just kinda curious if we can get this to kick off in the mitsubishi forums. just post a comment of what you did and we can see if we can keep this going! it doesn't have to nessacarily be today. can be anytime that u just want to throw out there. u can post pics if u want to show what you did as well. its up to u. have fun with it!

like ill start it and hopefully we can keep this going.

Today i got the exhaust on and got the new rims mounted

and last week i put the CAI on, racing seats, new headunit, and projector headlights.

This guide I created works for all models of the 97-99 Eclipse..and from what i understand 96 and later have different wiring colors and possibly different component locations so you could use this as a guideline only.

First things first locate your fuse panel under your dash and remove the 10A fuse labeled Anti- Theft and save it for a spare.
[attachmentid=5410]


Second locate the relay box under your dash next to your hood release latch
[attachmentid=5411]


Third...remove the two 10mm bolts holding the bracket under the dash for ease of access to the rear of the box. Locate the Theft - Alarm Horn Relay..remove it and sell it on Ebay cause you won't need this anymore. Next turn the bracket to expose the rear of the Theft - Alarm Starter Relay .
[attachmentid=5412]


Fourth.. Your looking at the rear of the Theft - Alarm Starter Relay right?
There should be a black wire with a blue stripe clip it and and inuslate the loose wire with electrical tape. Now do the samething to the Light green wire with a black stripe.


Fifth.. Bolt the bracket back into place and now its time to test it!! Roll down your window and remove your keys from the ignition. Now lock your door with the button on your door and shut it. The security dash light that comes on when your system is armed should come on. Then reach in and open the door with the interior handle. If your alarm went off double check your work! If it didn't then good job keep up the good work!

I can't find the old thread I had on here about my talon so I'll just start a new one since it's going to be reborn soon.

Long story short I was chasing issue after issue ignoring my "gut" feeling when the power just wasn't there. 20psi on the e316g should have had me somewhere over 300hp. Even in the auto it should have felt like it had some guts. But it didn't.

I just rebuilt the turbo 3k miles ago but noticed some axial shaft play. So I took it apart and sure enough the thrust bearing showed signs of wear. So I rebuilt it AGAIN.

Since the turbo was off I decided to boost leak test and verify timing (which I knew wasn't going to be right because of the way the car idled and ran). Sure enough there were 7 million small boost leaks that added up to one huge leak. I'm sure that didn't help the thrust bearing at all. Timing was also two teeth retarded on the exhaust and one tooth advance on the intake. The tensioner was leaking.

SO 1 new timing belt and 1 new tensioner later the engine is back in time. The shitty charge pipes that were welded quickly and leaking (so I could move 400 miles) were yanked and redone. The turbo still has the same ported inlet that I've been experimenting with before but is now clocked 180* to point downward. I had to redo my J-pipe for this but I'm happy with the way it turned out.

I'm getting a little more technical in my data collection this time around. I want to see if the inlet mod makes a difference. I'm hoping it does. My theory is that the standard inlet, no matter what size intake pipe, still creates an inlet pressure drop and reduces compressor efficiency. By removing the inlet and milling a 10* taper .012 away from the compressor wheel I'm hoping to increase inlet pressure and compressor efficiency. I want to see over 45-47lb/min from this little guy. The compressor map rates it at about 43lb/min and that's what the typical dsmr is able to get out of it.

The compressor outlet is tapped for a boost reference port to measure outlet pressure. My gm 3 BAR and gm IAT logged in link will give me manifold pressure and temp. I'm trying to figure out a way to measure outlet temps and inlet pressure to have all the values needed so I can calculate pressure drop, IC efficiency, and compressor efficiency. Any suggestions on how to measure temps and inlet pressure are welcome

I'm using this formula, but will need to rearrange when I go to calculate compressor efficiency.

Tout = Tin + Tin x [-1+(Pout/Pin)0.263]/ efficiency


Pics will eventually come I'm just being lazy cause I typed too much.

i ment to start this thread months ago but i lost the camera that i took all of the pics on. so this is how my spyder sits now.
i am currantly working on the back part of the awd swap. first thing i did was remove all the the fwd rear suspension and removed the gas tank. then drilled out the spot welds and removed the fwd gas tank brackets. next i went in the trunk an cut a hole in the floor, right above were the rear subframe bolts were. i removed the fwd rear subframe bolts and replaced them with the longer awd ones. i then welded everthing back up good as new. next was the front subframe bolts. the awd subframe use's differant mounting locations for the front bolts. the holes are already there. cut holes in the inner fender wells to gain acces to were the holes were. i then fabbed up a bolt holder so the bolts would not spin when i tryed to tighten them. welded everthing back up. next i fished the bolts for the awd gas tank straps into thier proper holes. now i am waiting for my rear diff cover and my fuel cell to come. also i haft to get my awd subframe sandblasted and then powdercoated. i will be updating this soon.

