Everything You Need to Know About the Car.

This is broken up into a couple sections. Modifying, History, Common issues, The Active Suspension, Search

Modifying:
The vast majority of people who buy a 3000GT non turbo are under the impression that one day they will do the twin turbo conversion. The sad reality is that 99% of them will not. Of those 99% about half will have their car blow up. The rest will sell and buy a turbo 3000GT. Another misconception is that BPU upgrades on the non turbo models actually do something. Nothing noticeable will happen. There are no chips or programmers available. Buy your self a set of cams and cam gears. Taking the rear seats out of this car will not make it any faster, sorry not going to happen. It is not a race car it is a Grand Touring Car.
If you bought an automatic… enough said.

If you have a turbo car the first upgrades should be intake, downpipe, cat back exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge. From there you will need to decide what you actually want to do and how much power you want to make. That is a topic in it self.
If you have a non-turbo, you can do intake, headers, cat-back, (not going to net much real world wheel gains)

History:
The Mitsubishi 3000GT
The Mitsubishi GTO
The Dodge Stealth
Guess what, with the exception of a couple body panels and the GTO being Right hand drive no difference. They did have different submodels but they are the same car.
GTO stands for Gran Turismo Omogolato which is translated from Italian as a grand touring race. The reason it was named the 3000GT for stateside use was because Mitsubishi did not want to confuse buyers with other cars such as the Pontiac GTO and the Ferrari GTO. 3000 GT stands for 3 Liter Grand Tourer. Dodge Stealth, Dodge has always had nifty names.

Common Issues, questions, concerns, things that people need to know and ask with out searching:
1. The gauges are just estimates they are not actual readings. EXPECALLY the boost gauge, do not use the stock boost gauge to judge boost.
2. Yes, you have to take the entire intake plenum off to change all six plugs, no changing the front three is not good enough, no its not hard to get to the last three.
3. Changing this car from any configuration to rear wheel drive is useless, go by a Z
4. The GENERAL consensus is that body kits do not look good on the 3000GT, Maybe a front lip and some new rims but dump your money into the motor.
5. Anyone who thinks a non turbo 3000GT is fast or quick, is sadly mistaken.
6. You only need one blow off valve.

The Active Suspension:
That little annoying green flashing light on your dash that says tour/sport is for your active suspension. If it’s blinking the system has broke and defaulted to the Sport mode. If you want to attempt to fix it you can check the four connections which are on top of each strut, than I would check the computer and by check I mean replace, or if you don’t mind it always being in sport mode just disconnect the computer and that will turn off the tour sport light. Looking in the trunk to the right there is a plastic panel with one screw, remove it and unclip the two plugs.
As with any car if you lower your car you need to get matching struts. Some people will argue that you don’t need to if you only drop an inch, but I don’t see why you would not do the complete job correctly the first time.

Search:
When using the search feature only type key words such as, “PWR ECO” for what does the PWR ECO button do? Or, “Tour Sport” for what does the Tour Sport light mean?

Remember to do your timing belt and water pump every 60,000 miles.

Also, keep in mind as with any other car,

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.

Take a look at the list, now pick two because that’s all you are able to have. (Which ever two you pick are the ones your car will be, the other one is what the car will not be.)

TEAM3S.com has a complete walk through for just about anything concerning this car.

And as a friendly reminder, please use the search feature.

~Eric

The main reason to go turbo is the added power. I am going to do a short write up of the process of the easiest way to Turbocharge a non turbo 3000GT or Stealth.

Parts List:

Stock TT Injectors

Stock TT Fuel Pump

Stock TT Oil filter Housing

Stock TT Water Neck

Stock TT Down pipe

Stock TT Oil Cooler and lines

Stock TT Plenum-- 78

5.6 OHM Resistors-- 7.73-- www.partsexpress.com

Stock TT Front Motor Mount Bracket

Stock TT Transmission Bracket

Stock TT Oil Pressure Switch

Stock TT Oil Pan

Stock TT Front Precat

Stock TT Exhaust

Stock TT Intercoolers

Stock TT Intercooler piping/intake

Stock TT BOV

Solid Motor Mounts

Fuel Controller

Boost Controller

Boost Gauge

Wide Band

Stock TT Oil feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Coolant feed/return lines TT Stock

Stock TT Turbos

Stock TT Manifold

Stock TT Air filter

Stock TT Gaskets

I wouldn't even think about taking one piece off of your car unless you have all the parts, or you have a second reliable vehicle.

