This is a few intake and induction break downs

for 6G72 (3.0) 6G73 (2.5) 6G74 (3.5) SOCH and DOCH, and 6A12 (2.0) and 6A13 (2.5) SOCH equipped FWD

1992-1997 Mitsubishi Galant 6G73 2.5 V6
1992-1995 Mitsubishi Galant 6A12 2.0 V6
1996-1998 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13 SOCH
1996-2004 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13T (DOCH)
1996-2005 Mitsubishi Diamante 6G72/6G73/6G74 DOCH , SOCH and Variable Geometry Intake Plenum
1997-2005 Mitsubishi Magna/Verada 6G72 and 6G74

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

problem solving
use a led test light or a multi meter

long short gives you the codes

http://www.ecmtogo.com/removing_ecm.htm

location
on australian cars
ECI/ECU is on the passengerside kickpanel at glovebox height
TCU is under the carpet below the radio (TR/TS) 4 cyl
or (TR/TS) V6 on the fire wall middle behind the dash


SRS is under the gearshift console

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthre...839075#poststop




order an owners manual
http://www.giantuniverse.com/owners.htm

http://rapidshare.com/files/93856183/TR-TS...Manual_1995.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93851743/Mitsu...2-95_Manual.zip

http://rapidshare.com/files/93849679/6g72_Engine.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93865565/magnaworkshop.part1.rar

http://rapidshare.com/files/93868998/magnaworkshop.part2.rar

http://www.adobe.com/ap/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

http://winrar.download-express.org/

I've been monitoring my fuel usage in my Automotive Wolf software for almost two years.

In the last few days I've been parking outside rather than in my garage. Today I found out that my usage went from 16.5l/100km to 19.5l/100km.

I was dragging around a towbar which I've since removed but other than that nothing has changed.

Could it be that parking outside in summer is making me lose as much as 1/2 litre a day in evaporation? Or could it be fuel leaks from the angle that the car is parked on (it is up a small but steep concreted incline)? Perhaps a combination?

Curioso

Ok, having a couple problems with my 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante so Im gonna list all the problems to see if they have to do anything with my main problem.

1st thing i noticed is the car will not stay cranked with the AC not on, and when it cranks with the AC on I have to rev the engine a few times before something cuts on in the engine(I hear something turn on then the car stays on)-------this all started after I took my battery out to gain access to my headlights.

2nd thing I noticed is when driving on the highway(with foot on the gas) and I turn the AC off, the check engine light sometimes goes on and then off.

3rd thing I noticed is that my spedometer kinda wiggles and moves even when I have cruise control set. for example. if im set at 70mph, the neddle toggles between 70 & 80mph

The other night I broke my keyy off inside of the driver side door, luckily had a spare key.
next day I went to start the car and no start just a loud click, waited a few hours and the wah-lah the car cranked. Drove back & forth to work a few days and then the car shut off all of a sudden while coming to a stop sign, attempted to start the car and no start again just a click. Next day tapped on the starter and wah-lah instant crank.
Replaced the started and still no start just a loud clicking noise and lights dim really low when I attempt to start tthe car??????????

I had the batt and alt. checked before I replaced the starter and they were fine.

So what Am I missing?
Ive heard check wiring, theft deterrant system, starter relay, main relay, Batt, grounds etc.

How do I go about checking these things or could it be something diff?

Hi

On a TP Magna (1990) and probably its predecessors (TN, TM) the front hubs need to be removed to renew the wheel bearings. They mention a hub removal tool in the manual, but has anyone found one or done it without it? The danger is damaging the hub when not using a puller/removal tool designed for the job. I doubt any puller would work because the manual talks about bolting the removal tool to the steering knuckle's boltholes (from the front struts, ball joint and tie rod end, when its out of the car) and the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped. I can't imagine any average puller being able to be affixed to it somehow, whether through leverage or a nut and bolt.

Curioso

Is there any real difference , other than price between the Wagon and Sedan parts?

For example:
Mechanical Catalog - 1994 - Mitsubishi - Diamante
Engine, Camshaft and timing, Camshaft and timing, Lower cover, Lower cover, cover, diamante, sedan - 3.0l sohc - 3.0L SOHC
$47.57 $34.25 $0.00 $34.25 Delete From Cart
Mechanical Catalog - 1994 - Mitsubishi - Diamante
Engine, Camshaft and timing, Camshaft and timing, Lower cover, Lower cover, cover, diamante, station wagon - 3.0l sohc - 3.0L SOHC
$133.58 $96.18 $0.00 $96.18 Delete From Cart

Why is the same part 3x the cost? I would figure the engines would be exactly the same, there's no distinction in the shop manuals for the wagon or the 6G72 manual.
I can see front springs and shocks being slightly different due to the weight difference, but things like control arms and steering should be the same.

