Hey guys, I have a VR4 legnum 96 running stock, now and then when im driving
my car will shudder not heavy but easly noticed , happens mostly around 2, 2.5k rev's, dosnt hapn all the time somtimes dosnt hapn at all but it shudders, eg..if shudder were to happen will only occur during acceleration, increase acceleration up above 2.5k and shudder stops or deaccelerate and shudder stops , not normal, machanic
told me i needed to flush and change tranz fluid, he wud do all for NZ$160, im not to sure what to do and if this machanic telling me correct info and not just trying to make some bucks off me eh,

help would be good.

thanks polarbeast

My 1994 galant exhibited overheating and it consumed oil.
I sent it to a garage where they top overhauled and at the same time the timing belt was replaced.

While the overheating and the oil consumption had been solved. New anomaly came up. The engine suddenly stops. After this the engine can still be started but cannot rev up.
I must then wait for quite few minutes and re-start. After than then it is ok.

Anyone out there who knows this? please help!

So I am having a problem with the defroster. The selector knob blows consistent air on all of the settings except for on full defrost. When on full defrost the air to the windshield is very faint not coming out too strong. But you can certainly hear that the fan is on high. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should check? Any help would be greatly appeciated.

I have some bad lower ball joints in my 1996 Galant. I have purchased 2 lower ball joints and 2 outer tie rod ends. Do the upper ball joints have as many problems as the lower ones? My manual shows 4 ball joints on the lower side. I purchased 2 and no one really seems to know about the other 2. Anyone have info on these?

Okay, I hope someone can answer this for me. My brake light switch went bad so I went to my local parts store and picked up a replacement for $40. Got home and removed the old one. Simple so far?! The old switch has 2 connectors mounted to it. The first has 4 posts and second has 3 posts in it. The replacement that they gave me only has a single connector for the 4 post connection. Went I questioned the dealership today they simply stated that I don't need the other connector, as did the parts store. I asked them what it went to and they said that they were not sure. What the **** kind of an answer is that?
Is it possible that the OEM version of the switch does not require the second connector? What does it go to?
Any information would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you,
Brian

1994 Mits. Galant with cruise control

Hey guys, do you know where the Radiator Fan relay/fuse located in my 98 Galant. My driver side radiator fan is brand new and is not working. This is the second fan I have installed.

hi conflicting info for my 98 Galant, one book says 54000 for the cam belt one says 60000 and one know which is correct?

cheers

mike

Ok. so i had a problem with the ignition switch. the key wouldn't come out. i replaced the ignition switch. Right after i changed it ( while it it was still in park) it came out no problem. As soon as i put it into drive and took it for a short ride around the block and parked it the key wouldn't come out again. any help would be appreciated

Hi all, anyone got any clues on getting the damn sump off when all the bolts are removed, or do I just hit it with summit, lol ??

Hey guys, my 98 4cyl auto galant feels very sluggish under acceleration. I've cleaned the throttle body completely, bought but haven't installed the fuel filter yet. I know it's not the tranny. The car sounds alot deeper but feels like it's only producing 80hp not the 141hp. I give it full throttle off the line, after 2000rpm it feels like turbo lag (I have no turbo) throughout the entire rev band and feels like something is robbing it of fuel and timing between 2000rpm to 5000rpm. The poor engine feels like it's gonna fall apart if I give it any more power. I'm taking apart the intake manifold on Tuesday to see if there's a blockage. Can it be the injectors need cleaning or replacement. Also my distributor cap is leaking oil could that be the case? I have installed a new fuel filter and a new Walbro 255 lph fuel pump which now the car feels like it has gotten back 30hp. I'm still losing power after 3000rpm and I think it's my distributor cap which is leaking oit. She idles fine so I need your help... Thanks

Hello everyone, I have a 1994 galant S. The car recently through a code 43. I assumed it would be the EGR valve since the valve was really stiff to move back and forth. So I replaced it, reset the battery, did the drive cycle, and then the code came back. I see that the EGR system is made of the EVAP control solenoid, EGR solenoid, EGR temp sensor. I don't want to throw each of those parts at it, without knowing which one is truly bad. Could someone point me in the right direction with how to check the EVAP control solenoid, EGR solenoid etc?

