This is directly copied from http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=288120 posted by Jake26. All credit goes to him. Don't know him, but I hope he won't get mad at me

Front of car:
Front turn signal light: 21watts bulb: WY21W
Head light, high beam: 60watts bulb: 9005 HB3
Head light, low beam: (halogen bulb) 51watts bulb: 9006 HB4
front foglight: 55watts bulb: H11
Front side marker and parking light: 5watts bulb: 168/194
Side turn signal light: 5watts bulb: 168/194


REAR of car:
High mounted stop light: Led
License plate: 5watts bulb: 168/194
back up light: 21watts bulb: 7440
tail light: 5watts bulb: W5W
tail and stop light: 21/5watts bulb 7443
rear turn signal: 21watts bulb: 7440
rear sidemarker: 5watts bulb: W5W


INSIDE CAR
trunk area: 5watts bulb:----- 3022
dome light: 8watts bulb:----- 3022

Disclaimer: This tutorial was developed as a visual aid in removing the Front bumper and installing the APR front wind splitter on a 2008-2009 Mitsubishi Lancer. In no way shall the writer be held responsible for damaged incurred on your vehicle while performing the following activities. Also note that any damage done by you will not be covered by the vehicles warranty. By performing these activities you do so at your own risk.

APR Carbon Fiber Front Wind Splitter install:
(also includes front bumper removal instructions which are useful in other applications as well)
There are no instructions that come with this install so I decided to write this up. Give yourself 2-4 hours install time, depending on how fast you work.

How they work:
It creates slow moving air above the splitter and fast moving air below the splitter and front of the car. Slow air has high pressure, fast air has low pressure. High pressure above and low pressure below creates negative lift which equals positive downforce. Also has a fully functional under tray to promote smoother air flow under the car.
http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?op...4&Itemid=44


Tools required:
Phillips head screwdriver, Flat head screwdriver
Socket wrench, 3” socket wrench extension (or longer), Small socket adapter
13mm socket, 10mm socket, 8mm socket
5/16” or 8mm wrench
5mm Hex head (allen wrench)
Drill, 8mm or 5/16” drill bit

Bumper Removal:
1) Remove the 5 bolts on the front underside of the bumper under the front lower grill. These attached the stock debris cover to the bumper.
[attachment=11176:1.jpg]
2) Remove the four plastic snap clips from the debris shield on the bottom of the passenger side by prying out the centre piece and pulling the clips out. Do the same on the drivers’ side, except there are only three on this side.
[attachment=11177:2.jpg]
3) Turn the front wheels of the car so you can get into the wheel well. In the wheel wells, towards the outside, are two more plastic clips with a Philips head. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove these two clips.
[attachment=11178:3.jpg]
4) Remove the screw that’s securing the bumper to the fender. (one on each side)
[attachment=11179:4.jpg]
5) Remove the black covers located on the lower grill with a flat head screwdriver and remove the two bolts behind the covers. (extension needed to reach them)
[attachment=11180:5.jpg]
6) Pop your hood and remove your air intake tube by removing the two screw clips with the Philips screwdriver. Remove the radiator cover by popping the four plastic clips out with a flat head screwdriver.
[attachment=11181:6.jpg]
7) Remove the 5 bolts that hold the bumper in place, and disconnect the fog lamp connector (if you have them).
[attachment=11182:7.jpg]
8) Now that everything is disconnected, stand on the side of the wheel well, grab the bumper on the inside of the wheel well and pull towards you until you create a gap between the bumper and the fender. Then, yank it upwards; it should separate from the clips holding it on. Do this on both sides of the car. There is also a clip under each headlight, but pulling hard enough should separate it as well. (requires you to yank pretty hard, be careful, it’s best to put a blanket down under the bumper as it may fall to the ground)
[attachment=11183:8.jpg]
9) Bumper is now disconnected and you should be able to remove the entire piece.
[attachment=11184:9.jpg]


APR Carbon Fiber Front Wind Splitter install:
10) Now remove the stock debris cover. Remove one screw from each side of the wheel well plastic cover that connects to the debris cover. Then underneath you’ll see a bunch of push clips holding it on. Remove those and the debris cover will come right off.
[attachment=11185:10.jpg] [attachment=11186:11.jpg]
11) Remove the stock screw mounting clips from the bumper mounting holes, just pull them off.
[attachment=11187:12.jpg]
12) Next, line up your bumper on the splitter. Center it side to side and line up the back edge of the bumper with the back edge of the splitter. This will give you about 2” overhang in the front. Use a tape measure. Take your time and make sure it’s lined up and centered perfectly.
[attachment=11188:13.jpg] [attachment=11189:14.jpg]
13) You will use the 12 mounting brackets on the inside of the bumper to mount the bumper to the splitter. Use these holes to mark where you need to drill. I just made a starter hole with the drill in the center of each mounting point. Move the bumper out of the way and drill your holes using the 8mm or 5/16” drill bit.
[attachment=11190:15.jpg]
14) Cut off the back corners of the stock debris cover, the part that connects the wheel well cover to the stock debris cover. These will be mounted between the splitter and bumper and used to connect the wheel well cover to the splitter.
[attachment=11191:16.jpg]
15) Insert the provided bolts into the holes you drilled in the splitter. Insert them from the bottom, threads should be up with the washer on the underside of the splitter. Put your corner pieces you cut out from step 14 over the last bolt on each side. Place your bumper on the splitter. Each bolt should go thru the 12 mounting holes on the bumper. Once the bumper is in place add the provided nuts and tighten them down to secure the bumper to the splitter.
16) On the front of the splitter locate the location of where you’d like to mount the connecting rods. The location can be at your discretion. I used the holes on the lower grill to secure the top of the rod. I used the top row of holes, 4th hole in from the edge. Mount the top part of the rod and let it hang straight down. This will give you the location of where to drill the holes in the splitter to connect the bottom. Mark where you will drill on the splitter. Use a tape measure and make sure where you’re going to drill is the same on each side. Drill your holes.
17) Now put your bumper back on the car. Lift it up, put it on the car, and line up the top engine bay bolts. Put a bolt in hand tight on each side to hold it in place. Press the bumper in from the front, making sure to get the clips lined up with the holes under the lights. Press the sides in where the bumper meets the fender.
18) Secure the top 5 bolts. Reconnect your fog lamp connector. Secure the 2 bolts in the lower grill and replace the caps. Secure the bumper to the fender, one screw on each side. Secure the wheel well covers to the pieces you cut off the stock debris cover, one screw, one push clip on each side. Secure the wheel well cover to the bumper using the two Phillips push clips. Install your radiator cover and intake tube.
19) Secure the bottom part of the connector rods to the splitter using the holes you drilled. Adjust the rods so they are tight.
[attachment=11192:17.jpg]

