Mitsubishi-Forums.com - The UNOFFICIAL Mitsubishi Community This site is NOT affiliated in any way with Mitsubishi or any of it's subsidiaries. Our goal is to provide Mitsubishi owners an information outlet - a means to communicate with other Mitsubishi owners. It is simply a community where fans and owners can get the right information for tuning, customization and general discussions on anything about Mitsubishi. You'll find the answer to almost any question about your Mitsubishi in this site. If not, simply join and ask! We have many willing expert members just waiting to answer your questions.
recently, i got a 1991 eclipse 1.8 for free as a gift. the car has been sitting for about 9 years without being moved. when the guy who gave the car to me parked it, it was still running. he stopped driving the car because the struts had gone out and it was hard for him to keep control of the car (he's and old guy and the car didn't come with power steering) anyone have any tips on what i could do to get this car started again? ive got a new battery and a fuel filter for it. what could go bad over time that might need replacement? ive got it to start once with starter fluid, but im looking to use it as a daily driver soon.
Hello Everyone,,I took my car to get the oil changed and when it was don, they tried to back it out; clutch went to the floor. they put a new slave cyl in and bled it. NO PEDAL. got it towed home and I put in a new master cly and also another slave and bled the heck and NO PEDAL. Then thought the clutch and pressure plate went out, so I put in a new clutch kit and still NO PEDAL. Then I shimmed up the pivot ball and still NO PEDAL. Is there something that I'm missing???I've tried looking for some posts and haven't found anything..Anyone have any idea what the problem could be???Thanks in advance
Hey guys I'm new to this forum, I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a 4g64 engine, I had bought this car recently and it's not very popular in my country, and where I live it's hard to transport the car to the company to check it, Im having an issue with the maf system, when I remove the maf the car at idle state is stable but doesn't have the power to move and the rpm doesn't go above 2000, when I plug in the maf the car rpm drops to 500-300 then goes dead, I already replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the injection system, checked all the electrical wires, checked for post air leakage.. I think the issue is the maf is not for the car but u can't b so sure since I don't know what's the serial number of the maf, thus please if any one could provide me any serial number of the maf or any tip to do I'd b thankful.
I have a 1998 GST Spyder Eclipse. About 2 months ago I started having starting problems. I got in it one day and all it would do is sing. I've never had a starting problem outside of a bad battery and that's not the case this time. After 2 or 3 tries it finally started,drove it for a month with no problems then it started the problem again,singing and won't start. Finally got it started and drove home went out to the garage the next day and it will not start up, just sings. I haven't checked anything but was told it might be the Crankcase sensor. I have 79,000 miles on it. How hard is it to change the sensor and is there a test i can perform to check it? Thanks!!
Sometimes while driving my car will just lose power and shut down. It doesnt shudder or shake and no check engine light comes on, it just turns off, I pull over and turn the key off and it starts right back up. And sometimes it has trouble starting. It runs great other than that. Any ideas?
So glad to be back!!! And this time I mean business like a hit man trying to get paid!
OK, some of you may remember me some not either way it's all good. I am looking for an ITB that will mate like a love bug to my 420A or a shop that can fabricate one from scratch.
Has anyone been successful since my hiatus to install one?
I forgot to check the clearance anyone know how much room I have to work with and should I just buy a stand alone for better tuning or stick with what I have?
Money shall only be a word in my book since I have moved away from my last employers that tried to stick me like a hog on a pit!
I would like to be the first if no one has tried it and then next year I may buy the 2015-16 eclipse if it should hit the showrooms that I have read about in the meantime I got: plans for my baby and I am so happy to: finally get the cash to get started on my project.
I need some help diagnosing an A/C problem in my son's car. Vehicle info: 1998 Eclipse Spyder Convertable 2.0 Liter Turbo Auto trans
A/C would work on start up, but soon quit and wouldn't come back on. Found low side going into a vacuum. Replaced expansion valve and dryer. A/C works fine at first, pressures normal and cools very well. However, after a short time (10-15 minutes) it cuts off (as if cycling) and will not come back on. I tried turning it off for a while and then turning back on. No good. tried swapping relays, again no good. If you shut the car off and let it sit for approx 20 minutes, on restart A/C comes on and works fine. But again, after a little while it cuts off and never comes back on. Has anybody ever run into anything like this before? Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello I have a 5 speed 1997 mitsubishi eclipse GS and when not in gear the RPM needle will not go below 2000RPM (while moving but not accelerating). Yesterday the temperature gauge also got near the hot level so I shut the car off for a few minutes and had difficulty starting it up again. The first time I tried to start it up again I believe some coolant smoke was coming from the hood. After a few more tries it started again (I had to keep my foot down on the clutch for a while). Can you please advise me what I might be experiencing here?