Here is how my car sits now, sitting sideways in the back of my friends garage.
[attachment=14605:xyz.jpg]

Here is the Passanger side with the awd subframe bolts installed. i am going to haft to recut the access hole for the front mount because my welds didnt hold and the bolt spun when i tryed tightening it. it sucks trying to weld into a 3in x 3in hole. i also fixed a rust spot i had.
[attachment=14606:car_062.JPG]

This is the drivers side with the awd subframe bolts installed.
[attachment=14607:car_064.JPG]

Here are the awd gas tank bolts. i wrapped a wire around them and fished them thru the frame into there proper location. i am going to tack weld them in so they dont spin when i install the tank later.
[attachment=14609:car_066.JPG] [attachment=14608:car_065.JPG]

that is pretty much it for now. maybe this weekend i am going to weld the rear drive shaft carrier bracket in and fix the passanger side subframe bolt from spinning.

Was sitting in my '90 GSX noticing a huge amount of play in the manual gear shift. I opened up the console and it was pretty clear what the (at least) primary cause is. The two bolt shafts the mechanism rotates on are super loose within the bores. I took it apart and you can see how large the play is at both bolts.



I measured with a caliper and the bolts are about .55", whereas the bores are about .65". Additionally, there's a lot of axial travel in the side-to-side bolt that passes through the mounting bracket. Looks to me both bolts need sleeve bushings and either the mount needs bending in a little or the bolt needs interior washers to prevent the axial motion. Is there any standard solution to this?

At the moment I'm considering dropping by Sears Hardware and seeing if they have any nylon bushings that would fit, though they would obviously be subject to wear.

PS -- Picked up four nylon sleeves that're a good friction fit to the bolts, but the outer diameters need to be reduced. Likely to be an "interesting" project, but at 50 cents each, at least they're affordable .

Here is a list of commonly used acronyms or "shortened" words and what they stand for. The list assumes that you already have a pretty good knowledge of your car already. Please refer to the FAQ thread in the "How To" section for more basic information. As always, please add on and I will keep updating this thread

DSM - Diamond Star Motors. Any 1g, 2g that has a 4g63 engine in it. The 420a does not fall under this category, it is Chrysler made.

OEM - original equipment manufacterer. Anything your car comes with from the factory is referred to as OEM

ECU - Engine computer. Controls pretty much everything that has to do with your engine.

BOV - blow off valve. Vents pressurized air from intake system. Used in conjunction with turbochargers.

Recirc - the pipe that goes from the BOV to the intake. It recirculates the air vented by the BOV.

UICP - upper intercooler pipe. Typically aftermarket and made from metal. BOV mounts to this piece

MAFT - MAF translator. Used in conjunction with a GM MAF

GM MAF - MAF sensor from a General Motors vehicle. Typically 3" diameter with a black sensor housing on top. Installed in UICP after BOV. Two functions include: 1. ability to remove the stock MAF thereby increasing intake flow; 2. allowing one to vent their BOV to atmosphere getting the "whoosh" sound without the ECU corrections that result in poor performance.

BFP - base fuel pressure. 43.5 psi on 2g 4g63 cars and 1g 5-speed cars. 39.5 on 1g automatic 4g63 cars? (please correct me I don't think that's right)

AFPR - adjustable fuel pressure regulator. allows one to adjust their base fuel pressure. To be affective an AFPR with a 1:1 rising rate ratio and pressure range of 30-70+ psi is necessary. This acronym refers to an aftermarket regulator.

FPR - fuel pressure regulator. This acronym typically refers to the stock regulator.

SMIM - sheet metal intake manifold. Aftermarket.

TB - throttle body. Mounts to the intake manifold and regulates throttle operation/air intake flow.

SMIC - side mount intercooler. Stock on 1g and 2g 4g63 cars and mounts right in front of the passenger wheel. Sometimes an OEM supra SMIC can be used as an upgrade but typically refers to the one that came with your car.

FMIC - front mount intercooler. Aftermarket intercooler that mounts in the middle behind the front bumper.

BAR - Metric measurement of pressure. 1 BAR = 14.5 psi.

PSI - pound per square inch of pressure. Standard measurement of pressure

VAC - vacuum. Measured in mm/hg = millimeters of mercury and is opposite of PSI/BAR.

RPM - revolutions per minute. How the speed of an engine is measured.

AFC - air fuel controller. Typically this refers to a device made by Apexi that allows one to make adjustments to fuel at user specified RPM and throttle position.

TPS - throttle position sensor. Mounts on the TB and tells the ECU how far you have the gas pedal pressed.

CPS - cam position sensor. Typically found on the exhaust cam of 420a cars. 4g63 cars use a trigger plate on the intake cam or CAS. This sensor tells the ECU at what position the cams are during engine operation. Cam position is measured in degrees from 0-360.

