[attachment=9817:dtc_1.JPG]
[attachment=9818:dtc_2.JPG]

To make things a little easier to find when scrolling through threads please try to include certain information if you start a new topic to do a write up.

1 - Start the title with it's appropriate catagory; how to, what to, FAQ, where to, what you need, ETC (see pic below)
2 - if the information is model specific please list it in the topic description; 1g, 2g, 3g, ETC (see pic below)
3 - Don't forget to cite any information that isn't yours.

Hopefully this will help make it easier for people to quickly find what they need.

This section is for how to's, write up's, and threads with FAQ type information. All others should be posted in their appropriate location and will be moved or deleted if necessary.

Discussions are allowed in this section, however, this area will be heavily modded. All posts MUST be on topic. ANY AND ALL OFF TOPIC POSTS WILL BE DELETED. All other board rules also apply in this section.

ALL information must be cited appropriately. If you copied/pasted or quoted another source you must have permission from the author and cite appropriately. Mitsubishi-Forums.com is not responsible for any information that has been pirated.

This will be a great section full of excellent information. With your help it will be the best collection any forum has ever seen.

Thank you for your contributions!

Hi,
How would I go about removing the interior boot/trunk panel on an Eclipse GS? i have water getting into the left side of the car when it rains heavily. I have cleaned out and checked the drainage holes on the car (next to where you fill up the rear window wash) and have confirmed the water is definitely dripping from the trunk lid.

I can see four small holes around the edge of the trunk lid, two either side and two on the bottom. The one on the left which is the same side the water is collecting, appears to be blocked by another piece of metal unlike the one on the right. Im thinking of drilling this but before I do im looking first how to remove the black plastic panel on the inside of the car because the water is dripping from this!

Thanks in advance guys

Hi,

I bought a 1997 Eclipse GS-T in the US.
I need to install a DRL module to pass the RIV inspection. Went to Canadian Tire but all they have in stock in Hamsar 45040 module which is not suited for Mitsubishi.
According to Hamsar website, I need a 45035 module.

Has anyone installed one yet?
Can you give me some pointers on installing it?
Do you place the module under the hood or under the steering wheel?


Thanks!

Marc

I have a tech problem that I have not been able to find an off the shelf solution for. First I have a 1987 Suzuki Samurai with a 99 Vitara 2.0L Coil Over Plug engine. The tach signal from that engine will not drive the stock tach. Sean DeVinney with After Market 4X4 told me that some of you Eclipse guys have been putting later model engines in early bodies and have found a tach adapter that works for the same type of application. Sounds like it might work for my application too. Can someone give me the brand name and part number? Thanks much in advance.

jmk1946

I have a problem with the machine shop of my son lost the keys and you can not find it because the camera and import amiricana Eclipse 2000 16v automatic transmission in 2000, you can help me I am from Sicily
thanks

[font="Arial Black"][b]both engines are the same. I need so expert advice, including detail instructions if they are available. so far both engines look very conpatible. But i am doing the job at my house and i would like to do things right the first time. I wrecked my 1995 rear ending a semi truck going 5 mph. the front end is all screwed up. fortunally I found a 1996 rs for $500 the engine timing belt broke and replaced unfortunatlly when the belt broke the pistons went and smacked the valves and either bent them or cracked one of the pistons. So I was going to pull the motor out of the 96 and replace it with the motor from my 95. can someone please help?

keep in mind i just got this eclipse today and never drove one other then test driving this one a few weeks ago also never owned a automatic so im use to standard.

my automatic gsx eclipse doesnt launch. when flooring throttle it takes it a good 15-20 feet from stop to gain power and launch like id like it to off the starting line or is that normal?

i have seen eclipses on youtube launch and squil all fours. or do i need to rev engine and then throw into drive (automatic newb) or something wrong with my eclipse?

The attached file (html format) contains instructions along with pics of how to cure shifter issues of the 1G models. I found this at dsm.org

Hello my name is Tyler, i go by in_deep. I am new to this. Well I am new to forums anyways. Well this is what is going on, and I need all the help I can get, so any advice at all would be awsome. I live in a small town and I was driving by a place that I always drive by, and for 2 weeks straight there was this family that had a 1998 GS-T Eclipse just sitting there. The body looked really good and it caught my eye for sure. Well after about a month trying to track them down to ask them what they were doing with the car, I made a small investment. Let me explain. The lady that owned it decided to run it with hi oil pressure and it thre the pistons through the engine. Sadly that was good for me to hear. Why? Well because now there is this beautiful car that she has no idea what to do with. So I made a small offer and she took it. No I didn't rip her off, she did some research and came back to me saying she wanted to sale it. So here is what I need help with. First of all money is not an issue but lets not blow things out of porportion. Because the engine is blown I am going to replace it(I will take any suggestions on what engine to put in) since I will have the engine out I am going to convert it into a right-hand side drive. Also it is an automatic and I will be changing it into a manual, I was also thinking about turing it into AWD. Please let me know what you think, and if you have any suggestions. Thanks

were the _ _ck is it can anyone show me please!!?? thnx ed

I own a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse, and have never had any problems with it whatsoever. However, every time I start my car, and put it into drive, when I make my first turn I hear a slight click. It's only once, and only when I start the car, drive, and turn. It doesn't effect the driving of my car at all; just curious why or what would make it do that.

Hi

I have a 1999 Eclipse GS (420A) with a motorized antenna. I would like to manually replace it. I bought the mast and removed the motor from the car, but I am unable to pull the mast out. For reference, I used a Haynes repair manual.

I tried without removing the apparatus from the car first by powering on the radio, waiting for the motor to unwind and then trying to pull out the mast, but it does not budge.

Then I powered everything off and removed the entire thing from the car. I opened the motor casing shell and saw that the sawtooth plastic had separated from the old mast assembly. I removed it from the winding, but I cannot proceed to remove the mast. The person at AutoZone seemed uninterested in helping me. Any help from your experience is greatly appreciated.

In the attached image, I would like to separate part A (mast) from parts B, C and D (the rest of the assembly).


By scribbleink84 at 2009-06-28

Thank you!
NiK

Hi everyone,

Im new to the forum but have a question and thought someone in here could help; I am changing the Shifter Shaft Seal on my 06 Eclipse GT 6speed manual as it is leaking trans fluid.

I have removed the airbox, and removed the shifter linkage; I can see the seal but need to remove the shifter shaft to get at it,

my question is,

how do i remove the shifter shaft and if i do will it go back in?

if someone could give me a few tips that would be great. i am very mechanically inclined but have never worked so close to a transmission. hense the hesitation.

any and all help is much appriciated.

thanks,

MJ

What are some good sites to find parts?

Sites with a Have been proven and tested, and are not going to disappear next month.

Horse Power Freaks - They have parts for just about any car, and the staff there actually can help you with questions. They know more then just the parts they know

Slow Boy Racing - Well known and trusted throughout the entire automotive scene.

Tread Stone Performance - Tested proven turbo applications for various vehicles. Very knowledgeable.

Mach V -

Road Race Engineering - Need some info? Go here.

Buschur Racing - Some people may not like him in the DSM world anymore but he still has A++ products.

Stillen - If you know aftermarket parts, you KNOW stillen.

Extreme PSI Great stuff here

Extreme Motorsports - One of the first 8 second Talons. Enough Said.

Fuel Injector Clinic - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.


Howell Automotive - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Parts Train - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Pro Car Parts - Mostly show parts, but good shipping times and reliable. Need a couple more people to confirm this site, but so far so good

Exile Racing - More closly related to the 3 Gen cars.

Tops Online - All you spyder people who need a new top

Modern Performance

DSM Link Need one? Check them out!

<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>How do I change my fuel pump? What if I stripped the line bolt?</span>

If anyone has ever done this they know how much of a pain in the **** it is. These instructions are for a turbo AWD model but are very similar for the FWD and N/T models as well.

first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Next thing is remove the gas cap. this will depressurize the system do you don't get fuel everywhere when you remove the soft lines.