That’s it. Splitter installed.

Good afternoon ladies, gentlemen and robots! I finally broke down and bought the Mitsubishi mud guards because I could hear the little rocks ping the side of my car anytime I drove down a street at slow speeds. And while the instructions they came with were extremely simple, and the installation was very very easy, I thought it would be a good idea to make a tutorial anyway. And someone who may have been too afraid to do it themselves might learn a thing or two. So it is a win win situation. I hope. Aight, back off now. Please stay 3 feet away from me at all times I get claustrophobic!

PS: Sorry for all errors and lack of judgment, I should not be writing this at 12:30AM.

FRONT MUD GUARDS:

The front mud guards were so incredibly easy that I did it in about 5 minutes, though it took longer because I had to take a few pictures every once in a while.
[attachment=12016:DSC03015.JPG]

Step 1: Turn your wheels so you can easily get to the inner wheel well and then start scrubbin! We need everything nice and clean, free of oil and grime and hand prints and roadkill. I suggest, once you use a bit of soap and water, that you finish up with rubbing alcohol so no residue is left on the surface where the mud guard will be.
[attachment=12015:DSC03014.JPG]

Step 2: Underneath is a screw, remove it with a philips screw driver, it comes out very easy so no sweat.
[attachment=12017:DSC03019.JPG]

Step 3: Allrighty, now it is time to pop the clips, just use a flathead and it should be easy. If it is not easy, work your way around with the flat head pushing a bit on each side, eventually it will come up allowing you to pull on it.
[attachment=12018:DSC03020.JPG]

Step 4: Stay with me now!! Check it, the mud guards came with these clips. Lift the black plastic up and insert the clips, make sure the "dimple" is not facing you, it needs to stick into the hole. See pic for details.
[attachment=12019:DSC03021.JPG]

Step 5: Ok, so it comes with some...uhh hex head screws...I think thats what they are called. Put the black plastic back and then get the screws ready.
[attachment=12020:DSC03022.JPG]

Step 6: IF all of the surfaces are CLEAN AND DRY, get the guard ready and peel the red protective cover off of the tape, then line it up and stick it on. The tape is strong, make sure to get it right the first time.
[attachment=12021:DSC03023.JPG]

Step 7: Now screw everything down. You pretty much have replaced those clips with screws. If you tighten too much you end up digging into the plastic so watch for that. Now for some reason, on one of mine I could not get the underside screw back in, I have no idea why. But whatever.
[attachment=12022:DSC03025.JPG][attachment=12023:DSC03026.JPG]

Step 8: Sit back and marvel at how it looks. It is functional, and does not detract from the look of the car. And it is a damn easy installation! The back ones though...slightly different story.
[attachment=12024:DSC03024.JPG]

REAR MUD GUARDS:

These rear guards are not difficult to install but it requires some drilling. The drilling kind of grinded my gears a bit but I got over it when I saw the end result. Clean the area well please, just like with the front guards. Thank you.
[attachment=12025:DSC03027.JPG]

Step 1: The instructions come with these cutout template to help with the drilling. If you are not perfect in aligning them, you will be unable to clip one of the clips. It isn't a huge issue, but it will rattle like crazy and ruin the paint if you dont have that one clip. Anyway, cutout the template, be precise please.
[attachment=12026:DSC03028.JPG]

Step 2: Take these clips and get a big philips screw driver and twist it slightly to pop it out. It might be hard to get in there because you cannot turn the tires but you will manage! These clips are square, kinda cool.
[attachment=12027:DSC03029.JPG]
[attachment=12028:DSC03030.JPG]

Step 3: Pop out the underside clip, it was a pain for me to pull out and then water went all over cause I had just cleaned it with the hose. You have been warned!
[attachment=12029:DSC03031.JPG]

Step 4: You can see here how this cutout thing works. I cutout those holes in the paper because you have to drill there. I placed it on the mud guard to see that the holes were the same distance. One hole was the bottom clip, we have to drill a second hole though to secure the guard. There is a left and right side, the left being driver and right being passenger. Line the paper up and tape it in place. I used painters tape, no problems removing it.
[attachment=12030:DSC03032.JPG]
[attachment=12031:DSC03034.JPG]

