF ONLY**
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Also buy an inductor/choke with a value of 2 Henries or higher - here are some sample inductors:



7) Strip back some insulation from the extra 9006 cable and solder the capacitor in parallel with the two wires




8) Cut one of the cable leads and solder the inductor in Series with it




9) Wrap all the connections with electrical tape
10) Test it out!
____________________________________________________________________

Option 3: HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

This variation has the same overall effect as Option 2 above, but is much more stable, works with all relay types and there is no guesswork about resistor/inductor values...

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay AND extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit
3) With the HID's on, use a voltmeter to determine which wire on the remote turn on lead is ground and which is power (in my case Blue was Power and Black was Ground)
4) Buy the following components from an electronics parts store: IRF510 MOSFET, 50kohm resistor, 28kohm resistor, 2.2uF (anywhere from 2uF to 10uF should work) 25V (or higher) Electrolytic Capacitor
5) The MOSFET has 3 Terminals (in order) - Gate, Drain and Source:



6) The capacitor has two terminals and a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative



7) Resistors have 2 terminals (they are interchangeable)



8) Your 9006 cable has two ends, the female side plugs into the car 9006 harness and the male side plugs into the HID remote turn on lead - you can cut this cable in half so you have a female end with two wires and a male end with two wires - CONFIRM your polarity in Step 3 before continuing



9) Solder time! Be very careful to include ALL of the connections below:

- POSITIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Gate of MOSFET
- NEGATIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Source of MOSFET
- Drain of MOSFET TO Male 9006 Ground Wire
- Female 9006 POWER wire TO one end of 50kohm resistor AND TO Male 9006 Power wire
- Female 9006 Ground wire TO one end of 28kohm resistor AND TO Source of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)
- JOIN the remaining two free ends of the resistors together and solder TO Gate of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)

9) Isolate, insulate and wrap all the connections with electrical tape or shrink tubing
10) Test it out!

Hey. I've been away from the forums for a while so I apologize if I'm repeating something that has already been talked about.
I looked a little if there was a topic on this but didn't find one.

I had some crappy 20 dollar bulbs in for my foglamps just to have a bit of a bluish effect to them. One of my reflectors melted almost completely with those bulbs. So I thought ok it's a bad bulb.
I went to Black Gold Import Parts (http://www.blackgoldimportautoparts.com/ - for you Edmontonians ) and got a cheap replacement for the part.

I got the part off some totaled Lancer. I noticed that he had an after market bulb in there as well (looked like a PIAA) and his reflector was slightly melted as well.

Anyways I replaced my parts and put in Yellow PIAA 9006's. They're melting my REFLECTORS!!
I avoid using them and only turn them on when most necessary for short periods of time because I don't want my reflectors to completely melt again.

Has anyone else run into this problem?
Does anyone have a potential solution for this?
The bulb is rated at the correct wattage, but is it still running to hot?
Would a resistor placed in the circuit help?

I though about painting the reflectors with clear heat resistant paint but I tried that on a piece of the melted reflector and the paint takes away from the reflectiveness and is really hard to paint it so it looks smooth.

Looking forwards to some feedback.

I take no responsibility for anything you do to your vehicle! Read and do this at your own risk!

Well it's cold as hell and I have a bunch of CF Vinyl I wanted to use on my bumper.
While I'm waiting for warmer weather I decided to do my fuel door. Read on!

PS. This was my 3rd time ever applying vinyl to anything, so if I can do it anyone can!

Took roughly an hour to prep and apply.

Stage 1 - Take off the fuel door

Open the fuel door as wide as possible. There are 2 bolts that you need to remove. The fuel cap is attached to the door, you can just pop that off the door (it will pop back in no problem after you're done installing the door again).

[attachmentid=5600]

Stage 2 - The tools

1. The fuel door!
2. Water/soap solution. I used tap water with a couple drops of dish soap.
3. CF Vinyl (got it from eBay, quite cheap for a whole roll of it)
4. Hair dryer with a warm/hot temp setting, low/med/hi speed, and a flat attachment to spread the air better (the attachment really comes in handy later).
5. Some soft yet hard squeegee tool for applying vinyl (getting rid of air bubbles etc. Don't ask me where to get one cause I got in with an order of something else, so just ask around - try vinyl shops etc.

[attachmentid=5598]

Stage 3 - Cut the vinyl

Lay the door on top of the vinyl and cut out an area enough to fully cover the door, also leave some extra for bending around the corners.

