hi there,

i'm just wondering if anyone can provide advice - i currently have a 25v diamante but am considering upgrading and the options are:
- 30R-SE 4WD
- 30M SE
- Deporte 4wd (which is apparently the 30M, and does have a mivec engine).

Are the 4wd diamantes actually 4wd or more like AWD?
Which of those would you recommend over the others, all are roughly the same year and condition, i'm leaning towards the 30M for the mivec engine which sounds pretty flash, but then the 30R-SE has some very impressive features.

thanks!

Sorry for the rookie question but i did a search for a bit but could not find a thread. Could some lead me in the right direction. Just started yesterday, not even sure it the strut but when i hit some bumps it sould like something in fallen off. Any advise how to replace or even check if its the strut. Car as 101000 easy miles on it.
thanks

Hi

On a TP Magna (1990) and probably its predecessors (TN, TM) the front hubs need to be removed to renew the wheel bearings. They mention a hub removal tool in the manual, but has anyone found one or done it without it? The danger is damaging the hub when not using a puller/removal tool designed for the job. I doubt any puller would work because the manual talks about bolting the removal tool to the steering knuckle's boltholes (from the front struts, ball joint and tie rod end, when its out of the car) and the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped. I can't imagine any average puller being able to be affixed to it somehow, whether through leverage or a nut and bolt.

Curioso

Well My 2002 vr-x has been stored all winter, I got it out a month ago and noticed the floor was all wet.. I though it had a leak and it was melted snow, so I pushed my hand on the floorboard, and nothing but green came up.. and ALOT of it. It was soaked.. Now I hear this car has issues with leaky cores, or the seal ( o ring ? ) which can leak onto a ECU or TCU? Not to sure exactly what those are , but have seen on here that it can cause OTHER issues

So my next question is this.. Sometimes my tranny seems like its slipping when going into the next gear. It still feels solid and strong, and always goes directly into gear when you shift , but Im wondering if the leaky core might have something to do with that as well..??

Lastly, how hard is it to change the heater core on these .. thanks everyone, this has been a problem for a while now , and would love to finally get everything working right again

this is a link for australians who own a first gen TN/TP magna
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/for...topic.php?t=814



about the automatics only TN/TP link
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/for...158&t=16550

An Information Post:

One of the best tools I've ever had is a portable jump starter with air compressor (see pic below).

As long as you keep it charged (and they have battery level indicator lights) it's the easiest way to jumpstart and inflate your tyres. And they are light and small enough to fit in any boot without being a space consumer or weight drag problem.

Only thing is, when you jumpstart, do not put the earth clamp on the car's bodywork (fender etc). Try the water pump, or something chunkier/heavier and with better conductivity than light thin sheet metal.

The first thought I had about these is that they are perfect for single female drivers who want to be able to start their car without having to ask another car for help with jumper leads. Kind of a safety device and a way of avoiding strangers.

This is a few intake and induction break downs


1992-1997 Mitsubishi Galant 6G73 2.5 V6
1992-1999 Mitsubishi Galant 6A12 2.0 V6
1996-1998 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13 SOCH
1996-2004 Mitsubishi Galant/Legnum 6A13T (DOCH)
1996-2005 Mitsubishi Diamante 6G72/6G73/6G74 DOCH , SOCH and Variable Geometry Intake Plenum
1997-2005 Mitsubishi Magna/Verada 6G72 and 6G74

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthre...839075#poststop




order an owners manual
http://www.giantuniverse.com/owners.htm

http://rapidshare.com/files/93856183/TR-TS...Manual_1995.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93851743/Mitsu...2-95_Manual.zip

http://rapidshare.com/files/93849679/6g72_Engine.pdf

http://rapidshare.com/files/93865565/magnaworkshop.part1.rar

http://rapidshare.com/files/93868998/magnaworkshop.part2.rar

http://www.adobe.com/ap/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

http://winrar.download-express.org/

I have finally had enough of cleaning my fabric seats and wish to go back to the days of using Mother on the leather and that makes cleaning fast.

Anyway I am wondering if I can get the leather seats out of any model Diamante to fit my 30r [E-F36A-TYPM] or would there be issues?
The driver seat on mine is fully electric. Other than that I see nothing that can't be swapped over.

mac

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoDdO78UnJE

So the vid is of me going up our drive way. Bit of an issue with the TCL off and getting going but proper easy acceleration over came that issue. Once near the top hit 1st from 3rd.

Tell me what you think. Sound different when inside driving. But oh well. Now I here it from out side it really dose sound much like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQl6MG_GBh0

mac

Hey,

I have found a very good condition 1996 Mits diamante mivec, but needs to be shipped to me though. But it has a suspected broken cambelt! How hard are they to get that fixed up? Or is it cheaper to get another motor?