Remove the back seat using the two tabs in the front. Pull the tabs out while lifting on the seat. It should pop right up.

Next remove the screws on the fuel pump housing cover underneath where the passenger side seat bucket is. Slide the cover down the harness to give yourself enough room.

Before you do anything else you want to try and break loose the hard (high pressure) line. A 14mm line wrench and an 19mm wrench are needed. Attach the 14mm line wrench and the 19mm wrench as shown(I used an adjustable wrench for the 19mm. It's not just any adjustable wrench so be aware you could strip the nut on the soft line)
[attachment=6538:SANY0217.JPG]

Constant pressure will not do the trick. And for turbo models the hard line nut is welded to the line so it will not turn. Non turbo guys I think your nuts are free (haha yea I said it) so they will probably turn. You will have to smack the 18mm wrench counter clock wise to break it free. Again, don't just push, it will strip the hard line nut.

Now, to show you how to break the line free if you happen to strip the hard line nut I have "intentionally" stripped it to show you how to do this

If you have a small bench vise attach it to the hard line as shown.
[attachment=6539:SANY0215.JPG]
Make sure that you tighten it very tight or it will spin and you will bend the crap out of your hard line rendering the entire housing useless. Don't worry you won't crush the nut unless you are some kind of body builder.

Attach your 19mm wrench to the soft line nut and smack it with something like an extended 3/8 inch ratchet. It will take a bunch of hits and you have to hold the vise with your foot or other hand so it doesn't move.
[attachment=6540:SANY0216.JPG]

It is still possible that you may bend the hard line slightly. Don't worry. With your 14mm line wrench still attached pull back on it very slowly until it returns to it's original position.


updates on installed the actual pump into the housing will follow

I will be writing a few guides to help new, and or up and coming Eclipse and Talon owners maintain, modify, and fix their cars.

Basics

Everybody knows buying a used vehicle can be a bit of a chance. Here's a guide to help you take care of and lightly modify your newly purchased Eclipse or Talon.

Maintenance is easily the most important part of owning a vehicle. As bad as you want that new exhaust or stereo, maintenance should always be priority.

As part of maintaining your vehicle, you should change, take care of and/or inspect the following items:

-Change the spark Plugs and wires
-Change the air filter
-Change the oil and filter
-Check the Thermostat
-Coolant flush/new radiator cap
-Flush transmission fluid
-Replace timing belt and others
-Change the fuel filter
-Check clutch and brake fluid
-Inspect brakes and components
-Clean throttle body

If you don't know how your car was treated before you got it, and you don't know what has been replaced in its lifetime I'd suggest completing the entire list. This list is not mandatory, but it will help your car live a long and healthy life, and could save you some money down the road.

Now that you have taken care of maintaining your vehicle, let the modifications begin. If you have decided and set in stone that you would like to modify your vehicle here are a few basic modifications to get you started.

RS/GS/ESI
-Intake
-Header
-Exhaust
-Underdrive pulley

GS-T/GSX
-Open intake filter (also remove waste gate solenoid restriction)
-Exhaust (turbo back for best results)
-Remove blow off valve dump tube (as seen here)
-Better blow off valve. (1g bov, greddy type-s)
-Boost gauge

This is a basic guide to help new members with their Eclipse/Talon.
In the next guide, I will take this guide and go into specifics.

Taken from: http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?...bar+map+numbers posted by SY0237

I cleaned 120k miles of engine waste off the throttle body today.

Here's my method.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED.
13mm socket wrench (prefer ratchet)
size 20 torx screwdriver
PB Blaster (for removing that torx screw, as well as cleaning the throttle body.
toothbrush
rag (lint free cloth for best results)

OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED FOR SAFETY

MOUTH/NOSE MASK. You WILL be very dizzy from the extreme dosage of PB blaster fumes that you will encounter. It is NOT good for your brain cells or lungs.

Latex surgeon's gloves. They sometimes rip and tear, but they offer optimal hand movement while protecting your hands from too much exposure to the PB blaster, and any contaminants in the throttle body.


Start by disconnecting your intake pipe! Disconnect it from the box too and lift it out the engine. Don't forget to pull that hose that goes to the valve cover too.




Before you go disconnecting any bolts, pull on the throttle (open the throttle) fully and disconnect the throttle cable from its groove. Take out the bolt I marked with my chrome socket, and the other bolt is very close to the vacuum line connection on the plenum. You see that open hose? That's the vacuum hose. You can conveniently just pull it off of the valve that sticks out of the throttle body.

BE SURE TO KEEP THE GASKET FROM BETWEEN THE PLENUM AND THROTTLE BODY. If you lose it, buy a new one at AutoZone for 1 dollar. You probably should regardless.


Eww!! What the fack!?


Disonnect the bolt I highlighted, which will take care of all the wires mounted on the bottom. You're almost halfway done now, so turn the thing over carefully and disconnect the two plugs from the throttle body. There is no need to disconnect your battery for this project.


Before cleaning. I used PB Blaster, a toothbrush, and a cloth rag to clean it. I sprayed PB blaster in until it slightly covered the whole throttle plate, let it sit for 2 min, scrubbed the hell out of it with the toothbrush, dumped it, and repeated. I used the rag to wipe away all the grime that was liquified in the process.


After the half hour cleaning.


I hope this helps! (Hope it gets stickied too lol)

I don't know if anyone remembers that far back but newby1gsx was having trouble with his Evo III after he ported the turbine housing. he ended up selling the car and I bought the turbo from him to rebuild it. And now, because i'm bored, you all have to suffer through me posting pics througout the entire process(thanks again Eric!)

This process assumes the turbo needs rebuilt. In this case the turbo was known to not have been primed properly (easy mistake), made a squealing noise under boost, had slight side to side play and slight in and out play.

I won't be showing you how to evaluate whether or not you should rebuild it but if you think it might be time,,,,,,do it. also, I only have 2 hands and the camera took up one of them so don't ask, "you say to use two hands but I only see one?" or, "why is that tool just laying in there?")

Step 1:
taking it apart. Since the turbine housing was already off when it arrived I won't be showing you that part until later. basically I just forgot to take a pic

Step 2:
you need a large set of snap ring pliers for this. remove the snap ring by squeezing the ring with the pliers and lift up lightly on the back side like so...
[attachmentid=8048]

Step 3:
gently (with both hands) seperate the compressor housing from the center cartridge. be careful because if it "pops" off you may bend one of the fins on the compressor wheel
[attachmentid=8049]
it will look like this when you get them apart
[attachmentid=8050]

Step 4: (I only used marker for this step because i'm sending it away to be balanced)
Mark the EXACT location of the compressor wheel, nut, and turbine shaft. usually you would use a small punch and soft hammer to scribe/punch location marks but like I said, I just used marker for an example. Put marks in 3 unevenly spaced locations. Making unevenly spaced marks will ensure that you line everything up the right way. if they are evenly spaced you don't know if the marks are back in their original location.
[attachmentid=8051]
[attachmentid=8052]



more to follow tomorrow, i'm goin golfin bitches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hoping we can start getting these Pinned, so people can start checking these out. I definitely plan to start doing more of these so people can have a video to go along with.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o34aZtSGN34 Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8cqPSVh3Qs...feature=related Part 2

Kudos to Mike for helping out so much...

and forgive my shitty video editing skills.

Jack up the front of the car and get down on the ground next to it. You don't even have to really get under it, look at the passenger/bottom side of the radiator for a white plastic twist plug. Twist it out and the valve below that plug should leak coolant.

If you're lucky like me, it should have a clear silicone tube on the valve it to direct the flow.

You don't have to remove it, just unscrew it, and DON'T do it within 30-45 minutes of running the engine, you WILL burn yourself.

If you can't budge it with your hands, get some pliers and GENTLY squeeze and get it started, then unscrew it by hand. It shouldn't be stuck by any means.

By the way if you're draining your coolant system, you should run some distilled water through it for a minute or two with the drain plug out, to rid your coolant system of any impurities or contamination.

Here's a picture of the drain plug, it should stick out like a sore thumb...especially if that clear hose is there hanging from the valve. The plug faces the back of the car.

