Just bought my first 1st gen, love the car, but a little confused. It is a 91 eclipse, 1.8L L4 with 155,000 miles
I just had a quick question about the timing belt if it is a freewheeling belt or not? Can you guys help please?
Mike

Ok, so I was thinkin' and since you can use a 4G63 ECU with a 4G64 (or so I hear, please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.), Would it be possible to use the ECU with the 4G37? In which case, I could use DSMLink on my 1.8T project.

So I pulled the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley off. It was wobbling something awful. Now I have no Idea how to get the other piece it connects to out. Do I need some kind of special tool or just beat the crap out of it. 1993 eagle talon non-turbo 1.8L

Hey eveyone,
I was just trying to find out if my 1992 1.8L 4g37 eclipse has an ignition coil pack a transistor? I looked in chilton and online and have not found anything and was wondering if anyone on here knew.

Thanks

i have a 90 eclipse with the 4g37 i want to make it a 4g63 non turbo i have already purchased the engine and tranny from a guy what all will i need to do to make this swap happen??? cuz after tearing the engine down i have realized this is nothing like messing with the hondas ive had someone just please get me started

So, recently there was a post on here about how my distributor failed. We went for another look, because it seemed really weird that the distributor would just give out on a car, and came to find out, the timing belt snapped. This wouldn't have been a big deal...if I wasn't driving on the freeway when it happened. Long story short, the Mitsubishi dealer told me that there's a very, very good chance (IE, it's happened) that the valves in my engine were bent. So, I've seen a few topics about 4G37 to 4G63 switches, but they never specified if their cars were auto or manual. My car is auto, and I was wondering if it would be easier to just buy a 4G63 engine, and having it installed, versus going through and trying to find a 4G37 enginer, and having it installed...any input? I've seen a couple for around 650 bucks, which doesn't seem too bad to me, just wanted to know if it's going to present problems when putting into the car? Any help is appreciated...

Just to seperate this topic from the Holset Turbo Discussion, I found this as I was browsing for internals:

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...k-chrysler.html

What do you guys think?

As for the rods, I was wrong. The kit I had found does not include the rods. I have looked and looked but can't seem to find any... :/ Any Ideas?

As I have stated in a previous post I am going to start building a 1.8T for fun. I will be posting all questions in this thread along with all of my pics, etc.. of the project.

To start it off I just bought a turbo and intercooler off of a 1990 GS-T for 100 dollars gotta love ebay should be here in about 2-3 days. will post pics on arrival.

Hi gang, Is it written anywhere that agrees with us that the 1.8l 4G37 is non-interference. I need to be able to show a repair shop as they are trying to rip off a friend by telling it is an interference. Looks like Mitchell and Alldata show it AS and interference. Get my delima? I've searched already but no definative sources found.

This may go to court so Please forward your best info!!!

Thanks in advance.

**THIS is a double post from the newbie forum, I just figured you guys might have more insights and might not check that forum regularly!**

Well, I'm Andrew, and I'm in the process of buying a 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Currently I drive a 1995 Ford F-150 which I love dearly, but with the rising price of gas, I decided it was time to invest in a project car which could also act as my primary commuter. Here's the scoop on the one I'm looking at.

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse (base model)
1.8L I4
5 Speed Manual
Gray
184,000 miles
$1,200
Second owner

I went out and test drove it tonight, and I must say, it's severely underpowered, but I expected that from a car that came from the factory with 92 HP. The gas mileage numbers are reportedly pretty good, and overall the car drove fine. I did notice that when starting off in any gear (the moment that the engine begins to engage the transmission), there is a little bit of a clicking noise that sounds a bit troublesome. I checked the CV boots and they looked dry and undamaged, so I'm having the seller take the car in for a front end/power-train diagnostic before I fully commit to buying it. She apparently just had the clutch serviced and they said the transmission looked great, so I'm thinking there may be a problem elsewhere. The engine sounded pretty good, although it had a bit of a 'clicky' noise to it every once in a while and seemed to be a bit shaky at idle. As the owner of a 5.0L V8, I'm not sure what this little I4 is supposed to sound like, so it may be its usual sound, I just wanted to know what you guys thought.

