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Announcement: The Offical 2nd Hooters Meet. |
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EMC 3000gt |
9449 |
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Last post by: EMC 3000gt
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Benckj |
1,549 |
11th July 2010 - 11:43 AM Last post by: fuddster |
Hi all,
Recently, we have had a thread going on replacement of O2 sensors. This is a hot topic during these times of increased fuel prices and understanding complicated engine management systems. The O2 sensor is an essential part of the engine control and can fail without having any fault codes come to our attention.
It will become increasinlly important that we know how to test & diagnois a faulty sensor and then replace with the correct part. This may sound easy but as this attached thread points out there are different types of sensors now available and the parts code listed can be wrong. It was also discovered that certain after market brands perform better than others so this is another trap for those uninformed. Going OEM is not always the best option as it can cost over $1200US to replace sensors which may still be functioning.,
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t38645-an...gen-sensors.htmI know that this attached thread link is long and difficult to follow. It is my intension in pinning this new thread to develop a good comphrensive place to document test methods, available replacements and problems we have encountered with the sensors. If you have some information which would be of use to all of us in this thread please post it up.
I will attach a link below that describes how sensors work and basic test procedures for a start. Do note that this article is a little out-dated and technology has advanced. Just one of the recent pitfalls I discovered.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?p...G/o2sensor.htmlJim
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Ice-Man |
2,347 |
9th April 2010 - 03:37 AM Last post by: chain rattle |
hi just found this link so could you make this a sticky please all download in pdf format this should help you all out all models coverd listed below
Visit manuals heremontero_fsm_1983 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)
montero_fsm_1984 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)
montero_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
montero_fsm_1987 (Electrical)
montero_fsm_1989 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
montero_fsm_1989 (Electrical)
montero_fsm_1992 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
montero_fsm_1992 (Electrical)
montero_fsm_1992-1995 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
montero_fsm_1992-1995 (Electrical)
montero_fsm_1996 (Engine, Chassis & Body) [Includes Engine and Transmission Overhaul]
montero_fsm_1996 (Electrical)
montero_fsm_1998 (Engine, Trans, Fuel, etc.)
montero_fsm_1998 (Body, Axles, Electrical, etc.)
montero_fsm_2003 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)
montero_fsm_2006 (Engine, Chassis & Body, and Electrical)
montero_tsb_to 1996
monterosport_fsm_1999-2002 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
mitsubishi_fsm_engine_6g72 (Various versions from various vehicles)
mitsubishi_fsm_engines_1990-2002 (Seems to be all of them)
mitsubishi_fsm_servicebulletins-au_2003 (Australian TSBs)
mitsubishi_fsm_transmissions_1990-2001 (Seems to be all of them)
mitsubishi-au_tsb_to 2003 (From Australia)
raider_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
raider_fsm_1987 (Electrical)
raider_fsm_1987_Raider_fbcdriveability (FBC Driveability and Troubleshooting) [FBC=FeedBack Carb]
raider_fsm_1988 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
raider_fsm_1988 (Electrical)
raider_fsm_1989_powertraindiagnostics-30l (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures) [Includes: No-start and Driveability]
colt_arrow_racing (Performance tips for 2.6L NA motor)
pajero_fsm_printed-1998_all
pajero_fsm_nm_full_2001
pajero_fsm_np_full_2002
pajero_fsm_np_suppmanual_2003-2005
pajero_fsm_printed-1990_engine_4D56-25-diesel
pajero_fsm_printed-1995_engine_4M40-28-diesel
pajero_fsm_printed-2000_engine_4M41-32-diesel
pajero-sport_fsm_full_1999-2001
starion_fsm_1987 (Engine, Body & Chassis)
starion_fsm_1988 (Electrical)
starion_tsb
conquest_fsm_1987 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
conquest_fsm_1988 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
conquest_fsm_1988 (Electrical)
3000gt_fsm_1991 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
3000gt_fsm_1991 (Electrical)
3000gt_fsm_1992-1996 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