I upgraded to a 150 amp output altenator and now need 2 know what gauge wire to use and what wires to upgrade?

Everyone knows there are a ton of parts that can mix and match between cars, mostly 1g and 2g. I finally got around to installing the Evo VIII intercooler I had and i'm absolutely amazed by how well it fit and how easy it was to get on. I've heard they are good for 500hp but don't know for sure, i was just able to get it for $50 so I put it on

I wish I would have taken pics during the install but I have some from the finished product that I will post tomorrow with a write up on how I got it on.

BUT....the whole reason i'm writing this is because a while back there was a thread that half way through we started listing parts that could mix and match between DSM's and I would like to make it a complete list with install instructions. I just can't find it so if someone knows where its at please post a link

thanks

Ok, With the increase in questions reaguarding the 1.8L recently, I felt it was in the forum's best interest to have a 1.8L FAQ (We have one for ever other engine, why not this one?) I am going to try to go as detailed in this as possible.

I am going to start this off with what seems to be the most popular question regaurding the 4G37 (1.8L) engine.


To be blunt, there is really only one option to make this engine fast. Turbo. Now mind you, this option is NOT for the faint of heart. It requires A LOT of custom work, researching, time, and most of all, cursing. I will go into more detail with this in another section but for now, let me give you some links to basic bolt-ons that will help a little (And I stress the term "little".)

A.) Cat-back Exhaust System - The building block for all performance on any car. The very first performance mod you should do. We have all heard of this in one way or another. Weather it's driving down the street only to hear the cry of a "pissed off bumblebee", or learning about it in your college's Thermodynamics course. Whatever the reason, you NEED this no matter what your goals are. However, with this said, the type of exhaust you choose will vary depending on your goals and setup choice. The first thing you are going to need is a performance muffler. There is a WIDE variety of these out here, but how do you know which ones actually work? Well, to answer your question, There aren't many. The ones that are pretty popular in the DSM scene tend to be as follows: Magnaflow, Megan Racing, Apexi N1, HKS Ti, Tsudo and off the top of my head that about covers it. I am sure there are more, but the best advice I can give you is simply try to stay away from knock-offs, whether it be from Ebay or elsewhere. The next exhaust piece you are going to want is a high-flow cat (Catalytic Converter.) Again, there are many, many brands of these but the two that people tend to trust most are Magnaflow, and Megan Racing. Both are relatively cheap (around 100 USD.) The last piece of the cat-back system is the piping. This piece (or pieces if you will) is a VERY touchy subject. The size of pipe you want/need is COMPLETELY dependent on your goals and setup. To simplify things for the sake of this write-up, I will give you two choices. If you plan on staying Naturally aspirated (Non-turbo for the acronym challenged), then I highly suggest going with 2.5" piping. Any more and you will be loosing a lot of back pressure. You need this. If you are going turbo, the I would suggest 3", but if you don't plan on much power, then 2.5" is fine.

Exhaust Manifold (Header) - Ok, before I go into this I want to make something clear. It is NOT headers!! a 4 cylinder car only has ONE manifold, thus it is called a HEADER!! I get VERY upset when people say this wrong. Why? I have no idea. At any rate, it is far more politically correct to say Exhaust manifold or, simply, manifold anyway, so please do us all a favor and try to expand your vocabulary pallet and use this term instead. Now that my rant is finished, on to the point at hand. After much searching and research I have come to a rather unfortunate conclusion. There are none worth buying. Your best bet as to getting a manifold that actually does something besides make your engine bay look like 50Cent's teeth, is to have one custom made. The best design for our motors is, hands-down, a tubular design. Just find an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend pipe and have them make you a tubular manifold using 1.5" pipe for runners. Don't ask me for a price, since it will be different with each shop.

C) Intake OK. First a little lesson in the types of intakes. There are two major types, short ram intakes (SRI) and cold air intakes (CAI). Theoretically the latter of the two SHOULD make more power due to the fact that colder air yields to better combustion, however the reality of this subject is not too compliant with theory. In small engines it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter. THE BEST intake I have found for the 4G37 is made by a company called Cosmo Racing. It only costs 99.75 USD + shipping and fits nicely.
http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=131&pid=394

D) Spark Plugs - NGK. 'Nuff said. Go to your local parts store and pick up a set. Not too expensive. Also, the only ones that are available pre-gapped are the BRP6ES-11's, however, if you wish to go colder there are some BRP7ES-11's from other motors that will fit, but they will require you to gap them yourself, however, that is rather easy.

E) Spark plug wires - http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanc...park_Plug_Wires
Magnecore 8.5mm. best out there.

That about covers bolt-ons. I know it isn't much, but do you see now why your only real choice is to boost?

The next part off this section is internal mods. These are probably the hardest mods to do if you do them yourself, however, they are crucial for a turbo build, and will give you some decent gains in a N/A build.

A) Bore - The factory bore of the 4G37 is 80.5942mm (80.6mm), if you bore this out a bit, you can force some extra ponies out of your block. the MAX I would bore it out is .060 over but even that is pushing it. Any more than that and you will be seeing coolant jackets. With my setup I will be boring it .040 over. That seems to be a safe bore while still throwing some nice numbers.

Forged Pistons - There really are no forged pistons for the 1.8L. However, there are a couple options. Ross and Weisco are both reputable names in the DSM world and both of them are so gracious as to offer a custom piston option. If you give them the specs you want they will fab them up and send them to your door for the small fee of 495 USD. Go ahead, send them a thank you e-mail. You know you want to. Before you go ordering though, I should probably inform you on what you are looking for. If you are going N/A you want some higher compression pistons. If I was truly building a Solid N/A motor and had absolutely NO plans to EVER go turbo, I would probably go with 10:1 or 11:1 pistons. This will allow for lesser volumetric efficiency and net some decent hp and torque gains. Also note that if you decided to bore your cylinders then you will need to take that into account when ordering. If you plan on going turbo, best bet is anywhere form 8:1 to 9:1. The higher the compression ration, the more power will be output, however, the higher comp ratio, the harder it is to tune and the mores tress is put on your internals. I am personally going 9:1 on my build.

C) Stroke - No, this is not what your grandfather suffers after being scared, this is the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The factory stroke of the 4G37 is 86mm. Aside from a custom made crankshaft (Since there are none available for the 4G37) there is really no way of changing this.

D) Connecting Rods - The 4G37 rods are actually [pretty strong. from the factory, the rods are siad to support 300whp, however, if you still want to upgrade, the only real option is to have them custom made. Pauter does some very nice custom rods, but they are rather expensive (~850 USD). Unless you are goin all out and not leaving a single component untouched, there is no reason that the factory rods won't suffice, however, even if you decide upon this option, I would still reccomend getting some new Eagle OEM spec rods. You never know how much life is actually left on your stock rods.

E) Camshaft - http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...mitsu-cams.html Schneider is the ONLY company that makes camshafts for the 4G37, and event hese are simply regrinds. Since, ideally, when it comes to cams you want some that will work all the way to the red line plus a little over the red line, the best option they have is the 3000-7000rpm option. However, this really depends on your personal preference.

F) Valves/Valve Springs/Retainers - Whenever you go with a different grind cam, it is standard practice to upgrade your valves, springs, and retainers, as well. To my knowledge there are no aftermarket valvetrain components other than camshafts that are supplied for the 4g37, so your only option here is to go custom... again. There are three different materials used in these components:
I) Titanium - This is the best, hands down, however, it is also the most expensive. Thes eare VERY lightweight, thus allowing you to safely rev much higher than you would be able to with other materials.
II) Stainless Steel (SS) - SS is VERY durable, and least prone to breaking, however, because they are SS, they are rather ehavy compared to other materials, thus limiting your rev capabilities.
III) Steel - This is what most factory components are made from. it is not as lightweight as titanium, but at the same time it is not as heavy as SS, however, it is also the least durable of all materials.

