Hi there, i am new to the forum In fact i am new to the cars world too, i ride a motorbike but recently decided to buy a car as well.

I bought this car 3 days ago and today i noticed that "Check Engine" lights is on and stays red all the time when i drive. I havent noticed that before. Last owner said that hey had some problems with the car but after replacing the battery it was working fine, not sure if the battery has anything to do with it but it could be a clue to you car gurus He also mentioned that the car uses quite a lot of coolant.

its 1993 Magna with 130.000 km on the clock.

Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks

Pawel

1994 Verada - Stalling when idling in hot weather.
Hi All
I have a problem that has been plaguing my car for about a year now. I have taken it to two different mechanics and they both have fixed different things (which will explain below) but to no avail. I was hoping that somebody may know something, or have a similar experience and perhaps could offer some suggestions. Here are the details.

Car: Mitsubishi Verada V6ei 1994, Automatic.

Symptoms: Car only stalls in warm/hot (i.e. >25deg C) weather when idling and when the engine is warm. The car doesn’t start immediately upon a stall, but if you let it sit for about 10 min, it starts up again. (If the weather is cold, the car works perfectly)

Things that have been repaired to try to fix it: Computer chip scan/reset, fuel system pressure check (and is fine), distributer replaced.

Any ideas?? Any similar problems?
If you need any extra info just reply here and ill answer the best I can.
Thanks in advance, Jez.

[FONT=Times] I have a 2000 Diamante. Last night as I was driving home and I noticed the service engine light on. I thought that maybe the day before when I had gotten gas I didn't get the cap on tight enough.

So when I got home, I shut the car off and undid the cap and made sure it clicked. I thought surely starting my car multiple times today that the light would go off.

I went and got an oil change and the mechanic made no mention of the light or anything being wrong with the car. I hate to pay to take it to the dealer when it could be as simple as a leaky cap or something. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm open to them.

Thanks!

Hi everyone. I recently picked up a 96 Diamante 2.5 sohc that seems in good order apart from a couple of things - just wondering if anyone on here has come across these problems before;

1) When i first got the car i realised it had a bit of trouble when cold and would sometimes stall when putting it into gear. It also had a very high idle when warm (1500rpm). I adjusted the idle screw in the throttle to bring the warm idle back down to about 900rpm, and now the car will not idle at all when it's cold, i have to keep giving it gas for a minute or so. It seems the previous owner had adjusted the idle screw out to try and mask the cold idle problem. I spotted a thread somewhere that says to clean the throttle body out, i've done this but it made no difference. Anyone know where i should look next? The idle control valve is on the underside of the throttle body correct? Im thinking i might pull it off and see if i can clean its insides?

2) Now on to the other fault, electric windows. All windows will wind down fine from any switch, but more often than not, *most* windows will only wind up about 2 inches at a time, you just have to keep pulling on the switch again and again till its at the top. I say *most* because the drivers window has actually just stopped doing this and is now operating perfectly lol - Any ideas here?

Any help's much appreciated - Cheers

Gene

I have a friend with a 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante ES. I did new plugs and wires (two wires contacts were not in properly and corroded, and one of the plugs actually broke when I took it out...ish...) and started it up and discovered another problem.

Occasionally, while it was idling, it would suddenly cut out and sort of stall, but recover in a second. When it cuts out, there is a click from over near the glove box area, which I'm assuming is the computer doing something. While it's half stalled, for that one second or so, the check engine light is on, and it goes back off when the engine recovers.

I know this car has had a little issue with the check engine light. Once in a while (not often), when starting the car up, the check engine light would come on....but in those cases, the engine did not seem to have any adverse running conditions. Turning the car off and starting it again would seem to remove the light.

After sitting a minute, the cut-out problem seemed to go away, though I did not want to continue running the engine with it doing that, so I did not keep it going for more than a couple minutes (the temp gauge was just starting to rise). I also have not driven it anywhere since.

I'm more of a Caddy person when it comes to knowing the car well, so this thing is a little foreign to me, and I do not know how to read the codes on it. If someone could assist me in what might be causing this, I'd be grateful.

Update: For diagnostic's sake, I drove it down the road a bit. It did happen a couple times while driving as well. It manifested as an rpm drop (I'd say 200-300 rpm), and one of the times I felt it jolt while doing so. The jolt seemed less when I was cruising back (sort of down hill continuously) with the O/D off.

