Hey

On a friend's TP, I repaired the Rear Demister/Defogger Tab with a Permatex repair kit for both the tab adhesive and gridlines. After steaming up the rear window almost totally though, the demister didn't work.

Any ideas why? The fuse was fine (20 amp).

Originally I took the job on because while the cable was being reconnected to one of the tabs recently, the tab broke off the grid.

Curioso

1993 Diamante Wagon

6G72 SOHC (per bank)

runs fine cold and warming up, when hot(operating temp) the spark goes away, comes back after it cools off.

Just got a 93 manga 2.6L, and it get hot and the fans dont come on, so I have been using the A/C to kick the fans on.
Just installed a a new thremo there was not one .
so here is the first Q in what direction do I install the new thermo stat? with the butt going into the Housing or the butt going into the manifold??

Next question, what else would be the prob with the fans bad sensor some were?


thanks Sean

Can someone please advice the reason behind this issue, i'm not entirely well versed with cars.

I have a verada Ei:Kf. Whenever i start the car (initial start in the morning or back from work), there's always this knocking sound that occurs for a good few mins.It then goes away when i've driven for a few mins. Is there something wrong with the engine?

Here is the scenario...

I dropped a penny in the console lighter socket and blew the accessory fuse. I replaced it and ever since I've been having a weird problem

The driver side door lock doesn't work when the ignition is off. I can only lock the doors from the passenger side. The funny thing is , it only works when the ignition is on but it wont work when the car is off?

What the hell is going on???

Hi just purchased a 97 Verada KE Xi - runs sweet, has some quirky things going on, horn not working, drivers seat wants to turn sideways (think motor is no good on one side??). Prev owner took stacker with him so all we have is crackling - quiet - kinda nice though! Would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction for a manual so I can figure some of this out, thanks!!

Hey fellas, I am in need of doing a rear brake job on my 97 LS. I do not like to take my car to the shop to get ripped off. I was wondering if there was some write up of how to do the rears on the D. I must say that I'm a pretty good mechanic, so I should be able to tackle this job. I do all of my own work with the exception of water pumps and timing belts and trans jobs. I hope I can get some type of response on this one. Thanks in advance.

Replaced a starter motor on a Mitsubishi magna TR executive V6 93.
Turn the key and I can hear it engage but it is only touching the outer part of the flywheel.
Took it off and I can see the wear on the outer part of the flywheel (from the new starter motor)
I don't really want to give up on this one but I don't want to end up having to replace the flywheel by being stubborn.
Has anyone replaced the starter before and is there a knack to it that they would mind sharing with me?

Signed persistent

While i was looing into the actuator motor click I disconnected the passenger airbag and turned the car on with that connector disconnected. I read on another post that it can only be reset by a machine. Is this true? I have a 99 diamante and everything is hooked back up. Thanks.

Hi there, Is anyone know how to install the angel eyes on para headlight and where I can purchase them from (either from eBay)?
I found few products on eBay but I need the diameter of the para headlight but I cant measure without open it up ...so anyone know what the exact diameter is?


Thanks mate

im wondering about putting a pod filter on. any one already done this etc? tips etc?

Hi Guys

Just want to know if you can buy those plastic expansion plug type things that hold the plastic parts to the metal parts. Such as the underbody splash guards to the chassis, or the air filter induction nozzle to the front radiator support.

The plastic expansion things work with a plastic phillips headed countersunk screw that pushes into the plastic bushing, expanding it and retaining your plastic part. To remove you unscrew the phillips headed screw and pop the plastic part.

Done some work and had to destroy a few as I couldn't get the plastic screw out, lost a few, you know how it goes?

Do you have to scrounge a wreckers yard, go to a Mitsu Dealer, or there is aftermarket available? as I know my kids commodore has a number of these things too...

Thanks!

Hi, I was wondering if someone could tell me what type of bulb I need to replace the licence plate lamp on my 1990 TP Magna; part no., wattage, etc. The Operator's Manual doesn't say.

Also, when this bulb fails, the filament should be broken like an ordinary incandescent bulb, right? Because the light isn't working and I took the bulb out, but it doesn't look broken. There is some blackening around the bulb fitting which looks unusual, though.

Cheers

Hello

I'm looking the the torque specs for the bolt in the harmonic balancer.