[attachmentid=5601]

Then lay the cut vinyl on top of the door and cut off excess square edges (they'll get in your way later, so might as well get rid of them).

[attachmentid=5602]

Stage 4 - Apply the vinyl

Here you must be patient and careful! If this is your first time I suggest you practice if you have vinyl to spare (especially heating and bending corners).
Take your time, take it easy!

Since I really am not an expert I will not go into detail on how to best apply the vinyl. Do some research! Google it! Ask someone who knows what they're doing!

To make the long story short:

Start applying and heating the vinyl properly. Going around the edges is the most tricky part (I messed it up the first time and had to redo it).
You have to feel out how much heat to apply to bend the vinyl around the corners for it not to crack, melt, or bend awkwardly. This is where the hair dryer attachment comes in handy!
Spread any air bubbles with the squeegee.
Boom, done! Install your fuel door and you're good to go.

Back view:
[attachmentid=5603]

Front view:
[attachmentid=5604]

Side view:
[attachmentid=5605]

Texture closeup:
[attachmentid=5606]

A relatively cheap and easy way to have a CF looking fuel door.
Anything goes wrong with it you can just peal it off.
I like it!
I'll take pictures of the car some other day cause it's cold and dark outside.

Have fun.

This is directly copied from http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=288120 posted by Jake26. All credit goes to him. Don't know him, but I hope he won't get mad at me

Front of car:
Front turn signal light: 21watts bulb: WY21W
Head light, high beam: 60watts bulb: 9005 HB3
Head light, low beam: (halogen bulb) 51watts bulb: 9006 HB4
front foglight: 55watts bulb: H11
Front side marker and parking light: 5watts bulb: 168/194
Side turn signal light: 5watts bulb: 168/194


REAR of car:
High mounted stop light: Led
License plate: 5watts bulb: 168/194
back up light: 21watts bulb: 7440
tail light: 5watts bulb: W5W
tail and stop light: 21/5watts bulb 7443
rear turn signal: 21watts bulb: 7440
rear sidemarker: 5watts bulb: W5W


INSIDE CAR
trunk area: 5watts bulb:----- 3022
dome light: 8watts bulb:----- 3022

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
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Grammar guide:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_grammar

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Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

Got the Xenon 6000k low beam (9006) stock 35 watts from AMG with alchemist3136's DRL bypass...all worked fine...no splicing all plug and play. Simple.

For anyone who wants pure white lights and doesn't want to pay the money for HID's, the Hoen light bulbs are a nice alternative.
I got the low beams, fog lights, and the license plate led lights. Cost about $90 US + shipping for all.

Pics of low beam and fog lights:
[attachment=11790:lights_1.jpg] [attachment=11791:lights_2.jpg]
[attachment=11792:hoen_lights_1.jpg]

License plate LED lights:
For comparison, the left side is the stock bulbs, the right side is the Hoen LED light. You can really see the difference between the stock yellow bulbs and the white hoen led.
[attachment=11793:hoen_lights_post_1.JPG]

Both Hoen license plate led lights:
[attachment=11794:hoen_lights_post_2.JPG]

I have a 2009 GTS with HID's and what to replace the parking light bulbs. The problem is that I DON'T have an owners manual so I am having to guess how to to do it. Do I remove the whole light assembly? It so how? Or can the bulbs be reached from under the car? From the engine bay it isn't possible and I have long arms. I know it's a simple thing but I'm in the dark, so to say.

new to the lancer scene , does any one have an 08 lancer gts desert metalic that they have tinted. i want to tint mine but not shure which percentage i should go with to make it look its best. thanks

Hi, I am just wondering how to take out the center console cigarette lighter because i am planning to use the 12v for my led lights strip that i bought from ebay. but i have no idea how to take out the cigarette lighter.
Help please!

Hi
I need to buy the OEM sideskirts for my lancer. I have already bought the rear spoiler and front airdams from R.C. Hill and delivered to Malta europe but R.C. Hill does not ship the sideskirts as he said they are to big. Anyone knows where I can find and ready to ship to Malta.

I haven't had my Lancer very long and I am already spotting a few scratches here and there. I have a nasty stone chip on the hood which I am going to use a touch up pen on as soon as the stealership gets it in. But I have a few scratches around the car and I was wondering what products people have used and with what success...

I have heard about NuFinish scratch doctor, but a friend of mine tried it once and he said it was a waste of $12.

Anybody have any ideas??

Thanks!!

I got my new lower grill garnish and my scuff plates installed. I also painted my engine and spark plug covers.