OK, I've been able to duplicate the problem enough now to know it's the A/C compressor that's clicking...and I guess sort of catching and putting more strain on the engine than it's supposed to....so if that means the compressor's shot...or going...or it's just low on refrigerant?

When the fuel cap cover lever is pulled in the cabin of the car, the cover won't spring open. It takes two to fill the car up with petrol now

I checked the action of the pin in the fuel cap well and it is moving in and out but when it moves and releases the cap cover, the cover won't spring open. Any suggestions to fix this problem, please. Thanks in advance.

I thought id make a thread re GNs.
Mines a 85 2.6 astron2 5 speed <130000 km, when I bought her i found the temp gauge stayed cold (~1/4).
Turned out someone 'jimmyed' the car to look like it was running cool, they fitted a short temp sender unit to the head (didnt hane the tip out in the coolant stream like the proper one has). So I changed it and found she ran just above the ends of the wavey lines at the center of the gauge....untill it got work, when it would heat up to 2/3 ~ 3/4.

I did some work to the carby and refilled the coolant (every filled with same amount I drained out + I purged the air out at the upper choke coolant connection), ran the eng up and started doing adjustments. I noticed the top rad hose was cold ! the bottom one was extreamly hot ! looked at the gauge !!!! hard over in the red.
Turned it off & removed the thermostat (it stuck shut) got hot water n refilled the cooling system before running the eng to cool, guess what? started getting milky oil :-( thought it might have just been the gasket, head was <0.002 thou out of flat.
So I did a valve job n put it back on, seemed ok but temp still behaved the same....then the milky started again (slight foaming in the coolant (air)).

Tryed using chemiweld, followed all recomendations. but after a month it got worce n started lossing coolant faster to the sump. removed the cam and rocker gear, wiped the head down and pressurized the cooling system (14 psi).
Beads of coolant apeared from the front of #3 cam bearing, it had a 3" crack traveling toward the rear of the head :-(.

Got a m6 casting to replace the m2 head, did the valves and installed the m2 cam n rocker gear etc (easy change over) :-) temp stays around 1/2 now what ever I do driving


>>>Key points I found: 1 > heats up when eng is working (cooling sys in good cond)
2 > head was not adheared to head gasket (but the gasket did stick to the block)
3 > carfully moniter the temp of the hoses n gauge after anything involving coolant removal and replacement.

Hi all, I have a problem with my Sigma ´93 12 valve.

Guess I forgot to close a door or something which dried out the battery, so I plugged it out to recharge it overnight to plug it back in the day after. But now everything is acting crazy, windows goes up and down when I work the throttle so does the central locking system as well as the sunroof is opening by itself and smoke came out from behind the stereo.

Any help will be highly appreciated !

Cheers
Mj

hey how ya'll doing,

First of all i drive a 1994 Mitsubishi Magna Station wagon, with auto
just wanted to know a few things, the first thing i have been looking for but couldnt find is, is it bad if you turn o/d or a/t on or off while driving? like say ur going 50 and u have it on and u turn it off will that damage ur car (like while ur moving and all)?

Also sometimes when i turn my car on i have a bit of black smoke coming out the back.. any suggestions on that?

Thanks a lot

Hi. I need a bit of help here, guys, if you can give it to me.

I know it might be impossible, but it'll be interesting to see if anyone can get some information on it for me as I couldn't find any myself. All of the information I'll be giving below if from my Dad and from a friend. It happened many years ago, so it may not be completely correct.

My Dad owned a tuned, one-of-a-kind Mitsubishi Sigma 2.6 from the late 1970s/ early 1980s, one of the first cars to get a turbo in Australia. They both said it went like absolute stink, killed anything at the traffic lights. It was red, and my Dad added orange stripes to it. The car was also in some magazine (can't remember the name), and had all of the car's specifications and performance figures in there. He did have the magazine, but he got rid of it.

Can anyone help here? Any information is appreciated.

Thanks!

