This ones in russian
tommy sport
The following are all in german
nippon tuning
Select mitsubishi and go to 3 and 4 page
importspeed
Standard Mitsubishi bodyparts
schubbis
For facelifted carisma(2000-)
giacuzzo

If you know of any other sites please add

I can't believe I'm asking where the plugs are on my carisma?
I have 4 orange clicks at the back near of the engine -is this them???

I checked the filter to see if the stamp in the book a month ago stands to be true and the air filter is terrible - clearly done more then 2000 miles I'd say!
The oil is clear and I hope the plugs are new!!

on edit: it's not my timing belt.

Ok, so i wanted to clean the cabinet filter..
I took away the glove compartment and now i really have no clue what to do. Any suggestion/ideas will be highly appreciated


(Check attached picture!)

It appears that I am getting around 30 miles to quarter of a tank!

I put £10.00 in @ £1.13 per litre and it doesn't seem to last long at all ??? It's a 1.8 auto and I am wondering what the mpg around town should be? I have no erratic idle or smoke or engine lights?

Any ideas.

Hi all,

Ok so today it has been a bad day and i just got to find out that the car has some problem

The issue is: I turn on the car, i dont drive but idle for a few minutes and then the rpm goes to 1500 and the check engine light turns on.

How to check the error code? I read something about grounding the Pin1 of the connector but im not quite sure! (the car is not OBD2)


Thanks in advance

Hello all
I am considering attempting converting my UK spec 2000 Carisma GDI to left hand drive. Before anyone tries to certify me, please let me explain my reasoning.
i) I live in France and bought the car at the start of the year with 180k miles on it. I bought it from a friend who had had it from new and I paid the princely sum of 800 euros for it. A GDI in similar condition but LHD would cost around 2500 euros in France!!
ii) I have one teenager who has recently obtained his provisional licence and a second who is itching to start learning to drive. I feel that it is unsafe for an inexperienced driver to be driving a car with the controls on the 'wrong' side.
iii) I think the Carisma GDI is a brilliant car (the wife loves it too ) and am loath to be parted from it. Hence my interest in a possible LHD conversion.
Has anyone else tried this conversion or done one the opposite way? As far as I can tell, the main problem would be repositioning accurately the brake servo and windscreen wiper motor on the side of the engine bay opposite from their usual position but maybe I am overlooking something...
If all the parts could be sourced from scrap vehicles I do not think the cost should be too high. I think the main components needed would be:
Dashboard
Instruments (who needs miles on the continent?)
The part of the wiring harness which lives behind the dash (don't fancy modifying an RHD one)
Steering rack
Wiper mechanism and arms
Various small bits & pieces e.g. the brake pipes at the rear of the engine bay will need rerouting.

As ever, grateful for all replies and opinions.
Over to you!

Hi,

The cambelt is due for renewal in the next thousand miles or so and I need to make sure I get everything that is needed. I've bought a cambelt kit consisting of the single belt and tensioner. Two questions...

1. Should I be changing the water pump at the same time?

2. I don't have the tools to do the work myself so roughly how many hours labour should this be taking at a garage?

Thanks in advance!

Mine has stopped working. The ceiling light and door open indicators come on so I'm sure it's the buzzer itself rather than a fuse - but where is the buzzer located?

Thanks.

[size="3"][/size][color="#000000"][/color]PLEASE... can anyone tell me how to change the dash computer on my carisma(or lack of) from KM, Litres per 100 km etc back to mpg it mysteriously changed by itself one day . I have tried pressing every button and i have now given up..... Please help me someone

Hey all,

Im new with a 1997 1.8 Auto carisma with 164k on the clock Every thing is origonal with FSH and endless receipts. It cost me £300 and has 12months mot and tax until March - Even had half a tank of fuel!!! ok the one owner did smoke and it did stink but I soon sorted that out by stripping it out and vaxing everything!!!

Here are my questions and would love endless answers.

Thanks in advance.

1: The indicators don't auto turn off - do I need to replace the entire thing or just a box ?
2: The buzzer doesn't come on when the lights are on and the door opens
3: Where can I get new matts for it - not the cheap ebay ones
4: being a 1.8 it should be pokey but it doesnt seem to pick up until around 2.5k is this normal?
5: What would be the best after market filter for it? - I've always prefered pannel filters.
6: Are there any mods that should be done instantly to improve fueling etc like the ERG valves on Vectra's?
7: What kind of milage should I see to a tank driving normally
8: I gave it a blast and the clutch really stank after - Is this normal for an auto or havve I broke it - I've never had an auto before.