One other interesting bit is that the engine is covered in a thin coat of oil. It appears to be originating from the valve cover (I'm sure the gasket is shot.) I'm assuming that's an easy fix, any thoughts or other possible sources?

Well, I look forward to hanging out, you guys seem to know what you're talking about. If you have any thoughts on my find let me know.

I have a 93 1.8l eclipse and i need a picture of link to the fuse box layout. I have no power to the cig. lighter and i checked all the fuses that are in the box. I am guessing the R-tard that had the car before me pulled the fuse and left it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

Ok first off lemme just say, PLEASE do not flame me for this. This thread is soley an attempt to educate people on how to turbo a 1.8 or 420a. I realize that Kalani did a write-up on DSMTalk.com on this but he left out a good deal of stuff so I am going to attempt to elaborate on the topic.

The first thing you will need, is of course, a turbo. Now if you are working with the 1.8L 4g37 then you will want a relativly small and fast spooling turbo, alot of people tend to opt for a stock 14b or a T-28, although Garrett T3 turbos are probably the most Ideal if you can afford one. Your turbo choice will rely on many variables such as HP goal, Intercooler choice, etc.. but to ease your decision I will throw a couple pointers at you. first off, mitsubishi turbos are a PAIN in the **** to pipe to an intercooler, FMIC or SMIC dont matter... (im talking about on 420a and 4g37 motors. you need to work with whatever angle to compressor housing happens to open up with (btw you will be required to get a custom made manifold so that makes it a bit easier) Garrett turbos are more flexible, and you can rotate the compressor housing to suit your angle needs and ease piping pains. I will give a few other options a bit later.

Manifolds - This one is tricky. In a perfect world we could just bolt up a factory 4g63 manifold and call it a day. Unfortunately, it is not that simple. I am going to break this up into two (2) sections, one for the 1.8L 4g37 and a second for the 2.0L 420a.

- 1.8L 4g37 -
OK this is quite the pain in the **** sincce there really are not that many options to choose from yet none of the options are exactly easy either.
Your first option is to somehow locate a turbo manifold from a 1984-1987 dodge colt/mitsubishi mirage 1.6L turbo. These are INCREDIBLY hard to find but are a direct bolt on to the 4g37. the engine code for the colt/mirage is the 4g32b (AKA the G32B). if you cna find one of these you will need to have the openings ported to match those of the 4g37 motor since the 4g37 has slightly bigger ports than the 4g32b. Also, you will need to have an adapter flange fabricated to fit the turbo you selected. If you REALLY want to make things easier on yourself a 15g turbo is a direct bolt on to the 4g32b manifold which will save you the trouble and money of having an adapter made. TEC makes 15G Upgrades for the 3000GT, so try looking there. Another option (and the one I chose for my build) is to have a custom manifold fabricated by an exhaust or machine shop. It will be alot more expensive but will flow alot better, look prettier, and net a little better hp gains. Which path you take is ENTIRELY your choice.

- 2.0L 420a -
Ok this one is a bit easier. 420a turbo manifolds are all of there place, Ebay is probably the first place I would start. I am sure other people on this forum who have already turboed their 420a can point you in the right direction. just make sure the manifold is tubular rather than cast. cast manifolds are OK but tubular are alot more durable and will net FAR better flow characteristics than that of a cast manifold. Of course, as with the 4g37, you also have the option of having one custom fabbed.

the next step is finding a Wastegate that works with your turbo. Most sites sell the wastegate with the turbo. SBR has an amazing list of wastegates you can buy, along with a large list of turbos. Also, keep in mind that some turbos, like the 14b and 16g, are internally wastegated, which means you dont need to buy one of these.