3000gt_fsm_1992-1996 (Electrical)
3000gt_tim_1993 (Technical Information Manual)
3000gt_fsm_1995 spyder (Spyder Supplement)
stealth_fsm_1991 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
stealth_fsm_1994 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
stealth_fsm_1994 (Electrical)
eclipse_fsm_1990-1998 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
eclipse_fsm_1990-1998 (Electrical)
talon/laser_fsm_1990 (Engine, Chassis & Body)
ASA / CAPS Parts Programs
mmc-asa_usa.exe (Replaces CAPS) [Be sure to read the dialog boxes for install info]
wincaps-setup.exe (US v3.41)
caps_usa_341.zip
caps_jpn_350.zip
caps_eur_341.zip
caps_gen_341.zip
Other Manuals
haynes_montero_raider_mightymax_1983-1993
clymer_ranger_bronco_1983-1987 [Has 2.3 diesel info]
arb_installation_guide_rd110 [V6 large front diff]
Parts Catalogs
raider_partscatalog_1989
conquest_partscatalog_1987-1988
Other Catalogs
3msealants_catalog.pdf
acl_pistonproducts_pp03.pdf
acl_pistonproducts_pp99.pdf
arp_catalog_bulkfasteners_.pdf
arp_catalog_cylinderheadstuds.pdf
arp_catalog_info.pdf
arp_catalog_rodbolts.pdf
au-ve-co_catalog.pdf (2005 Edition)
clevite_catalog.pdf
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ukmpvman |
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4th February 2010 - 03:16 PM Last post by: chain rattle |
Use the link to up date the hard drive on the cggb on the Fosgate Music System
I HAVE DONE IT TWICE NOW ITS VERY EASY TO DO!!
11th January 2010
The Gracenote Data base has been updated to May 2009 the link remains the same and its still very easy to down load and install into the MMCS system.
Try this Link
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/download/...wn_mmcs_01.html
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Benckj |
14,410 |
25th December 2009 - 02:32 PM Last post by: Mr Bitchy |
One of the three most asked questions on this forums relates to the 4WD operation and what the flashing dash lights mean. I have pinned this topic and attached a link which describes the system quite well (including pics).
If you are having trouble with your system or just want to know what is the correct operation is vs incorrect have a look at this before searching or starting a new thread.
http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view.run?articleID=318776Jim
PS: The top questions are;
1/ I want to find a service manual for my vehicle?
2/ I need a radio code for my vehicle
3/ What do the flashing 4wd lights mean?
If you could help with the first two I will sicky them to the top. Our Russian link seems to have gone AWAL.
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gevo |
61,063 |
15th September 2008 - 03:17 AM Last post by: farq2m8 |
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mr_mkii |
25,473 |
30th January 2007 - 08:00 PM Last post by: vsyucla |
Ok, 1-888-MITSU2005 ..that is the number to mits of north america...they are about ten mles away from me..I recently called to get my radio code because my battery had to be replaced...I just asked to speak to someone that could help me with my caode..The lady on the other line never transferred me just asked me for my vin and serial number from radio..two mins later radio code.....it's that simple...just be nice and say your battery died.....i hope this stops the same question I hear everyday.......
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incadave |
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Yesterday, 03:37 PM Last post by: incadave |
53 Plate Shogun 4 work 3.2 DI-D has started smoking grey.Perfect on tick over with no smoke at all & starts a treat but once you try to accelerate it misfires & chucks out loads of grey smoke & its not oil smoke.Has to be a fuel issue but why would it be perfect on tick over?
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incadave |
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6th September 2010 - 10:49 AM Last post by: incadave |
Can anyone tell me what is involved in removing the injectors on a 53 plate Shogun 3.2 DI-D & the book time is showing 4hrs for remove & install so not an easy job i wouldn't of thought.
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gcltd |
7 |
2nd September 2010 - 03:00 PM Last post by: gcltd |
Hi, hope someone can help.
Our 2001 Pinin Petrol pops when the engine is turned off.
If we start it then turn the engine off there is pop/thump coming from the air duct/air filter housing and not the exhaust.
When I popped to my friends garage to let him listen, it seemed then that it stopped this noise when I left the revs to lower before switching it off, but this is not always the case.
Has anyone experienced this or can someone recommend a fix?
Any help appreciated.