1994 Mitsubishi Diamante 3.0 DOHC

Thanks

Battery is good; get nothing; i.e., no cranking of starter at all when key is turned. Car has been sitting out all winter and just put new battery in as old one needed replacing anyway. Probably the starter / solenoid but just wondering if there is a fuse or something I may be overlooking.

hello out there... can anyone give me some information on the black fuse box under the hood of my 1992 diamante LS. can the AC fuse be causing my unit to come on at different times..if this is true, how do I change that fuse. any information you can give about this box will be highly appreciated.

Hi all,

Today i had the shifter replaced in the missus 93 model 2.6l magna. The reason i had this done as i was advised by an auto elec that the overdrive button was rooted and that it was easier to replace the whole shifter. I took the car to the mitsubishi wreckers and got them to install a second hand shifter. All is good now overdrive works perfectly however the shifter is loose and has a sloppy feel to it as in i can wiggle it around a few millimeters side to side. The old shifter was as tight as a nun's cu#t and i'm wondering if it's worth taking it back to get them to adjust it up and tighten it a little. To be honest i have never driven an auto where the shifter has been this loose/sloppy before. It is not affecting gear changes however i do not believe that it should be as it is. Should the shifter fit tight and snug or do some have a sloppy/loose feel to them?

cheers - matthew

hello all. I would appreciate any help you can give concerning my problem. It all started when my ac/heater control stop working properly. The unit would come on sometimes and sometimes it would not. The fan will often come on in the off position. the air and heat works fine when it comes on. The problem is I had no idea when it would .

Now my radio, cd, and car alarm is doing the same thing...I took the car to Pep boys and they told me my problem was in the ac/heat control head...this they said would cost $545 plus $175 to install.
I was able to secure a used head from a slavage yard for much less but it still did not work. I hope someone out there can help because I know that I cannot afford the Dealer's cost for this. Please help if you can...It gets very hot in the summer here.

Hey there

I've got a 91 TR magna. When driving it has started to change gear all on it's own. It can drop back from top to 1st or second, it almost conks out.

I was told it could be the computer transmission controller thing (not sure of its real name)

I disconected the battery and left it for a minute and it drove OK for about 10 minutes. Then it started playing up again.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Hi, trying to install an amp into my 03 Diamante LE (righthand drive).
These new cars are so tight now, never had trouble running the power cable through a gromet to the inside before.
Just cant seem to find a way...
Please help.... I NEED SOME BASS!!!!
Thanks in advace to everyone

Hi all. Just wanting to know how i can retard the timing on a mates 2.6lt magna. there is no diagnostic port under bonnet as stated in manual so am a bit stumped. all advice appreciated

Hey people, I have a little question for you all. I have a 97 diamante LS. I think that my switch cluster on the driver side door is going out. When letting my driver side window down, I must kinda ****le with the switch to get it to go down and then, it usually goes all the way down and won't stop. Also the left mirror has a problem moving with the switch. Also, what would make the heated mirrors stop heating. I am at a loss right now. Please HELP....

hello again...I need someone to explain the usage of the black fuse box under the hood of my 92 diamante LS. I know about the fuse box inside on the driver's side. I believe my ac/heater is somehow having problems because I hear a clicking inside the box when I connect the battery. I know there are answers out there..please help

Ok a summary... My father has a 99 Diamante with California emissions (just the car, we are in New York), with a cat on either side of the engine, and another under the car. He once had one of the side cats replaced, and the part was over a grand. Mitsubishi parts are notorious I know, but that's over the top I feel :-P. Anyhoo, he has an intermittent service engine soon light, and has been told by the mechanic that it's a result of the cat being clogged (the one under the car), which I assume is an O2 sensor code. I have a few questions here...

I looked on Rockauto, and there are cats for around $200, but they all specify not for cars "licensed" in California. Does this mean it actually won't fit on the California emissions car, or that it simply won't pass California standards? Basically, I want to know if one of these can be put on my father's without any problems or codes tripping (for inspection and such). I wasn't sure if the computer or any other issues were different or problematic--like if the service light would trip because of the fact that it's a California car. I have a hunch it would fit, as the bit on Rockauto says not "legal" for sale out of CA, not that it won't work, but I don't want to advise him of this and then have the light trip and have to get the more expensive one anyway.

Also, is there a way to press anything on the dash/stereo area to pull up a list of tripped codes, and also clear them? I'm a Cadillac guy, and there is such a feature, but I'm unfamiliar with this setup. If not, how does one check and clear codes on this car?

