This is my issue and ive been trying to figure out of months and ive got nothing.
When I open my passenger side door every time since i got the car the overhead lights come on no problems ever.
When the driver side is opened the lights rarely ever come on.
It works a few times being opened and 99% of the time they just wont come on.
Is there a sensor when the door opens, or a wire that might be messed up? or is it something that no one can answer without having the car


thanks in advance =)

So, I did a bunch of research about upgrading my sway bars and on different companies that offer F+R kits. I decided to go with the Suspension Techniques kit and received it yesterday, began installing it today. The rear bar went in no problem, direct fit. The front on the other hand, has me confused and frustrated beyond my limit. I can't figure out if they sent me the wrong one, or if there is a conversion/fabrication that I need to do. The bar that I got is a lot different from the stock one that was on my car and came with the end link kits while my stock one uses the ball joint links. I really need help figuring this one out! I am also going to email ST to see what they say. I am including pics to help you guys help me. Thanks!!!!!!

And I come to you guys again...
I'm 16 as you know so i don't have a credit card so i can't pay to check vin numbers because parents wont give me the credit card... does any one have an account some where to check vin numbers??

here the vin if you do. whenever you get the time it'd be nice to know what this car has been through thanks

4A3AC74H63E030161

I have a 99GST FWD and i want to change it to AWD so what do I need to make this change??

about 6 months go my passenger side low beam headlight went out and i assumed it had blown b/c when i first got the car the driver side one blew and it was bought with that one. but come to find out the light was fine and still worked b/c i even put it in another car. i have heard from some people that it may be a ground problem.
how can i check this? where does it ground at?
are all the lights grounded separate? i ask this b/c my high beams still work fine. (i actually took the other low beam out and now i just drive with high beams, and it sucks b/c they dont get the outsides of the road)

i am wanting to do a h.i.d. conversion and i was also wondering if while wiring that new set-up, will it fix/replace the ground and solve the problem?
any help will be appreciated

I've been looking through your forums here the past day and it seems like you guys have a wealth of knowledge here! I hope to be able to contribute here soon!

Any-Hoo, I just bought a '99 Spyder GS T. It is a 5 speed with a 2.0 turbo. It's real clean and has 85k miles. I picked it up fpr $5400.

I did not notice until today that there seems to be a problem with the car heating up. It hasn't over heated yet, but it get high enough to concern me. The funny part of it is that it idles and drives UNDER 2k rev just fine, but once the engine revs over 2k, the temp climbs. The higher the rev, the higher the temp gets. As soon as you let off of the gas, the temp drops just like that. It's not a gradual thing, it is pretty instant.

Has any one here had something similar happen to them? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!!!

Hey guys, I know that one is the tempurature sender, but which one is it and what is the other one?

every time i back up i hear a loud popping/screeching/clunking noise which seems to be coming from my rear drivers side area.
im guessing that its the rear cv shaft? i went to every parts store in my town and the next 1 over and none of them could even find a rear shaft for my car, they looked in the books and couldn't even find rear shafts there either....ive searched around on a few websites and no luck there as well.
i checked the boots and none are torn i also grabbed the shaft and tried to wiggle it but it didn't move much.

does anyone know where i can pick up some new rear shafts? the closest dealership to me is like a 2hr drive there...

also, how can i tell if the LSD in my rear end is bad without taking the cover off? someone told me to jack up the rear and have someone hold 1 tire still and try to turn the other and if the tire turns easy then the LSD is bad, is this true?

1 last thing, is it possible to pull my motor & trans out together or am i just gonna have to pull the motor out by itself.

So i am getting new internals in my motor, a new crank, everything because the motor decided to throw three bearings when i drove it off the lot. The crank looked like hell so i am throwing down the 200 bucks for a new one. What kind of break it period am I looking at for all new stock(ish) internals. Most importantly how long till its boost time. I have heard many different things. Note, Everything is pretty gosh darn close to stock. But i do have a turbo timer. And if someone wants to explain how that works i wouldn't mind hearing that lol. This is all in my new 1998 Eclipse GSX.

