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EMC 3000gt |
15871 |
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Last post by: EMC 3000gt
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vintagepostcards |
10,557 |
1st August 2011 - 10:25 AM Last post by: Silver Wolf |
Anyone can get their radio code for free direct from Mitsubishi by telephone. You will need the following information:
Last 8 characters of your VIN #
Radio Serial Number
Call Mitsubishi:
1-888-mitsu20 (1-888-648-7820), option 1, option 4
Current hours: 6am to 5pm Pacific, M-F.
Tell representative that you replaced your battery and now need your radio code. If you are not currently a registered owner, they will ask for your info for registration.
How to find your Radio Serial Number
It is located on a label on the radio. You will need to remove the dashboard panel covering the radio. For my Mitsubish Eclipse, it was easy (might be same for other vehicles):
Remove the two screws located underneath the radio. Just go to the edges of the radio and follow it down going underneath the dash. You will need a small philips head as there isn't much clearance especially on the left side. You can then pull away the plastic exposing the radio itself. The plastic panel just tugs straight out from the dash. Pull out the bottom first. Then tug the top straight out, to pull it away from the snaps holding it on.
The Mistubishi representative asked me for the Radio Serial Number only, not the Radio Manufacturer's Number (MR...). The serial number was visible for me without removing the radio itself (unscrewing it from the dash). However, you might want to leave the panel off until you get your radio code in case they ask you for the MR # and you have to unscrew the radio from the dash to see that part of the label.
How to enter your Radio Code
(Courtesy of mittech)
Use the first four radio station preset buttons to enter the code.
1: Push radio preset#1 until first digit of your code appears.
2: Push radio preset#2 until second digit of your code appears.
3: Push radio preset#3 until third digit of your code appears.
4: Push radio preset#4 until fourth digit of your code appears.
5: Push either tape or cd button.
What to do if your radio says OFF instead of CODE
(Courtesy of mittech)
If your radio says OFF it means you entered the wrong radio code three times. To get it to say CODE again do the following.
1:Turn the key to on or accessory.
2:Push the power button so that the radio display says OFF.
3:Let the car sit for 1 hour.
4:The radio display will go blank.
5:Turn the radio on and it will say CODE again.
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mittech |
24,465 |
5th April 2011 - 07:36 PM Last post by: Longie |
If your radio says "Off" it means you entered the wrong audio code three times. To get it to say code again do the following.
1:Turn the key to on or accessory.
2:Push the power button so that the radio display says off.
3:Let the car sit for 1 hour.
4:The radio display will go blank.
5:Turn the radio on and it will say code again.
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dylanjacobus |
68,477 |
22nd July 2010 - 01:33 PM Last post by: mitsubishispyder |
Alright I am sure someone here can help me out. I am trying to install my aftermarket stereo into my 2001 Eclipse with the Infinity system. I got the wiring harness from crutchfield and the install kit. But when I connect all the wires, the cp player turns on and there is no sound from any of the speakers.
I noticed that there is a whole lot of connections on the stock cd player and only an fm antenna and the dinky little harness for the aftermarket one. So my question is, do I need to get more adapters, or what?
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bobthecow |
10,504 |
21st May 2009 - 03:01 AM Last post by: bobthecow |
I will post pics of my installation in the near future. Hopefully this will clear up any misunderstandings with audio installation, or equipment.
Car Audio FAQ
Hello all, and welcome to my car audio FAQ. I will try to answer every question that I can in a semi-brief fashion. I have been doing car audio installations for about 5 years now, and know a great deal about the profession.
I. How to plan your audio system
II. What brands to go with
III. How do you want it to look
IV. Installation Techniques
V. Disclaimer
Section I, planning your audio system
To plan your audio system, you must first think about what you want out of it. Do you want to keep it simple with just an aftermarket head unit, maybe you want to add new speakers as well. Then there is the possibility of getting a little more advanced and adding amplifiers and subwoofers, tweeters and component speakers, and for those of you with amps over 500 watts, a capacitor.
The second thing that you have to do is set priorities on the items that you want to get. An aftermarket head unit is the best thing to start with. It will make your stock speakers sound clearer, as well as give them a bit more power. Next would be new speakers, followed by an amp and subs. After doing all of this, you may want to think about amping up all of your speakers.