Sorry for al the questions

Hi all,

Ok, im here again, and, as a tradition with Carismas i've got a problem.

After a while driving when i would go to a stop, like, if i want to park the car i notice that instead of going to idle the rpm goes up to 1500 for like 5-10 seconds and then go down to 800. i thought it wasnt a big issue..

Anyhow, a few days ago i decided to reset the ECU.
While calibrating it - after a few minutes idling the rpm goes up to 1500 and the engine light came on.

If i restart the car the lamp turns off, no problem, but the problem is still there, if i idle for a few minutes the engine light comes on again.

I grounded the pin1 and readed the error code 92 which is "Throttle valve position feedback system".

What could it be ? Thx in advance!

Hi guys. I am hoping someone can help me figure out the wiring for a Falcon Phaser keyless entry for my 2004 Carisma.

I am usually pretty good with this sort of stuff but am nearly there, just not all the way. I have found the Door Lock ECU which looks like a big regulator under and to the right of the steering column. The wires which go to the driver's door lock switch and the ECU are green (lock) and brown (unlock). So just tapping into these should be simple, or so I thought. The wiring diagram for the Falcon is not exactly clear as they don't show a schematic unlike the Cobra system which seems to be more simple.
The instructions show 4 types of examples for wiring up the kit

Mine isn't the phaser 2 but the wiring diagram for the controls is the same. So here is what I did. On the power side I took the feed from the brake pedal and fed the cables for the indicators through to the hazard warning switch for wiring in later. The 2 grey wires I coiled up as I don't want boot opening on it's own and windows are only electric on the front. The black wire went to earth. Now for the controls. I set this up as diagram C and later to diagram B.

Black to Earth
Green to Green on ECU
Pink and Orange joined together and to 12v supply
White to Earth
Blue to Brown on ECU

*****************************

NOW GOT IT SORTED THANKS TO A GUY ON THE FIAT PUNTO FORUM.

For anyone who has bought a Falcon or thinking about it here is the right way to wire up the Carisma which will also work for any car where the door locks are triggered on the negative feed.

FALCON CONTROL SIDE (6 WIRES)

BLACK - NOT USED
GREEN - BLUE ON ECU
PINK & ORANGE - SPLINE TOGETHER AND GO TO EARTH
WHITE - NOT USED
BLUE - GREEN ON ECU

This is as diagram 1 shown on the Falcon manual which is not very clear as it implies that cars with a power lock switch should be diagram B which is wrong, or it s for the Carisma. I guess that Falcon have not made it clear so that you need to ring them up at 50p per minute, quite disappointing. What confused me on their instructions is that they show pink and orange connecting to 'main line' WTF. Why don't they just say to earth and call the diagram for 'Negative Trigger'

If you buy a Cobra system and not the Falcon, fitting instructions as following link.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/20770869/MITSUBI...ss-Entry-System

Hope this makes it a lot easier for anyone else wanting to fit a Falcon Keyless entry system to their car.

hi all,
could anyone please tell me why the demister is not working,the blower works on all speeds ,but no draught on wind-screen,the car is a carisma 1.9 R reg. many thanks in advance. slogger

What engine is in my carisma. I know it's a 1.8 auto and ont he back of the car I have GLXI but what is the actual engine / code - Incase i need parts or intend to do mods

Hello all
My 2000 Carisma GDI is suffering from an ever-noisier manual gearbox. It is getting to the point that I wonder how much longer it is going to last. The noise is a rumbling which I suspect to be the shaft bearings. Has anyone else tried fixing this problem? Where can I find a repair manual which includes the gearbox?
An alternative would be to replace the gearbox with one from a scrap vehicle. Gearboxes from a Mitsi GDI seem to be hard to come by. However, the Volvo V40 / S40 uses the GDI engine so does it also share the gearbox? Otherwise I have read here
http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/mitsubish...28385/comments/
that the Carisma uses a Renault 19. This sounds a trifle unlikely to me but would be very handy as I live in France where there are always lots of Renaults in breakers yards!
Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.

Hi all,
Noticed today the GDI ECO lamp wasn't turning on even at idle.