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montero1 |
3,325 |
2nd September 2010 - 01:16 PM Last post by: c2camfan |
hi, I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem and could give me some advice on how to fix it. my temp gauge in my 2001 Montero Limited is reading hot. When I first start it up it reads cool then within seconds it goes to the mid point temp range and then to above hot after only driving it for max of 4 minutes. I pulled over and let it sit for a minute and checked under the hood, the engine was cool there was no girgling sounds coming from the radiator the coolant levels were fine. I've checked for leaks and there doesn't appear to be a leak anywhere.
any advice anyone can give me would be appreciated.
thank you!
montero1
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AKpro |
2,211 |
31st August 2010 - 05:08 PM Last post by: endot800 |
Hi everybody! im having 2000 pajero io Auto Transmission and i used 4wd in sand but when i wanted to return it to normal mode (2hl) i couldnt move the 4wd gear back and its locked! in the in dicator also 4 green wheels are on. i had used the super select 4wd system so many times before but never i had such this problem. can any body help me with it?
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tjmann0 |
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30th August 2010 - 02:11 AM Last post by: tjmann0 |
Having bought my v6 shogun to tow my caravan I am a little disappointed with its towing capabilities ie power it struggled through france and would constantly be changing down through the auto box to try and maintain any kind of speed at all ,My caravan is only a small 4 berth and I thought it would have breezed it ,Is this normal ?
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laurr |
31 |
26th August 2010 - 10:16 PM Last post by: bumpn |
And pls do NOT advice me to read the manual because can't find nothing there.That manuals are for women. The car is from 2001 and the engine has 130 000 km and I used 5W40 from Valvoline. But I want to know if possible to use a 10W oil because I have a sound at an hydraulic valve. Maybe with a dense oil it will disappear...what do you think ?Thank's
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foxview |
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21st August 2010 - 11:36 AM Last post by: foxview |
ok where do i start, we bought this truck about 3weeks ago and are now experiencing alot of problems please please help, firstly we noticed it was hard to start whether hot or cold so replaced the glow plugs, improved slightly but then it would try to start but something stopping it and would billow out with smoke when eventually started, took to see a diesel professional to have pressure tested all fine said poss injectors so they checked those and they were worn so we bout some new ones my other half replaced and now its been worse than ever still struggles to start sometimes cuts straight out after started, sounds like its missing bad to extent sounds like it gonna die, and lately we have had a light keep coming on according to manuel only meant to be on petrol cars something to do with emmissions??? really dispairing with this now any advise greatly recieved!!!
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jaima |
35 |
21st August 2010 - 10:43 AM Last post by: tonton |
Hi guys,
I have the shogun elegance 3.0 auto (2002) i went to start her today and got only got clicking from the solenoid, interior lights where very dim but i tested the battery and it`s reading 12.07a on the multimeter, a few times when i have been driving the shogun (locally) it has died on me for no apparent reason and i have got my mate to come and give it a jump start and it fires up again no problem.
it did happen about 4 days ago too and i charged the battery but it still would not start without a jump
As the battery is reading 12.7 i am in two minds as to whether it is battery or not ? is there anything that could be shorting and taking/draining the power that the starter is not getting enough power to turn over ?
Any ideas are more than welcome as i am at a loss here?
Cheers
Jaima
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redturboeclipse |
46 |
19th August 2010 - 02:06 AM Last post by: redturboeclipse |
Alright yall, as always no one does anything for our cars. No one posts new findings, test new products, etc. So hope I can add to that in addition to my other posts (see threads started by me)
At least here in the USA, the 3rd gen Montero (Pajero) NOT SPORT did not come with cross bars on the roof rack. These cross bars are necessary to attach bike racks, snowboard ski racks, cargo boxes, etc. You CAN buy it as an official Mitsubishi accessory, but from what I've seen it is an unbranded yakima/thule.
The official Mitsu accessory is not only hard to locate, but cost $150-200. Same goes with Thule or Yakima. The latter perhaps even more expensive. I was on the verge of purchasing either, but as always I check EBAY to see alternative options.
intrigued is the name of the seller on EBAY. Here is his link:
http://myworld.ebay.com/intrigued If you browse his profile you can see he sells a lot of these crossbars.