My 92 2.6 Magna check engine light comes on after a couple of minutes and the transmission hangs on and only changes into third at 70 k and top at 90k It also cuts out on sharp bends. Any answers would be appreciated

Help please! I need an expert or great knowledge!
Here are a few facts you should know.
-2001 Diamante LS
-Heater Core O-Rings replaced at time of vehicle purchase
-The coolant temp is normal in all sorts of driving, indicating no thermostat problem (also hoses feel normal hot)


Heres the consistent problem.
I start my car, and while driving to work, I have the digital heat set to 80 degrees. Between 25-40 minutes later, the heater starts to blow cool air. I can then raise the heat to anywhere between 81-89 degrees (to which heat comes back on), and now within only 5 minutes, heat blows cool again. I will not get heat back until the car is shut off for a minimum 30 min. The longer the car is shut off, the longer the heat will last once I start the car before it blows cool again. However, (heres the catch) if I max out the heat to 90 degrees, it will always maintain 90, and never blow cool. If I lower it one degree to 89, it will then blow cool again. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON? Please help!

I had it smog checked to see what the problem was.

All emissions are fine except for the check engine light is on indicating a ODB code 41. And the ignition timing is a little off.

The repairs are too expensive to maybe have the light come off.

I tried disconnecting the battery for over an hour and drove maybe 1.5 miles before it came back on.

How long does it have to be off for to get passed the smog checker?

I would like to just physically disconnect the light or remove the lightbulb.

If I do that does the smog checker still check for computer codes?

I don' care about taking out the light, I just need the light off so I can register it, drive it around for a few months an get rid of it.

Hi there,

Last week I bought a Magna 93 V6 Wagon Executive. Everyting was working just fine. After a few days the engine was boiling. The problem was a broken fan relais.
Than a few days later, the aircon was turned on and working, but there was almost no air coming in. One day later, the air WAS coming in, but only warm air. 2 days later, I tried to start the car in the moring, but the battery was dead, so yesterday I went to the shop and bought a new one.
Today my new battery is dead! Something is draining it and I can't figure out what it is.

Can anyone help me with this?

wen driving (cold engine) the engine (rpm) tends to jump up nd down bout 2 -3 times b4 going into 3rd gear.
wen engine is hot, the problem is mostly eliminated but still occurs from time to time..
is this a big problem?
transmission problem?|
shud i get it checked out?|
wat cud b causing this?

I had a flat battery and now need to enter my security code in order to get the radio working on my 2004 Magna. I know my code, but dont have my owner manual. Can somebody please tell me how to enter the security code.

many thanks, Andrea

Hi, I have a Mitsubishi Sigma, not used for 4 years, I drove it for a month or so, everythink was fine. I left it in my garage for 3 month, try to drive it today: in park or neutral the engine runs just fine, when I switch in drive and depress the gas pedal the hole engine start making a strong rattling noise, the car vibrate. After the car reaches a stady speed everythink si again nice and smooth. In other words the problem apears only when the engine is under load. Could be a vacum sensor or..... Any ideeas ?

Thanks,
Franz

I recently purchased a 1994 Diamante LS (Non Calif.) from a good friend of mine with 135000 miles on it. The vehicle has received regular maintenance, and recently underwent a valve job at 120000 miles. Folloiwng a fluid check of the engine recently, I undertaook a simple cleaning of the engine compartment, which involved a low pressue rinsing of the front exhaust manifold cover and forward end of the engine (near radiator). Upon completion of the cleaning operation, I moved the car from the driveway, and it ran just fine with normal idle. Returing to the car some two hours later, however, the vehicle idle was quite poor (rough), and the check engine light came on. Although driveable, the vehicle has suffred a significant loss of power, and continues to idle very roughly, with the check engine light continuing to be lit. Can you provide me with any idea as to what might be the problem? Did rinsing the engine contribute to it? (I have cleaned the ngine before, to no ill effect) Any idea or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You!

hey everyone new member here. i bought a runabout magna 89 and im just wondering how to remove the stereo i have in at the moment. i have a new one im trying to install.

Hi recently i have encounted a problem where the regulator/whatever is behind the glove box starts clicking and the car stalls. It can happen at idle or whilst driving down the road. Upon trying to restart it just makes a clicking sound behind the g/box. The enging is turning over but wont fire all the while clicking madly behind the g/box. I had it at an auto elec for over a week and he couldn't diagnose the problem but sandblasted something in the dizzy. The car wont start for between 1 - 20 minutes when this happens and this mostly happens when it's cold but not always. I replaced the regulator and now the coil and hopefully it should be fine although i have been told if it's keeps happening i will need to replace the computer. Does anyone know what may be causing this? Its a build date 11/92 magna 2.6l 4cyl auto.