CAS - cam angle sensor. Found on 1g 4g63 cars. It tells the ECU what position the cams are in.

TDC - top dead center. When the piston in the first cyl is at it's highest point.

CYL - cylinder

TURBO - turbocharger. Uses engergy from the exhaust system to spin a compressor wheel thereby compressing the intake charge and forcing it into the engine.

Injector - fuel injector. Basically it's a valve that opens when an electric pulse is sent allowing pressurized fuel to flow through into the intake charge.

O2 housing - a cast housing that transfers exhaust from the turbine housing/wastegate to the downpipe. OEM on 4g63 turbo car turbo's

DP - downpipe. Exhaust pipe from the O2 housing to the catalytic converter

CAT - catalytic converter.

Mitsu - mitsubishi. If I needed to explain this one you probably wouldn't be on this board

External Gate - wastegate actuator that mounts in an 02 housing or turbo manifold

External Dump - a pipe that moutns to an external wastegate that vents its exhaust outside of the exhaust system.

AWD - all wheel drive. Eclipse GSX, Talon TSI AWD and subaru's are all wheel drive. I shouldn't have to explain this further

FWD - front wheel drive. All 1g/2g dsm's that aren't awd and all 420a cars are FWD

HP - Horsepower.

BHP - base horsepower or brake horsepower. The power your engine makes measured at the crankshaft.

TQ - torque

ftlbs or ft/lbs - torque

WHP - wheel horsepower. The power your engine makes at the wheels.

AWHP - all wheel horsepower. The power an AWD car makes at all 4 wheels.

AC or A/C - air conditioning. Keeps you cool in the summer time and steals about 35hp.

FIAV - fast idle air valve. A valve that has a wax pellet inside of it. The pellet is hard when the engine is cold thereby allowing more air into the engine during idle. This keeps the idle higher than normal and will help warm the engine up. Once the engine is warm the pellet melts and then restricts some of that additional air allowing the idle to come down to where it should be (700-800 RPM)

ISC - idle speed control motor. Found on 4g63 cars this sensor controls idle speed. It also is the reason your RPM's drop and then come back up whenever you are at idle and turn the A/C on.

IAC - idle air controller. A sensor with a plunger that controls the amount of air getting into the engine at idle(warm or cold) thereby controlling idle. Found on 420a cars

MPG - miles per gallon. If you need this explained please google

N/T - non turbo.

N/A - naturally aspirated. Meaning that vacuum is used to draw air and fuel into an engine. This engine does not have any kind of forced induction.

CAI - cold air intake. Usually a long pipe with an air filter on the end. Its meant to extend outside of the engine bay to draw in colder air

SRI - short ram intake. Usually a short pipe with an air filter on the end. It is meant to reduce restriction drawing in more air than the stock intake system will allow.

BRM - something that is ghey or stupid.

Crank - crankshaft

Rod - connecting rod

Stroker - typically a 4g63 engine that has been modified with a bigger crank and shorter pistons turning it into a 2.3L

Destroker - a 4g64 engine with a 4g63 crank, longer rods, and 4g64 pistons turning it into a 2.1L

Cam - camshaft.

WOT - wide open throttle. your gas pedal is on the floor

WBO2 - wide band O2 sensor. This is the ONLY sensor that will tell you your actual air fuel ratio. the A/F gauge is just for show

A/F - air fuel ratio

A/F Gauge - air fuel gauge. pretty light show that works off of your stock narrow band O2 sensor. not accurate, for show only

NBO2 - narrow band O2 sensor. OEM sensor that takes a guess at the A/F to let the ECU know how to make fuel trim changes.

FTW - For The Win. typically used to describe something good.

Well I am gonna be finishing up school soon, so I'll be starting my career hopefully soon there after. As some of you may know I used to have a 97' GSX, but sold it to a friend here on these forums. I've been kinda mapping out what I want to do in my head for a few weeks now, and I want to start putting this stuff down in writing so I have something to reference when the project starts.

Don't have the car yet, but will be looking not long after xmas when some funds start building up again. Going to be going with another 2g DSM AWD. Either a Talon or GSX 5 speed. Going to do a full tear down so I can freshen up everything, and get it repainted first and foremost. Here is the color I am dead set on... I seen it on a mid 2000's Cavalier, and I think it would just look SICK on a 2g DSM. I see forest green Talons, but almost never see any dark green Eclipse's.

Anyways enough about cosmetics. My plan was to do the build over the course of approx 1 year, maybe 1 1/2 years to be more realistic. I am gonna do most of the work myself, minus the body work, and the bottom end of the motor.