The first thing I did was put the car on four jack stands and take the two front wheels off. Once the car is up off the ground you will find it 100% easier to work on as you don't have to bend down into the engine bay, and getting underneath is pretty easy. Granted a lift would be 200% better I dealt with what I was given.

So the car is up in the air. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If your seats are power, move them all the way back as the next step is to remove the battery. Put the battery in a safe place and not on a concrete floor.

I would then swap the fuel pump. You have a couple options here.
1) Use the TT stock assembly and pump and its a direct drop in.
2) Use the TT stock assembly and an aftermarket pump.
3) Use the NA stock assembly with the Stock TT pump or aftermarket pump. (this will require some modification and the use of worm clamps or hose clamps)

Once the fuel pump is in you can close the trunk as that the last time you need to go in there.

I then sprayed down all the nuts and bolts on the exhaust with PB BLASTER, (don't waste your time with anything else just shut your mouth and use PB Blaster) Spray the headers, the down pipe and the cat bolts.

Now while thats doing its job, you get to get organized. I bought Number tags and used them to mark everything I disconnected. This is where I disconnect all the wires on the transmission side of the engine. Connections start at the throttle body and move towards the front bumper. Remove them all. If It is a wire and hooks up the engine disconnect it and mark it.

Drain the radiator, oil pan, oil filter and transmission.

Remove the cooling fans and radiator and store in a safe place. BE SURE TO GET ALL THE FLUID OUT.

Remove the Waterneck and thermostat assembly. Be sure to remove the corrosion if you are using used parts.

Move underneith the car and remove the Driver side axle. This will make your life easier with the rear header and rear motor mount.

Now remove the Downpipe, and as much of the exhaust as you are changing.

Swap oil pans.

Remove front manifolds.

Swap the front motor mount bracket.

Remove the AC compressor and bracket to gain access to the oil filter housing. Swap these. Reattach AC bracket and compressor. You are not actually removing the compressor, you are only unbolting it from its place and moving it away so you can work there.

Clean your hands.

Take the front bumper off.

Stuff the holes on the intercoolers with rags.

Install the passenger intercooler.

Now the fun par find a dremel and go to town on the driver side. first mock up the driver intercooler and see where the hole needs to be and then open it up. Attatch the driver intercooler. The holes are in place so just use the existing holes. The passenger side is easier because the intercooler is the only thing on that side. The driver side also has the oil cooler.Which you should also hook up at this time.

If your oil cooler is not new, you need to flush it. Go to a coin op with a can of PB blaster and flush the thing. Make sure the water is CLEAN when it comes out and make sure you get it all out. I used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I decided it was dry on the inside.

Now with both intercoolers hooked up and the oil cooler attatched the frame take the hoses and attatch the oil cooler to the Oil filter housing. Use NEW crush washers.

Assemble the front turbo. Oil lines and cooling lines. Attach to the front manifold. Then take the whole object (manifold & turbo & O2 Housing) to the front of the block. Attach cooling lines and oil lines.

Keep the rear turbo handy. Remove the upper intake manifold (Plenum) Stuff rags in holes left on engine IMMEDIATLY.


YOU ARE FUCKED IF A BOLT FALLS IN ONE OF THESE HOLES


Remove rear manifold. Swap with Turbo manifold. Attach rear turbo. To the manifold. Attach all lines. Attach rear O2 housing.

Remove the Fuel rails. Swap the injectors. Solider the resistors into the front and rear harness. Reattach the fuel rails with the larger injectors.

Replace the fuel rails.

Put on the Turbo upper plenum. The reason I reccomend using the Turbo plenum instead of the NA is the NA has the VICS motor exactly where the rear turbos hard intercooler pipe wants to go.