Hi, I have a problem with my car. I recently replaced the MAF sensor because it was supposedly bad but the problem persists. When the car is cold everything runs fine and stays normal, but once it warms up, the RPM needle starts hopping and it doesn't idle. Also, when I try to rev the engine when it is doing this, the car chokes. Please help. This might help ... when I unplug the MAF sensor it idles fine and no problems (New MAF). I have a 1997 eclipse spyder gs (2.4L).

I drive a 95 eclipse rs and when i turn sometimes i get this nasty squeking grinding noise. all the joints have been checked. this only happens when it wants to. the passenger side started first but the driver side is starting to do it. has any body had this problem? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all,

I have a 98 GSX automatic with 76,000 miles. It is mostly stock aside from an Injen SRI. I changed the plugs and wires (about 10,000 miles ago). About a month ago I started pulling the dreaded P0400 Ecu Code. It started happening once a week and now comes on every other time I drive the car. I looked it up in the FSM and found it to be the EGR Flow Malfunction. It only happens on deceleration or while the car is on the highway cruising. It never pops under acceleration. Let the diagnosis begin....

I searched the forum and FSM and found it is usually one of five symptoms....

1. EGR Solenoid
2. EGR Valve
3. Vacuum hoses
4. Intake Manifold being gummed up with carbon
5. ECU


I began by testing the solenoid. I hooked it up to a vacuum test and it failed to hold vacuum. I also hooked it up to my Multi-meter and Ohmed it out. It failed there too. If I remember correctly, the resistance was something like .77ohms and the FSM states it should be .33ohms. I went to Mitsubishi and ordered myself a solenoid. Before I put in the new one I decided to test it. The new one held the vacuum as it should, but ohmed out at .70ohms (similar to the old one). Maybe my meter isn't quite so good anymore?

I drive the car for about 2 days and then pop the code again. This time I double check the vacuum lines and pull off the valve. I vacuum test the valve and it works properly. I decide to clean it out with Carb cleaner and then reinstall. I also cleaned out the port that goes to the intake side with the spray and a one foot piece of 4AWG speaker wire. I cleaned out a lot of gunk and buildup.

I drive another two days and pop the code again. Now I order a new valve and gasket from Mitsubishi. I install new valve and gasket. I drive the car for 4 days and pop the code again.

Last night I pulled apart the Throttle body to make sure the port from the EGR is not gummed up with carbon. I sprayed it down while I was there, but it looked clear. I checked the valve, and it too was fine.




My questions are...

Could a Vacuum leak after the EGR be responsible for the code? All the hoses to the solenoid are fine. Both the hoses hooked to the Valve are fine. I have pulled them off and vacuum tested them for leaks and I get none. I have not followed the yellow striped vacuum lines down to the next component or beyond.

The solenoid I bought new from Mitsubishi didn't Ohm out correctly. Maybe, by some small chance, the solenoid I ordered new from Mitsubishi is defective? While it does hold vacuum properly, it does not Ohm out to the FSM specs. Is anyone else willing to test their solenoid and let me know what the #s are?

What are the chances of it being the ECU? Any way I can test the ECU other than swapping in another one?

Are there any other EGR components I am ignoring? The FSM mentions a thermal valve, but only on California models. I don't think I have a California model. It also mentions another solenoid (can't remember the name), but I have yet to find or test it.

Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated. I am at my wits end and about to bring it to Mitsubishi.



Thanks,

Sean

its pretty straight forward...but

when you run your power back though the car..

how to you reconnect everything that was orginally attached to the postitive ternmal?