As far as BOVs go Please, PLEASE do yourself a favor and get a stock 1g BOV or one that vents back to the intake rahter than the atmosphere. Venting to the atmosphere SEVERELY upsets the AFR, sometimes enough to drown the motor between shifts. If you do want to vent to the atmosphere then you will need to spend countless hours tuning the crap out of your fuel and air mixture. Worth it? As for the 420a they do not have a MAF so your only option is to vent to the atmosphere and tune to compensate.

Here is another curveball. You will need a 3" downpipe. for you 4g37 owners your only choice is to have one fabbed. shouldnt be too expensive as there is not much to them. As for all of you 420a guys and gals, you have the mentioned option or there are a few compnanies out there that produce them. just make sure it has a 3" diameter. If you are running relatively low boost a 2.5" would suffice but might as well get a 3" if you ever plan on running over 10psi.

upper and lower IC piping.Same as above but the lower piping you may opt to use a length of aircaft grade hose make sure its the good stuff tho and not radiator pipe. I however prefer to have it fabbed.

Let's see.. next up is intercoolers. FMIC, SMIC, it doesn't matter. unless you plan on big boost and even bigger power (only applicable to the 420a obviously lol) then a factory SMIC should be fine.

Tuning is another thing that relys heavily on personal preference. There are many options to tune your newly turboed DSM. These include: One of the three versions of Apexi's AFC (SAFC, SAFCII, AFC Neo), or a standalone unit such as AEM or haltech. The AFCs are the easiest to use, however, once you start running really big injectors (around 550cc) then you will start to notice the fuel mappings become pretty crazy and uncontrolable. The final option is the standalones. AEM and haltech are both amazing but also expensive as hell. If you can afford them, though, they are the best option.

Let's see.. whats next? Oh yes, fuel upgrades.
- Injectors: for the 1.8 just throw some factor 450cc injectors in and be done with it.. any bigger is way overkill. For the 420a it pretty much depends on how much boost you plan on running what internal mods you have etc... if your only running around 10-11 psi then 450cc will suffice. if you plan on running more 650cc is probably your best bet.

As for Oil lines, make sure to use braided stainless steel oil lines...nothing else.. they aren't normally available over the counter at most auto parts stores but you can usually find them at hot rod shops or even online (Summit Racing has them). You can tap the oil feed off of the place the oil pressure sender screws into. Just screw in a T-fitting behind the pressure sender. The oil return will depend on your turbo. You will need to drill, tap or weld an elbow onto your oil pan for the oil return. If you use an oil cooler, hook it up to the oil return from the turbo. That's where the oil is going to be its hottest. We want it at about operating temperature. Nothing below.
Oil coolers are of course optional but I HIGHLY reccomend one. a simple 4-pass oil cooler is rather cheap, only around 100 USD, so do yourself a favor and get one. It will save you many headaches in the future.

Your only real choice for an intake is to have one fabbed. depending on your turbo and how your IC piping is set up you MIGHT be able to fit a turbo for a GS-T or GSX on there but it would be much easier just to have one fabbed. I also reccomend a good filter such as K&N or something similar.

With a turbo app you will want to get your compression as LOW as possible without sacrificnig too mucch performance. using two head gaskets you will get around 8-8.2:1 depending on the manufacturer. with the 1.8 the pistons are domed. To me, adding another headgasket is the same as increasing the deck height, which doesn't change the geometry of the chamber as much as different shaped pistons, and doesn't change the behavior of the engine as much as shorter connecting rods would. The quench area in the chamber is different, but since the pistons are domed rather than dished, they don't have that foot-ball shaped quench area, they have a boomerang shaped area. the geometry of the 420a much different so this will not apply to the 420a. Upgrading the internals of the 420a is HIGHLY recommended and REQUIRED for boosting over 8psi.

You will also need a Manual Boost Controller or Electronic Boost controller (I prefer manual along with many other enthusiasts) SBR makes a really good MBC for merely 45 USD.

Next up - Boost gauge. The brand is completely governed by preference. I chose Glowshift but that is just me. Many people prefer AEM or ProSport.

