Here's my 2008 ES. I just put this TI-c on about 2 weeks ago.
I couldn't take pics of the whole instal cause i didn't have my camera but its a simple job. The three hangars that are on the stock exhaust are utilized on the new exhaust only reconfigued when you do this remember (the shims can be moved around). If you have any questions give me a shout.

Before you get to posting read this: (if you haven't already)
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t31254-lt...t-33-gtgtgt.htm

Remember this forum is divided into sections

This topic is intended only for quick reference/listings of modifications. Please do not discuss here, instead discuss under appropriate forum sections.

Also some acronyms you might want to get familiar with:

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t43579-ac...t-they-mean.htm

This is from the 1G/2G Eclipse section, but there are some pretty good explanations of a lot of common acronyms.
Take some time to read through it, or use as reference if you're not sure what something means - if you can't find it, then ask

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, since this keeps coming up and spring/summer is coming a lot more Lancer owners will be probably joining up and trying to do stuff to their cars...
Lets have a starting point here:

What I did to my 08' GTS manual transmission (in order):

1. RRM V2 Light Crank Pulley
2. Magnaflow Catback Exhaust
3. TWM Short Shifter
4. AEM Cold Air Intake

What I did to my 09' GTS manual transmission so far:

1. Magnaflow Catback Exhaust

What I am still planning to do to my 09' GTS:

1. SRI (not sure what brand, probably RRM)
2. TWM Short Shifter
3. Header (4-2-1)
4. Light Flywheel and Clutch package (not sure what kind of clutch yet)
5. Timing box
6. LSD
7. Dyno Tune

Most of these things I can do/have done by myself, so I didn't pay for labor.
The things I probably will get done at a shop are:

Flywheel/Clutch, LSD
Dyno Tune for sure

Ok, so this is what I am doing. By no means this is the way you have to do it, nor is it necessarily the "right" way.
Do what you do at your own risk and discretion.

If you need to find out:

Where to get certain parts
Which brands to go with
Why some are better than other
Turbo's and other things
ETC ETC.

Look through the forum, there is plenty of info here.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, can anyone with any input, suggestions, or plans, add more to this thread.
List what you have done to your car (with brand names if possible).
List what you are planning on doing.
Tell us in which order and/or how you would do it.

Got a dyno done on my car yesterday. Stock baseline runs, 2.4L, manual transmission.

motor hp from mitsubishi: 168
motor torque from mitsubishi: 167
-------------------------------------------------------
(3) 4th gear runs

max wheel hp: 157.82
max wheel torque: 163.52

4th gear MPH at 6300 rpm = 115 mph

air/fuel ratio: 2.4L runs rich

Only a 7% loss of horsepower from engine to wheels (very good)

[attachment=9846:2009_lan...ine_dyno.jpg]

Max Power = Horse Power
Max Torque = Foot Pounds

Dyno's performed on DynoJet Model: 248x - 2-wheel drive.

1. Stock dyno (roughly 2,000KM odo) [chart fixed]:

[attachment=10155:marcinstock.jpg]

Max Power = 132.74
Max Torque = 136.69

2. Mod - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley (roughly 58,000KM odo) [chart fixed]:

[attachment=10156:marcinmagnaflow.jpg]

Max Power = 137.86
Max Torque = 140.79

Gains:
Power = 5.12
Torque = 4.1

2.2 Mod (TEST) - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley, air filter removed from box (roughly 58,000KM odo):

[attachment=9851:marcin_dyno.jpg]

Max Power = 139.28
Max Torque = 141.78

3. Mod - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley, AEM CAI (roughly 68,500KM odo):

[attachment=10153:dynowithAEM_single.jpg]

Max Power = 143.80
Max Torque = 144.21

Gains (over #2):
Power = 5.94
Torque = 3.42
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total gains over stock:

Power = 11.06
Torque = 7.52

Total money spent on parts (approximate):

$1130 Canadian

Extra info:

$102.2 per 1 horse power (approx)
$150.3 per 1 ft/lbs of torque (approx)

Installed all the parts myself so no labor costs.

TuX_69 was asking me how my CAI installation went and asked me to supply some pictures of how everything was done. Injen provides you with all the necessary instructions on how to install the CAI, but nothing on the front bumper. I went the alternate route and did everything through my underpanel, wheelwell, and fog light. Upon writing up the PM to send back to TuX_69, I realized that this information was too good to just give to one person... so I share it with all of you!