I was wandering if anyone knew what size the stock injectors are in the gst and gsx? On another discussion i picked up a fmic for 75 bucks this weekend brand new in the box hasnt been used yet guy just needed the money cause he wrecked his car. Its 30 in long 12 in tall and 3 in thick with 3 in inlet and outlet. Then my buddy sold me his used blitz bov and flange for 50 bucks. (Going to replace the ebay hks knock off the dumb ass put on the car before me.) And my Greddy e-manage came in!! but instead of it being the regular e-mange turns out I ordered the e-manage ultimate!!! The things that thing can do is amazing!! Taking the car monday to have it tuned!! Unfortunetly I onle have a fmic evo III turbo and blitz bov :/. I have a stainless steel cat back but its only 2 1/2 in. You guys think I should put it on until I can get a 3in?

ok i really just wanna know around how much would it cost to get a head gasket replaced on a 99 eclipse gs (420a)
and would i beable to do it myself? my mom's bf is a mechanic and has been for like 15 years or so and he is acting like this is a HUGE job and its gonna cost like a thousand to replace but from what ive read and all it just looks like around 150 DIY and 150 + around 300 labor.
either way can someone help me out? were gonna do a compression test this weekend to see if thats what it is.
thanks

WTF was mitsubishi thinking when they designed the starter for the 4g63?

IT"S DIRECTLY in the MIDDLE OF THE FUCKING ENGINE both vertically and horizontally.

now, the intake manifold is in the way from the top,

the transfer case and half shafts are in the way from the bottom along with the exhaust.

WTF?

I'm not certain it's the starter per say, i'm going to test the starter relay switch first but, if that's a no go since the starter sounds "jammed" and there is no "click" upon turning the key, I might just have to try the new starter out.

Now, OBVIOUSLY ripping the engine out would be very easy, and time consuming but,

is there any stories out there that someone can share to make this VERY simple like it should be?

I mean, yes the starter is held only by two bolts but fuck man, if only I had rubber bones so I can go go gadget the shit out of that old starter and in with the new.

SO,

1.No click upon turning the key
2.Lights dim as if power is being diverted like it should when turning the key
3.NO SOUND at all from the starter, no"whirring"
4.Fuses are all OKAY
5.Clutch switch is installed and adjusted properly

Final question: How the F can I get to my starter without tearing half or the whole engine out? (I got big hands and arms)

What do I need to do to "install" this 3bar map sensor besides just hook it up to the stand alone ... i was wondering because it has a type of vaccum nipple on the bottom of it and i was wondering if it needs to be ran to a vac/boost source... thanks

will my '93 3KGT wheels and tires fit my '99 RS? These are 17 inchers - not sure on tire size, which seems a lot bigger than the 14's on my RS, but I put th wheels side by side and it doesn't look that much bigger. Depth might be an issue too though...
-AA

i have just recently put an lsd in my tranny but i dont know remember were the plastic oil guide goes thats all im missing to finish the tranny and put my motor in the car if anyone knows exactly how it goes on the 2g with pictures so i can see it exactly i would really appreciate it

Ok so if youve read some of my other posts, i've mentioned that i got a free rs. It sat for 2 years so theres some maintenance to do. Who would recommend a new fuel filter and a tranny flush(or drain, tell me whats best for my car. I've heard so many different things). Thanks!

OK I GOT A MACANIC TO CHECK MY CARE CUZ THE COOLANT WAS MIXING WITH THE OIL HE SAID I MIGHT BROKE A PISTON WHAT YOU GUYS THINK IS IT THAT OR THE HEAD GASKET CUZ IT STILL TRUNS ON AND EVERYTHING

LIKE FIRST BEFORE THAT HAPPEN I HAD PUT COOLANT EVER SINCE THAT IT STARTED SMOKING WHOTE SMOKE OUT THE MUFFLER

New here. We just bought our son a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. The seats while not in too bad of shape except for the drivers seat that has a 10 inch rip in the side that was hand sown up. Plus they are pretty dirty, especially the back seat that smell like a baby puked in it. Anyhow, I found some seats from a 95 Eagle Talon that are in nice condition and was wondering if the front and back seats would swap out without any problems. I will be getting them in the morning for $125.00. They are cloth, but the ones in the car now are cloth so it really doesnt matter. Is $125 a good price for a complete set of seats in good condition? Or can you get them re-upholstered for about the same price? Thanks.