Step 5: Drill a small hole, then a bigger hole. You need to get up to 9mm. Drill bits eat through the bumper like butter so it was very easy. Start small and work your way up through the drill sizes. I actually did not end up wrapping the bit in anything, there was nothing but hollow space behind the bumper.
[attachment=12032:DSC03036.JPG]

Step 6: File down the inside of your new hole and a bit on the outside, this will help make everything flat. They recommend putting something on it to prevent corrosion but I didn't do that, maybe I should have? I wasn't sure what to use anyway.
[attachment=12033:DSC03037.JPG]

Step 7: You are given grommets to put in those square holes because we will now be using screws to finish everything off. Attach the guard, and then use the bolts given to finish the job. I could not get a screw driver in there so I used a 10mm wrench to tighten the bolts. Underneath you now have to use two clips (cause you drilled the whole) to fasten everything down. Sorry I did no get a pic of those grommets haha.
[attachment=12034:DSC03038.JPG]
[attachment=12035:DSC03040.JPG]

Step 8: Step back and take a look, you are now done! clean everything up and admire your work. If you drilled those wholes right the guard should be pressed firmly to the bumper with no gaps, that's what you are aiming to achieve.
[attachment=12036:DSC03041.JPG]

Lets take a nice big step back, and see the product from a distance...or at least try too.
[attachment=12045:DSC03044.JPG]
[attachment=12046:DSC03047.JPG]
[attachment=12047:DSC03048.JPG]
[attachment=12048:DSC03049.JPG]


Thank you for watching! Hopefully today's lesson has given you new insight to the world around you. With this new knowledge, you can now set off into the world a changed man with fresh understanding of the universe and mud guard installation. Have a great day, and see you next time!

**UPDATED: Please note that Option 2 is obsolete and superseded by Option 3**

This How-To is for those who would like to install an HID kit in a 2008 Lancer that comes equipped with factory Daytime Running Lights (DRL's).

The advantages of these solutions are:

1) They do NOT require splicing into the factory wiring at all, thus saving any warranty headaches
2) They eliminate the HID Flicker associated with the DRL's

Some background info:

The factory DRL's come on whenever the car is on, the parking brake is down and the headlight switch is in the off position (Position 1) or the middle position (Position 2).

The DRL signal is NOT a constant DC (6V, 9V, etc.) but rather a square waveform peaking at 12VDC and a frequency of about 60Hz (this is better for the bulb longevity than running them at 6V).

It will be assumed that your HID kit has a remote turn-on lead and a relay (30 or 40A).

____________________________________________________________________

Option 1: HID's are ON with switch in Position 1, 2 or 3 (no flicker)

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)



5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out



8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!

**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:




____________________________________________________________________

Option 2 (**SUPERSEDED BY OPTION 3 BELOW): HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

Before starting this option, note that it varies depending on your relay and you may need to use series resistors, etc. to compensate...Option #1 above is recommended.

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay, and extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and **100 or 200uF ONLY**
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Also buy an inductor/choke with a value of 2 Henries or higher - here are some sample inductors:



7) Strip back some insulation from the extra 9006 cable and solder the capacitor in parallel with the two wires




8) Cut one of the cable leads and solder the inductor in Series with it




9) Wrap all the connections with electrical tape
10) Test it out!
____________________________________________________________________

Option 3: HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

This variation has the same overall effect as Option 2 above, but is much more stable, works with all relay types and there is no guesswork about resistor/inductor values...

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay AND extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit
3) With the HID's on, use a voltmeter to determine which wire on the remote turn on lead is ground and which is power (in my case Blue was Power and Black was Ground)
4) Buy the following components from an electronics parts store: IRF510 MOSFET, 50kohm resistor, 28kohm resistor, 2.2uF (anywhere from 2uF to 10uF should work) 25V (or higher) Electrolytic Capacitor
5) The MOSFET has 3 Terminals (in order) - Gate, Drain and Source:



6) The capacitor has two terminals and a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative



7) Resistors have 2 terminals (they are interchangeable)



8) Your 9006 cable has two ends, the female side plugs into the car 9006 harness and the male side plugs into the HID remote turn on lead - you can cut this cable in half so you have a female end with two wires and a male end with two wires - CONFIRM your polarity in Step 3 before continuing



9) Solder time! Be very careful to include ALL of the connections below:

- POSITIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Gate of MOSFET
- NEGATIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Source of MOSFET
- Drain of MOSFET TO Male 9006 Ground Wire
- Female 9006 POWER wire TO one end of 50kohm resistor AND TO Male 9006 Power wire
- Female 9006 Ground wire TO one end of 28kohm resistor AND TO Source of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)
- JOIN the remaining two free ends of the resistors together and solder TO Gate of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)

9) Isolate, insulate and wrap all the connections with electrical tape or shrink tubing
10) Test it out!

Hey. I've been away from the forums for a while so I apologize if I'm repeating something that has already been talked about.
I looked a little if there was a topic on this but didn't find one.

I had some crappy 20 dollar bulbs in for my foglamps just to have a bit of a bluish effect to them. One of my reflectors melted almost completely with those bulbs. So I thought ok it's a bad bulb.
I went to Black Gold Import Parts (http://www.blackgoldimportautoparts.com/ - for you Edmontonians ) and got a cheap replacement for the part.