It must be the light bulb that failed, will try to replace it asap and let you know how it goes

Cheers!

hey guys, the car in qestion is actually a 2001 space star 1.8 however the question im asking should apply to both the carisma and the space star - its a more general qs.

i was changing pads yesterday and when using the tool to wind the calliper in all the way, i snagged the boot and tore a 3mm long thin tear in it. (really small hole in relation to the whole circumference of the boot.

my question is, with a tear this small, will i inevitably get problems with the caliper? or will such a small tear not really pose a threat?

cheers

Hi I'm a newbie here and hope someone can answer a few questions.

1 I recently bought an ELM327 bluetooth scanner to use with an app called "torque" on my android phone. I can ONLY get the engine RPM as "live" info. I thought it was because the app/phone was the reason so tried a full blown (and expensive) windows program on a laptop, same result. I then connected the scanner to a friends car (Suzuki Vitara diesel) this gave LOADS more live info on the phone but not ALL. My Carisma is a 2003 model and the Suzuki is a 2002. Is the problem simply that my car is too old to be fully OBD compliant? I think European diesels had to comply from 2004

Heres a link that shows both the app working on a phone together with the same scanner module. The phone seems able to read and turn off PID codes OK its just the live data I can't get.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCZyxrS_ixY

2 Does anyone have/know of or tried a modified ECU map? I've also bought an ECU flasher I'd like to try out. It works with the Carisma and I've already saved the standard map from the cars ECU. i'd be happy to share this device if your also interested in trying a remap once I get hold of, or clone, a file.

3 What diagnostic software works well with this car?

Thanks in advance, Pete

Just a quick word of advice based on my out of pocket experience:

If you have a yellow light on and the car is using 20% more fuel AND is over 40k miles OR you haven't had a new oxygen sensor for 40k miles then the probable cause is the sensor as they only last 40k miles approx, once the sensor dies the cars brain runs of default settings - hence the 20% more fuel use.

DON'T pay you local Mitsubishi dealer to read the fault with his machine - he will charge you about £45 plus vat PER GO - a fault fix may need several go's

DO Buy a OBDC reader from ebay for about £35 - Mine is a CAR CARE u480 CAN OBD2 AUTOSCANNER car diagnostic tool - this box will also allow you to turn off the yellow light
(which will re illuminate again if the fault remains) it has a error code book that will take you to the faulty part

Also you can reset the yellow light by resetting the whole electronic ignition unit by simply removing the red + battery lead for 10 seconds. (again expect the light to illuminate again after a few minutes ... each time ... that is until the actual fault is resolved)

ALSO Mitsubishi wanted £130 for a new Lambda oxygen sensor - I found one available from the NGK replacement oxygen sensor catalogue HOWEVER the correct one for ENGINE 4G92 was incorrectly listed against the 1.8 engine anyway buy this part - its about £48 to £78 once you have found a supplier for NGK Oxygen sensors
don't fit a generic one as i did they DO NOT WORK , they all have specific amperages and heat tolerances - you cant just use anything THIS IS THE CORRECT PART

NGK Oxygen Sensor Part No NGK 0ZA448-E53 Stock No 0448 Book Ref 460000448010

well looks like that might save someone about £150 on their dealer bill.

Oh finally the sensor is on the outlet manifold, it looks like a spark plug, you can buy an open sided socket from ebay to fit these with to protect the wiring.
it takes 10 mins
> disconnect its connector block > wrench out the old one >
wrench in the new sensor > reconnect the connector block > DONE
fitting is the same as with plugs - wait until threads are just about biting then wap it in 1/4 of a turn - no more.

SHARE THE KNOWLEDGE !!! SAVE A FORTUNE

Spotted some bad caps in the ECU. So I ordered some new ones. Feel free to comment

Mitsubishi Carisma 1997 Glxi 1.6L 4G92 motor.

5 capacitors in total

100µf 16V elektrolytic
22µf 50V elektrolytic
3 x 47µf 50V elektrolytic

The ECU is located on the passenger side, right side below the glove-dept. Remove the thin plastic cover benieth and the two 10mm bolts holding it in place.

here it is :

Hi all, any ideas to replace my sat nav disc without spending the £120 at main dealer? Thanks.

I am the happy owner of a Mitsubishi Carisma 1.8 GDI LX from 1999.

During my ownership I have been acquainted with the GDI engine, and it's few, but fatal flaws.

I was able to get my engine running smooth, with high mileage, and no ticking/tappets from the valves.

When I first got my car, it was running odd. Pretty stable idle, but many judders, shakes, and just NOT smooth. The mileage was poor, and it didn't pass emission test.