Just note that this will show you ONLY how to access the underpanel and wheelwell without breaking anything. As for the rest of the CAI installation, Injen provides you with detailed images and steps for both manual and CVT transmissions. Just work your way around the bumper

Tools required:
+ Phillips screwdriver
+ Flathead screwdriver
+ 10mm socket wrench (optional, but it will be required for the complete CAI install)

Step 1: Removing the underpanel


It's fairly painless. Using a flathead screwdriver, pop out each of the tabs. As you can see, I am missing one. When I installed mine, my clumsy friend left one on the floor and he stepped on it, rendering it useless. So please note... keep them safe! Result...


Easy as pie!


Step 2: Removing the wheelwell


This is where it gets a little tricky. You will need to turn your wheel inwards (to the right) in order to access the first 2 screws. These can be removed using a phillips screwdriver. They are exactly the same as the ones used in the vent for the stock airduct. Once you remove these, you need to access two more pins...



The one in the far back is just like the ones on the underpanel. However, the other one is a real pain. It's not a 2 piece pin like the rest. This is one solid pin. You can still pry it out with a flathead and yank it out with your fingers once you can get a good grip on it. There is one final screw you need to get out. I couldn't get a good picture of it, so instead...


I give you a picture of me removing it!

It's a combination 10mm nut with a cross thread inside. You could use the phillips to get it out, but they are usually pretty tight. I did it with the 10mm socket wrench (plus an extension) because I didn't want to strip the threading. Once you get everything out, you can push the wheelwell away from you (towards the engine) and pull it out. Result...


You can see the filter and curve pipe (as well as my remounted tranny cooler and my HID ballast for my left fog ). You should be able to pull it back far enough to get your hand and forearm in. From here you would pull down on the black tubing while feeding it down from your hood. The curve pipe and filter can be put in from the underpanel. Use a flathead screwdriver with a long neck and wide head when securing these clamps... it makes it several times easier!

You will need to remove the fog light housing to complete the CAI installation because of the location for the vibration mounts for the curve pipe. The fog light is easy to take out, so pictures aren't necessary here.

ENJOY!

How To for people without fancy tools.
Tested and performed on the 2008 Lancer (manual transmission).

First and most of all, look at the instructions that came with you pulley, read them thoroughly and understand what you are doing before you read this How To. You can use this at YOUR OWN RISK. I recommend you get a professional to install the pulley for you – I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for anything that goes wrong with you or your car while you’re installing this part or thereafter.

1. Remove the passenger side wheel.
2. Remove the lower part of the plastic shielding (there are a few clip in fasteners on top of the shielding as well as at the bottom – a small flat screwdriver works well)
[attachmentid=7727]

3. Pop your hood open, locate the Radiator Coolant reservoir. There is only one screw holding it in place, remove that. Now you can twist the reservoir and put it somewhere to the side to gain access to the tensioning pulley from the top (it’s easier that way if you have a shorter tool – no crack a$$ jokes ).
[attachmentid=7728]

4. Get someone to use a wrench (or whatever you got) and pull/push/yank it towards the front of the car as much as possible (it takes a bit of strength).
[attachmentid=7729]

5. Slip under the car while the tension is taken off the timing belt. Slip the timing belt off the crank pulley and let it loose to the side. I suggest you use thick protective gloves while you’re doing this in case the tension pulley snaps back and yer fingurs are in the way.

6. Now that you have the timing belt off you can get your poor friend (who’s arm is probably falling off by now) to let go of the tension pulley. Now it’s time to crank the crank pulley off. First of all you will need to secure the pulley so it doesn’t spin while you’re unscrewing it. If you have a tool to hold it in place, use it. If you don’t (like me) get a crow bar or something that tough, wrap it in a cloth (to avoid doing damage to any of the parts), shove it into any of the crank pulley openings and get your helper to hold the pulley in place while you are sweating you’re a$$ off trying to get the pulley loose. Once you get the bolt out just yank the pulley straight out – it should come out no problem. Look at the picture for directions to twist in.
[attachmentid=7730]

7. So lets say you got the pulley off. Follow the directions on your manual that came with the pulley to know what to clean, what to lubricate etc.