G) Port/Polished Head - Since, from the factory, the VE of the 4G37 is only 78% (compared to the 4G63's ~89%), your main focus should be getting this as close to $100 as possible. Something that REALLY helps is porting and polishing hte head. the factory size of the intake/exhaust passages of the 4G37's head is 1.25". Most enthusiasts choose to port them out to 1.5" for increased airflow. I will be going this size with my build, as well.

H) Knife-Edged Crankshaft - Since odds are your motor has many miles on it, when rebuilding the motor, you should MAKE SURE to have your crankshaft knife-edged. this will smooth out all of the nicks and scratches on it and make it flawless again, which will help performance a bit and keep your motor running nicely. More of a maintenance mod than a performance mod.

I) Head Studs - A common practice on ANY built motor is to replace the factory head bolts with aftermarket head studs. Most of you are probabl;y asking, "WTF is the difference?", well the difference is this, when you torque down head bolts they expand, thus rendering them usless if you ever remove the head again, meaning you will have to buy new ones. Head studs are stronger and do not expand upon torquing, meaning they will last you forever. The best brand out there is ARP. However, no brands make them for the 4G37, let alone one as prestigious as ARP. There is, however, an alternative. If you drill/tap the holes on the head/block to accomodate for the size of the ARP head studs for the 4G63, you can use them.



I bid you farewell for now, since I have loads of homework to do and it's currently 9PM, however, in my next installment I will cover the turbo build!


EDIT: I fixed a few obvious grammatical errors and typos.

This is pretty self explanatory, but I felt that it may be a good idea to do a quick write-up just in case. I did not take any pics, however, because this is a very easy and strait-forward procedure.

Required Tools:
-Some kind of tape (I used scotch)
-Sharpie (Any Color)
-Small #2 Screwdriver (#1 will also work if that is all you have)

Optional Tools:
-Flashlight (REALLY helps)




Pre-Removal Preparation:
1) Wrap a piece of tape around each plug wire

2) Using the sharpie, label each piece of tape with the order of which they connect tot he distributor. Top = 1 bottom = 2 and you determine 3 and 4 by traveling clockwise around the distributor (Firing Order: 1324)

Dis assembly:
1) After the wires are properly labeled, remove the wires from the distributor cap and set them aside (Do not remove them from the spark plugs unless you are also replacing the wires, in which case you should note which cylinder connects to which protrusion on the distributor cap.)

2) Using the #2 (Or #1) Screwdriver, remove the two retaining screws from the distributor cap. the bottom screw is hard to get to and even harder to see, but if you use a flashlight it makes things a lot easier.

3) Remove the distributor cap and inspect it for flaws. Make sure the terminals are not charred or erroded and make sure that the rotor button is not worn or damaged. Also, make sure there are no cracks or carbon tracks.

4) Remove the rotor from the distributor shaft (It just pulls off) and inspect if for flaws. Make sure the rotor tip is not corroded or damaged, and make sure there is sufficient spring tension. Also, inspect the rotor for any cracks.

6) If any of the mentioned damages/flaws are noted, replace the cap and/or rotor. If not, then proceed to reassemble everything.

Replacement/Reassembly:
1) Place the rotor on the distributor shaft (It should only go on one way and also should go on rather easily. Do not force it.)

2) place the distributor cap onto the distributor and finger tighten the two retaining screws.

3) Using the #2 (Or #1) screwdriver, tighten the screws, but do NOT over tighten them. Doing so can cause cracks in the distributor cap.

4) Connect the wires in the proper order (They should be labeled if you followed this guide.)


That's it. Easy as cake, right?

The cap and rotor should be replaced every time you change the spark plugs as regular maintenance.

Happy Tuning!


-The rights to this guide belong exclusively to Jonathan Bonazza (Jonbonazza), and the improperly cited copy or unauthorized distribution of this document is punishable by law.

Ok, I didn't really see a post that pertained to the common oil leaks for these cars are. i know a few and have experienced a few. Here is what I know, guys, feel free to add to it!

2g non-turbo: oil appearing down either/both back corners of the block = headgasket

2g Turbo/all 1g: oil leaking from behind exhaust mani, sometimes may squirt oil onto exhaust mani causing a fire = Head gasket (that was me, but no fire, thank god)

This is pretty easy to do, but I thought I would post it anyway, since I have seen some people talk about it, but nobody ever mention how to do it, or any details.

OIL PAN GASKET RESEAL

I had a leak on my oil pan, and decided to finally drop the pan and reseal it. My Chiltons had a good description on how to do it (it is pretty easy to do anyway), so if you are not sure, check your repair manual.
Things you will need (In my opinion):
Good set of hand tools
Floor jack, and jack stands (I used a set of ramps that raised up the car, no jacks/jack stands needed)
Ultra Black RTV
Engine Support (The kind that goes across the top, and supports the engine via chains)
5 quarts of your preferred oil (I use Valvoline Max Life, cause my Eclipse has 157,000 miles on it)
Oil filter of your choice (I like the Mobile 1 myself)
Dead blow hammer

First, I removed the exhaust manifold heat shields, both top, and bottom, to be able to access the two exhaust bolts (I suppose you could do this without removing them, but, I wanted full access to the bolts, for ease of removal).
Next, disconnect the exhaust from the exhaust manifold. If you want, you can remove that entire exhaust section, if you want this project to be REALLY easy. I just disconnected it enough to move it around as needed. There is a gasket there so, you may want to replace it, or if it is in good enough condition, you can reuse it (I reused mine, since I didn't want to go down to the parts store and get another one. I IZ LAZY)
Support the engine with the engine support. You will need to do this because of the next step.
Now you have to remove the cross member on the bottom of the car, that runs from bottom of the radiator support, to just in back of the engine. There is a motor mount on this cross member which you have to unbolt, hence the engine support bar on the top of the car that you are using.
Next, there is a bracket that I am not sure as to its function (it seems to help secure the engine to the transmission) that you need to remove to have 100% access to the oil pan bolts.
By the way, make sure you DRAIN THE OIL FIRST!!!
Now, you can begin removing the oil pan bolts. After you remove them, the pan may still want to stick to the block. This is normal, so don't worry. My pan was leaking a bit, hence it was already a bit loose. If it sticks, use the dead blow hammer to smack on the oil pan to loosen it.
Once it drops, try not to dump it. Even though you drained the oil, there is still going to be a bit of oil in it.
After you get it down, you may have one of two types of seals to deal with:
1) Silicone metal gasket
2) RTV silicone

Mine had a silicone metal gasket. I was actually expecting there to be no gasket, so this was a bit of a surprise. The mechanics I had talked to, said that there was no gasket, and that RTV silicone was used to for the seal. I am not sure as to if this varies on some 420A motors or not.
Anyway, I did not have a replacement gasket, and since the original gasket was in good shape, I decided to reuse it, along with RTV silicone as well.
If your pan has only RTV silicone on it, use a gasket scraper or razor blade, to clean off all the old silicone. When I do this, I scrape off all the old silicone, and then scrub the remaining surface with red scotch brite and carb cleaner.
No matter what type of gasket you have, I recommend cleaning the mating surface with carb cleaner, to get all the oil off, to make sure you have a GOOD new seal. I also cleaned the silicone metal gasket with carb clean.
After letting the carb clean dry off, I ran a small bead of Ultra Black RTV silicone around the entire gasket (on the side that mates to the oil pan). Place that side on the oil pan, and make sure ALL THE HOLES are perfectly lined up. Next, run another small bead around the other side of the gasket, and let the whole thing cure for about 20 minutes.
Once that is ready, take the pan, with the gasket on top of it, and bolt it back up to the block.
I can't remember the torque specs for the oil pan bolts (check in a Chiltons/Haynes manual), but be VERY CAREFULL. The bolts can very easily strip!
After that, simply put everything back together, making sure you put in the oil pan plug, and the oil filter (My dumb ass almost forgot to put that stuff back on).
Once you have everything back together, remove the engine support brace, fill with oil, and start. I let mine idle for about ten minutes, checking to make sure there were no leaks.
So, everything was fine, no leaks.
Hope that helps.

step 1 - fill your gas tank
step 2 - reset your trip odometer or write down your odometer reading
step 3 - drive your car until you reach 1/8 tank left
step 4 - fill your gas tank again
step 5 - write down how many gallons you put in to two decimal places (IE 10.62 gallons)
step 6 - read your trip odometer or subtract the old mileage from the new mileage (IE 410 miles)
step 7 - take the mileage and divide it by the number of gallons (IE 410 miles divided by 10.62 gallons = 38.6)

that number is your gas mileage - 38.6 miles per gallon (wouldn't that be nice )

How to make your stock seats more supportive

thanks to swnkylaxplyr for the write up

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=220525

<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>420a turbo build / What do I need?</span> -- WRITTEN BY PWEE05
Please see post from “red97gst” A/F Ratios, Boost Pressure, Combustion

I want to start by saying building an engine is almost like ordering a hamburger. Everyone likes something different and your build should reflect that. If you do decide to build you have complete freedom to build EXACTLY what YOU want.
(excluding California R.I.P.)