So here they are..
The packaging was outstanding as you can see above. It was shipped out right away and get it in a timely manner.
As you can see printed instructions are included. They were illustrated and clear. Although not as good as the more expensive ones where you can get a digital copy in PDF, if you can't understand how simple it is to install this, then you shouldn't be working on a vehicle at all.
And YES, LOCKS AND 2 KEYS ARE INCLUDED for all of the corner links for theft security. Thule and Yakima are OPTIONAL--meaning you would have to pay more.
Now lets look at the corner ends more closely.
Here it is with the cover on. You see the keylock and key there just to show you it is there. It easily slides off which exposes the adjustment screws that you work with once mounting or moving it around on your roof bars. Here it is with the cover off:
Extended screws ARE INCLUDED, Why? Because these racks are not specific for our Montero, it can go on other vehicles, in which they need more clearance to wrap around the bar.
I can tell you that our Montero / Pajero DOES NOT need to use these extended screws. It is a tight fit at first when you try to wrap it around the roof bar, but once you get it you will see it is just properly snug with some slack. I can show pictures later. You can use them if you are not able to work with it, but I'm telling you it is not necessary.
Here are some more pictures:
It is IMPORTANT to note the above picture. The portion that wraps around the roof bar is RUBBERIZED so no fear on scratching it up once mounted.
So here they are installed:

I paid $68 SHIPPED for these. Brand new. From what I read, the bars are the same diameter as the Thule bars, so all Thule accessories will be compatible.
Everything is very sturdy. It was very easy to install. I put the bars about 35" apart. I started the front right after the sunroof. As you can see in the installed pictures, you simply slide back the end cover and you use the key to lock it in place.
So any complaints? My only complaint is the locking mechanism. The lock itself is sturdy, but there really isn't much keeping the cover on. It's not much, but it does the job. Another forum has better illustration and I will add it as reference later. The true test is this winter when I take it to the snowy elements for some snowboarding, once my snowboard rack comes in. Will keep you posted. But I highly recommend it if you don't want to pay double/triple the price.
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Sebastian_2010 |
66 |
16th August 2010 - 01:17 AM Last post by: Sebastian_2010 |
Hey,
I found the following about how to check your key-signal- receiver but have one question, please read first:
"If the receiver is the problem and not the keychain fob portion of the remote entry system, you can either test the receiver by grounding the receiver wire in your car (location of the receiver wire varies depending on the make and model of your vehicle). If you ground the wire and the locks do not cycle, then the problem is your receiver, not your remotes."
?? What wire, where do i find it and what do I do- grounding the wire means to connect that wire to any blank metal part of the car or a "minus" or do I have to put 12V+ (hot) on it, please, any help highly appreciated.
Best Sebastian

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Sebastian_2010 |
69 |
11th August 2010 - 10:28 PM Last post by: SRSONE |
Hey guys,
does Kragen part no 3771 fits for the O-rings at the rear side of the engine, for the eye shaped cam-covers with the two 12mm bolts?
Any other advice where to purchase them best? THANKS for any answer.
Also, although mentioned, this would have been discussed a lot - I did use the search optin but could not find a good answer for that.
The reason, i am posting is, the guy at Kragen was not sure, if this was the right part and I don't want to open the rear covers w/o having the right part to put it back in....
Have a good weekend guys,
Sebastian
Montero Sport 3.0, 1998
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Sebastian_2010 |
54 |
10th August 2010 - 09:23 PM Last post by: Sebastian_2010 |
Hello all,
for my 98 Montero Sport 3.0 I purchased an aftermarket keyless remote from KeylessRide.
Problem:
- it won't program properly
What I did:
- open driver's door
- ignition in "ON"
- within 5 seconds, press valet/override button, get the locks to cycle 3 times (lock-open-lock), lights flash
- I pressed the "lock" button on the transmitter, I tried doing it once and doing it continuously.