I posted this on a different section of the forum, might not be the best place for it. I copied and pasted my original post. Could really use some feedback.
First off Hello to everyone. New to this site. I apologize if this is in the wrong section, seems like it belongs here. If not please advise.
1996 eclipse GS non turbo, auto trans, no mods, all stock.
At 1300 to 1400 rpms car lunges. Wants to stall out. Its died once or twice. Once I get past that 1400 range it drives like a champ. No check engine light on.
I removed egr valve, cleaned it up real good, replaced gaskets, it is working. I can see the plunger move in and out when the throttle is applied. Throttle body was removed and cleaned up as well, replaced gasket.
Car idles fine, not jumping around at all.
I cannot make vehicle hold at the 1300 to 1400 rpms using my foot. It will shoot up to 2000 or higher. (engine warmed up) If I unplug the Iac I can hold whatever rpm I want.
Of course if I unplug the TPS it goes nuts.
I am thinking to replace the iac, even though I had it out and cleaned up and it checked out good with my multimeter. Ohms checking at 47 at pins 1 and 4 and at 2 and 3. I was thinking maybe the spring has gotten weak or something....
The vehicle will drive crappy at low speeds with the iac connected AND with it connected. When I unplug the iac with the engine running I don't hear much of a difference if any at all. Does this sound rational to anyone else?
I don't have any vacuum leaks. I have checked and check and sprayed every vacuum line I can find.
I could really use some input before I go out and just throw $$ at it.
Ive posted about this in another eclipse forum but Im not getting any input.
Thank in advance gentlemen. I appreciate any help and I will also throw in my 2cents worth when I can.
hey everyone I'm building a 1999 eclipse gsx she's fully stock besides have a big 16g turbo it has the 4g63 motor....I need the upgrade my manifold n turbo gasket any brand I should go with and do they a kit for it? I'm upgrade this first because the stock manifold is cracked thanks for the help
2 days ago I noticed it wouldnt shift into 2nd. Then yesterday it worked fine, but when I was coming off the interstate, it wouldn't shift into second, then 4th. I noticed as I was trying to back out of the parking stall that reverse wont work either. 1st, 3rd and 5th work just fine, it feels like 2nd, 4th and reverse just arent there anymore. The stick goes back to the neutral position but it feels like the 2nd, 4th and reverse just arent there. Ive had this car since it was new and its been a great car, I want to get this fixed.
A friend told me its probably the linkage. Where do I look to inspect/fix the linkage?
So I am new the mitsubishi game . I'm in the process of gettinga 96 eclipse spyder, the car runs great,but the only ththinthat kinda has me sctched about it . Is that when pushing in the clutch it takes a lot of pressure to push it in past the mid way point. I want to know if that is normal of this kind of car or should I be worried about it? The clutch has just been replaced recently. If that info helps any.
My sons 99 GS has thrown a few codes: Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
P1767 & P0700 which are related codes: I am looking to start with the simple stuff so I want to change the EATX Relay. I can not find this relay anywhere online - the part # I got off the relay itself is this 04687146A 68832 2308. Is this a special relay? Is there any trick to changing it out? I removed the bracket with all three relays on it and it looks like it is clipped on somehow.
P0551 - Power steering pressure sensor switch. Not sure how to fix this? I pulled the hose off the unit and cleaned it up a bit as it looked dirty, the hose also has a bit of a kink in it so maybe that is what is causing the code to be thrown.
P0141 - Not really worried about this one yet as it is the rear O2 sensor.
Car seems to run fine but these codes keep popping up and I want to make them go away.