I can find another motor with 100,000 on the clock for around $800.00.

Cheers,

mac

Just another reason I buy Mitsubishi VS anything else...I bought my 99 Diamante about 3 months ago with 225K on the clock and needing a top end rebuild. Buying a 12 year old car used with 225K I expect to have to put some work and money into her to get her back to prestine condition. When I bought the car I opened the manual and filled out the little owner info. card and mailed it back to Mitsubishi. I check my mail today and have a letter from the Warranty Dept. at Mitsubishi Motors, first congratulating me for purchasing a 1999 Mitsubishi Diamante, then telling me to call back immediately that my Diamante, at 225K and 12 years old, may be eligible for an extended warranty. So I call the number on the letter, and after some conversation and a few questions find out I can get an extended warranty from Mitsubishi Motors for my Diamante. The warranty is 3 years/100K and covers my engine, transmission, driveshaft, and suspension. It will cost me $113/mo. They say once enrolled, all Ill have to do is take the car to a Mitsubishi Dealership if I have and problems and its a $100 deductable no matter whats wrong. I was shopping for a remanufactured 3.5L engine until I got this letter....They also provide me with a rental while my car is being repaired. Ive never heard of this being offered for a car as old and with as many miles as mine...

My fellow Mitsubishi Enthusiasts...first let me say hello and thanks in advance for any assistance offered. Ive been a lifetime Mitsubishi owner, from my first which was a 1993 Eclipse to the 99 Diamante and 03 Galante I currently own. I personally like to buy used Mitsubishis and restore VS buying new, I just feel more pride knowing I did alot of the work. My Diamante is Lucille, she has 228 on the clock with no rebuilds or major maintenance. She purrs like a kitten and roars like a lion when asked. Ill never own anything but Mitsubishi....anyway...Im having a problem with the climate control in Lucille. It was working fine then suddenly yesterday the air stopped coming out of the vents. I can still hear the air blowing and as I adjust from low to high can hear it adjust correctly, but no air out of the vents. I tried to change it from the vents to the floor then to the defrost and nothing out of any vents. I did notice something though, since Ive owned my car whenever I started it, I would have a clicking noise inside the car for about 60 seconds, and since this has happened the clicking noise is gone. Any suggestions? Thanks alot!

-Also, I forgot to mention that for about the last 2 weeks or so when I would have the air on intermittently there would be a noise coming from the vents, and it would stop if I turned the air off and back on. Thanks again

This light started coming on - only after I drive over ~80kph (i.e. usually after about 30sec on open road @ 100kph).
Sometimes it doesnt come on at all, but usually after about 30seconds over 80kph.

i was told that it was an airbag sensor light, but dont know why the car would have both 'SRS' and this light for airbags.
if its not clear enough, i'll get another pic. Its on the center of the dash in the same bit as the clock and is a exclamation mark ! in a circle with vertical zig-zag lines at the bottom...

any suggestions as to what it could be are welcome

thanks for your help.

edit - by the way this is on my F36A 1996 Diamante 30M Deporte

I have a 2001 Diamante.

I was driving with the A/C on and bumped the button on the A/C panel that shifts the blowing from dash to defrost to floor, etc... and it shifted but made a funny vaccum sound, like when you have a shopvac and it picks up something that blocks the suction.

The a/c continues to blow a little cold air, and the fans are working but there is something blocking the center vents from allowing air flow and the air won't shift from dash to floor to defrost any more (although it sounds like it's trying to)... it's like there is a vacuum flap stuck closed or something blocking it, or the mechanism that shifts the airflow is stuck.

UPDATE: I stuck a hanger down there and can snag the flap and pull it up for a moment which allows airflow, but then it is like its spring loaded and closed when i lose the hold.

Any help on this would be much appreciated, or diagrams of the interior cooling/venting system ...please help, it was 112 today. thanks

Hey,

My Car is still been fixed up. It has a 30.r motor and 5 speed gear box

This car has gone through 3 gear boxes. Two of them have had the same problem. Slipping gears, and not wanting to go into drive, with out forcing the car up to 1 foot forward.

Well the car has now ha a fully re-built gear box. Nothing wrong with the box now. But the problem is still in the car, in the way it wont go into drive with out some whole car shaking puling forward motion. And very very harsh changes from 4thr and second gear.
The computer has been checked over and over. The whole lot has been looked at and fixed and check, and the same problem wont go away.