Build list:
Stock block internals (7 bolt)
600-650cc injectors
Evo III (real!) Turbo
ECMLink
Stage II Clutch
Cone Filter, and Hard-pipe from the filter > TB
GM MAS
FMIC w/hard pipe
Full 3" Exhaust Turbo back
255lph Walbro
Drilled/Slotted Rotors and SS braided brake lines
Misc bolt on stuff like BoV, AFPR, etc

My budget is about $5-7,000 not including the purchase price of the car. Obviously some stuff might change if I can find it used, or something similar for a better price.

i am not totally sure if this post could qualify for a sticky or not, but i figured we could list the occurances that have happened to us that only the person whom it happened to can know how to explain. these are personal and very accurate ventures that i went through until i found the solution. so therefore its facts, permitted in great detail. theorys are not good topic starters and dont do very well for the person who is trying to fix the issue at hand at the very moment they need it. so if you have an occurance that you absoutely without a doubt know the reasoning behind it, lets post the trial and errors for our members alike and maybe we may come across something that we learned from one another. thanks

for 96 and 93+ motor years 4g63

ok well doing my own trans work and motor work, i have come across 2 very audibles ( sounds) that ive researched 1 on 1 with myself and my car and found out two ordeals. first, if your car sounds like it is ticking or rambling and getting louder and louder to where you think its crankwalk ( look up "crankwalk 4g63" and listen to the sound it makes from the cam sprocket area, it would sound similar) well its neither above, it is your crank pulley. yes your crank pulley, during the event of changing a clutch, i have to turn the motor into a certain position for my clutch spindles and my input shaft to line up, anyways in doing so, when i jumpstarted the car, i accidentally left the socket wrench connected to the crank bolt ( the one with a big square in it) and when i attempted to start it, it hit my inner fender and knocked it loose. i thought i had forgot oil or something ( i did an oil change while changing my clutch) but just turned out to be the bolt became loose and my pulley and/or crank was loose. best solution to fix this you may ask? get a buddy ( if you have one) and tell him to hold the brake ( doesnt matter if its on lift or what as long as you have power to your front brakes) and tell him to put it in first gear, while doing so, put the wrench in righty tighty mode and tighten the bolt. not too hard!!! just like 50 ft/lbs or so.


also, if you believe your number 4 cylinder has a rod knock, its not nessesairly a rod knock, listen. i have had to drain my trans fluid when changing the clutch and i told my buddy to put two quarts in the trans, with trans fluid. anyways, he doesnt tighten the drain plug all the way so it has a consistant yet slow leak, over 1 quart leaks out until my car sounds like something is going wacko on my rod to crank, anyways, started it today after letting it sit for 3 being that i was gonna sell it cuz the sound, and it didnt make that noise, talked to a friend of mine who doubted it was a rod knock, and gave me that solution to fill it up another quart. it worked. best way to add more is to take the vehicle speed sensor out with a 10 mm socket wrench with extention and fill it using that hole, also, the vss is located in the walls of the rear motor mount on the 2g, be careful not to drop the bolt in there!!! close call happened to me, anyways any question? pm me, ill be glad to help!

Too many people on the forum,say there car wont start but it cranks and tries to start.
And too many people check a few things,give up, and take it to the dealer when they could save a lot of money.CHECK THE CHEAP STUFF FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im gonna help out and all the moderators im sure will add things ive missed but here goes.

#1 If you turn the key and nothing happens,Check the battery.This is simple just use an ohmnmeter to test the voltage.Not the battery then check the alternator and all starting circuit wires.Also check to see if the battery wires are corroded.

If your car cranks over but just doesnt fire up....

First see if there is spark.Just pull a plug,And have someone try to start it. (Need help just ask)
Second check to see if there's fuel at the fuel rail.There will be a test port that you can push and fuel should shoot out.

If fuel does shoot out,then have someone stand by the gas tank while you turn the car on to acc.They should hear the pump prime.

(DONT HEAR THE PUMP PRIME) CHECK the Fuel pump relay.Its a cheap part to buy or you can probe it.You will need a manuel though to see how and what the specs should be.Use a multimeter for that.

If you bleed the fuel at the rail. turn the key to acc and also hear the fuel pump prime..
you could have a fuel pump on its way out(aka its not working all the time),
clogged fuel filter,or a hose leak see if there is a puddle or some leaking underneath.

BUT if fuel is at the fuel rail and you have spark,your injectors may be clogged.
You can also backprobe your injectors to see if they are getting a pulse.

If you work and work and nothing checks out....

THEN TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC AND SPEND THE BIG BUCKS TO SEE WHAT THE HELL IS UP.

REMEMBER ALWAYS DO EASY THINGS TO HARD THINGS,too many times has the problem been a $5 fix and you gave up,took it to a mechanic and spent $500.

I don't want this to turn into the auto vs stick argument. It is just for discussion on aftermarket items for the auto trans

I've been in contact with a very nice guy who has developed a manual shift box for the auto trans dsms(1g and 2g) that is very similar to the IPT manual shift box but much cheaper. I also like his design better.