Third and finally you need to find out how much you are willing to spend on this audio system. A mediocre system without subs will cost about 300-500 USD. A good quality system with subs will cost anywhere from 600-1000 USD. High quality will cost you about 1100-2000 USD. Finally an excellent sound system with component speakers, amps, subs, and a high quality head unit can cost up to about 5000 USD. I have never done a competition system for anyone, but I have heard they can get up to about 10000 USD.
To show you the expenses you might be getting into here is what I have done to mine:
Head Unit: Blaupunkt Key West MP36
Speakers: Blaupunkt Velocity Series, full range speakers all the way around
Soon To Be Added Speaker Amp: Eclipse EA4000
Subs: 2 Infinty Reference 1040w
Sub Amp: Audiobahn 8002v
Capacitor: Rockford Fosgate 1 farad capacitor
My entire system cost a bit over 2000 dollars with my box, wiring kits, materials, and the likes.
Section II, What brands to go with, or to stay away from
Here are the two best websites for car audio:
www.crutchfield.com
www.sonicelectronix.com
Some brands are good for certain aspects of audio, while being poor at others. An example of this is Eclipse. Their amps and head units are some of the best, but their speakers and subs aren’t that great. Hopefully this list will help you decide. Keep in mind, con doesn’t mean that the item sucks, it just means that it isn’t as good as some others.
There are certain brands that you should stay away from no matter what. These brands are: Sony, Emerson, Jensen, Boss, Bose, Visonik, Directed Audio, Soundstream, Bazooka, Fusion, Lightning Audio, Phoenix Digital(not to be confused with Phoenix Gold), Precision Audio, Treo, Profile, and Extreme Audio. All of these companies suck for car audio, trust me. The bolded items are those that are spoken highly of, but are of poor quality, both in sound and craftsmanship.
There are brands that have no flaws in my opinion: Clarion, Focal, Infinity, JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, Memphis, Phoenix Gold, Kenwood eXcelon, Pioneer Premier, Pyramid, Rockford Fosgate Power Series. The items in bold are brands that I push heavily.
My opinion on everyone’s favorite, Kicker. Kicker makes all of their products seem larger than life, and better than anything else on the market. Here is my “beef” with them. First and foremost, Kicker makes a square subwoofer, and they claim that it produces better sound. The problem with this claim is that sound waves are round, not square. Second, they claim everything to be “comp.”, which is another lie, because even their top of the line stuff cannot be seen at competitions actually winning any prizes. And lastly, they just flat out aren’t worth the cost. Infinity costs about the same and it is at least twice as good.
Alpine Pros: Speakers, Subs, Head Units
Alpine Cons: Amps
Audiobahn Pros: Amplifiers, Head Units
Audiobahn Cons: Speakers, Subs
Blaupunkt Pros: Speakers, Subs, Head units
Blaupunkt Cons: Amps
Dual Pros: Amps
Dual Cons: Head units, speakers, subs
Eclipse Pros: Amps, head units
Eclipse Cons: speakers, subs
JBL Pros: Speakers, Subs
JBL Cons: Amps, Head units
Kenwood Pros: Amps, Subs, Speakers
Kenwood Cons: Head Units
MTX Pros: Subs, Amps
MTX Cons: speakers
Pioneer Pros: Head Units, speakers, subs
Pioneer Cons: Amplifiers
Rockford Fosgate Punch Series Pros: Amps
Rockford Fosgate Punch Series Cons: Speakers, Subs, Head Units
Section III, How do you want it to look
Do you want your audio system to function properly, or do you want it to function properly and look good, or do you want it do be like a professional job? Are you looking to make things permanent, or do you change your mind frequently? These kinds of questions are what I ask the people who come to me to install stuff for them. A decent job that is done right, but not very professionally takes me about an hour. A professional job can take me anywhere from eight to 12 hours for me to do. I charge by the job, not by the hour, so time is not a factor for me. However, it may be for you. If you don’t feel like spending all day, or all weekend doing this, then you can do it the quick and easy way.
The quick and easy way: wire crimp connectors, wire caps, duct tape, the sorts of everyday items. The wiring looks like a mess, you can visibly see it in some places, and all and all it just looks like crap.
The semi-professional job: Electricians tape. The wires are hidden, but the locations for them aren’t good , I.E behind the pedals of your car. The items are screwed into place, no dynamat is used, and the connections could still be better.
