Hi,
I have a 85 L300 4WD and a 91 SH L300 van. I understand that these two engines are bolt up exchangable to belhousing and have same cluth.
Can anyone tell me if the later WA, Starwagon and L300 2.4i (97kw) shares the same clutch and belhousing.
My 85 could use an increase in torque and the 2.4I would probably be just the ticket.
Thanks, Al

Hi there Comper100. Thank you so much for the wiring diagram. Although 3 of the wires were different in color codes from the actual control unit I have, I managed to figure it out. This worked out really well. Thank you very much for your help.

DBE

Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum. I have a 4D56 diesel engine from a 1992 Mitsubishi L300 2WD Van. I'm looking for a wiring diagram or any information that illustrates how to wire connect the corresponding glow control unit K8T75071 to this 4D56 engine. The glow plug control unit connector is a 9 pin socket and has 8 wires connected to the pins (one pin is empty). I need to know which wire(s) of this timing control unit connects to what i.e which wire(s) to the coolant temperature sensor, the fuel cut solenoid valve, glow plug relay, altenator charging L wire, preheat indicator lamp ect ect. The connector socket wire colors are as follows;
1 3 X 6 8
2 4 5 7 9

Pin to Wire colors
PIN 1 = black-white
PIN 2 = green-black
PIN 3 = empty
PIN 4 = black-yellow
PIN 5 = black
PIN 6 = brown
PIN 7 = brown-white
PIN 8 = yellow
PIN 9 = yellow-green

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much in advance.

hey all i Am the prowd owner of a good old l300 4x4 and i have decided the motor is on its last legs i was going to put a astron 2.6 into it but then i found this http://www.v6conversions.com.au/MITSUBISHI%20L300%204X4.htm it is a mounting kit for a holden commadore v6 3.8l motor and ecu...ect i already picked up a vn commadore engine +loom and ecu.....ect whats the best way to start this my first problem is how to get the old motor out hard to work in the cramped conditions in the van and hints would be very handy

Hey im chasing a lsd centre for my 2000 L300 2wd van. After searching for hours i have had several conflicting answers. Will any model pajero or delica fit in my diff housing and have the same axle spline count?? Any help would be apreciated.

Hi, anyone know whats involved in swapping a 4g63 sohc 16v carby fed motor for a 4g63 dohc injected motor???
the original engines are as rare as rocking horse s..t! and there are heaps of the dohc ones out there.
Thanks

how much oil does a 1993 2.4 ltr starwagon take at a oil change with new filter
only had it 3 months

My L300 has just spat the timing belt and the motor is now more or less toast!

This van is located in Western Australia(Southern suburbs)

I had started to do some work to the van but had to stop as I needed it as a temporary work hack. The interior was being re-done(only just started) and a bed/huge stereo was on it's way in. It has 17" territory steelies with 225 and 245 low profile tyres.

The stereo is coming out but otherwise the van would be sold as is. It's FAIRLY good for an ex tradie but I'm not going to say it's in great condition(many small dents etc and some small bits of rust around windows etc. Also passenger window is a bit sticky(needs help getting back up)

Offers in th realm of $300-$500 would be good, it is a pretty good van otherwise soif you had the engine re-building stuff or a spare 2.0 block, it would be a good van. I can leave the bed/sub enclosure in there but subs etc would be removed(the bed/sub box is built in) this can all be ripped out if need be. The mattress is NEW(good quality trimmed 100mm foam) and has been slept on once(with a sheet and it was just sleeping for maybe 4 hours!)

The rims alone are probably worth $250 and the mattress is $120 also.

The door trims have been spiffed up and the rear tailgate panel has been re-trimmed also with 6x9" speaker locations/sound deadener. The front doors have two 6" speaker locations per door(yep it was a fair sized sound system!) and are re-trimmed in black fuzzy carpet type material and vinyl(both proper automotive trim) The rear tailgate also has 2 downlights:)

I can email pics etc of what I have. I just don't have the facilities or cash to put into this for the forseeable future. It is also as of next week out of rego Oh and the marks on the door are left over adhesive from the old signwriting(easily removed)

I have a 1991 mitsubishi delica with 4 speed automatic transmission and 2.5 turbo diesel engine

It would seem said transmission is designed for a petrol engine. It waits far too long to upshift, and the engine will be struggling along hundreds of RPMs above it's power band. Also when on the open road, an accelerator kick down will also cause the transmission to downshift and the engine to leap out of it's power band...