The pics do the engine cover more justice than it deserves. Up close it doesn't look that great.

What is a good product to use to strip the paint if I decide to try again?

[attachment=11770:PB100027.jpg]

[attachment=11771:PB100032.jpg]

[attachment=11772:photo_7.jpg]

[attachment=11773:PB110036.jpg]

Hey!

I was browsing evolutionm board and right in time as my hid ballast burned out from being on constantly I found this method.

All you need is a HID kit with a harness so the power is coming directly from the battery of the car.
Next step is to splice the remote turn on wire into one of the parking lights located in the headlights.

That creates a complete DRL by pass and so far the most easy one.

I will be trying it out tomorrow will report on the results.

So i want to remove the head lamps without breaking something or scratching my paint...

Also so i can attempt to adjust my headlights.. is there anything i should know?

Like push the lamps in and pull upwards, or just pull it straight forward, out towards the front of the car?

Click to Enlarge

Yep... that would be a single piece vortex generator for the 2008 Lancer! I went with black because it would offer a nice transition to all the blue. The specs you see are dust from my ugly carpet. I'll give you guys 3 guesses as to where I got it!

...

TIME'S UP! If you guessed DKTRL and/or david_kuek, then you are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT! You remember him, right? The guy that nobody believed was legit? Known forum jumper and spammer/scammer? Yeah, that guy...

I can understand being a spammer, but the rumors of him being a scammer are completely false. He even told me that he ONLY accepts PayPal as form of payment. For a seller, PayPal is actually pretty bad because once you send out your item, the buyer has the opportunity to reverse the charges immediately after receiving their item, so I knew I was completely protected.

I bought my piece on August 26th and he quoted me with 6-10 days shipping time to arrive to my house. I received the item at my house on September 1st... exactly 6 days. Promptly responded to all of my e-mails and PM's. Absolute pleasure to do business with. Last time he was active on the board, he said that he was working on a rear diffuser for the bumper and a fiberglass hood with vents. Once production is completed, I plan on grabbing those too.

Right now, I'm in the works to do business as a reseller with him. Just thought I'd share my experience with him.

A wise person once said... "Do not judge a book by it's cover."

P.S: The only reason I am not sporting it at this moment is because of the shark fin antenna. It is designed to sit flush with the OEM antenna.

Hey fellow lancer 08 owners... does anyone know where i can get a rear diffuser? All i can find out there are body kits that come with a diffuser.

This one looks great...
http://www.body-kit.com/lancer2008bodykit.html

but i have to buy it all in a kit

An evo style wud also b really nice

Well. I was looking at splitters on the net, and for 400 bucks, ill pass. I just wanted to let every1 know how easy it is to make one. With a little elbow grease, tools, and know how. Im sure you could make your own. So thats what im going to do, ill post pics. Materials, And hardware i use. I think i could make one for under 100 bucks. I bet about 50. I work at a shop that deals with supplies somewhat the same as they use to make the splitter(other than fiberglass and carbon fiber).

Ill be using a material called Lexan, or Tuffek. In another word its basically a polycarbonate Sheet, About 3/16'' thick (Bullet Proof Glass is made of the same material). Its flexable, will never brake, and im serious. I took a metal bar to the stuff in -30oC weather and nothing. Ill be using stock hardware already on the bumper to mount(might have to get a couple longer bolts with the same thread as on the vehicle as RRM does). And ill be getting the contour of the bumper with a template ill just trace(10mins). Then take those measurements onto Adobe Illustrator and make a perfect replica on the computer(30mins). Ill trace out the digitized image onto the sheet of lexan, cut it with a (lol wont let me put the word "J-I.G") saw. Put a small edge on it using a file(30mins). Paint. Then install with hardware from my local shop.

So thats the plan!, hopefully i can get that done on the weekend. It will take about 2-3 hours in total i think. If u know what ur doing. But itl save me alot of money and give me a proud(hopefully) feeling!. lol. I think the best part will be how ill be able to manipulate the shape of the splitter however i want, and not just the standard curve look. Maybe add some shark fin shapped cut outs. I have no clue, ill post up a pic of the digital drawing(rough) to give an idea of what shape it will be. Anyhow, Ill keep you posted on any updates! I think it will be a cool project.

I don't use the satellite radio and rarely use the normal radio, so for a while I just removed the stock antenna. I didn't want to spend money on something I don't even use, but eventually I got sick of looking at the hole where the antenna should be. So I decided to make my own shorty antenna. It measures 4".