Hello All! I have resurrected a nice 94 eclipse 1.8 non turbo for my daughter's first car. The car sat for 10 years in my garage, ready for paint. It's super clean and now has a sweet paint job (factory paint rep here). I've changed the tank, pump, lines, timing belt, belts, hoses, filters, O2 sensor, Air Flow meter, PCV valve, installed a bi-pass test pipe in place of converter. I'm running NGK Plugs and the burn appears fine. The car smells like it's rich (very light trace of tailpipe smoke), but it's shutting down power, or stumbling on acceleration. When this happens, sometimes you can clear it up by flooring the accelerator for a bit, but sometimes, it simply bucks, looses power, stutters and shuts down. If I stop and turn off the key, then I can start it right back up and am able to take off like a bat-outta-hell again. I'm going nuckin-futts here and really need your advise and expertise. It's my daughter, guys... so I don't really want to, and know it's somewhat pointless to, do anything but drive this little 1.8 as it was designed. 27 MPG isn't bad, ya know!
ANY Help and advise is greatly appreciated.
(when I changed the air flow meter, the car ran fine for about a month, then it's back to being a problem again. )
So i just installed new spark plugs the other day and I am able to startup my car once or twice fine in the same day but wen I try a third time itll startup for about 3 seconds while having the engine hiccuping and stall. After this it will continually do the hiccuping and stall. What should I do?
So I was checking fluids and never even noticed this little thing but what gos in it? Tryed looking up some engine bay diagrams for my specific car and cant figure out what it is. I have almost none left (Looking from the front of the car toward the right side from my perspective)
Hi guys, I'm new to these forums and I feel like this would be a great place to learn about my car from the community's feedback.
My question here today is: what trim (or model) is my car?
*The back end of the car does not display the model type (rs, gs, gs-t, gsx) and so I took a few minutes to inspect elements that were relevant to a trim.
1. My car DOES NOT have turbo or the spoiler (or wing) that is elevated like the gs-t and gsx models so therefore it must be either rs or gs.
2. I looked at the owner's manual and the first thing it says is: "thank you for purchasing the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse, or Eclipse Spyder"
3. As far as I know, the Spyder is only associated with the gs and gs-t, however I also know that the spyders have convertible tops on them and a 2.4L engine. Instead, I have a hardtop with a sunroof on it and a 2.0L DOHC engine.
So any idea of which model it is? thanks a lot guys!
My top is not consistent in coming back up. I can hear it clicking in the back, but it takes three or four time of bushing the button before it starts back up. Has anyone else experienced this problem and how did you fix it?
I have a 1997 Eclipse Spyder that I am lowering, I am installing KYB struts, with Tein S. lowering springs (Front: 1.3” Rear: 1.3”) and GODSPEED Sway Bars. I have 18” rims with 225/40/18’s on now. Does anyone know if I can put 225/45/18’swithout rubbing?
I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gs Non turbo 2.0 16V Problem: Not Getting recharge power from Alt. to Battery , Fuses good, no open ground, Alt is New, Brain Is new 12.04 Volts running , what can i do to jump power to battery
well im trying to buy a ECM for my 98 eclipse the one i bought of autozone doesnt fit. after researching it turns out 98 eclipse with a 2.0 L DOHC non turbo has a dodge motor they came like that ? and for some reason i cannot find a replacement for my computer. the P/N number is 9833AH. please any one help ive tried all scrap yards/junk yards used auto parts in inland empire area in CA. no luck been like this for 2 weeks now.... Any one have any suggestions ? much appreciated
I have a 97 spyder with the 2.4 and just had the head rebuilt and a new timing belt put on. Now, My power steering and alt belt keep popping off. I know my engine mount needs to be replaced soon but I don't see how that would affect the belts. My ac belt tore up bc I need a new pulley but I can't understand why the other 2 belts don't wanna stay on. Any suggestions would be great. I'm going nuts not being able to trust driving the car with the belts the way they are acting.
first of all i cant afford a new turbo so i would like to know if anyone knows where i could find a turbo rebuilt kit for my stock turbo..
also i want to upgrade to a better but cheap exhaust manifold..i have a low budge.. while were talking about this i want to use a wastegate but i have no idea how to install one to a stock turbo what parts do i need besides the wasegate...
i seen pics where people fabricate a exhaust pipe that exits on the front bumper. but still keeps the regular exaust i thinks its called a dump pipe
now how can improve my spark is there a way to replace my coilpacks for better ones.
and what are the best sparkplugs to use on a turbo engine (i want to use iridium plugs) but i'm opened to suggestions..i read somewhere that it si possible to use coilpacks from and intrepid the are called (pigtails) i believe anyways
I had all my motor mounts replaced a year and half ago and just found that they need to be replaced again (you can visually see cracks). I have 97GST that is lowered 1.5, cambir kit installed, eibach springs, 18" wheels on it - any idea of what could be causing this to happen again already?