I got the part off some totaled Lancer. I noticed that he had an after market bulb in there as well (looked like a PIAA) and his reflector was slightly melted as well.

Anyways I replaced my parts and put in Yellow PIAA 9006's. They're melting my REFLECTORS!!
I avoid using them and only turn them on when most necessary for short periods of time because I don't want my reflectors to completely melt again.

Has anyone else run into this problem?
Does anyone have a potential solution for this?
The bulb is rated at the correct wattage, but is it still running to hot?
Would a resistor placed in the circuit help?

I though about painting the reflectors with clear heat resistant paint but I tried that on a piece of the melted reflector and the paint takes away from the reflectiveness and is really hard to paint it so it looks smooth.

Looking forwards to some feedback.

Hi! First of All, I would like to thanks this forum for a very informative and helpful people. I have a 08 Mitshubishi Lancer base model, Loved the car!, Anyways, I decided to tint my tail lights and i would like to share my knowledge to all of you who are needing a step by step guide on how to do this.

Materials Needed:
1. 600 grit sand paper and 1000 grit (fine) sand paper
2. Glass Cleaner
3. Nite Shade Paint
4. Duplicolor Clear Coat
5. Old news paper
6. Masking tape
7. Lots of Patience

First of all, Clean the Tail light with glass cleaner to remove all dust and stuff on your tail light. Then use the 600 grit sand paper first and folow up with the 1000 grit sand paper. Use water while sanding the tail light. Here's the Pic.



and here's the before and after sanding the Tail light.

*Make sure you take your time wet sanding the tail light because you want to have the paint stick to the tail light*

After wet sanding the tail light, apply more glass cleaner to the surface and wipe it with a lint free cloth. after doing this, Use the masking tape and tape the parts that you don't want to get sprayed.

Now you are ready to use the VHT Nite Shade Paint and your Duplicolor Clear coat


Make sure you are in a well ventilated area and a clean environment (free from dust, dog hairs etc) because you do not want those stuff to be on you freshly painted tail lights or you will risk of re-painting the tail lights which is a PITA to be honest. I decided to do this on my 3rd room which is my mini gym/studio but i made sure to clean the surroundings first. Anyway, to prepare you tail Light for painting, Make sure to check sprayer tip of your VHT Nite shade spray, then lay your old news paper on the floor with your tail light slightly facing upward so you wont miss the bottom part (45* angle)
Test the Nite shade spray by spraying the news paper, Practice first before attempting to spray our tail lights. Then, slowly and steadily spray the top part of the tail light by doing a horizontal Left to Right motion, you have to be smooth doing this or else you will risk over spraying and it can turn out ugly. I did 5 to 6 coatings of the paint with 5 minute intervals.

After Painting it with the Nite shade, let it dry for 30 to 45 minutes then apply 3-4 coatings of the Duplicolor Clear Coat and let it sit over night.

Result??


Finished Product


Im sorry i will post more pictures of the tail lights installed on my car in the morning!. I hope this helps! and Good luck!!

Can someone provide me with detailed instructions on how to remove the headlamp housing?

Also, how to adjust the beam pattern?

thx

Many hours and a can of Plasti-Dip later, I have given my car the spirit of evolution (thats what I call this project lol). Seeing as I now have knowledge on the subject I might as well write up a tutorial of some sort for everyone else. So here it goes!

This is a very easy modification to complete, it can be a bit time consuming if you dropped a plastic clip into the engine and still have not found it. If you plan to black out the front end of your Lancer so it looks similar to the EVO, listen up!

Step 1: Remove the license plate, self explanatory. Then unscrew the two screws at the air intake, very simple!
CLICK TO ENLARGE


Once complete, there are four black circle clips holding down the big black piece where the air intake rests on. I dont know what you could call it so bare with me! Take a flathead screwdriver and pop up the disk on each one, then you can actually pull them out.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

[WARNING: Don't let any of those clips shoot up and disappear into the engine, I spent 2 hours looking for one and jacked up the car and used a mirror and everything. Still cant find it, so I have to risk it melting to something.] Once you have the 4 clips out, the black piece should come off easy, just pull it up and away!

Step 2: Stop looking for the black clip in the engine compartment, you wont find it. Instead, get a philips screw driver and make it short, we need to remove the grill. If you remove the grill it makes life sooooooo much easier. You need a short screwdriver or a ratcheting screw driver because there is not a lot of room to unscrew the grill. Luckily its very easy, there should be 8 screws total, 4 of which unscrew the grill itself. The other 4 smaller screws remove the black criss-cross pattern and Mitsubishi logo from the chrome portion of the grille. There are also 4 clips, they brake easy, so be gentle when you pull the grille out. If you have a wife or a girlfriend, this concept should be no stranger to you lol. You can tape it like I did or spray the entire thing, it does not matter.
CLICK TO ENLARGE


Step 3: This is one of the parts that sucks. We don't want to get the rest of the car dirty so we need to tape and paper off everything. If I catch you using scotch tape or duct tape I will destroy you so stick to the blue painters tape, it comes off easy and doesn't leave residue on the paint. Tape off everything you don't want black. Feel free to follow my example in the picture. The paper works great for covering big distances.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

Now I went a step further and blacked out the bottom fins and lip of the bumper. See it in this next pic, taping this off sucked cause its hard to get it even, and to decide how exactly you want it. I probably could have gotten creative and made something to make them even but I didn't, turned out ok though!
CLICK TO ENLARGE