8. Now that you are absolutely confident that you know what you’ve gotten yourself into, install the RRM pulley. Use the same instructions as getting the old one off – obviously in reverse, DUH! Put a lot of power into getting the bolt back on properly. If you don’t have a torque wrench (like me) just eye-fak-it and secure it the best you can. If you have it too loose it might leak, if you got it too tight you might rip the threads and then you’re pooched. Good luck.

9. Now get your friend to relieve the tension again so you can slip the belt back onto the pulley. Once you get it make sure the belt is aligned properly on the other pulleys. One more thing, there is a little notch on the pulley (probably in the front). Just above the pulley to the right (if you’re looking at it straight and the front end of the car is to your right) there is a marker with 1 0 1 on it. Set the notch to be aligned with 0. Done.

10. Put the coolant reservoir back on. Check to make sure the belt is inline with everything and go start your car… now come back… inspect the belt and the crank pulley visually to ensure everything is bolted on and aligned properly. You might notice a slightly different sound coming from the crank shaft (or wherever it’s actually coming from). Don’t worry, it should go away. Put your poor car together and go drive around a bit. Stop and check every now and then to make sure everything is still in place. Every so often check the pulley for leaks and that it's still tight and secure until you get sick of it and accept the fact that you probably installed it correctly.

Have fun and good luck!

[attachmentid=7731]

NOTE: There is a little pin that holds the crank pulley in place, it fits in the groove on the inside of the pulley. Be CAREFUL when removing and especially when installing the new pulley. The pin has potential to pop out, don't let it drop! Mine dropped but got stuck on something and didn't fall into the oil pan so I was able to fish it out. If you lose that thing in there you might have to remove the entire oil pan to get it out - NOT FUN.

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
Here are a few resources to help you better understand the English language, and how it works.

How to use punctuation correctly:
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-English-Punctuation-Correctly

How to Spell Commonly Misspelled Words:
http://www.wikihow.com/Spell-Commonly-Misspelled-Words

Grammar guide:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_grammar

And finally...
How to Avoid Acting Like an Idiot on the Internet: (Note:Rule #5)
http://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Acting-Like-a...on-the-Internet


If these helpful links simply aren't enough, there are numerous places on the internet to download a spell check program. That, or you could use Firefox as your internet browser while using our forums. Firefox will underline any word you may spell wrong, allowing you to simply right click your mouse to find the appropriate spelling.
Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

...

As you can clearly see, the list is empty. Why? Because... there is NO such thing as a 2009 Lancer specific part.

ALL PERFORMANCE PARTS THAT FIT THE 2008 LANCERS WILL FIT THE 2009 LANCERS!!!

Yes, even the 2.4L GTS... they all fit.

Please stop posting new topics asking "What parts will fit the 2009 Lancer? I have the 2.4L and the only parts I can find are for the 2008. I searched, so please don't flame me."

Mods, please sticky and lock. This thread does not need to be discussed any further.

Hey... I was just looking a the Injen website, the add that comes up:

[attachment=12197:garage_fw_r11_c5.gif]

That OBVIOUSLY looks like an SRI... did they put the wrong picture in? Cause they say it's for a GTS but they have a picture of an EVO.. Maybe same mistake?
But that engine bay certainly looks like it's a LANCER!
Can't look up that product number, it doesn't come up with any results on their site.

I know there was a topic floating around here, but that was regarding a 2.4L CAI...
Would they really make an SRI? That would be sweet!

I'll email them, see what they say

So i got and installed my exhaust tue. Install went well. First impression was that it was wicked quiet! It didnt sound any louder than stock. Its starting to sound better now tho once ive put a few miles on it. Im glad i went with this exhaust tho because i didnt want something that was loud and obnoxious. I tried making a before and after sound clip but it came out really bad and distorted, not even worth posting.