Professional Job: Heat Shrink, solder, caulk, the works. Dynamat is used in every single panel, everything is seated perfectly or fabricated to do so. You not only screw the speakers in, but also you caulk them. Wires are first soldered, and then heat shrink is applied to make them look perfect. No wires are showing anywhere except right near the component hook ups, aftermarket grills are used, and no shortcuts are taken… well kinda.
Section IV, installation techniques
Some people make the mistake of wiring things wrong because the don’t have a harness, others have problems keeping their speakers from rattling, and still others drill thousands of holes into their firewalls trying to get that amp wire through. Well this is the section for those people. With my experience in car audio, I will help you to make your installation look as professional as possible. I do not have the time or resources to do vehicle specific installations for you, but if you PM I will try my best to help. This is meant for a really basic, professional looking installation. It will cover a CD Player, non component Speakers, Subs, a single Amp, and a Capacitor.
For Head Unit installations: My Recommendation, Pioneer Premier
First thing is first, when you buy your head unit from wherever, make sure you get a wiring harness specific to your vehicle and a mounting kit specific to your vehicle. Now then, go to your local hardware store and pick up a heat gun(a blow dryer on steroids). I believe that Sears and Home Depot have relatively cheap heat guns. While you are there pick up a material called heat shrink, you will need 20-16 gauge. You also will need a soldering gun and some solder, it is easiest to solder with a silver exterior, acid core.
Take your new head unit out of the box, and inspect it for any shipping damages. If you have a removable faceplate, I suggest you utilize it until you have the installation complete. The wiring harness you purchased should have a sheet with it, or say on the packaging what wires do what function. Your new head unit will have a plug of it’s own that goes into the back of it. Your new head unit should have marked on it somewhere(if not look in the owners/installation manual), what the wires for it’s plug mean as well. Write down the connections on a piece of paper, as to not forget, solder is nearly permanent. KEEP THE CHART YOU MAKE UNTIL YOU ARE DONE WITH EVERYTHING
Go home and get used to soldering on some extra speaker wire that you may have laying around. Try to make it very neat, go very slowly, but then again you must work quickly, once it cools down, there is no turning back.
Now then, once you have done that, you can start the actual connection process. Get all of the wires ready by stripping about half an inch to an inch off of their covers Place of piece heat shrink over the open end of the wire(on either harness), and let it slide all the way down to the bottom of the harness. Twist the two wires together, try to keep them in a semi-straight line, or the heat shrink wont fit properly when it comes time to actually shrink it. After you have twisted the wires together, very neatly solder them. The connection is very strong with solder, so you shouldn’t ever have to worry about it breaking. After you have soldered your wire, slide the heat shrink tube over the solder connection and use your heat gun to shrink it up. If you did it correctly, it will look very professional. Stand back and admire your work, and then realize that you have about 10-15 more of these things to do.
After you have finished linking the head unit to the wiring harness that you bought, you can plug it in to your car, attach the antenna, RCA cables and remote wires for amps, and last but not least, your ground wire. You have now finished your head unit… hooray. Now on to speakers.
Speaker Installation: My Recommendation, Blaupunkt Velocity for the speakers, Rockford for the wiring
Speakers are the easiest thing to do, but can be extremely frustrating at times. On my 1991 and 2002 Eclipses you have to pull of damn near every interior panel to get to the speakers. Every vehicle has a different way to get to the speakers, and as stated before, I won’t spend the time doing vehicle specific installations on this site. To make your speakers look like they have been professionally done, you must be very careful with your interior panels. Mitsubishi makes them thin, and they crack very, VERY, easily.
You will need to go to the hardware store and pick up some silicone caulk, then to the car audio store and pick up some speaker wire, preferably 16 or 18 gauge wire. You will also need your soldering gun/solder, and your heat gun/heat shrink.
The first thing you will need to do is look at your chart that you made for your head unit and figure out which wire is the plus and which wire is the minus on each speaker. Then, as I said earlier, very carefully undo all the panels needed to get to your speakers. Once your stock speaker is exposed, take it out, cut the old wires as close to the plug as possible, and strip the casings off of them.