The 420a (A588) engine is a Chrysler made engine. Good news: Chrysler has been turbo charging cars for over 20 years. Unbelievably started from the K-car platform, don’t laugh, http://www.allpar.com/eek/k/k.html and there is a video floating around of a Dodge Caravan AWD destroying a Camaro SS at the track running a 12.96! Definitely one of the funniest, and most shocking things I’ve ever seen (Soccer Mom meets V8 racer AND WINS!!!). So don’t worry we can make your 420 scream. Bad news: besides oil leaks, you have to spend some money.

The eclipse 420a is very similar and is in some dodge models of the same years with only slight differences. The head is reversed (compared to neons), but building internally will be the same and you can even search for neon, avenger, or sebring parts if you can’t find any for an n/t eclipse. Never hurts to cheat, but make sure they are correct before purchasing.

There is a long list of what you will need for more power but don’t fear, you can turbo a stock 420 car, do so cautiously (I will get into that later). If you look at the below pictures you can clearly see a difference between the connecting rods. The picture to the left is a piston and rod assembly for a stock 420 engine. The other is an aftermarket Eagle made rod which can support over 300hp. The stock rods, obviously, can not take much of a beating and must be replaced if you want higher hp numbers.
[attachment=3966:stock_pi..._and_rod.jpg] [attachment=3967:h_beam_rods.jpg] [attachment=3968:piston.jpg] [attachment=3969:high_comp_piston.jpg]

If you take a look at the first piston picture you can see that it has a “dish” in it. This is to reduce compression. The second is a high compression piston for a different engine that is only here to give a comparison. The stock 420 engine has a compression ratio of 9.6:1. A stock turbo car will be somewhere around 8.3/8.5:1 compression. Under boost periods cylinder pressures will increase because you are forcing air and fuel into the cylinder, thus the need for pistons providing a lower beginning compression ratio. Stronger metal composition doesn’t hurt either.

With turbo applications you do not necessarily need an intercooler if you are scrounging for money. HOWEVER, without an intercooler you MUST keep the mixture rich and low boost to keep from predetonation. THIS WILL DESTROY YOUR ENGINE!!!!!! It's a hard thing to avoid without an intercooler so lets just say, you need one.

Another thing that some shops do with turbo builds is allow a little bit more space between the piston and the cylinder wall than is normal. This will let the piston safely expand under boost periods, caused by increased heat. I am mentioning this because sometimes you can hear the piston “slap” against the cylinder walls and it may be interpreted as something else.

On to a list of things you should do to build your 420 for pressure. This does not include machining of the block/head and/or labor:
Stronger connecting rods------------------------Air fuel controller (AFC) or some other type of tuning device
Stronger pistons and rings-----------------------Larger fuel injectors
Metal head gasket---------------------------------Larger fuel pump
ARP head studs can’t hurt------------------------High flow exhaust
- (for a lower hp build you can use bolts)-------Fuel management unit (FMU) a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator is best(AFPR)
Turbo charger--------------------------------------Turbo manifold to fit your turbo
Oil lines---------------------------------------------Coolant lines depending on your turbo
Down pipe or O2 housing-------------------------Wastegate if not internal
Blow off valve (BOV)------------------------------Boost gauge
Boost controller------------------------------------MAP sensor check valve (missing link)
(if higher boost is desired)
new rod and main bearings
Suggestions
Upgraded ignition system-------------------------Vacuum line
Light weight crank pulley-------------------------Copper 110 exhaust gaskets
new oil pump--------------------------------------new O2 sensors
turbo timer ----------------------------------------new water pump
timing belt, pulleys, tensioner--------------------new seals
Intercooler-----------------------------------------Charge pipes

To give a comparison this is what I have in my engine.
JE 8.6:1 pistons and rings-------------------Eagle Rods
Clevitte main and rod bearings-------------ARP main studs
ARP head bolts-------------------------------Felpro head gasket and seals
Melling oil pump------------------------------Stage V port and polish
crane stainless valve springs----------------Crane titanium retainers
Accel 30lb/hour fuel injectors----------------Prothane engine and trans mount bushings
Walbro 255lph fuel pump---------------------FMU
Apexi AFCII-----------------------------------Screaming deamin coil pack
Crane firewire spark plug wires------------Ac delco double platinum spark plugs
ported stock intake manifold------------------------Treadstone cast turbo manifold
Knock off BOV----------------------------------XO2 22x12x3 bar and plate intercooler
Missing link MAP-----------------------------AEM UEGO wideband
Crane camshafts - Intake Duration 250@006 Lift .374 inch, Exhaust Duration 250@006 Lift .374 inch
Removed air conditioning & power steering (by choice, not necessary)
Garrett t3 super 60 (35lb/min) turbo (fast spooler)
My own welded and fabbed charge pipes using stainless exhaust pipe
And of course I replaced all of the preventive things I mentioned earlier.

I built this way because I like the sound of a very rough, loping idle and using the very efficient eclipse suspension for tearing up turns. I wanted a turbo that would spool quickly out of turns and power to fly away down straight aways. I will, for now, not be going over 250whp.

Now, I promised you I would get into turbo charging a stock 420. This is treading thin ice but you can do it. Low pressures and low volume turbos are key. You still need to upgrade your fuel and exhaust system:
Fuel pump-----------------------------Injectors
AFC------------------------------------FMU
Missing link----------------------------High flow exhaust
BOV------------------------------------Wastegate if not internal
Manifold--------------------------------Turbo
O2 housing and/or downpipe---------Boost controller
Charge pipe----------------------------Oil and possibly coolant lines

The turbo can be 14b, t25, SMALL 16g, gt 28 will work fine but please keep the boost under 8psi. You can’t get over 225whp (guesstimate) for very long on a stock engine without a big BOOM. This gets back to the weak rods and compression set up for an engine supposed to only see natural aspiration.

Always watch your exhaust gas temps (EGT’s) and if you have the luxury of a 4-lead O2 sensor keep an eye on that too. If it reads below .92 volts you are getting too lean. A dyno and an AEM UEGO Wideband O2 is the best way to tune, but you can do it with a long stretch of highway, a heavy foot and voltmeter. WATCH FOR COPS!!!

If you are wondering about costs, this could take all day because of the variety of places offering parts and services. Let’s just say that the total amount I have in the engine and turbo set up I could buy a small island. (around $5k but you can get away with around $2500.00 if you stay stock) If you ask me, “was worth it?” I would tell you definitely.

To touch briefly on bolt-ons, if you buy out the entire stock of all bolt-ons available for this engine you will only increase to “a noticeable difference.” It is a good place to start learning though.

The sky is the limit but make sure you know what you are doing, and if you don’t just ask for help like I did. Slowboy racing put my bottom end together, ported and polished my head and has taught me so much, but I still don’t know everything. Everyone has to start somewhere and if I missed something please don’t hesitate to correct.