TWM Short Throw Shifter Lancer GTS

a) So... when i first ordered the TWM short throw shifter i was super exicted that i was going to recieve it within 3 buisiness days. When i emailed TWM on a sat they replied 3 hours later i think around 11pm central so im really happy with the communication i had with them.

b) Kind of crappy that UPS left it on my door steps thou, thats why i hate UPS leaving $ lying on my door steps considering no one is ever home for days... So i ended up asking my neighbour to get it and keep it at his house for a couple of days, but that has nothing to do with TWM proformance.

c) Installing it was really easy, the only hard part was moving all my LED wiring aside and removing the two push clips that i constantly kept losing (because they blend in with my carpet) But aside from that i was very pleased in their installation guide that they send with the shifter.

d) At first, pulling out of my garage, i thought to myself what did i get myself into.. This wasn't as smooth as i thought it would be and my wrist kept hitting the E-brake. I took it for a spin on the highway passing cars shifting to Fourth gear and back to fifth. After maybe taking it on the highway (10 mins) and driving in the city (20 mins) i fell in love with it, it was alot smoother, i guess the lithium grease just had to do its magic. Also i dont have to question myself if its in gear or not, its near impossible to ever grind a gear. My wrist stopped hitting the E-brake because its just a simple wrist movement with the TWM short throw shifter. It hit before because i was trying to shift it like my old shifter. All in all im very happy with my purchase, and from what i heard from alot of other lancer owners, they are happy too (thats why i bought it) I would recommend it to other lancer owners.

Just started playing around with my new vid cam.

For anyone interested.......Here's a few videos to show the sound of my HKS Hi-Power exhaust and the RRM sri. (2009 Lancer GTS / manual)

HKS Hi-Power Exhaust

HKS Exhaust and RRM sri - 1/4 mile run #1

HKS Exhaust and RRM sri - 1/4 mile run #2

HKS Exhaust and RRM sri - normal driving

So I got my new Magnaflow catback today in the mail and am curious, since I will not be needing my stock exhaust, how much do you guys think I could get for it online?

(The purpose of this thread is not to be a for sale listing)

The pipes have only have 1,100 miles on it. LOL!

since the 4b12 and 4b11 are pretty much the same block couldnt i buy a 2.4 swap out the cranks have custom long rods made and install turbo pistons into the 2.4 and have a 10k rpm turbo evo hater. not to mention slap on a evo head with ra turbo setup and you would be easy into the 300hp mark. please dont mention money if you are going to debate this i only want cold hard facts. also i didnt buy an evo because i payed cash for my car and didnt want to borrow a loan.

So I have a friend who's a mechanic and he says all you have to do convert the 2.0 engine to a 2.4 is change out the heads.

Does anybody know if this is true?

Hello all!

I recieved my Takeda Retain short ram intake this past Friday, and I installed it yesterday.
Below is a link to my blog where I give my inital reaction to it so far.

There's even a video for those who want to see what it's like.

Just a note, at 2000 RPM, and just under 2500, the car sounds only marginally louder, so you can drive around town making people think you are driving stock. This is useful if you don't want to wake the neighbours.
Gas it a little more though, and you have a mean sound.

Enjoy!

http://theaysblog.blogspot.com/2010/03/ins...-my-intake.html

Looking at an axelback exhaust system.

Anybody have or try this one? Whatcha think?

http://www.erzperformance.com/product_p/20-9360-rear.htm

and after my first drive with it in, i've got to say... not bad.. not bad at all.

i went from stock for eight months to RRM for 5 months, and just yesterday i saw the takeda 'on sale' on ebay for 217 + free shipping + 17 microsoft cashback. i couldn't pass it up. AND it was shipped out yesterday and happened to be really close to me so i got it delivered today.
ebay link: (link will probably expire in a few weeks, sale expires in 12 hours from time of posting. then back to regular price of 230)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TAKEDA-AIR-...sQ5fAccessories

first things i noticed were:
big delivery box with big takeda logo stamped all over it. these guys are either a big (which usually means good) company, or they're just starting and trying really hard to get into business. i liked it even without cutting open the packing tape.
everything was packed nicely with air cushions and packing paper. other extras they threw in were a license plate frame and two stickers. small things that just gave me a good vibe about the company.

installation was simple. the heatshield that everyone's excited about secures by taking advantage of two existing screws that hold it in place from the bottom and tightening it from the side with a nut to another existing screw. the air snorkel fits into the hole and there's foam cushioning around the edges where there might be contact with other parts of the car. The heatshield itself is made of some sort of heavy plastic.

performance:
i can only compare to the RRM intake which i had on last, but what i noticed was lower pitched sound throughout the whole rpm range. around 3000 it gives a much louder growl. on the RRM, i had the impression that i just couldn't hear it until around 3000. i hear the takeda all the time. it's not loud, but it's present. also, response to just about everything is much faster.

i'm not quite sure how else to describe it, but if you guys have questions, i'll try to answer as best as i can.




btw, on the ebay link, they posted the wrong picture. they posted a picture of the evo intake... i'm going to send them a message right now letting them know.