I took the van to an automatic transmission specialist, who said it just wasn't terribly well suited to the engine, but servicing wouldn't help

So I disconnected the throttle cable from the transmission. Now it runs much better. Seems to be more torque converter than gearbox though (tachometer wierdness, needles going in opposite directions etc.)

Will this excessively wear the transmission?

Hi all

Was servicing the van the other day when i noticed the coolant was low and there was a milky residue on the oil cap!!

My immediate thoughts where that i have either a crack in the head or a corroded water way leaking in to the oil. There's no overheating, smoke or oil in the rad or anything.

Anyhow on quick inspection i saw that the rad cap was leaking coolant so that should be the reason for the coolant loss. I also noticed that the PCV valve was blocked too and the plunger was sludged up inside. So i cleaned this and put it back on hoping that the cam cover could not breathe the vapours away helping the condensation form.

Anyone else had a similar problem, interested to hear...

4G64 EFI btw .....

Hi all, my first question on the forum: I have a '95 L300 2.5D with new tyres (standard wheels) and am changing to a '98 L400 2.5 turbo diesel. Will the L300 wheels swap straight onto the L400?

Thanks

odd one - started happening today ... nothing different, just decided to stop playing nicely!

Although I have recently rebuilt the engine, I don't think this is at all related as it did something kinda simlar beforehand .. although nowhere near as bad as it is at the moment

in a nutshell, whenever the engine revs past 2000 rpm it splutters and jerks quite badly - it's as if I have completely removed my foot from the accelerator/ If I put my foot down, there's nothing at all ... it's as if the ignition is off. However ... it doesn't die, it will idle quite happily.
It's not an ignition problem as the rev counter stays active.
It may be a full cut of some type, but I haven't got a scope onto the injectors yet so I don't know.
If I keep the revs below 2000, it's fine.
It also only seems to do it when the motor has warmed up - for a couple of minutes after starting it cold, it's happy. Soon as the gauge starts to move though it starts playing up again.
It does it in every gear as well as in neutral.
If I floor it, it will cut out well past 2000 and coast back down - if I put the pedal down whilst it's coasting there's no response.

odd.

I know it's a long shot ... but ... any ideas?

cheers,
slapper

Hi there, i've recently come into possession of a 1989 4wd L300 sportpac. I was wondering how/if you can tell whether it has a LSD in the rear?
I have read on several places that you jack up both wheels and spin one, if the other rotates in the same direction it is an LSD, if it rotates oppositely it is not. - Now performing this test, both back wheels rotate together in the same direction(with the car in neutral). However, if i put it in first - so the drive shaft is fixed/doesn't move, and re-perform the test, the wheels counter rotate. It is also possible to turn one wheel while the other is grounded (in neutral), but it takes a bit of effort...
Can anyone clarify what this means?

Hey all,

My van is pretty damn uneconomical.. and I'm trying to figure out if its meant to be as bad as it is. I doubt it a bit.. It seems im averaging around 230-260kms a tank around the city. Seems waaaayy worse than it should be.

2L 1990 L400 4wd.

What do you guys get on a tank, both city and open road?

Cheers,

Caleb

Hi Folks
I'm new here but have a 1991 MWB express van (petrol/manual/no A/C) that has developed a problem since I've installed a CD player - not sure if that has any bearing on the problem though. The park lights/tail lights, dash lights and horn are all on F3 which blows as soon as I turn the lights on. The horn works OK though if I replace the fuse and don't use the lights. I've removed all the bulbs front and rear and that doesn't make any difference, there is a solid earth on the supply side of F3 when I turn the lights on which shouldn't be there - hence blows the fuse immediately. I have a Gregory's but the wiring diagram in it sucks - has no good information and the colour codes don't match to what I have. Does anyone have a decent wiring diagram for this van or any idea where the main wiring harness plugs are so I can isolate sections of the lighting circuit to try and find the short. Also, would replacing the factory radio unit with a cheapo CD have any impact on the lighting circuit - I couldn't see anything common - only used 12V, 12V switched, earth and the two front speaker wires which I had to common to get them to work?

thanks

Any one know where I can get a Mikuni Carby for my 1985 L3300 star wagon. Or is there an alternative carby I could use.
Thanks to all who help
Desperate. Tuck The cost of fuel is killing me

Hi guys i got a 98 model L400 and just wondering on the stud pattern and offset for the rims as i want to put some 18s or 20s on it. eg wat cars would have the same stud pattern and offset. any help would be great. cheers guys

Hey all,

My wife is looking to buy a starwagon between 1993 - 2000ish model. She has her eye on a particular 1998 WA GL 2 litre auto model, but we are looking at any of the new shape ones.