Wideband - again, a luxury. but I HIGHLY recommend one.. will make your life SOOO much easier. (rather costly tho... and be sure to get the AEM UEGO... only one worth the money...)

Also, something that I probably should have mentioned MUCH earlier. Make sure to get 2.5-3" piping from the cat back. whichever you choose make sure to get a muffler and cat with the same diameter.





I hope this info is of help to someone. I just thought I would make an entire post dedicated to this since so many people liek to ask about it. Maybe a sticky would help?

I know this is for the 1.8 but still... im sure it will be useful to someone.

(NOTE: This FAQ was not written by me but instead by Kalani or DSMTalk.com.)


http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90211

very VERY thorough walkthrough.. 5 stars

Can you swap any ECU without having any problems as long as it is the same motor or will you have to do a retune or something of the sort?

first things first, running my daily driver DSM 93 eclipse 1.8l with around 120k miles on it. Bought it for 500 bucks and dropped 600 into to get it inspected (stupid NY State Inspections) It has the auto tranny.

1: When i bought it the girl said her dad but 3 head gaskets in it over 2 years.
a) It is a dog. Takes for ever to go through 1st and 2nd. 3 rd and 4th are nice. Any chance that this could be tranny related. I do notice it "Bucking" when it is down shifting. Yet f i put it in low and run it Low - 2nd - Drive it powers through great (for a 1.8l)

I have a 4G37 (1.8 SOHC) in my car and I was wondering if a 3.8 L 24-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 6G75 engine or even the more recent (4G63-T) from the Evo VIII, or IX or the DOHC 24v V6 twin turbo From the GTO/3000GT is possible with little or no alteration to the engine bay?

any clue if this will fit the 4g37?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RTQ:MOTORS:1123

I have decided that even though gas prices are pretty high i still would like a turbo app. and why not try something different?
I know there has been alot of discussion on the 1.8l Turbo and thanks to a post on dsm talk I have created a list of things ill need for a 1.8l T app.

1) Tubro Manifold off of a 84-87 dodge colt (G32B)
2) Turbo off of a 1g eclipse
3) Stock intercooler off of a 1g eclipse
4) intercooler piping (local exhaust shop is making this for me)
5) stock 1g BOV
6) Rising Rate FPR
7) Downpipe (also being made by local exhaust shop)
8) braided steel oil lines
9) ARP head studs
10) Head gasket


ok i can get everything except the oil lines, head studs, head gasket and Rising Rate FPR from my friend's dad's junk yard. so here are my questions:

1) How do I know if a FPR is rising rate? Anyone know of a good one for the 1.8L?
2)can I get ARP head studs from places like autozone? or do i need to go the online route? if i must search online wheres the best place to get them from?

3) whats the best brand of Braided steel oil lines?


Wish me luck!

Thanks in advance,
Bonazza

been a while. at any rate last time i left you i was considering doing an engine swap. but with gas prices as they are now I don't feel a turbocharged application is of best interest. at the moment I have a 1993 1.8L eclipse and I was thinking of see what I could do with it performance wise... so far Ive only been able to find simple stuff like cams, intakes, FPRs etc... my question is: does anyone know if there are any pistons that are made for other cars that might fit the 4g37? 1.8L is fairly common in hondas and stuff... anyone know?

so I have a 1991 Mitsubishi eclipse Base model right and i was just wondering how how hard is it to swap it out with a 2.0 litre turbo? just want to know if anyone can help!

I was suggested by one of my tecnician profesors to add ATF fluid to the gas tank, however I asked him how much, he said whatever I wanted to. It seemed kinda odd to add whatver I felted like if I didnt know what it was gonna do, so expecting that it would have positive effects since it came from my profesor's mouth I added 2 quarts of ATF to the gas tank of my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8 4G37 EFI SOCH engine. After firing up the engine I went to work as usual, after 10 miles of driving the engine started loosing power, then explosions were heard consistently coming out of the air filter when I accelerated. It seemed my engine was done. As soon as I stopped, the engine died. So remembering that I had added the ATF, I put about 4 gallons of gas to the tank thinking it would mix and it'll all be over. As soon as I started the engine again it started up fine but then problems began again, at every red light the engine would stall and die. This was 2 days ago. Today engine is the same, very rough idling, misfiring and loss of power and all I did differently was add the ATF. What can I do to diagnose further causes of this or what can I do to drain this hydraulic oil out of my fuel system. It's the worst thing I've done to my car but now I gotta get it fixed somehow. Thanks for taking the time to read my story...