Manufacturer says in Manual:"the system will respond by cycling the door locks and the siren (if equipped) one time to indicate the transmitter has been learned. (...) Programming is now complete...may release valet button and turn off ignition to exit programming mode.(...) close drivers door and test transmitter for function."
problem: by then, the locks won"t cycle once to confirm the learned programming. Of course (needless to say), after switch ignition off, closing the door, the remote won't work
Question:
-What did I do wrong? The previous owner told me, he disabled the alarm by pulling a fuse ( where?) Can it have to do with that, that it is not working?
Any Ideas and responses highly appreciated, thanks!
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darrenje |
67 |
10th August 2010 - 03:37 AM Last post by: lag950 |
Hi, I'm well and truly stuck.
I have a 1.8 GDI and have a blow in the downpipe to the cat, I am trying to find a supplier for this part, but so far I am having no luck whatsoever, I can't see the point of getting a whole new system just for about 18" of pipe.
I could just take off the heat shields and try and patch it, but would much prefer to get a new piece of pipe in, any ideas where I may be able to procure one in a hurry

I can supply pics of the part to explain it more.
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endot800 |
23 |
9th August 2010 - 11:46 AM Last post by: endot800 |
Hello,
While I was on vacation. My 01 LTD Montero started making a loud noise up front. The car has 50k miles. This happened as I was driving up & down from 2k-6k elevations. It was hot and the noise appeared only driving up the mountain, not going back down. When I slowed to pull over it was like another sound kicked in right before I came to a complete stop, like the car was looking for a gear then it kinda felt like it engaged then the car jumped a little. I took it to the dealer in the area, and they could not find nothing out of line. The noise sounds like a clanky metal fan. The dealer said that what I might be hearing is the fan clutch enagaging and since it was hot and the car was going up & down the mountain roads, it was trying to cool the engine gearing? I took it back up the road again & sure enough the noise reappeared, but not going down the road. As I slowed, the car sound was that of the gears not locked and as soon as it did lock then there was a slight jump right before stopping. I'm lost as to what I should do. Should I replace the fan clutch & does it make a loud clanky noise when it does engage? I need help! Also to top it off, on the way home my engine light came on and the temp gauge went beyond the H. I changed both temp sensors on top of the engine and it still states Hot. I used a thermal gun to check the eng temp and it was no where near hot as the gauge was showing. Is there another sensor I might have missing or do I have to replace the white module board in the inst cluster.
All help will be greatly appreciated.
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incadave |
42 |
8th August 2010 - 08:03 PM Last post by: tonton |
Any ideas as to why my 53 plate 4 work Shogun should be stuck in 4wd & i have tried all ways to get it out but as its all electrical it must be a switch or something like that?.
I did have it bellied on the g/box guard & after this happened is when the problem occurred, it did come out once after reversing for a long period but it won't come out again & a pig to drive on tarmac.
Any help is very much appreciated.
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ovalbee |
53 |
7th August 2010 - 06:43 PM Last post by: Sebastian_2010 |
Hello
My son in law purchased a 1999 Pajero in Tanzania. The battery in the key fob died and he replaced it. Now it does not work at all. Is there a re program he must do or whatever process to re activate it?
Thanks
Barry Hendrickson
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willsp2009 |
27 |
7th August 2010 - 10:54 AM Last post by: willsp2009 |
hi all i bought my 2002 lwb shogun 3.2 did a few weeks ago now when i collected the heater blowers worked and gradually the heater blowers have only worked now and then and the last few days have not worked on any setting? i can change the position from windscreen, legs, face etc as if you drive quickly and have air from outside you can feel it from each position and also can feel the change from hot and cold but no blowers on any setting now i dont know where to start and any help would be great thanks
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iownashogan |
15 |
4th August 2010 - 03:00 PM Last post by: iownashogan |
Hi guys,
My indicators/hazards have stopped working. I think it's a relay issue but I'm not sure where to find it, can somone please point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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vendingservices |
58 |
3rd August 2010 - 08:42 AM Last post by: tonton |
hi guys, its nice to become a member.
I have a 1998 automatic pajero io automatic.
The problem is a grinding sound that seems to come from the front left wheel when i sort of hit 100kph.
This noise quietens down when i exceed 130kph or thereabouts and is there but not so noisy when I am doing lower speeds.
Would any of you guys know how to fix this?