The easiest way to understand what it does is to think of it like an auto stick you can install on your car. You install the box, put your car in drive, flip the on switch and when you push a button it shifts up and when you push another button it shifts down.

the only difference is that, so far, you can't control the lock up clutch or shift pressure with his like you can the IPT version. HOWEVER, his is $165 and the IPT version is $569 not to mention he is working on a way to incorporate those options into his box. This will also appeal to the guys who don't like autos for road course or rally racing.

I've invited him to join our forum to add some input on how these things work. I haven't bought it just yet (but i'm sure I will very soon) to let anyone know how it works. He has had some others use it on other forums like DSMTuners and DSMTrend, and those people have nothing but good things to say.

Any thoughts?

Normally I dont like to link to other forums but there has been alot of 'newer' dsm owners asking some very basic questions lately.
Here's a few links to help people new to dsm's get acclimated with your car.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t43579-ac...t-they-mean.htm

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently...-dsm-questions/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tech-article-archives/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=tech

http://www.dsmtuners.com/wiki/index.php?ti...pecial:Allpages

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/

After reading ALL of this if you still have questions or need help, this is a great place to get what you need with alot of great people willing to help.
At the very least after reading all that info up there you wont sound like a moron when posting here

I know what water methanol injection is and how it works. I am just wondering if it can be used on a daily driver? I have looked at all of the kits and I want to know if there is a way to toggle the system on and off so that it is not wasted on trips to school or if it is best to just leave the system on at all times. Or is it just best not to have it on a daily driver at all? Are the kits hard on a motor (in my case a 4g63)? I have a 97 GSX that is all performance.

LOL well everyone should run a holset as a daily driver. It was hard for me to accept it, though I was witnessing it, but this turbo literally spools as fast as my small 16g with identical mods (I swapped between the two and maintained the same boost for the sake of comparison). It's a great street turbo with more top end / peak flow than many "race" turbos.

WRT boost I run, it settles at 28-30 psi depending on the nature of the weather now. Most of this summer I was experimenting with it a 25psi. Which at even 25psi, the heat from compressing the air is still too hot for pump gas and my 20" X 9" X2.5" intercooler. I run a 3gal/hr nozzle for a fine mist plus a 5 gal/hr nozzle for combustion chamber cooling; and run 80/20 water/isopropynol. This is the big h1c from the 1991-1993 INTERCOOLED cummins turbo diesel ram pickup. They have the 54mm inducer compressor wheel. It flows around 3 lb/min less than the hx35. This puts it right at the flow of a 50-trim and a hair more than a 20g.

I can run around town out of boost just fine without injection. The pump isn't activated until about 8psi. This is what almost ALL decent kits allow. So to answer the question: a decent WI kit won't be on all the time bogging the engine and running you out of fluid. Only there when you need it. At a certain boost. Now DSMlink lets these fuel injectors run just as if the factory installed them: perfectly stoich (14.7:1). 14.7:1 is ideal for fuel mileage and doesn't require knock supression when out of boost, as this is how the factory ecu runs you when unmodified and out of boost (closed loop). Beating around with it is just like any other dsm with 272-style cams. On boost is where things change. . . My dsmlink logs showed 2lb/min more airflow at 2psi LESS boost from the holset at the same rpm , around 5200rpms. The reason is because the wheels are much more efficient. More energy is converted to boost instead of wasted as heat. So less exhaust gases are needed to achieve a pressure threshold. Ball Bearing has nothing on simply more efficient turbine wheels and compressors.

Since it rises to 30 psi by 3400rpms, if I were to play with it at all, most certainly knock supression is neccessary for pumpgas.

Do it.

The Truth About Really Upgrading YOUR Car.

Read it, discuss it, input whatever.



E

Does anyone know what type of effect or damage by neglecting to change the tranny fluid? I just changed mine and it was blacker than wesley snipes. I didnt see an metal shavings, i think. Just worried. Are there any additives than can help shifting more smoother?
Thanks fellas.

I have a 1997 Spyder; I am getting water under the dashboard when it rains. I assume that the drain holes are plugged under the windshield. Can someone help me locate those drains and how to clean them?

ok well since my talon is an automatic it runs 390cc injectors stock, well there's no setting for 390s on the MAFT but thats not my problem as i have 450s.
so my question is what would i set the BASE for the injectors to? i was thinking id have to set it to 525cc injectors because if i set it to 450s the flow change is 0% when obviously there's gonna be a flow change since my ECU thinks i got 390s but i got 450s.

according to this formula 1-(stock injector size/current size) *100 =
so mine would be 1-(390/450) *100 = 15%, which leads me to believe i gotta set it to -15% flow change which is setting for 525cc's........would this be correct???????

i test drove it on that setting and it seemed to run better then when i had it on the 0% flow change 450cc setting.

and i got a 3" GM maf and when i set the mode to 3" maf the car sputters and runs like crap so i had to put on 3.5" maf to make it run GOOD.....?