Any clues. So far it has tanken the machenic, tec guy and gear box fellow 3 weeks to get this fixed, and near $8,000.00

mac

If anyone here can help me with this, I'd really appreciate it.

I have a 95 diamante LS and I'm usually pretty good at changing out little electrical things in my car without messing things up..changed my speakers myself, installed a new climate control in my dash, all kinds of things. But this time, I really screwed up.

I tried changing out my antenna with an inexpensive aftermarket one, which at first made me hesitant, just a few wires...how hard can it be right??
Yeah....this project almost killed my inner child....

I got out my volt meter and cut wires (I'm pretty sure it happened here) from the non fitting connector that went to my old one to splice my new one in. I had to test to see what wire had a constant 12volt and a wire that had a 12volt only when the key is turned, so I had to leave the battery on. Not only did I not get the antenna to work, I managed to knock out: (ready? thanks in advance for reading this, and this is after replacing two fuses, these issues remain)

All internal lights. Dome, Map, Courtesy Glove box...

window operation from the drivers seat for the back two windows. They can still be controlled from their individual switches and I can still control the front two.

the analog clock hasn't moved since I started the job. (Like in back to the future)

the stereo needs the security code every time I leave the car off (from no constant voltage?)

Wipers don't move when I run the sprayer now, I have to move the wipers down to position 2 (1 doesn't work now)

Headights used to stay on after the car is turned off...as much as I like not worrying about killing my battery, I know it's not good that they go off after the car is off.

Electrical locks are out too...

God knows what else!!!

I'm guessing I blew something pretty central....like the etacs?

Thanks so much an advance

-Lucien

good morning to all people, i;m about to get a '97 diamante, i currently have a mazda 323 manual transmission, and just wanted to introduce me to the diamante/magna/vereda team, and if possible to share some knowlegde.


i've been reading a lot about the car, but there's little info regarding this car (compared to evos, lancers, any 'common' mitsubishi model)

so, i have a couple of questions, that i'll be gladly if you guys can give me a hint.


the car i'm about to buy is a '97 mitsibishi diamante, black. some info i would like to know>>>

- 6G74 engine, V6 3.5l. (for me this is huge, my mazda has a sohc 1.6 in-line 4 engine)
-- how's the fuel efficiency on this engine?
-- how often whould i have to do a service on it?
-- what comonly knwon issues with this engine should i check for?

- auto transmission, INVECS. (without step-tronic, straight gear line)
-- i've allways loved manual transmissions, so my plans are to change it to mannual, around xmas maybe.
-- if anyone has already done this before, i would like some tips, hints here (lol)
-- can i fit a montero '98 transmission here??? what transmission should i look??


i did some test driving last sunday, and the car runs smootly, has only 135k on the odometer, every gismo works (radio is a bit tilted, but it works) transmission is smooth, and has all it's airbags intact, with only minor paint chips, and a small hit on frony bumper, right side.

it's all leather! (comfy, i just don't like the aging marks on leather)



so, i'm kinda excited about this car, any wisdom is welcome!

PD. thanks for reading!

I can't find out how to tighten my serpentine belt on my 95 diamante dohc

can anyone explain it?

Hey,

Well after some time I have finally added my new air filter that my wife bought for me as a surprise, and KnN air filter. Which went wrong.

See the man she ordered from gave the details of my car to him, and well he bought in the OZ 3.0 v6. So consequently it did not fit mine. Was half the size of mine. Once that got sorted out and the time taken to, explain to the company over the phone about my air intake the size and model ect, they sent me the new filter, which fitted the 1999 3.5 Diamante.

Now that it is in, boy I must say it dose work. The whilst starts now at 2,000rpm not 3,000rpm and really much more lazy revs. Not to much change but enough to notice.
So see how things go once it has some more kays on it.

mac

Hi - quick question:

how do you remove the rear seats of a diamante?
trying now but cant seem to find whats holding it on and have already pulled 1/2 the car to bits lol..

its the fixed seats (not fold down or anything)...
f31a 1995 Diamante 25V

cheers.

I just replaced the fuel pump and everything was running well for about three days, then it started running real bad like it was starved for fuel or a lack of fire. i made it home and into the garage and noticed a bad burn smell from under the hood. it smells like melting plastic. I found two relay looking things on the firewall mounted side by side on the same bracket with rubber washers. I don't know what they are and it seems as if the smell may be coming from there. they are on the firewall, just inside of the brakebooster. does anyone know what these are, or have any advice?