The cause of these problems I wound, was carbon deposits in the inlet, and on the valves. My first view down the throttlebody:


I've read my valves looked quite like this (called an elephantfoot):


I have gone through the procedure of cleaning the crap off the inlet and valves, and got interested in why It was even there in the first place.

I can explain the cleaning process if anyone likes, but for now, I'll explain what is the cause of the problem, and how to correct the design flaw.

There are two systems on the engine, that are the combined cause:
PCV System:
On the inlet manifold, there are connected two pipes from the valve covers. It dumps blowby pressure, to the inlet... if it weren't there, the pressure would build up in the valvecover,
and oil system, and push out oil of all the seals. It's on all cars. The problem with that, is that it leaves oil fumes through the pipes, which seat in the inlet like a tiny film of stickyness.

EGR System:
To decrease NOx emissions, a small amount of exhaust gas is recirculated through the inlet. That keeps the burn temperature and NOx emissions down. The problem with that, is,
that small unburned particles enter the inlet through this system, and it really like to settle in the oil film the PCV system is responsible for.

In short, the PCV system deposits oil to the inlet and EGR deposits carbon in that oil. Oil, carbon, oil, carbon, oil, carbon.... through the years, that's allot of gunk.

It's actually a problem on most cars... the problem was just solved by accident. In normal MPI car's the injectors are seated in the inletmanifold,
spraying it with disolving/cleaning gasoline... keeping it neat and clean longer, and because the injectors in a GDI is seated directly in the combustion chamber,
it doesn't clean the valves and inlet.

Solution:
Get the gunk cleaned out.
Put universal gasolinefilters on the pipes on the PCV system. There are two. I can provide images... That'll catch the oil.. and then the EGR cant deposit crap.
On the -1999 cars... not the facelifted ones, you can remove the seal from the EGR valve, and put in one that pugs the hole completely... the computer won't find out...
it's a different case with the facelifted version though. And it'll pollute more, so I would suggest the first solution.

hi all
i have a mitsubishi carisma 97 and having problem with the rev... everytime i start engine when it's cold it does not stay on idle and it will stall i have to hold my foot on accelerator pedal util it warms up and it would be ok.. i have been reading forums and tried replacing sparks, coil pack, air flow meter and throttle body but still the same... any solution everyone would be much appreciated thanks...

I've just bought an R Reg Carisma with 163,000 on the clock. 1.8 GDI.

It is powerful and economical. Around 39mpg around town and 45 on a 200 mile Motorway cruise at 60 / 70.

Occasionally, normally at low revs around town, there is a light misfire. Can anyone suggest where I might start looking?

Thanks

Mike

I have a problem with my 1.8 GDI, I have had it in a garage and they say they cant find anything wrong with it, the problem is when im driving, it will start to accelerate on its own,not a massive power surge but a noticable one.

some1 has suggested to me that it could be the MAF sensor,but the management light has not come on to say there's a problem,the other day i did take the MAF sensor out and i cleaned it, for about 5 hours it seemed fine, no power surges, then it started again.

I cleaned it again today and nothing changed its still surging, the only thing that was done to the car b4 this started was the pre cat oxy sensor was changed,the oxy sensor i got was slightly different from the 1 taken off,1 taken off had like mesh on the tip, new 1 didnt(it was smooth).

Plus the cable was half the size,but the plug was the same, the post oxy plug is different so i didn't get the back 1 by accident. i would be appreciative to any 1 who knows this problem and can shed some light b4 i very reluctantly take it to a dealership which i don't want to as they will charge more than the cars worth thanks

I recently picked up an old Carisma rear door to replace one of mine which is rusting away at the bottom fold.

The one I've bought has manual window whereas mine has electric. How easy is it to convert? Can I just strip the parts from my door and bolt them straight into the replacement door?

Also it will need to be resprayed - any ideas what this will cost?

And actually fitting the door to the car - is this straightforward?

I have a 2002 1.8 GDI radiator that i bought off ebay for 45 quid a few weeks ago, It hasnt been put on my car as once again my great mechanic i know told me i needed it when in fact it was the air con rad that was knackered on my car,so i am selling it for 40 pound with free delivery if any1 is interested,

my email is savage.jf@gmail.com

has enyone fitted a gas kit to the 1.8 gdi car and what's you opinions? which kit is the best?

hi am a newbie here. i've just got myself a 1999 carisma gl a couple of months ago and yesterday i got the cambelt and oil changed. now i have this tapping noise from the engine, the bloke at the garage said give it a couple of days and see how it goes. what do you guys think it could be. could it be a tappet?

any help would be good.