I know they're prolly POS but it does say they are a universal kit and all you have to buy is the manifold and downpipe. I was interested because it is only 630 dollars or something brand new. Beats paying 4500 for rrms. Will this fit on our lancers? And how well will it hold up?

I found K&N Typhoon 69-6544TS for our lancers for only $239 at Ken's Auto Wholesale - has anyone bought anything from this website before? its too good to be true, and they dont even list phone # on the website, just email address. What do you guys think?

So I bought a magnaflow exhaust and now the inside of the tip is rusting like crazy.
I am not completely surprised as they salt the roads like crazy during the winter months.
I was just wondering if anyone else is having the same problem and what they did about it?

I posted a pic of my exhaust right after install. Shortly, I will post a comparison pic with the current rust issue I am having.
It's literally growing in there, lol

So my sri finally came, i was installing it last night, and got to step 18, which is bolting on a support for the intake itself. The picture they provide is horrible, and when i called their tech support, the guy i needed to talk to was gone; he should be calling be back today.

Anyway, the support is just a peice of metal with about a 135 degree bend in the last inch of 1 end, if i bolt it on to the intake, and put the intake in place, the only bolt even close to the right location is the bottom rear bolt on the throttle bore, but the angle isn't right and there isn't enough space.

K&N is supposed to be calling me back today at 6 local time, and apparently they may want pictures, so hopefully we can figure it out

Just wondering, since others here have this intake, if i'm crazy, or if there's no bolt on the 2.0 that they show in the picture...like maybe k&n's install guide's pics are for a 2.4 or something...

Searching EBAY and found some Drilled/Slotted Rotors for our cars. It's an alternative to the RRM (only slotted) and looks to be pretty reasonable price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubishi-...s#ht_1542wt_939


[attachment=12430:drilled_...d_rotors.jpg]

Looks like the sale is ending in 10 hours if you want the 15% off.

I'm not looking to buy anything right now. Just posting for those who are.

Has anybody tried out the rrm piggyback ecu? Does it work? Hows the software that comes with it?

FYI,

Saw that Injen posted their new SRI for our 2.4L engines. Looking on EBAY today and saw that its selling for $222 with free shipping/handling.

[attachment=12421:SP1838.jpg]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INJEN-SHORT...#ht_2498wt_1039

Any comments? I haven't bought any performance upgrades for the car yet and was thinking that this could be my first.

So I finally installed my RRM intake. It took me a little while because the bolts didn't wanna come off but I managed. It's VERY loud inside the car especially around 2500 rpms. IDK if I like it actually...

Not fairly familiar when it comes to the brains of the car. What exactly does the flash do, and what exactly is specific about the Works one? It says it gives about 15hp, and you ship out your ECU? Fairly old new I think, but would like to know about it in time for my next upgrade http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpOw9YvcbPE

Im looking at a 2005 Mitu Lancer Evolution MR Turbo for $400 bucks. Will this work on my 2010 Lancer GTS?

Sorry Im not so well with things under the hood yet.

Thanks all!

Hey guys,
I went home from school this weekend. My brother has been driving my 08 5speed ES. I parked on a buddies driveway. It is sloped a little more than the average driveway and I parked without the parking break. I put the car in first gear and noticed that the car would slide back about an inch, stop and then do it again about 10 seconds later. I have 48,000 miles on the car so I'm wondering if I just never noticed this before or if it is a sign my clutch is startin to go?? Any speculation/ideas/advice?

just a quick question for anyone out there, turbo for my lancer es 2009,... good?bad? just any information would be great!

The 09 Lancer Turbo Kit Will Be Out This Week Or Next Week For Sale!!!!


[attachmentid=8043]
[attachmentid=8044]


****SORRY I SPELT TURBO WORNG ON TOPIC****

Im looking into putting a short shifter in my 09gts manual
Auto city short shifter

Anybody change out the oem one?
if so what did you go through?

sorry, if theres another post about this, direct me if there is?