I've been having this problem with my 1994 Diamante for a few months now, and although the problem isn't extremely serious, it makes me a bit nervous to drive it. While the car runs great some of the time, it will also idle either higher or lower than what I consider to be normal. Typically the engine idles low and almost stalls when I come to a complete stop or let my foot off the gas when backing out of a parking space. It's died in both of these situations as well, but will usually restart. If it doesn't want to start, giving it a bit of gas usually cures the problem and will get the engine to turn over, but then I can't let my foot off the gas or it will drop the RPM's to zero and die again. When it decides to idle high, the car will automatically rev to 2000 RPMs in park, dropping down to about 1500 when shifted into drive. Usually once I get it over 40mph it will be up at about 3000 and magically drop back down to normal. I've self-diagnosed my problem as the IAC Valve being clogged, but I have no idea how to locate or clean it myself. I'd like to save some money and attempt the job so I'm wondering if anyone here knows how to clean the IAC Valve. It also burns oil slightly, and smokes a bit.. I know this is an issue with Diamantes and any tips for that are appreciated as well. Thanks in advance

Hey everyone, i own a 2001 mitsubishi magna si v6 and recently had a front end, it was low speed but damaged my bonnet and front bar and the metal work behind the bar. Long story short, this model is very hard to get parts for from wreckers and aftermarket parts are expensive and not a guarenteed fit like genuine parts, jst wondering if anyone has these parts in good condition that are willing to sell, i have contemplated putting a different front bar on it, there are 2 i dont mind, jvm make one but the guy wont contact me so i seem to think he doesnt do them anymore which sucks cos i like that one and the other one is on carmate.com called the "jn2" which is ok, has anyone fitted these bars and do u think they are any good, thanks heaps

Hey guys,

I have not yet been able to as of yet get the sound of my exhaust since it has been fully fixed with it being driven to give the true sound. But one close vid of that is this first one.

Just listen and think it is at legal NZ exhaust limitations. So way more muffled. But very very much the same. And mine has the same whistle as you will here in this one.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQl6MG_GBh0

Now for mine. Only revved up to the 4,500rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMPb5OQZ3Bw

So really you need to be next to the car to get the full idea of what it sounds like. Idling it has the burble like this vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ShrdBSnIs4

Then changing to the normal roar of the Diamante to the scream as you hit 5,500-7,000rpm.

mac

Just completed a brake job on my 2002 Diamante.. All went fairly well till I ran into a stubborn bolt on the rear caliper bracket... Actually I ended up shearing it off and I was able to take the bracket to a local mechanic who removed the frozen stud with lots of heat.. I noticed the bolt head has a red painted head... Did this mean it had the RED thred locker on it and it required heat to remove? The bolt above it had red material on the treads but it did come out.. Or did this mean good 'old Sears (they did the brakes last) decided to add the compund?

Ive been checking out this forum for a while now and have found it very useful, so i thought id ask some questions

I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Verada Xi KF and want to install H.I.D.'s
I've looked up the bulb size that my car takes, and a guy at Autobarn also told me that low beam is H4
However, my headlight case has printed H7 for low beams and H1 for high beams, so im left confused
Which one is it?

Should I get a 55w or 33w setup?
Bi-xenon or xenon? I know the difference (im pretty sure i do), just trying to gather thoughts and opinions

I know the legality issues with H.I.D.'s...

Thankyou for anyone that can lend me a hand

I have been looking at this car down Invercargill but it is $4,000 above what I would be willing to pay. Due to the fact I really want to go cash. But since the time in fixing mine and now the full time change in pay. It will take me a bit till I can get the car money saved up. But can well and truly afford to buy this on HP. But don't want to get in the red. Due to being out of the red and cash ahead.

So here it is. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-290036611.htm

Really the pics on the actual web site of the company not the trade me site. But don't know. I really am happy to be in the cash side in the black.
So I am guessing and I do know waiting one will come up. But some times jumping to what is around you works just as good.

mac

Well done my 20,000km tranny service. All went well. The man who spend 1 month fixing it is happy she still going just as good as when he fixed her up. Oil in good condition everything. Anyway $195.00 latter with mates rates to, that is the first part done.

Now the sad part. Just so you all get what I am talking about. When I first bought this wonderful car, my GF wanted to buy this one so well did what she wanted against my better judgement. Anyway with that part aside the car gave issues very fast. Well I took it in to get a small fault with the idler fixed. That took nothing but did cost $89.00 to get it fixed.
So when I get the docet it had the cars exact number plate details ect on it. But the previous owners name. Well this made me think. So after some lengthy debating I managed to get the mechanic to tell me how they previous owner was like to the car and how was she serviced. Well found it since she had owned the car she was a good driver. Never hard on it nothing like abusive. But never once in 100,000kms did it get serviced. Just the odd thing check. She said no it is running good and needs nothing done to it.
So well that is the sad story of my girls. Man would love to find the person shake her and give her the bills. Man I could buy a 2004 vrx with 100,000kays with good history.