hey guys my friend is getting rid of his evo9 steering wheel i just wanted to know if i could fit it in my 95gst?...

hey im wanting to lower my 98 spyder gs strictly for looks and good ride i have 18 in rims on her so keep that in mind if yalls opinions on what struck/shock/spring combos or just springs would be great im not a cheapo but i would rather not spend 1000 bucks on some full out coils so any ideas would be great, Im not trying to slam it to the ground either i just want to take the gap out of my wheel whale so prolly just around 1.3 to 1.5 drop would be just right... and what about camber kits? i have attached a few pictures of my car so yall can get an idea

I am new to this forum and also new to DSM ownership. I am attempting to swap a 2g 4g63t into a 1g 4g37 Eclipse. I know about the wiring harness and ecu, the problem I am having is with the transmissions. Will the 4g37 transmission work or do I need the 4g63t transmission? Any help would be greatly apreciated. I have been searching the other posts and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Thanks alot guys!

I have recently replaced the tail lights on my 98 Mitsubishi eclipse and with that my "ECLIPSE" on the back of the car also disappeared

The backend of the car looks wickedly amazing now btw!

I would LOVE to have "ECLIPSE" on the back of my car again but can not find anywhere that sells raised logos/decals.

Can someone offer any suggestions?

Thank you,
Leslieg

I just got a Tec 2 Standalone for my eclipse ... it was kinda sorta setup for a starion but it has all the injector clips that match the eclipses injectors... I was just wondering if anyone is running this system or knows of anyone running this system

Ok i have a 98 eclipse gs-t and it has a problem when im driving at certain times it will miss and start shaking real bad and the check engine light comes on but then when i Come To A Complete stop and shift back to first it stops doing it any clue what this could be please help thanks

My power locks wont work at all on my 96 eclipse...where do i start?

Hello all !!

I'm searching a wing to my Future 2G eclipse..
So I've search It on ebay motors, And I found the wing west commando wing :



and later, I found a beautiful wing on a little adds for a rear bumper :



Impossible to know the model of the Wing, the seller don't want to answer me...

Someon here know this wing ?? thanks to telle me the model, because this is THE wing I want ^^

bye !


PS:: please excuse my english...

ok so i just bought my 91 gsx and i notice that the oil line on the top of the turbo is leeaking oil at the banjo bolt . this is my first turbo car so i am a bit lost as to what i need to do to fix this problem. its not leaking oil like crazy but you can wipe excess oil off run the car and you will see oil seeping out . the oil return lines and the coolant lines are cool . if it helps my turbo says TD05H . everything is stock on the car to the best of my knowledge except for a greddy B.O.V.. any help would be apreciated. thanks

Well i knowist that my car was throughing alot of white smoke and i figured that the coolant is mixing with the oil ne tips how to fix it
?

You want to get a cold air intake ... don't ... I don't care how cold or how much you want that 1 extra hp to the wheels ... I went to NOPI Nationals(not called that now but same difference) this passed weekend and it rained pretty good for 4 or 5 days straight ... a friends xA of mine went down, bent a rod, my friends (307whp)SVT Focus went down, messed up maf, and we had to rig up something for my friends G35 for the maf to keep on working ...

Hello there, I am a new member to this site in need of some mechanical help. I recently changed the water pump on my 99 GST. My timing went off and I was able to set it back up. I was able to line up all the timing marks and the car started up with no problem. The only thing I noticed was for some reason my exhaust is alot louder and now I cannot hear the bov when reving the engine in neutral, something I was able to hear before I messed with the timing. (BOV works fine when shifting) Does any one know the reason why this is happening? Could the exhaust and intake sprockets still be off? and which are the timing marks to the camshaft to the block just to make sure I set those right? Please help!