Really stuck with my Carisma front bumper. In this case a picture tells a thousand words so please just look below. I have removed every screw except for the ones in red that dont seem to exsist but still seem to magically hold it in place. My car is a 2003 carisma 1.6 16v and im looking to mount a brand new bumper. Also picture below... Something tells me that if you have taken the bumper off before you'll have the exact advise for me..

[attachment=13221:noscrews.jpg]
[attachment=13222:DSC00002.JPG]

Hi all,

Was just wondering if your carisma is also a bit lame when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear...
Just got curious to see if it´s normal, a common problem or if something weared out..

Thanks in advance

Cheers!

Does anyone know of any I-4 or V-6 engines that were both MIVEC & GDI. I keep hearing rumors and insinuation but not facts. I'd like to find one and turbo it.

I have a Mitsubishi Carisma 1.8 GDI LX, from 1998. Done 153k miles / 245k km.

I had some problems with fuel economy, power output, and an engine that seemed very unrefined. I found out the Inlet manifold was severly clogged. I disassembled, and cleaned out the entire inlet manifold, throttle body, and also the valves. Big work, and took a whole lot of hours... and it took me 3 days to get my fingers clean again.. anyway, I thought that would help...

Sure enough, the first 15 km it went like a rocket. Engine sounded mild but strong. Very refined, and a completely different engine... but then it was at its normal temperature, and it started acting up.

During low RPM acceleration it judders and misfires, depending on how hard I press down the pedal.

When the RPM rise I can press the pedal down more and more, without it misfiring. When it's at 5.000 RPM It can take just about full throttle.
If it's at 2000 RPM, and push the pedal 60% down, it'll 3 cylinder... then when the RPM rises it will start kicking more... until It crosses a point, and I'll get a big kick, and it'll just pull steady up to the red line.

What could be the cause of this?

I have done this:
Changed Spark plugs
Cleaned out EGR valve (tough job getting that one out)
Replaced throttle body seal
Checked all of the vacuum hoses
Changed lambda sensor
Shouted at it (didn't help)


There are no fault codes in the PCM/ECU
I am at a loss, and really need some help with this.

Otherwise, it's an amazing forum you people have here. I have read for days now, and found the solution for problems I had to find out myself.. a bit sorry I didn't find these forums a bit before. Would have spared me allot of trouble.

Hi Folks,

I've an X-reg (2001) 1.8GDI with a couple of problems.

First, the steering wheel squeaks when turned. This is especially noticeable when manoeuvring and is sort of a Vinyl to Vinyl-type sound. It isn't loud and there's no roughness but it is a bit irritating. Any ideas, preferably for a quick fix.

Second, the handbrake lever comes up a long way. The car just passed an MOT and the handbrake works fine but the travel seems excessive. Is it an easy adjustment?

Thanks,

Dave

Hi,

I haven't posted for a long time, it's nice to be back. I have a '98 1.8 Carisma GLX GDI. A diagnostic check recently returned a fault code indicating the crank position sensor. The car isn't a keeper and I'm on a tight budget so I'm not inclined to fit a factory replacement. I'm opting for a used one. It seems that the facelifted GDIs had a different sensor without a cable attached, so those aren't right. GDI Pajero Pinin/iOs also seem to have that one. I know that a Volvo S/V40 GDI part is the same as mine, which gives me another option. What I'd like to know is if the sensor is actually unique to the GDI engine or if pre-GDI Carisma 1.8 and even 1.6 engines use a sensor that will interchange.

Does anyone have experience here? Thanks for any help you can give.

hi , could any1 please tell me where the fuel shut of switch inertia switch is on a carisma 1.6glx 99 , thc shane

I have a Mitibushi Carisma DI-D 2003 elegance and i need to replace my drivers side electric window switch and was wondering if anyone could share some words of wisdom and advice on the best way to do it. My instinct tells me that i will need to remove the inside panel of the door to get at the switch and wondered if anyone could share some advice on the easiest way of removing the panel or if there is any other way to get to the swtich.

thanks in advance

Matt

I've been trying to figure out what's required in order to lower your car 30-40mm. My car is already lowered about 40mm (was done by Mitsubishi the day it was bought). Since it has now driven 200,000 km, the suspension has begun to degrade a lot. I therefore want to change both shocks and springs but can I just buy standard shocks and mount some 35mm lowering springs from H&R, Eibach, ... or do I need special shocks when lowering the car?