To get your new speaker ready, you first will need cut about a six inch new section, then strip some of your new speaker wire, half an inch to and inch on both ends should be fine. Now, solder the connection to the wires running from your head unit, to the new speaker wires. Slide a piece of heat shrink over the open end and use your heat gun to tighten it up. Solder your wire to your speaker, and then caulk the edge of the speaker, making sure that you don’t cover up the screw holes. Push it down in it’s original opening, and finally, screw the speaker back into place. The caulk will make an airtight seal that will keep the speaker from popping, which will make it sound better. It also will provide a little more sound dampening, and will help to keep the speaker in place if a screw comes loose.
Subwoofer Installation: My Recommendation, JL Audio W7 subs, Rockford wiring
Subwoofers are easy as pie. Since they aren’t already in your car, you cant remove them, and you have one less thing to do. You need to decide what size subs to get. The size of the subs is based on what type of music you most often listen to. 8’s are good for rock, extremely poor for rap. 10’s excel with rock, and poor with rap. 12’s are decent for rock, and really good for rap. 15’s are horrible for rock, and excellent for rap.
You will need to go get some 12 or 14 gauge speaker wire for this job. You also will need the solder, heat shrink, and caulk again. You will need a box. Here is a list of box types and what they are good for:
(10’s and smaller) Sealed- best for tight, responsive bass. Good for punk rock, emotional, classical, classic rock, and old metal
(10’s and 12’s) Ported/vented- best for continuous bass, a little louder but poorer sound quality. Good for new metal, industrial, death metal, rock, techno, and the likes.
(10’s and larger) Band pass- best for continuous obnoxiously loud bass, extremely poor sound quality. Good for rap, that’s about it.
To install your new subs into their box you must do the same thing you did for speakers. You need to solder, heat shrink, and caulk them into place. Okay, you are done with that now.
Amplifier Installation: My Recommendation, Audiobahn Amp, Rockford wiring (like $150, ouch)
Your amplifier should supply no less than 50% of the max RMS of your subs. It should supply no more than 90% of the max RMS of your subs. Amps need to be placed in a Wiring kits need to be bought according to size of the amp:
<500 watts- 8 gauge
500 to 1000 watts- 4 gauge
1000 to 1500 watts- 2 gauge
1500 or more- 0 gauge
You will need wiring terminals for whichever size wire you have. Your local audio store should have them. The best materials are gold plated or platinum plated. You will need a pair of pliers to crimp the wire terminals to the wires, or if you are a weaker individual, you might need a hammer to do the same.
Okay, whichever side of your car the battery is on is the side that you will need to run your amp power wire and remote turn on wire. The opposite side is for your RCA cables. Do the RCA first, it is the easiest part. Just run it under your door-sill panels, next to the carpeting. It should tuck away quite nicely between the plastic and the carpet. Run it like this all the way back to the amplifier.
Now for your remote wire, run it the same way, but on the opposite side of the car, if it is going to run on the drivers side, make sure that you tuck it beneath the carpeting behind your pedals, if not, you may break the wire, or cause an accident.
Now for the power wire, which is the one that everybody always does wrong. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, DRILL THROUGH YOUR FIREWALL. Okay, now then, to the correct way. The side of your car that the battery is on, the same side you ran your remote wire for, is the side you will run for your power cable. Take off the plastic inside of your wheel-well, and you should see a bunch of holes going into your engine bay. Those are the holes that you will run the wire through. Take the non-fuse side of your wire, and run it down from the engine to the wheel well, via the holes that are there. Once you have ran the wire through the hole, you can proceed to pull it through, make sure you leave enough slack for your fuse side to connect to the battery. Open the door on the appropriate side of the car, you should see a black rubber hose running from your doorframe, into the car. Get a screwdriver and poke a hole from the inside of the vehicle to the outside. Attach the power wire to the screwdriver with some electrical tape and pull it into the cabin. Now, hide the wire underneath the paneling in the same fashion that you did the remote wire.
Finally, you can connect it all up. Plug in all the RCA, remote, and speaker wires in the back first, then the ground, and finally the power wire. After the back wires are in, you can plug the power wire into the battery.
And you are finished.
Section V Disclaimer
I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle. Although I have been doing this for years, it is possible that I missed something. If you have any questions, or run into any problems with your car audio installation, feel free to pm me.
This guide is the sole property of me, C. Nicholas Ambs (aka,bobthecow). Any use or posting of this guide without my express written consent is prohibited. Good luck, and happy installing.
| Forum Topics |
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Fillo |
77 |
15th May 2013 - 09:27 AM Last post by: Fillo |
Hi,
Recently become the owner of a Mitsubishi Grandis and was hoping someone could offer some advice as to the stereo.