--The above article was written by pwee05


*****THE FOLLOWING QUOTES WERE PULLED FROM THE ORIGINAL TOPIC "420a Turbo Build"*****

Please add parts or correct my list. I want to make this the best possible.

this is also taking in to consideration the engine is NOT built and everything will remain in OEM form. Basically if we were to take a 1g or 2g and not buy anything aftermarket but just swap parts between them and other cars what would the parts be that we would need.

2g MAF (1g)
1g NT throttle body (upgrade for both)
2g throttle body elbow (1g)
1g turbo throttle body (2g)
1g td05 14b turbo with the 7cm2 housing (both if the 1g still has the 6cm2 housing)
6-bolt N/A block (1gb 2g)
6-bolt rods (2g with machining and oversized bearings)
7-bolt pistons (6-boltcars)
6-bolt 5-speed cams (7-bolt cars, 6-bolt auto cars, 1g n/t)
1g head (2g)
1g intake manifold (assuming the 2g has done a 1g head swap)
2g ported turbo manifold, or Evo III manifold (1g, 2g for evo mani)
2g ported o2 housing, or Evo III o2 housing (1g, 2g for evo o2 with custom downpipe)
2g FPR (1g)
toyota supra fuel pump, year?(both?)
RX7 FD3S 550cc primary injectors (both)
Supra mark 4 sidemount intercooler (2g with flipped end tank)
Evo injectors 550-570cc (both)
Evo 8/9 BOV (2g)
Evo 8/9 fuel pump(both)
Evo 8 FMIC (2g)
1g external oil cooler. also rumored starion and conquest coolers (1g without, 2g)

Thanks to 46g3attack, jonbonazza and lilmoes4g63 for contributing

keep adding on, this list is getting good

How to Fix a Leaking Spyder Top

this assumes that the top hasn't been damaged and is leaking because the material is soaking up the water. originally posted by ryan82273

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=217769

Tuning Guide for the A'PEXi SAFC and SAFC-II

Contributed by: Blak94GSX (Scot Gray)

This is a mini-FAQ for how to tune an AFC. The preferred method is to use a datalogger, but a method using some kind of O2 sensor voltage display is also provided.
Basic tuning theory



Basic tuning theory

The factory Engine Control Unit (ECU) employs a narrowband Oxygen sensor to check the results of a closed-loop fuel ratio control process. The ECU comes with fuel maps that are based on the input from several engine sensors: The Intake Air Temperature sensor, Barometric Pressure sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, and Knock/Detonation sensor. The details could fill a large book, but the easiest way to think of it is that once the engine is at a normal operating temperature, the Fuel Injectors are opened for a certain amount of time, which is determined mainly from the Airflow reading. DSMs use a Karman Vortex style of Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) that the air filter assembly attaches to directly. It is important to note that the airflow value is determined BEFORE the air is pressurized by the turbo, and that any air leaks in the piping between the MAF and the throttle-body will skew the airflow reading. A leak before the turbo will result in the ECU getting a smaller airflow reading than it should, and a leak after the turbo will result in the ECU getting a larger airflow reading.

The ECU operates in two modes. The first mode referred to as "Closed-Loop" is what the ECU uses for part throttle and cruising operation. In closed-loop operation the ECU cycles the air fuel ratio between a little rich and a little lean using the Oxygen Sensor Feedback Trim as shown on a datalogger. In this mode the actual Oxygen Sensor Voltage is unimportant, but the fact that it is cycling up and down is useful since it means the ECU is operating in closed-loop properly, allowing the ECU to fine-tune the Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR).

The second mode of operation is called "Open-Loop" and is used mainly at full throttle or whenever the engine RPM is over 4500. The ECU also uses Open-Loop if the fuel trims are out of range (I.E. you don't have it tuned right). In this mode the ECU adds fuel based on a direct lookup of the airflow on a fuel map. No fuel trims are used to adjust the base maps in this mode. The oxygen sensor voltage output will be fairly constant in this mode and can be used to determine whether the AFR is rich or lean. In short, if the O2 voltage is cycling up and down several times a second then it is in Closed-Loop, and if the O2 voltage is steady then it is in Open-Loop.

The fuel trims are adjusted by the ECU automatically to provide the "proper" AFR during all cruising/part throttle situations. This process works very well and the stock ECU is able to compensate for most sensor calibration problems. The ECU cannot compensate for larger injectors, or a crazy big fuel pump, or a modified MAF, this is where the AFC becomes useful.

How the SAFC Works

The AFC is a simple device that alters the airflow signal that the ECU reads. The AFC sits between the airflow sensor (MAF) and the ECU, and works similar to an EQ for a stereo. The AFC adjusts the airflow value that the ECU reads up, or down based on RPM, and switches between a LO and HI adjustment map based on throttle position.

The MAF changes the frequency of the output signal based on airflow, so the more airflow the higher the frequency. The AFC takes the frequency input from the MAF, looks at the engine RPM, then looks at what the setting is on the AFC for that RPM. Since the AFC has a limited number of RPM points, the AFC interpolates the values when between two RPM points. So if the 4000 RPM setting is +15% and the 5000 RPM setting is +12%, and the engine is running at 4500 RPM then the AFC would adjust the frequency that the ECU sees by averaging the two values. In this case it would be (15 + 12) / 2 = +13.5%.

There are two maps on the AFC. One is called the LO map and the other the HI map. Which map it uses is determined by the throttle position. When the AFC is initially set up, the throttle position for the LO and HI map is configured. The default is something like 30/60. This means the LO map values will be used exclusively from 0-30% throttle, then it will interpolate values between the LO and HI maps from 31-59%, then use the HI map exclusively from 60-100% throttle position. For a DSM application, it is easier to tune if the maps are either on or off, instead of mixing the values between them. Set the Th-Point to 69/70 so it uses the LO map up to 69% throttle and then goes to full HI map beyond that. This separates the maps into closed loop and open loop maps, making it easier to tune.

Initial SAFC Setup

A few installation tips first. Be sure to use the Pink and Orange wires for the airflow signal wires, and NOT the Yellow and White wires. The AFC is a universal device and is setup to handle both Speed-Density and Mass-Airflow type systems. The Pink and Orange wires are for Mass-Airflow systems like Mitsubishis.

In the Setting Menu, set the Th-Point to 69 for Lo and 70 for Hi. Set the Ne-Point so the RPM points are 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4500, 5000, 6000, 7000 for stock rev limiter, or 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000 for raised rev limiter.

Setup tips provided by Mike Welch at Road Race Engineering

In the Etc Menu, set the Sensor Type to "Karman" for a DSM. The Car Select should be set to Cyl 4 with the Thr arrow pointing up meaning a rising rate throttle position sensor. Set the GRPH Scale to 30, Initialize will reset everything to factory defaults so it should be set to No.


1. Monitor

For monitoring gauge functions, we like the following settings:

1 Gauge RPM
2 Gauges RPM and Karman
3 Gauges RPM, Karman and Correction
4 Gauges RPM, Karman, Correction and Throttle Position

You will not be able to see any values for "Air Flow" or "Pressure". Why? Because you don't have an air flow meter or a pressure sensor to monitor. These are for other cars. If you push briefly both "Prev." and "Next" at the same time, you jump from which ever screen that you are on in Monitor to the last screen you were in on Setting. It allows you to jump directly from monitoring throttle position and RPM directly to the Lo-thrtl setting menu for adjustment. When on the Lo-thrtl menu, push "Next" to jump to Hi-thrtl. By pushing "Next" you can jump back and forth between Hi and Lo.

2. "Blue Wire Mod"

This allows you to read Oxygen Sensor Voltage on the AFC display. On the wire harness for the AFC there are three wires that normally not used on an Eclipse. These are White, Yellow and Blue. The Blue wire is meant for the second Air Flow Meter on a Nissan 300ZX. You will connect this wire to the O2 sensor wire right at the ECU. See the Jumptronix Install instructions for info on where to get the O2 sensor signal. To read the O2 sensor voltage, scroll down to and select the "etc." menu. Select the "Sensor Check". Of the three readings, O2 voltage will be the middle one (#2)

3. Common Problems:

RPM Signal off by half (1G)

* Because of the way that Mitsubishi triggers the ignition coils, this is normal. To fix it, just set the Cylinders to "2"

Car runs like crap, wont rev past 2-3K rpm, No change in the Hz reading on the Karman display

* You read the wrong section in the manual and chose the yellow and white wires to modify the airflow signal. Wrong, you should have used the pink and orange wires.
* You have a bad connection on either the pink or orange wire.
* You have the pink and orange wires reversed.
* You didn't select "Karman" for the air flow meter type.