So I have a few questions, as a her personal mechanical tradesperson (work on planes, not cars).

How many Km's can we expect to get out of an engine and gearbox?

How difficult are engine/box changes?

How expensive are engine/box changes?

How reliable are these cars?

What is the fuel economy like?

What sort of problems are common with these cars and how easy to fix the problems?

Any other things I should look for when buying a starwagon?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make sure that my wife gets a good buy and doesn't get stranded with 4 kids somewhere on the side of the road.
Any advice you can give will be very much appreciated.

Hi guys,i have changed my trannies tail seal for three (yes 3) times and replaced the tailshaft once to no avail. cause my trannie still leaks oil from the tail housing,just cant stop it .Any ideas.Thanks in adv.

Need help setting the timing on a 99 Mitsubishi Starwagon WA

Any pics or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jason

Gidday,

I have an 89 L300 with 260,000 on the clock.
The motor is tired with a decent amount of smoke from the exhaust, more fuming from the oil cap than I like and it's started pinging under any sort of load. After the usual checks/fixes I've concluded that the engine is just tired and needs work.

I have two choices:
1) recondition the existing motor
2) replace it

I could pull the head and get it reconditioned, replace the rings and stuff it all together with a fresh set of gaskets but I don't know enough about the Mitsubishi engines to know whether this is the right path to go down. If I go down this path, should I do the crank bearings too? What else?

Or ... I could find a low km Japanese import and do a weekend swap over. This is what I did when my Toyotas got tired! Fairly straight forward solution, less buggerising around (in my opinion) and more likely to get done in a reasonable amount of time!

Before I jump one way or the other, I'd like to price up both options. So, anyone got any recommendations on where to go for an import motor in Adelaide?

Are there differences between the 4G64 8 valve engines model to model, or will any 8 valve fit (that's what's in the bus now) ?
Can anyone tell me whether a 16 valve will fit? I'm worried about transmission attachments and ancillary (alternator, starter motor etc) positioning.

Any other options I may not have considered?

cheers,
slapper

Hi guys,

how interchangable are parts from early and late model L300's?
I'm assuming there would be changes to mechanical items but what about exterior/interior items?
For example, would an early model seat fit in a later model?

Hi guys,

for those of you that are pimping your vehicles, where are you sourcing your aftermarket parts from?

can any one help me with the weight specs etc for a 4x4 L300?
i want to do a conversion to an electric motor and i need to know how much weight i can cut out so i can replace it with batteries etc.

i need to know how much it weighs - how much can it carry and tow and all the dimensions etc..

any help would be much appreciated!

I am new and i've done all the possible searches i can think of and found nothing on this one so forgive me if it has been covered.

I have just bought an L300 1991 with a dual fuel conversion done on it.It runs nicely on LPG with one strange problem.....on idle it ticks away nicely untill you turn something on like the heater fan , radio or put it in reverse(light comming on i guess) and stalls.... you can hear the cutoff soleinoid in action just before it stalls.So i am guessing its a voltage drop.
I have changed the balist resistor and the 80A fuseable link as they looked dodgey.Also put a new set of plugs in,oil change the usual....

On petrol it runs ok but i think the fuel in the tank may be stale .Will put some preimium in when i've used this lot up....

Anyone had a simalar problem???
Thanks in advance.
Stribo

Hi need help with the timing , what should it be set for on lpg on petrol it is + or _ 2 deg btdc but what should it be set on for gas? also i have problem with it on petrol it just wont run real good , it wont rev up lacking air , found this out by removing the mixer on top of the carby ive tried 2 other mixer and still have the same problem its cutting the air flow has any one else had this problem? i would guess so because when looking for other lpg mixers at the wreckers all had been modifide holes drilled , bored out etc Ive even thought about makin g up a gadget so i could adjust the dissy insidethe cab so ive got a gas and petrol setting. i can make it run ok but the not the best by changing the timing.

Please any help would greatful as even sprintgas the suppliers of the gas system have told me oh its just how it is just drive on gas. well then they shouldnt sell a dual full system thats doesnt run on both fuels

Hi my central locking is not working, when the sliding door is closed the lock is really stiff, it can't be locked with the key. When the door is open it moves freely. When the lock button is pressed you can hear a click in the side door. This problem is also causing my battery to discharge when it is sitting. Can anyone help with ideas please?

I have a l300 90 model which needs a carby rebuild, has anyone fitted a holley performance carb to there van?