Cheers - Matt

Thanks in advance for anyonw who has any ideas

Hey,

Does any one know how to significantly increase economy of a TS Magna GLX?

Am a student, and maybe forced to let go if I cant get more for my buck.

Thanks,
Som

Hey guys.
I am currently restoring my 80 model scorpion.
I am not quite sure on how to remove the dash. I cant reach some of the plugs on the back of the dash. is there an easier way to do it? or should i leave the dash in and paint the car with the dash still in the car??
also the dash is badly cracked what do you think i should do?
any help would be appreciated. thanks guys

Hey guys, great forum you've got going on here!
I have done a search and couldnt find anything relating to my problem, so hopefully one of you guys can help me out?
I'm in Australia and I've got a 2000 Magna Sports and it was running a bit rough in the lower revs every now and then, and the other day it just died on the freeway!
I have pulled the front spark plugs out and tested for spark and there is none at all on any of the front 3 leads!
From what I can gather the coil is built into the distributor? Is this right?
I am not really used to newer cars with so many electrical bits and pieces to check over to find the problem, so can someone please suggest where I can start looking for the problem?
I did speak to a mechanic mate, but he is a lazy s.o.b,and couldn't be bothered to come and help me out! He just told me to just replace the dizzy/coil straight up, but I don't want to go through the hassle of that to find out it is something else. Is there any way of testing the components like the crank angle sensor and the dizzy/coil before I go nuts and start ripping thigs off and replacing them?
Has anone had the same or similar problem?
Thanks in advance for any help and advice!
Cheers!
-Whitchy-

Hey guys.
I own a 1980 chrysler scorpion 5 speed and am currently stripping the car down for a respray and was wanting to remove the engine.
Do i have to remove the gearbox or can i get the engine out with the gearbox still in the car?
How much is involved in removing the engine as i am only a first year apprentice mechanic so i havnt done much engine removal.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks guys

Hi, I know I can figure this out if someone could tell me where I could find good wiring diagrams for the 03 diamante, but here it is. The cruise control operates normally in every way, except when you turn the key off. With the cruise turned on or off when the engine is turned off, the cruise light on the instrument panel will be on when you restart the car. It is intermittent, but happens often. It is not related to wet weather or temperature but I am suspicious that it could be related to standing voltage on the battery (it is the original but seems OK) or a bad ground on a relay. Anyone seen this, or how about a schematic? Thanks so much!

hey
i have a 95 Magna SE v6 auto with these problems and before i get it looked at thought id ask you guys so i can go with my asumptions

1. the tacho at idle moves up & down

2. sounds like there is a hole in the exhaust up near the front wheel tho i just had a new exhaust put on from the cat back today

3. the is a PWR light on the dash but cant find a power shich anywhere??

4. i would like to know where to get a wners manual from if there is an electronic version as it didnt come with the car. and finally

5. what does the A/T MODE button do as i dont have a manual to find out

thank you for your patience

Regards
Taza

Ive had enough..oxygen senors replaced, oil changed, air filters changed....how do I just make the actual light disappear??

hey all. I have a v6 95 magna and it isnt starting atm. I charged the battery and it got me stuck at the lights in town when it died! I suspect its the alternator so i have disconnected it but cant actually pull it out of the car. Any tips would be great.
Also im looking for a workshop manual but no luck...free of course..???

ok so my 95 magna (manual) is stalling pretty much everytime i put the clutch in...and always stalls when i have to slow down to park or when im at the lights. I am thinking its possessed or something. Although when i first start it up the revs are actually really high...can someone please tell me whats going on!!!