Step 4: Hopefully you taped up everything nice and well, now we get dirty and start the spraying!! Please, DO THIS IN A NON-WINDY, WELL VENTILATED AREA. The wind will mess everything up. I had no wind for the first 4 coats, then it came at the last minute and made it difficult. Anyway, enough about me, lets talk about you. You will need to spray this kinda like a typewriter, start at the top and go all the way across at an even pace. Start spraying on the tape first, then spray across and stop spraying on the tape at the other end. Move down a bit, and repeat. You DON'T WANT OVER SPRAY. Whats that? Its when you overlap too much with the layer above that you just sprayed. Overlap about half an inch. So look at this pic and try to figure it out yourself.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

"How many layers Duffmaster? Please tell us the secret!" F U, go away! Ok fine, I did about 6 layers, but you could probably get away with 4 if you wanted too. I might have even gone 8, there gets a point where it looks the same even if you keep adding onto it. I waited 15 minutes between each coat, it is still somewhat smooth and doesn't have that rubber look. Because I did the lower part of the grill and the fins, it took me 1 can and 1/8th of another can. So if you do just the bar and grille, only one can is needed. Once done I let it all dry for 30 minutes.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

CLICK TO ENLARGE


Step 5: This part sucks as well. Time to remove the tape and paper!! Get a razor blade and some popcorn with a nice cold beer. If you want to do it right, it will take you some time. About 20 minutes. Its simple but time consuming, just remove the paper and tape on the outside first, cut as much of it off as you can without getting to the black part. Cut off even more than this picture shows.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

Now time to sweat bullets as you try to peel off the tape without peeling the Plasti-Dip with it. Use the razor to cut it as you peel, get close, you don't want to lift up the plasti-dip. If you do, don't worry too much, a little bit is ok but don't make it a habit. GO SLOW, thats why I had you get popcorn and a good beer.

Step 6: Step back, cry a bit at how beautiful it looks from far away, then cry some more at how horrible the edges look close up. Don't worry, the edges look great unless your about a foot from it. If you need too, you can get a small brush, spray the plasti-dip in the cap, and brush it on the parts you need to. You will need to apply a ton of coats though. But from a distance it looks damn good! And everything else, except the edges, look great from any distance!
CLICK TO ENLARGE

CLICK TO ENLARGE


Step 7: Cry just a bit more because your a poser who doesn't actually have an EVO. But take comfort in knowing that most of us are the same way. Counseling services are a short phone call away!

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
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How to use punctuation correctly:
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Grammar guide:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_grammar

And finally...
How to Avoid Acting Like an Idiot on the Internet: (Note:Rule #5)
http://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Acting-Like-a...on-the-Internet


If these helpful links simply aren't enough, there are numerous places on the internet to download a spell check program. That, or you could use Firefox as your internet browser while using our forums. Firefox will underline any word you may spell wrong, allowing you to simply right click your mouse to find the appropriate spelling.
Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

Hi, I just finished installing the 'Osram Powered Digital Control Ultra Slim Ballast HID Conversion Kit, size 9006 8000K' (http://store.ijdmtoy.com/JDM-Osram-Ultra-Slim-Ballast-HID-Conversion-Kit-p/hid_kit.htm) from ijdmtoy.com, on my 2008 GTS and am having a few problems. The lights will only turn on if my car is off.

Here are the problems:
If I turn my lights on then start my car they stay on.
After I start my engine when the lights are on, if I turn them off then back on they wont work.
If I start my engine then turn my lights on it does nothing.
My brights work fine

I'm not sure if this is a common problem but I was wondering if anyone could help! Ive looked through all the forums and could not find anyone that had this problem (Please don't prove me wrong...). I assumed buying a relay harness to bypass the DRLs would fix the problem. My friend has a "HID Fuse Relay Wire Wiring Harness 9005 9006 9007 H1" he got online. We installed it on my car and it worked great, Fixing all the problems I listed above, however, the harness would vibrate and make a loud noise. We took it off after because I wasn't sure if they're supposed to do that... I really want to fix these problems and have nowhere to turn to! I'm just a beginner any help!?

For all of us with Lancer paint chips on our new cars, listen up. A fellow Lancer owner named Yvette has contacted an attorney in Chicago. The attorney advised her that a class action lawsuit can be accomplished if we can get at least 100 people together with this paint issue. The firm will take on all of the financial aspects of the case. The only thing we provide is proof of our paint damage. Yvette advised me she asked a vehicle painter about our problem. He advised her that our paint has a low concentration of anti chip chemical mixed into the paint. Please contact Yvette at 815-354-8500. If you have any questions you can email me at j_fifer_919@yahoo.com. WE CAN GET OUR CARS FIXED PEOPLE!

How do you remove the headlight assembly off of the 08 lancer? I'm trying to install just basic xenon bulbs for my high beams (non hid). Or do I even need to remove the whole assembly? I can't find the high beam headlight from the back. Plz help

Hey watsup i was wondering if anyone knew where a cheap place to order carbon fiber vinyl so i can do my roof of my lancer gts?.........how much length needed and how much do you think it would be for materials, ive seen them for like 25 a foot and half or something...


Ive also seen people advertise on c.list for 90 dollars installed vinly layout on roof. Tell me what you think thanks

I finally got my objects in mirror decal on and my red and white leds in the rear tails.
Not the greatest pics, it's hard to get pics of the lights, but you can see they are pure red and pure white now, not orangish like stock.