Now both turbos are on the engine. Hooked to an oil source and water source which also means that the water neck is changed and that the oil filter housing is changed. You also should have the oil return lines hooked up the the oil pan. This was a pain in the ass and I reccomend getting longer bolts to do this. This actually took me close to two hours pretty much the hardest part of the whole thing.

Attatch the intercooler pipes and hoses to the turbos and intercoolers.

Reattach the exhaust. You should have an 02 sensor and a wide band sensor installed in the exhaust before you bolt it up.

Now its time for the gauges. Wire those in. I reccomend, a wideband, EGT (placed in the rear exhaust manifold before the turbo, and a boost gauge.

Also install the SAFC.

Pull your plugs crank the engine to prime those turbos. Put the plugs back on start and hope you are good.

Click on a subject below and you will be redirected to the answer.

How Much Horsepower Does My Car Have?

Click here to find out the history and the changes year by year.

Where can I get OEM parts at wholesale pricing?

What are some good sites to find parts?

My Radio Displays ERR or ofF

My Sport Tour light is flashing. Why?

How do I change my fuel pump?

My "Brake" light stays on, even after the E-Brake is disengaged. Why?

Please, if you are asking for help with diagnostics, do everyone a favor and list the make, model, year, trans type, engine type, modifications, etc of your car when asking questions about it. Most of us aren't mind readers (although some of us may play one on tv). It will help you get the help you need faster and keep me from asking so many questions and increasing my post count unnecessarily. I think we need a standard format for questions.

year:
make:
model:
mileage:
trans type:
recent maintenance:
recent modifications:
other modifications:

Something like that will help everyone out that is trying to help you. So, please take the time when writing your post to include this much needed information. All of your friends might know what you drive... but we're not your friends

hello every one my 1992 mitsubishi 3000 gt sl 3.0 non turbo isnt quite running right as it seems to have some sort of miss under load and acts kinda sluggish wen taking off from a dead stop from time to time
THINGS I HAVE DONE TO THE CAR SO FAR INCLUDE:
CHANGING PLUGS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES
SWAPPING OUT 2 DIFFERENT ECU'S
BRAND NEW IAC STEPPER MOTOR
BRAND NEW PTU
BRAND NEW FUEL FILTER
BRAND NEW BATTERY
ADDING SEAFOAM TO ENGINE OIL AND INTAKE VACUUM LINES AS WELL AS INJECTOR CLEANER TO THE GASOLINE
im not sure where to go from here?? im absolutely clueless on wat to do from here as im not sure if its the coil packs, slightly out of time or even somethin as simple as the maf sensor being dirty.. the car doesnt seem to have any check engine lights on or anything like that so your advice wood only be helpful here.. if it is something as easy as the maf well how do i get it apart to clean it?? since this is a 92 model is there a crank sensor or ignition timing adjustment here or is that not the prob?? please help

hi every one i got a 2.6 motor in a mighty max truck and the engine needs to be bored out to .40 or steel sleeved back to stock bore what do you guys sujest doing? i dont know if it will have over heating problems or not that why i need input thank you from joe

Car - 1992 3000gt SL

Problem - Car wont stay on, it starts, then little by little the idle goes up and down until it finally just shuts off. When I drive it, it runs when I hit the gas, but it makes a loud clanky sound when I hit the gas. Then when I come to a stop the idle goes crazy again and it shuts off. Blows white smoke as well. I thought it was due to my power steering belt busting, but I replaced it and now the same issue.

Can anyone help?

ok so i just bought a 1992 3000gt. its awd and twin turbo has a couple mods done to it.

it has a kind of ticking noise when running, like a lifter tick? does anyone else have this? or should i be worried the engine is going to dump?

it turns over and starts but not not everytime. idk if i need a battery or a starter because sometimes it fires right up and other times it has to be jumped to start

i have 4 new struts i have to put on the vehicle. how easy is it to change them?

and there is a dent in the drivers side quarter panel its good size. are the quarters bolt on or weld on.

other than that it drives and shifts fine, it has a bout 120000 miles on it and i plan on having the timing belt and waterpump changed immediatly.

please help out if you can!