Well now she is in my caring hands gone through 8 oil changes each at 5,000kms intervals. The first ever change was lumpy and black as black. More black than any oil from any car or truck tractor I have ever seen. And so lumpy. You could grow plants in it.
Anyway after the 1st change she ran very nice then but smoke started. So once 5,000kms were up did another. This time same thing just more brown not black. For the next 5,000kms less smoke but still grey smoke and odd blue grey puff but so rare to see that more after running at idle for ages. Dumped that lot of oil and very little lumps and quite smooth on the fingers. The same with the next lot not change but no smoke after the 3rd oil change. That went away and the cat was not added till after the 5th oil change. And the car smelt more like a petrol but with less burnt oil smell. Made me happy. Plus I think my girl was more than happy she purred much more smoothly and sounded way more energetic.

Anyway I did my 8th one yesterday. And no lumps nothing, Very very smooth oil, but still very dark. But I notice when looking through the top o the motor where the oil cap is and looking down it looks way cleaner and less dry. Now when it is running there is a small trickle of oil were there never was any. So she is coming to life again. Well I think. Sounds good. No taped sounds, not even on a very cold morning. Plenty of power gets up and goes faster than dad 06 accord ivtec which has only 75,000kms on it and bought at 40,000kms I think.

So thought I would give you a run down of my poor Christine. Named that due to the fact the day she was fixed with the long winded tranny issue the and who was paying for it and made the bad calls all alone had a heart attack and died.

Just so you know the ODO has hit 150,006kms. So now to travel another 1,000,000 then more. Just keep fixing and fixing. This car is mine for life.

mac

Hey,

I just did for the 1st time a simple 0-100km/hr, in my 1995.5 30r!

Now I know the car can do it in 2 gears. But I did it in 3. 1st did not go past 5,000 then 2nd 4,500 3rd 4,5000 4 2,500 was at 100km/hr this was done in 9.3 seconds.
Not pushing it at all.

So what can it do? Want to know, but don't want to find out, and hurt my baby 30r!

Diamante 2001

I'm trying to get the check engine light to turn off, checked the codes at Autozone, got P0403 which is a malfunctioning EGR Valve ($118). I took it off, cleaned it out real good, put it back on and still getting the codes. It wasn't horribly dirty and the pin seemed to move back and forth easily with finger pressure.

Wanting to make sure it was the EGR Valve by narrowing it down first, since it's expensive, I disconnected the vacuum hoses to make sure they were clean...they were good to go, but now i have this piece (pics below) and I'm not sure what it does, or which way to put it back on. Pictures below. First, what is it and could this be the causing the codes to read bad EGR Valve. Second, when putting it back on, does the "S" or the "Z" go toward the EGR Valve? I don't want to put it on backwards.

Note: It seems like the EGR Valve is not opening at high speeds. The codes only kick in once i've gone above like 45 mph. I can press the valve manually when it's idling and it almost makes the engine die. Also, when I disconnect the vacuum hoses altogether when idling, it doesn't change the engine running or rpms.

any help would be much appreciated.

I need to replace rotors and pads this weekend. I have not completed a brake job in a while but have done many in the past. I plan on purchasing parts from Napa - ceramic and their better rotors. Before I jump in and get into a bind are there any words of wisdom and/or reference materials for brake replacement for this generation of Diamante (2002 mocel year)? Should I consider AutoZone Duralast better rotors and pads as an alternative to Napa?

Thanks!

PS - Last brake job was @ 40K miles - Now I have 76K and I have severe pedal vibration at high speed - rotors are not looking real good either pitted extensively. The most recent brake inspection revealed rear pads have 10% remaining and fronts have 30% remaining..

Thanks in advance!!

Hi Guys,

I have a 2001 Verada 3.5 Ei. Its done about 177,000 and still going strong. It has a complete service history with the mitsubishi dealer.

I've noticed that the car is running two divisions above normal operating temp. I've never seen this before in this car so I washed out the radiator and replaced it with fresh coolant (Tectaloy). But I still have the same problem. (I've moved to karratha AUS from perth AUS for this year)

It could be the radiator or the water pump or something as simple as the temp sensor housing. Its being sent for servicing on the 16th Aug 2010. The head gasket is ok, there are no bubbles comming up in the radiator fluid and the oil in the engine is normal. The fluid levels all check out. Does any one have any ideas of what I can do or at least what I should be expecting from the dealership in karratha? ($300 for a minor service btw :|).

