**UPDATED: Please note that Option 2 is obsolete and superseded by Option 3**

This How-To is for those who would like to install an HID kit in a 2008 Lancer that comes equipped with factory Daytime Running Lights (DRL's).

The advantages of these solutions are:

1) They do NOT require splicing into the factory wiring at all, thus saving any warranty headaches
2) They eliminate the HID Flicker associated with the DRL's

Some background info:

The factory DRL's come on whenever the car is on, the parking brake is down and the headlight switch is in the off position (Position 1) or the middle position (Position 2).

The DRL signal is NOT a constant DC (6V, 9V, etc.) but rather a square waveform peaking at 12VDC and a frequency of about 60Hz (this is better for the bulb longevity than running them at 6V).

It will be assumed that your HID kit has a remote turn-on lead and a relay (30 or 40A).

____________________________________________________________________

Option 1: HID's are ON with switch in Position 1, 2 or 3 (no flicker)

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)



5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out



8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!

**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:




____________________________________________________________________

Option 2 (**SUPERSEDED BY OPTION 3 BELOW): HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

Before starting this option, note that it varies depending on your relay and you may need to use series resistors, etc. to compensate...Option #1 above is recommended.

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay, and extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and **100 or 200uF ONLY**
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Also buy an inductor/choke with a value of 2 Henries or higher - here are some sample inductors:



7) Strip back some insulation from the extra 9006 cable and solder the capacitor in parallel with the two wires




8) Cut one of the cable leads and solder the inductor in Series with it




9) Wrap all the connections with electrical tape
10) Test it out!
____________________________________________________________________

Option 3: HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

This variation has the same overall effect as Option 2 above, but is much more stable, works with all relay types and there is no guesswork about resistor/inductor values...

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay AND extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit
3) With the HID's on, use a voltmeter to determine which wire on the remote turn on lead is ground and which is power (in my case Blue was Power and Black was Ground)
4) Buy the following components from an electronics parts store: IRF510 MOSFET, 50kohm resistor, 28kohm resistor, 2.2uF (anywhere from 2uF to 10uF should work) 25V (or higher) Electrolytic Capacitor
5) The MOSFET has 3 Terminals (in order) - Gate, Drain and Source:



6) The capacitor has two terminals and a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative



7) Resistors have 2 terminals (they are interchangeable)



8) Your 9006 cable has two ends, the female side plugs into the car 9006 harness and the male side plugs into the HID remote turn on lead - you can cut this cable in half so you have a female end with two wires and a male end with two wires - CONFIRM your polarity in Step 3 before continuing



9) Solder time! Be very careful to include ALL of the connections below:

- POSITIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Gate of MOSFET
- NEGATIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Source of MOSFET
- Drain of MOSFET TO Male 9006 Ground Wire
- Female 9006 POWER wire TO one end of 50kohm resistor AND TO Male 9006 Power wire
- Female 9006 Ground wire TO one end of 28kohm resistor AND TO Source of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)
- JOIN the remaining two free ends of the resistors together and solder TO Gate of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)

9) Isolate, insulate and wrap all the connections with electrical tape or shrink tubing
10) Test it out!

Can someone provide me with detailed instructions on how to remove the headlamp housing?

Also, how to adjust the beam pattern?

thx

Hey. I've been away from the forums for a while so I apologize if I'm repeating something that has already been talked about.
I looked a little if there was a topic on this but didn't find one.

I had some crappy 20 dollar bulbs in for my foglamps just to have a bit of a bluish effect to them. One of my reflectors melted almost completely with those bulbs. So I thought ok it's a bad bulb.
I went to Black Gold Import Parts (http://www.blackgoldimportautoparts.com/ - for you Edmontonians ) and got a cheap replacement for the part.

I got the part off some totaled Lancer. I noticed that he had an after market bulb in there as well (looked like a PIAA) and his reflector was slightly melted as well.

Anyways I replaced my parts and put in Yellow PIAA 9006's. They're melting my REFLECTORS!!
I avoid using them and only turn them on when most necessary for short periods of time because I don't want my reflectors to completely melt again.

Has anyone else run into this problem?
Does anyone have a potential solution for this?
The bulb is rated at the correct wattage, but is it still running to hot?
Would a resistor placed in the circuit help?

I though about painting the reflectors with clear heat resistant paint but I tried that on a piece of the melted reflector and the paint takes away from the reflectiveness and is really hard to paint it so it looks smooth.

Looking forwards to some feedback.