What's needed:
stock RC style antenna
wire cutters

I simply cut the long thin part of the antenna off and left the thicker piece at the bottom. I haven't noticed any issues with reception at all, it's exactly the same as the full antenna. (note I don't use the sat radio so I don't know if it would effect that, but my guess is it wouldn't)

Here's how it looks:
[attachment=11757:shorty_antenna_001.jpg] [attachment=11758:shorty_antenna_004.jpg]
[attachment=11759:shorty_antenna_006.jpg]

Well i stopped by Xtreme graphics today. Made my wallet just a tad lighter haha. This local shop uses tint films, which is basically a translucent vinyl. They said they wanted $60 for tail lights tinted, but I told them I just need them to do the two outer parts of the lights, and I'll do the easier inner lights. So it was $35 for the 2 outer ones, and $10 for a 12" x 30" roll. Got home and finished the rest of it. First try was pretty rough, had a couple air bubbles. 2nd try was oh so easy. I didn't even have to use a heat gun........ hahah. I am loving how it looks, and I like the semi-gloss finish. Lemme know what you guys think!

hmmmmm ive been thinkin bout this for a while now.. the rear spoiler is nice lookin but its annoying and sometimes it blocked lights from the cars behind me.. i drive late nights alot cuz of work so it gets to be a problem because im usually tired after work... just not sure how the lip would look compared to the wing..

Hey guys, my friend's friend is getting rid of his HID kits cuz his costumers blew him off and didn't go through with his purchase. $60 for a 10,000K HID kit. I am almost a hundred percent sure that it comes with everything, but just to clear things up, I have a couple questions. (Btw, I have read the DRL and HID thread that is stickied up top, but just to be sure, I thought I'd ask)

1. What exactly do I need in the kit for it to be a "complete" kit? Harness? Relay?

2. I read through the DRL and HID thread, (http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t31985-how-to--drl39s-and-hid39s.htm) and I am thinking about the 1st option. Is this up to date? I was reading around the thread, and people still get the flicker problem. What is the ultimate fix for that? Option #3 just seems pretty complicated, but maybe that's just me

3. If I do option 1, will the DRL still be active?

any1 know where in NY i can get a front bumper, driver side headlight and driver side fender? victim of a hit and run =[ bout to kill somebody!!! lol but anyway, any1 know where i can get it for cheap? its for a 2009 lancer

Finally after way too much B.S....dealing with multiple alignments from the idiots @ my local NTB shops.....& finally having to take it to another shop to have it done properly......

Then after having issues with my new tires........finally getting another set to fix everything......yep....set #4! So I def. have input on tires for our car LOL!

Since all that is done.....I finally went ahead & did my rims yesterday. I really wasn't too hard at all. I used at least 1 can per wheel. It pretty much turned out to be at least 8 or more coats that I put on....1 thing that you have to do is stop every couple of sprays & shake the can for about 5 seconds or more. If I didn't do that I would get some splattering effect which I would have to wipe off & respray.
The front rims have a little less shine that the rears......the rears I sprayed alittle differently. I would spray just enough on the fins of the wheel to where the paint would lightly pool on the surface.....not enough to make the paint run mind you.....& by doing it that way instead of a light coarting.....it would dry & have a slight shine to the finsished product.
It's not a night & day difference....but it is slightly noticeable....To help the paint dry I would use the wife's hair dryer & hold it about 2' away & just let it do it's thing.

Any of the overspray that went onto the tire easily pulled right off after everthing was dry. Anything left was removed by rubbing a shop rag around the tire & everything came right off.

I wanted to do something different with the center caps....like painting the Mitsu logo red.....aahhhh...maybe next time.....enough delay...here it is:


[attachment=11522:0919091805.jpg]



Here it is on the front end:


[attachment=11523:0711091507.jpg]



Heres the new tires I put on this time around:


[attachment=11524:091609152201.jpg]



So...be honest.....what do you think? About all I have left to do....besides to clean the filthy girl, is to get the windows tinted & I still want to get her tuned.

So i bought some bulbs off ebay but everyone says how it overheats melts the housing and wiring so i decided to not even install them

But everyone was saying how great HOEN bulbs were so i was going to get the

9005 hb3 for my high beams
h11 for the fog lights
(Already have HIDS)

I looked all over their webside and could not find a good source of contact.
I have called the number (831) 417-2623 but it goes straight to an answering machine that never called me back
I also left an email that never got replied.

It said it was about $25 for shipping and i wanted to talk to them about group shipping charges so i would only have to pay $25 one time, because $50 doesnt really seem worth it anymore...