No display or other power problems

* You have been swinging the AFC around by the wire harness. This will pull the harness out of its internal socket. To check it or fix it, carefully unscrew the back cover with the proper small size Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the little connectors are plugged in all the way.


Actually tuning the thing

So hopefully at this point the AFC is installed and the car starts up and at least sort of runs. The first thing to do is to figure out where to start. The main factors are the type of Airflow sensor and the injector size. If the injectors aren't the factory size, first determine the difference in the size of the injectors between the upgraded injectors and the original injectors. The original injectors will be 450cc for 1G and 2G turbo models, and 380cc for 1G automatic turbos. If you upgraded from 450cc to 660c injectors for example, take 450 / 660 and it works out to roughly 30% bigger than the stock injectors. If the MAF is stock then you just need to worry about the injector sizing. If the car is a 1G with a 2G MAF, the MAF alone will read about 20% leaner than the stock MAF, add the Injector sizing and MAF differences together and those are the starting points on the AFC. For example, a 2G with stock MAF and 550cc injectors would set the AFC to -18% from 1000-4000 RPM to start. A 1G with a 2G MAF and 660cc injectors would use -30% for the injectors and +20% for the 2G MAF, so that works out to -10 on the AFC from 1000-4000 to start.

Start the engine and let it warm up to full operating temperature. Turn off the motor and reset the ECU by pulling the fuse for 10 seconds. This is accomplished by pulling up on the yellow fuse holder in the fuse block by the BOV on 2Gs, or by removing the lower-right corner fuse labeled ROOM on 1Gs. This will clear the fuel trims that the ECU is currently set with.

Tuning without a Datalogger

Life is much easier with a datalogger, but not everyone has one. To tune right the car will need some way to view O2 sensor voltage (see Blue Wire info above), and an Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge with the probe preferably mounted somewhere in the #1 or #2 exhaust runner. For the LO map, start at idle with the engine fully warmed up, and set 1000 RPM until the O2 voltage is cycling up and down and not holding a fixed value. Usually the O2 voltage will be switching back and forth between .3 and .7 volt. This as discussed above is referred to as Closed Loop operation. Once the O2 voltage is cycling, reduce the AFC setting until it stops cycling, then increase the setting until it starts cycling again, then add another 2 clicks on the AFC setting. With the Idle now set, cruise at a constant low throttle for each of the remaining RPM points and do the same. Cruise along at 2000 RPM until the O2s are cycling, then lean it out until the O2s stop cycling, then add fuel again until it starts cycling and then go another 2 clicks up. Do this for 2000-4000 RPM. With the cruising area set, take the 4000 RPM value and use that for 5000+, all on the LO map.

For the HI map, copy all of the settings from the LO map over so the HI map is set the same from 1000+. With the boost set at a conservative level, around 10-13PSI, do 3rd gear pulls from 3000-7000 RPM until the O2 voltage is pretty even at a constant value. The value should be .85-.88 for 1G pistons, and .92-.94 for 2G pistons. Watch the EGT gauge and let off the throttle if it exceeds 900C. Adjust the AFC as needed until the O2 voltage is in the ballpark and the EGTs are staying under 900C. This is the baseline setting and you can adjust up or down from there based on best judgment.

Tuning with a Datalogger

Set the logger to monitor RPM, Timing, Knock Sum, O2 Voltage, Lo Med and Hi Fuel Trims, and O2 Feedback trim, Throttle Position, plus whatever else you like. With the engine fully warmed up and the ECU recently reset, set the Idle 1000 RPM on the LO map until the O2 Feedback trim is averaging in the middle of the scale. While cruising around at part throttle, hold the RPM steady at each set point on the AFC from 2000-4000 and do the same until each of the RPM points have the O2 Feedback trim averaging in the middle of the scale. Pay attention to the Fuel Trims and if they are adjusting then compensate with the AFC. If the Fuel Trims are going leaner, then reduce the setting on the AFC and vice versa. The goal is to have the O2 Feedback trim averaging in the middle of the scale while in closed loop operation, and have the Fuel Trims right in the middle of the scale or slightly positive. Try to avoid having the Fuel Trims in the negative part of the range since that means the AFC is set too rich. Once the baseline settings are done, monitor the Fuel Trims over the next few days without making changes to the AFC and see where the Fuel Trims wind up. If they are within +30% of the middle of the scale then that is close enough. Set the 4000+ RPM range the same as 4000 for the rest of the LO map.

For the HI map, copy over the settings from the LO map to start with. Ideally the car will have an EGT gauge for reference purposes. This is not to exceed 900C while tuning. Let off the throttle should the EGTs get too high or the Knock Sum gets really high on the logger. With the boost set at a conservative value in the 10-13PSI range, make 3rd gear pulls from 2000-7000 RPM until the O2 voltage is in the .85-.88 range for 1G pistons or .92-.94 range for 2G pistons. Adjust the AFC until the O2 voltage is even across the whole RPM range at full throttle, and within the proper voltage range. Pay attention to the knock sum value and if it is high, try adjusting the AFC settings higher and see if that reduces the knock sum.

After the baseline values are set for both the LO and HI maps, turn up the boost slowly and monitor the EGT and Knock Sum. Ideally the EGTs will peak at 880C and the Timing on the logger will be above 15 degrees. Adjust the AFC up or down until this occurs. Keep in mind that if the boost is too high for the fuel octane, no matter how high you crank up the AFC the EGTs will still be really high. It is better to have less fuel and less boost than to have to add lots of fuel to control the EGTs.

1G Steering Wheel in a 2G

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=208548

originally posted by jonbonazza

Maf Conversions

taken from this link: http://my.prostreetonline.com/t1350.htm

1g to 2g MAF Conversion Info

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I went around on the internet and just put together this little chart on the MAF conversion. Please feel free to reply with edits. (ps the "=>" indicates what it will connect to on the other harness.)

1G TURBO MAF

1 - Idle position switch
2 - Air flow sensor (signal)
3 - MPI control relay
4 - 5V power supply
5 - None
6 - Ground
7 - Barometric pressure sensor
8 - Intake air temperature

1G N/T MAF

1 - Air flow sensor (signal)
2 - MPI control relay
3 – 5V power supply
4 – Ground
5 – Barometric pressure
6 - Intake air temperature

2G TURBO MAF

1 – 5V Power supply
2 – Barometric pressure
3 – Air flow sensor
4 – MPI control relay
5 – Ground
6 – Intake air temperature
7 – Volume Air Flow


CONVERSION: <1g nt MAF -to- 1g turbo MAF>

Pin2 1g Turbo MAF => Pin1 1g NT MAF
Pin3 1g Turbo MAF => Pin2 1g NT MAF
Pin4 1g Turbo MAF => Pin3 1g NT MAF
Pin6 1g Turbo MAF => Pin4 1g NT MAF
Pin7 1g Turbo MAF => Pin5 1g NT MAF
Pin8 1g Turbo MAF => Pin6 1g NT MAF

CONVERSION: <1g turbo MAF -to- 2g turbo MAF>

Pin1 1g Turbo MAF => ?
Pin2 1g Turbo MAF => Pin3 2g Turbo MAF
Pin3 1g Turbo MAF => Pin4 2g Turbo MAF
Pin4 1g Turbo MAF => Pin1 2g Turbo MAF
Pin5 1g Turbo MAF => - (doesn’t seem like it will be used)
Pin6 1g Turbo MAF => Pin5 2g Turbo MAF
Pin7 1g Turbo MAF => Pin2 2g Turbo MAF
Pin8 1g Turbo MAF => Pin6 2g Turbo MAF

I have a 1g but i'm not sure if it's a 6-bolt or a 7-bolt. How do I tell

as long as the oil pan has never been changed refer here:


courtesy of 4g63attack
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=194217

I will run over a few different ways to tune starting with the least recommended to the most recommended. All will require AFC or other suitable fuel tuning device, will assume that you understand how to your your fuel tuning device, have installed the proper mods for the application and are running a proper fuel pressure. This will also be in laymans terms so that everyone that reads can understand it and will be conservative to protect engines. There are more detailed ways to tune for racing applications but those won't be listed.