[attachment=12540:objects_decal1.jpg]

[attachment=12541:rear_leds1.jpg]

[attachment=12542:rear_leds2.jpg]

Ok so Im buying my lights from www.ddmtuning.com.

Here is the link to the exact part (bulbs) : http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=produ...2&parent=85

I dont need the slim ballasts right??

Im going with a 35W 5000k 9006 for my low beams (Dont wanna blind too many ppl)

For the fog lights, I know I want a 3000k H11 but am unsure if I need a 35W or a 55W. Idealy I want the 55W for brighter output but will this melt my reflectors due to the increased wattage? Im not sure what the heat dissipation is like compared to halo bulbs.

Anybody use 55W from DDM in their fogs?

Also I believe I need a set of these for each set of lights : http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=produ...3&parent=94

Am I missing anything? I read some stuff about a DRL bypass, but is that harness for that? I want to make sure I have EVERYTHING covered before I place my order.

Thanks for your thoughts and input!

Hello. So i have been thinking about using plasti-dip on my front grill to create that evo look. So i purchased two cans at home depot and decided to get started. Before i decided to go all out and just start spraying i wanted to ask a few questions before hand.

1) I saw a youtube video and the guy completely took off his grill. Is this required to successfully spray the grill?

2) How many coats are needed to have that flush black look and how long in b/w coats can i spray again?

3) Lastly, how does the paint hold up during various kinds of weather? I live in NYC and we just finished having a huge rainstorm and a massive snowstorm weeks prior.

I know it may seem like an annoyance answering these questions but feedback will be appreciated. I will show pics once i am done. Thx

The are awsome, I got mine for $115 after shipping, if you are good with wiring then you shouldnt have a problem istalling them.

Any know if possible, if a evo x rear bumper assembly will directly fit on a 2009 gts body? Was concerned if the evo wide body is required for a proper fit?
Thanks.

Hey guys I hit a deer with my 09 Lancer GTS it sucks!! On the up side insurance is kicking in and they are going to cover everything. As for my question my auto body guy suggested putting a CF or fiberglass hood on. I was wondering if you guys know of a place to find a sweet looking hood for my ride!

Ok guys, Here is a pic of a concept of what I want to do to my GTS. I took the pic this afternoon and here it is 5 min later in photoshop.

I know it will probably look bland (colorwise) on your monitors since I used a calibrated one to do it on.
[attachment=12321:_MG_0155up.jpg]

The color is like a super metallic lime green, the fleck in it is like a slight orange.

Im probaby gonna paint the chrome green too.

**Note: By having looked at this image you have forefitted all rights to mimic or copy the concept in any way, shape, or form. Any reproduction can and will be punishable by a swift kick to the butt. LOL!

Anyways, what do you guys think?? (I know it looks a lil rough)

ive found a site which is AWESOME!! i wish i didnt get mine that early.. anyways.. im still thinking of what else can i do with this SWEET find!!




http://flyeyeskit.co.uk/index.php?p=video

Hey guys,

Just curious, will a 2008-2009 Evo X hood fit a 2010 Lancer GTS fine?

That site CVR Motorsports has a bunch of them and they are HALF off with their provided code!

Looking at:

http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/index....product_id=3209

http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/index....product_id=3075

http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/index....product_id=3076

http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/index....;product_id=575


Thanks all!

Like the name? haha. Alright so incase your wondering what that is. Ill post up the thread that contains the DIY Project i did a few months back. ( http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=49052 )
Now, at the moment im going to make a couple, send those out and see what you guys think. Get some reviews! but untill then, i can take a que for who wants one. And by que, i mean im going to send out a couple, get reviews, and if all is good, then ill take orders and start making some. So that could be within the next 2-3 weeks. And the que will give me an idea of who and how many people want one!

Price: 200$ Per Splitter - Includes Lexan splitter, predrilled, matt black vinyl top, my recomended installation hardware, my recomended installation instructions, with no liability disclaimer.
Shipping: Roughly 10-30$ Depending where you live in Canada(or states if you prefer)

If you would like one and want to be added to the que, please E-MAIL me at : Ruttangraphics@rogers.com Im currently only accepting PayPal.

Dont mind, the splitter has some dirty water spots on it lol.
[attachment=12171:100_1219.JPG]

So I finally got all my HIDs from DDM and my harness from JRrox but now am curious as to the best location for the 2 ballasts for the fogs.'

Here's what Im seeing.

[attachment=12435:IMG_0260.jpg]

The top left and right circles would be the location of my lows and the lower circles are like a tentative spot for the fog ballasts.

Any suggestions on where a better location is? Somewhere with a lot of surface contact perhaps? I was planning on using 3M auto tape to keep 'em down. Any better ideas for fastening? (tapes, zip ties, dental floss? LOL)

I hope to have them in by saturday morning.

As always, thanks a million guys for your input and help!

Hi all,

So Im going to get a GTS within a week.....and Im totally unsettled on what color to get. It's so frustrating trying to decide. I've seen them all in person and that dosent help.

Im looking at white, red, blue, and orange.

May I ask you guys who have these colors who HAVE done the "spirit of evolution mod" post a pic or so of your car to aid in my descision. This is the main thing I want to do my GTS but wanna see the results on diff bodies. I looked online and all pics are either small or bad quality. I've looked thru a couple on here and am still torn. Haha!

Thanks as always guys! Your a HUGE part of this process!