Cheers

Hey,

Well so far the 2 Mivec Diamantes down my way I would not touch with out a sledge hammer. Really rooted, crashed and oil dripping all over the place from trany and motor.
So now just to find another one. What really made me so mad, they wanted $3,000 and $4,000, for junk.
With that in mind what to do? There is a few floating around with dead motors after cam belts have been broken! Should I nab one of them for $500 and add new motor?
Or just wait till one pops up on line? They are so hard to find down my way. Not to bad in the City like Christchurch or Auckland. But not down my way. [New Zealand so you know]

So what should I do? Really don't know what to do? There is a tone of the 30r and 3.0 GDI all over with low to high kays dirt cheap. I am wondering how would I got in getting the mivec motor into one? What would be needed and what would the bill possibly be?

Cheers,

mac

Edit. Just want to get one of the best cars before they become extinct.

Hi guys,

i have a 99 verada Ei:Kf and i can't seem to get the heater working.
I've tried the following

-placed the temperature to 32degree
-waited a good 5 mins and nothing
-increased the fan speed to max at 32 degrees and still nothing
-took it for a drive for a gd 1/2 hr and tried using the heating again. (nothing)

I checked the heater fuse (close to the driver side) and it was not blown.


Any ideas pls?

The button on the top of my shifter has broken. It's the one you push down to shift from park to reverse, or drive...I replaced the handle once already for the same reason. The tabs on the sides of the button that keep it from coming out of the handle have broken. Does anyone have a nice trick to repair the button so it stays on. Thanks everyone...

The time has come for the belt to be repalced on my 2004 3.5 litre Verada. Anyone know of any links where instructions can be found to do this. Regards. Jack

Hey,

As some of you know I am very happy with my Diamante. Same as Kit the ban of brothers defending these wonderful cars.
Anyway I did a good measure this time. As some will know the model I have has a 70lt tank. So I did 650kms of driving.
The driving was a mix of over taking, high way driving or 200kms, which was mixed with country driving, hills bends and lot's of speeding up all the time.
Then the last part of the driving 450kms was mixed town driving. Lights stopping starting ect.
Anyway when I filled the car up it only took 50lt. So when that is divided by the kms traveled by the 50lt it adds up to 13km to 1lt. Which to me is not the best it has done, but by far better than any small car.
Like the 1999 2.2 toyota camry. I had one had 27,000kms when I bought it and had 37,000 when sold. Way to heavy on fuel. But this bigger motor. Cheaper to run. And way more power.

mac

Is anybody able to educate me on how to remove the door trim from a 1997 Verada KE EI?
Just need to do the driver and passanger doors to replace the speakers.

As I've posted many times now, I have a 1995 Mitsi Diamante 25V (f31a).

About 6-7 months ago, the ECU cut out completely and switched over to a 'backup' according to the auto-electricians fixing it. I don't know if its a coincidence but it had been raining pretty heavily and I had my car outside for a few days prior to ECU cutting out - the reason I mention this is because a couple of days later while between 'appointments' with the auto-electricians, it started working again (possibly dried out?).

It's worked fine since then, until just the other day when again it had been raining and the car was left outside (again, could just be coincidence). I first thought that it had switched to the backup ECU as it was behaving the same as the time 6-7months ago - i.e. no lights on dash for gear state/current gear, no beeping when reversing, foglamps dont come on, and window wiper interval doesnt work. But I noticed more recently, that the foglamps will come on after about 1min of leaving them switched on, and window wipers will work w/ intervals occcasionally. It's pretty random what works and what doesnt, but is all associated to ECU. Also the petrol level gauge only changes when first starting car, doesnt alter when driving, infact it very slowly rises, also various sensor warning lights come on and stay on every time i start it like oil light and battery light, one time the near-empty petrol light came on.

So it seems more likely that a few components on the ECU have gone out rather than the whole thing 'taking a rest' and switching over to the backup. Before doing anything drastic like getting a whole new ECU, is there something I can do to reset it / other tricks i can try? I havent yet checked it for any physical/obvious damage and don't really know where it is, but read somewhere that its located below stereo mounts in center of dashboard?
If I do need to replace it, is it as simple as finding a scrapped diamante of same chassis/engine numbers and plug that ECU into my car?

thanks for your help.