Specifically, I am looking for the timing covers, for some reason they warped and got rubbed through by the pulleys and belts.
They were really oily, so maybe engine oil swells the plastic.

I also need a front lower control arm rear bushing. That part truly is robbery, $500 for the whole arm, when all I want is the damper/bushing
at the end. The same part from a stealth or 3000GT is about 1/3 to 1/4 the price for the whole arm and it's only slight different in shape.

Hi

I think it was chain rattle who had TP Magna Timing Cover Oil Seal change instructions? I'm hoping to change it with the least amount of mucking around.

I know you have to remove the LHS Engine Mount so the engine drops down enough to remove the pulley, but do you also have to jam a screwdriver in the torque converter so you can remove the pulley bolt without the engine turning?

Curioso

i have a diamante (93 wagon) and one of the ball joint went bad. i got just the ball joint (because i am not paying $400 for a freakin' arm i don't need) and i have the ball joint tool to pop it out but... the ball joint is in pieces. it's been over a decade (actually 14 years when i was still a teen) since i replaced it and i can't remember what i did.

i have the actual ball joint. ok. i have a boot, yes. i have the lock nut, ok. i have the grease that goes in the joint.. fine. then i have this collar ring and 2 different notches on the ball joint. which notch does it go on? the first one? if so, then i don't think it'll sit right when pressed into the suspension. if it goes on the bottom... um, it doesn't look big enough and if so, then i guess i would have to get a tool to pry the collar open and snap it in the notch.

help me out here. if pics are needed, let me know, i'll snap some. thanks!!

Can you take off the oil pump without removing the oil pan?

Mine leaks between the pump and block, the alternator was completely coated with grime.

Also is there any real difference between the 6G72 SOHC used in the Sedan and Wagon?
the parts for the wagon are about 30% more expensive, but the engines should be the same.

For some reason the lower timing cover got warped and rubbed against the crank pulley, it's got
a big hole there. Inside, it was mostly clean, the outside was all oily.

Hello,

Ive done a lil bit of reading of the fuel filter.

When im in the car, my engine seems to shake a bit when im stationary as if its struggling to do something.
It feels like it might one stall one day.

What could be the reason for this and what should I check?

What does a clogged fuel filter look like and where is it located.
How easy is it to get out?

Ben

I have a 92 Diamante that needs air shocks. The problem is every time I try to find them online I can only find regular struts. I called the dealership and they confirmed that the car needs air shocks and gave me the part number MB892365. Where is a place to get these at a good price?

I just bought another Diamante. It's got all the bells and whistles... you know the ones that are all over the instument panel - some are orange, some are red... ?

It's not in terrible shape - needs a few commom components.

It has code PO443, which is evap / surge - - does anyone know the location of particular trouble spots on this car - where the evap system is prown to developing a crack, etc?

The charging system warning light is also on (you know, the little battery) - so I probably need a new alternator, right? (swapping in another battery already)

Any input is appreciated.

thanks!

I noticed that the oil filter housing on my 97 3.0 is cracked and leaking badly. I have the repair manual and started taking the timing covers off. I'm stuck at the crankshaft. I've done more research and see that removing the crankshaft pulley requires a special tool. Is there a way to make a tool to take it off? Or a trick to doing the filter housing that doesn't require removing the crankshaft pulley? Thanks

I have a 1997 diamante with the nav system in it.
I need to reboot the system to get the stereo working, but i need a reboot cd for it.
I have been to the chch mitsi dealership and they dont have the cd i need to reboot it, so im wondering if there are any other 97 diamante owners out there in chch that have the cd i could use to see if it will work..(different nav systems use different disc's).

Cause im so over not having any music

Cheers
Pete

Hi

I inspected my fan belt today - actually took the whole thing off. There was a long section of it about a millimetre wide that had seperated from the main belt but was still attached at both ends to it - like a 20cm strand of the belt.

Is it recommended to change a fan belt in this condition? There wasn't any major pitting in the rubber ribs of the belt, which is usually the telltale sign of deterioration - when you have valleys or pits in the ribs (hairline cracks usually not being a problem if they remain at that stage and do not progress further).

This fan belt is for the alternator and power steering. The aircon compressor fan belt is a different design and didn't seem to be worn hardly at all.

Curioso

Hey guys,

Havent been here in a while but now some more q's

My car has 196,561 k's on it.
I would like to know how many k's are left till it dies.