Hey guys longest time no see!
I ran across this supercharger at eBay and others on the Web have said than once you take it apart and remove the shavings this thing really appreciate works.

http://pulsitemeter.com/xsturbos/xsturbos..html

My question is if it does (And it seems others on the Web are having tremendously good luck) would I need to install low compression pistons?
I would run it on low boost just to see if it works which depending on the battery voltage I have seems to be about a maximum 5 lbs of boost but should be about 2.5 which would be what about 50 hp.
I have seen at another website the guys are using it on V8's???
I just need a removable system for smog check time and or invisible that can be hidden behind the wheel well wall because I like to keep a low profile

If you weren't able to, or if you did, make it to the shootout this year check out this DVD produced by a fellow dsm'r.

http://eosperformance.com/index.php/features/shootout-dvd

Spread the news, it's an awesome piece of work!

I was misinformed about a set of GSX calipers I bought and had powered-coated before they arrived in my hands
Turns out they are 3000GT SL and needed a threaded brake hose
SO I bought 4 lines, inners and outters

BUT the 2g brake line is all one piece , whereas the 3000GT is 2 pieces. How does the hose fit together when you have 3 female ends and 1 male end for the caliper?
Thanks

Trying to do the headbolt mod and cut a few threads off but want to thread a nut on first so I can back it off afterwards.

Went to the hardware store and brought my head bolt. Tried 10x1 10x1.25 10x1.50 and NONE are correct threads. It goes in a 12x.175 1/4" deep but then stops.

I found searching that a 1G uses 12x1.25 head bolts but they didn't have a nut that size at the hardware store to test. Is 2G the same? Or is this maybe an oddball 11mm x something?

Oh... and is it ONLY necessary to cut the rear corner bolt or should I cut a few threads off all 4 of the short bolts? I'm guessing the machine that bored the holes and tapped them did all 4 at the same time so wouldn't that problem exist at all 4 holes?

Another thought was maybe instead of cutting I could put a thick grade 8 washer or 2 on each short bolt to raise it. That will throw the torque reading off but so will cutting a bolt.

Thanks Dave

hey guys i got a 92 eagle talon TSI, well about 3-4 months ago the timing belt shredded like 20 teeth off. The car sat for about 4 months as i thought i had bent valves and no funds to fix it, so the other day i finally decided to buy a timing belt and put it on.....did a compression test and got 160-170 on each cylinder, YAY!! so i started it and ran perfect! Well after driving around for like 15-20 miles i parked and went in a store and when i came out and started my car it started to run on 3 cylinders and about 15 seconds after running it throws a CEL.
Once it starts to run on 3cylinders it dosent stop running 3 cylinders! if i let the car sit overnight and start it next morning it will run perfect until it starts to warm up then BAM 3 cylinders again!!!
Ive checked the spark and are getting plenty of spark, i pulled all the spark plugs out and shined a flash light into each cylinder and cylinder #4 is the only cylinder that is wet inside....the spark plugs have maybe 3k miles on them and are NGK's so im assuming their still good....

I need to fix this ASAP as this is our only car and my fiance is 9 months pregnant!

hey was up guys new to the fourm and i just screwed over my valves the other day on my eclipse and shes hurting i am looking for anyone selling motor or just any parts i could uses to fix mine or preformance parts i love my lil gs and i want to keep it so let me know what u got turbos as well

I've two 14b turbos, one is frozen and the other has a damaged compressor side core flange -- doesn't seal. Can I pickup a small 16g compressor wheel and rebuild the two into a single genuine small 16g? Does the 14b compressor housing support a small 16g compressor wheel or do I need something else?

I get that most want to announce their vehicle aggression via the sound, but I prefer to be laid back in that regard, say sleeper. I'm looking for inputs that calm rear resonators, not goad them. If anyone has suggestions as to relatively laid back resonator sound that still allow the engine to perform honestly, please let me know ! Thanks -- Trevor

Spent time reviewing threads on COP conversions (Coil-On-Plug) where 2000-2003 Chrysler 300M 3.5L or Dodge Intrepid 3.5L (EDITED from Viper, thanks Thom) coil packs are mounted to a plate and replace the OE dual coil packs and HT leads on '90-'99 DSM. I think it looks great and I like the concept (have it OE on my 2008 xB), but I'm wondering how well it really works. From reading (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/199624-gsxr-coil-plug-setup.html), I understand the OE coil has a 1.2 ohm (10A) primary that simultaneously fires two cylinders. The 300M coil pack has a 30A (.4 ohm) primary. The fuse supplying the DSM coil circuit is 30A (also supplies associated circuitry). In order to drive the 300M coil optimally, it would ideally reach saturation current (30A) before firing, but if the transistor pack is intended for a 10A drive, how much more current is safe for it? Ideally the transistors would see no less than the OE 1.2 ohms, but for optimal current through the 300M coils, they would have to be wired in parallel, but that would be .2 ohm and 60A -- seems unlikely the transistor pack would survive for long (and the fuse would likely blow). Only other direct option is to wire them in series for .8 ohm (15A), which would be 50% less current and voltage at each primary from spec, and that appears to be standard DSM COP practice -- but how much of a change in spark energy relative to OE does that result in (as well as optimal charge dwell angle)? According to one of RRE's articles (http://roadraceengineering.com/blog/?p=968), the "Sparktech COP setup ... is one of the only COP kits we see that is trouble free" -- it uses the 300M.