I have an unusual problem with my auto trans. I managed to get Mitsubishi Australia to replace my original box under warranty. They only fit re manufactured gearboxes from Fluid drive Australia. So far I've had 3 successive re manufactured boxes fitted in the last 3-4 months. So far supplied with differing faults which were
1. Diff noise-whining between 40 -70 Km/h
2. delayed D engagement, jamming selector shaft going N-D and even harder going D-N with cold gearbox

and currently No.3. Diff noise-whining 50-70 Km/h, Shocks whilst coasting, gearbox felt like it went neutral with shock, then back into gear with shock lifting off around 50 Km/h.

My latest box is doing something weird. When I coast and lift off the throttle when the Idle switch is activated I get this jolt and Engine RPM drops suddenly, then moments later another jolt and RPM goes back to where it was. The TPS is brand new as it was replaced for another issue which it has not fixed. The same symptoms were present with the old TPS as well.

This condition only occurs with the gearbox at operating temp and coincidentally when it is hot enough for the TCC to be enabled. There does not appear to be anything unusual with the TCC lockup, it locks when it should, no shudder and no slip. It is also a little intermittent and occurs at speeds below 80 Km/h, always when coasting when the idle switch is activated.

When i come back on the throttle at exactly the same position with the idle switch turning off , the engine RPM dips slightly again as i sweep through this switch position. Sometimes you can feel it but generally it's the Tachometer that give it away.

This week I was driving at work at a constant 50 Km/h and started to lift off as i approached my car park, at the point the throttle hit the idle switch there was a huge jolt, RPM dropped simultaneously to idle speed and then another big jolt back to where it was. It kind of felt like the gearbox dropped to neutral and then back to gear with large shock.
I'm not sure if it went back to the same gear or not because it generally goes down to 2nd around the 40 Km/h mark.

I know that when the idle switch is activated the Damper clutch Solenoid valve goes to 0% duty or switched off.

I have a theory that it's in the TCC or damper Clutch circuit. I don't know whether it's a pressure problem, Solenoid issue or maybe a faulty or sticking TCC control valve in the Valve Body.

With a cold gearbox it operates perfectly.

Has anyone ever experienced such a weird thing?

Somehow I have to prove to Mitsubishi there's a problem otherwise I'm now stuck with a bigger problem than I first started with my original box.

Any clues on proving what's good or bad?

This vid I found. It is of the 1995.5-1996 Diamante mivec.
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Now I was in one for a test drive and yes they have a good punch. IME pretty much the same as the vtec at 5,000-6,000rpm kick in point, just way more smoother and I could see with would beat me to top speed. But I think they would be pretty close though.
Now down to the the subject. Mine is the 30r 24v DOHC v6 6g72 5 speed auto. And I am not kidding I can get to 180 faster than that, with less revs needed and standing start. Not thrashing just going from 1st 600rpm -4,5000rpm 2nd I change at 5,000rpm, 3rd I change at 5,000rpm, 4th I change at 4,500rpm and then I am at the 180 speed limiter.

And shock of shock it is only using 9km-1lt Dam good at that speed, not only that it is very good at handling at that speed. Not wallowing or swaying. Just strait dead to the road, and around bends not sharp ones just normal bends that you would not care to take at speed, but still bends. I am falling deeper in love with this car.

My car has the same kays as it, and always has a full tank of fuel and some odds and ends to add to the weight. Not to mention I had it on the limiter the other day speed limiter that is, and it was sitting at 3,800rpm in 5th. Clearly way under the 4,000rpm mark unlike the one on the vid! Or am I missing something?

Also with the revs it is doing what would it's top speed be? 260km/hr?

What I don't get is it is not fast yet it has 33kw more mine. Well take off a few because I have changed the exhaust a bit.

So any thoughts?

mac

New poster, have a TE Magna, never missed a beat in 7 years. Go to start it last night before work, starts, runs rough, after 30 seconds i decide to touch the accelerator, it stalls, and refuses to restart, not even any kicks on cranking.

Thought it was flooded, tried opening throttle right up while cranking, even unplugging injector main connector, and reattaching, no go. Left for 6 hours, still no go, could still smell raw fuel from exhaust while cranking (thus the flooded thought).

No check engine message (lamp ok), no stored error codes.
Spark on two tested plugs.
Front plugs removed, normal color, all ok, replaced front plugs anyway.
reseated all plugs I can see in engine bay.
All fuses OK
Fuel pump working on crank, can hear fuel in rails, but cannot feel it, might just be me.
Tried resetting ECU by dissconnect.


Car ran perfect Sunday, wed night this happens.

I do have a coolant leak, i suspect from the top throttle body hose, but not dead sure, did see coolant dripping near firewall, dripping off gearshift cable. It drank about a litre when topped up, but system has been pressurizing over the past few weeks, so i wrongly though whatever had leaded, had resealed itself. (Also forgot that the reserve tank wont drop when air leak present in cooling system). I don't know if the coolant leak is connected to the sudden no-go problem.