So I know that this is a very love/hate subject but here it goes anyway:

Few months ago I installed a multi-color LED kit under my car.
I've been reading the forum a lot since I joined and figured I could contribute something useful too.

This is to ask all of you guys if anyone would be interested in a How To for underglow, all the wiring and installation etc? I looked around the forum and didn't find one.
If I get interest, I'll take pics and make a good (I hope) set of instructions.

Let me know what you think.

So I've recently noticed that there is some condensation in my tail lights on both sides... That is not supposed to happen. lol
I was wondering what you guys think... would that be reason enough to ask the stealership to replace them? would they (relatively painlessly)?
If they do maybe I can get them to replace them with the black ones the come stock on 2010 models!!!?
What do you think?

Can I use it in cold weather or do I have to wait until it warms up??

So wheres the cheapest place to buy the Navigation? lol
They said i needed the navi unit antenna and couple wire harness'
Ebay has some but im not sure if they have everything.
Mitsubishi quoted me about 3 grand lol...

So guys I want to remove the front and rear Mitsu logos and swap them out with some carbon fiber ones but wanna make sure I dont order wrong or screw up. Ha!

Heres what I'm looking at.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LANCER-EVOL...=item33510f6a8b

Looking at the size it appears it may be smaller than the stock one on our Lancers, I measured differently today...

I know this would work on the back, but how about the front? Im not sure how the front one is put on.

Any input would greatly be appreciated. Thanks all!

So we heard of them puttin one one, even seen a ugly bolt-on Gul wing on ebay, now its my turn:

My 2008 gts is at the shop. i've already seen the hinges installed they are workin on the actuator to lift the doors.

PROS: And that would be King of Ricers to you all and yes it looks throwed: it opens striaght up dosn't look out of place and i just new it would because of the lancer's sleek almost a natural sting-ray look.
CONS: + Dude the price. TOO much i thought id be saving money getting the parts seperatly. i maybe saved 1 k but ur still looking at a good 3k total.
+ WAS NOT DESIGNED FOR 08 + models. This kit was GT factories universal kit which surprisingly was not designed to fit this car. the fender space is much smaller then standard sizes. WITH ALOT OF COUSTOM work they made it fit PERFECTLY. but this came at a price: alot of labor and shop cost and they have to cut inside the door panel and alter the plastic (apaushltry shop visit). I want the peanut butter lexus interior look.

MORAL OF STORY: Don't do it. Hopefully i'll throw windsheild decal on it to promote my new Single on iTunes " My Hood - Idreese" and maybe it make some return.

On another note i got the MMCS from thats mitsu parts shop, anyway i have no idea if it comes with the face plate for the dash and i was wonderin would i have to go to dealership to get installed or can any shop do it?

Posting Pics ASAP!

I can find pedals online, but I don't know if they'll fit the Lancer. Does anyone have a website where I can load up on some decent pedals for my Lancer? Preferably I'd like to get a footrest as well.

Thanks!

Hello,
I just installed my HIDs and my passenger side did not work. I double checked to make sure everything is connected, but I can't seem to find the problem. =/ I've made sure not to touch the bulbs with my bare hands. To be safe, I wiped the bulbs down with alcohol pads before installing.
I've included pictures too, that way maybe someone could help identify the problem. I'm using ddmtuning's HID kit.

Passenger Side:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...ger-Ballast.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...r-Ballast_2.jpg (Mis-titled on photobucket)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...ger-Ground_.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...llasttoBulb.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...engerFemale.jpg

Driver Side:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...iverBallast.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...oBulbDriver.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...tedtoanythi.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...dedPositive.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/hug...uldntbebent.jpg


Thank you for the help,
lilhugo

P.s. I'm also using jRox's bypass kit.

Has anybody taken the front passenger (right) fender off? if so, is there anything that isnt obvious such as bolts behind the front end?
Sorry if theres a post like this i didnt have time to do a large search
Thanks for your time, Dave

Damn I must be really bored at work. I keep looking at stuff for our cars. I came across this company that creates body kits for our cars. This duraflex stuff looks pretty good. Go to this link and watch the cheesy video they put together. Horrible video but does show case their product pretty well. The front bumper looks good and is pretty durable. For those who need to replace their front, this is a good alternative to OEM.

http://www.duraflexbodykits.com/0810-mitsu...per-p-2236.html

Here is a picture of it..
[attachment=12379:08_lance...ptfront3.jpg]

The only bad news is that it comes in primer black color so you have to custom color it yourself or hire someone else to do it. Check it out guys.

I was scrolling through the EBAY list of things available for our cars and stumbled across this nice item. I thought I would share it with everyone. What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/08-09-2008-...#ht_4164wt_1160

Here is a picture..
[attachment=12378:75_35368.gif]

Buy it now price is $299 w/ free shipping and handling.


I'm not going to be able to buy anything for my car because I'm saving up for my wedding in August. I could buy it but I rather save for the wedding... Tell me what you guys think.

Im having a damn hard time to figure out if i want to spend 2g's on rims, or do a nice 300$ projector retrofit.

Whats it like to have 18s with a nice set of rubber. I mean performance wise, i can obveusly get the looks. But Projectors would be alot more practical.

So today I took my car back to the dealer so they could remove the pinstripe and put my alloy fuel door on and they threw in a full detailing and buffing and you know, the whole nine. Anyways, when the wheeled her out she was glowing, looked brand new! When I got home ofcourse the ever so kind salt trucks showed their trademark all over the sides of my car but oh well....it's to be expected here.