G'day
hope you can shed some light on my problem
i have a 1984 L300 Express Van, 4WD 2.0L .............
with no service manual. i have searched high and low for one with no luck, anyway i need to know the correct plug gap and timing.

thanks in advance, Gus.

In the 12 years I had a 1984 1.8L L300 4WD I twice had gearbox trouble caused by driving too slowly in fifth gear, so I was told by mechanics. I don't know the details, I think it was a large nut on the main shaft would come loose by the vibration/load etc. of the lower speed because of a design flaw/limitation. When the problem happened various gears would be lost temporily. For a while it was only fifth gear missing then it came good for a few months before it got even worse. The other time I suddenly lost all gears except first. I typically drove at 90km+ in fifth gear and didn't lug the engine, but according to one mechanic that isn't fast enough.
I haven't been able to learn much about this topic, and some of what I've heard has been contradictory, so would welcome any thoughts.
(I currently have a 1993 2.4L Express 4WD which I assume has the same gearbox.)

Hello All.
I am looking at fitting a bench seat in the rear of my 1998 MWB Express.
Does anyone know if the seats from a Starwagon from the same body shape will bolt in ? If not are there any other seats that will fit with minimal modifications.
Thanks for any help

my express only gives me about 280km on a full tank, so im abit squirmish about moving to 15" interceptors, you reckon fule economy will increase?

how much you reckon by? thanks.

bored....with 14"

Hi. I'm doing up my Mitsubishi 1993 model L300 van for my motocross bike, and I recently put a pod filter on it. When I rev the motor the rocker cover breather hose makes a loud noise. Sounds kindda like an exhaust.

Anyway, to install the pod filter I just ripped the lid off the air filter housing and put the hose straight onto the filter, and i removed the old standard filter so my pod filter just rests inside the housing and the breather hose is just next to it. If I cover the breather hose over a bit then it doesn't make the noise, but otherwise it does.

Do I need to worry about that or nahh? Is it ok just to leave it?

Thanks

Here's some pics of the work in progress of my van anyway:

g day
I have a 1996 l400 wa starwagon is the engine removed from below, or through the bonet.
if from below what is best way to approach the task
rgds
mr wobbles

G'day,
I've got a '95 WA L400 that has a few (400k) k's on the clock and its starting to become difficult to engage 1st and sometimes 2nd gear once stopped. I assume the syncros are on the way out as I have had an engine reco and new clutch about 6 months ago.
I was also told recently that the clutch being hydraulic doesn't need to be adjusted, is this true?
The engine is a 4G64 injected and it takes off on the flat and downhill quite comfortably in 2nd gear.
Anyway, would it be cheaper to get the box reco'd (will mean a fair bit of time off the road?) or take the punt on a 2nd hand box? What are the options so far as other gearboxes that will bolt straight in without an adapter plate?
Are there any aftermarket (or other model) options that would allow me to reduce the differential ratio to give the 'flyin' pill' a lower cruising speed rev range (100-110kph) as it revs at around 3500 at present. As I have improved the overall performance and economy by about 20 - 30% (extractors, full flow intake, overbore on reco engine, hotter plugs and advanced the timing) I'm sure that she could handle it.
Thanks
Besty

Hi All,
I have been chasing a 'bad first start-up' for some time...
I have had partial success thru plugs. leads and dissy cap..

But the problem of winding over many times befor firing first thing remains.

The 'choke' just seems to be a reversable motor that pushes a plunger raising the idle. without this the idle is very low, untill the motor warms some.

I would have thought there would be an enrichment directive from the computer to the injectors...

my investigation at this point is: does such enrichment exist, what signals or drivers does the comuter recieve to enrich the mixture.

As mentioned, when I disconect the reversable motor, it is as if I have NO choke at all, surely this is not the only way to compensate foe a cold start, to raise the idle... that would be quite unsophisticated...

I suspect the temp sensor would be involved and maybe the TPS, not the O2 sensor which I understand to be inactive till warm.

If u have information or know were I can get some, please chime in...

also the plastic worm drive on my reversable choke motor is worn away, is this replacable does any one know... ( i'll ring spares anyway)

does anyone know of a forum that is active that I can link up with.

I think my module is on the blink...
poor starting and missing at revs
but were is it...

Hi all,
My Starwagon 2.4 petrol does not like to start first thing in the morning.

It winds over about 15 - 20 times then fires up normaly...

After that, it starts first pop all day, and runs great.

I have new plugs and leads and dissy cap... all new.

I have petrol in the fuel rail, and pump has no delay... pumps heaps.