97 Diamonte 3.5 L

Start it up, runs fine for a few seconds then idles up fast. Stabalizes again for a few seconds then fast again. Does this 4-5 times then dies.

The car was recently brought to me because of the inconsistent idle but I didn't have time to look into it. Then his timing belt (stationary) pully and water pump locked up. When he pulled it back I rotated the engine by hand to TDC, the cam sprockets weren't perfectly aligned (one was a couple of teeth). I replaced the pump, pulley and belt, lined all the marks up and got her fired back up. Has a light peck near the #1 cyl but otherwise sounds great until it idles up and down (then dies).

Couple of questions...

1. If it had incurred any serious damage when the pulley gave out (bearings literally separated from the wheel leaving slack in the belt) wouldn't it have some terrible noise now? Owner was not sure if the pecking noise was there before.

2. I know it had the inconsistent idle before but it didn't die. The owner said he stripped a bolt out in the intake (air) on a previous repair (why he brought it to me initially). Would an air leak cause this much of an idle issue?

By the way, their is no MIL light on and no soft codes stored in memory.

I'm a little reluctant to fire it back up until I have a better idea of the idle / die problem (until I'm confident he didn't bend / warp a valve) especially sine I have very little solid performance history on the car.

All thoughts greatly appreciated.

My 2002 Diamonte LS continues to have an interesting problem (has had this issue for years)... When driven for at least a half hour - freeway driving mostly - and then parked for more than 30 minutes if I restart the car the idle is very rough - almost stalls - if I give it some gas it returns to normal in a few seconds.. Any troubleshooting ideas? Less than 30 minutes no issue.... More than about an hour no issues..

I did clean the throttle body which made a difference in the idle during normal driving circumstamces when you stop in traffic but did not impact this issue.

Thanks

Hello, I've just bought a 1994 Sigma 3.0 V6 Auto Estate. It's called a Sigma in the UK, not sure in other markets (Magna? Diamante?). It's a UK registered, Australian built car anyway. They are very rare over here - maybe only a couple of hundred were ever registered.

I've read through several posts on here about overdrive problems, but mine is somewhat different. In normal gentle driving with OD on, I have all 4 gears selecting correctly. If I travel at 60mph and switch OD off it changes down to 3rd correctly, and if it turn it back on it changes back up to 4th (overdrive). All good so far! The problem I'm having though is that on hard acceleration it "misses" 4th (overdrive). At about 60 it tries to change up, but then just revs as if in neutral (similar to what I understand would happen if the OD end clutch pack had gone), however, if I then back off, it finds 4th (overdrive) after a couple of seconds. If I just gently accelerate, it all seems to work fine.

From the above behaviour, I assume that all the electrics are working fine, but that some mechanical part has become sluggish/sticky can this happen? Do I need a new OD clutch? Could it be a sticky solenoid? Does the Auto box fluid also lubricate the overdrive? Would a fluid change help matters?

Any help you can give me would be great.

Thank In advance.

Rob

Hi hope someone can help out with this one..
I have a 2002 TJ Magna, 3.5 auto. And the other day when i went to drive, i selected D and nothing happened, i thought it might not have engaged properly so shifted it down to 3rd and back up to D and it seemed to be ok, but then i noticed that it only went up to 3rd gear. everything else was fine, not flashing N, just top gear was 3rd, it would shift down gears as normal when slowing, even while sitting in D.
So the last couple of days, playing around what i have deduced is that it will not engage Drive when shifting from Neutral, but l,2,3 all engage the transmission to drive but just never reach top gear. I found also that while driving at speeds when it should have been in top gear, if i shift from D to Neutral and then back to D, i can feel the gearbox engage, but when i depress the accelerator there is no response, i have to shift it to 3 to engage the transmission to drive.

From reading the forums, what i guess is it could be a few things, the coolant leaking onto the TCM, the selector not adjusted correctly(i don't think this one) the input/output shaft speed sensors, or hydraulic pressure in the box itself)

Any ideas out there? or anyone else have a similar problem..