Can anyone tell where I can buy a water pump for a 1989 Magna 6 cyl sedan in the Melbourne area?
Thanks

I just bought a 2000 diamante with anti-theft radio. Driving it home, I couldn't figure out why the radio wan't working, so I started pressing random buttons in hope it would work. When I got home I read the manual and found out about the necessary code. I accidentally entered it in wrong, and it was the third strike. Now I cannot enter the code and it says I should contact a mitsu dealership and they can repair it. Is there any way I could do this myself? I'd rather not spend the money on the dealership.

whats going up people! i have a problem hopefully someone can assist me with. I have a 2001 diamante the service engine light kept showing up i got it diagnosed and the problem shown was the EGR valve was malfunctioning. I bought a new one and replaced it the light disappeared for but the next day the light came back. Annoying well i got it diagnosed again and the malfunction was the EGR valve again. the part is new so don't know what the problem is the piece wasn't in good shape and needed replacing but i don't know if something else needs to be checked.. If anyone has suggestions or better the anwser please help out THANK YOU!!!

does anyone have a printout, the steps to bypass the factory amp or even where is it located on a 03 diamante. i have my headunit installed but no sound. thanx in advanced guys

If anyone could suggest anything - it would be much appreciated...

Driving along tonight, headlights on. All of a sudden battery light came on, at the same time the headlights stopped working (later found blown fuse), the indicators wouldn't work and nor would the wipers (discovered all had blown fuses later on). The WEIRD part was the windscreen/wiper fluid started squirting out non-stop. I had to stop and unplug the little wiper washer fluid motor to stop it. It still has constant power to it now??

There are fuses blown as mentioned above (indicator, wiper, and separate headlight fuse in engine bay). I replaced these fuses.

If I turn the right blinker on - no problem. As soon as I turn the left indicator on - Bang - fuse blows. Put a new fuse in the wiper position. Turn the key to 'ON' and even without the wipers turned on it also blows instantly. I tested the headlights again and they seem to stay on now...

I then removed all the left hand blinker globes, replaced the fuse again - and still as soon as I turn the left indicator on - fuse blows.

I am beginning to suspect something in the ignition/wiper stalk area...

Any ideas on this strange auto elec problem would be appreciated! Thanks!

ok ... ive had some problems with my car overheating.. ill list whats been done to it and what symptoms i have.. and any help will be appreciated..

= replaced alloy head due to extensive cracks and warping
-replacement head had been tested and passed.
= replaced Head gasket, exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets
= replaced distributer cap O'ring/gasket?
= replaced oxygen sensor unit
= replaced radiator thermosensor unit
= replaced thermostat + new housing *thermostat removed atm*
= back flushed radiator
= replaced several hoses and clamps
= replaced majority of relays + fuses in under the bonnet fusebox
= replaced ECU
= replaced TCU
= cleaned spark plugs
= replaced few spark plug leads

-filled with new oil
-filled with coolant/water mix

*on starting with radiator cap off, huge force expels coolant, making filling up whilst idling near impossible.

*suspect o/drive switch/electrics
*suspect power button/electrics

*at top end revs of each gear when driving there is a severe knocking/clicking sound that appears to be coming from the engine on the drivers side ...

if this makes sense to anyone... a reply with directions as to what my next step should be is most appreciated.


and now wont even kick over when i try to start it... the ! warning light is lit up when i do... ??

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x194/KA...37/Image006.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x194/KA...37/Image009.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x194/KA...37/Image010.jpg

the levels look abit low so we were wonderirng what it was for. it doesnt say on it or in the manual...

I have a 95 diamante wagon that needs what my mechanic says is an IAC motor. The only thing that I can find is an idle control valve. Is that the same thing?

Hello all,

I have just purchased a 1994 TS Magna Elite and i really find the headlights to not be what i would call great. So it leaves me 2 choices.

1. Purchase better bulbs in hopes of getting better light.
2. Building some brackets and adding on some driving lights to the front of the car.

Has anyone here experienced the same "problem" with their magna and if so which option did you take.

The headlights are probably fine it's just that i also own a VX SS Commodore which has driving lights and it has fantastic lights which i am using as a comparison to the magna.

Cheers - matt

Hi, i'm lthiele, and my mum drives a 1992 Magna TR Executive Station Wagon, but recently the guage has been saying that the engine's only just above cold.Tonight when we stopped the engine warmed up a bit, so i opened the bonnet and the fans never came on as they only come on when it's hot. We're booking it in for a service soon.

Hi everybody,

Does anybody can help me to find specifications for my Mitsubishi magna tj advanced. I got Evoscan data logger and try to find out if my lovely car has any problems, but I need specification to know what parameters are in first place. I don't anythin that I can compare with.

If anyone know where can I get specifications, please, let me know.
Any help wlill be highly appreciated.

THanks a lot,
Felix.

I'm a little confused as to what type of Magna I have?