Thanks

any vendors or website that would happen to make an automatic shift boot?

OK, I just finished installing the Mitsubishi lower grille garnish on my ES. I think it looks great. It's just too bad this $5.00 piece of plastic sells for $150.00 at Mitsubishi.

Anyway, here are the pics:

After much procrastination due to my lack of a job + my mom worrying about my car being to "ghetto". I just went ahead and plasti-dipped my grille, and painted the emblem on it black. Here are some pics:

After i finished plasti-dipping:


What it looked like on my car:


Started painting the logo:


Plasti-dipped grille + painted logo:


End Result (gonna take a better pic tomorrow morning):



In your guys opinion, how do you think the emblem would look if there was a smaller red diamond inside the black ones? Or should it just stay black?

Hey Everyone i have an 08 Lancer GTS loaded and my wife has an 08 Outlander Loaded V6. I am writing this here cus the systems are pretty much the same from what i have seen and i hope someone else has seen this. All of the dome lights do not work at night, ONLY at night. During the day it's fine. I am not sure what is up. I am to lazy to bring it to mitsubishi so i hope someone here knows or has an idea what is up.

Has anyone installed side and/or sunroof wind deflectors on their 08 lancer?
I ordered some and am curious to know how they look. I guess if no-one else posts pics, I will once mine arrive.

On another note, the wind deflection is really bad on these lancers without the deflectors, in my opinion. I'm hoping the deflectors will help.
I can't even roll my window down currently because so much wind comes in.

I was flipping through the forum looking for LED threads, found one but was dissapointed when it had no info. Then I used the search function and came up with little info to my topic, that or I might be retarded, not sure which yet.

I want to install orange LED lights to match the factory button color, under my dash and seats. The seats in the rear don't have light, so I thought LEDs would be nice. I want to keep my car stock though, so that means no tampering or cutting of wires. I might be willing to run a wire to the battery though, or if I must, then to a set of batteries with a toggle switch or a cigarette lighter plug in. Anyone have wiring info to help me out? Can I wire directly to the battery with some fuses and switches in-between? What resistors should I used on the LEDs? Or perhaps to a cigarette lighter insert?

So i bought some highs, lows, and fogs. I now have white/blue highs and lows, and i heard about the fog light issue. Well i purchased some Putco Jet Yellow bulbs for the fogs and they are fine, incase any1 is looking. Ive ran them for hours straight and the housing isnt even hot. Stock harness aswell. So they are safe. Ebay them. About 30 bucks shipped.

I know there is the bulb list, but i still don't really get it.

http://hoen-usa.com/ti.htm

So the 9006 would be right for the head light low beams, also i just need to buy the bulbs and switch them out right?

Thanks in advance.

So i bought a bunch of these hole plugs, but i only needed two and maybe 10 for the future.

I was wondering if anyone had any cheap ways of wrapping/sending these to people that would want them (Given they send me the money for packaging and stamps and maybe a buck profit lol)

Be glad to send 3 or 4 to everyone.

So based on a great review by EVOSOUL, I placed an order for the VOLT 6000K Digital+ HID Kit from KBCarStuff.com. Cost was about $150CDN shipped and expected to arrive in about 10-15 business days (Hopefully sooner!) I'll have pictures posted as soon as I get them installed. These kits are supposed to be plug and play with the factory harness and the ballasts are digitally controlled. Special instructions did have to be forwarded to the merchant to include the DRL bypass unit. I emailed EVOSOUL about the product and was very helpful about it. so I would like to thank him for helping me to decide to purchase this.

EVOSOUL, being based in Toronto, has given this product high praise and reviews (Canadian Winter Certified ) and has alot of blog posts about many products for our Lancers.

I am not here to promote EVOSOUL in any way, just stating my source for this VOLT product.

Regards.

Finally finished it.... Pretty sexy with the red calipers

I saw them a WHILLLEE back, but don't remember where. Has it been done?

So i installed my HID kit, and it looks super nice and all but when i turn on my high beams the ugly yellow returns, so i was wondering what bulb everyone suggests me replacing my High beams with to keep the clean white/blue look (without chaning any of the wires to prevent melting)?

would the "Nokya Arctic purple headlight bulbs (9005/hb3) Nok7311" be any good?

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Also, while i was searching for this, i stumbled upon adjusting the low beams so the road could be more visable (i drive alot of highway KM's) and no one replied on a working link for adjusting it? any new links?