HELLO I JUST PURCHASED THIS GALANT IT IS A 1996 ES 2.4. THE CAR HAS THE ORGINAL KEY BUT WHEN I PUT THE KEY IN THE CYLINDER TO START IT IT DOES NOTHING BUT LIGHT UP THE CLUSTER AND ALL ELECTRONICS IF I SHUT IT ON AND OFF A FEW TIMES THEN IT WILL START WHAT CAN IT BE. THANKS

I WAS WONDERING I AM GONNA DO MY OIL CHANGE ON THIS CAR I JUST GOT IT. ITS A 1996 GALANT ES 2.4 NOW IT KNOCKS WHEN I START IT AND THEN IT GOES AWAY AFTER IT WARMS UP.

Hello all...I'd like to know the type of oil that is best for my GDI 1998. Its clocked 100,000 k. I hear some say synthetic and others saying conventional for the same reason - age. I also know that a thicker oil is best for this age car, but I just put in 20-50 havoline conventional and its making a lot a noise as if its too thin???!!!

Thanks

Duane

I have a 94 Galant GS 4G64 DOHC, my battery died the other day, I got it jumped, and took the alternator in and tested it. If failed, I replaced the battery and the alternator, since the battery was kinda old. Now it runs fine, but when you shut it off, the battery drains. I have some sort of electrical problem and I have no idea where its coming from.

I have good voltage when the car is running both at the battery and from the alternator, but when you shut it off and put a voltmeter on the terminals, the voltage drops. It killed a new battery in about 5.5 hours.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm good with electronics, I just need a place to start looking since I'm new to these cars.

Thanks

Jeff

Hi I live in New Zealand. I have recently bought 1997 Mitsubishi Galant VRG GDI 1.8 Litre. I bought this in a private sale. For few days it worked well. Every day when I start the vehicle drives fine for some time and then the vibration starts after 3 to 5 KM of driving. Especially when driving uphill and accelerating while driving 40 t0 50 Km speed entire vehicle gets shaking noise.

I have spent all of my savings on this car for buying and fixing repairs (tyres and servicing) I took it to mechanic to for a check he couldn’t figure out what this noise is and asked me bring vehicle later as he was busy. I am not really sure what this problem is please advise me what it could be. I have very little mechanical knowledge.

Hi Guys, I hope you have better car days than me. My faithful Challenger, 3.5L petrol now shows me the orange engine light. I can only rev up to 3000 revs then she starts coughing. The fuel pump sounds ok. I suspect, this has to do with one of the sensors, but have no idea where to start. If somebody has experienced this problem, please help. I know the engine is healthy, but no idea how to correct this fault. I am not driving the car right now. Fortunately it's summer and my new Suzuki Boulevard M-50 is my latest mode of transport.

Any help is much appreciated.


Roy

I have a 95 Mitsubishi Galant that I use for work.

It has been having issues with it stumbling while I accelerate for a little while now. But now it will barely accelerate at all.

The plugs, wires and air filter are 2 months old, the cap and rotor I replaced yesterday, along with the fuel filter.

I checked the wires for arcing, but saw no signs.

The check engine light comes on, but not when this issue is present. For the last 4 days the check engine light has been off, but the issue has gotten worse.

I can hear the fuel pump working before I turn the key to start the car.

Tried some commercial Injector cleaner on a whim, nothing.

Checked the Mass Airflow sensor, it looks clean to me.

The car idles fine, 90% of the time. Sometimes it drops about 400RPM and sputters but jumps right back to about a 1000Rpm idle.

It used to be that it would simply stumble at lower RPM's but when I got it above 2k it would smooth out and accelerate just fine. But now, I can barely drive the thing.

One important detail: When the engine is cool, the problem is not so pronounced. When it gets up to normal operating temperatures, the issue is severe. We thought this might be an issue with the Catalytic converter, but when we disconnect the exhaust it does the same thing.

I am going to check the TPS, Fuel Pressure regulator and the ignition coil.

Any suggestions on what I should check next?

could you help me?
i have mitsubishi galant 1997 VRG, 1.8 GDI japanies.
i am interesting where can i buy timing belt and part number?
as i know when changing the timing belt also have to be change other small one.

I'm a noob from USA with very little knowledge about cars. Please advise what to do to fix this problem.