Although I assumed I had an Elante, Is it a GT?

I noticed a lot of Elantes had different wheels to mine, and I also didn't have a side skirt, alhough I though it may have been removed.

How can you tell, is the VIN number have any codes that can tell you?

I would like some way to be able to drive with the foglights on without having to turn on the low beams, what do you guys think would be the best way of going about doing this?
I would like to keep all the factory light switches, and I would prefer not to have to add another switch under the dash or something. Is there anyway to rewire something, or would I have to make a new switch with a relay, goin only to the foglights?

... anyone with ideas please let me know, Im lost on this one.

Well i have a 1995 Diamante, it has the DOHC 6g72 3.0L. Ive swapped out the stock 4spd at with a 5spd mt. And now im trying to make little mods here and there to try and improve my power output. On the intake side i've already placed the stock airbox with a open element K&N cone filter then i created a insulated housing for the filter, and connected that to a ram air intake. I tried removing the muffler, and running the car the improvement in the top end power was nice, but i wasn't too happy with the amount of low end loss, as I use this car as my daily driver.
Ive designed and am in the middle of creating a automated butterfly valve to control the exhaust. My plan is to have this butterfly valve connected to the exhaust on one side, and to nothing on the other, they say that a picture is worth a thousand words, so i've attached a simple line drawing to illustrate the setup [attachmentid=4188]. Im almost done creating the controller for this, its as simple as a rev counter which turns on (opens) the butterfly valve when the car is above 4000rpm. This way i can enjoy the benefits of the back pressure from the muffler below 4000rpm, and the benefits of reduced back pressure of having a straight through exhaust. Unfortunately im not yet sure how to control the extent of the opening of the valve, for this version it is now a all or nothing system. Im still trying to design one which will progressively open as the rpm climbs.


But i have 3 questions before I decide if i should finish and install this:

1) Will the ecu be able to cope with switching?
Im not sure if the sudden loss of back pressure would affect any of the inputs that the ecu uses, but since there is an increase in power, im guessing almost all the values would change. At first i thought if i reset the ecu after installation that the ecu will just learn that after 4000 there is a change in the engine's dynamics.

2) What do you think would be the optimum rpm to switch from the muffler to the straight through?

3) And finally where do you think the optimum placement would be?
Since the goal is to reduce the back pressure as much as possible, wouldn't be best to keep it as close to the catalytic converter as possible?

Hi,

I need a wiring schematic for a 4 cylinder 2.6 ignition system. I am attempting to modify the astron coil, transistor, resister and etc to use in a different vehicle. Can any one help me?

Hi

My sons Magna is having severe problems idling. I've found that it runs fine when the air hose is removed from the air filter. I bought a new air filter and fitted it however I have the same problem. No air hose/air filter - runs fine. Air hose/air filter attached - won't run.

I've noticed the air filter has some electrical connections attached and there's some kind of electrical unit attached to the lid of the air filter. What is this and what does it do? Also does anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong?

Thanks.

Hi forum,

My 1999 TH Magna 3.5 has a bad oil leak (It's done 220000km) in the cam belt area, I removed the top cover and there is heaps of oil on the belt and cover insides.

Obviously I need to do a belt and I assume the cam seals but what else should I be looking at. (I have the workshop manual and am reasonably good with mechanics - have to be when your second car is a Jaguar)

P.S. anyone know a cheap source for the parts (Repco have a kit at $330 which seems a tad steep)

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Magna 94 stationwagon automatic trans

when i turn on my O\D and hit the speed about 80 km\h and it trying to gear upp it feels like it hits neutral or misses a gear and it will not accelerate until it gear down again.
I dont have any problems when i turn off O\D.
How much will it cost to fix?
What is the problem?
My guess is that its som gear wheel broken or something like that. Please tell me that I'm wrong.


\\Alex

I have a 2003 Magna and want to replace original radio. How do I remove and install new one?

Thanks,
RJB

The car has some faults,the petrol cap won't open, the seat adjuster [ to manouvre seat front and back won't work,the Cd player won't play cds [prob. totally unrelated] could all these faults be an electrial fault? There is a loud clicking most prob behind the aircon unit, air con works but heating doesn't. Thank you

I just bought new headlight bulbs to put in my 2004 Diamante but i cant figure out how to remove the headlight assembly to change them? can anyone help?