Reading through a few other threads (only a few), there appear to many instances of miss-fire problems after changing to COP. Yeah, it looks great, and I'd love to do it, but can't help but wonder if it's yet another can of worms. Any discussion?

PS. Since learned the on impedance of the OE drive transistors is about 1 ohm, so max OE primary current is around 5.5A. Also learned the stock coil inductance is about 3.5mH -- the COP coil inductance will be less since it's smaller.

I was told a couple days ago that the EVO 1 16G is actually a small 16G, and since I was looking for a small 16G compressor housing, I agreed to purchase the wheel and housing. However, I'm seeing net posts that suggest the EVO 1 is actually a Big 16G. What's the definite truth of this?

I have an Auto eprom ECU that is currently not in use in our Auto TSi (due to using 450's and a 14b in it). If I were to socket the ECU and have a chip made for it, would it work in my Manual TSi? That would be huge savings over either having a non-eprom ECU changed to an eprom board or buying an eprom ecu.

I just got my Flywheel stepped to .609, it was out of the specs ( 606-612) Ideal for the clutch I'm using is .609- .610

Now the machine shop resurfaced my flywheel, but did not mention anything wrong with my PP friction surface.

Anyone know if I can get away with using this PP with the condition it's in? Will it slip? I have never had heat spots on my PP before.

My gut tells me to get it surfaced.

I attached a picture of the PP surface.

Yes, this is something I'm considering, I'm a little weary of the since-new clunk in my OE '90 AWD rear. Is $350 delivered a reasonable price for a four bolt manual transmission LSD rear with everything needed to install? Damn, wish I could edit the title !

I have a '90 and am converting it to COP with dual J722T power transistor packs, problem is, I don't know what the normal operating temperature is ('90 has a J122 and different heat sink). I'd appreciate it if someone could measure it with a thermocouple meter or IR gun with a fully warmed engine (the black case itself, not the connector or surrounding metal). I need to make sure my new mounting location and heat sinking keeps the temperatures no higher than factory normal.

Thanks for your help !

I need to remove the power transistor pack from my '90 GSX. It's tucked low to the immediate right of the timing belt cover and screwed to a bracket that mounts with two bolts. The connector extends over the heads of both screw and bolts. I was able to remove the upper bolt with a 10 mm combination wrench, but the lower one just doesn't want to let go. I've soaked it with penetrating oil, but I'm getting afraid of damaging the head flats. If I could figure out how to release that connector, I could apply a ratchet to the stuck bolt and it would be easier to safely remove.

I've felt around it for a tab and pushed and pulled and squeezed, but haven't been able to get anywhere. Can someone please tell me exactly how to remove that connector?

I have a 99 GST stock I am trying to do a wire tuck and remove anything that I really don't need in the engine bay like a/c, power steering and cruise control. To be honest I really don't know how to do any of this stuff I mean I do know how to remove them but if I do would there be any problems like engine light coming on or my car may not performed right. I been reading a lot of forums and I read about removing EGR now wouldn't that make my engine light come on??? I really would like to get some ideas of what to do to make my engine bay look clean because eight hate having all this wires everywhere.... thanks





Rony

I have a 1992 Eclipse that is not wanting to start at all. i did buy a new battery and new alternator and a new distributor timing is right, it does crank but will not start, but I really don't know what else it could be??????????????????????????????? I REALLY NEED HELP

I have to do a little engine compartment harness work and I'm considering using locally available Dorman 85291 cloth friction tape for wrapping. Any problems with that? (I notice Summit Racing sells it so hopefully it's not too bad .)

Hey guys I have a 94 eclipse that has a 4g37 and will not run it will start but when you give it gas it dies any help appreciated.

thanks in advance

Found this today on DSMtalk.com:

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17386

Is this correct? If so, are there any qualifications?

I'm trying to determine whether I have some kind of fuel leakage problem under my hood. I can typically detect a slight scent of gasoline in the general area of the fuel filter in my '90 GSX. I've been trying to translate it into a hard problem, but so far can't ! There is no sign of gasoline leakage at the fuel filter (either connection) and I today jacked the chassis and find no issues underneath. There are five lines under the chassis and the connections to the fuel return line show no seepage. I finger traced the vent line to the one way valve (under the filter), purge valve and canister (under the battery) and again, there's no sign of fuel seepage. Is this scent of gasoline common, or is it really a problem? I checked the possible ECU codes and they don't include charcoal tank purge.