After I took a walk around the front I noticed that the fog lights (both) have a haze in them. After a closer inspection it looks like condensation in them....Is this normal? I kind of thought they would be sealed...Maybe it was just from the cold outside temp and the hot water they used to wash the car...idk.

What you guys think? You ever have this?

Ps. I de-badged my trunk today!

I finally got my VG.

First, for anybody wondering if this guy can really match paint, he can. The rotor glow matched perfect. I almost felt bad plasti-dipping it, but I want to go with black for a while.

Anyway, I'm gonna post pics now, I will try to write up an install later.


just out of the box:
[attachment=12301:P2160117.JPG]
[attachment=12302:P2160118.JPG]

rotor-glow on the car:
[attachment=12303:P2160119.JPG]
[attachment=12304:P2160120.JPG]
[attachment=12305:P2160121.JPG]

plasti-dip:
[attachment=12306:P2160122.JPG]

black on car:
[attachment=12307:P2160126.JPG]
[attachment=12308:P2160127.JPG]
[attachment=12309:P2160128.JPG]
[attachment=12310:P2160129.JPG]
[attachment=12311:P2160130.JPG]

i am wondering if it is possible to convert the standard Tail Lights into Ralliart black taillights without having to spend $XXX amount of money on them.. i took the lights out and have the housing here but want to know - is there a good neat way to remove this lense that is attached to the housing?

this would be a wicked MOD for those not willing to spend 400$ on a set of taillights that are black instead of red..

can anyone help me out? or am i on my own? )

So i bought and installed a Evo X plate bracket. There is a gap on the bottom right side where the plate holder is shaped different for the Evo. Im ok with this gap but was wondering if all the side plate mounts were like this for are cars? Here is a pic to show you what i mean.

[attachment=12346:Photo0012.jpg]

It looks really low in that pic because i didnt follow the bumper up. I wanted it to be straight instead of at a angle. Here it is from the front. Let me know what you guys think?

[attachment=12347:Photo0016_001.jpg]

Well, about a week ago i put my order in for a set of Angel Eyes. They cost $65 w/ Shipping. Here are a few pics of them and a daytime pic (will try for a night-time pic, but its so damn cold outside i dont feel like doin it):

This is them inside my headlight when i took it off my car and finished putting them on:


On my car in the daytime:



If you have any questions about them, then feel free to ask. It took about 2.5 hours per headlight, but well worth the time.

So I bought some tint film and followed the instructions trying to tint my tail lights. I'd just use nightshade, but it's hella expensive to ship and I can't find it local.

Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone out there has tried this, or anyone with experience installing tint on funky shaped surfaces could help me out with some tips.

Needless to say, it didn't come out well.

Figured id throw a couple pics up of the car, was bored so yeah lol. If any1 else photo chopped your pics toss em up!
[attachment=11826:Carwheel.jpg]
[attachment=11827:Front.jpg]
[attachment=11828:Sidefrontwalls.jpg]

Ok, so took the "Mitsubishi" emblem off the trunk. There was A LOT of glue behind it so I heard GOO-BE-GONE works. It did after an hour of scrubbing it but now I have scratches all over the place & I noticed you can still see a faded "Mitsubishi". Anyone know of anything that'll take the scratches out or at least remove the faded part? *sigh*

I decided to start a threat just because i didnt want to highjack the other thread....
Has anyone taken it in to get looked at?
Because sometimes driving on the highway i will hear the creak so i would turn up my music.
But i would still hear it here and there.... Its annoying...
*Creaking caused by the front wind sheild*

Hi all,
I'm currently owning a black '08 Lancer Instyle.
I really love the jet grille/intake looks, but it doesn't show so obvious on a black car.
When I was doing some googling, I found the following pictures:

Please take a look at this one, it's not my car, but my front is exactly the same, there's only alluminium at the part above the license plate :
http://dealerrevs.com/pictures/396491.jpg

Then take a look at this one:
http://www.lincah.com/wp-content/uploads/2...ure-588x441.jpg
It has the alluminium going all the way down, drawing out the big jet intake.

Another option is this one:
http://www.themotorreport.com.au/wp-conten...spire-tmr-3.jpg
Silver colored grille in 2 pieces
Also looks nice, all tho I prefer the looks on the white car.

Does anyone know if Mitsubishi sells these seperate? I asked the dealer but they guessed not, but if I could bring them a part nr they could order everything.

Any help or info is much appriciated!

I plan on painting all the silver interior trim to match the exterior color. I would like if someone could provide "how to removing all trim". is have searched but i have not been able to find anything about the steering wheel trim or the speedometer trim. all input would be highly helpful. So if anyone knows how to remove all the trim a write up would be benefecial to me and to others in the future.

Check these out,

http://www.k2motor.com/2008-2010-mitsubish...lights-red.html

They are 2008-2010 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Ccfl Halo Projector Headlights. They are mighty expensive, but damn do they look great! Does anyone know anything about these, and of course could they fit on a normal Lancer? I am unsure if it comes with the bulbs and everything or if its just the light housings, or do you have to crack open your projectors and modify them? Also, it has an install video on how to remove the headlights is anyone is trying to remove theirs.

I'm not sure if there is a "HOW TO" on here about the rear bumper diffuser. Is it difficult to install?? (since I will be doing everything myself and I've never installed one...) Any sort of information would be helpful & greatly appreciated...