Anybody from down under know if Easy Boy has any of the SOHC 3.5 Diamante manifolds left for sale to US

hi..my engine light comes on when I start my 92 diamante and goes off in a few seconds. After I drive about two miles, it comes on again and stays on ...can anyone give me some idea why this happens. Thanks from a beginner

Hey all

Today i was driving my much loved magna TR 1992

Down in newcastle

we where driving along, the check engine, light come on, for around 30 secounds we where trying to find somewhere to pull over

Not long after engine cut out, and we rolled to the side, we tryed to start the car, 3 secounds when it starts up engine dies, could hear loud clicking from passanger side glovebox area

And engine is making some werid noise's

so we tryed to start again over the next 30 mins, it got going, again check engine light was on, than powerdown again, and car wouldent start again, every 2-3 secounds car would make a clicking sound and power down

Got car towed home,

2 hours later turned it on, car starts dosent cut out, and check engine light is on??

What do i do buy a new ecu??? what else could it be i have no idea

any ideas to fix this, we are going on a trip in 1 week about 500KM/S

Hey there everyone,

Just wondering if there is another engine from any other cars that will fit into a 94 magna with minimal fuss? Not concerned so much with performance, just fed up with an inability to find decent engine that doesn't need to be rebuilt!

I'd appreciate any suggestions Thanks

I noticed that there is a clicking noise when I change my air aorce from internal to ecxternal. I have a 99 diamante with the electronic climate control. I took apart the dash tonight and looked and saw that everything was working but the strange thing it only does it when the AC compressor is on. If the the AC is selected but the car is not running the mode motor changes without any problem. As soon as I turn the engine on an the comrpessor starts it will clikc when I change from internal to external air. It usually will stop clicking after a 20-30 seconds but it can't be good on it. Any Ideas as to why it would onlky be doing it when the compressor is running. I aslo notice that that particular mode motor only operates when the AC mode is selected. The mode motor I am talking about is in the center behing the ash tray

I have a 99 diamante with 140000 miles on it. I have never had the transmission fluid change or the system flushed because everybody I took it to for service said it looked ok. I am pretty sure it needs it now becuase it is shifting wierd sometimes. Espesially sifting from 3rd to 4th. it seems as if it is taking longer for it to shift out of 3rd into 4th. I called a transmission place and they said I might not want to change the fluid since it has never been done because the new fluid may degrade the seals and cause me more problems. Is this a true statement. I am not going to take it to this guy but will take to a dealer.

Joe

Hi Guys maybe you can help, my brother is having a problem with a 1996 3l R Diamante saloon, on the drivers window only, if he pushes the switch to send it down if he lets it go at 1/2 way the windows then drives all the way to the bottom, and stays there,if he pushes the switch to go back up nothing happens at all, if he trys in 1/2 an hour the windows moves up an inch at a time, and you have to release the switch and try again and it moves another inch up, the local Garage has replaced the motor and switch assembly but it is still the same problem any help appreciated, it's not proving to be a lot of fun after you put the window down to swipe an exit card at a car park and its raining.

Best regards
lambo

Hey all, Im new to the forums here. I used to belong to the diamanteowners.com forum but for some reason that site was shut down, so until now, I've been homeless. I have a '97 Diamante LS and I had 2 obd II codes. P0403, I think and a P0443. I have fixed the 1st code and I was wondering if there was anyone here that could help me figure out what the problem could possibly be. I do know that the p0443 code is the "emmission control purge valve c" code. I would greatly appreciate any help that I could get from you guys...

Time for a timing belt change on my sons car. Does anyone have any pointers or a service manual? Thanks

Let me preface this with the fact I am female and know NOTHING about cars and am hoping you can point me in the right direction.

We purchased a 2002 Verada 3 weeks ago, it test drove fine, and even for the next day or so. My husband went to drive to work and it the lights were flashing between Neutral and Drive, and the tiptronic would not work. Seemed to be in 3rd gear. I had a bit of a read on here and saw somebody talking about a failsafe mode.

We took it to our mechanic who said it was the input or output speed sensor and this was very common with Magna's, he used some diagnostic tool which confirmed it was the input. He then replaced both (he said its better to do both), but this failed to fix the problem, so he put the old ones back.

He gave the transmission a service, and the only thing this accomplished was the car now stalls at lights and does not idle high enough, he tells us the car needs to "re-learn" some things, whatever that means! He tells us the computer shows zero voltage going to it but that this "makes no sense". He thinks it could be the computer has failed or even a wire is loose or broken somewhere and that we should take the car to an auto-electrician.

So we don't know what's wrong after a week and a money down the drain for a transmission service we didn't need.

Help!