Alright... a friend of mine owns a 94 Dodge Stealth ES... essentially a 3000GT SL with dodge logos... for quite a while now he has had a very strange problem... when at a stop light... or even in park (its an automatic)... if you let the engine idle at its typical speed... about 700 RPM... you start getting oil smoke from the exaust.. if you let it sit about 8 seconds the smoke will be coming.. more then 2 seconds will ensure a puff of smoke at takeoff... so far.. his remedy is to hold the brake, and manually keep the engine at about 1100 RPM...

Recently the car started completely dieng after it started... it just wouldnt idle... after replacing numerous sensors, without any improvement he hopped online.. found out it was the ECU... and then, amazed his mechanic, by repairing the ECU by replacing a few parts of the board... i trust his skills in fixing this... and it fixed that problem.. but the smoe in the exaust persists... hes been told its the head gasket.. but 3 seperate mechanics have been unable to find a problem with it

Hi is there anyone that can give me the 3 ecu capacitor specs please its for a 91tt jap import as i need to renew mine as 1 has started to develope a leak,
thanks.

I just hit the 200,000 mile mark on the way home. zooooooooommmm...

I think it's time for a timing belt.

There seem to be very few places who have the expertise to fix the VR4 Spyder retractable hard top.
I found Auto Sunroof of Larchmont NY (actually in New Rochelle) and they seem to know what they are doing and fix these roofs regularly. My tonneau was not releasing and my side curtains do not always come down. Car is at this place now.
(914) 633-1550 ask for Tony the owner. Right off Exit 15 Rte 95 near the Connecticut border.

I tried to get the roof service manual from Mitsubishi corporate, but they claim they no longer have it available.
Service Manual part number #MSSP101B95
If anyone knows where I can get this manual for the retractable hard top, let me know.

hey guys im new to this section was on the eclipse section for awhile sold it with the plans on goin to the dark side (honda crx with a b16) but i got a call today from my dad saying something about a 3000 gt his friend has... hasnt mentiond price said hed take a few pics for me.....i do kno its a 5 speed and not a vr4.... is there any thing i should look at and check into with these cars i want some thing reliable....... also hows the plat form with the 3000 gt for modding

Hey guys have any of you done an auto to 5 speed swap ??
IF so is there lots of fabricating??
what about clutch petal installation??

I have a 92 VR4 TT and the only thing that I would love is projector headlamps that were more aero than stock.

Obviously I could do a 94-99 front end conversion but my car is bodywork 100% original and I don't want to change the works unless I have to.

I remember a while back someone engineered a projector conversion but it was pretty crude. Has ANYONE seen a better set up? Cervus has one for the 94+ cars which don't need one but nothing for the earlier cars.

If you know of anything please email me directly ar nightflyer50@hotmail.com

Love to hear from you

Richard

Hey guys just wondering where exactly the fuel pump is located on my 92 mits 3000 gt sl and if it is a very quick and easy task to acomplish as is is starting to get bitter cold outdoors this time of the year and all my repairs have to be done in the drive way?? also while on this subject where is the fuel filter located on this model of car cus i just wanna kill 2 birds with one stone here

I am about to purchase 1999 Lexus GS400 but the seller is very discrete about the history of the car and where the dents came from. I have a feeling the car has been in an accident before and just want to confirm before I purchase the car can someone please run the carfax for me thank you.