I have noticed that the gearbox mounting is a bit worn but not broken completely.
please help.
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vendingservices |
23 |
2nd August 2010 - 03:50 AM Last post by: vendingservices |
hi guys,
I have had a recurring problem on the horn in the io. It sometimes jams and gets stuck and even when i come back the next day and start the car the horn is depressed and keeps blowing.
Would anyone be able to tell me how to open up the steering wheel assembly to get to the horn switch as I am pretty sure the switch is stuck.A mechanic had previously opened the assembly and cleaned the switch and it was fine.
I am afraid of opening it wrongly and messing up the airbag.
I tried interchanging the relay in the fuse box with another of the same number but that did not solve the problem so its definitely coming form the steering wheel side.
I have just moved to an area where it gets really hot and I think that aggravated the problem once again.
thanks and have a good day.
regards
Vishal
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strider48 |
19,961 |
2nd August 2010 - 02:18 AM Last post by: shanegar1 |
I've got a 2001 Shogun Pinin Elegance 2.0 litre petrol 5 door
Does anyone know where I can download a workshop manual for this model?
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scooch |
35 |
1st August 2010 - 05:39 PM Last post by: scooch |
hi there, i've got a 02reg shogun 3.2 equippe DID swb. it has developed an idle problem where when the engine is cold it idles from 1000 - 1500 rpm + then when warm it does not idle at all since the revs drop so low it cuts out. it is also a bit slow to start but other than this it runs perfectly. the fuel filler pipe has got a hole at the neck of the filler (rusted through) so stuff could have got into the fuel system but fuel filter has collected no water yet.
any ideas of problem would be great.
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Ultimate Performance |
22 |
1st August 2010 - 06:10 AM Last post by: Ultimate Performance |
Can anybody help me? I found a computer box in my '96 SWB 2,8t Pajero next to passenger footwell. As far as I know the 4M40T is a mechanical fuel pump and not contolled electronically. What is it for? One plug into the ECU. Please help me?
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tentoholics |
56 |
30th July 2010 - 11:06 PM Last post by: Nur Othman |
Hi guys can anyone help me please.
I have a challenger 1999, 3.0l, v6, petrol, manual.
I am trying to sort a problem out that i think is related to the handbrake.
as i trace the brake pipes back to the rear of the car (for the handbrake), they go into a device attached to the rear diff, then the travel into a device that looks like a cylinder, that attaches to the rear axel by a spring. this is the device that i am wondering what its purpose is.
there is ne refference to it in the haynes manual.
sorry to be a bit thick with the description.
kind regards
steve
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sheep1315 |
68 |
30th July 2010 - 06:28 AM Last post by: mmna |
i have a 1998 pajero io (h66w) and while driving i lost all throttle response, i pulled off the road and noticed the engine check like was blinking and the revs built up to over 2000, i had to get it towed home as the throttle gave no response, the next morning when i went to check it out it was working fine but after a few miles the same thing happened again, does anyone have any idea of what the problem may be
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langmusi |
59 |
27th July 2010 - 08:38 AM Last post by: langmusi |
anyone used amsoil for montero sport? or is the original better?
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armando |
40 |
26th July 2010 - 04:30 PM Last post by: armando |
IM FROM NEW JERSEY.....N IM GOIN CRAZY LOOKING FOR A WAY TO GET MY HANDS ON MITSUBISHI CHALLENGER CORNER LIGHTS......I CANT FIND THEM NO WERE IN THE US CAN SUM1 PLEASE TELL ME HOW I CAN GET A HOLD OF THEM.......ANY INFO ON THIS PLEASE LET ME NO
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5
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island challenger |
93 |
26th July 2010 - 06:20 AM Last post by: Neil D |
My 1997 3.5 GDI challenger, its got the 6g74 engine. recently it shutters when the rpm reaches 3000. driving under 3000 rpm is fine though.
also it doesnt start up until the 4th turning over of the engine, regardless of temp its at.
can anyone give me some idea of what could be causing this problem?
thanks
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shirell |
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21st July 2010 - 10:30 AM Last post by: shirell |
Help, My wife called the other day saying that the ABS, SRS, Traction control on and off lights and the orange center diff light is on. The vehicle is in a limp mode where is seems like it starts out maybe in 2nd gear and doesn't shift out of it. The codes stored is P1751. I had an electrical test done and the charging system is fine. Any suggestions before it goes to Mitsubishi?