The head unit was a factory Mitsubishi unit (u171), there WAS a cd multichanger but it would appear this had been stolen prior to my ownership and the car also has a Rosen g8 roof mounted DVD player.
all was fine until I tried to listen to a radio station. the reception was extremely poor and in some instances non existent. after a little research it was suggested that the f m modulator may be faulty. after removing the head unit I managed to locate the modulator but was unable to access it to check if the connections were okay. in my infinite wisdom I decided to hold a papercliP on to the aerial input at the rear of the head unit. this did improve reception greatly but after a short while I believe the head unit short circuited because I can no longer get the unit to power up.
I have since bort an aftermarket head unit but in doing this I have lost the display on the centre console which shows miles per gallon etc and I have also lost the ability for the dvd player to play through the car speakers for which I am unable to understand why. is there any reason why (that I may be missing) the dvd sound won't come through the car stereo speakers?
what I would like to do is to get the original factory head unit working again. Does anyone know if these units are repairable?
Kind regards,
Simon.
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tcat_98011 |
508 |
9th March 2013 - 01:31 AM Last post by: tcat_98011 |
Does anyone know how to remove the instrument panel on a 97 Eclipse? I removed the two screws at the top but it won't slide out?
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2
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uglystorm |
1,984 |
16th December 2012 - 05:49 PM Last post by: newmexico786 |
I need assistance and guidance to remove and replace the rear (cargo area) speakers. One of them (driver side) is blown and I can't listen to the radio or CD without the noise background.
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DreMivecKay |
169 |
13th December 2012 - 11:04 PM Last post by: DreMivecKay |
Is there a way to change the interior lights from orange to another color? I really wanna change the color from orange!
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521
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07mitsueclipse |
91,738 |
4th December 2012 - 10:38 PM Last post by: EVOsurge |
Hello,
I thought I might be able to help out here. If you are in need of a Radio Code please feel free to reply to me and I can help you out with the issue. All i need from you is the actual Serial Number from the radio itself and the part number, this way im able to help you get this code.
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PaulioGZ |
117 |
2nd December 2012 - 04:26 AM Last post by: PaulioGZ |
So heres me trying to fix this central locking issue. so from inside I can central lock with the lock switch but it wont unlock, thats not so bad because theres the lock/unlock button that works fine. But from the outside the key will only central unlock and not lock so you have to lock each door individually.
Ive tried parts from another car but to no avail; it still has the same problem. Ive tried new switch clusters that has all the 4 windows & locks button and ive tried a new lock motor and also the sensor behind the key barrel.
I dont understand how the "lock" is spose to be detected tho because the sensor behind the key lock barrel has only 2 wires so only 1 circuit can be completed?? eg unlock only.. so does that mean that the lock motor will sense when the key has locked and will signal the relays to lock?
Also i havnt been able to locate a central locking unit or relay of any kind, at this stage im thinking its all within the switch cluster is this correct?
car is galant sports gt 1994 rhd
please help! paul
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cowmantoday |
134 |
17th October 2012 - 02:24 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
The elctric ariel on my 2.8 pajero is making a horrid noise and not going up or down.So I presume its had it.How do I get at it to either remove it or replace it ?
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MovinSouth |
91 |
15th September 2012 - 08:42 AM Last post by: MovinSouth |
Hey, the Rockford amplifier in my 2007 Outlander shorted out. If anyone is parting or upgrading, I would like to buy your factory mitsubishi amp. (Rockford only supplied the speakers and sub, it is Mitsubishi head unit and amp.)
If anyone repairs, I would also be interested in sending it your way.
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windssurfer |
137 |
12th August 2012 - 05:15 PM Last post by: windssurfer |
2004 Outlander with stock Infinity system with amp under seat and CD player in dash - sound cuts out after a minute. Turn off turn on, sound stays on for a few seconds. Turn off turn on no sound. Radio display works fine but no sound. I checked all the connections and everything looks fine. Guessing it is a capacitor gone bad but I have no knowledge of auto sound systems. Is this prblem sound like the amp gone bad? Is there a way to bypass the amp? Can the amp be replaced with an aftermarket amp? Do I have to replace with the same amp? Looking for some low cost options.