VIN: JT8BH68X3X0014778

well i was going throw a parking lot at 30+mph, and i hit a sidewalk that ran throw the midle of the parking lot,
yes i hit it at an angle and it riped my frunt rim apart and poped my back one
i got the spare on but i was just wondering what could of broke when i hit
when i brake hard it pulls to the right the side that hit the sidewalk

pic will be up soon of it

SUP PEOPLE IM OBVIOUSLY NEW TO THE SITE IM A CURRENT OWNER OF A 3KGT SL I PURCHASED IN APRIL OF THIS YEAR IVE OWNED AN ARRAY OF DIFFERENT CARS FROM FOXBODY MUSTANGS TO SUBARU WRXS BUT I MUST SAY THAT THE 3KGT IS THE SLEEKEST CAR IVE OWNED IM ABSOLUTELY IN LOVE WITH IT EVEN THOUGH ITS AN AUTOMATIC NONTURBO

FIRST OFF YES I WANT TO TURBO IT EVEN THOUGH MOST TELL ME JUST TO SELL AND BUILD A VR4 BUT THATS NOT WHAT I WANT TO DO ITS NOT EVEN AN OPTION I WANT TO PUT THE TIME IN MYSELF

MY FIRST QUESTION IS THIS SHOULD I BUY THE JDM ENGINE AND TRANNY TO DO ALL WHEEL DRIVE SWAP IN WHICH CASE I WOULD HAVE TO BUY DRIVE SHAFT REAR AXEL AND I THINK REAR SUBFRAME IF IM NOT MISTAKEN OR TURN IT IN TO A FRONT WHEEL TWIN TURBO I UNDERSTAND BOTH WILL REQUIRE LOTS OF TIME AND MONEY AND THIS IS OK IM JUST ATM LOOKING FOR THE TIME TO DO IT. ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYBODY IVE READ OVER EMCS GUIDE TO MAKING IT FRONT WHEEL DRIVE TT SEEMS LIKE A HASSLE BUT NOT AS HARD AS I HAD IMAGINED. TY FOR THE REPLYS GUYS MUCH APPRECIATED.

hey guys took my ride to my buddys shop today to get me valve seats replaced any thing else u guys would reccomend while the heads apart to do putting all new gaskets on it too

New member "monomial" here from Sacramento Ca. I'm looking for a 1996 3000gt spyder VR4 (maybe a 1995), preferably red.

Are 1996's worth much more than 1995's?

Do you think it better to wait for a 96 or pick up a good 95 if found?

Any particular things to looks for when buying a Spyder?

Would appreciate any input.

Thanks,
Monomial

hey guys on my 1992 mitsubishi 3000 gt sl is there any way to adjust the idle as my car will idle around 2k for 5 mins on a cold start??? when it warms up its aroun 800 to 1000... ive tinkered with the one near the iac a bit but found out that this isnt a good idea due to ecu damage so i was just wondering if i was able to cure the extremely high cold start idle

Now i was thinking, what is the point carrying around the SRS computer under the arm rest when its not gonna work anywya.

i beleieve just have to disconnect the
srs control unit
take the sensors out
and take the bag out from the passanger side since the driver bag was gone with momo steering wheel.

so would i be right??????? or am i missing something...

Hey guys I'm Miguel and I'm new to the forums. I've had a '95 3000gt SL for about 3 years now and love it. Unfortunately my engine called it quits about 6 months ago after my timing belt snapped and I bent my rods and valves all up. I've recently had it rebuilt, and now whenever I start it cold it jumps to about 1k rpm and shuts back off, or if it starts it just seems like it has a hard time finding an idle and idles generally low in the 500-600 range. I figured it was the IAC/ISC or something related and it was swapped out, the throttle body has been swapped, but its still doing the same thing. Once it's warmed up it runs like a champ and idles right at 700 rpm and starts up fine. I just don't know what else to try, and the shop that I have work on it is 2 hours away and with current gas prices I cant keep driving it down there whenever I have a problem. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

HEllo, when I push to brake pedal, i feel vibration from brake pedal and from steering wheel, my friend said, it's master brake cylinder os something same, rotors iz in ok conditions, pads too...