Okay, this seems silly but I have no choice but to ask because I cant find any information on this topic. I got hit on my driver side mirror. The backing plate came off and the mirror broke. I purchased a new glass and I cant get the backing plate to fasten back to the mechanism. Nothing is broke and there is a small metal braket that wont push back in. I dont want to brake it. Is there any trick to this? It seems like I might have to install the braket first and then the mirror. Thanks if you can help.

This thread is directed to all who view this forum but don't participate.

My GSX died Dec 26, 2007 and it was a long haul resuscitating it, but successful ! That success was aided by my participation in this forum. I've continued to make improvements to my Eclipse and find this forum to be both a friendly and helpful source of input. Unfortunately, I've come to notice that although my photo viewing stats are hugely weighted towards this site (I also participate in a couple others), I'm not seeing the activity it suggests ! Come on people, don't just look, get involved !

Hey fellas,

So Im about to remove the engine and im going to check my bearings on the crank. I was wondering if I can replace the breaings without having to resurface the crank? I mean I dont have much time to send it to a machine shop. I guess if it looks good I should leave it alone. Im going to check with plisti guage to see how much clearence I have. Any thoughts?

I just wanted to know if any of you guys or gals have had the balance shaft eliminated, what are the pro or cons. It looks simple enough and its not to expensive. I'm about to do the timing belt and I need to let the mechanic know what to do. I figure if im not taking the car to the track its probably not worth it. Thanks everyone.

These are on my 1999 eclipse gst. The closest thing I can come up with is to call them "trunk cover hinges". They are little clips/posts that slide onto a bar on the trunk cover, that connect the trunk cover to the inside of the trunk - so that the trunk cover goes up and down when the hatchback is opened. I have attached so you can see what I mean. the last pic is of a broken "trunk cover hinge", that is, the post piece on the end has broken off. I want to know what they are officially called so I can get a couple more to make my trunk cover work properly again

Here is the issue. When driving, the talon will randomly drop to 15oo rpm, WB leans out, car sounds like it is running on 3 or 2 cylinders. It may do this for a little bit, or for a minute or so, then it comes back. I have checked all the wires and connections, all it good. Good fuel pressure, can't seem to narrow it down. It is setting the CEL when it does this, but I haven't been able to check the codes yet.

Here is a video:

Lean video

Has anyone experienced hot oil on your lap while driving? Im just curious because Im installing an oil gauge and it has a fitting in NPT. Im installing the copper tubing run through the firewall. So I was just curious if any of you folks have had any issue with those mech. gauges.

need to know why i am getting oil lots of oil in my intake and air filter tube, also for some reason i have somehow blown a crack in the top valve cover bolt gasket and the oil just bubbles out there to. this is on a 1990 1.8L eclipse. i love this car but i am sick of taking it to shops that dont know what the hell they are doing and am going to bear down and work on it myself again despite my time crunch. the car has a fresh motor new head new block that is .20 over new oil pump and all the goodies no reason that i can for it to do this. can someone please help. the motor is only got 12,467 miles i drove it the other day about 30 mins from home pulled up to a stop and it died and wouldnt start an old fella gave me a jump and it started only if i gave it gas so had to tighten the throttle up to keep it running at idle. got it home but smoked the whole way still had some power ( for a nat. asperated 1.8) got home and oil was draining from the air filter tube ? and oil spatted on front and rear of car also motor. someone suggested pcv valve i checked it it sucks no blow so think that is good. please need help to get my baby rolling again i have dumped enough money in it but not wanting to give up. PLEASE HELP !!!!!

I've got an '88 US 2wd mitsubishi van with a 4g64 and 130k.

I did a compression test today, and got 131-138psi across all four. results jumped about 17psi when i added a little oil to the cylinders.

(i'm confused because the mitsubishi van service manual says the ratio is 8.5 and the compression pressure limit is 119psi...which is significantly lower than mine are reading).

can someone help me interpret the results and diagnose my issue?

It's been smoking quite a bit...(not just when cold) and uses oil.

Just transcribed all my '90GSX mods to my "about me" page (sig's way too small), but I'm out of ideas that appeal (together with having run out of cash )! Don't care for things that are expensive or complex -- I like the more subtle and laid back mods ) ! Unfortunately, I've hit the same wall with the xB2, so I guess I'm gonna be forced to sit tight until something else crops up -- life is tough ()! Maybe I should just try to focus on money for awhile !

The LED wedges arrived today and look perfect to me, excellent brightness match with the left/right.

(bulb in center no lens)


(bulb in center with lens)


(all LED center)


Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for the flasher, guess the vender took a couple days to ship it despite it being priority mail.