Best Regards,

Jose Serrano

1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8 Liter wont start after sitting several months with a dead battery.

Changed the oil.
Changed the oil Filter.
Changed the spark plugs.
Cleaned the air filter.
Changed the Fuel Filter.
Changed the battery.
Added 3 gallons gas.

I have checked and I do get a spark. I do not get any fuel to come out of the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter. So i checked coming into the fuel filter and still nothing. Since i had it off i changed the fuel filter. Checked the fuel line and the return under the car by the drivers seat and had my buddy turn the key and still no gas pumping out.
I believe I am down to 2 things.

In a post someone mentioned the asd (mfi) relay can shut down the pump, coil and injectors but my autoparts store (AutoZone & Pep Boys) can't find anything in their system that has that description. They also cannot find a fuel pump relay. What should I be looking for or telling them? They also asked what asd and mfi stood for.?.?.? And if my car does have these relays which one is it? I have some relays and fuses on the passenger side and drivers side of the engine compartment and also some under the dash by the drivers door.

The second thing is changing a fuel pump and gaskets. I don't think I need to drop the tank. i saw the gas tank and it appeared to have two circles on it one bigger than the other. I imagine I can open them and get to the pump that way???
Any help would be appreciated. I visit the site for information and generally have been able to get the help by reading other posts and not having to post myself but this time i couldn't.

Alright so i was driving my car down the street and when i turned on the lights the car kinda backfired and shut off. the alternater is perfectly fine and the battery was just charged yesterday.... anybody know what to check its a 4g37 1g eclipse non turbo

My 1993 Eclipse GS 1.8L, stick, is stalling constantly. I'll be driving 40mph and stalls. Sitting at light and stalls. Seems like when I start to give it gas it stalls out. Kinda like no fuel is being injected. I've have a new distributor, new spark plugs, new battery, new fuel filter, new fuel relay... Now when it stalls it won't even start after. Seems like the RPMs kinda flux a lil between 0 and 500 and then konks out. Trying to give it gas while its doing this doesn't help. After messing with the fuel relay wires I heard the relay kicking on and off. So thought something was loose or short. Tighten that and ajusted the idle up a bit, and well that fix the starting problem, but still stalls constantly. I'm mean every few miles. Starts back up fine but then stalls a lil later again.. Can someone please help.. I'm pulling my hair out??

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1992 Mits Eclipse 1.8L Auto. 140K. My brake fluid ran low and I lost brake pressure. I though it was a problem with the RR caliper so I rebuilt that, it had a bad piston seal and boot. I then proceeded to fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes in the correct order. (RR, LF, LR, RF) The right rear went fine, so did left front, when I got the left rear caliper then air would just not stop coming out after about 1/2 a bottle of fluid I tried the right front and same thing, just tons of air coming out. So the first 2 calipers in order were fine but the last 2 just kept putting out air. The service manual doesn’t mention any troubleshooting tips for this kind of problem. My question is if anyone has an idea of the problem? Possibly the brake booster, or master cylinder?

thanks in advance!

Alright everybody, I'm a noob to these forums, but I already read the pinned noob topic and tried searching for my problem but can't find it.

So heres my problem, I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse that is a 1.8L 5 spd manual. It has been acting sluggish on my take offs and accelerating pretty slow this past week. The other day I pulled up to a stop light and waited for it to change, as soon as I went to take off in 1st it didn't move at all but revved up really high, so I put it in reverse and it did the same thing, so I had to put it in neutral and push it around the corner.