Thanks...

hello my 92 mits 3000 gt 3.0 sl has been throught alot...it has seen a new computer as well as a new iac and new ptu... the car will run and drive down the road but feels like it has a slight miss upon first taking off from 0 mph after you get going it seems to be ok... i do know it has brand new plugs in it so does anybody have any ideas... has just recently sat for bout three years

I heard the 3000GT's sold in Europe differed from those sold in USA and Japan. Most remarkably they featured headlight washer nozzles which were placed on a blind that replaced the parking light lenses. The parking light was separated from the headlight and moved to the front bumper to be combined with the turning signals and elongated over the front fenders with a reflective blind. Also the only model available in Europe was the twin turbo version. Instead of the TD04-9b turbos (capable of 265 CFM @ 15 PSI) of the American and Japanese version, the TD04-13g turbo (capable of 360 CFM @ 15 PSI) was used alongside with a stronger version of the Getrag transmission to enable longer full-throttle drives on roads without a speed limit such as the German autobahn. (from wiki lol)
i dont know much about 3000GT VR4's cuz ima Eclipse kinda guy but I was checking out the 3000GT's and found this and thought ud like to know

Hi
I have just purchased a 1991 3000 gt and would like to change the door mirrrors to the newer folding type. I have the new mirrors and centre console switch but found out my car has the five wire type and I require seven wires.
Any advise on easiest way to convert?

hi ..

im spike from the UK and ive got the first ever MADE mitsubishi MK2 (1994) VR4 3000gt in red of course.
the uk 3000gt are 4wd with 320bhp as standerd.....its the gtos that only have 280bhp.
the 3000gt is all leather inside with all extras ...i.e...moon roof ,aeros front and back.maunal gears stick..ect...ect.


anyway just like too say a BIG HI to all fellow mitsubishi owners !!!!!!

oh and here are some pics...

[attachment=11665:15846952...b14dc0_t.jpg]
[attachment=11666:15855696...0f905852.jpg]
[attachment=11667:15855773...2f502f31.jpg]

There might be handy pictures to somone trying to understand where the timing marks are. The marks behind the crank pulley are particularly tough to locate on the first go-around:

I just traded a couple of dirt bikes I wasn't using for this '94 SL. Runs, but.... it will keep me busy.

The body isn't bad:

Hello. Now, I'm continuing to fix my ECU, found 2 bad capacitors.
But, have another question, already.

Look for next pictures... I'd like to make subwoofer enclosure, but I don't have specific size of it... Anybody have drafts with all sizes???
Thanks a lot....

Hi

A while ago the fuel pump on my 1991 GTO TT had to be replaced. A slightly upgraded pump was fitted that was within the operating parameters of the original one regarding pressure and fuel flow rate. On starting up the engine two injectors immediately flooded. Replacement injectors were fitted. This time the engine ran for 3-4 minutes before the same 2 injectors flooded. The rest of the injectors work fine. Any help greatly appreciated.

Every other lighting circut on the car works except for the headlamps .I have replaced the bulbs but still have the same prob When measuring the voltage at the bulb terminals with ignition on I get 12.5 at each terminal The popup motors work the side and tail lamps work but no headlamps I would appreciate any help thx guys

I read this article on CNN last week about electric conversions, and they mentioned a company here in NH that sells all the parts, etc. So I contacted them and asked if I could see one of their vehicles. They didn’t have any in their shop, but they put me in touch with a guy near my office that has an MX3 he converted.

This afternoon, I met up with him and checked it out. It was awesome. The hatch was full of marine batteries and he had 4 more under the hood. It was completely silent. He commutes 15 miles a day – does highway speeds. He charges off 120v nightly. His $/mile is about $0.02 according to him.

Does anyone know of a 3000GT electric conversion? We’re about 600# heavier stock (NA) than his MX, but we have a bigger engine and transmission (those go away). Plus, we have a lot more space for batteries under the hatch.

Hi, i just wonderd if any one knew if my gto would suit alloy wheels with an offset of 45 and would this offset be ok with the brakes and also would 8.0j wheels fit my gto?

thanks

Hello i got A Japanese GTO Gen 1 SR with Automatic Gearbox.
And now here is my Problem: In the Manual which is on English doesnt stand how much Oil the Gearbox needs
I found some Website thats said there is a Sticker in the Engine-room.
But that Sticker is 90% on Japanese
I got 1 who can read this but he cant get anything usefull from that Sticker.
And we need to change the Gearbox Oil due to Problems with the Gearbox that maybe could solve if we Change the oil.