The story: Bought a 1997 Galant whose transmission "kind of" went out on the 3rd day after purchase. I say "kind of" because it works, but only up to the 3rd gear, reaching a top speed of 25 MPH. Once it hits 25, I have to slow down, wait for the (lower) gear to engage again, and then accelerate. However, if the car has been running a while, and it is going downhill, and the speed reaches 30 MPH or beyond, the transmission tries to slow the car down by downshifting. This results in a jerk, and the gear engages at this point, allowing me to accelerate again. If this downshift/jerk occurs 3-4 times, the 4th gear engages, and the car functions fine up to the 4th gear, till the engine's turned off.

Details about the car:
1997 Mitsubishi Galant ES/LS, Engine: 2.4L I4 MPI/SMPI, Transmission: Auto

Since I live in a city, and can get by with a top speed of 25 MPH, this is how I've been operating the vehicle for about 9 months now. Couple of mechanics listened to my story and told me I have to change the transmission. Can't afford that.

Is there some other solution to this problem? I have no idea where to look or what to do. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

P.S.: If replacing the transmission is the only solution, what other models' transmission are compatible with a 97 Galant Auto Trans?

Hello, I have noticed my car got a replacement tranny with the model number W5M33-2-MMZL and I need to know if its the correct final drive gear for my 1998 GSX Eclipse cause I belive that my cars center diff is going to blow.



Please help me!



Thanks

Kendel

Hey, how many quarts will I need to flush my 98 Galant tranny. I cant find the right atf here in Zambia so i ordered 10 quarts from USA. Will that be enuf. Advice needed here plz.

Hello, I have a 1998 Galant ES and I just noticed a few days ago that the air circulation vent stopped working. Usually, when I'd press the button, you could hear the vent open and close, but now it doesn't do a thing. My first thought was maybe a blown fuse, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is and how I can fix it?

I need help

Recap: 98 galant alternator went bad and I had it replaced. At the time it was replaced it was recommended that I get the belt changed also because it looked worn. I got the belt replaced 2 weeks later. AT start up I get this loud sqeeching sound that last like 15-20 secs. In cold it last about 30-45. I took it back and they said because the belt was new they needed to adjust it. They did that and sprayed it with something it the noise stopped for a day. I took it back and they put anothee belt it the noise stopped for about 2 days. It only does it at start up and now it does it when I turn on the air conditioner. I took it back to day and was told I needed a power steering pumb to correct the problem. Would me needing a PSP make that sqeeching noise at start up only. I have had no problems with steering or anything like that. After the car is driven for about 20 minutes no noise at all even if I turn on the air. what could it be?

Hello everyone,
I brought my car to pep boys for wheel alignment the other day and they broke my rear right canber bolt and they said it was too rusty and its not their fault. They said that they will replace it with new one. The next day they told me that they cannot pull the bolt out from the bushing and they have to cut the bolt with torch and I will need a new control arm.
Well I checked the auto parts web saits and I could not find a control arm with ball joint at the end like the one on my car. I think that the part with ball joint on one side and bushing and camber bolt on the other is not called control arm, cuz I can see one more part next to the other one that is the lower control arm and on top of the strut is the upper.
So after all this writing can anyone help me with the name of that part please???
Thanks...

hello, can you pls help me, ive been searching for Philippine made or asian or japanese made galant 97 V6 2.0 users manual and factory service manual download for free. thank you..

I have a metallic screech from my air conditioner area that is not the belt and the compressor is new. Only when AC is on.
Anyone ever have problems with the tensioner pulley, it is the only thing I can think that can be causing this. I took it off and it spins freely but I have no way of checking it with tension on it.
Help much appreciated

i recently bought a manual transmission for my 6a12 engine. the manual transmission number is f5m312zpvf but i did not get any slave cylinder with it now i am having trouble locating one. can any one help me or give me a part number for a clutch slave cylinder that can work on it

dear all

please help me!
i am interesting what kind of oil should be use in gear box for Mitsubishi galant VRG 1.8GDI 1997 year. in my country novebody knows sombody say Q8, others castrol and i could not trust.