This is directly copied from http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=288120 posted by Jake26. All credit goes to him. Don't know him, but I hope he won't get mad at me

Front of car:
Front turn signal light: 21watts bulb: WY21W
Head light, high beam: 60watts bulb: 9005 HB3
Head light, low beam: (halogen bulb) 51watts bulb: 9006 HB4
front foglight: 55watts bulb: H11
Front side marker and parking light: 5watts bulb: 168/194
Side turn signal light: 5watts bulb: 168/194


REAR of car:
High mounted stop light: Led
License plate: 5watts bulb: 168/194
back up light: 21watts bulb: 7440
tail light: 5watts bulb: W5W
tail and stop light: 21/5watts bulb 7443
rear turn signal: 21watts bulb: 7440
rear sidemarker: 5watts bulb: W5W


INSIDE CAR
trunk area: 5watts bulb:----- 3022
dome light: 8watts bulb:----- 3022

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
Here are a few resources to help you better understand the English language, and how it works.

How to use punctuation correctly:
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-English-Punctuation-Correctly

How to Spell Commonly Misspelled Words:
http://www.wikihow.com/Spell-Commonly-Misspelled-Words

Grammar guide:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_grammar

And finally...
How to Avoid Acting Like an Idiot on the Internet: (Note:Rule #5)
http://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Acting-Like-a...on-the-Internet


If these helpful links simply aren't enough, there are numerous places on the internet to download a spell check program. That, or you could use Firefox as your internet browser while using our forums. Firefox will underline any word you may spell wrong, allowing you to simply right click your mouse to find the appropriate spelling.
Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

I take no responsibility for anything you do to your vehicle! Read and do this at your own risk!

Well it's cold as hell and I have a bunch of CF Vinyl I wanted to use on my bumper.
While I'm waiting for warmer weather I decided to do my fuel door. Read on!

PS. This was my 3rd time ever applying vinyl to anything, so if I can do it anyone can!

Took roughly an hour to prep and apply.

Stage 1 - Take off the fuel door

Open the fuel door as wide as possible. There are 2 bolts that you need to remove. The fuel cap is attached to the door, you can just pop that off the door (it will pop back in no problem after you're done installing the door again).

[attachmentid=5600]

Stage 2 - The tools

1. The fuel door!
2. Water/soap solution. I used tap water with a couple drops of dish soap.
3. CF Vinyl (got it from eBay, quite cheap for a whole roll of it)
4. Hair dryer with a warm/hot temp setting, low/med/hi speed, and a flat attachment to spread the air better (the attachment really comes in handy later).
5. Some soft yet hard squeegee tool for applying vinyl (getting rid of air bubbles etc. Don't ask me where to get one cause I got in with an order of something else, so just ask around - try vinyl shops etc.

[attachmentid=5598]

Stage 3 - Cut the vinyl

Lay the door on top of the vinyl and cut out an area enough to fully cover the door, also leave some extra for bending around the corners.

[attachmentid=5601]

Then lay the cut vinyl on top of the door and cut off excess square edges (they'll get in your way later, so might as well get rid of them).

[attachmentid=5602]

Stage 4 - Apply the vinyl

Here you must be patient and careful! If this is your first time I suggest you practice if you have vinyl to spare (especially heating and bending corners).
Take your time, take it easy!

Since I really am not an expert I will not go into detail on how to best apply the vinyl. Do some research! Google it! Ask someone who knows what they're doing!

To make the long story short:

Start applying and heating the vinyl properly. Going around the edges is the most tricky part (I messed it up the first time and had to redo it).
You have to feel out how much heat to apply to bend the vinyl around the corners for it not to crack, melt, or bend awkwardly. This is where the hair dryer attachment comes in handy!
Spread any air bubbles with the squeegee.
Boom, done! Install your fuel door and you're good to go.

Back view:
[attachmentid=5603]

Front view:
[attachmentid=5604]

Side view:
[attachmentid=5605]

Texture closeup:
[attachmentid=5606]

A relatively cheap and easy way to have a CF looking fuel door.
Anything goes wrong with it you can just peal it off.
I like it!
I'll take pictures of the car some other day cause it's cold and dark outside.

Have fun.

1st off, I am not going to go HID.

I just want to know from those of you that have the Ultra's......what do you think of them & have you had ANY problems with them lasting a long time or any melting issues?


I'm just jonzin for some brighter lights without going HID.