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tentoholics |
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19th July 2010 - 06:23 AM Last post by: tentoholics |
Hi guys.
I have had a problem with my challenger for about 6 weeks now.
Today someone told me the diff may be wound up. So i jacked all 4 wheels off the floor, selected 4h, put in 1st gear, started the car and left it to run.
The back wheels were moving evenly, but the front off side was moving quicker than the other 3 wheels, and the front nearside was revolving very slow. almost stopped.
After 15 mins the wheels were spinning all the same. so i thought problem solved.
I put the car in 4h and drove it off the drive, locked it around to get off the drive on to the road, and problem still there. car would not move at all.
any ideas?
kind regards
steve
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stanserv |
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19th July 2010 - 04:31 AM Last post by: stanserv |
Found that the power transister (ignition module) was bad. Replaced it. Truck will start now but missing on 3 & 6. Replaced 3-6 coil. Still missing. Power transister is getting hot after just a few minutes of running at idle. Anyone have any suggestions? All replies are grately appreiciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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mtc137 |
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18th July 2010 - 11:57 PM Last post by: mtc137 |
The summer heat brings out the worst in my truck. I'm fairly certain the water pump is shot on my 03 LTD. It's making a knocking noise like a bad bearing and the timing belt has an aluminum like sheen on the inside (tooth side) of the belt, it looks wet and I am hearing a squeaking at idle. I can't get at it the belt yet because I'm having trouble getting the fan pulley off and the crank pulley off (which, is actually loose!), but I was able to move the upper cover enough to see the belt.
It has 120k miles now and the pump has never been done. I have to replace it along with the timing belt again.
Is there anyone here who has these special tools (ie. Tension pulley socket
wrench, Crankshaft pulley spacer, pins for the crank pulley) necessary that would be willing to loan them?
I can't afford to pay the dealer to have this done, so I'm going to try tackling this on my own. I'd very much appreciate anyone's help.
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wesley |
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16th July 2010 - 03:34 PM Last post by: wesley |
hi i have just replaced my timing chain and now i have noticed i have a small oil leek from the head gasket ,if i renew the head gasket does the head need skimmed and will i have to retigten the head gasket after i have run the jeep for a while thankyou
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hicham |
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15th July 2010 - 02:29 PM Last post by: hicham |
Hi All,
I am searching for how to program door locking after move in Mistubishi PAJERO Sport 2010, known also with montero, Challenger ,nativa and Pajero DAKAR.
Any help Please.
also if someone have service manual for this SUV, I appreciate.
Regards,
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4wd83 |
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15th July 2010 - 01:10 AM Last post by: 4wd83 |
Hello,
I have recently purchased a 2001 Pajero IO, with the 1.8L (4G93 engine I believe). I went for the 1.8L over the 2.0L because this particular example looked to be in absolute mint condition.
I'm now wondering if there are ways to increase the power and/or fuel efficiency of the car, for example through extractors or a better air filter? I have heard that they have some Lancer parts, so wondered if that could make any performance mods easier. I'm not looking to turn it into a sports car, but any performance increase would be most welcome, as would any in fuel efficiency (currently getting around 10L/100km in mixed driving - right on the quoted figures, but improvements couldn't hurt!)
I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, but would gladly talk to the mechanic about any improvements that could be made.
I apologise if this topic has been covered before - I had a good search and couldn't see anything similar here.
Lastly, can anybody tell me what size speakers fit in the front and rear grills? It looks to me that 6 inch would be about the maximum but I wasn't quite sure.