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Mawk |
163 |
24th May 2012 - 09:38 PM Last post by: Mawk |
I have Red LED bulbs for 'map lights' in my car.
Map lights are the ones just above the windshield that you turn on when, say, reading a map.
They turn on when I open the doors or If I click them on.
Will a cop pull me over or give me a ticket if he sees them?
What about other colors like:
Blue
Purple
Green
I live in Ontario
Thanks
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TSeibring |
257 |
15th January 2012 - 09:56 AM Last post by: TSeibring |
Hello, I'm a newbie and this question is about my son's car. He has a 2008 Lancer and he has replaced the rims and tires. The service required light stays on now because of the factory tires and rims were removed. Is there a way to shut off the flashing colored light on the dash? Thomas
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Gps
GPS does not function correctly
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Hugh16 |
143 |
11th January 2012 - 10:01 PM Last post by: Hugh16 |
Hi All,
Noobie here.. I have purchased a ASX Asphire and just wanted to know others who have experience a problem with their GPS.
The problems I have is that the directions it provides are mostly not correct in regards to the quickest or shortest ways. Also a lot of the time actually gets my a lil lost before it finds a correct way. A couple times makes me exit a highway or motorway and return to it.
I'm in progress to report to Mitsubishi but before I do I wanted to know how common this is?
If you have a solution or have experience similar problems please reply, would like to hear your story
Thanks
All....
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steve1543 |
173 |
11th January 2012 - 08:15 AM Last post by: steve1543 |
Hi,I have just purchased a 2007 shogun diamond. when pressing search on the radio it just keeps searching but never stops.on doing it manually it will play a radio sation.that ok if you know the radio staions but in a new area its a pain.has anyone had or know what the problem could be?
thanks steve 1543
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04 sport back |
349 |
12th December 2011 - 07:20 PM Last post by: 04 sport back |
I have mounted my normal Tom-Tom GPS into the cubby hole storage place of my 2004 lancer sport back ralliart I really wanted to post up some pics but I'm on my phone and I can't figure it from this thing, I will post pics at a later date.
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TexasFury |
126 |
30th October 2011 - 06:37 PM Last post by: TexasFury |
I have the unit out, took the top off and can see the top CD. What else to do to remove the disks without damaging the unit? This changer has a CD ERROR code, so want to try the workaround where you only have one disk in the unit at a time for it to work, before I look for a replacement unit. Thanks.
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tikki |
495 |
28th October 2011 - 01:34 AM Last post by: rallyart |
hi. have any one of you mounted an keyless entery sytem on a lancer 97mod?
or can give me a tip on how to. where can i find the two cables, and what colours do they have.
MITSUBISHI LANCER VI sedan (CK/P_A) 1.3 12V (CK1A)
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rallyart |
398 |
28th October 2011 - 01:29 AM Last post by: rallyart |
Hey guys i bought a 2004 Montero recently, and its got an aftermarket keyless entry system.
It had this problem where the unlock key didnt unlock on the first attempt. Instead you should hit lock first and then unlock to unlock the vehicle. Its not a problem with the remote because the lights flash when i hit unlock, even though nothing happens.
I figured the keyless entry system must be faulty so i replaced it with a new one, but the problem is still there.
Whats weird is, if i lock the vehicle, and within a few seconds hit the unlock key, the car unlocks.
But if i wait a few minutes and then try to unlock, it doesnt (lights flash though). I must hit lock, and then unlock. Pls help !!!
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epic_endeavor08 |
232 |
7th September 2011 - 03:34 PM Last post by: epic_endeavor08 |
Hi all,
I just bought a used 2008 Endeavor. I'm coming from a Mustang GT with an Alpine and a USB hookup for music.
The Endeavor doesn't have a USB output obviously from the stereo. What would it take to put that in? I'd most likely take it to an audio shop, but I'd like to know if it's possible and what it entails.
Thanks.
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waltk |
156 |
8th August 2011 - 06:09 PM Last post by: waltk |
i need a radio for my 3000gt.
the cd changer in the back is still in and so is the amp under the passenger seat.
however wiring from radio to the amp is gone.
working please.
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5
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NetraLee |
276 |
8th August 2011 - 02:46 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
Recently our 08 Mits Endeavor has been displaying an audio issue.
The display (where time/station normally appear) shows, "E DC". Neither Radio nor CD player function.