I see them listed for $50 a set, but I found them on E-Bay....highs & lows for $40 plus $7 to ship......

what's ya thought on this?


I would also need to upgrade my Foggies....but I don't think that they have H11's in the Ultra's....at least I couldn't find them......so what's another idea to go with?

How can I run wires through my firewall? I'm installing aftermarket fog lights in my ES and I have to run the wire for my switch.

I heard about this from another forum, and then I called Rally Armor earlier this afternoon.

I been confirmed that by the end of this week, mud flaps for 08+ Lancer will be available. They already got some in-stock, but they're still waiting for some shipment; therefore be patience until they update their website.

The representative on the phone also confirmed that the first shipment of mud flaps will be only available in Urethane form. Basic mud flaps will then be available later this Fall around September.

Picture stolen from another forum

[COLOR=blue]I will now start accepting orders for key hole & bumper plugs! I just became a sponsor of the website and am glad to be one!

Prices are!

Key hole plugs (1 for $9.99 or 2 for $14.99)
Bumper Plugs (13.99 a set)

Or get both in a combo set for (1 plug + 2 bumper plugs $19.99 / 2 of each $24.95)

I will accept all orders for all colors of the Lancer / Evo 10th generation but since there are quite a few different colors for the new Lancer I'll only be doing 2 colors at a time. I will be painting and have ready to ship next week the following two colors.

Tarmak Black Pearl

and

Rally Red

The rest of the colors will go shortly after that with in the next two weeks. So for example sao if you order tarmak black you'll have your order sent out by next week.

If you order Aqua Met and theres only 2 orders for that it might be 2 - 3 weeks before you get your order. I suggest everybody place their orders because I need at least 1 order for each color otherwise I wont be mixing that color.

All orders can be placed at www.i-kona.com! PM me with any questions or comments. I dont have a picture of the finished product but here is a picture of what it looks like raw. (no prime or paint)

Stay tuned for updates on when I will start other colors. I plan on doing a new color every 2 days until I have stock built of all colors. But like I said if there are no orders for a certain color then I wont be making stock of that until I get an order.



P.S I'm not trying to spam with 2 similar threads but I wasnt able to change the title of the other thread.

1. ProjectLancer - Graphite Gray
2. Prodigal - Apex Silver
3. Rob - Rally Red
4. NY-09GTS - Tarmac Black Pearl
5. Psycho2003 (Kyle)- Aqua Metallic
6. Rox - Wickid White
7. Mwoods77 - Octane Blue Pearl
8. Nixzel - Octane Blue Pearl
9. Fullmetalpanic - Tarmac Black Pearl
10. FreakingWilly - Electric Blue Pearl
11. Lancerpower4b11 -Tarmac Black Pearl
12. chetman7 - Tarmac Black Pearl
13. sinister - 08 ES Graphite Gray
14. Lonnieg3-08 Rally Red
15. awg0020 - Tarmac Black
16. drake12483 - Electric Blue
17. Greyso- Electric Blue Pearl
18. Bootx2 - Tarmac Black
19. Editornoliver - Apex Silver
20. WebzES - Rally Red

I've been meaning to ask this question ever since I started researching about HIDs when I got my lancer.
Why do you guys promote mobilehid.com for HIDs?
$225 for HIDs shipped?!?!

Personally I think that's a lot. I know they promote water proof and shock proof ballast, but I think it's just a small extras.
I mean I never heard of anyone having a bad ballast because they were hit with a force equal to a hammer.

I bought my HIDs for less than $100. I helped my friend find a store that sold 55 watt slim ballasts for $91 after taxes!

So I don't know...it's just been buggin' me that you guys are spending a lot for HIDs.

Here's a site that sells those slim ballasts its a little more that $91.
http://www.therpmstore.com/index.php?cPath=26_203_32

Yep in about a month im pretty much replacing a lot of stuff inside my 08 lancer GTS everything on the outside must go because it is being replaced since this is now my project car almost all the exterior basic parts are going to be gone. if you are interested in any parts send me a msg or post and also note these parts will not be available until the second or third week of december that is when i plan to take all the parts off of the car if all of my replacement parts come in as expected, i am just getting the bunch who are interested as of now. the parts list and prices are as followed.

also note these parts are for a Black 2008 lancer GTS with 4500 miles, will post pics below



OEM Front bumper (with flat black paint and chrome trim,without fogs) - 200
or
OEM Front bumper (with Fog Lights Also) 250 - 1st reserve constant..
OEM Rear bumper - 200 - 1st reserve MonsterGTS
OEM Side Skirts - 200 - 1st reserve moacsupreme
OEM GTS Wing - 150
OEM GTS Hood - 150