By the way, I did consider a kit where you can adjust the height but I've only found a kit from KW (KW Variant 1) which has quite a high price compared to what I'm willing to spend (about twice as much as new shocks + lowering springs).

I hope someone can help me out. Thanks in advance.

Hi, i have a 1.8 gdi carisma, just bought it, the air con isnt working, clutch not engaging on comrpessor wire broken, no power feed. so i have wired a direct feed from the battery to the compressor,(will disengage when not in use) i stil have no air con despite system being charged!

any ideas?
thanks

i just bought a 1.8gdi carisma equippe the air con is not working, the system is charged and ok, the clutch on the compressor is not engaging, any ideas ? i can get a new compressor but they are costly thought might be electrical (fuse ok) thanks please help its boiling here!!

HI there. My problem is my charisma 1.9 did runs smooth when I drive it around town or on short journeys but when I go on a long journey after about 1 hour (between 40-50 miles) it suddenly loses power and the engine management light comes on, I can still drive along but only about 30mph maximum and if I have to go up a hill it will only just crawl uphill, If I rev the accelerator there just isn't any revs there, it will tick over ok if I stop. I have called out the AA twice and both times they plugged their computer into my car and it showed no faults. The problem just clears itself sometimes after about half an hour sometimes about 2 hours. The person I bought the car off told me it done this when he had it and he put it into a mitsubishi garage twice and they couldn't find anything wrong. I would be gratefull for any suggestions.

Noobie saying hello, I've just bought an 02 gdi, it's quite rattly at idle which I guess is the hydraulic tappets, is there any quick fix for this or is the only solution to fit new ones? If so how hard of a job is this or should I get a dealer to do it?

Apart from the above that's all that's wrong - is there any other common things I should keep an eye out for?

Thats the questions out of the way, my name's Dave & I live in Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK

Hi there, Just wondering what sort of mileage people have up on their Carismas?
I have 118000 and she is still smooth and reliable. What is the highest around and how many can I expect to get out of a well looked after and serviced car?

Hi Guys
I have just removed my CD changer from my other car. It is a Kenwood 10 CD changer and it looks suspiciously like (I'd say identical) the CD changers that are advertised on Ebay for the Mitsubishi.
The connecting lead between the head unit and the changer has the same plug as the back of the mitsubishi head unit. Having tried the plug in the Mitsi head unit, the CD does not respond in any way at all. (the Kenwood head unit works fine with it)

Couple of questions would be.........does anyone know what the pin configuration would be for the mitsubishi head unit? Also are the CD buttons on the head unit actually connected or do they have to be 'enabled' in some way (at the dealers perhaps)? Do Kenwood make the Mitsubishi branded audio equipment?

Here's hoping

Gedeye

Hi all,

Some time ago, I started a thread about the problems with my '00 Carisma 1.8GDI, which began about January 2010

Well, after more than 1000km of test without any problem , I can say finally that IT IS FIXED !!!

Problem was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which was a bit noisy and was misscalibrated. I replaced it with a new part.

As problems began when I fixed the poor idle by cleaning the throttle body, my explanation is that, even if I didn't move the TPS, someone had incorrectly calibrated it with the carbon build-up which prevented idle to be fine. So, when I removed the sooth and throttle valve was able to really close, TPS was misscalibrated. But it was just a tiny bit so engine error was not consistent and, sometimes, it could work for days

All in all, I have learned a lot and now the GDI engine has almost no secrets for me. So I am happy with the experience

Best regards,

JOSE

hi not very good with cars so please be patient....have a 1.6 carisma which has not bein started in bout 3 months , just tryed to jump start it the other day but it wont turnover , any ideas what could be the problem? , could my start plugs need changing?

Hi all, sorry if this question has been asked already... but where can I get a CHEAP idle control valve for a mitsubishi carisma 1.6GLXI? And also is this part universal? If it is... what other cars share this part? (so I can narrow my search down). As it is at the moment... the cheapest(and pretty much only place) I can find this part is on ebay for £125.......... I'm not paying that for it, it's not worth that much

So where would you advise I go to get this part?

Ps. I live in the uk, and would prefer it if I can get the part from the uk... although if absolutely necessary, will order it from abroad.

Thanks in advance!!