This is an intermittent issue (my favorite kind!). It occurs both when initially starting vehicle, or suddenly while vehicle is in use. I can discern no common action that brings it on. Also, bug will also disappear at random, and both radio and CD return to normal function.
Any thoughts on this issue?
Audio system is factory issue; vehicle has 42,000 mi.
Thanks!
NetraLee
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wrwaustralia |
14,041 |
31st July 2011 - 10:50 AM Last post by: Cclein69 |
Hi Guys,
I have the Factory Workshop Manuals for the 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer.
Volume 3 has full Audio Wiring Diagrams, Systems Operations, Fault Finding and Specific Testing Procedures.
Each speaker has it's own diagnostic test which can be run from the Head Unit Display.
If you own a 2008 Lancer, I'm happy to email the PDF File (20.6 Mb) which will cover all Chasiss Electrical.
Warren
Melbourne, Australia
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JoshAce |
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21st July 2011 - 02:22 AM Last post by: JoshAce |
The electronic locks on my 2002 Mitsubishi Galant are suddenly behaving strangely.
The driver's lock switch is no longer controlling the other 3 door locks.
The driver's lock will close the lock mechanism, but it pops back open on it's own. To get the door to stay locked, I have to manually push the lock closed.
The switch is getting power, but is not doing what it is supposed to do.
HELP!
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blackdouglas76 |
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17th July 2011 - 05:58 PM Last post by: blackdouglas76 |
Does anyone have the wiring schematic for the 2011 Outlander Sport? I am trying to install an after markert amp and subwoofer to the stock CD player. I pulled off the front bezel, but there were a lot of wires going on back there. If you don't know of a schematic, is there a harness that works correctly, unlike the one on Crutchfield? Thanks a lot to anyone who replies with help.
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Henryug |
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14th July 2011 - 11:22 PM Last post by: misobichy |
Many car DVD players are connected to the central stereo or head unit. But how to connect a car DVD player to an amp
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Obsessed |
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24th June 2011 - 07:59 PM Last post by: Obsessed |
Trying to figure out which wires I need to hook into so my amp turns on when the radio is turned on. There are a lot more wires than I am used to in my prior installs. Thanks!!!
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theboynextdoor88 |
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29th May 2011 - 03:08 PM Last post by: tinitis |
I am planning on installing a new head unit into my 2000 eclipse. I like the infinity but it is a little outdated. My question is, the display in the dash that shows the time and your current radio station, is there a way to have that serve some purpose, such as constantly telling the time. I would just hate to have that screen in there not doing anything.
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LVLancer |
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14th May 2011 - 10:14 PM Last post by: LVLancer |
Any body know? It would seem there is no blue and white wire behind the head which im used to so where should I hook it up? btw my cig lighter has a short so thats a no go
edit: woke up this morn and shoved the remote in with the windshield wiper fuse and all is well

that crack in my windshield should be growing in no time

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0911Ralliander |
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14th May 2011 - 09:53 PM Last post by: 0911Ralliander |
I just bought a 2011 Outlander Sport with the new MMCS installed. Every time that I try to connect my Ipod via the cable, it does not recognize my device. I have tried with 3 different Ipods, 2 Iphone 4's and an Ipad and they have all had the same connection error. I have also tried using 2 or 3 different brand new cables, so I know that isnt the problem. I took it back into the dealer and they have no idea what is wrong either.
Anybody have any ideas on what else to try?
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winne |
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4th May 2011 - 07:59 PM Last post by: winne |
Is it possible to play a movie with the xtrons sun visor SV01 (dvd, usb ...) and make the same movie playing in the headrests HD705?
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Henryug |
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4th May 2011 - 01:30 AM Last post by: winne |
A layperson who does not know anything about overhead DVD player installation can also complete this type of a project. carrying out the overhead car DVD player installation yourself will also enable you to save a lot on setup expenses. What should I do first
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winne |
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2nd May 2011 - 08:13 PM Last post by: winne |
Hi,Is there a way of changing the viewable picture aspect ratio on the TD714? I believe DVD pictures should be 16:9.Maybe I missed a setting menu somewhere
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TexasFury |
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30th April 2011 - 06:05 PM Last post by: TW2005 |
Greetings, new member.
I need a new changer for my 2005 GTS, and I have found two different part numbers: MR587252 (roughly $90 and black) and MN141260 (around $240 and silver).