Does anybody know what might have happened and what I need to do to fix it?

My mechanic says my 93 Eclipse GS needs a new ECU. I can find ECUs on the internet & ebay, but need the part #, which I am unable to find on MY ecu. The engine is 1.8L. Anyone know how I would find the correct part #?

THANKS!

well here is the deal. I wrapped the car around a pole right door is toast might of twisted it as well. It ran fine before this turns over but won't start not getting fuel. This is a high mileage 1.8L with a pair of 5 Speeds. Dropped the original breaking the case so i found another. All new discs a year ago as well as rear brake lines and cat. I found a 91 Dodge Shadow for $1000 cert. and e tested sounded cheaper then getting the Talon fixed. Looking for around $200 for the car live in southern Ontario

'91 Eclipse 1.8L

Alternator is not charging and nothing inside my interior works (including courtesy lights and stereo) unless the car is running (even if the key is in the 'on' position they don't work. It has to be running.) However my guage cluster does come on when I turn my parking lights/headlights on. If the engine is running everything works normally (courtesy lights, heater fan, etc.) Also if my headlights are on and I kill the engine before turning them off my popup lights don't go down, but they do go down when I turn the lights off BEFORE cutting the engine. When driving, the temp and oil guages aren't reading as high as they should, suggesting a lack of voltage. When I turn the key on I get 8 beeps from the mainboard and they're kinda weak (anybody know the error code or where I could find it?) My stereo also loses all power randomly and then turns right back on when the engine is running, it's wired through the harness, not a direct line from the battery. This usually happens when I turn on my high beams or a turn signal or hit the brake lights but it happens when I do nothing to cause it as well. When I kill the engine and crank it back up my stereo also loses all it's saved settings (clock, EQ, etc) and has to be reset (i.e. no 12v constant?)

It's almost like everything inside the car is running off the Accessory/Ignition line.

Is this just a dead alternator or is it that and something else? Does the 12v constant come from the alternator instead of the battery in this car? Any help would be appreciated.

I have a problem......... i bought a 1992 eclipse 1.8 auto trans. at first the trans was very slugish in drive and wouldnt switch gears but in reverse the car had plenty of power. so i replaced the trans thinking that would solve the problem. boy was i wrong and not o mention a lil po'ed. so i looked a lil deeper into the wireing and discovered that (tcu)was not functioning and hadvisable damage to the board. after replacing that the same problem presist,,, any ideas?

alright i was wondering what all can u do the the 4g37 motor to make it faster without doing deep tear down of the motor

i read the forum above about turboing a non turbo to a turbo but have not been able to find anything about turboing a 4g37...is there any way way without doing much modifing to the car to do so

just got a new head and am needing to know how to put it all back on the right way got all the gaskets and stuff like that for it...dont want to mess anything up....it is a 92 1.8 sohc eclipse 4g37


if u can help i will greatly appreciate it

will a 92 gsx catback exhaust system work on my 92 1.8 4g37 stock exahust

I'm trying to find out what will fit both i got a 93 eagle talon 1.8L when i changed the O2 censor the treads came out of my exhaust manifold so I was looking into headers for it couldn't find anything for the 1.8 so I'm wondering if a set for the 2.0 will fit it

ok i have a question... i have a 93 Eclipse base model, and a co-worker has a 91 Egal Talon Base model... but wehn i was lookin around his car i noticed something... his redlines at 7 ( i think it was 7) and mine redlines at 6... i know that eclipses and talons in those years were virtually the same car... so y question is why did they lower the redline from 91 to 93? o yea and i dont think my car has power steering.. did they make them withoout power steering back then? i loked under my hood and didnt see the pump.. and the wheel is hard as hell to turn so.. i dunno..

thnx
Jon

Hey fellow DSM-ers,

I need some assistance, I want to know if a 1.8 SOHC I4 (4G37) engine is a interference or a noninterference engine?