The timing is 10degree BTC.

The motor has a reco head about one year ago, plenty of compression

This is a mystery...

Any Tech heads or advisors, all input welcome...

Thanks guys.

Hi all,
What is the big plastic ring aaround the air filter for???

I removed it, but nothing seemed to change...

It seems like a big restriction to me, but they must have it there for some reason...

I wonder if anyone can assist me. I have a 1996 Express MWB van with a 2.4 fuel injected petrol motor and manual transmission. I think the motor model is 4G64 S4. The handbook says (re the engine) "not designed to be run on LPG". However, the local LPG conversion workshop says it is suitable for conversion and of course they say they have done dozens with no problems at all. Can anyone offer any information that may clarify the position. Thanks

Hey guys, we're gonna do some country driving and the missus doesn't like the look of spotties etc(happy wife, happy life )is it safe to use 100/55 watt h4 globes in the semi sealed lights in the express? Will the wiring be sufficient or do I need to install a separate relay(much like for a set of spotties?) I have used 100 watters in other cars with no issues. It is a 1998 express with the single lenses.

Cheers!

Hi all,

the driver side door on my '95 express does not shut properly. As far as I can tell the body work is straight as and no evidence of a ding anywhere. Is the door likely to drop over time? Everything seems pretty tight. Can the door seals be a factor?

Another question from me!

My '95 Express van has started running-on after I switch off the engine. What should I do to rectify this?

Is it just a case of adjusting the timing or is there more to it than that?

Hi militaryman and co,


Thanks for this forum.

I'm investigating engine upgrades for a 1.8 litre 86 L300 4WD.

Vehicle has 150 000 orginal kms and the donk is in good nick.

Planning on modifying and keeping the vehicle long term.

2.6 Petrol Mitsubishi is the obvious choice. V6 Commodore could be expensive yet affordable.

Deisel is my preference.

Anyone have any experience fitting a 4D56? Or 4D56t?

Are any other deisels suitable? (Preferably Mitsubishi)

My idea of an engine swap is anything without extensive use of grinders and welders.

Custom mech work is OK. (Expecting mods to fuel tank, lines, exhaust, breathers, etc.)

Any suggestions most appreciated.


L300300.

Hi all, new to the site and to mitsubishi's just got a 88" Starwagon van as a daily driver nothing special here a couple of pic's.......

1st week-end i had it 4x4 in neerim



Got a bit stuck.....lol



wheels / system



new wheels 17", moto stickers, lowwered 2.5"



new wheels 17", moto stickers, lowwered 2.5", clear tail lights.




Going to get the windows tinted in a few week aslo looking at doin sumthing to the motor either V8 or turbo ANY IDEAS ??

Thanks,
Ben

Hi all

I have a 92 Starwagon GLX and have just had LPG fitted, only thing now is the spare has to go in the back, that would be ok but i wan't to go camping etc and would rather it be somewhere else.

I was thinking of mounting it on the bull bar at the front, has anyone got any ideas on where to mount it and if there is a kit you can get to put it on the bullbar, i could make something i suppose, are there any downsides for having it on the front??

Thanks

I've looked and looked and all I can find are sites in the UK and Australia. Does anyone know of a DIY kit you can buy in the US?

Or has anyone done this themselves and would like to share with us their basic plans and what you might change if anything. All I'm really looking for is a good way to lift the bed above the wheel wells so that I can fit two people comfortably, and maybe fold it away to a bench when its not being used. Is that too much to ask?

Thanks in advance for the help

just thought id post up a pic of my van as i havnt done for a while. i just colour coded the bumpers... did a pretty good job i recon. ive installed a stereo i will get a pic on the weekend. ive lowered it 2 inches

i am very keen to do some engine mods to the van. its running dual fuel? i wanted to put a turbo on it in the near future. i was thinking of running it on straight gas with a turbo as i see GasResearch are doing some pretty cool stuff with gas and turbos. the van has done 200k and is auto. doesnt use any oil. i will be rebuilding the engine if i was to turbo it.

just wanted to know wat yby thought as u have turboed ur l300? my van is carby also. if i was to go turbo on petrol would i need the ecu and injector kits etc. if i was could i order them through ur work?

thanks for the input.. just wanted some ideas before i go all out...

[attachmentid=7310]

Hi All,
I have a 1992 L300 MB 4X4 Diesel, And i think the timing has jumped the engine sounds like it has diesel knock. I need a picture of the timing marks if anyone has them as i can not seem to find the diesel pump marks.
Regards,
Keith.