I guess it would depend on whether im maintaining it or not.
I bought the car second hand so i hope from here on to maintain it regularly

Any advice would be helpful thanks

Ben

Does anyone know how many wagon were made?

I just picked up a 1995 Diamante Wagon, 158,000 miles.The car had a new water pump and timing belts at 123000. The inside is super clean, it has no major dents just some door dings. The car run's great. I paid 1500. Do you think I got a good deal?

Hi, jus wondering, what kind of connector/plug (12 pin or 16 pin) (near the fuse box or ECU) can be connected to a laptop in order to get gauge readings from a program such as Blazt,, ( ders also many others). Im particularly interested as aparently programs such as Blazt can tell u error codes with descriptions that can find and diagnose problems within the engine mangement components.

Now my question is this, does the verada 97 have an OBD connector or OBD II. The difference is that OBD can only read a few ECU gauges . eg. Throttle, RPM, Speed. Where as OBD II can read all that , plus much more and change certain engine variables, eg Cylinder shut off, RPM change, Base IDle change.. etcc etcc

Now im not too sure if OBD II variables can be changed on these cars at all, but ive been doin sum research nd it can be done on other cars.

I jus wana look cool having a laptop siting in the pasenger side and showing all da gauges LOL
even if it is an OBD II conection, im not planing to change engine variables, ( mite screw sumthin up baddddd)

Also where can i get a cheap cable from (OBD USB) or (OBD II USB) , as iv noticed that the OBD usb is bout 80 bux compared to the OBD II which is about half dat price..

Cheerio

Hi all,

I have a 1999 Diamante, and I want to know how to get some sort of notification when I lock/unlock the doors, Like the horn chirping or the lights flashing. I'm sure there's a way to program it to do that, and I'm sure it tells you in the owner's manual, but I don't have one. Can anybody help out?

Chad

Hey, just wondering if anyone is able to help us and and inform me on how to remove the speakers from my 1997 Verada Wagon;
The rear speakers, front door speakers and tweaters.
Would be great if someone could help out.
Cheers.

I found 02 LS with 33,000 miles, one owner ( she died and family is selling), very good shape small dent on front bumper and needs tires. $6000.00 or offer. What if any problems should i look for? I have owned other Mitsu's just don't nothing about Diamantes. Any help would be great...Thanks

I have a 2001 mitsubishi diamante and for some reason the directional button on the a/c controls isn't working. The air conditioning only blows slightly out of the far sided vents near the doors, when i push the directional button the screen shows the change in flow but it doesn't do anything. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and could give me a solution, thanks.

hey just wondering how 2 adjust my fan belts floored the car really hard this morning.
now one of the belts is slipping and making a squeking noise any tiips on how 2 fix this up?

Hello,

Is it true that the whole engine has to come out of the car in order to replace the engine mounts?

Just would like to know if i can do this myself or do i need some specialise chain pulley thing (take to mechanic)

Ben

I'm sure this has been covered off on another thread before, so if anyone can point me to that I would appreciate it.
I have TR Magna 2.6 with chain rattle (I believe). Approx 210 000 km on the clock.
I realise no-one can tell me what the problem is, but is there a typical wear behaviour on this engine that you could take a punt on the cause ie worn guides or stretched chain or fault tensioner and which chain (timing or balance or both)
What's the procedure for checking and adjusting chain tension?
Can this be done without removing timing cover on both chains?
Thanks.

Hey I gotta change you my break pads on my VR-X and I was wondering what socket sizes I will need to get the caliper off. Also what size socket for the piece that holds the caliper so I can get the rotor off, one needs to be replaced. thanks

Hey just wondering how to get my volume buttons on my steering wheel to work again.
They were working then i hit the call button on the wheel when the radio was scanning then it stopped working after this.
hitting call again didnt fix the problem.
Anyone know how 2 fix this up? any help would be appreciated.

hi, i have a verada 97 and it sometimes doesnt start. the problem started around a month ago where by it started wen the weather was warm, but now, it doesnt even start first time in the cold. i thought it mite hav been the starter motor so i replaced it, but stil same problem,. the car cranks real nicely and battery is 1 yr old, but she jus doesnt turn on.
this problem wud often hapen wen its switched on gas, but now its doing it on petrol aswell.
any1 know or have any suggestions? cars been recently serviced aswell.

Hi

21 months ago I installed a new cylinder head on a TP 1990 Magna with a new set of 8 hydraulic lifters or tappets. I checked the tappets for hammer damage, seizing or wear today and found that six have totally seized (no spring action) and one came apart into four pieces. The surviving tappet looks a bit beaten up also, with a clunky action to it.