The reason I ask is because I was driving at 80mph back home when the car lost all power. I thought it was the alternator but all the electronics work, so I am stranded on the highway, have plenty of fuel and power.

then I realize that my timing belt snapped so I had to get it towed back to my place.

So I am considering either junking my car, selling it for cheap or fixing up the timing belt.

But I know for sure that if the engine was a interference engine then it would be pointless to fix up because it's a really high chance that the valves were bent.

So that's where I need to know.

I've been told that it is a Interference engine by autozone but I asked a bunch of mechanics and car enthusiasts and they are not sure but they are 75% sure that it is a non-interference engine.

So Help Me Out Please.

Hey i did the engine swap from a 4g37 to a 4g64 i was wondering if the wiring harness from the 4g37 will work for the 4g64. If it doesnt is all i have to do is replace after the fusebox? Any information would be helpful

I h ave a 94 eclipse with a 4g37 (1.8l) engine in it, i am gonna swap it with either a 4g63 or a 4g64. What do i have to do as far as engine mounts? Will the engine mounts from the 63 or the 64 hit the right spot in the the engine bay, or will i have to move them. Any advice on this would be helpful.

anyone got a good computer for my 92' with a 4g37? 5speed

will the 5 speed of a '94 4g37 bolt on to the '91 4g63 engine??

I have a 1994 eclipse 1.8L sohc. I was at the junkyard the other day picking up an alternator and I was talking to the guy about how hard it is to find performance parts for the 1.8L such as headers, cat-back exhaust, and turbo. He said that they make a magazine with parts specifically for the eclipse. He also said that Kia cars have the same engines as the eclipse and I would be able to find headers, exhaust, and turbo for that car and it would fit on mine. I think he said Kia Sephia but he wasn't completely sure. So basically, what is this magazine that he speaks of and, is there any truth behind the Kia engines being the same?

I just bought a 93 egale talon for a nice price running. now i have around 2k to try and make this thing faster.....any ideas?????

Is their turbo kits for this DSM......


Its a 4G37 sohc 1.8........

i searched around but found nothing......

I got this can of refrigerant called Arctic Freeze. I used it to recharge the a/c on my old prelude before and now it needs done on the eclipse. I have a 94 1.8L. On the back of the can, it says find the low-pressure port of the a/c system. They say it's usually blue or black. I found a port but it's red and I'm not sure if thats it or not. I found another port thats black but it's down in connected to the engine. The can says it would be found between the evaporator in the dash board and the compressor on the engine. If anyone could help me find this port it would be greatly appreciated.

I took a look at my engine bay to see how an intake would fit in and, it brought me to a question. There is some connection called a "volume air flow sensor" which connects to the air filter cover. If I were to get an intake kit, what would I do with this connector because as far as I know, there is no connection for that on an aftermarket intake. This may be a stupid question but I couldn't think of any explanation.

I hit a bump in my 92 rs and it shut down. It was like a speed bump. timing belt is still in one piece. can't check fire because I had to leave it parked somewhere else other than home. What could that bump have dome to make it quit. Also fuel pump is ok.

Hey guys I have been gone for a long time but I'm back. 92 rs with the 4g37. soon to be my sons car. It started to run like crap so I unhooked the connector from the airflow sensor @air filter. car runs better but still lost 10 mpg's. tried different sensor but nothing.

ok a couple simple questions:

1) can i put the factory 2.0l injectors on a 1.8l? they are bigger correct? if not what are some god injectors to go with?

2) how much of a gain (if any) would i expect from a complete feul system upgrade?

3) any brands you guys recommend?

thnx,
Bonazza

Does anyone know if a 92 Plymouth Colt with the same Mitsubishi 1.8L engines automatic transmission will work in a 1990 Eclipse 1.8L. Hollander says only Eclipse and Lazer thru 92, but the Colt tranny looks identical.

Thanks!

My 4g37 sat for a while and when we went to start it it wouldnt start. I checked the spark and it was good. There fuel pressure is good at the fuel filter. We think it might be the injectors.
Any help would be great.


Mike