Is INJEN a good brand? Should I go with a short ram or a CAI?? [color="#FF0000"][/color]

for those interested, I was casually browsing ebay and came across an rrm sri. the buy it now is 155 and it ships free. it's missing some minor hardware but it's easily replaceable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Road-Race-S...1QQcmdZViewItem

btw, if you're not familiar with cashback, go on internet explorer (it hasn't worked on firefox for me) and go to bing.com. search anything you would buy (like 'ipod') and one of the first search results will be an ad link that says something about an 8% cashback on ebay. click the link and through the new page, search for the intake and when you buy it, you'll get 8% off... bringing you to a total of $142.60 for an intake. i hope one of you gets the deal...

I am getting a 2010 Lancer GTS in a month or 2, kind of depends on how much money I want to save before hand. Either way I will have 3-4 Grand that I can use on whatever I want for it. So I want to start looking into some after market parts that will give it a little more punch, However, I am completely new to anything mechanical, but I'm smart and I learn fast.

I am looking for advice from the experienced people on here as to where I should start, and how far can I go before I should be worried about messing with the warranty. By the way, before anyone mentions it, I do not want to save up a little extra and buy the Ralliart. I am very much a fan of a Manual Transmission and I don't want to waste my time with an automatic. If it came in M/T I would be all for it.

so here's a site with a 4-2-1 header for lancers.

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=...t&Itemid=62
problem is, it says that it'll fit 4b10/11/12.

There cant be a way that all of the these engines share the same shape exhaust ports, is there?

So ive been looking around at different exhausts for my car and im interested in the RRM exhaust but i cant find a sound clip for it anywheres! I can find some on youtube buts its the 2.4L motor not the 2.0 which i have. Does anyone on here have the RRM on a 2.0 that could post a sound clip for me? Or a link would be great too! Thanks

Well I installed my SRI last night and it was a little scratched up which was the disapointing part. Anyways, I must say that I LOVEEEE the sound! When I hit right above 3k RPM's it just roars like you have an exhaust almost. Sounds amazing.

That is how its suppose to sound right? Lol

Now about the header... I received my header in the mail but it did not come with the gasket that goes around all 4 holes... Does RRM not supply a gasket with their 450 dollar header?

So on their website RRM claims "proven increase of 8+hp and 8+lb of torque".
There is also a link to a dyno sheet. So you would say that it looks pretty legit.
The only problem is that you find all this on the "Road Race 2009/2010 Lancer Header 4B12" page.
On the dyno sheet is says 2008 CVT lancer. We all know very well that all 2008 lancers were all 2.0L 4B11.

So I decided to write them an e-mail. Here is what I wrote:
> I am interested in buying your header for 09 lancer 4B12.
> I'm just a little confused because the dyno sheet attached is on a 08
> lancer, which were all 2.0L 4B11 and not 2.4L 4B12. Could you please
> explain?

And this is what Rob @ RRM wrote back:
>The dyno is from our 2.0. 2.4 never got dynoed by itself. 2.4 felt
>like better gains. Expect at least the same gains as 2.0. It will be
>more though. Thanks

HAHAHA> "felt like" better gains. I love it.

Does anyone have a dyno of the 4B12 with the rrm header or and direct experience?

Imo, its plausible that the 2.4L would have more gains. I just read in another post that 4B11 and 4B12 have same header, thus a larger engine should benefit more from the same increase? no?

Hey All,

Searching on other forums I heard a new SRI coming soon for our lancers 2008+
Does not look too shabby.. right now they are doing R&D on 2008+ 2.0L, i am sure 2.4L soon after. price is to be announced. (i guess approx $300.00)

Input?
http://www.takedausa.com/application/applications.php

So I saw the other thread about the HPS SRIs for our cars and I decided that I liked the idea of a powder coated intake tube. So I got one and slapped it on. Installation was cake, even though I didn't have all the proper tools. (I do now though). Really it was just a matter of taking off the old air-box and slapping the new intake on. There is a bracket installation, but it's just a simple removal and reinstall of a single bolt.

It seems to be working great. It gave the engine back that nice deep sound that I loved so much when my air-box wasn't sealed properly and I have noticed an increase in power, especially from starts. I haven't had any trouble at all with check engine lights or anything, not even intermittently. All in all I'd say I'm glad I got it.