thanks in advance

want to know if its possible to top up on trans fluid some how without major work, eg.. taking to the machanic , on the EC5w legnum's on left side of battery, there's a wire dip stick type object, with hot/cold reading at the end could i top up through which this dip stick came out of? , and there's hardly any fluid on it when I checked, so my guess
must be low on fluid and if there's a leakage for fluid to be low , I will have to take it in to a workshop soon but for now just cant afford it, and this is my eveyday transport , so if any one can shed some light on this subject on weather i can just keep my trans lubed for just abit longer, or if um sh**t out of luck.

thanks polarbeast

I have a 2.5ltr twinturbo legnum, now my numb skull girlfren put 91 octane, fuel, petrol, blah blah instead of 96 which i use, in the bloody tank, say about 30 smackers, that filled almost half tank, now will that do serious damage to my engine? yeah blame tha mises:)

any help with this i would be greatful

cheers. polarbeast [FONT=Arial][SIZE=7][B][/B]

I LIVE IN ZAMBIA AND I OWN A 98 GALANT. I NEED TO CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID BUT CANT FIND RECOMMENDED DIAMOND SP-III HERE.ARE THERE ANY ONLINE STORES SELLIN THIS STUFF.I CAN ALSO SEND MONEY IF ANYBODY IS WILLING TO BUY AND SEND IT FOR ME.IM REALLY LIKE DESPERATE HENCE MY DUMB APPEAL.HELP ME OUT please ANYONE.CONTACT ME BY EMAIL IF YOU CAN HELP: CHIRAMBOD@NATSAVE.CO.ZM

I recently bought a 1994 Galant with 136K....at 23 miles per gallon it made sense. I am having transmission issues: Whinning, slipping, and down-shifting when driving at 40 - 55 mph. Today, my problems got worse, it seems to "slip" while going down the road, I can tell because my RPM's were up to 6,000. I barely made it back to my home. The person who sold me the car said that over $2,400 in transmission repairs had been done not many miles ago (although the car sat parked for over 2 years). The fuild level is fine, but can the fuild go bad? I've heard of those additives used to fix transmission issues....is that something to consider. I'm not willing to sink money into this car....it's just not worth it.

Any suggestions?

[QUOTE]am jay from philippines i have a problem in my mitsubishi galant when i try to use the brake pedal it makes some squeak sound. and a vibrate only from the left side of my front wheel last month i have a small accident while driving i did not notice a file of rock on the left side so i accidentally hit that file of rock. and after few days it started vibarting and giving some irrating sound when i hit the braking pedal.. can any one tell me what's wrong and what part of my underchassis and braking need to replace i hope some could help me in my problem or give some solution on it thank you in advance peace...........

Hi all,

We have a 1998 Galant SEI with a smidge over 200,000km on it. Recently had the cambelt and clutch replaced ($$!!) and now it's started making a loud knocking noise.

From my investigations, it seems the hydraulic lifters are stuffed. Because we are as broke as a broke thing at the moment, I'd like to have a go doing this myself. I am reasonably mechanically proficient.

Does anyone have a repair manual detailing how to do this?? Or has anyone done it and can write instructions for me to do it this weekend?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Galant VRG and have been told that you can change / Upgrade the LCD control panel in the car from Jap to English via the GPS unit in the boot, which has the inbuilt CDROM.

Does anyone know if this is true and if so, where do I get the CD ISO from.

Many Thanks in advance

MainFrame

i have a 1995 Galant ES which I have already replaced the alternator twice. I also bought a brand new battery as well. I replaced the alternator and battery with brand new ones about 3 weeks ago and my car is dead now. Looking at the alternator it seems that the oil filter wire has come undone, which i can easily hook back up. then there is a black bracket that is hanging loose, but I'm not sure where it goes. Why would my alternator continue to lose it's power? if anyone can help it would be appreciated, also i've noticed it is idling high and it doesn't really like to shift into gear that great either. i think there may be an electrical problem....