Its Year 1991 but first register in UK is 1997 (Car is in germany right now where i live)
Make Mitsubishi GTO SR
Its got 90000 Kilometer on Clock thats 55 miles (dont know UK or USA-miles cause google said so)
Automatic 4 Gear Gearbox
Recent maintenance is too much to wrote in here cause we have more than 10 Din4 Letters from a Garage from previous Owner.

And sorry for my maybe bad English

And anyone knows the Partnumber for the Gearbox Oil filter?


Thanks Amd-Fan

so the story is previous owner put about 60k into this car in japan and some performance shop confirmed that this is 600 hp
year 1995, 37k, extremely mint just needs spoiler panted
They removed the GTO from the back and put "Fun Factory"
Here are the "KNOWN" mods, i wanted to ask with this setup is it needed for a bigger bore and/ or forged pistons ?

I did buy it because i dealt with the company before and i trust them, i don't have the car yet though so i have not tested it

850cc injectors
Hight adjustable suspension(TEIN)
*19 aloy wheel ( ENKEI )
engine management computer
fuel management system
* Strengthen fuell pomp
* Oil cooler
* Clutch ( made by metal twin plate type)
* Exhaust pipe
* Front pipe
* Muffler
* Inter cooler in front
* Air cleaner
* two TD-05 turbine
trust wastegate ( TRUST )
* Many meter


any opinions ? i did not bother to edit the word lol, copied and pasted from e-mail

Hello, And again, it's me.
As I said I will have a lot questions..

My next question: I have sun distorted dash panel (dash vents broken from sun damages).I found one on EBAY:
DASH PANEL EBAY

I have question, will it fit my 3000gt 1993???
Thanks a lot...

So, I've been reconditioning the 1994 SL. It was running pretty good, but most recently, I replaced the timing belt, and have that all buttoned up again. I also had the ignition system, including the transistor pack off, and cleaned those up.

At this point, the car doesn't have the intake installed or the radiator. But everything else is there.

I tried turning it over today to see if it would fire and nothing. I clamped an extra plug and wired it into the coil pack, and no spark.

I ohmed out the coils per the service manual, and they check out.

I had an extra transistor pack, and tried that - no joy.

I triple checked the electrical connectors that bolt on the side of the timing belt cover (I think the left one is the position sensor), and all the connectors around the ignition. Still no spark.

The car has been on jack stands in my garage sine it was running last. What did I break, what shoudl I check?

thanks!

(oh, and I definetly hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key if that helps...)

i happened across the you are a 3s owner if... post and noticed one that said, you wait for the rpms to drop before you shift into 2nd or 3rd. Usually i have to do that for 2nd gear, but once i go a few miles it shifts smooth. Anyways, just curious if that is like the lifter tick issue or means the transmission is going.
94 Mits 3000gt vr-4 stock 112k
new radiator hoses and thermostat!

hey guys i was just wondering if any body could tell me why my ecs button wont work on my 1992 mits 3000 gt sl 3.0L non turbo?? also is it possible that the ecs computer can damage the ecu if not functioning properly

HEllo. Now, I have Yokohama AS 430 P225/55R16 94V Tubeless Radial tires.
Today i had 1 trie flat, also another 3 tires left not too much life...
I don't wanna spend money to buy same 16' size tires, I'd like to get 17 or 18 tires+rims, not more....

But, what size will fit me??? If I will have 17 or 18" rims??? P225 still same size??? 55 ??? R17,18 (of course), index v or z (i know it)

Have question only about index p225/55 .. Give me pls all combination of sets, pls....


Thanks a lot for help....

hey every one i just picked up a 91 gto. it has all of 117000km on it wich would be roughly 70,000miles i think. does any one know the bulb type for the headlights as well as the fogs? i would like to put hids in both.

thanks

Hi everyone, I'm new to forums. But this problem has been kicking my butt, so it's time to ask questions. It's probably a simple issue, but can't figure it out yet. And I refuse to ever go to a dealer.