The only thing that I'm not really too crazy about is the heat shield. I'm not sure I really like a giant chrome piece in my engine bay. I was kinda hoping to stay away from too much chrome in there. Who knows, I may plasti dip it. Also, the heat shield installs into three brackets that attach to a hose clamp. My kit was not sent with a larger hose clamp and the one that comes with the K&N filter was too small to put the brackets through. Customer service was really friendly and said they'd send out another larger hose clamp for the shield, but I decided not to wait and picked one up.

I was also thinking about putting the extra piece of tubing from the stock snorkel back on to get a little bit more cool outside air in the vicinity of the filter, but otherwise it worked out great. Although I do really like the heat shield from the Takeda intake, so if anybody finds out a way to duplicate it let me know. Otherwise that may turn into another project.

Also, does anybody know why the stock snorkel has a bunch of holes drilled in the bottom of it? I was thinking that's kinda lame since it seems like some of the fresh air coming in would escape out of the holes. If it doesn't really affect anything, I may cover them up to help direct more fresh air to the filter.

Oh, and extra bonus, the HPS kit is one size fits all for the 2.0 and 2.4L engines. The only difference is that the 2.4 has a larger throttle body connector, so it uses a reducer to attach the intake.

Here's pics:

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[attachment=12161:P2010115.JPG]

[attachment=12162:P2010116.JPG]

and yes, my engine bay does look funny. I got tired of the crap-tastic paint job I did on the engine cover and spark plug cover, so I took them off, sanded them down and am currently in the process of repainting them. That's gonna be a huge process because I want it to come out right this time.

Hey everyone,
I just bought an 09 Lancer ES and I have about 4820 miles on the car now butfor come reason when I put it in reverse it will act as f it isn't engaged... When my Lancer is warmed up or even cold I put it in reverse and it seems to not wanna go in goes half way than I gotta pop it out and put it back in or gears grind which I know so i don't let the clutch up. Does any one else have that problem or should I take it in? I am worried that the synchroes are going already... I know how to drive a manual so that isn't the problem... I have the 2.0L with 5 speed manual tranmission... I had a friend who owned Lancer 5 speeds drive it and e said to take it in to the dealer but I didn't want to take it in for them to tell me they are chasing ghosts and wanted to see what everyone thought about it
Thanks for your input.

There's more stuff that I'd like to do to my car power / performance wise, I have a long list of things, so I was wondering....... how much horsepower do you guys think can be safely added to the 2.4L engine without upgrading internals? I never built a 4 cylinder before so I'm not sure what these engines can handle.

Forget the warranty or anything like that, I just want to know how many hp's can we throw into this thing without wreaking it?

hey guys i need some help. i have a problem with my 2010 lancer gts. installed a Tsudo cat back exhaust system and from time to time it sets off the check engine light. OBD P2423. HC Adsorption Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold. checked for an exhaust leak and none. i heard something about i actually dont need one of my O2 sensors. which one would that be? probably the one all the way in the back i would assume. no clue and i dunno what to do any suggestions?

I'm going to wait until my warranty runs out, but I'm looking for some info on Supercharge Kits for the 08 lancer ES (4b11 Non turbo). I know adding pressure to the non turbo engine isn't a good idea because of all the other high strength parts it is missing from the turbo models. I'm looking for an economical way to add just a few psi to the engine. I don't race, I don't beat on the car, I just want some more pep.

Does anyone know if there is a supercharge kit available for our cars? If there aren't any kits, does anyone have recommendations for about 4-8 psi compressor that would match well with our little 4-banger?

i am looking for cold air intake for my 09 lancer es and its automatic but all the ones i find are for manuals only i dont even understand that!









and just a side note you can read for fun:

last week when i was pulling out of the school parking lot a girl wearing a cloth belt with metal ring-studs jumped on the hood of my car and the dumb bitch left scratches down the hood i filed a police report and im in the process of getting on for her being an unruly juvenile as well i was so mad i had to get it water sanded and buffed out it looks perfect now but when it happened...........

I'm looking to get a turbo system for my Lancer. It's an '08 GTS. I already have a Fujita intake and a Tsudo Exhaust. Having a hard time finding an entire turbo system for it. Does anyone have any suggestions for company, turbo size, programmers. etc? I'm new to the whole tuner bit but I've been driving a GT Pony for several years so I know a few things. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Anyone seen the Secret Weapon R Intake for the 08 Lancers? I found them on the Weapon R website but I can't seem to find them at any other websites. Anyone found them somewhere else that would be cheaper than ordering straight from Weapon R?