Okay i was loading up my 6 bolt 4g63 to take to my dads house to use his hoist and stand, when me and my friend was loading up the engine in the pickup my friends arm hit the flywheel and turned the crank with out a timing belt. it was at top dead center compression stroke when i pulled the belt (DUH) and the furthest it went was 180* degrees out does anybody know how many degrees maximum you can turn the crank without hiting a valve? and i dont feel like pulling the head again and changing valves.

Whats the easiest way to remove the pressed in motor mounts to put urethane mounts in ... I know you can use an arbor press or most any press of that sort ... just wondering if there was a diff way?

hey guys, where can i get this engine mount, the front left of the motor, next to the timing gears cover, it has like an L shape bracket with it, 91 eclipse turbo, FWD, any have the part number would be nice, i can't get it any where, they don't show it in the part store, no mitsubishi dealer, around me for 50 miles

Looking for some member rides for photo shoots and some possible upcoming video/movie productions. Locations and times will vary greatly as there are several photographers. PM me if you have any interest in having your vehicle(s) photographed/filmed either now or in the future.

Right now im running a T4 turbo. but i need to get a few things to support it. is it safe or how bad will it be to run 650/680cc injectors with a AFC? i was told it will not tune good and it wouldnt be worth my time. I plang on getting a 16g again when i can afford one( my old 1 was a nice paper weight) so my buddy gave my a T4 setup. u can tune a afc with 680s right? i was told u can cuz ther really more lik 650s. I just dont wanna run stock injectors n fuck my car up so im goin to take it slow n get part by part. ill bet gettin the IC piping here soon i think and then after that prolly the injectors. let me know what u all think and maybe if thered more i should do. (remember this will be a temp setup mainly gettin all/the rest of the mods i need for a 16g but will be runnin the T4 till i can get a new 16g)

order and installed a jdm motor ( it was cheap ) well it came with the ecu well its got three plugs not 4 like my 98 gsx ecu so i suppose im not gonna be using this one. well i crack it open and it turns out its an eprom ecu. well i did some searching and its from a 95 rvr awd auto car. its an eprom ecu for sure. anyway to use this in a us spec car or should i use it as a paper weight?
just curious..i also have the tcu which is the same so i might use that and try it out!?!

98 gsx ordered jdm motor and trans. its from a rvr. motor is in still having a few bugs with that. cant keep it running without it bogging out when i hit the gas unless i feather it then the idle is completely crazy going high then low...i do have a cel for a map sensor. will it do that??...and my main headache is my tranny is shot so i was looking forward to the new auto trans going in. only upon install the mechanic said it wouldnt work cuz the half shaft was too short by like half an inch. how can i find the correct half shaft im pretty tired of messing with this thing and just ready to order a ipt built trans. any ideas on the fix for this crap

Here's a quick question for the forums. My '99 2G will sometimes die when I push in the clutch to come to a stop. It will sometimes do it when I'm driving it normally, and most of the time will do it when I have it at WOT and finish my run. I had a suggestion from a friend who builds 2G's, and he said it could be the IAC. If this were the case, I would think that it would idle rough and have a hard time staying alive. It idles perfectly well. Any other ideas as to what it could be?

My car will maintain speed on it's own above 15mph, when I go below 15mph, its like i hit sand then it decelerates normally, When I hold in the clutch above 15mph rpms stay at 2000k, when the car is below 15mph the rmps are a normal 1000k.. I had a code for an o2 sensor and a map.. replaced the o2 sensor and nothing... COuld the manifold absolute presser sensor be doing this? It only does it at a certain speed? It's wired how it only does it at a certain speed. If it was a vac leak, idle air control valve, or throttle valve im assuming it would do it all the time? Help lol