Can I use either one? I'd rather spend less money if I can, but does anyone know if I can use either one, or I just need to buy the correct one. None of the Infinity threads was able to clear this up. Thanx!
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Henryug |
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29th April 2011 - 12:11 AM Last post by: winne |
I got problems abt my headrest dvd..the monitors cant be turn on when I start the car..what's wrong
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winne |
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27th April 2011 - 08:48 PM Last post by: winne |
I have a Xtrons CR1502 player. How do you select the AV function? I press "DVD/AV" button and scroll down to "AV IN" and then hit "Enter" which does nothing. Please help!
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safetymedic |
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26th April 2011 - 09:34 AM Last post by: safetymedic |
I have a Shogun Sport 2004, with what I believe is the stock radio (with single cd player). I want to connect a Kenwood 10disk cd changer. The raido has the 10pin connection. The cd changer wont operate. Do I have to override the single in the radio unit? If so, how or is there something else I am not considering. Could there be a compatibility issue? Many thanks in advance.
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liam1992 |
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25th April 2011 - 07:32 AM Last post by: SRSONE |
Hi ive got a mitsubishi radio without the code It says on it MZ312636 (MEX-850CDC) Serial No.ME32203254F089 and below barcode says *3254F089* Can anybody help please
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winne |
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21st April 2011 - 07:52 PM Last post by: winne |
Hi,there.I have just about finished installing an XTRONS TD702G double din unit with sat nav, DVT, bluetooth etc and everything is working fine but I cannot get the reversing camera to work. I have the power at the back of my car to my reverse light, the camera signal cable plugged in correctly. But there is also a pink wire that the handbook says is "reverse in" what do I wire to this? is it the live from a reverse light or earth or something else? Many thanks if you can please help with this.
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Newton1! |
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20th April 2011 - 09:29 AM Last post by: Izerous |
Hi
I have connected a reverse camera to the MMCS on my 2009 Triton MN
Now my Bluetooth and camera don't work.
I am told the Bluetooth has probably thrown a code. How do I reset it.
Btw, I have ripped the dash apart but can't find a separate Bluetooth unit even though I believe it is meant to have a separate unit.
Please help, going nuts trying to figure it out.
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winne |
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18th April 2011 - 08:31 PM Last post by: winne |
Hi there,
We are having a DVD player since 2009, and it getting very outdated any dont meet my requirement, so I have decided to
buy a new one. If you know some good brands please suggest me. I need the one which equipped with latest video formats
and more connectivity. Price is not a consideration.
Thanks a ton.
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winne |
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13th April 2011 - 09:31 PM Last post by: Henryug |
I bought a car which had Xtrons D708 in it and it has a camera on the back where the registration plate is, it has a wire running up to the headunit, but then stops behind it and im not too sure which one to connect it to, as I have tried most of the phono jack things.
Cheers!
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Calmwind |
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12th April 2011 - 07:14 PM Last post by: Z3R0SPL |
Will a Double DIN fit in a 99 eclipse GS with a manual? I perfer not to have a pop out screen and crutchfield says they wont fit, but eyeing it as i havnt yet had time to dig into mine n measure it seems like it would fit. Does anyone know? thank you
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Henryug |
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12th April 2011 - 01:21 AM Last post by: winne |
the ipod dock can be connected to the car's cigarette lighter. Is it around $50?what abt its functions?
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winne |
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10th April 2011 - 09:36 PM Last post by: Henryug |
Hi,
I just bought my xtrons TD717G and havent's had the time to install it yet.
I would like to connect it to a power source to see if it works.
I read somewhere that some other car gps owners powered their unit with just a PC PSU. The problem is that the power requirement of my model is 14.4VDC and my PSU supplies 12VDC.
Will I have any problems powering up the unit this way? Do you recommend it?
Thanks
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Henryug |
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8th April 2011 - 01:09 AM Last post by: winne |
im ging to mount an overhead dvd. some understanding and experience in the task will make the it quicker.could u guys tell me more?
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winne |
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7th April 2011 - 09:36 PM Last post by: Henryug |
How do I set the car maker logo to show at startup?
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Henryug |
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6th April 2011 - 12:56 AM Last post by: winne |
How to Wire Additional Monitors to a Car DVD??where can I mount it easily? Headrest, rooftop or sun visor?
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