Tuning device with EGT sensor:
BAD IDEA but we will run over it anyway.
Find a nice long stretch of highway without cops and traffic. Using 4th gear and a friend to keep an eye on the gauge, push the gas to 40% throttle and have your friend record the readings at every rpm range (this may take more than one trial so don't go to redline on the first trial). Your guage should never read higher than 1600 degreed Fahrenheit. Increasing fuel will make the reading lower, decreasing fuel will make the reading higher. Repeat the process for 100% throttle when you are comfortable with your low throttle settings.

Tuning device with 4-lead o2 sensor:
Using a voltmeter splice the signal lead to a wire that will go to the red(input) lead of the voltmeter. Find a suitable ground and run a lead to the black(ground) lead of the voltmeter. Find a nice long stretch of highway without cops and traffic. Using 4th gear and a friend to keep an eye on the voltmeter, push the gas to 40% throttle and have your friend record volt readings at every rpm range (this may take more than one trial so don't go to redline on the first trial. Your voltmeter should read no lower than .80 for n/a cars and .92 for turbo applications. Increasing fuel will take the voltage higher, decreasing fuel will take the voltage lower. Repeat the process for 100% throttle when you are comfortable with your low throttle settings.

Tuning device with Autometer or other air/fuel gauge:
same as tuning with the 4-lead o2 sensor because these guages will splice to that stock sensor. The only difference between this method and the voltmeter method is a different display. gauge face instead of voltmeter reading.

Tuning device with AEM UEGO Wideband:
Find a nice long stretch of highway without cops and traffic. Using 4th gear and a friend to keep an eye on the gauge, push the gas to 40% throttle and have your friend record the readings at every rpm range (this may take more than one trial so don't go to redline on the first trial). Your guage should read between 13 and 15 on the stoichiometric scale guage face for non turbo apps. turbo apps with stock engines should never exeed 11 while turbo apps with built engines can reach 12-13 if you aren't knocking. Increasing fuel will make the reading lower, decreasing fuel will make the reading higher. Repeat the process for 100% throttle when you are comfortable with your low throttle settings.

Using a dyno:
The dyno is the best way to tune. It keeps everyone involved safe if used properly and cops don't care how fast you go on the dyno. Make sure your trust your dyno guys before EVER taking them your car.

Some things to think about:
fuel pressure(FP) – increasing FP will increase fuel intake. If you have a 1:1 rising rate FPR(fuel pressure regulator) or 12:1 FMU(fuel management unit) you will have to account for the rise in fuel pressure under boost so that you do not exceed your fuel injector burst pressure.
Example:
30lbs of boost with a 1:1 FPR. 38Lbs of FP. Injector burst pressure of 60lbs. At full boost your FP will be 68 and your injectors could burst. To fix, either run lower boost or get better injectors.

Injector sizing – overkill is “ok” to a point. If you go too big you won't be able to correct enough to get things right. If you go too small and have to increase the FP to an unsafe level your injectors could burst. It is a good idea to go bigger than smaller but don't put 8 750cc injectors in a car that will be making 400hp.

Monitoring equipment – the best things are an AEM UEGO Wideband not a cheaper one that hooks to your stock o2 sensor (uncluding autometer's version). EGT sensors are ok but aren't a good way to tune. Oil pressure, fuel pressure and boost gauges are always a good idea. The bottom line with monitoring equipment is, the more you have the better it is. There is an “overkill” point with this as well. You don't need weird things like coolant temp or fuel level gauges because your car came with those.

Think of tuning in terms of human health. Lean is ok, too lean will cause death. Rich is ok, too rich is stressful and unfulfilling. Optimum performance is reached in a SLIGHTLY lean condition. On an AEM wideband it would be around 13.5-14.5. However, in 4 cyl cars, leaner causes a slight loss in low end torque. The good things about being lean is that you get better gas mileage and more heat for spooling your turbo. 2 things spool turbos, heat and volume. So by being slightly lean the turbo will spool a little faster. the bad thing about being lean is you risk detonation and making your engine go BOOM!

I found this at dsm.org
I can provide detailed instructions on how to remove the door panels if needed...

Power window fix for 1G DSMs

So you've noticed that your power windows have slowed down a lot, or the window seems to be popping out of its' track and not sealing when it gets to the top of its' travel. This is usually caused by:
· Loose fasteners on the window system
· Dirty window tracks
The fixes are, in increasing order of difficulty:
1. Clean and lube the rubber channels in the window frame everywhere you can get to them without tearing the door apart. Do this by getting any rubber/vinyl cleaner, putting it on a rag, and wiping the channels until the rag comes out clean. This may take a LOT of cleaning. Then lube with NuVinyl, anti-static ArmorAll, or even dielectric grease (YES, this grease works well and does not gum up if put on VERY lightly and then rubbed off).
2. Remove the door panel, and clean/lube the bottom section of the rubber channels you couldn't get to in #1. This will take raising and lowering the window to get all the areas.
3. Check the bolts that hold the window to the window bracket (this is the potmetal bracket that sandwiches the glass and rides on the guide bar) to make sure they are not loose. This rarely happens, but I have seen it happen.
4. Loosen the bolts that hold the guide bar (the mostly vertical tubular bar that the window bracket rides on) to the door, and move it forward or back to get the window to go up perfectly straight (not a lot of adjustment here, but it doesn't take much).
5. Loosen the window guides (the metal brackets covered in bristly material) a little so they don't push on the window so hard.
Do these in order. If 1 doesn't work, try 2, etc. If you do all of these, you are pretty much guaranteed your windows will work properly (they have on the half-dozen DSMs I have done it to).
I will try to add pics of the above steps the next time I have to work on the windows for a DSM.


For those of you having a problem with your power windows going off
track, I recently had to fix this problem on my car that required a
bit of work to resolve. If your problem is a slow moving window,
a shot of silicone spray in the end guide tracks works great for me.
The problem I'm refering to is related to the window not sealing
properly at the top of its travel. I had a gap at the upper left
corner of the drivers window (viewing it from inside the car).
This applies to 1st gen. cars - don't know about newer cars.

There is a window "lift track" in the center of the door that
allows for adjustment of the window attitude as it ascends and
descends the length of the track. This adjustment entails loosening
the top and bottom securing bolts and moving the track laterally to
change the window attitude. The adjustment is made at the top bolts.
Problem is, there's a *minimal* amount of adjustment (and I mean
minimal). The top two holes are slotted to allow a small amount of
left/right movement of the track which, in my case, wasn't enough to
correct the problem. You may have enough adjustment to correct your
problem and can stop here. In my case, I had to widen the slotted
holes until the right window attitude was achieved. For this I used
a Dremel tool with a grinding bit which took all of a few seconds.
I suppose a rat tail file would be OK too but there's not alot of
room to file.

The final adjustment is really trial and error of adjusting the
lift track, then observing the window along its travel as you raise
and lower it until you've got things just right. Keep at it until
there's no binding of the window along its travel and you get a nice
tight seal at the top. While you're in there, give the end guide
tracks a shot of silicone spray. Worked wonders for me.
(Best attempt at ASCII representation follows):

^
\
\
Window travel (up/down along lift track)
\
\
v
----------- (Widen the slots at these two bolts
\ \ for increased adjustment travel)
<-- \ o o \ --> Lateral adjustment changes window attitude
\ \
\ \
\ lift \
\ track \ o = Bolts
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ o o \ (Loosen these bolts to adjust. This is
\ \ just a pivot point for the track)
-----------