Hello everyone. I have a 98 Diamante LS. It has 172,000 miles, we are the original owners and the car is completely stock, minus regular service. The car runs like a dream, it has never died on us while driving, and still runs 16.2s all night.

The car only has one problem. A little over a year ago i went outside to let the car warm up before work and it refused to crank. It would turn over and over, but wouldn't start. You can also smell raw fuel. It was raining that morning. The next day it started right up, it was sunny. Ever since then when it is raining outside, and the car hasn't been running that day, it will not crank.

Now, if the car is already running and it starts raining it will run fine. I can even shut it off and it will start right up again. I've let the car run and spray water under it, and nothing happens at all.

We are to the point of selling this car. I do not want to do this, as it has been a wonderful car, and still runs excellent, except when it's raining.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a bunch,

Kyle

Hello my name is corey

Couple of months back i baught a Magna TR 1992 SE i think, i traded my skyline 1985 i think for it , plus the guy gave me 250$ and the car had 10 months rego and my old one had 8 months,(Skyline was full of rust, and slastic)

Once i got the car i dident notice some problems i found which i was not told about

Heater Dose not work, at all, Aircon, near radiator has a hole up the top of it

Thermo Fans are wired up to the ignition so it starts everytime

Within the last week i have been trying to start the car and it will take 10-30 mins to start, moving key back and forth in the ignition to start the car, hard to move the key., not sure if its the steering wheel lock or the ignition

The petrol meter dosent work very well this died about 2 days ago, says i have been on half a tank for 2 days, now was driving it today and it droped very fast not sure if its slow or broken

the car can only do say 250-300KMS per a 50LTR tank on a trip, sometimes less around town

boot started leaking, but no rust at all in the car,

And sometimes when i am driving the car, it will drop down to 5KMS, and start shakeing, and shakeing, and blowing some smoke, once i turn the car off and back on, will not do it again for weeks

And the water in the radiator, / keeps going dry, and overflow is filling up to the top it can go, and radiator is not pulling it back in, (radiator cap dose not tighten up)

I dont think there is a thermstat in the car

Also dose anyone have a idea how to fix the cable which pops the boot, fuel thing, as its threaded into bits and have to get a spanner to open them

previous powner got a new engine for it, and gear box, from someone for 350$, gear box dose not skip, and goes into gear good, drives nice its a 4 cyl, (2.6)

Any ideas? how to fix any of it, and how much it would cost

going to do a oil/air filter change this payday, maybe get a new radiator cap? anything else

Hi everybody, i just bought a new car. Private seller

2003 Mitsubishi Magna ES TL, 3.5 L V6 155kW, Black very shiny, mag wheels, nice head unit, will post pictures soon. Its done 64,000km, got it for $8800

I have noticed a few problems with it.

1. The brakes squeak a little on the last 20%, just like my 94 Magna, but not as bad. what should i do about it? Seems to be a Magna thing. My old car's brakes were pretty hard, and would squeak immidiately, but my new 03's brakes are pretty soft, and only squeak a little towards the very end

2. There definately is a shudder with the car. Not like a shake, but a backwards and forwards shudder. It's fine on idle, no shake or nothing. Only whilst driving, very slight, but definately noticable, a slight shaking shift backwards and forwards, at all speeds. The speedo needle stays stable. My old car used to do this too, but that was just when it was sturggling up hills at 100km/h. but this shudder is the same sort of, but just not as bad. its slight, but still there and noticable. I tested the transmission, but suddenly revving it at 50km/h. If i suddenly rev with my old car, there would be a 1 second delay and then CLUNK, revs forward. But this one is very smooth with sudden revving. any ideas?

3. And when it changes gear at 40km/h and 60km/h, there is a gear change felt as with manual cars (slight smooth drop in speed then speed up again). Its 4ASPM, whatever that means, so is it just like a manual car but automatic? In my old 94 Magna, i didn't feel the change, it seemed to be all smooth, although somewhat slower

Can anybody help me out?

here are the specs: http://www.countrycars.com.au/buy/market_v...p;body=4D+SEDAN

Cheers fellas

Hello!
I was hoping someone on here is familiar enough with cars to help me figure this out. I am not much of a car savvy person, more into computers, but I can try to describe my problem as best I can. I was driving along and was almost home going up a hill and the car decided to turn off. I coasted it into my driveway where it sits now. I can start the car and everything but when I shift it intro drive, reverse, or any of the other options the car won't move. The engine revs up in all the gears but it won't move. My first thought was that I fried something and I unplugged the battery and let it sit for about 5 minutes before restarting the car. Soo, anyone know what I did wrong? is she dead?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.