Hi, i am new to the forums and seeking advise. I dont know if this has been answered before but i tried the search for anything like it and nothing has came up. When i accelerate it studders/chokes violently and it wont move. I have to barly put on the gas and it will slowly accelerate choking while doing it. I has gotten really bad and it is accelerating slower and slower. This problem stops at like 4rpm+ but when i floor it when it is like 1/2 of the power for a little while then speed up..... It didnt uset to do this. It also studders while idleing really bad and almost seems like its going to die. Does anyone know any leads on whats wrong? Ive replaced several things and nothing has helped.

hi peoples
i am new as well... i have owned my galant for the pass 5 months and i have been driving it pretty hard (heavy acc and long k's done over 10000km's over the pass month )
anyways~ recently driving i have realised that i am starting to lose power on the throttle the car isnt as fast as it use to be
any suggestions?
o o and what engine oil is the best for galant vrg 10w40 ??

guys

when starting car after a few minutes the idle begins to rev back and forth above 4000rpms... Need Help...

Ok so my '94 Galant has been making a ticking noise since the day i got it. I have read the post suggesting that this is the hydraulic lifters and I now have some questions that perhaps someone could help with:

1. Is there any other reason a 6A12 may make such a noise, in time with the revs?

2. What is the price of replacing the lifters? roughly... and yes I'm aware it may cost lots.

3. What is involved and how difficult is it to replace them? I have plenty of experience rebuilding engines, admittedly not mitsubishi engines but the same idea.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and i tried some lifter noise remover additive but it seems to have made the problem worse.

So I have had my Galant for about a month now and am wondering if I can use Lucas Transmission Additive in my Trans. I have used it in other vehicles and like it but as I have read in these forums, Mitsubishis are pretty specific on the fluid they use. Has anyone out there used it in their Mitsubishi and did it work good?

On my car its a 94 galant, dohc, the wiring that goes to the alternator, you have to 2 wires that go to the connector that plugs in, you have the battery cable, then you also have the wire that goes to the oil pressure sender, and theres another one, looking at my car its unhooked. I believe its a ground of some sort. but i don't know where it goes. Can anyone take a look and let me know. I put my meter on the positive batt terminal, the to that wire, and I read batt voltage. so I know its a ground, I don't know if this is the reason for my problems.

Hi guys

I noticed that my engine has strange noice, valve knocking noice

I thought it was oil, replaced it, but noice remains again, a little bit quiet.

I changed oil 10W-40. engine has 75k KM runout

can some1 tell me what can be a problem. and some1 faced that problem before ?

thanks in advance


P.S.

sorry for my english

Hello everyone. I have just bought my first Mitsubishi and it hasn't been the best car I have owned. It didn't pass emissions because of 2 codes it had stored. Of course the check engine light was burned out so I had no idea when I bought it. I managed to fix both codes and just got it to pass Emissions today. The problem I am having is the alternator wasn't charging and I had no light on the dash. I removed it and had it bench tested and it failed. I purchased a new one and installed it but I still have no charge to my battery. I remove the battery cable and it continues to run even with the headlights on. My voltage at the battery and directly form the Alternator is 12.33. Every 4-5 days my battery goes dead. I charge it and it goes good for another 4-5 days. I have been going over wiring diagrams and I see a generator relay but I cannot find it to test it. Anyone seen this trouble before? It seems to me that an alternator is pretty basic. Power in\ More Power out to the battery. Some wires go to the ECU to adjust idle at start up. Any help would be appreciated.

hi,

i am interested in locating an ecu for a mitsubishi galant 1995 4g93 engine.
it was reported faulty.

any help would be greatly appreaciated

regards

Val

Hi everyone

just wondering if someone can tell me if it is possible to convert a 6a12 tt to a single turbo and how much work is involved

Thanks

Hello all:

Once again I am in search of Help

Question 1: where can I find a used driver side fog light for my 98 Galant LS.

I called a bunch of places in NY and no one seems to have one. I called the dealer and they wants $230.00 for the unit. No sites on the Internet that I searched comeback with a positive search.

Question 2: How do I rebuilt my power antenna?

my power antenna last piece gets stuck from time to time. I put some grease or WD 40 and clean it and goes back to normal. Yesterday while cleaning it the last top piece was stuck. I pull very hard and eventuallly freed up and extended completely. No something broke inside and the metal rod goes up and down and doesn't stay up. the motor is fine, the dealer wants $58.50 for the antenna rod or $306.00 for the complete unit. Those prices are out of my league at the moment.

Thanks for your help

Figman

Maybe soneone can help me. My 95 Galant starts fine and rides great until the engine gets hot then it stalls at every light. I have to drop it in neutral or rev it to keep from stalling Any ideas?
Thanks