Thanks very much in advance for your time guys

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Kariba |
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14th July 2010 - 06:57 PM Last post by: Luisfer.ad |
I have a 2001 Pajero IO GDI and was hoping to overhaul my engine since its nearly 10yrs old and has over 120,000KM on it. I have part numbers but unfortunately cannot find a dealership in my location. Below are vehicle details and part numbers:
CHASSIS #: H77W-5204197
MODEL #: GH-H77W LRXC 5
ENGINE #: 4G94 EXT: A69F
MD365937 - GASKET,CYLINDER HEAD
MD184303 - SEAL,VALVE STEM (INTAKE and EXHAUST), RUBBER, 5.2
MD371157 (replaced old part #MD371189) - RING SET,PISTON
I also need part numbers for the Main & Rod Bearings, Thrust Washers, Brake Rotors and Brake Pads. Along with the part numbers I NEED an authorized vendor who can provide me with the prices for genuine Mitsubishi parts listed.
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kevinmccon |
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14th July 2010 - 01:51 AM Last post by: SRSONE |
When I bought the vehicle recently I was advised that the horn button was not working and has been replaced by a small button in front of the driver's knee. The local Mitsubishi agent has quoted F$3881 (about US$2000) as cost of the air bag module, supposedly required to fix the horn. Can anyone confirm that this expense is the only way to fix this problem, or give advice on what else can be done.
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Eddieh |
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13th July 2010 - 02:58 PM Last post by: Eddieh |
Hi all,
I'm hoping you could help with a problem i'm having with my 97 Challenger V6 Auto.
Whilst coasting, the A/T light starts flashing and sometimes the gearbox light comes on as well, as soon as I touch the accelerator even very lightly and briefly they dissapear but then come back on within a few seconds.
Other than the lights the car drives fine, anybody had this happen to them before or are able to shed any light on what is wrong.
Thanks
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mart |
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13th July 2010 - 08:45 AM Last post by: man_elite |
Hi all
i am just about to buy a 1998 Challenger 3.5GDI square wheel acrhed version. can anyone tell me engine spec please. BHP etc
this is a Jap inport version.
Regards, Mart
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hicham |
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13th July 2010 - 07:21 AM Last post by: hicham |
hello to everyone if you like I want you asked about how to enable automatic locking doors, rolling on mitsubishi pajero sport (Challenger,Montero Sport) 2010
Thank you in advance

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tentoholics |
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12th July 2010 - 04:15 PM Last post by: KiT TeUnG 2549 |
Hi guys.
I have a problem that not even mitsubishi can answer. here goes.
the clutch was slipping on my 1999 challenger 3l v6 manual petrol. But only when towing a caravan.
I took the car in to the garage where they replaced the clutch, spigot bearing and the master cylinder.
The car ran great for 3 weeks, then the problems really started.
I was driving the car in 2 wheel, when after 6 miles i heard a noise that i can only describe as "a back break rubbing". Over the next few yards the noise got progressivly worse and continuous. them the car whinened an came to a hault, as though the handbrake had been applied.
I stopped the engine and got out to take a look where i could not see anything obvious. Jumped back in the car started the engine and away we went.
A mile down the road it happenend again. I selected 4 wheel drive and managed to drive home 6 miles with no problems.
this keeps happening intermittantly, but never when the garage take it for a test drive. typical.
any ideas. All the fluid levels are correct throughout the diffs and transfer box. (so the garage tell me)
There was fluid loss underneath after the clutch had been replaced. but the garage have since replaced the gear box mounting and the seal.
kind regards
steve
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minter231 |
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12th July 2010 - 08:28 AM Last post by: minter231 |
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fuddster |
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10th July 2010 - 03:07 PM Last post by: EMC 3000gt |
Anybody installed one of these "Performance Chips" in their Monty ?
The PCD Performance Chip increases the horsepower of any engine by communicating with the ECU with an altered signal that is sent from your IAT. This sensor plays a part in determining the fuel maps your ECU outlines for your engine. Your OEM sensors send signals to your Computer that translate those readings into adjustments to timing, fuel distribution and sparking efficiency. Our PCD Chip piggybacks that signal, altering what the ECU receives, thus fully optimizing your air / fuel settings to give you additional horsepower when you accelerate. The altered fuel maps are consistent throughout the RPM range, giving you increased torque at low RPMs and higher horsepower numbers in the upper RPM range
http://www.performancechipsdirect.com/howitworks.htmlIf this chip works I sure could use extra ponys going up the Cali Grapevine

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