Where can I find one? 3.5 Liter I searched here and found nothing?!?
Thanks
Rick

Sorry I found the manual online. Problem solved!

hi there i have a 4g63 sohc turbo engine that im putting in my 1978 sigma witch has ae 4g32 . just wondering if my gearbox will fit or will i have to get 4g63 box?
and im wanting to put an lsd in the sigma and was wondering is starion or ex lancers will fit

hay guys just wondering if the old 4g54 2.6 l200 engine will fit into my 4g32 1978 sigma

I have a bad right rear ABS speed sensor. Brand new ones are expensive so I want to see if I can find one at a junk yard. What other models/years use the same speed sensors as my car? I have a 1999 Diamante. Diamantes are hard to find since they didn't import very many of them each year. Thanks in advance.

Every now and again my brake and battery annunciators come on. Most of the time if I turn the car off and back on the lights clear. Now a bit of history. About a year ago, I had my timing belt change at the 120,000 mile service. While I was driving home those two annunciator lights came on and off for thg majority of the 900 mile trip. Once I got to home I noticed they were on and staying on. Eventually the car died due to lack of electrical power. I took it to the shop where I was having the belt change and he tested the alternator and it was bad. I had that replaced and the lights went away for a couple weeks but then they started coming on and off periodically. Sometimes they come on more often than others.

Now on to my current situation. Last night as I was driving to the movies the lights came on but I turned the car off and back on and they went away as usual. However, after the movie while driving home the lights came on and when I got to the gas station I turned the car off, filled up and then turned it back on and the lights were still on. I continued to drive home with the annunciators on and noticed that the dash lighs were kind of dim and that the head lights were dim. When I got to the stop light, I turned the car off and was going to turn it back on but it would not start because not enough battery power. So I pushed it to the parking lot and walked home. I got my truck and went to jump it and my friend put the keys in, turned it and it weakly cranked and started. The annunciators were off and stayed of the entire 1 mile trip home. I turned the car off and decided I should charge the battery so I turned the car back on and let it run. The annunciators stayed off the entire 30 minutes I let the car run. This morning I started the car and drove it to work for 40 minutes and never had the lights come on.

Most of the time when the lights are on they are on from the ignition of the car and don't go off until I restart the car. Before last night I just thought it was a glitch in the computer but now I am thinking there is a problem with something that lets the current from the alternator get to the battery. This is just a thought. I don't really know and would appriciate any help on this so I don't have to go pay a fortune for diagnosis at the dealer. I also appologize for the novelistic post but I wanted to be sure that my symptoms are understood.

Thank you all very much. You saved me a lot of money with my A/C this summer with all of your help.

Hello out there,
I recently bought a Sigma wagon 1995 (12 Valve 170 hp) without an owners manual.
Is there anyone who can help me get that? Or....can tell me where to download a Sigma manual?
Preferably Dutch or English.

Thanks in advance,
Greetings from Holland,
HiFi

drive axle is rocking/clunking on each revolution

i own a 2003 magna executive tj series 2. its done over 150k.
i just had the front brakes done and asked for the drive axle to be looked at...then pulled out on the axle check as there was no problems, just wanted a maintenence check.
since retrieving the car there has been a slight clunk on each revolution of the right front wheel when coasting, but not when accelerating or braking.
on closer inspection i raised the front on 1 tonne ramps and found that there is a bit of movement in the "box" located on the axle, half way between the cv joint and the engine. I gather this is sometimes called the yoke? there is some movement here in this box...it also seems that the axle moves slightly here. there is just a little in the left side but it doesnt make a noise when coasting like the box on the drivers side. im wondering 3 things:


is it possible that when the brake disks and caliper are replaced that this accidentally may tamper with the yoke?


the actual yoke case and boot to the case look quite old but not damaged, how much does it cost to get these replaced?


what dangers are there if i dont have this fixed?

thanks heaps for the help and advice.

I was wondering...Is it possible to swap out the traditional style gauge cluster for the Luminescent style gauge cluster?

And if so, what modifications are required and what is the degree of difficulty?

If anyone has performed this type of upgrade. I would like to pick your brain.


PEACE