PM Me if you are interested in the entire kit i will offer some type off discount.

other parts that are available not a part of the above kit

OEM GTS Steering Wheel - 200 - KBanks
OEM GTS Bucket Seats - 350
OEM GTS Front Fenders - 100
OEM GTS Front Airdam Extention - no price was put because it may have to go with the front bumper but right now its reserved for lancer022
OEM GTS Gas Cover cap - 60


OEM GTS Wheels - 125 per wheel 1st reserve datboriquapapi69 (all 4 wheels) 2nd reserve Chippy360 (2 Wheels) cwdb (1 wheel)
























*****update****

please note that i will try to update the list daily. if you contact me letting me know to reserve a part i will, however that does not mean that the part is sold. the way it will work is the first person who contacts me i will put them first for that item. if someone else is interested too i will put them 2nd so if the first person doesn't come through the part will automatically go to the next person in line. i will not accept any paypal payments untill the item is off the car. i am working with accolade and they arent very trustworthy when it comes to shipping dates so i dont want to take payments and have you waiting another month for your parts. any other questions let me know

If anyone is looking for LEDs for their car, check this guy out.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=352772

I personally haven't ordered from this guy, but he looks legit. Want the load resistors for the turn signals!

First off, I've searched on this topic and didnt find a straight forward answer. I have a 2009 Lancer ES and it didn't come with fog lights. Does the ES have the plugs their for plug n play? Also, where in the firewall can I run the wires through for my switch? Any info is helpful.

i've been looking for it long and suffering from hard pain to wait for this piece. does anyone know about the angel eyes for lancer 08?! thx!

heys guys i have been looking all over the net looking for some custom projector shops. i need to find one so they can put dual halos in my depo projectors. if anybody knows where i can get this down i would appreciate it.

any vendors or website that would happen to make an automatic shift boot?

I've been hearing about this stuff called Zaino (www.zainostore.com) and how amazing it is. Has anyone tried this before and what do you think??
I'm looking for an amazing wax that holds up with the winter approaching. I've been using Meguiars NXT 2.0 and I feel like its mediocre.

Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks

how much is the exo x wing and where can i buy one

I'm making changes to my car's body kit and while ordering these parts my autobody shop and I had some miscommunication problems and now I'm stuck with an extra hood and a front bumper(my brother's fault actually).

The hood is this one:
http://www.carbonbydesign.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EVOXHOOD

The front bumper is this one:
http://autocityimports.com/images/08Lancer...S-Body-Kit4.jpg

They're pretty nice looking parts, like I said, these are now extra, as I'm currently having these same parts installed on my Lancer. The hood was $599, but I'll let it go for $550(fiberglass) and the bumper was $250, so I'll just ask for $200. About the shipping it depends where you want it shipped, we;ll have to find out about the shipping fees. I'm around the Connecticut/Rhode Island area if anyone is interested in a local pick up and make it cheaper. I'm also putting them on ebay, but if anyone is interesed here, just let me know!

Ok so I just got the front OEM airdams for my 2009 lancer shipped to me and I'm ready to put them on. It looks like it should be pretty easy. I noticed when I pulled the airdams out of the box that there are several holes which are presumably where the bolts that connect them to the vehicle go. I have a couple of questions though.

Do the airdams use bolts that are already on the car or am I going to have to drill holes and buy bolts seperately? I'm also assuming that this is going to need some sort of double sided tape to help keep it in place. Does anyone know where I could get this stuff? I figured a place like home depot but wasn't sure.

First off, I'm sorry if this has been asked but does anyone know how to remove the silver rings around the gauges?

I will run you off the road, literally.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubishi-...emZ280281306782

I'm hoping for a little guidance from you guys. I really want to protect my hood and fender, and 3M StoneGuard seems to be the standing recommendation to new Lancer owners on these forums. However, I'm kind of at a loss as to how to go about it. It doesn't seem like something I ought to do myself; it takes me like three tries to get a new screen cover onto my iPod correctly. XD Yet, when I search google for the phrase, I mostly get piles upon piles of car forums rather than actual people offering services. Where did you guys go to get your cars protected, and how much did it run you?

I'm in Maryland, by the way, so if anyone happens to know any good companies, the hint would be appreciated.

Just wanted to get everyones opinion on this?

I think it looks pretty good. You?