Does anyone know the correct procedure for installing these? I have a torque wrench that goes as low at 19Nm, the recommended setting for "camshaft bearing caps" in the manual. Other than that I think these have something to do with the valve clearance height which I have no idea how to adjust. And then I heard today that after a few hundred clicks or so you have to adjust the tappets again or void warranty.

Thanks

Curioso

Hi everyone, I recently did a manual conversion on my 3.0L TF Magna Altera.
During the conversion I changed over the intermediate driveshaft (driver side half shaft) which was slighly shorter than the auto one.
After doing the conversion and driving around for a bit I noticed a leak on the diff seal so I replaced the seal.
I'm still getting the leak.

I'm wondering if for some reason the intermediate shaft I put on is too short and I need to put the auto one back.
My reason for thinking this is that the metal dust seal (metal ring) on the drive shaft does not go over the lip of the seal once all bolted in and sits about 0.5-1mm out from the lip of the seal which is where the oil is leaking from.

I have two questions.

Do the diff seals need to be pushed all the way in?
Is the drive shaft dust cover meant to go over the lip of the seal? if not why is it even there?

At this point I'm going to pull the drive shaft off again (take 3) and see how the old driveshaft lines up, if the dust cover goes over the seal and it doesn't seem to be hitting anything in the box then I'll swap it over..

Has anyone else who did a manual conversion had this problem?

Thanks.

Guys, my a/c has died, the compressor had seized. Well i have replaced the compressor and the a/c guys tested the system, and they are trying to tell me that the TX valve is clogged. there was low pressure on both sides of the system, and not too much cold air was coming through. The thing is i can't find the tx valve in the service manual... Any ideas, i thought maybe it was inside the Evaporator, or cooling unit inside the car... If not TX valve maybe the hi/low sensor in the dryer..

Hi

My son wants a Magna. Viewed one on Saturday that had a pretty good body and a very good interior. What it may need are the valve stem oil seals replaced (puffs a bit of blue smoke after idling for a while). Is this a fairly simple job? Also I noticed the gear selector (auto) hasn't got a stopper between Drive and Neutral. Presumably there should be one and this can be fixed. Again, is this a simple procedure? Lastly there is an obvious oil leak from the passenger (nearside) of the engine. It's not been cleaned off so I can't see exactly where it's coming from but would anyone have an idea as to whether this is a common problem?

Car is a 93 or 94 TR SE.

Thanks.

Hello,

The gasket (rubber) on the valve cover i know that definitely needs gasket RTV sealant
but what about the thin metal ones between the Throttle Body and the other metal ones, im sure there are more
do they need RTV sealant on them too?

In a few weeks or months, i wanted to check whether oil is still going to get into the rear spark plug tubes
so i have at this stage not used sealant on the Throttle Body gasket cos once I seal it up i will have to break the seal
and need a new throttle body gasket.

Do all gaskets need RTV sealant?

Ben

Hello

what is the default idle setting on the tachometer
what should it read when idle
it seem to float around 1.1

2. My mate said that the gauge on the dashboard
is the tachometer
is he right and if yes can I use that one to test for idle speed
or do I need a tachometer to connect to the engine

3. Apparently there is a way to hear and adjust the idle
just by listening to it without any guages
if yes what should I be listening for
thanks heaps for ur guys help so far

Ben

Hello

i have previous tried to Jack up the car and accidentally
put a dent in it due to wrong jackstands location maybe

can some please post pics or instructions of where to
place all jackstands
thanks

any suggestions would be appreciated,I have a TF magna sports V6 auto and the SRS warning light has come on but at the same time the horn has stopped working and so has the cruise control. The SR%S light is on all the time,the horn does not work at all and the cruise control activating button on the dash lights but none of the paddles on the steering columb will activate anything. Ive checked the main SRS fuse in the engine bay,its ok,so was hoping for some other suggestions before I ship it off to a mechanic. Did think that possibly there could be some problem where the steering wheel connects to the columb as I ssume there must be some sort of sliding contact etc but not game to pull the wheel off. Thanks all!!

Hello

does this provide a pressure gauge, vacuum gauge and tachometer
instead of buying the components separately I thought I would
use te computer and evoscan
how accurate is it compared to real gauges

I would like to know what Mitsubishi used for OEM plugs in 97 Diamante. I would think Nippon or NGK. Also are the OEM platinum or iridium. I pulled one from the car and its a Champion.

Thanks

Hello,

I need to clean my throttle body. I have noticed some gunk in there. Would like to clean it
and give it better idling.

Any recommendations for my model.
V6 3.0 TF model

Ben

Should I clean it out, and if yes, what should I clean it with?