History,
1995 Mistubishi 3000GT, DOHC, Non Turbo, 80K miles so it was time for some maintenance.

Maintenance
Changed, timing belt, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, belts, etc. No problems. Lined up timing marks on the money. No problems. At least I'm 95% sure of the timing. The only thing I was slightly unsure of was the crankshaft markings. When finished, I cranked the engine over, no spark.

At first I thought I that the crankshaft position sensor wasn't close enough to the crank, but there isn't any adjustment to it. How do you test this sensor? Are there any other ignition system sensors I might have unknowingly disturbed?

Tried hooking up my OBD II reader, but it said it wouldn't link, "Link Error". Is it possible the Computer is bad? That would explain the no spark, but why would the computer go bad by just changing the timing belt and unplugging some sensors, with the battery removed? It shouldn't.... Right? Is there a way to test the computer? Any guidance would be really great.

Hey guys - really need some help here. I have a gto 3000- it has been in storage for 4 years - although it started fine about 2 years ago. Finally got round to pulling it out but wont start. With start spray it tries -and there is sparks - so im thinking a relay or the pump?

When I turn on the ignition I cant here anything from the pump area in the back. so could it be a relay the fuel pump or something else?

I took of the fuel rail and cranked the engine and there is no fuel being pumped out from here - so it definitely a fuel problem. I really would appreciate any help or advice - I live in the UK - by the way its a 97 non turbo.

All the best and hope for your help

Rich.


PS i looked at the pump but cant get it undone - have used wd40 silicone spray penetration oil but it is as tough as old nailss....gulp!

Hello! I new user for this forum, dut need real help. I bought 3 days ago Mitsubishi 3000GT non turbo 1993. I run it 2 days fine, but yesterday night, My fuel tank was empty, and engine shut down, I went to gas station and bring small fuel tank and refill gasoline, after that Engine didn't start. I left my car on parking lot (at my job), early morning, today. I came to my job, bring wires, volt tester, and etc. But, after I turned ignition key, engine started. But!!!!
Engine started for e few minutes, 5-10, and shut down, it was at 8am, next time I started it at 12 and 4pm, but I didn't wait 5-10 minutes, and shut down engine by myself...
Some guys told me, after my fuel tank was empty, fuel pump (grid filter) and fuel filter goes to a dirty, and engine doesn't have enough gasoline, and I need change fuel filter and grid on my fuel pump.... does it right????
Also, fuel filter is brand new, is it possible to make it dirty for a couple minutes with empty fuel tank???

Also, when I checked oil level, it was too much, twice much (previous owner refilled too much oil, and as I saw, He didn't change whole oil, just added some new oil, because stick is dirty).
And some antifreeze too much level too..

What U think about It??? Does it possible to make my new fuel filter to dirty and fuel pump's grid???

What I have to do, just change filters on fuel filter and on fuel pump, or??? Engine doesn't overheat or any kind of problem, coolant is ok, but engine works, like it need tune up, change coil sparks, wires, and reset computer...

But, first, I need help about, what I must do??? It's problem only in filters???

Thanks...

I brought these off ebay, they were a mitsy accessory when new for the GTO these are made from a pink clear plastic and they fitted into the rear quarterlight window and lit up when the the lights were switched on in green neon, these were damaged so I converted them to blue led.
I have also upgraded all my switches to blue leds

hello everybody i am a new owner of a 92 mits 3000 gt sl!!! i just replaced the ecu and got the car running but it is running real crappy.. i do know the gas is over 3 yrs old so i ran it almost out and replenished the fuel tank with fresh 93 octane gas.. the car doesnt want to seem to idle right, some times it runs smooth and after several minutes it almost stalls out and almost dies but then it catches itself usually and smooths back out.. when you put it in gear it usually dies. ive noticed after running it until it gets warm its really difficult to start back up at times as well. at this point of time im not sure what to try and replace or test next. it has new plugs and new ecu. the car has been parked for over 3 yrs and my dad said it was encountering a slight idling prob when it did get parked three years ago so i was just wonderin what to check to get it runnin like a top again