I know everyone just said you adjust the 10mm bolt but im new with working on cars. The step by step video instructions are my saviour, mostly because i dont know alot of car terms "yet".

Hi everyone,
I am new here and i just recently purchased a lancer GTS 2009 with a CVT transmission. Is the shift rod on the manual transmission the same as the shift rod on the CVT transmission because i would like to replace the knob in my car but there isnt much knobs available for the CVT transmission.

so i got my hid's a while ago and right when i installed them i had the flickering problem and all that good stuff and also later on just one worked, SO later i bought the DRL Bypass from J-ROX and it didnt seem to work, so i called the my shop and tried to figure out what the hell was going on, for fun he pretty much said switch the bulbs from left to right and right to left. i did... and then that worked for... the night. the next day just one worked, BUT the one that worked was the one that didnt work before and vis versa(sorry, very confusing even i get mixed up, appologies) so the guy at the shop oredered me new BULBS?? so i was thinkin hmmm i dont know why he would do that because its more obvious that maybe the hid "box" was effed up... so i put em in and boom, worked, but still one goes out every once in a while, i leave em on all the time... which isnt good im about to just go back with stock bulbs,,, gay. anyone help??? or have this same problem? thanks so much guys.

Hello All
Thought i might bring you up to date on the new release worldwide of the new tail lights for the lancer sedan 08-
There are USA spec and Jap/Australia/Singapore spec.Uses orginal connectors and comes with extra bulbs supplied.
The factory finished these late last month and the first production runs have just become available for preorder.
There is clear lens or light smoked.
Stop/Tail is LED and they have the correct E mark or ECE certification for road use.
These lamps will be approx $550AUD for the full set of 4 pcs.
Design has taken ages and fit is excellent and overall quality is OEM.
find them here

Hello everyone,
I have my 08 Lancer and am currently going through upgrading her look before the performance stuff begins (waiting for more options). Well I am at the step where i am wanting to modify the lights. I plan to get the black LEDs for the back of the vehicle and for the front i had the idea of getting lights like the new Audi R8. Well, after some searching i found nightzconcepts who posted this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tx5_OXMKKTM&feature=fvw) with the lights i want, well except for the red at the end. After much searching i couldn't find anything about obtaining said headlights. I am writing to see if anyone else has either had experience with nightzconcepts or has any idea on how to obtain/create such lights?

Thanks for your time

Spare grille from NY-09GTS - $30, 2 cans of plastidip - $12, gutter saver from home depot $3, painter's tape $5, beer $10. And here's the outcome

Before


After ......... you cant see in this pic, but i actually took the mitsu part out all together and made a mesh grille insert instead, made out of "gutter saver".



And here's a pic of her A$$



Eat that RRM with your $179 grille lol

hey I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS, Aqua Metallic and loving it! For the longest time I've been in love with BMW's style of HID's with the Circle of HID light around the bulb for the Daytime Running lights. I was wondering since that Lancer has round headlights if there is a place that sells those style of lights for the Lancer?

here's a picture of what I want to get, see attachment or here is the link http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8945/sig5di6.jpg

I'm sure I'm not the only one. The new Lancer's paint scratches so easy and it seems to dent even easier. The first week of having my Lancer my friend puts a big dent right in the door using his palm to shut the door! I also see a quite a few when looking at it from the right angle. I also have a few chips and I've only had this thing for a month. I can't be the only one? Heres your chance to vent about your dented lancer!!!

Hey guys,

Saw this video on youtube where the guy has an LED strip located on his headlights where it looks like the Audi R8 city lights. Very interesting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WroGlSkyFaw...feature=related

What do you guys think?

My Shark Fin finally arrived looks so much better than the R/C of the stock antenna. A little blue radio bar to go with th neons already in che car. I also changed my liscens plate bulbs with LED blue one. Will take pics of the other stuff I mentioned.

When comes to front bumper blackout, there are now 3 options.. vinyl, plastidip and regular paint. Plastidip is like a virus (not saying a bad one) spreading very quickly. I just want to know what you guys prefer and why.

Vinyl - hard to put on, requires heat gun or good hair dryer for smooth application around corners.

Paint - Goes on and dries easy.. No turning back from it though

PlastiDip - same as paint, but claim that its reversable.. So my question is, has anyone actually tried to take it off? I put about 4 coats on smooth plastic part i had laying around just to try - and sorry to break it to you, there aint no coming back from it. You have to use flat screw driver or knife/razor to get under it and start the process - thus damaging the plastic itself.