Here are pics of the inside.

[attachment=11526:UIP.JPG]
[attachment=11527:UIP__1_.JPG]
[attachment=11528:UIP__2_.JPG]

Thanks
Ben

Hey guys

me again 98 rf magna v6 3.0
I don't know if the engine mounts
have ever been replaced on this car
so how will I know if they need replacing, any signs to look for
is it a hard job?

Ben

Hello all,
I am a newbie. I searched for what i want but no luck. Hence i am posting my pbm here. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I got 2003 Diamante. My audio set is not working. I was working fine but on one fine day it decided not to work. I did nothing unusual. It has got a CD inside and display never turns off (even if engine is turned off).

Any help will be greatly appreciated,
- Yogaa

Hi all.
Just like many of you, the transmission started acting funny for no reason. Took everything apart and there is significant evidence of coolant on the plastic that protects the ECM and the floorboard.

Everyone keeeps talking about a "transmission relay". Where is this?

I found a local junkyard that has the ECM I have (w/traction).
I have 3 boxes in the front center of the car:
1. Air bag module (very bottom of ECM) part MR538276
2. ECM part MR514497
3. Traction control box (just below the radio mounted vertically) part MR502450.

Where is the mystery "transmission relay"?

I have all of the metal "kickplates" off the side of the center hump and can't find this MD759545 relay anywhere.

Also, if I swap out the ECU - do I need new remotes for my keyless entry/security?

Thanks.

Hi

I went to a wreckers today and removed a decent looking gearbox for a TP Magna as a spare. Cost a bit but I'm not confident without one, because they often have problems.

As is my custom though, I removed the pan while the box was still connected to the engine, and drained the box with that as well as the plug beforehand. To my surprise however, the five(5) magnets on the pan's base had no metal filings on them at all. Usually this is a good litmus test of how worn the box's clutch plates etc are. The other thing was the oil was a healthy-looking reddish brown - I've seen much worse oil in these boxes. And there was recently applied blue sealant all over the join between the box's two hemispheres - indicating recent work. And overall the box was hardly scratched or greasy at all, which is also rare for a 21 year old box.

Could it be that these things, especially the total lack of metal filings on all five magnets, indicate a recently reconditioned box with new plates that haven't worn yet? Or, to play devil's advocate, could it be that the plates are so worn that there was no more metal filings left to be scraped from them onto the pan magnets? This last alternative would mean that someone changed the filter and pan gasket and removed the filings but didn't realise the plates were now unserviceable, hence why it ended up at the wrecker perhaps (there was no crash damaged on it, but that's not unusual).

Which do you think is the most likely scenario? A good box or bad box?

If I took a guess myself I'd say a good box that had its filter recently replaced, owing to its apparent good quality and good oil. Too many pointers to a new box for my liking here, but I'm not totally sure. It's a quandary, a riddle wrapped in an enigma .

Curioso

Hello,

I have a few questions about my magna 98 TF advance.
Main job im trying to do is replace my spark plugs front and rear.

1. How do I remove these bolts to remove the upper intake plenum? (shown in leftsidebolt1.jpg and rightsidebolt1.jpg)
Its weird but when i look at the bottom of the
[attachment=11459:leftsidebolt1.JPG]
[attachment=11460:rightsidebolt1.JPG]

2. How do I stop oil from getting onto the spark plugs? and spark plug tube? (shown in oilonsparkplugwire1.jpg)
[attachment=11461:oilonspa...lugwire1.JPG]

Hello,

I have a V6 3.0L TF Magna 98

Can the ECU Fuel/Air ratio table be modified so that when more air via a new airflow system (not sure which one) comes in
less fuel is injected by the ECU?

eg. for every 2x AIR, use 1x Fuel or 1.5x Fuel.
The way I see it is the ECU has been programmed for stock Air Filters and not
K&N Filters and that those filters are used for one thing in mind 'more power'

But now I dont want power like everyone else, I want increase fuel efficiency.
Im also gonna remove the spare wheel and use a fix-a-tyre thingee
and remove the backseats. (very basic weight reduction)

I know that with with more air, more fuel gets used due to the airflow sensor sensing more airflow
and communicating back to the ECU, retrieving fuel/air ratio and injecting the appropriate amount of fuel.

Would anyone know if it can be done and how much it might cost me?
im thinking of taking it into mitsubishi to find out if it can be done.

Ben

Hello,

My mate knows a bit about windscreen removal and I we are going to do it together on my one cos its cracked.
I would like to know whether its in the workshop manual or whether someone has something they could post online for me.

Cheers,,

Ben