Im looking for a blow-off valve for my 99 eclipse gst, but the dealer wants $140 for one. On ebay there are several for $30 to $50 but they all seem to be custom fit ones that would require cutting and welding. Id really like a standard bolt on one that is designed to fit. I bought my eclipse new back in 1999, I dont race it, its pretty much stock. Does anyone have any suggestions where i can find an affordable blow off valve that I can simply bolt on? Doesnt need to be fancy, just equivalent to the stock one. Thanks!
I have a 99 eclipse gs-t. The engine likes to idle very high, at like 2000rpm, sometimes up to 2700rpms when the engine is hot. This ONLY happens in the summer months, when its warm or hot outside. It doesn't do it when i start my car for the day, but only when ive driven it around, shut it off for a bit to go in a store, then started it up to go home. What could be the cause for this?
The original owner of my new eclipse has royally messed it up, but slowly and surely she is coming back.
NO JUNK YARDS around me has a 2.0 Eclipse for me to reference.
What I ask is a picture of the camshaft position sensor plug on the 1st gen 2.0 non turbos. Though the turbo ones should be the same. i also need pictures of the harnesses coming off the coolant sensors where the top off cap is (on the engine, not the radiator) and of the plugs going to the oil pressure sending units.
If anyone knows how to adjust the little plug on the backside of the throttle body I would be GREATLY appreciative. I think my high idle is originating from it and I have no idea why it's even there.
Please help me out! I am so close to being finished with this bastard car and these are some of the things that are kicking my tail.
A picture for reference of what I'm dealing with.
And no, I did not remove ANYTHING from that mount prior to the picture being taken.
finished the manual conversion and iv been performing belt changing and small fixes on the 4g63 non turbo engine. i noticed that in the spark plug holes when you remove the boot, that there is rust down there, on the side walls and around the plug. it doesnt look like its penetrating the metal yet, more like a surface rust, is this a bad thing and how would i go about cleaning it out? also should the engine be relatively easy to turn over with a breaker bar via the crank shaft bolt with the plugs in? or is this a sign of low compression. please let me know
does the 1997 eclipse rs have a cabin filter? and if it doesnt can i add one myself? im just wondering because ive been checking advanced and the site says they have an exact match for a cabin air filter.
im replacing the timing belt on the 94 2.0 and i dont have those stupid special Mitsubishi tools that adjust the tension (i think there a waist of money) so how do i know if the tension is right? i didnt even mess with the tensioner, all i did was pull the auto tensioner off and put it in its reset stage. please let me know!
This is kind of a sad update to be totally honest:( I decided instead of rebuilding the car for high performance that I am going to install the extra stock 420a I have in it for now. I don't have the cash to do the hi-perf build right right now and decided it will wait, but in the mean time Id love to drive the car so Im going to put a normal motor in it and drive it for a while. Of the list of mods installed right now will anything conflict or need to be taken out if I install a stock motor with no turbo? Of course other then the turbo lolol. Any information will help so please let me know what you think. Thanks~ Alex
1998 Eclipse GS Hahn Racecraft s16g stage 2 turbo kit HRC portfueler system HRC billet fuel injection control unit HRC FMIC 500cc injectors 3" exhaust
Hey guys, been gone awhile. Got hit in a head on collision on April 23rd and have had a multitude of medical problems going on. Anyway, I'm still puzzling over the fast blinking of the left turn signal on my boys car. I met a guy the other day that owns two 99 Eclipse GTS's and he said that both of his cars do this too. Is this just a characteristic of the Eclipse or have any of you run into and fixed this? I've got him putting new struts on my sons car as I'm still too banged up to work on it. This guy is replacing all four struts, changing the oil and filter, servicing the a/c and detailing it all for $225. I think that's a pretty fair deal. He works at a local body shop and will fix a dent in the door and repaint the whole car for $500. What do you guys think? A good deal or not?
94 eclipse, has wiper problems. for a long time the int. wiper delay would not work, then the home function quit working, so i had to time it just right. then it started blowing fuses every once in a while. of course when you need it most.
so today i decided it was time to check things out. i tested the motor and low and high speed work.
i checked the plug continuity under the dash and found that i have continuity in the off and int at the plug, but for the low and high i have nothing.
doing my research on the great web, most are still thinking that the motor is shot.