Next ports of call,

Test spare key (Have spare stored off-site)
ISC Motor, don't think I'm hearing it on key turn to ON.
Pinch test return fuel line, instead of just feeling it.
Temp sensor, in case of failure due to coolant issue. ECU defaults to 80 degrees substitution, and may prevent starting in the cold.
Manual says listen for injectors, in the past I heard them, but didnt notice them today, will check again tomorrow.

Would really appreciate other peoples input on this one. never been stumped by a car before, but this one has got me lost for ideas.

Thanks in advance, will post progress here as they happen.

Hey,

Just came back from works. Since I am in the country I don't care about how I speed. Normally sit at 120. But today I sat at 150km, at 3,000rpm.

It handled fairly good. But a wee bit wallowly? Any way to fix it? With out hurting the interior? Reason I say that is I have heard of quite a few people who mod Diamantes which have issues with the interior going to hell once they toughen up the shocks ect. I don't want to lower it. Just make it a wee bit better on corners ect. Dose any one have any good NZ parts to get?

I was also recommenced getting my ecu modified. So to get better air fuel mix set up over the rev range. But was quoted nearly $1,000 to do it. What is that all about??

Cheers,

mac

Here's a good one:

In my TP Magna, the gearbox recently decided that it wouldn't go into gear in Drive when it's warmed up. It does it when cold and also when going into L, 2 or R (and of course N). So I guess it isn't failsafe 3rd or the like.

The funny thing is, when I do it once waiting at the lights, and nothing happens, if I immediately go into Neutral and back to Drive, it engages gear immediately and I can drive away without having to go into Low or 2nd.

I've checked the oil and it is enough while not being too much. It's at the cold mark on a cold engine while on a flat surface.

The oil is mostly new oil due to doing some bearing work on it recently and losing quite a bit of oil, but it isn't related to that incident as it was happening less often before.

I don't think the gear shift lever is to blame or it would be more random. It's almost as if when the car warms up, something happens to the box that stops it from engaging in Drive after a stop but which does do it on the second attempt every time without fail. Obviously not a critical problem as yet and it does go up hills as good as ever.

Any ideas on this would be very helpful. I think they'd cost at least $800 to get overhauled. I have a spare that I'll put it if it gets undriveable but it's much smarter to nip these things in the bud before they get out of hand.

Curioso

Ok, I bought a can of EZ chill to boost my a/c and i am having trouble finding the low side port, at least i think iam? anyways, I see the large aluminum pipe that connects to the a/c compressor(the one that gets cold when a/c is on) and the actual port on it has a small pin in the middle and the ez chill pressure gauge thing also has a pin in the middle of it too which is cause it to not fit. the only other port i see is way too small for the pressure gauge to fit. Do i have the right pipe, if not then where is it? I can post pics or a youtube video link if needed. Any help is greatly appreiciated

oh yeah its a 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante SOHC V6

I have a 2003 magna stn wgn advance and the auto trans will go into reverse but the shifter go,s a bit stiff when you try to put into neutral or drive and will not go into gear also if the motor is turned off the car will not roll when in neutral or drive but will roll if turned off while the car is in reverse. Any ideas?

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Man I would love to take mine on it and let it loose.

Hi, part time unregistered reader, first time poster.

I have a japanese make 1995, 2.5L v6 Daimante's automatic transimission.

The car, after its been driven for 10+ minutes, will jerk really hard when going from N, R or P into Drive.
If the car has been stationary for at least a few hours, going into D doesn't seem to jerk at all.
When driving, shifting from 1, 2, 3 and 4 is smooth. Shifting from 4 to 5 lags a little bit.
Down shifting from 5 to 4 is better then the upshift. Shifting from 4, 3, 2 to 1 is okay.
The biggest issue I have isn't so much the jerk of the car when going into D (though I wouldn't mind if that gets fixed) but when I've been driving at least 15 minutes.

After 15 minutes of driving, a new problem comes into play. When I bring the car to a stop, I can see the gears downchanging.
When it goes from 3rd straight to 1st (this is normal) it will actually slip out of 1st and into N and won't go back into 1st unless I accelerate a little, which in turn jerks the car really hard back into 1st.

The same thing happens when I go into tiptronic.

I've had 3 mechanics tell me I need to rebuild my transmission. It would cost me around $2200 - $3000, the car itself isn't really worth that.

I just don't understand how they can tell me to rebuild my transmission when the car actually works fine to start the day or after a bit of a rest.

Any help, suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.